An authentic narrative of the loss of the American brig Commerce, wrecked on the western coast of Africa, in the month of August, 1815, with an account of the sufferings of the surviving officers and crew, who were enslaved by the wandering Arabs, on the African desart, or Zahahrah; and observations historical, geographical, &c. made during the travels of the author, while a slave to the Arabs, and in the empire of Morocco

Front matter

A

AN

AUTHENTIC NARRATIVE

Chap. VII

Sufferings of the crew, and manner of climbing over the rocks along the seashore, under high cliffs — reaching the surface of the desart— meeting with a company of wandering Arabs, by whom they are seized as slaves, and stripped naked, ....... gf

Chap. VIII

The author and his crew are carried on camels into the interior of the Desart of Zahahrah — the Arabs hold a council — the crew are sold and distributed — the author's remarkable dream — the skin and flesh are literally roasted off from his body, and from the bones of his companions — their dreadful sufferings while naked and wandering about the Desart with their masters, subsisting only on a little camels' milk — two Arab traders arrive, ------- 4?

Continuation of the journey on the Desart — several singular occurrences—they come within sight oT the ocean, - - - 82

Chap. XIV

They travel along the sea-coast under the high banks — fall in with and join a company of Arabs — travel in the night for fear of robbers— Mr. Savage faints — is near being massacred, and is rescued by the author, 89

Chap. XV

Black mountains appear in the east — they come to a river of salt water, and to wells of fresh water, where they find many horses— description of a singular plant — come to cultivated land ; to a fresh water river, and a few scone huts, - - - 93

Chap. XVI

The company is divided — they set off to the eastward — their masters are attacked by a band of robbers, .... 99

CHAP : XVII.

Some fresh fish are procured — they pa. c s several small walled villages, and meet with robbers on horseback, - - - 101

A Moor arrives from Mogadore, bringing a letter — the letter — they set out for that city, - - - - - - -115

Chap. XXI

They come near the ruins of a city where two battering machines are standing— description of them— story of its destruction — they cross a river, and a fruitful country — lodge in a city, and are afterwards stopped by Sheick Ali and the prince of another city, - - - 120

Chap. XXII

Rais bel Cossim gains the friendship of the prince— good provisions are procured — Sheick Ali's plans miscarry— they set off for, and arrive at Santa Cruz, in the empire of Morocco, - ... ISO

CONTENTS. IX

Chap. XXIII

Page Sheick AH out-manoeuvred again by Rais bel Cossim— they set off in the ni«-ht— meet with Sidi Hamet and his brother, accompanied by some Moors with mules sent by Mr. Willshire for the sufferers to ride on— occurrences on the road— meeting with Mr. Willshire near Swearah or Mogadore— they go into that city— are ordered before the Bashaw, 14C

Chap. XXIV

The author and his companions are cleansed, clothed, and fed— he becomes delirious, but is again restored to reason— the kindness of Mr Willshire— letter from "Ho ratio Sprague, Esq. of Gibraltar— author's reflectio is on his past sufferings, and on the providential chain of events that lud fitted him for enduring them, and miraculously supported and restored him and his four companions to their liberty, 153

Chap. XXV

The author's motives for requesting of, and writing down, his former master's narrative of Travels on the Desart when in Mogadore, together with Sidi Hamet's narrative of a journey across the great Desart to Tombuctoo, and back again to Widnoon, with a caravan, 15

Section I. Sidi Hamet's narrative of a journey from Widnoon across the great Desart to Tombuctoo, and back again to Widnoon, - - 16€

Section II. Sidi Hamet sets out on another journey for Tombuctoo — the caravan is mostly destroyed for want of water, by drifting sand, and by mutiny, &c. — the few that escape get to the south of the Desart, - 163

Section III. Sidi Hamet's journeyings. His arrival on the banks of the river called by the natives Gozen-Zair, and at Tombuctoo— description of that city — its commerce, wealth, and inhabitants, - - 165

Section IV. Sidi Hamet sets out for Wassanah— his arrival there, and description of that city, the country, and its inhabitants— of the great river which runs near it, and of his return to Tombuctoo — containing also the author's geographical opinions, founded on the narrative, on the sources of the river Niger — its length and outlet into the Atlantic ocean, -------- 169

Section V. Sidi Hamet's journey from Tombuctoo to Morocco by the eastern route— his description of the Desart, and of the country on both sides of it — of a dreadful battle with the wandering Arabs — Sidi Hamet takes his leave and sets out to join his family, - - - 174

Chap. XXVI

An account of the face of the great African Desart, or Zahahrah— of its inhabitants, their customs, manners, dress, &c. — a description of the Arabian camel or dromedary, ----- 1*78

Chap. XXVII

Some account of Suse, or South Barbary, and of its inhabitants, cities, &c. — the primitive plough, and mode of using it— primitive churn, and method of making butter, - - - - - 19 ,

Chap. XXVIII

Some account Of an insurrection in Morocco — the Bashaw of Swearah is seized and put in irons — change of Governors — the Jews are forced to pay their trib'ite or turn Mohammedans — their treatment by the Moors — a .lew burial — a circumcision — a Jewish priest arrives from Jerusalem — the author obtains from him some account of the present Jerusalem . and its inhabitants, and of the method pursued by the priests lor getting

X CONTENTS.

Pagi money from the Jews in Europe and Barbary — a Moorish execution and maiming — of the Jews in West Barbary, - 197

. CHAP. XXIX.

New orders arrive from the Emperor — Mr. Willshire is grossly insulted by the Moors — a description of the city and port of Swearah, or Mogadore, its inhabitants, commerce, manufactures, &c. - - 208

Chap. XXX

Of the Moors and Moorish Arabs — feast of expiation— A Moorish review and sham-fight — horsemanship — of the Arabian horse and his furniture, ---------214

Chap. XXXII

The author ships his companions on board a vessel for Gibraltar, and sets out himself to travel by land for Tangier — villany of his Jew companion — account of a great Moorish saint— description of the country— of the towns— of El Ksebbah and Safiy, - 224

Chap. XXXIII

Continuation of the journey — description of Asbedre — of a flight of locusts — of the destroying locust of Africa — Mazagan — Azamore — Darlbeda— Fidallah— arrival at Rhabat— of Rhabat, - - 233

Chap. XXXIV

Description of a horrid show of two venemous serpents — sets out from Rhabat — of Sallee, Mamora, Laresch — Spanish missionaries — Moorish navy — arrival at Tangier, ------ 244

Chap. XXXV

Moorish captives— of Tangier and Christian Consuls— passage to Gib raltar,reception there — embarks for America — observations on Gibraltar — passage in the ship Rapid — arrival at New-York — visits his family —

foes to Washington city, the seat of government, and concludes with rief remarks on slavery, ------ 253

Appendix

Observations on the winds, currents, &c. in some parts of the Atlantic ocean, developing the causes of so many shipwrecks on the western coast of Africa — mode pointed out for visiting the famous city of Tombuctoo, on the river Niger, &c -«.-.- 268

CERTIFICATE.

Oaf tain James Riley has submitted his Narrative to my perusal, and I have read it over with great care and attention. I was his second mate on board the Commerce, and one of his unfortunate companions through, and a sharer in his dreadful sufferings and captivity, on the inhospitable shores and desarts of Africa, and 1 am astonished to find with what precision the whole of those incidents are related — it recalls to my memory all those dismal occurrences and distresses, and 1 do hereby certify, that the Narrative up to the time of our separation in Mogadore, contains nothing more than a plain statement of facts, and that myself, as well as others of the crew, owe our lives, liberties, and restoration to our country, under God, to his uncommon exertions, fortitude, intelligence, and perseverance, and I hereby request him, as my friend, to publish this my certificate.

AARON R. SAVAGE.

Done at New-York, this 1st day of\ February, A. D. 1817. >

LETTERS

New-York, 29th October, 1817.

Sir, — The Narrative of Capt. James Riley has excited uncommon interest; and as there are some persons, who, ignorant of his excellent character, doubt the general correctness of his story, and others who disbelieve the authenticity of particular parts, J have been urged by several respectable gentlemen, who, together with myself, repose the utmost confidence in your candour and veracity, and who nave been a long time acquainted with the respectability of your standing in society, to solicit from you a statement of your sufferings and idventures in a similar situation; and I am persuaded, that, indep-sn-

XU LETTERS.

dently of the gratification which it will afford, and the information which it will convey, there will be a sufficient inducement, when you understand that a compliance with this request may render essential service to a deserving fellow-citizen, and greatly promote the cause of truth.

I am, very respectfully, your most obedient servant,

DE WITT CLINTON.

Captain Judah Paddock.

Hudson, 25th November, 1817.

To De Witt Clinton, Esq. Governor of the State of New- York.

Esteemed Friend, — Thy favour of 29th ult. came to my hands a few days since, by a private conveyance. Its contents I notice. . It gave me great satisfaction to find Capt. Riley has such friends as the Governor of the State, as also many of its most respectable citizens, to aid and assist him in his great and worthy undertaking, so far as to give currency to it after diligent examination as to its facts. His Narrative of Shipwreck I have carefully perused the third time through, and am ready to say every part of that which came within my knowledge is correct, or substantially so. Were 1 to have told my story in my own way, we might have differed in some points, which would not have gone to discredit his assertions. 1 was wrecked on the same coast, and drank of the same bitter cup of affliction. All our sufferings were nearly of the same kind. Perhaps no one in our blessed land has it in his power to say so much in behalf of this injured man as I have ; therefore I should tax myself with ingratitude to be silent, more particularly when solicited by so many respectable personages that have written me to give an opinion of his work. I say, injured man, as doubting the authenticity of the work is an injury which he must feel sensibly, being to a great expense, without funds, and not likely to be very well remunerated for all his expenses and trouble. I have but little personal acquaintance with Capt. Riley ; from that little, and from what I learn from those who have long known him, I believe him to be a man of strict integrity, and worthy ©f public confidence. Thee solicits a statement of my sufferings in that inhospitable clime. 1 would most readily comply with that request, had I confidence in my own ability to do justice to the public in the exhibition of it. It is a long time since the occurrence took place. Having made at the time but few minutes of the important facts, the body of it must be from recollection. As Capt. Riley took his notes at thfe moment, and being better qualified for the task than myself, I dare not venture to write a book on the same ground; but I would permit him to affix some observations of mine to his work, as an Appen iix, could 1 think it so important for the public good as my friends have generally thought, since Riley's Narrative made its appearance.

.ETTERS. Xlil

Should thee wish further information from me, I hold myself ready to reply to any communication thee wishes to make. Thy friend,

JUDAH PADDOCK.

Esteemed Friend, — Recollecting the lively impressions which <fi verbal narrative of the sufferings and hardships experienced by thyself and Tew on the coast of Africa, produced on my feelings during a visit at Hudson last summer, and reflecting also on the information thy story embraced relative to the nature and state of the country, and of the customs and manners of the Arabs, 1 have wished sincerely that an account of those events, and the general results of observations made in Africa, drawn up by thyself from thy own notes, might be submitted to the public. The civilized world is now looking towards that country with increasing interest, and any genuine information can hardly fail to be favourably received. I can assure thee that a publication of thy Narrative would exceedingly gratify me, as well as a number of thy other friends in this city. 1 have been for some time well acquainted with Capt. Riley, and believe him to be a man of strict integrity, and fully deserving the confidence of the public; but as there are some in every community who are more or less incredulous, with respect to circumstances out of the road of common experience, a publication of the occurrences which befel thyself and crew on the same soil, and among the same people, would, from the well known respectability of thy character, add strength to the testimony of Capt. Kiley, and tend to the removal of doubts which some have entertained of the credibility of certain parts of his Narrative.

1 am, with great regard and esteem, thy affectionate friend,

THOMAS EDDY.

Hudson, 25th November, 1817.

Esteemed Friend Thomas Eddy,— Thy favour of 18th inst. was handed to me on the 22d, by a gentleman travelling northward : the contents noticed. On the subject of my shipwreck on the coast of Barbary, I do not think myself adequate to the task of writing a Narrative of it, to say, such a one as the public might anticipate after knowing I had commenced it. It is not a gift lam endowed with, taking into view my inability to do justice to the thing, and that Capt. KiJey, to whom, in my opinion, imnlicit confidence can be given

Xiv LETTERS.

relative to his Narrative, as far as has come within my Knowledge, (being both wrecked on the same coast, and our sufferings nearly the same,) and from what little opportunity I have had Math him personally, and the correspondence with him while writing his first edition, I think the public may rest assured full confidence may be given to his Narrative generally. Many parts could not be expected to have come within my notice, which of course I must be silent on. While he was writing that Narrative, which interested me very much, I cautioned him to be very circumspect on every point ; at the same time giving him to understand, if injustice was done the thing, he might expect some observations on it that might be disagreeable to him. His answers were prompt and gentlemanly. In the mean time, before the Narrative was made public, 1 took every opportunity to learn his character, and always found what I now believe him to be, a man oi veracity and strict integrity. If thee and others of my friends should think that what I could say more than Capt. Riley has said on the subject would be advantageous to the human race, I think I would endeavour to gratify those friends and the public, in a brief account of our shipwreck and sufferings, &c. to be attached as an Appendix to another edition of Capt. Riley's, should another be printed, which he may have gratuitously, if he will accept it ; but if the above will answer as a confirmation (as far as I know) of his Narrative, it will afford me the greater pleasure : otherwise, I will exert myself and tell the tale just as it transpired, according to the best of my ability, as painful as the task will be. Any communication from thee on this or on any other subject, shall be attended to, by

Thy real friend,

UDAH PADDOCK.

NARRATIVE, Ace.

Chapter I

A brief sketch of the Author's Life and Education, up to the month oj May, 1815.

1 was born in the town of Middletown, in the state of Connecticut, on the 27ih of October, in the year 1777, during the war between England and America, which terminated in 1783, with the acknowledgment by the mother country of the freedom, sovereignty, and independence of the thirteen United States. My father, Asher Riley, who still lives in the same place, was bred to the farming business, and at an early age married my mother, Rebecca Sage, who is also yet living. I was their fourth child. Owing to an attack of that dangerous disorder, the liver complaint, my father was rendered incapable of attending to his usual employment for several years, during which time, his property, small at first, was entirely expended ; but after his recovery, in 1786, he was enabled, by industry and strict economy, to support his increasing family in a decent manner.

It may not be improper here, before I speak of my education, to give a general idea of what was then termed a common education in Connecticut. This state is divided into counties and towns, and the towns into societies ; in each of which societies, the inhabitants, by common consent, and at their common expense, erect a school-house, in which to educate their children. If the society is too large for only one school, it is again subdivided into districts, and each district erects a school-house Tor its own accommodation. This is generally done by a tax levied by themselves, and apportioned according to the property or capacity of each individual. It being for the general good, all cheerfully pay their apportionment. Thus prepared, they hire a teacher to instruct their children in reading and writing, and some of them are taught the fundamental rules of arithmetic. They, for the most part, hire a male teacher for four months in the year, say from October to March, and his compensation (at the time I am speaking of) was from six to ten dollars a month, with his board. In order to obtain his board, he was under the necessity of going to each of nis employers' houses in rotation, making his time in each family as equal as possible, and in proportion to the number of children therein. In this way all the parents became acquainted with the master or mistress. In the summer one of the best informed girls in the neighbourhood was selected to teach the youngest children. To flatrv, the expense arising from this system, a tax was laid, and every man, whether married or unmarried, with children or without them, was obliged to pay the sum at which he was rated, and in this manner every one contributed for the good of the whole. In each society, one or more meeting-houses were established, whose congregations were either Presbyterians or Congregationalists, and a minister (as he is called) regularly ordained and located for a yearly stipend or salary, and generally during life. This was an oIJ and steady habit. The minister was considersd as the head of the school, as well as ot the meeting, and his like or dislike was equivalent to a law. All the children in each district, whether rich or poor, went to this school : all had an equal right to this kind of country education. To one oi these district schools I was sent at the age of four years, where I continued, learning to spell and read, until I was eight years old, when my father's family had increased to seven or eight children, with a fair prospect of more, (it afterwards amounted to thirteen in number.)

Finding it difficult to support us all as he wished, and I having become a stout boy of my age, he placed me with a neighbouring farmer to earn my living, by assisting him in his work. 1 rom the age of eight to fourteen years I worked on the land with different farmers in our neighbourhood, who having received but a very scanty education themselves, conceited, nevertheless, that they were overstocked with learning, as is generally the case with the most ignorant, and in this, their fancied wisdom, concluded that much less than they themselves possessed would answer my purpose, as I was but a poor boy!! Finding therefore that they would lose my labour during school hours, (for they had always taken great care to keep me fully employed in hard drudgery every moment I was out of school, scarcely allowing me the usual hours of refreshment and sleep,) they kept me from school, merely because, as they stated, they could not get along with their work without my help. When my parents remonstrated against such conduct in those who had come under a most solemn agreement to give me a plenty of schooling, they were assured "that I was a very forward boy ; that 1 could spell and read as well as any of the boys of my age; that I could repeat whole chapters in the Bible by heart, and knew all the Catechism and Creed, viz. the Presbyterian, which then was, and still is considered, all important in that section of the union called New-England : that I could sing psalms in the separate meetings full as well as those who had learned to sing by note; though indeed he cannot write, (said they) because be has no turn for writing." These representations tended in some measure to allay the anxiety of my parents, who wished me above all things to have a good common country education, as they at that time had no prospect of being able to give me any thing better. They had taught me, both by precept and practice, that to be honest, industrious, and prudent; to govern my passions, (which were violent,) to feel for and relieve the distresses of others when in my power; to be mild and affable in my manners, and virtuous in all my actions, was to be happy ; and they, generally, had instilled into my youthful mind every good principle.

I had now attained my fifteenth year ; was tall and stout for my age; and having become tired of hard work on the land, 1 concluded

OF HIS OWN LIFE. 17

that the best way to get rid of it, was to go to sea and visit foreign countries. My parents endeavoured to dissuade me from this project, and wished me to learn some mechanical trade ; but finding that I could not fix my mind upon any other business, they, with great reluctance, consented to my choice ; and I, accordingly, shipped on board a sloop bound to the West-Indies. Having no friend to pusn me forward, no dependence but on my own good conduct and exertions, and being ambitious to gain some distinction in the profession 1 had chosen, I contrived to acquire some knowledge in the art of navigation, theoretically as well as practically, and at the age of twenty years had passed through the grades of cabin boy, cook, ordinary seaman, seaman, second mate, and chief mate, on board different vessels. I was now six feet and one inch in height, and proportionably strong and athletic, when finding the sphere I then moved in to be too limited for my views and wishes, (it extending only from Connecticut river or New-Lonuon to the West-Indies, and back again,) 1 went to New-York, where I was soon appointed to the command of a good vessel, and since that time have continued in similar employment ; making voyages in all climates usually visited by American snips; traversing almost every sea, and travelling by land through many of the principal states and empires of the world. For several years Iliad charge of the cargoes as well as off the vessels I sailed in, and had a fair share of prosperity, until the month of January, 1808, when my ship, the Two Marys of New-York, was seized by the French, as I took shelter in Belle Isle, in the Bay of Biscay, from some English men of war, being bound for Nantz ; and the ship, with her valuable cargo, was confiscated, under the memorable Milan Decree of the 17th December, 1807, founded on the well known Orders in Council, of the 11th November, of the same year.

I remained in France until the ship and cargo were condemned, and did not return to my native country and family, till the latter part of the year 1809, with the loss, it is true, of nearly all the property I had before acquired, but wiser than I went out ; for I had learned to read, write, and speak both the French and Spanjgh languages ; had travelled pretty much all o' er France, where 1 had opportunities of witnessing many important operations in the science of war, calculated to attract my attention to the principles upon which they were founded; and I, at the same time, took lessons in the school of adver sity, which tended to prepare and discipline my mind for the future hardships I was destined to undergo. 1 now strove with all my power to stem the tide of misfortune, which began to set in against me with impetuous force. I had become a husband, and the father of four children, who looked up to me for support, and I strained every nerve to retrieve my lost fortune, by trading to sea : but it was of no avail ; every thing proved adverse, and after an absence of two years to Spain, Portugal, the Brazils. Rio de la Plata, or River of Silver, in South-America, the West-Indies, New-Orleans, &c. I returned home atthe commencement of the late war (1812) pennyless. Unarmed commerce on the ocean, my element, was at an end in an honourable way, and I could not obtain a station I wished for in the navy, nor could I obtain the command of a private armed vessel that suited mv views, owing to the want of funds ; nor would 1 accept of the command of a vessel and the consignment of a cargo navigated contrary to the laws of war, under foreign licenses: this I considered would derogate from the character 1 always wished to support, that of a true friend to my country, (whether in prosperity or adversity,) and a firm supporter of its laws and institutions, which I had proved by long experience in the ways of the world to be as good (at least) as those of any country under heaven. Though the*brTers that were made me were great and tempting, so that my acceptance of them could scarcely have failed of producing me a handsome fortune, and that in a very short period, yet I remained at home during the whole war, making use of all my faculties to gain a decent subsistence for my family. Soon after the burning of the Capitol and other public and private buildings at the seat of government, by the enemy, in August, 1814, when their commanders loudly threatened to destroy every assailable place on the seaboard, 1 believed that the time was near when every arm would be required for the general defence, particularly at the exposed seaport towns ; and having enrolled myself in a volunteer company of military exempt artillerists, composed chiefly of masters and mates of vessels, and seamen, I had the honour of being chosen their captain. But our services were not needed in the field.

Chapter II

Voyage in the Commerce from Connecticut River to New- Orleans.

After the close of the war, in April, 1815, being then in my native state, I was employed as master and supercargo of the brig Commerce of Hartford, in Connecticut: a vessel nearly new, and well fitted, of about two hundred and twenty tons burden, belonging to Messrs. Riley and Brown, Josiah Savage and Co. and Luther Savage, of that city. A light cargo was taken on board, and I shipped a crew, consisting of the following persons, namely ; George Williams, chief mate, Aaron R. Savage, second mate, William rorter, Archibald Robbins,' Thomas Burns, and James Clark, seaman; James Carrington and Francis Bliss, ordinary seaman; Horace Savage, cabin boy, and Richard Deslisle, (a black man) cook.

With this crew I proceeded to sea from the mouth of Connecticut river, on the sixth day of May, 1815, bound for New-Orleans. We continued to steer for the Bahama Islands, as winds and weather permitted, until the twentieth of the same month, when we saw the southernmost part of the island of Abaco, and passing the Hole in the Wall, on the twenty- first, entered on the Grand Bahama Bank to the leeward of the northernmost Berri Islands ; from thence, with a fair wind and good breeze, we steered W. S. W. twelve leagues ; then S. S. W. about forty leagues, crossing the Bank, in from three to four fathoms water. On the morning of the twenty-second we saw the Orange Key on our starboard beam; altered our course, and ran off the Bank, leaving them on our starboard hand distant one league. The water on this Great Bank, in most places, appears as white -^ milk, owing to the white sand at the bottom gle-ming through it. at. *

VOYAGE IN THE COMMERCE. 19

is so clear that an object, the size of a dollar, can be easily seen lying on the bottom in four fathom water, in a still time. Having got on the Bank, we steered W. S. W. for the Double-headed Shot Bank, and at meridian found ourselves, by good observations, in the latitude of 24. 30. being nearly that of the Orange Keys. In the afternoon it became nearly calm, but a good breeze springing up, we continued our course all night W. S. W. I remained on deck myself, on a sharp look out for the Double-headed Shot Bank, or Keys, until four o'clock, A. M. whenjudging by our distance we must be far past them, and consequently clear of that danger, I ordered the chief mate, who had charge of the watch, to keep a good look out, on all sides, for land, white Avater, and breakers ; and after repeating the same to the people, I went below to take a nap. At about five (then fair daylignt) I was awakened by a shock, and thought I felt the vessel touch bottom. I sprang on deck, put the helm to starboard, had all hands called in an instant, and saw breakers ahead and to southward, close on board ; apparently a sound on our right, and land to the northward, at about two leagues distance. The vessel's head was towards the S. W. and she running at the rate often miles the hour. I instantly seized the helm, put it hard to port, ordered all sails to be let run, and the anchors cleared away. The vessel touched lightly, three or four times: when I found she was over the reef, let go an anchor, which brought her up in two and a half fathoms, or fifteen feet of water, which was quite smooth. We now handed all the sails, and lowered down the boat. I went in'herwilh four hands, and sounded out a passage; found plenty of water to leeward of the reef, returned and got under way, and at seven o'clock, A. M. was in the open sea again, with a fresh breeze.