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Scenes and adventures in the army: or, Romance of military life

Philip St. George Cooke · 1859 · Scanned text

130,446 words · about 9 h 8 min to read

Period artwork: Interior of the Bodleian Library, 1845
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About this book

Author
Philip St. George Cooke
Language
English
Published
1859
Length
130,446 words · about 9 h 8 min
Sections
36 reader sections
Text
Scanned text, read from page scans by OCR; may contain errors
Rights
Public domain

 

Contents (36)
  1. Front matter under 1 min
  2. Chapter II under 1 min
  3. Chapter V under 1 min
  4. Chapter VII. Page under 1 min
  5. CHAPTER X. Another Indian Romance — Mah-za-pa-mee, . . . 75 under 1 min
  6. Chapter XIV under 1 min
  7. Chapter XV. Faqs under 1 min
  8. Chapter XX under 1 min
  9. Chapter XXI L under 1 min
  10. Chapter XXVII under 1 min
  11. Chapter VI about 1 min
  12. Chapter X under 1 min
  13. Chapter XI L under 1 min
  14. Chapter XV under 1 min
  15. Chapter XVI Il about 1 min
  16. Chapter I about 4 min
  17. Chapter II about 8 min
  18. Chapter III about 7 min
  19. Chapter IV about 5 min
  20. Chapter V about 4 h 13 min
  21. Chapter I about 29 min
  22. Chapter III about 14 min
  23. Chapter IV about 15 min
  24. Chapter V about 27 min
  25. Chapter VII about 22 min
  26. Chapter VIII about 12 min
  27. Chapter IX about 13 min
  28. Chapter X about 22 min
  29. Chapter XI I about 11 min
  30. CHAPTER XII I. June 27tli about 11 min
  31. Chapter XIV about 4 min
  32. Chapter XV about 26 min
  33. Chapter XVII about 12 min
  34. Chapter XVIII about 13 min
  35. Chapter XIX about 10 min
  36. Chapter XX about 26 min

Continue:

Front matter

ADVENTURES IN THE ARMY:

ROMANCE OF MILITARY LIFE.

BY

Chapter II

St. Louis in 1827 — Scenes at Mess — Anecdotes — A Large and Lively Garrison — Military Balls, • . . . . .16

CHAPTER II L

Departure np the Mississippi — Open Boats and Storms — Scenery — Rock Island — Prairie du Chien, . . . . .22

Chapter IV

Scenery of the Upper Mississippi — On a Bluff by Moonlight — Night Sail, and Prairies on Fire — Lake Pepin — Arrive at Fort Snelling, 28

Chapter V

Falls of St. Anthony — Departure — Night Scene with Indians — Fall Overboard — Lady in an Open Boat — Galena in 1828 — Breakfast on Gin — A Gambling Scene — Arrive at St. Louis, . 32

CHAPTER VL

Jefferson Barracks in 1828 — Further West — Fort Leavenworth — March on Santa Fe Road — Prairie Scenery — Buffalo Hunting, 39

VI CONTENTS.

Chapter VII. Page

Caravan Attacked — Night March, "Wild Scenery — A Desert and a Sirocco — Return to Chouteau Island — Man Killed — Dreadful March — Camp Attacked by 500 Camanches — Night Alarm, . 46

CHAPTERVIII.

Life in the Wilderness-^ — Another Indian Fight — Funeral and Wild Storm — Prairie Animals — Adventure with Wolves, . 55

Chapter IX

Prairie Evening Amusements — Indian Love-story related — Sha-wah-now — (Indian Battle, Flight, and Massacre), . . .62

CHAPTER X. Another Indian Romance — Mah-za-pa-mee, . . . 75

CHAPTER XL

Adventures, and Nan-ow Escape of an Expressman — His Comrade Killed — Return of Caravan — Escort of Mexican Troops and Indians — Attacked by Arapahoes — Indian Dance and Night Scenes, 82

Chapter XI L

Part with Mexicans — March for Home — Multitudes of Buffalo — Prairie Afire — Arrive at Fort Leavenworth, . . .89

Chapter XII L

Beautiful Scenery — Amusements at Fort Leavenworth — Trip up the Missouri — Dangerous Flood by Night — Fine Country, Hunting, 93

Chapter XIV

Prairie Musings — Platte River — Deserted Indian Town, by Night — Indian Houses Described — Dangerous Crossing of the Platte — Ruins of Fort Atkinson, Council Bluffs — Canoe Voyage down the Missouri— Deer Chase in the River, . . .100

CONTENTS. Vll

Chapter XV. Faqs

One Hundred Pawnees at Fort Leavenworth — Characteristic Dances — Sketch of I-e-tan, Otto Chief — His Romantic Life, and Tragic Death, . . . . . . . .109

CHAPTER XV L

The Indian Character and Customs — Medical System — Superstitions and Ceremonies — Tradition of Migration and Divisions of Winnebagoes — Agricultural and Hunting System, . .115

Chapter XX

Glass's Recovery — Escape in a Surprise and Massacre — Deadly Combat with an Indian — Rejoins His Old Party — His Revenge, 142

CHAPTER XXL

A Solitary Walk — Afternoon Repose of Beautiful Nature — A Daydream of the Ancient Indians — Orders for Another Frontier, 152

Chapter XXI L

Black Hawk War — Brought on by the Militia — Embark for St. Louis and Illinois River — Join Head Quarters — Old Friends — Volunteers Organizing — Queer Scenes — March for Rock via CONTENTS.

PAGE

River — False Alarm, and Rations thrown Away — Unaccountable Panic at Night — Army Marches North, .... 156

Sac Band Broken Up — A Dandy on the Battle Ground — Embark for Prairie du Chien — Indian Hags — Cholera in General Scott's Army — Night Adventure, 187

Chapter XXVII

General Scott's Division Arrives at Rock Island — Brings the Cholera — Indian Fighters most Afraid — Recklessness — Black Hawk a Prisoner — Winter at Jefferson Barracks, . . .192

CHAPTER XXVII I.

Recruiting for Dragoons in West Tennessee — Adventures There — A Baptist Sermon, and Life at Perryville — Electioneering and Horse-swapping — Jackson, Tennessee — David Crockett — Nashville, 197

Chapter VI

March for the Rocky Mountains — Emigrants — Pretty Scenery — Dialogue — A Prairie Marriage — The Little Blue — A Hurricane — Pawnees — Attacked by a Dog — Splendid Sunrise on the Platte, 282

CHAPTER VI L

The Platte — A Phenomenon — Thoughts on Cortez, and Conquest of Mexico — A Picturesque Funeral — Beautiful Camping Scene — Bad Grass — Buffalo, and the Chase — Scene at Crossing of the Platte — Dialogue — Day-dreams — And a Real Dream in Ash Hollow, . 293

Chapter VIII

A Ridiculous Buffelo Chase — A Narrow Escape — Creole "Engages" — Dialogue on Poetry, Astronomy, and Natural Philosophy, 309

Chapter IX

Wonderful Mirage, and Beautiful Scenery — A Sioux Village — Dialogue, Women Compared with Men — Poetry and Romance Favorable to Women — Verses, 318

Chapter X

Scott's BlufF, Romantic Scenery — The Prairie Animals — Motives of Emigration — Dialogue, and Night Thoughts, . . . 328

CHAPTER XL

Fort Laramie — Mongrel Population — The Sioux in Council — March for the Mountains — A Lost Squaw and Children — Man Shot— Night Scene, 335

Chapter XI L

Grizzly Bear Chase — Volcanic Desert and Epsom Salt — BufiFalo Chase There — Independence Rock, and Sweet Water — Devil's Gate, Sublime Scene — Chamois, or " Big-horn" Chase — First View of Snow Peaks, ........ 344

CONTENTS. XI

Chapter XIII. Page

Halt in a Beautiful Valley— Dialogue on The Beautiful— Tyranny of Society and Fashion— Golden Sands, Palseontology — One View of Niagara Falls, 353

Chapter XIV

South Pass, Camp in Oregon— The Spring of the Sweet Water — Moonlight Soliloquy on a Mountain Peak, . . . 362

Chapter XV

Homeward Bound— Poor Lands of Oregon— Prairie Pet Ani- „i:ils_Fuurth of July Thoughts, Independence, Liberty, and Eciuality — What Nations have them— Indian Romance, and American Literature, ^"-^

CHAPTER XVL

Farewell. to Sweet Water— The Emigrants— Magnificent Scenery First Seen by Whites— A Romantic Night Watch, Dialogue- Episode of the Florida War, 373

CHAPTER XVIL

Was it a Dream ? Watcher's Soliloquy— Singular Disease, Fortunately no Physician— Cub, a Tragedy in Three Acts— Great Fire and Escape— First March Southward— Evening Meditation, "^^^

Chapter XVI Il

Romantic Cheyenne Village — Adventures There — Our Few Wants Unsujpplied in the Wilderness — March Without Water — Lost Squaw Restored to her Friends — Long's Peak — Arrive at South Platte, -^^^

CHAPTER XIX.

A " New Style" — Dialogue — Lost Hunters Return — Mount Pike — A Charming Mountain Valley — Night Scenes and Adventures — Storm in the Mountains, 404

XU CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XX.

PAGE

The Storm Discussed — Daily Showers in the ]\Iountains, sometimes Snow — The Arkansas, Bent's Fort — Mexicans, Donkeys, Indians — A Medicine Lodge — Indian Customs, . . . 412

CHAPTER XXL

Our Daily Labors — Reverie — Botany — Languajje of Flowers — Last Buffalo Chase — Hard and Hot March — Reach Home, . 421

SCENES AND ADVENTURES IN THE ARMY,

PART I.

Chapter I

My furlough was past ! What varied emotions did that reflection excite ! Strong were the regrets at parting for an indefinite period from devoted rehitions ; and the young heart yearning with romantic hope, might well shudder on the threshold of the real life.

The stage-coach was at the door.

Those sorrowful partings over, with happy elasticity, I was soon enjoying the rapid motion of the coach — always exhilarating — but then severing me from the safe haven of home affections, and hearts which trembled painfully as I was thus launched on life's perilous voyage.

For at careless eighteen, impressions are fleeting ; and the world, aye, the western world, was all before me, and bright with the anticipations of novelty and enjoyment : and the freshness and adventure of travel, were to be shared by the warm friends of my academical youth.

With a number of these, who, like myself, obeying the calls of duty and inclination, were to make a long journey westward, I had planned a meeting at a village in

II SCENES AND ADVENTURES

Maryland. And never was appointment better kept, than bj my before widely-separated comrades ; and eager and warm were the greetings of that midnight hour ! But we were hurried, by an unsympathizing driver, to resume, together, our night-ride ; we had the coach, fortunately, all to ourselves ; but right soon, in darkness, came the reaction of our exuberant spirits, and we began to drop oif into wonderfully confused and uneasy postures, and the sleep of careless youth.

And thus we journeyed on ; joking and joyous by day, — at night, snarling from unceremonious slumbers.

At Wheeling we made a halt for some days : we had been jolted and jumbled enough for lovers of variety, and " Za helle riviere' tempted us to embark our fortunes, or rather persons, on its shining currents ; but, in truth, its beauties were too superficial ; and we were assured that the lightest bark would make but a tedious progress through its deceitful shallows. So we were fain content, with our ranks further swelled to a most lively number, again to take stage, and thus pursue our journey to Cincinnati. I remember the numberless black squirrels which we saw the first morning, sharing the rich fruits of those many corn-crowned hills ; and the number which we found in a tree in front of our breakfasting house ; and how, after being routed out of its topmost branches, the poor fellows were forced to make beautiful leaps to the ground.

From Cincinnati we went by steamboat to Louisville. There we mustered twenty strong ; and remained eight rainy days, waiting for the river to rise. Our time passed pleasantly enough in that hospitable city, which would seem to be a favorite with the army, for many of its officers have formed the tenderest of ties there. During our stay, we shared in the most popular sport of the sportioving Kentuckians, — a horse race. The course is several miles from the city ; but we were all there, and beheld seven long-legged colts contend for the prize ; and that Kentucky spicing to such pleasures — a fight or two — was not wanting to complete the day's experience.

In due time the river did rise, and we embarked for Jefferson Barracks, the new "School of Instruction." The boat seemed to be chartered by the military; we filled the cabin, and the deck was monopolized by a detachment of recruits. The passage was a long, but merry one ; and that cards were played, I am too faithful a historian to deny.

Many years have elapsed, but I have now before my eyes the vivid impression of a night-scene near the mouth of the Ohio. The moon was a graceful crescent, and the glassy waters, glittering with its beams, reflected, too, many a lovely star, and caught the soft azure of their airy depths ; and this beautiful reflection of a bright and starry sky, seemed to tremble at the mysterious and thorough gloom of the primeval forests. And another boat passed by, with its brilliant lights, magical motion, and solemn, echoed sounds ; its bright path, too, and its long succession of regular and polished waves, each a mirror for the lovely moon. There is something startling, if not awful, by night, in those hollow but sonorous echoes to the escape pipe, which the lofty forests of the western river-bottoms give out ; they seem the angry bellowings of wood demons, aroused by this intrusion of man and his wondrous works.

Hight well do I remember, too, a scene different as possible, though by night : a western storm upon the waters ! The boat was, fortunately, moored under the verge of one of those immense Mississippi bottoms, — in itself, by night, awful as the wastes of ocean. The rain fell as if nature was dissolved : the caverns of earth are never dai-ker than it was then ; the roar of waters and darkness were the universe. I was alone, and enjoying its sublimity, forgot that my poor body was exposed to the tempest.

The boat touched at dawn of the eighth day at Jefferson Barracks. Those who had slept at all, had risen ; an adjutant, mounted on an immense black horse, and having for suite, a whole troop of dogs, received us on the bank, and proceeded with us to report to his chief, Colonel L. We were exhilarated in our walk over that delightful spot by three bands, striking up from different hill-tops and groves, the familiar, beautiful, but never so charming reveille. The Colonel, evidently just out of bed, received us with great kindness and frankness ; and readily consented to our proceeding in the boat to St. Louis ; and in a few hours we were all on shore, exploring the terra incognita of that rising city of the West.

Chapter II

The characteristics of St. Louis, in 1827, which first struck me, were the muddiness of the streets — the badness of the hotels — the numbers of the Creole-French, speaking the French language — working on the Sabbath — a floating population of trappers, traders, boatmen, and Indians — and finally, an absence of paper currency. These were all very distinctive ; and in truth, St. Louis had very little of the Anglo-American character. Rowdyism was the order of the day — the predominating influence of the street population of Indian traders and other northwestern adventurers. These men, in outi'e dresses, and well armed, were as characteristic in their deportment as sailors ; exhibiting the independence, confidence, and recklessness of their wild and lawless way of life. All this was food for my companions on the qui vive for novelty ; they were to be seen in all directions, on voyages of discovery through the mud, and seemed suddenly to have become a very homogeneous element in this rare compound : and parties of officers from the barracks daily galloped into the town, which they enlivened in a sort of sailor-like style. Fun and frolic then prevailed in St. Louis.

But our duties at the barracks did not permit us to remain long in this attractive city ; so after a punctual call upon a certain army official, who cures that most distressing of human afflictions, a consumptive purse, and after receiving a quantum of hard dollars (not sufficient to produce a plethora), we bade adieu to the lively town until — the next time. Some of the party, like children pleased with a new toy, had already purchased Indian ponies, upon which they shuffled oft', after a most unmilitary fashion, to their post.

None of the actors in those scenes can fail to recur with some pleasure, to the gayeties of 1827-8 at Jefferson Barracks. One of the regiments was in cantonment on the south side of the first hill ; a quarter of a mile farther on, another, the 6th infantry, was encamped ; on the crest of the next hill, were extensive stone barracks in progress ; and still lower down, on its southern declivity, were encamped the 1st infantry ; some staff and other officers, with their families, were in huts in various detached situations. Two of the regiments had, a few months before, arrived from a remote outpost. There, cut off from the world, and dependent on their own resources, the officers had not failed to make themselves what amends they might, and to cultivate the most friendly intimacies, on which were founded a thousand practical jokes and endless adventures ; and the pleasures and incidents of this, a kind of golden age, they had in truth, the least disposition in the world to consign to oblivion.

A day or two after joining, I, with several friends, dined at the regimental mess of the 6th. It then was a mess indeed — in numbers and in spirit, a delightful mess, such as few regiments now have. Noble spirits ! brave friends ! How devoted, how social were you then ! How modest, yet how ardent, was your esprit de corps ! whereever active service was to be done, on the borders of Mexico, or in the far North, you were there ! And have you not led the "moving battery" to victory, and poured out your life-blood, like water, in Florida? You are scattered and gone, but well I "remember the regiment to which you belonged."

But the past and the present must be kept distinct. I thought them a glorious set at that first dinner. The

president was Capt. , with his splendid whiskers and

mustaches, dignified and easy in his manners, he seemed a type of the old school ; and from that, the inference may be drawn, that he took wine freely when in such happy company ; to the life of Avhich, indeed, he gave a constant impulse. And the caterer was Adjutant J., a noble fellow, whose looks alone could make a friend; and R delighted us with his endless sallies, his jokes and merriment. I have now before me his immense whiskers, and his twinkling, deep-set eyes, lost nearly in incessant laughter — and his dance, too, upon the dinner-table, which was the finale.

Capt. , soon after became in low health, and being

of impatient temper, his spirits sunk under it. His life was in danger ; and as a last resort. Surgeon G. prescribed a singular mode of treatment — a novel kind of

exciteinent — which was intrusted to Lieut. R . He

paraded daily around the Captain's tent with a long face, whistling the dead march; and it so happened that, being first on the list, the Captain's death would cause his promotion. But Capt. , taking this view of it, very

seriously waxed wrathful, and swore he would not die for his tormentor's sake ; and the cure was made.

What would thirty young officers be at ? Not much time was consumed in considering such a question ; in all intervals of duty we gladly resigned ourselves to the influences of chance or impulse, and sufficient to the day were the pleasures thereof; none thought of the morrow; to the many all was new, even the service itself — a new country and manners, and there were some new Beauties. Daily, numbers of us would be surprised by the dinnerdrum at the camp of the hospitable 6th or 1st, and then it was useless to attempt an excuse ; go you must to the mess. Many and delightful were those dinners at mess ! Right joyous was it to mingle with those officers, whose minds and manners had received a fresh mould from their life in the generous, the open-hearted,- daring and adventurous — the frank and hospitable far West ; and what stores of anecdote and right marvellous adventure had been laid up in seven years' service at the famous Council Bluff's ! Wine flowed freely, our spirits overflowed.

What other could be more delightful than this favored spot, with its gently-rolling hills crowned with lofty forest trees, without undergrowth, save grass and wild flowers ; and a river, the noblest in the world, running by ? Such is Jefferson Barracks. On a level space just upon the bank of the river, shaded and adorned by clumps of venerable but vigorous trees, oaks and sycamores, was the grand guard parade, generally enlivened by the music of a full band — a delightful resort ! Ay, and other attractions were wont to fill the measure of its popularity; beauty added its spell to the charming scene ; the young and lovely came often there at an early hour of rosy morning, when nature is in her happiest mood.

But how can garrison life be dwelt on? It cannot, unless, indeed, we descend to all those trifles that fill the precious hours and steal away the days. A soldier is all his country's ; his irregular though numerous duties divide his time, distract his attention, and defeat his plans. How difficult, then, to avoid the fate of becoming the mere soldier. A knowledge of the world, a graceful carriage, easy manners, general but superficial information, with lofty aspirations, bitter repinings, and habits of idleness — these are his inheritance ; the light and easy garment that he receives in exchange for the mantle of eminence. But why notv question the seal of fate?

The middle of December found the 6th still in camp. Our log-fires in front of tents had become centres of attraction ; but the smoke was a great enemy to our comfort. It was amusing to observe a gathering round a fire ; the little circle seated on stools, boxes, or logs ; 8ome one was continually attacked, and would run for his breath, and forming his circuit, his enemy, less quick, though airy, seeming to follow at first, would leave him for another, who, in his turn, uttering broken maledictions, would make his circular retreat, seeking another or the same seat, ere long again to be routed.

The sporting tribe might be seen here and there examining a horse, or physicking a dog, or restraining vociferously the vagaries of a whole pack of them. A

few sly ones would find their way to old Capt. 's tent,

which had a brick chimney, together with the luxury of a mantel-piece ; and this mantel-piece had notoriously a remarkable capacity for holding sugar dishes, whole battalions of mint phials, not to omit a great julep pitcher, Avhich was commonly well filled. Oh camps ! with your exposures and privations, how you encourage and excuse the solid comfort of a julep !

Before Christmas, the 6th were in the stone barracks, half finished and uncomfortable, and were crowded several in a room ; and it was our lot, after turning into bunk, in the " small hours" of the night, to be saluted at day-dawn with the din of hammers overhead, an occasional shower of dust and mortar, with a sprinkling of brickbats, which fairly bade us, at the peril of our heads, "sleep no more."

On new-year's morn many were they who found themselves at that log temple of hospitality, the mess-house of the 1st, and paid their devoirs to a half whiskey barrel in the middle of an immense table, foaming to the top Avith egg-nog. The 6th regiment that day entertained all at the post at a dinner, and midnight found us still at the table.

On the 8th of January, the 1st gave a splendid ball in an unfinished barrack ; a noble display of flags was above and around us, with hundreds of bright muskets with a candle in the muzzle of each. Many from St. Louis were there ; and Louisville, too, had several beautiful representatives.

Thus flew by six months on the wings of pleasure. But the time came when the 1st and 6th, long associated as a band of brothers, were to part ; the former being ordered to the Upper Mississippi. Their furniture being packed up, the whole of them for several days messed with the 6th. Our last dinner I shall never forget ; we sought to drown the bitter regrets of parting in the extravagant enjoyment of the last fleeting minutes. At the winding up, Capt. G. delivered from a table, in an Indian language, a characteristic farewell speech, which, as interpreted, began — " Our great Father has long smiled upon our fellowship ; his councils now are bad, a cloud is before his face," &c.

The summer came, and was passed pleasantly enough. At its close I was well pleased to be ordered on my first active service.

Chapter III

On the 27th of September, 1828, I left Jefierson Barracks, to conduct a detachment of about forty recruits to Fort Crawford, at Prairie du Chien. There was no officer with me. I embarked in two " Mackinaw" boats, as they are called ; they are of about three tons burden, without deck or box, sharp fore and aft. Mine were old and leaky. I found it tedious and laborious for eight oarsmen to force them against the current in many parts of the Mississippi ; and, according to the custom of the country, took advantage of bare sand-bars and open banks to use the " cordel ;" that is, to send ashore ten or fifteen men to tow the boat hj means of a long rope attached to the head of a small mast. In doubling the points of bars, and in other shallow places, these men would wade along with the cordel on their shoulders, sometimes for a mile, perhaps half-leg deep; it was "working a passage" with a vengeance at that season. I made my first camp on Bloody Island, near St. Louis. While I was in the city next morning, getting a barrel or two of hard bread, my sergeant, who was an old hand of the 6th, made, with no other tool than an axe, a very good rudder, from a standing tree.

The morning after, I passed the mouth of the Missouri. This river, after draining the valleys of the Rocky Mountains, and receiving tributaries throughout a course of three thousand miles, precipitates its turbid currents right across the placid bosom of the Mississippi, to which, losing its name, it imparts its character.

A few miles above the junction is the mouth of the Illinois, itself a great river, navigable for steamboats some four hundred miles ; but little known to fame, eclipsed, as it were, by the grandeur of the West. I encamped at Portage de Sioux ; it was a moonlit night; on the opposite verge of a noble sheet of water — the river, placid and calm, but giving to the ear the solemn, distant music of its currents — stood lofty and fantastical rocks, of the height and a little resembling the Palisades of the Hudson ; but these were cavernous, and there were arches, pilasters, and isolated turrets. They appeared the ruins of a castellated city ; the soft light of the moon helping out the imagination, with a most perfect clear-obscure.

Some dozen miles below Clarksville, in company with my sergeant, I went on shore, as I frequently had done.

to hunt. We had moved leisurely along an hour or two, when we began to find ourselves a little out of our bearings, or rather had become entangled with the sloughs of the river ; after much fatigue we found ourselves in the edge of an immense level prairie bottom, where the grass was seven or eight feet high. A high bluff rose beyond, and I confess that, left to myself, I should have made for it, firmly believing that it was the opposite bank of the river ; but my companion, an excellent woodsman, knew better, and saved me a seven or eight miles' trudge through this prairie sea. But the best he could do was to strike the main river at night ; opposite, as it happened, to Clarksville. We crossed in a crazy canoe ; and I found the boats had not passed or arrived ! What a predicament for a young commander ! I was much annoyed, but made out to take a good night's rest in bed, with philosophical resignation.

My men arrived next morning, to my joy and surprise, with nothing amiss, save numerous red eyes, and a broken demijohn, which it was plain had been well hugged before being subjected to such ill-treatment.

Some fifty miles below the Des Moines rapids, when weary of our slow progress, and with our store of pork very low, it was reported to me early one morning that some of the men were in pursuit of wild hogs. They soon after brought in two immensely large black ones, which they assured me were selected as the smallest of the herd, which had rushed at the men and forced them to take refuge in trees. A settler or hunter of the vicinity had joined in the sport. They were a seasonable supply, and were forthwith skinned and salted. While thus employed, a steamboat hove in sight below. On its arrival I had my boats taken in tow. My recruits soon gave me a spice of their quality ; thej were enlisted at Natchez, and were as precious a set of scoundrels as were perhaps ever there collected ; they were drunken and mutinous from this time until after we quit the steamer at the rapids. One of them, whom I had tied up with a half-inch rope, repeatedly gnawed himself loose !

At the foot of these rapids was a passenger harge in tow of a steam keel-boat, with about twenty passengers, who had already waited some two weeks with Turkish resignation, for fate, or higher water, to forward them on their journey. Genius of railroads ! spirit of a travelling age ! Think, ye eastern locomotive bipeds, who, spirited over the earth at the rate of 600 miles a day, snarl at the grievous detention of a minute — think of this, and learn moderation. These said travellers spent their nights, I discovered, playing at cards ; how they got through with their days passes my comprehension.

On the rocks of these rapids I abandoned one of my boats, having a second time overhauled and attempted to caulk it. I left it bottom upwards, giving it at parting, out of pure malice, several gashes with an axe. It was soon afterwards seized by a wrecker as a lawful prize, sold for five dollars, and again for ten ; and the last purchaser, by sawing it in two and planking up the stern, had a very good make-shift craft for down stream work.

I had now to leave a party on shore, with orders to march as much in sight of my boat as they could. Night came on, and nothing was to be heard or seen of the detachment. Until 10 o'clock we kept on, firing signals, but to no purpose. We encamped on a miserable island; and in the middle of the next day we found them at a hut near the shore. All this was occasioned by the immense number of islands ; the main shore had not been visible for thirty miles on either side.

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