The wilderness of the upper Yukon; a hunter's explorations for wild sheep in sub-arctic mountains

Front matter

A i> M

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Preface

This book is a record of my field experiences while engaged in studying the color variations of the wild sheep of Yukon Territory. It is an attempt to give a detailed account strictly from the point of view of a hunter interested in natural history.

Most parts of the Territory which are inhabited by sheep are also the favorite abodes of moose and grizzly bears, and some of them of caribou. The black bear inhabits the forests everywhere below timber-line ; the white goat lives exclusively in the humid belt of the Coast ranges. No other game animals exist in the Yukon wilderness. Most of the fur-bearing animals of the Hudsonian zone are abundant on the timbered slopes immediately below the sheep ranges. The number of species of mammals and birds is small.

In the North, wild sheep dwell exclusively on high mountains, above timber-line, usually well back within the ranges. Nearly all of the mountains on which I hunted, with the exception of Plateau Mountain and those near Watson River, were untrodden by the foot of white man or Indian. The wilderness was primeval, the sheep practically undisturbed, the other game animals seldom hunted. It was not possible to find guides, for there were none. It was necessary not only to search out a route to the mountains, but also to find the ranges occupied by sheep. I have, therefore, adopted the subtitle, *'A Hunter's Explorations for Wild Sheep in Sub- Arctic Mountains.'* viii PREFACE

Having made my trips under such conditions, I have tried to record my experiences when travelHng by steamboat, canoe, with pack-horses, and on foot; my efforts to find game and the details of hunting it; and a faithful account of the actions of all animals observed. To this I have added descriptions of the country traversed, my impressions of the scenery, and notes on the weather; so that the book might present a picture of the wilderness of Yukon Territory.

All of my actual hunting has been done alone, without guide or companion. For the purpose of keeping a record, each day's experiences and observations were written in my journal before retiring to sleep. The exceptions to this practice were very rare.

A portion of these journals relates to the habits of animals. In view of subsequent experiences, however, I regard those gained in Yukon Territory merely as a training in observation — a perspective for more correctly interpreting the observed traits and life histories of animals. This was a great help during the two following years (including the whole of one) which were spent in the interior of Alaska, where the same animals were much more abundant. For this reason, I have touched only suggestively on habits, but hope to include a discussion of them in a future publication.

The photographs having legends quoted from the text are accurate illustrations, both in time and place, of that part of the text included in the quotations. With two exceptions, all photographs of dead animals exhibit their attitudes before I touched them, after they had fallen and died.

In his interesting book. Recent Hunting Trips in British North America, F. C. Selous has given an account of our trip up the MacMillan River. At the risk of some

PREFACE ix

duplication, I have included my narrative of it, not only because most of my hunting was directed toward the finding of sheep and consequently differed from his, but also to make my record of the wilderness country more complete. Selous has also described his later trip to the South Fork of the MacMillan, where he found the woodland caribou, Rangifer osborni, abundant. During my wanderings, I met with these animals but once, and then my observation was limited to a cow and her calf.

None of the annals of "breaking the wilderness" have been enriched by more romance than that of the advance of mining interests in Yukon Territory and Alaska. This has been told in several good books, which also include descriptions of the Lewes and Yukon Rivers. Therefore all allusions to the well-known routes of travel and the settled parts of the Territory have been excluded from my narrative. But I have included a short trip up the Katzehin River, near Skagway — the gateway to Yukon Territory. For those interested in natural history studies, chapter XX, which includes a discussion of the variations of the sheep, and also short remarks on some other animals, has been added to the narrative.

A general map of Yukon Territory, including my hunting camps, is inserted at the beginning of chapter XX.

Appendices are added, giving: (A) a list of books and other publications relating to Sport, Natural History, Exploration, and the Topography of the Territory; (B) a list of the animals and fishes mentioned in the present volume, with their scientific names; (C) reproductions of the original descriptions of the northern species of sheep (descriptions written when knowledge of the sheep was very limited); (D) measurements of some of the sheep killed; and (E) a record of the time of travelling by canoe down the Pelly River.

X PREFACE

I have never received anything but the heartiest goodwill and the most kindly consideration from all people whom I met in Yukon Territory. Without exception, willing assistance was always offered, and given when needed, and I take this opportunity of expressing my thanks.

It would be difficult to adequately express my indebtedness to my friend, A. B. Newell, who at that time was Vice-President of the White Pass Railroad, and managed the river steamers between Whitehorse and Dawson. Not only did he place at my disposal all the facilities of that vast transportation system, but he did what was still more valuable for the accomplishment of my plans — he gave his personal interest.

W. H. Osgood and Carl Rungius have both placed all their photographs at my disposal, and I must especially mention the interest of Mr. Rungius in making some illustrations for this book. No other artist has had the experiences that would make it possible for him to record so accurately the animal life of the Yukon region. Mr. H. Q. French has kindly permitted me to use two of his photographs.

E. W. Nelson and Arthur Colton have both read over that part of the narrative which relates to Coal Creek, and I have received much valuable criticism from them.

With extraordinary patience. Dr. C. Hart Merriam has sacrificed his time and read the whole manuscript. I have accepted his numerous suggestions as to its form, and also his still more numerous corrections of the text. My obligation is so great, that I wish to lay special emphasis on his interest and assistance, and in thanking him, to express my feeling of appreciation.

Nobody except myself, however, is responsible for any of the conclusions in the text.

PREFACE xi

The pleasantest part of preparing the narrative has been the co-operation of my wife.

A legitimate number of the animals killed were reserved for trophies; the others were collected especially for the U. S. Biological Survey, and are now in the new National Museum at Washington.

The Biological Survey, a bureau of our National Department of Agriculture, is an institution too little known, and since it co-operated with me in all my work in the north, thus adding pleasure not anticipated, I would gladly bring its magnificent work to the attention of a wider public than that of the specialists and others directly interested. It was organized in 1885 for the purpose of studying the food habits of our native birds and mammals in their relations to agriculture, by Dr. C. Hart Merriam, who possesses one of the keenest scientific minds which the country has produced. Dr. Merriam saw that the continent of North America, stretching from the tropics to the Polar Sea, comprising vast areas of tropical, temperate, and arctic lands, and supporting a number of widely different fauna and flora, afforded an unrivalled field for the study of the interrelations of species, and the correlation of the distribution of animal and plant life. He was the first to appreciate and demonstrate the intimate relation between the agricultural possibilities of a region and the distribution of its native forms of life.

In order to learn the facts of distribution it was necessary to collect and determine the species inhabiting all parts of the continent. For this purpose trained naturalists were sent into the field to discover the boundary lines of the various fauna, and to bring back collections for critical study. During the past twenty years, nearly one hundred thousand specimens of mammals, besides many xii PREFACE

thousand birds, reptiles, and plants have been systematically collected in various parts of North America from the arctic regions to the tropics, and from the eastern to the western borders of the continent. From the data thus secured and from other sources, the areas occupied by a considerable number of species have been mapped. The study of this accumulated information has resulted in definitely outlining the life zones into which North America is divided, and in demonstrating that each life zone, except the most northern, represents a crop zone or climatic belt, to which certain crops are best adapted. This close relation of the life zones to agriculture is shown in maps and bulletins published by the Biological Survey.

Throughout its existence the Survey has made exhaustive studies of the food habits of the species of birds and mammals for the purpose of determining their relations to agriculture, and has conducted experiments for the purpose of devising methods of protection for the beneficial, and methods of destruction for the injurious species. The benefits to our agricultural and grazing interests have already been great, and as our lands become more densely populated the economic results will prove of still greater value. To accomplish these ends Dr. Merriam has gathered about him a corps of trained field naturalists, more efficient for the purpose than any similar body of men in the world.

As a nation we should be proud that the men engaged in this work have been broad enough not to neglect the profound scientific problems involved in it — problems touching the origin and dispersal of species. Darwin was perplexed by what seemed a grave objection to his theory, the apparent absence of transitional forms between species. The collections made by the Biological

PREFACE xHi

Survey, both of mammals and birds, are extremely rich in these intermediate or intergrading forms — forms connecting many of the well marked types which were formerly considered distinct species; and one day, when the time can be spared from more strictly official work,* the subject will be enriched by studies based upon this material — studies likely to form one of the most valuable contributions of this generation to our knowledge of evolution — and we shall look back on the work of the Biological Survey as one of the most valuable achievements, both practical and scientific, that ever had its origin in a governmental department.

In the way of field equipment, I had an open canvas shelter, instead of a tent, with side wings so constructed that, when pegged to the ground, they inclined outward at an angle from the perpendicular, leaving extra space for storing provisions. A detachable strip of canvas, a foot wide, could be tied in front and sloped outward over inclined poles. This prevented the rain from blowing in. No one who loves camp life can prefer a tent to a shelter, except in winter. The log fire which is always made before the shelter, reflects warmth directly inside, so that one can sit at ease and in enjoyment in all but the coldest weather. A shelter is also more convenient to erect than a tent.

For sleeping, I had a coon-skin robe, eight feet square. It weighed fourteen pounds. It keeps me warm enough even in winter weather. A lynx-skin robe is better and warmer, but more expensive. A caribou- or reindeer-skin robe is the best of all. Equally warm, it is very much lighter than either of the others. The wolf-skin robe is

* Since the above was written Dr. Merriam has retired from his official position for the purpose of devoting his time exclusively to scientific studies. A large part of the results will appear in a comprehensive work on North American mammals.

xiv PREFACE

more commonly used by trappers and prospectors, but is heavier.

Until the month of November I always wore summer underclothing. A gray flannel shirt, and one pair of gabardine trousers last me for two seasons. Heavy woollen socks and moccasins (leather, or preferably moosehide when to be had in sufficient quantity) provide the footgear necessary for summer. The rubber shoe with leather uppers, soled and hobnailed, if possible, is best for early fall. I never wore a coat, but instead carried a parkay or seamless cloak, made of the skins of ground-squirrels. I wore this only on the tops of mountains, or when the cold required it. A pair of Zeiss prism field-glasses, eight or ten power, an Eastman kodak for films, 31-4 X 41-4, were always carried on my belt. Any kind of felt hat answered, but usually I hunted without any hat at all. One of the most important things was my Alpine riicksack, which had been made in Germany. Instead of a coat, I always carried this on my shoulders. In it were the parkay and any extra things needed. Sixty pounds of meat could be packed into it, or a whole bear skin, or the head and skin of a ram. One small canvas bag would hold all my equipment for a season, except the small mouse traps, and the steel traps. A common pocket knife of good steel, for skinning, a compass, a barometer and a steel tape were always in my pockets. Usually I bought the provisions commonly used by all prospectors and trappers of the country — flour, rice, sugar, dried fruit, butter in cans, tea, bacon and salt; and a few other things when transportation could be provided. Skins were cured with salt when I could bring it. I always had a .22 rifle to use for shooting grouse and small animals, but for large game my Mannlicher, .256 calibre, is the only rifle I have ever used in the North.

Preface To The Second Edition

During the eight years which have passed since this book was pubHshed, I have not found any reasons to change my conclusions on the causes which produce the variable colors of the Ovis-dallistonei group of sheep.

In this edition, aside from a few footnotes added in Chapter XX, and a few changes in scientific names, I have slightly changed the map of color distribution to conform with such information as I have been able to accumulate up to this date. I sent numerous separates of the original map, plate, and Chapter XX to hunters, trappers, prospectors, and residents throughout the north, and also to others familiar with the regions indicated, asking for criticism and correction. The total result only necessitates some slight changes in the map, but practically none in the color plate opposite the map.

At different times three articles have been published containing remarks which, if true, contradict my statements in Chapter XX on the subject of horns, pelage, and distribution of sheep. I have therefore made these articles the basis for a fuller discussion of these interesting subjects, and for that purpose have added Appendix F.

The individuals who have taken an interest in the color distribution of sheep and have written to assist me in correcting the map are numerous. The list would be a long one if I should record their names. In thus acknowledging their aid I am glad also to thank them.

Charles Sheldon.

Washington, D. C.

April I, 1919,

XT

C O N T E N TS

CHAPTEK PAGE

I. The Trip to the Ogilvie Rockies — 1904 . 3

II. On the Sheep Ranges — 1904 22

III. Searching for Rams — 1904 51

IV. The Final Stalk — 1904 72

V. The Trip to the Forks of the MacMillan

VI. Up the North Fork to the Selwyn Rockies

—1904 97

VII. Searching for Sheep — 1904 112

VIII. Looking for Rams — 1904 125

IX. Down the North Fork. Plateau Mountain — 1904 136

X. The Watson River Country — 1904 . . . 155

XL The Katzehin River in Alaska — 1905 . . 171

XII. The Pelly River — 1905 177

XIII. The Pelly Mountains — 1905 194

XIV. Hunting Rams — 1905 206

XV. The Final Hunt for Rams — 1905 .... 229

XVI. The Trip up Ross River — 1905 251

XVII. The Sheep of Mount Sheldon — 1905 . . 266

IVll xviii CONTENTS

CHAFTEK »AG«

XVIII. The Rose Mountains — 1905 276

XIX. The Glenlyon Mountains — 1905 .... 286

XX. Remarks on Some of the Animals of Yukon

Territory 299

Appendix A. — List of Books Relating to Sport, Natural History, AND Exploration of the Yukon Territory ... 331

Appendix B. — Scientific Names of Animals Mentioned in the Narrative 333

Appendix C. — Original Descriptions of

Northern Sheep .... 336

Appendix D. — Horn Measurements . . . 340

Appendix E. — Time Spent in Paddling

Down Pelly River . . . 344

Appendix F. — Distribution, Horns, and Pelage OF Sheep 345

Index 355

ILLUSTRATIONS

Vignette on cover from a drawing by Carl Rungius of the head of big ram killed by the author August 2, 1904.

Rams (colored plate) Frontisptecf

FACINO PAGB

North- West Mounted Police on Yukon River below mouth of

Coal Creek, July 8 8

Fording Coal Creek 8

"Across from camp the mountains were particularly rough,"

July 15 18

"The mountains . , . extended high above timberline," July 14 18

Looking up Coal Creek, July 15 20

Peak of Ogilvie Rockies, July 15 20

"We travelled on bars, fording back and forth," July 12 . . . 20

"I saw the bear slowly walking along the upper surface of the

basin" (colored plate) 22

"Mountains with fantastic pinnacles and rock-turreted slopes

surrounded us" 28

"Perhaps the highest of those in the Divide ranges" .... 28

"She fell, kicked once or twice, and was dead," July 16 . . . 28

Our camp in the heart of the hunting country in the Ogilvie

Rockies, July 17 32

Our horses standing in the smoke to keep off mosquitoes . . 32

Bull caribou on mountain in Ogilvie Rockies 38

"He dropped, rolled a few yards, and was caught in the broken

rock," July 19 42

Caribou, killed July 19 42

"We loaded the ram on Mike," July 23 52 xiz

XX ILLUSTRATIONS rACntO PARK

1. Point where ram was killed, July 19 52

2. Point where ram was killed, July 23 52

3. Point where bear was killed, July 16 52

Carl Rungius sketching the ram 62

"They were on the west face of a high rugged mountain,"

August 2 7^

Osgood and Rungius 72

"He dropped in his tracks," August 2 76

"Selecting the grayest, I shot him through the middle of the

body," August 2 76

"I quickly selected the one with the largest horns and offhand

shot him through the heart," August 2 76

"A fine old veteran of the crags and peaks," August 2 . . . 76

Breaking the hunting camp 78

Travelling down Coal Creek 78

"Stood motionless on the crest, gazing at the country below" . 83

MacMillan Mountains from the MacMillan River 90

"The peaks and ridges of Dromedary Mountain were visible

in the distance " 90

"Beaver cutting" on bank of MacMillan River 92

Beaver house in eddy of MacMillan River 92

Selous and the calf moose, September 2 98

Large beaver house in a beaver lake of MacMillan River,

September 3 104

Selous towing the canoe, September 6 104

Selous's bull, shot September 8 108

"We endured it sitting under the shelter," September 14 . . . 108

The summits of the Selwyn Rockies, September 16 no

Selwyn Rockies, September 18 no

ILLUSTRATIONS xxi

PACING PAGE

"The cow appeared to resent my nearer approach," September ii ii6

First ram killed, September 19 128

Second ram killed, September 19 128

Ewe killed, September 19 128

"I took several photographs," September 19 132

Jack Barr and his dogs 142

Carl Rungius and his big moose 142

Plateau Mountain in August 150

MacMillan River and Dromedary Mountain photographed from

the slope of Kalzas Mountain 150

Running through the ice in MacMillan River 150

Looking toward the Meade Glacier, June 17 171

Mrs. Hosfall taking in the salmon net 182

Nahanni House, July 22 190

Indian camp on bank of Pelly, July 20 . 190

The Hosfall family, 1909 190

Looking up the Lapie River, July 25 200

"The glories of the Pellys were spread out before me," July 27 200

" In front of them were piled precipice upon precipice " (colored

plate) 206

"He stopped long enough to receive a bullet in his heart,"

"He remained doubled up and almost suspended," July 29 . . 214

"The ram simply stiffened out without rising and died," July 29 216

"Niche in the side of a splintered wall," July 29 216

Camp in the Pellys, Tom JefFeries, July 28 218

"Standing in the smoke of the fire to rid himself of flies." Jefferies

under the shelter, August i 218

"After five jumps fell dead," August 2 226 xxii ILLUSTRATIONS

VAano PAOB

"I suddenly stepped forward . . . and pressed the bulb,"

August 3 230

"The big dark one was leading. He fell dead to my shot."

August 6 242

"He was the whitest of all and I killed him in his tracks,"

August 6 242

"Finding him among the willows, almost at the foot," August 7 244

Ewes seeking shelter from approaching storm (colored plate) . . 251

Towing up the Ross River, August 23 260

Head of Provost Canon. Big rock at right where accident happened 260

Lewis Lake. Direction — south-west, August 29 264

Field Lake, Mount Sheldon, August 29 264

"Sheldon Lake at the foot of Mount Sheldon which towers up

from its shore," August 31 266

"Time had fashioned the precipice walls in thousands of fantastic shapes," September 4 272

"A vast ampitheatre of perpendicular walls falling more than

3,000 feet to a lake of sapphire blue," September 4 . . . 272

Camp at foot of Mount Riddell, September 6 274

Indian cache near a bar of the Ross River, September 8 . . . 274

The Rose Mountains, July 20 278

Mr. Rose and his cabin, September 12 278

"Dropped almost at my feet," September 17 284

JefFeries cabin, September 19 284

Looking down on "Detour" of Pelly — ranges along MacMillan

in distance, September 23 286

Glenlyons toward south-west — Tay River mountains in distance,

September 23 286

Highest peaks of Glenlyons opposite Tay River, September 23 . 290

Glenlyons looking south from same point, September 23 . . . 290

Camp in Glenlyons, September 29 292

Ready to load the canoe. Glenlyons across river, October 2 . 292

Indian grave on bank of Pelly, 25 miles above mouth of Mac-

Millan, October 3 294

Trappers' line cabin on MacMillan Mountain, October 5 . . 294

Moose trail on top of the MacMillan Mountains, October 5 . 294

Junction of MacMillan and Pelly Rivers as seen from top of

MacMillan Mountain, October 5 296

MacMillan Mountains, October 5 296

Plate illustrating distribution of sheep in areas indicated on map 299

MAPS lACINO PACK

Map of Coal Creek, showing author's hunting camp in the

Ogilvie Rockies 4

Map of MacMillan River, showing author's hunting camps . . 84

Map of Ross River, showing author's hunting camps, including

that in Pelly Mountains 178

Map of Yukon Territory, adjacent portions of Alaska, British Columbia, and North-west Territories, showing distribution of sheep according to their colors 299

THE OGTLVIE ROCKIES

To sit on rocks, to muse o'er flood and fell. To slowly trace the forest's shady scene, Where things that own not man's dominion

dwell.

And mortal foot hath ne'er or rarely been; To climb the trackless mountain all unseen, With the wild flock that never needs a fold; Alone o'er steeps and foaming falls to lean; This is not solitude; 'tis but to hold Converse with Nature's charms, and view her

stores unroll 'd.

— Byron.

Chapter I

The mountain sheep of America are among the noblest of our wild animals. Their pursuit leads the hunter into the most remote and inaccessible parts of the wilderness and calls into play his greatest skill and highest qualities of endurance.

My first experience with sheep was in northern Mexico, where they dwell among the isolated groups of rugged mountains that rise abruptly from the great waterless deserts — deserts beautiful in their wealth of color, weird in the depth of their solitude, impressive in their grim desolation. It was there that I became fascinated by the exhilaration of the sport of hunting the wild sheep, and dominated by the desire of following them in other lands.

I was familiar with what had been written about the white sheep, Ovis dalli, of Alaska, and the darkest of the American sheep, Ovis stoneiy of the Stikine water-shed in northern British Columbia; and when in 1901 still another form of sheep, Ovis fannini, was described from the ranges of the Canadian Rockies in Yukon Territory — an ammal with a pure white head and gray back — I decided to explore for it if the chance ever offered. Indeed, so little was known about the variation, habits, and distribution of the wild sheep of the far northern wilderness, that my imagination was impressed by the possibilities of the results of studying them in their native land. There was, besides, the chance of penetrating new regions, of adding the exhilaration of exploration to that of hunting, and of bringing back information of value to zoologists and geographers, and of interest to sportsmen and lovers of natural history.

The opportunity came in the summer of 1904. A party was organized composed of the artist, Carl Rungius, who has so faithfully painted our large game animals in their true environment; Wilfred H. Osgood, of the Biological Survey, a trained naturalist of reputation, and myself.

Late in June we sailed from Seattle and proceeded over the well-known route to Dawson, purchasing provisions for the trip in Skagway, and going over the White Pass and Yukon Railway to Whitehorse, where we took one of the large river steamers to Dawson. Learning that the game in those parts of the Ogilvie Rockies east of Dawson, at the head of the Klondike River, had been disturbed by winter hunting to supply meat to the Dawson market, we decided to go to the head of Coal Creek, which has its source in the heart of an unknown part of the Ogilvies, and enters the Yukon about sixty miles below Dawson.

We purchased six horses together with packing equipment, and secured the services of two men, Charles Gage and Ed Spahr, to accompany us as packers. After several days of tedious delay, it was finally announced that the small steamer Prospector would start down river at

5 p. M., July 7. In due time, therefore, we loaded our horses and outfit on the boat, put on our hunting clothes, and went aboard just before the Prospector pulled out from the wharf on schedule time. We soon passed through picturesque parts of the river where it narrows and runs between high cliffs, and farther down between high rolling ridges on each side, until at 8.30 p. m. we reached Forty Mile. Going ashore, we tried to get information from some of the residents as to the abundance of game and the possibility of travelling up Coal Creek. It was freely given, but conflicting. After a short stop at Forty Mile we left with a vague idea that it would be best to follow up the main branch of the creek and push on till we found the sheep country. We soon reached the mouth of Coal Creek, six miles below, tied up to the bank, unloaded our horses and outfit, and erected our tents on a high bank close to the water.

One of the North-west Mounted Police was located there, living in a tent, doing his own cooking, and remaining practically inactive until the fall, when the river is closed to navigation. He was there to police the coal mines and keep a check on all people passing down the river who had not reported at Forty Mile. Though this practice stopped soon after, during the first years of the rush into the country, the North-west Mounted Police, distributed at intervals along the Yukon River, took the names and destinations of all people passing in boats, summoning them to the shore if necessary, and kept a fairly good record of all who were travelling in the country.

Coal had been discovered a few years before, twelve miles up the South Branch of Coal Creek; and two years previous to our arrival, a mine was opened, coal chutes and boarding-houses for men were erected at the mouth of the creek, and a narrow-gauge railroad was loosely constructed up to the mine. During the summer a small steamer kept hauling barges of coal to Dawson to accumulate it there for the winter supply of fuel.

At this point the Yukon River bends in a sharp curve and is surrounded on all sides by fairly high mountains, which may be the cause of the constant rain at that exact spot, even when the sky is clear a few miles above and below. Not more than a mile below, a spur of the main interior range rising about three hundred feet above timber-line, extends nearly down to the river, and sheep are said sometimes to wander there in winter. I heard that there was a well-defined sheep trail on the top. Game is very scarce everywhere along the Yukon, but occasionally a black bear is seen, and in that particular vicinity I learned that one had shortly before appeared on the opposite side of the river; also that two had been killed a few miles up the railroad. Moose at times are seen along the river, and just below Coal Creek is a canon, extending down between ridges from the mountain spur, where a few days previous the Indians from Forty Mile had killed a cow moose. By invitation I slept in the tent of Mr. Jones, the policeman; but before retiring we had tried to get some information about the interior country from various men employed on the railroad and at the mines, only learning, however, of one point where we should leave the railroad to reach the main branch of Coal Creek.