Journal of Thomas Dean. A voyage to Indiana in 1817.

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• "^ Journal of

AN ACCOUNT OF A JOURNEY TO INDIANA IN 1817.

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Part I

Voyage from Deansboro, N. Y., to Niagara River

Oneida Creek, N. Y., May 31st, 1817, 6 o'clock a. m. Wind N.W., and cloudy, with some rain. All hands at work fitting for the voyage. At 15 minutes of 10 a. m. Paul Dick arrived and joined our company, and 20 minutes past 11 his father, Thomas Dick, came to see us; 30 minutes past 1 p. M. ran down Oneida Creek with Burlingame and several others on board. Ran out of the creek onto the lake and made sail, the wind blowing a gale. We made two or three tacks, but the lake was so rough that we did not gain more than one or two miles and it was thought best to run back into the creek and wait until the wind abated. Paul Dick and I went to Burlingame's, about three-quarters of a mile from the boat, and lodged; the rest of the company lodged in an old house or in the boat.

June 1st. At 3 a. m. P. Dick and I started to meet our company and all set about getting ready to start. It was clear and very frosty; some ice. We drank some chocolate, ate some bread, all aboard, and went down the creek to the lake and took leave of Thomas Dick. Set sail at 6 a. m. ; the wind very light, and from the W.S.W., so that we had to row. At 12 o'clock, opposite Roderdam, we were rowing along at a good rate, not expecting any shoal ; I was steering when I discovered rock, and we had but just time to stop our

12 DEANSBORO to NIAGARA headway and put about. The water on the shoal was not more than a foot deep. I considered it fortunate that we had not a fair wind and going very fast or we might have injured our boat, for we had no idea of there being any such shoal water in or near the middle of the lake. At 2 p. M, we landed on Frenchman's Island and took dinner. It is a beautiful island, well timbered, containing thirty or forty acres. At 5 p. m. we got under way with head winds, but ran down the Oneida River to the head of Cognoy Rift and put up at Sclos Billos.

June 2d. We breakfasted on eels and put our baggage on board. The boat drifted around on a root, and in getting on board she rocked on it and it punched a hole in her larboard bow, on the second strap from the garboard, about one and a half inches in diameter. We immediately discovered the leak and ran down the rift, intending to go to Three River Point, but she took in water so fast that we had to go on shore, unload all our things, draw the boat up and put in a graving piece. We repaired our boat, loaded her, and embarked about 11 o'clock, went down to Three River Point, stopped and made some inquiry about the river. We then passed down to Three River Rift and took on a pilot, giving him one dollar to run the Rift. Then we continued down to Six Mile Creek and stayed all night. In the morning we ran down to the Falls of Oswego, took out our load, hired a pilot to run over the falls for two dollars, hired our goods carried over for two dollars, and employed a pilot to pilot us to Oswego for two dollars more. We arrived there about 5 o'clock p. m. The wind being fair, we concluded to load our stores and put out into the lake, although

DEANSBORO to NIAGARA 13 it was cloudy. We put out to sea about 7 o'clock p. m. on the 3d of June and ran all night. The next day we put into Pultneyville. We ran on to Genesee River, arriving there at half past 7 p. m. On the 5th and 6th of June we lay there wind-bound until about 5 p. m. Then we ran up to the inlet of Long Lake, about four miles, where we stayed all night, and in the morning put out and sailed up to Braddocks Bay, thence to Sandy Creek, about seven miles, and there we put up for the night.

June 8th. We started early in the morning with a fair wind, and clear and pleasant, and put into Eighteen Mile Creek, obtained some bread and milk, then stood on to Twelve Mile Creek and camped. About fifty-one miles this day.

June 9th. Started with a fair wind. It rained very hard. We stopped at Niagara at about 12 o'clock and went to view the garrison at the fort, then put up the Niagara River to Lewiston.

PART II Voyage from Niagara to Lake Chautauqua

June 10th. We went to get our boat hauled over the portage, but could not. I crossed over to Queenstown, Canada, to get it over the portage, returned and crossed with the boat and agreed with A. Brown to take it, with the baggage, for six dollars. I entered the boat at the collector's of&ce for 50 cents.

June 11th. We loaded our boat and baggage onto two wagons at about 10 a. m. and passed slowly along with the boat and baggage. Had a very poor ox team to draw the boat. Thomas Isaac and I, walking a little ahead, went to see the famous falls of Niagara and then met the teams. The rest of the company then went to view the falls. We arrived at Chippawa about 5 p. m. without much difficulty or damage. Thomas and I began to unload, and when the rest of the company came up we ran the wagon into the river and launched the boat. We examined our baggage and dried some of it, much of it being all wet with the heavy rains that had fallen. It is a very fine day and dried up the mud smartly, the wind blowing high from the northwest. We ran up the river about two miles and put up at Mrs. Holden's.

June 12th. A fine, pleasant morning. We started for Buffalo and had a strong opposing current. We soon crossed over to the west channel and took dinner on Grand

Island. Kept to the west side of the island, on the west side of the river, until we arrived at the ferry opposite Black Rock, where we crossed, and arrived about 1 7 minutes past 7 p. M. and put up for the night.

June 13th. In the morning we had a tight pull to get up the rapids, the wind being ahead. We took breakfast on the beach not far below Buffalo and arrived at Buffalo about 9 A. M., where we stopped, received and read letters, and wrote home. We discovered our boat leaked more than usual ; drew her out on the beach and found we had started one of the nails in the seam on the bottom, and repaired it. We put our things on board at about 8 p. m., returned up the creek by the town, where we took up lodgings.

June 14th. We found all things safe, although there had been a hard wind and a heavy shower of rain in the night. We took breakfast at Buffalo, transacted our business, obtained some provisions, etc., and put out to sea 15 minutes past 12 o'clock. It rained hard, and but little wind. There were two schooners and a sloop which went out at about 30 minutes past 7 a. m. We passed along, using our oars, until about 2 p. M., when we came in sight of the three vessels standing on near our course. The wind began to blow a good breeze, and about 6 p. m. we came up with one of the schooners, called the "Buffalo Packet," the other vessels standing to the west. We spoke to the packet and found she was going to put into Cattaraugus Creek, where we intended to make a harbor. We passed the packet and ran into the creek about 35 minutes past 7 o'clock and took lodging, all being wet. We came about thirty miles. The schooner came in soon after us with several passengers, who were all wet as well as us. Some of them very seasick. We had a good harbor in this creek. The captain of the packet informed me that he intended to put out for Shaddocks Bay between 12 and 1 o'clock in the morning, so we concluded to start early to be in his company.

June 15th. All hands on board and we got under way 40 minutes past 3 a. m. and left the harbor. We soon caught up with the packet, which had sailed some time before us. At about 5 o'clock there came a very thick fog, so that we could see but a little way ahead, and we steered southwest and by south until about 30 minutes past 6 o'clock, with a light breeze from the N.N.E. ; then the wind began to increase, the fog soon disappeared, we found we had gained on the schooner while running in the fog. The wind blowing a good breeze, we soon overhauled her near the bay where we intended to make harbor. Supposed there was a creek to put into and get breakfast, but when we arrived in Shaddocks Bay we found there was no creek there, and the wind blew so hard and the swells ran so high that we could not beat out of the bay again. We out with the anchor which we had made at Oneida Creek. This was the first time we tried to use it, so we did not know how it would hold, and now if it gave way we must go ashore. Though it was not rocky, yet the surf ran so high that it is probable it would injure our boat; but as high as the swells were, our anchor held, so that we did not drag more than four or five rods. We kept an oar out at the stern to keep the boat straight with the wind and she rode out the gale very safely, though it made R. Fowler and S. Dick very seasick, it not being for the first time. I borrowed the boat belonging to the schooner to come along side and take Sarah Dick, Betsy Isaac, Jacob Dick, with Charles, on shore, and left Thomas Isaac, Paul Dick, and myself to manage the boat as well as we could. R. Fowler was so sick that he did not feel like doing anything, and instead of having a warm breakfast, which we expected, when we put about to run in, we were glad to take a piece of bread and raw pork, which relished very well with me. This place is about iifteen miles from the Cattaraugus Creek. When the wind abated, we got all on board, started for Portland, about fifteen miles farther up the lake, where we arrived about 1 o'clock p. m. It was with some difficulty that we found the harbor of Portland; not knowing the shore, we ran a great way out of our course to search the shore for fear we would run by the harbor, and then we would have found no harbor until we came to Erie, The shore of the lake, most of the way, was perpendicular rocks, so that there are but few good harbors. We hauled our boat up on the beach as far as we could and took lodgings.

June 16th. R. Fowler proposed to go across the portage to the Chautauqua Lake and then down the Ohio River. Jacob Dick and Paul Dick joined with him. Thomas Isaac and I were for keeping up the lake, but we consented to the voice of the majority, although it was much farther, but they said it was safer. We consented. Paul and Rudolphus went out and engaged two men with teams to take our boat and baggage across, for which we were to pay five dollars each. We loaded our boat and baggage, went about two miles to the four corners of Portland, and put up for the night.

July 1 7th. We started with the teams and passed a very rough, hilly road filled with stumps, roots, and crossways over the land between the waters of Lake Erie and the Chautauqua Lake. The country was thinly settled and in some parts pretty good, and well timbered with some of the finest chestnut trees that I ever saw. We arrived at Mayville about 1 o'clock p. m. It is a small village on the northwest shore of Chautauqua Lake. The lake has very handsome shores and is well stocked with different kinds of fish. We left Mayville, went down the lake about sixteen miles against the wind, and put up on the northeast side of the lake at the house of a man by the name of Chene, where there was very good land with heavy timber.

PART III Voyage from Chautauqua Lake to Pittsburgh

June 18th. We started with a head wind and ran down to the rapids, where there are mills, with locks for boats to pass through. We went through them, and about one-half mile below we went to the village of Jamestown to get meat, bread, and cheese, but I could obtain no bread, nor pork under 30 cents per pound, and 18 cents for poor new skim milk cheese. It being about 12 o'clock, and having eaten very little this day, we had to dine on potatoes, crackers, and a fish which I bought for 9 cents. In the morning, being refreshed by our frugal meal, we embarked down the Chautauqua Creek, a small navigable stream with a quick current and a smooth bottom. It is fortunate for us that the waters are high at this time, or we could not go down, our boat drawing about twenty-one inches of water, and in a dry time there is not more than nine inches or a foot of water in the creek. We took in three passengers, one of whom was a good pilot, and we went down the stream, which was very crooked, with swift current, which made it difficult to sail. We passed down to the Casdaga Creek six miles, and there our pilot left us. The river was larger and the current very moderate, the bank low and the flats large. We passed down ten miles and came into the Conewango Creek, which is a considerable stream. It comes in from the northeast, and there we put up at Captain Dollof's for the night. We obtained four quarts of milk, half a loaf of bread, and one pound of butter, of which we made a supper. Part of a bed was put on the floor for three of us to lie on. All were wet, there having been very heavy showers, which lasted almost all the afternoon.

June 19th. We called for our bill and the reply was $2, which astonished me. We reasoned with him until the avaricious wretch was satisfied with $1.50. We then proceeded down the river, which was very crooked, but with a gentle current and a deep channel. The banks are low and frequently overflown by high water, and the soil is rich, though rather low for cultivation to advantage. We went about six or seven miles, when we came to a small stream called Still Water, which river is from seven to fourteen feet deep, and the passage easy to the rapids, which are about twenty miles, where we stopped and took breakfast on our scanty collection of food at the dam about half past 1 o'clock. We had two pigeons, a pheasant, and a small groundhog, which we picked up in our passage of twenty miles down the river this morning, not being able to purchase either bread or meat within the distance which we came. After refreshing ourselves, we took in a pilot from the mill to run us over the dam, which he easily did, and at the mill we took in three passengers for Warren, Pa., one of whom was an Indian by the name of Henry O'Bail, son of the famous chief called Complanter, who acted as pilot. After the shower we went on toward Warren. We had a strong current and a crooked channel for eight and one-half miles to Warren, where we arrived about 7 p. m. Here we obtained some bread, meat, and butter, though at an extravagant price. We took up lodgings for the night at the inn.

June 20th. We left Warren at about 5 a. m. with our own company and ran down the river to Broken Straw, about twelve miles, a stream which comes in from the northwest; then passed down about thirty-four miles, went on shore and fried bacon and boiled potatoes, not having bread sufficient. We went on board and ate our dinner. We got some wet, there being a very heavy shower, which our sails did not completely shelter us from. We started two or three deer from the river, which R. Fowler went in pusuit of, and got a chance to shoot at one, but did not hit him. We saw them again, when J. and Paul Dick went in the chase, but did not kill any. Night drawing near, and having the appearance of rain, we went down the river with our oars at work. We soon saw another deer in the river, which we fired at, but did not get. It became foggy and I expected rain, so we ran down to Oil Creek, about seven or eight miles farther, and put up about a mile and a half from the place where the Seneca oil is found on the waters of the creek, but the water is so high now that the place where the oil issues from the earth could not be seen. We came down the river today fifty-three miles, although we had a strong head wind through the day.

June 21st. We left Oil Creek at 10 minutes past 5 a. m., went down seven miles to Franklin, at the mouth of French Creek, ran in there to get some bread, when it began to rain, and we took breakfast. When the rain abated we started about 10 A. M. and passed down the river. There were but few houses, all small log cabins, and the inhabitants appeared to live by hunting, fishing, and the few shillings they could get from the pockets of the travelers. Lee, the landlord where we took breakfast, informed me that there were large settlements in the country back from the river, but there was but very little grain raised ; that the land had a very good appearance, but did not produce well after two or three crops. He said that the frost had injured their crops very much for some time back. After the rain stopped we went on down the river with the current, helped by our oars, to a place called Miller's Eddy, about fifty-eight miles, and put up at an unfinished house.

June 2 2d. Started about half past 4 a. m., ran down the river, procured some bread on shore, took breakfast, continued on down, and passed Armstrong, a small village on the south side of the river. It is the county seat of that county, forty-five miles above Pittsburgh. We put into shore and stopped at a house two miles below Freeport. From there, passed on down to a place called Mechanicsburg, on the south side of the river. It consisted of several small houses, most of them abandoned by the inhabitants, four families only living there, and they so poor they could afford us no relief or lodging. It rained very hard. We crossed over the river and found poor lodging on the opposite shore, where we put up, having come about seventy-two miles. We were now within about ten miles of Pittsburgh.

June 23d. We started about half past 4 a. m. and ran down the river, passing three arks with families going down the river; arrived in Pittsburgh about 6 a. m., where we put in for provisions and to get breakfast. I wrote home, and after breakfast our curiosity surpassed our anxiety to proceed, so we went to see some parts of the town, the steam factories, viz.: a saw mill, grist mill, nail factory, rolling mill, and the Flint Glass Works, which was not then in operation, but we went into the warehouse, where we saw some of as good glassware as is brought from England or India. We also went to see the flour mills. The town is well situated on the point, but it might be very considerably improved in beauty of appearance. Their manufactories are most interesting and surprising. Not getting our supplies and not satisfying our curiosity, we were not yet ready to start until about 6 p. m., and then we concluded to put up for the night at our landing place at Shepherd's. I would be glad to give a more particular description of Pittsburgh, but time will not permit.

24 PITTSBURGH to CINCINNATI

PART IV Voyage from Pittsburgh to Cincinnati

June 24th. We started 30 minutes past 3 a. m. from Pittsburgh. The morning was very foggy and continued thick until about 8 a. m. We passed Big Beaver, a stream putting into the Ohio, and then sailed on with a gentle and smooth current. Took breakfast on board, then ran down to Steubenville, where we went on shore to get fire, some bread, etc. We had not time to take a view of the town as we wanted to, because we were rushing to pass on our journey down to Big Grave Creek, making 112 miles this day traveled.

June 25th. In the morning it was foggy, but cleared off, and we ran down to Beaver Creek, which we called eight miles by the current, then went down, passing several islands and many points, until we came below States Creek, then running on our oars and by the current until we came

to the . We put in and stayed all night near an

island called the Three Brothers.

June 26th. Started at 5 a. m. and ran down to Marietta, about ten miles. We put in there for breakfast and water, waiting until it stopped raining. We passed the Little Kanawha River 45 minutes past 4 p. m. and then went down to Blennerhassett Island, where we went on shore and

PITTSBURGH to CINCINNATI 25 saw a beautiful landscape with very fertile soil. The elegant buildings that formerly stood on it were consumed by fire, and their chimneys were only to be seen from a distance. We passed by Little Hockhocking and then Big Hockhocking on the right side at 1 5 minutes past 7 p. m. We passed Belleville at 45 minutes past 9 p. m. and concluded to run during the night, it being dark. We ran all night, but had little chance of seeing much of the shore or many of the islands we came upon. Forty-one miles today by daylight.

June 27th. Before day we passed Letart Rapids and down by the Great Kanawha River and so down by Gallipolis, running on all day and all night, passing several villages and tributary streams.

June 28th. We passed the Canseonnique Creek about 5 A. M. and down to Lime, or Mayswell Stone, at 5 p. m., where we got more provisions. This is a handsome town on the left side of the river. From here we passed down to a small village called Ripley, about ten miles below Limestone Creek, where we put up, being about 248 miles below Marietta. I was unwell, having taken cold by being out the night before and lying in the heat of the sun the next day.

June 29th. We left Ripley in the morning and passed by Augusta about 10 a. m., arriving at Cincinnati at 9 p. m., where we put up for the night.

26 CINCINNATI to WABASH RIVER

PART V Voyage from Cincinnati to the Mouth of the Wabash River

June 30th. In the morning we expected to wash our clothes and spend the day at Cincinnati. We ran two nights to get there, but not finding a convenient place for washing, we took a view of the steam mills, town, etc. I went to look for Robert Hunt, but found he had moved eight miles from town, so I was not able to see him. We concluded to take in provisions, etc., and start down the river, and after taking a preliminary sail on the river with four passengers and after passing General Harrison's Seat, came to Lawrenceburg at about 9 p. m., twenty-nine miles below Cincinnati. We expected to put up here for the night, but could not get lodgings to our satisfaction. We left three of our passengers, but one continued with us to the Falls of the Ohio. We started at about 10 and ran all night.

July 1st. We passed Port Williams on the Kentucky River in the morning, and stopped at West Port to take dinner, then ran down to New London and put up for the night. On the 2d we went to Louisville, arriving at 8 p. M. Here we obtained lodgings, being about 180 miles from Cincinnati. This is a handsome town of Kentucky.

CINCINNATI to WABASH RIVER 27

July 3d. I wrote home, and started about 9 a. m. to run down to the falls. We passed over them without any difficulty; nothing to be seen of them except a strong current and a ripple on the right side near shore. Passed Salt River about 3 p. M. In the evening we put up about 8 p. m., Jacob Dick being unwell.

July 4th. We continued our voyage, Jacob Dick being some better. We sailed all day down the pleasant current of the Ohio and only went on shore to get some vegetables, etc. Not finding a suitable place to lodge, we concluded to run all night, and so passed on throughout the night.

July 5th. We continued our voyage until we stopped for breakfast, then ran down to Anderson's Ferry, put in, and crossed over to the opposite shore to Troy to get good water. In the evening ran down about three miles, and with some difficulty got lodging on a floor.

July 6th. We passed down eight or ten miles and took breakfast on the shore near a house where a woman had a young child. After breakfast we started with a good breeze, though ahead, and beat down to the Yellow Banks ; passed the village at that place about 3 p. m., but not stopping. We continued for about two miles and put in shore to be sheltered from a very heavy shower which we were threatened with. Here we obtained our dinner at the house of a very hospitable gentleman of Kentucky, and there being a very heavy storm of rain, wind, and thunder, we put up for the night with him.

July 7th. We ran down to near the Frenchman's or Three Mile Island, about fifteen miles, and put in for breakfast. We found the people in this place, as well as in many other

28 CINCINNATI to WABASH RIVER places where we stopped, very poor. There were no seats or furniture in the house, so we cooked our food, took it on board, and ate as we sailed. The wind became fair and we ran down before a light breeze to below Pigeon Creek, then beat down about two or three miles to the Red Bank at the village of Henderson, Ky., where we stopped at about half past 8 p. M. After some time I found poor lodgings for our company. We thought of walking out to see a steam mill, but in the morning we concluded not to.

July 8th. We understood that the steam mill would not be in operation through the day, and finding the poverty of the place to be so great, we concluded to cleanse our boat and proceed, for we could get neither flour, meal, milk, butter, nor cheese, and our stock was small. We thought best to run down farther, although we had not eaten since we took breakfast at Frenchman's Island. After our boat was cleansed, we reloaded, passed down the river five or six miles to the place of a wealthy planter of Kentucky, who had many slaves, from one of whom we bought some onions and cucumbers. The gentleman was very polite to us and furnished us with greens, squashes, etc. He had a fine plantation and about one hundred slaves in different parts of his lands. We started about half past 11 a. m., went down the river and took our breakfast as we sailed. The wind was ahead, as it usually was. We sailed till near sundown, then went on shore near Straight Island, made a fire, and cooked our supper. We concluded to run down to the mouth of the Wabash in the night. The boatswain and I took the watch, the rest turned in about 10 p. M., and we went to near the head of Wabash Island. We concluded to go

CINCINNATI to WABASH RIVER 29 ashore for fear of passing that river unnoticed, as it was very dark. We called all hands and ran ashore, made fast to some willows about 1 a. m., and lay down to sleep on the boat.

July 9th. We started early and ran down by the island to the mouth of the Wabash River. The description by the Navigator of the river, etc., published in 1817, I cannot vouch for. I am convinced it is not correct in all respects, viz.: at the Frenchman's or Three Mile Island it appears to be erroneous, but according to his statement it is 1,003 miles to the mouth of the Wabash River, where we arrived this morning at 6 a. m. Here we turned into the river and passed up four or five miles and landed for breakfast about 9 A. M. As far as we have come we find the Wabash to be a fine river about 250 or 300 yards wide, with a gentle current, though it is expected that the current will be stronger as we ascend. In passing the waters of the Ohio it was not so much to our disadvantage that it rained nearly every day, for it raised the river fifteen or twenty feet above low water mark, which made it safe and easy passing down.