The story of Lancaster: old and new; being a narrative history of Lancaster, Pennsylvania, from 1730 to the centennial year, 1918

Front matter

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Introduction

Much has been written of the early history of Lancaster city, but it remained for the present octogenarian author to unearth facts of interest, of no httle moment, hitherto unpubhshed. In his assiduous researches he uncovered records to which previous historians apparently had not access. The result is a volume that contributes valuable addition to the store of local historical chronology.

The work, however, is not a mere insipid recital of dates with their associate incidents. With the historical fact is woven a narrative in which liberal scope is given to the play of the imagination, sentiment and romance. The old life of the community is contrasted entertainingly with the new. Informative deductions are drawn therefrom, upon which the author, from time to time, philosophizes, basing his conclusions upon the varied experiences and analytical observations of a long life.

The narrative opens with an account of the establishment in Lancaster of the county seat, and continues through the colonial period down to the time of the city's incorporation. This period, when the government was administered by the Burgesses, is described with much detail that portrays the pictiu'esque and piquant flavor of the time. Instances in which the author finds praise worthy to be deserved, it is bestowed freely, and when censure is

IV LANCASTER: OLD AND NEW

felt to be warranted it is not withheld. Still, "the quality of mercy is not strained," but the reader will be gratified to discover that, in the unbiased judgment of the author, there is more to laud than to condemn.

Following 1818, when the city was granted its charter, the narrative continues through several administrations of the early Mayors, relating to the slow but soHd development of the municipality. This brings the record to a period within the author's recollection and affords him opportunity to indulge in reminiscences of his childhood, many incidents of which are vividly told.

Pubhshed on the advent of the city's centennial anniversary, the volume has special timeliness and it will occupy its just place as one of the outstanding features of the celebration. But as an epitome of the cardinal events in the pioneer days of this community, conspicuous for its share in the building of the State and Nation, it will serve a much larger purpose as a residuum of ready and permanent reference for all future time.

Perusal of the work wiU stimulate and foster local pride. As the author well says, too Httle is known by the present generation of the deeds of their sires, and the conmaunity that enjoys a heritage of history so abundantly rich in praiseworthy achievement as Lancaster, is lamentably lacking when it fails either in acquiring knowledge of the facts or in doing them reverence.

B. Ovid Musselman.

THE AUTHOR'S PREFACE

It was in the year 1905 that the chronicler issued his " One Hundred and Fifty Years of School History of Lancaster, Pennsylvania." This somewhat comprehensive work, having met with the hearty approval of all classes interested in our pubhc school system, naturally created a desire on the part of the compiler to follow it with a narrative of Lancaster as a municipality. Having gone through several histories of city and county, it soon became evident that they were intended as books of reference rather than to be read by the average reader, who has little time to leaf over five or six hundred pages in getting what might be had out of a smaller volume written in the shape of a narrative.

Three reasons may be given for entering upon this work at the age of four score, when most men are content to rest from their labors after a somewhat long, busy life. The first, that the chronicler was born in "Old Lancaster," in the year 1837; the second, to be kept busy, feeling that the secret of old age isn't so much that of years, as in keeping the mind employed, if not in a business sense, at least in a fine of work conducive to peace and contentment. In both of these, the chronicler has found the pleasm-e afforded as old age comes creeping on.

The third and all-important reason is yet to be

VI LANCASTER: OLD AND NEW

stated. For many years the writer had been looking forward to 1918, when the various city organizations might meet to arrange to celebrate, in a becoming way, the one hundredth anniversary of Lancaster, which dates back to 1742, when the townstead became a borough under the charter by Act of Assembly of the Province of Pennsylvania.

There was still one other reason for turning chronicler — a desire to aid in keeping the name Lancaster on the map, and where it might be seen by men with money to invest, on their way from the Pacific to the Atlantic, instead of going to either New York or Philadelphia for bargains. These, I knew, could be had right in my own home town, whether the passenger station remain where it is or be removed to the cut-off.

With the chronicler the town's future doesn't, after all, rest so much in the location of the station, as in the people themselves. Instead of showing the city's advantages as a center of intellectual worth and literary attainment, it has become a chronic habit with otherwise well-meaning people to discount their own home city on the principle that "'tis distance lends enchantment to the view."

The chronicler has ofttimes Hstened to praise showered upon the progressiveness of other towns when contrasted with their own home city of Lancaster. Conclusions are only too frequently hastily reached in prospective, of this or that city's inner life, without reflecting for a moment concerning its own worries and troubles.

Unless greatly mistaken, it is the rule rather than

AUTHOR'S PREFACE Vil

the exception for those who have resided in Lancaster for any length of time, to speak in the fullness of their hearts of our town's social, industrial and commercial Hfe, as not excelled by any other city in the union of states.

With a good many of our city's otherwise wellthinking people it is famiUarity breeds contempt; they know not, nor do they seem to care for Lancaster's past, and how, from a village of a few hundred it has gradually grown — if by slow strides — to its present status of over fifty thousand inhabitants, in possession of a heritage of which any people might well feel proud.

In order then to aid all interested in Lancaster's present and future, it shall be the chronicler's purpose to carry them back in imagination to the year 1742, and thence almost to the beginning of this twentieth century. We have reason to feel that, after having shown how "Old Lancaster" started, confronting almost insurmountable obstacles, there may be much to praise and httle to condemn.

If the author at times gives way to his inward emotions in passing judgment on prevailing conditions, he is only exercising a God-given right to discuss in his own way what he believes is for the city's present and future. We have ofttimes overheard men speak exultingly of progress made by this or that other municipality, and yet, when asked to contribute the widow's mite in making their own more healthy, beautiful and enterprising as a place in which to bring up their famihes, they go their way, saying, "As the town was good enough for vm LANCASTER: OLD AND NEW

our ancestors, it ought to be good enough for our descendants."

Possibly, in the union of states there may be other cities more desirable in which to dwell, but we doubt it I While it might be better, it will compare favorably with the great majority of other Pennsylvania towns of high or low degree. It shall be shown, and without maHce, that Lancaster didn't spring up over night hke a western mushroom town with more unoccupied space than can be covered with homes for a century to come. Of course, it may not suit everybody's whims and caprices, and yet where can be found a better class of dwellers than right here in the center of the richest agricultural county in America? If our local government doesn't suit those who vote "straight" and do the growhng on their way home from the polls, they have it in their power to change conditions. But the chronicler's experience, running back a good many years, is that, as a community, we chng too closely to our former habits and traditions. It should not be forgotten that, while we are not Hving back in the days of our forefathers, when young and old, rich and poor lived as happily together without strangers as with them, we have inherited some of their slow-going ways. But, as the reader shall in due time learn, these were not at all times a disadvantage. It may be within the recollection of many of our citizens to recall how, a third of a century ago, certain industrial cities of the State were thrown into a panic over the failure of a number of big concerns. At the time Lancaster, with its smaller industries, had met with few failures.

AUTHOR'S PREFACE ix

However, since the seventies, as a city we have become more Hberally disposed in throwing wide open the town's gates to all who may enter as law-abiding citizens in trying to make the city what it must eventually become — a "Greater Lancaster." But, after all, much depends on the meaning of this slogan, so frequently indulged in by the enthusiast without any clearly defined idea of its significance. A greater Lancaster doesn't by any means consist alone in spreading out beyond the town's limits of two miles square. While this may seem desirable, there is still much of "Old Lancaster" that needs looking after. No city is judged alone by the number of acres it covers. Men who have settled in Lancaster have done so largely on account of its home fife, its churches, and schools. Of course, without industries — and the more the better — the city of Lancaster would drift back to its former status when the town's people Hved largely by, for and within themselves.

At no time within the chronicler's recollection have the people as a class shown a greater spirit of progress than at the present day, in keeping the name Lancaster on the map. This is no newly coined term; it was in vogue during Revolutionary times when the patriotic men and women of "Old Lancaster" were in no way found wanting in their devotion to home and country.

In giving expression to another fine of thought, the average twentieth-century citizen has Httle time for what is old. Friends passed away are remembered but for a short time and then forgotten —

X LANCASTER: OLD AND NEW

unless, perchance, a legacy be forthcoming. Friendships such as existed when men wore crepe on the left arm for thirty days as a mark of respect for the departed, is considered a useless waste of the raw material, better suited for other purposes. Old landmarks are swept aside with impunity, even though one or the other be the homestead of this or that dweller in which he was born and reared.

We go in search of the almighty dollar, or, if not for the dollar, at least for the man who possesses it. Happily men of this kind are the exception. We verily beheve there is no other city in the union of states in which the well-to-do are more Hberally disposed in helping along every worthy cause than right here in "New Lancaster." This has been made only too clear when "calls" for charity and other beneficent purposes are made in a becoming spirit. As for our city's rehgious, moral and social life, it might be improved, and yet the chronicler is of the opinion that it will compare favorably with other cities in the forty-eight states of the Union.

However, it is really astonishing how Httle is known by the average person of how the town grew from an insignificant hamlet of a few hundred in 1730 to an empire surrounded by all the comforts which should in no way make us envious even of our neighbors hving on the opposite fines of our two miles square. But one of these days they wiU be knocking at the door for entrance to our municipafity to help to pay the city taxes! But why become envious? Health and wealth we have, some with more, others with less; and yet few have cause to

AUTHOR'S PREFACE XI

complain. Of one thing there isn't any shortage as in times gone by — filtered water — with an ample supply to be either used or wasted. Think of seven million gallons consumed daily by the fifty thousand of the city's inhabitants! The only way to account for the quantity consumed every twenty-four hours is that it has taken the place of such stimulants as used to be indulged in when "muddy" water drove a good many of the male population to resort to other means of quenching an inherent thirst. So let us be thankful for small favors, with larger ones in proportion.

And these larger ones are our churches, our schools, our Lancaster County Historical Society, the A. Herr Smith Memorial Library, the Young Men's and Young Women's Christian Associations, the Iris Club, Patriotic Daughters of the Revolution, Stevens Industrial School, hospitals, the Long Home and the Home for Friendless Children, not to overlook the ministerial workers, whom some people don't like for a way they have of meddling with their own private affairs. However, with a httle patience, they may learn of how the Burgesses had the town constable patrol the streets of the townstead, gathering in all tipplers and other violators of Acts of Assembly.

Of parks we have our Buchanan, Long, Rocky Springs and, last though not least, our WilHamson's — a "place of beauty and a joy forever," especially during the "good old summer time." In addition, we have our Chamber of Commerce, City Councils, with the hope that they may pull together instead xii LANCASTER: OLD AND NEW

of apart in making the coming Centennial of Lancaster's first century as a municipality a crowning success. We know that our system of street cars, the best in the country, will join with the Automobile Club in making the occasion a complete success. Then, with the Brunswick, Stevens, and others, not to forget our picture shows.

To have one's lot cast in such a favored spot as Lancaster, what more could any people desire? What more.^ Only that our schools do their part in creating a greater love for their county's history! What signifies a mind overcrowded with non-essentials .^^ Ask any high school boy the simplest question relating to the city of his birth, and the chances are his reply will cause you to think that much of our free-school education is out of proportion to its cost.

And here to conclude the preface, let all boys stand up and take notice! What all school boards have a right to expect for the money invested is to know that a substantial return follows in the making of good citizens, loyal in time of peace and equally loyal in time of war. Without the love of parents, home and country, all education counts for naught. This is equally apphcable to girls.

To finally conclude with what another has written, and which are the author's sentiments: "I love my home better than any other home, my city better than any other city, my county better than any other county, my State better than any other in the Union, and my country better than any other country in the world."

The Author.

Contents

Introduction iii

Author's Preface v

Part I Chapter

I. The Start of the Town in 1730 10

II. The Hearty Greeting of a Long-lost

Volume 22

III. Continuation of Complaints by the In-

habitants 34

IV. An Awakening of the Borough of "Old

Lancaster" to Higher Ideals 46

V. The Incoming of a New Era for the

Borough of Lancaster 60

VI. The Election of Burgess Edward Hand,

of Revolutionary Fame 72

VII. Recommendation by the Grand Inquest, Resulting in the Building of City

Hall .. 85

VIII. Opinion of City Sohcitor Slay maker as

to the Founder's Bequest 96

IX. The Estabhshing of a Bank in Lancaster 106

Part II

X. Lancaster a City after Seventy-six

Years of Burgess Rule 121

2 xiii xiv LANCASTER: OLD AND NEW

XI. The Incoming of the Railroad Through

Lancaster 141

XII. Our Venerated Grandmothers and

Granddaughters 160

XIII. Forcing the Water from the Old City

Mill into the City 176

XIV. The Ambition of Lancaster to Become

the Capital of the State 184

XV. Move for a Court of Appeal. The Taxpayers' Redress 197

XVI. Society of Master Mechanics for the

Poor Boys of Lancaster 207

XVII. First Move to Bring Gas Into the City

Very Discouraging 216

XVIII. Dismanthng of the Old Jail, and Building of the New Prison. James Buchanan's Bequest 226

XIX. Removal of Councils and Court from

the Court House to Fulton Hall 240

XX. Lancaster Jockey Club. Two-forty on

the Plank Road for Speeders 249

XXI. Changes in City Life are Like the

Changes of the Seasons 261

XXII. Nine Years of Municipal Rule of the

Much-respected George Sanderson. . 271 Index 283

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

24 51^

The Author Frontispiece

The Liberty Bell Facing p

Birds-Eye View of Old Lancaster ... " "

Postlethwait's Tavern "

James Hamilton, Founder of Lancaster, Pa "

West King Street about 1850 "

Conestoga Wagon 75

Old Colonial Fireplace 109

George Ross Mansion in Colonial Times 109

Old Jail, West King and Prince Streets 120

Modern Jail, as it Stood About 1852 120

North Queen Street After Completion of Railroad 154

General Lafayette Facing p. 164 *^

Old Buildings in Lancaster City ....

Old Water Works, Built 1836-7

Water Committee which Built Present Water Works

View of Water Works about 1900 . . .

The Old Court House

City Hall as it Appeared in 1855 . . .

Frankhn College

Franklin and Marshall College, Built

Center Square as it Appears Today .

x'

180 •^

180^

202^^

234 «/

244 '/

253 ,

256^

It was after penning the preface, happy in the thought of what the harvest was to be, that the ringing of bells and the blowing of whistles, came to remind the narrator that the only kind of a story worth the reading at the present time would be a war episode.

It was along at the time the first contingent of young soldier boys went their way to the Rio Grande, there to uphold the nation's flag of red, white and blue. Months had gone by with the danger of war with Mexico subsiding, when came the President's proclamation, calling the young men to do battle in a foreign land. Reaching the station, in paying a last tribute to the boys, surrounded by mothers and sweethearts, it was only the octogenarian's age that kept him from joining the ranks.

Meeting with a war veteran who had done service in the war between the States during the sixties of the past century, as we strolled our way to the author's "den," he had many a graphic story to relate of bygone days. Entering, and after glancing the preface over, he exclaimed, "You, my octogenarian friend, have undertaken a most commendable work in starting to write the story of your own native city, but you must not forget to pay homage to the boys who have enhsted to do honor to their Country's flag of red, white and blue."

And, as we sat discussing the war, in his versatile way he related the following episode, which the chronicler has decided to weave into his narrative as preliminary. And while it has little bearing on what is to follow in the story's evolution, it may be in keeping with these war times. And so, as it came it shall pass muster with no apology on the part of the octogenarian author. Bracing himself in his easy reclining chair, his visitor began:

"It was during my boyhood, away back in the middle fifties of the past century, that a lad of my own age was taken by his father on a packet-boat from Reigart's Landing by canal and tidewater to the Chesapeake, thence up through another canal to the Delaware River, on the opposite side of which stood the great big town of Phildelphy, as we lads called what has since become the city of 'Brotherly Love.'

"For days we stay-at-home lads hung round the wharf, awaiting the return of the packet-boat. And so, one July evening, from off the boat our visiting lad stepped, and so styhshly dressed that, for a time, none of us waiting lads knew him! This was owing to the fact that he had been taken to a Phildelphy tailor and fitted out in a brand new suit of red, white and blue; red jacket, white cap, blue trousers. Instead of kips, such as we poor lads wore, on his feet were a pair of calfskin with red tops! But what made us poor stay-at-homers so thumpin' mad was, that our daddies didn't have the big, round silver dollars to pay our way to Phildelphy on the 'Edward Coleman'! Putting our heads together we just made up our minds to dump him overboard into the Conestoga! But catching on to the trick, he took us all into the cabin, where he emptied his pockets of his Phildelphy goodies.

"Dropped him overboard! No, bless you, no! We dubbed him 'Red, White and Blue,' a nickname by which he was known until the breaking out of the great war of the sixties, when he enhsted to be dubbed the 'Little Color Bearer' in carrying the flag of red, white and blue.

"But not to get ahead of my story: It was only after patting him on the back that he began telling us town 'greenies' that he had stopped at the 'Bull's Head,' one of the biggest taverns in the town of Phildelphy with so many rooms that he couldn't count them. And as for the size of the town of Phildelphy, one of the constables had told him that it was so big that it couldn't be seen for the houses! This was such a puzzler that not one of us home-chappies could get into our heads by either the single or double rule o' three.

"At last, in deahng out another supply of 'loveletters,' he told us all about a visit he had made to 'Independence Hall,' to see what had been told him was the 'Liberty Bell.' But, oh glory, when he drew from his blue jacket pocket a picture of the 'bell,' and a likeness of George Washington, the Father of his Country, and who had never told a 'fib' even to his mother, somehow or other we all got to like our boy-traveler the more for having been to Phildelphy to see the 'sights'! But when one of our 'gang' asked him why he hadn't brought the bell with him so that we might take a good look at it, he only smiled one of his Phildelphy smiles, adding that we were too dumb to get in out of the rain. This silly question was asked because, at the time, the Liberty Bell to our minds didn't differ except in size from the one which hung high up in the belfry of the Lutheran steeple. Again, American history hadn't as yet been taught in the lower grades of schools.

"As further recalled after these many years, our boy visitor to Phildelphy hadn't a word to say of how, in 1776, the Bell had pealed out the glad tidings of how the colonies had freed themselves from Great Britain's rule. Altogether, to'- our untutored minds, it was just the kind of a bell as had called us boys to Sabbath school on each recurring Sunday.

"If, then," continued my veteran friend, with a twinkle of his deep-sunken eyes, " 'The Liberty Bell' was viewed by us lads more through ciuiosity than for the cause it represented, how different in this twentieth century! Why, only a year or two ago it was carried, draped with the Stars and Stripes, from the Atlantic to the Pacific and from the Lakes to the Gulf for the admiration of young and old.

"Ah, yes," he went on in his reminiscent way, "it took almost a century to revive the latent spirit of Revolutionary times; but now, wherever the *Beir goes, words of good cheer go forth for this emblem of our country's greatness and glory!" Rising to his feet, with outstretched arm he asked, "Where in the union of states hves there a young man who wouldn't buckle on the armor in defence of the cause

Courtesy Portland Oregonian

THE LIBERTY BELL for which the ' Liberty Bell ' stands, the preservation of the Stars and Stripes of the *flag' of red, white and blue?

"Do you know," he continued, resuming his seat, "that following the great war, I was given to thinking that patriotism was one of the lost virtues, but with war and rumors of war resounding in our ears, I am inclined to the opinion that the same spirit of patriotic devotion to our country and its flag is as dominant as in the year 1861 when the young soldiers marched in defence of an undivided union of states."

Drawing from his vest-pocket a sHp of paper on which was a miniature picture of the United States flag, he read the foUowing :

For right is right, since God is God,

And right the day must win, To doubt would be disloyalty,

To falter would be sin.

Glancing at his timepiece, he was about to depart when, hesitating, he went on uninterrupted, "You would scarcely believe that it was only a week ago that my boy-comrade of more than sixty years ago and your veteran friend went our way to the great big city of Philadelphia, not however, on a packet boat but in an automobile, both as octogenarians. Viewed through his narrow boy vision, its streets were lighted by the dim gas lamps, but now by electricity, making night ahnost as bright as day.

"It's a great age, isn't it?" he continued, as his voice grew stronger; "Why, think of it, seven decades ago, my young chummy rode in an omnibus; later, on this our visit, we took the underground tube from the Pennsylvania station to the Delaware. At the time referred to, 'Old Phildelphy' extended but a short distance west of the Schuylkill, beyond which even Fairmount Park was httle more than an unbroken wilderness — now a perfect ' Garden of Eden,' and wherein even Adam and his beloved Eve would be willing to rest content were they permitted to return to hve their lives over in this earthly Paradise."

Rushing to the window, my veteran exclaimed, "Whence comes the music reaching our ears? Oh, it's only the town-band saluting more of the young soldier boys on their way to the recruiting stations; but mark an octogenarian's predictions, it won't be many days until the letter carrier will be coming along with letters for sweethearts and dear old mothers!

"And now," resuming his seat, "have you ever seen a mother clasp her son to her bosom as he stepped over the threshold to go forth in patriotic devotion in support of home and country? This is what happened more than half a century ago, and may happen again. Who can tell?

" In mention of letter carriers," he resumed, "have you ever seen a fond, anxious-hearted mother standing at the front door, awaiting the carrier as he approaches with a bundle of letters, but none from her dear boy? But watch this same disappointed mother of the day previous, maybe, the morning following: If close by, you cannot fail to hear her exclaim, *At last, at last has come the long looked-for letter from my dear son!'

"Keeping within hearing distance, you may hear her as she breaks the seal and reads aloud page after page of how the absent one is getting along away down by the Rio Grande ! * Oh, oh ! And just listen, he writes his mother that he will soon be back with the other boys ! And where is " Daddy " ? Call him in.' And as he sits himself down with both ears wide open what more can he do but to give way to a deep sigh, as he recalls how he himself left his good old mother years before to join the Army of the Potomac at the sound of the drum and fife? "

Changing his trend of thought as he sat blowing the blue smoke of a stogy in graceful ringlets, he continued, "By some writer, it has been said that the boys of this twentieth century are actually dropping out of their home-nests before they can fly, and that scarcely one out of a hundred continues to live in the same house in which he was born. Taking unto himself wings, away he flies, leaving the old mother bird thinking how long it will be until her wandering child returns. But who, with a family of either boys or girls, would ever think of keeping them forever at home.^ And possibly for the reason that home is everywhere, and no longer as in ye olden time, embraced in one's city or county."

And before taking his departure, my octogenarian friend added, "It used to be said before the breaking out of the European war, that home was to be found on an Atlantic steamer. This must have been so before the 'Lusitania' went down, otherwise there wouldn't have been so many excursionists making these ocean palaces of splendor their migratory homes. But — but, when the war is over, all travel will be resumed."