The South American tour, a descriptive guide

Front matter

££FffiIGHT DEPOSHi

THE SOUTH AMER^ AN TQUR

NORTH PEAK OF MT. HUASCARAN, 21,812 FT.

Introduction

I congratulate Miss Annie S. Peck, the publisher of this book, and those who consult or read it, upon the preparation of a work of this character. Interest in Latin America is now so rapidly growing throughout all the world, and especially in the United States, that a descriptive guide-book of this kind regarding the regions commonly visited by tourists has become an actual need; such a work by Miss Peck is a practical and timely contribution to the literature of the day. There are few persons better qualified to write a book of this character. The remarkable explorations which Miss Peck has undertaken in the most difficult sections of Latin America, and the traveling she has done in all parts of it, not only have provided her with a vast fund of useful information about the countries of South America but give especial authority to what she writes. Her book contains in compact form an amount of definite information concerning the countries considered, which should place it in the forefront of works of this character.

While, of course, it is impossible for the Pan American Union, as an official organization, and myself, as its official head, to endorse in any way a particular book or accept responsibility for the statements and views it contains, it gives me real pleasure, from a personal standpoint, to express the hope that this work of Miss Peck will have a wide circulation and prove of decided help in promoting travel to and through the Latin American countries.

The Pan American Union, which, as readers of this book probably know, is the office of all the American republics — the United States and its twenty sister Latin American countries — organized and maintained by them for the purpose of developing commerce, friendship, better acquaintance, and peace among them all, is doing everything possible and legitimate to persuade the traveling public of the United States and Europe to visit the Latin American countries and become familiar with their progress and development. There is no vi

INTRODUCTION influence in the world that helps more to advance friendship, comity, and commerce among countries than travel back and forth of their representative men and women. Nearly every person who visits Latin America under the advice of the Pan American Union, upon his or her return, writes a letter expressing appreciation that this opportunity has been afforded of seeing these wonderful countries of the south.

In conclusion, I would observe that if those who may become interested in Latin America through reading Miss Peck's book desire further information about any or all of these republics, the Pan American Union will always be glad to provide them with such data as it may have for distribution.

John Barrett,

Director General of the Pan American Union.

Washington, D. C, U. S. A., October, 21, 1913.

FOR EVERY ONE

To all Americans both of the Northland and of the South this book with due modesty is inscribed, in the hope that by inciting to travel and acquaintance it may promote commercial intercourse, with the resulting ties of mutual benefit and respect: in the hope, too, that the slender cord now feebly entwining the various Kepublics may soon draw them all into more intimate relations of friendship ; at last into a harmonious Sisterhood, in which neither age nor size shall confer superior rights, but mutual confidence based upon the foundations of justice shall insure perpetual peace.

The opportunity is here improved to express my grateful acknowledgment of kindly assistance and attentions of diverse character, received throughout my travels from many of my own countrymen, from Englishmen invariably interested and ready to aid, and from the ever courteous and helpful Latin Americans: officials and private individuals, with members of my own sex. As a complete list of these would be too long I permit myself the mention of those only who are entitled to especial recognition, our Minister to Bolivia, 1910-1913, the Honorable Horace G. Knowles, and the Governments of Bolivia, Chile, and Argentina, without whose prompt and substantial aid this work would have been impossible. That its usefulness may be such as to convey to them a valid return is my earnest aspiration.

The indulgence of critics and of tourists is sought for errors (few, I trust) and deficiencies which may be discovered. These and other faults will have crept in on account of a preparation somewhat hurried that the book might earlier be of service, and from the impossibility of securing on some points exact and adequate information, in spite of diligent investigation and careful scrutiny of facts and figures.

Many items of interest and importance have been omitted lest the book should be too long. The selection of material it

vii viii

FOR EVERY ONE is hoped will be suitable to the general reader, though doubtless every one will find topics presented to which he is indifferent and others neglected which appear to him of greater consequence.

Hours have been spent in searching for the best authority as to widely different figures and even as to varying accents and spelling. In the absence of other information a few statements have with some trepidation been copied from authors whose recognized blunders have made their unverified observations appear questionable.

While a different statement made by some other, albeit notable writer cannot be taken as conclusive evidence of error, any just criticism or suggestion presented to the author will be gratefully received and considered with a view to incorporating it in a subsequent edition.

Contents

:haptee page I What the Tour Is — How and When to Go — What It

Costs 1

II The Voyage to Panama \ 6

Foreword

The South American Tour! "Como no?" "Why not?" as many Spanish Americans say when they wish to give hearty assent. Have you been around the world? Do you travel for pleasure or business? Whatever your object, whether your purse is full or you wish to fill it, the southern half of our hemisphere is a land which should not be ignored.

What is there to see ? May the journey be taken in comfort ? These things shall be revealed in detail after a few general facts have been presented.

Is the enjoyment of scenery the chief aim of your travel? With ease you may behold some of the finest in the world, — much more if you care to take a little trouble : snow clad mountains galore rising above 20,000 feet, dwarfing the Alps into insignificance, giants to be admired not only from afar as tourists in India gaze upon the Himalayas, but from nearer points, even from their very foot ; smoking volcanoes, cliffs more lofty than those of the Yosemite, wonderful lake scenery including the highest sheet of water (12,500 feet) where steamboats regularly ply; strange yet fascinating deserts ; wondrous waterfalls, one of these surpassing Niagara in height, volume, and beauty; magnificent tropical vegetation and forests, the highest railroads, the most picturesque and beautiful harbor of the world. All of these, with the exception of the great cataract, are easily accessible, and form a combination of scenic attractions unsurpassed in any portion of the globe.

Do strange people and cities interest you more? You may wander in towns old and quaint, containing buildings of centuries past, and in cities quite up to date growing with the rapidity of our own. In a few places Indians in peculiar garb may be seen by the side of Paris gowns and English masculine attire, in others an Indian with sandals, hood, and poncho would attract as much attention as on Broadway.

FOREWORD

Several cities have boulevards, parks, and opera houses finer than any of which North America can boast.

Do you care for ruins, antiquities? These also abound. Whole cities of the dead are there, and others where the new civilization rises above or by the side of the old. Temples, palaces, fortifications, ancient statues, mummies, and pottery may be cursorily admired or profoundly studied, and search may still be made for undiscovered monuments of a prehistoric past.

These countries rapidly advancing, with astonishing mineral and agricultural resources awaiting development, with railroads to be laid, with fast growing markets for almost every kind of merchandise, invite the trader and the capitalist to investigate hitherto neglected opportunities before it is too late.

Well informed as to what there is to see, the possible tourist is certain to inquire if the journey will be comfortable. Perhaps, indeed, the order of the questions should be reversed ; for few, I greatly fear, would be tempted to say "Let us go if the tour involved any hardship. Happily this is not the case. Though the Imperator, the Maurctania, and the Olympic do not yet sail in that direction, the names of several steamship lines which serve the traveler to Panama, or Buenos Aires are a guarantee of comfort and of sufficient luxury. The steamers elsewhere are commodious, having for the most part state rooms provided with electric fans, and satisfying all reasonable requirements. The railroads in the various countries have the usual equipment. The hotels, if one does not depart from the ordinary line of travel, will in general be found satisfactory, providing excellent food, good beds, etc., and in those cities where some little time should be spent meeting the wants of all except the ultra fastidious tourist.

If we do not sympathize with the cry "See America first," bearing in mind that America is the whole and not a fraction of the Western Continent, at least, when we have seen the Old World, instead of ever retracing our steps in familiar ways, let us seek the strange New World beyond the equator where a brief tour will reveal a multitude of scenes amazing and delightful, even to the experienced traveler.

Chapter 1

WHAT THE TOUR IS— HOW AND WHEN TO GO — WHAT IT COSTS

The South American Tour, rapidly becoming fashionable and popular, and about to be described, includes the most interesting and accessible portions of that continent, — its finest scenery, its greatest cities. A wonderful variety in the swiftly moving pictures prevents any dullness on the part of the intelligent traveler, who is ever kept alert for the continually fresh experiences of this remarkable journey.

Where. My tourist party will be conducted first to Panama, where the sail from ocean to ocean through an immense artificial channel awakens profound sensations of wonder and pride. The opportunity then to continue in the same vessel along the West Coast of South America, invaluable for commerce and for those on business bent, may prove a disadvantage to the pleasure traveler, by tempting him to pass with a mere glance the City of Panama and other spots worthy of observation.

On the Pacific side Peru, Bolivia, and Chile will be visited by every one : a few may make the side trip to Ecuador, — Guayaquil and Quito. In order to return along the East Coast one may complete the circuit of the continent by sailing down, through the Straits of Magellan, past Punta Arenas, and up on this side, or with the greater number may cross the Andes by rail, thus to reach the metropolis of South America, Buenos Aires. Thence, after, or if not including, an excursion to Paraguay and to the greatest of American waterfalls, the Iguassu, one may sail to Montevideo in Uruguay, from there to Brazil, returning from Rio de Janeiro directly to New York, or by way of Europe as preferred. Similarly the trip may be made from Europe by several lines of steamers direct to Panama, or more quickly by way of New York, with a return from Rio.

Altogether omitted from this itinerary are the countries on the northern shore of South America. Of these Colombia and Venezuela are better included in a West India trip. The Guianas by ordinary tourists are neglected.

Obviously the journey may be made in either direction: as above, or in reverse order; but unless the season of the year invites a change the former sequence should by all means be followed. Thus taken the journey is one of ever increasing interest, until its culmination in the delightful harbor and city of Rio de Janeiro. Not that Peru is inferior to Bolivia and Chile, or Buenos Aires to Rio, let me hasten to add ; each has its own peculiar charm ; but one who begins with the West Coast will find the entire journey far more enjoyable and impressive.

When one should go depends more upon when one wishes to leave home than upon the conditions prevailing in South America; also upon one's individual taste as to temperature. In brief, one may safely make the trip whenever it suits his convenience. Bearing in mind what so many seem to forget, that the seasons are reversed in the northern and southern hemispheres, one may leave home to escape either heat or cold, or to avoid March winds, as he may elect. In none of the countries to be visited is the variation between winter and summer so great as in the latitude of New York, nor is the tropical heat anywhere on the journey so intense as that on many days of every summer here.

Leaving the United States on a four months' tour at any time between the middle of November and the last of August, I strongly advise one to visit the West Coast first. During the remaining three months, one who dislikes hot weather might better begin with Brazil. In December, January, and February, the mercury at Rio is mostly in the eighties. In January I found it comfortable enough for summer weather, but I needed the ten degrees lower temperature of an earlier or a later season to make my visit absolutely ideaL

HOW AND WHEN TO GO

With a delightful climate during nine months of the year, the city at any time is perfectly healthy; since the yellow fever, formerly a dreaded scourge, was stamped out at Rio during the same period that this was accomplished in Panama.

Buenos Aires also may be more advantageously visited during the cooler weather, both because the opera and social festivities are then in full swing, and because one is likely to be more energetic for sight-seeing, of which there is much to be done. In Peru and Bolivia, on the usual route of travel it is never hot enough to be troublesome. Chile, in the central and most visited portion, is a trifle less agreeable during the southern summer than in spring or fall, especially on account of the dust, but this matters little for a brief stay.

Four months should be allowed for the trip. A couple who made it in three, though delighted with their journey, mourned over the unavoidable omissions and were planning to go again. Six months is not too much ; a whole year could be profitably employed : but in four months or a trifle more, one may visit the most important places and gain a fair idea of the various countries. The personally conducted parties for three months only are well worth while.

The expense of the trip will naturally vary according to the time and extent of the journey and the economy or extravagance of the tourist. A round trip ticket from New York to New York, good either by the Straits or across the Andes, may be purchased for $4-75, or including a return by way of Europe for $505. Additional expenses- may be from $500 or less to $1000 or more according to the person, the time, and the number of side trips taken. By several tourist agencies personally conducted parties are semi-annually dispatched to South America at a cost varying from $1375 for a tour of 98 or 99 days to $2250 for 146 days. Also the Hamburg-American Line has sent a ship around to Valparaiso by way of the Straits. Tickets $475 to $3000; optional extra shore trips $300 or more. Since the completion of the Canal a tourist ship has made the entire circuit.

Persons who prefer to be relieved of care, or who do not speak Spanish, the language current at all points of the journey save Brazil, and there understood by educated people, will do well to join a party, especially if their time is limited.

V

Those who can devote a longer period to the trip and who like to do their own planning may see more by themselves at either greater or less expense. One who speaks only English, by keeping to the main line of travel and patronizing the leading hotels, should have no serious difficulty; though it is, of course, an advantage, readily gained by one who is familiar with Latin or French, to have some acquaintance with Spanish, an easy and beautiful language. A bare smattering picked up from a phrase book on the voyage is better than nothing, while a conversational knowledge greatly enhances the pleasure and profit of the journey.

Baggage. In regard to baggage, the less taken the better, both on account of the expense and because of the care it entails; yet it is well to have a fair supply of good clothes, since evening dress is everywhere more strictly en regie than in most parts of the United States. The steamships are not all rigid as to the precise amount of baggage, though the allowance on different lines varies from 150 to 400 lbs. ; the railroads are strict and extra baggage is expensive; only 100 lbs. are allowed. Going up to Bolivia by the Southern Railway of Peru, a heavy box or two may cost as much as the ticket. Many tourists take only hand baggage to Cuzco and La Paz, leaving on board the steamer their heavy pieces, to be reclaimed later at Valparaiso. On all roads, the hand baggage goes free ; hence suit cases, etc., are much in evidence.

Clothing. One needs a supply of both light and heavy weight, the proportion of each depending upon the season of the year. Always by way of the Isthmus there are eight or ten days of summer weather en route, and several weeks during the East Coast journey. Along the seaboard of Peru and Chile woolen or heavy underwear may be desirable for many, as on the highlands of Peru and Bolivia; also in Chile and Argentina during their winter season, when a temperature in the forties and fifties will be experienced; some hotels have no fires, and the nights and mornings are chill. On the mountain railways, as during a portion of the sea voyage, wraps and rugs are needed in addition to moderately heavy clothing. Furs though unnecessary may be found agreeable during the months of winter, June to September.

Money may be carried in letters of credit on W. R. Grace,

HOW AND WHEN TO GO the National City Bank, Blair and Company, or other bankers, or by American Express Cheqnes, together with a moderate supply of gold. The English pound, being precisely the same as the Peruvian, is interchangeable with them; in other countries it has been more acceptable and convenient than American gold, though dollar exchange is now rapidly becoming popular. A point to be noted and remembered is that most resident Americans and English, a few natives, and travelers in South America generally, speak of certain coins, soles or pesos, as dollars; a poor custom which should not be imitated. Since it is prevalent, one must be on guard to avoid mistakes. In Panama a clerk or a coachman saying twenty cents or one dollar means silver ; i. e., 10 and 50 cents, United States currency. A man in Lima who speaks of twenty dollars probably means soles, practically ten dollars. In Bolivia a bolivian is about 40 cents, a peso in Chile is 22 cents more or less, in Argentina 44, in Uruguay $1.04; in Brazil a milreis is 33 cents. All of the countries divide their unit decimally, and if it were not for the foolish custom of English speaking folk, there would be no confusion. In this book the words dollars and cents and the sign $ will everywhere signify United States currency; otherwise the names employed by the respective countries will be used, as soles, pesos, and centavos. In connection with Brazilian money the sign $ is put after the number; thus 15 milreis is written 15$000. On account of variations in the value of the currency of several countries due to the European War, it is desirable to ascertain the precise rate of exchange at the moment.

Chapter II The Voyage To Panama

In 1903, before the United States ' occupation, there was no choice as to means of transport to the Isthmus. A single steamship company, that of the Panama Railroad, dispatched a vessel from New York once a week. Now there are four different lines with as many weekly sailings, besides one from New Orleans, a more convenient point of departure for many south of Mason and Dixon's line. The four companies, all with headquarters in New York, will gladly furnish the latest information in regard to their own sailing and accommodations as on other points in reference to the tour.

Fares. The lowest fare from New Y r ork to Colon, $75.00, to Panama, $78.00, is the same on all lines, better accommodations being provided for a supplementary fee of from $5.00 up. It is wisdom to purchase, if not a ticket for the round trip, one as far at least as Mollendo, $191, as a slight reduction is made on through tickets. Stop-overs are allowed at any of the ports of call, and on the East or "West Coasts of South America the journey may, if more convenient, be resumed on certain other lines of steamers without extra charge, save for embarking or disembarking in the small boats.

The respective merits of the four steamship lines to Panamaare a matter of opinion. On three of these I have enjoyed the voyage, especially my last in a luxurious suite on the Prim August Wilhelm of the Atlas Hamburg-American Line.

The old Panama Company claims that its boats are provided with all of the comforts afforded by the others, including rooms with private baths. It has regular weekly sailings, on Thursdays, several of the steamers making the journey in six days, instead of the seven, eight, or nine occupied by ships of the other lines. Those who prefer American cooking or the shorter voyage will choose one of these ships.

THE VOYAGE TO PANAMA

The Royal Mail Steam Packet Company, with which the Pacific Steam Navigation Company is allied, continues its service to Colon on alternate Saturdays, with the substitution of two fine new steamers of 9000 tons, with elevators and other modern luxuries, for two of the older ships. The steamers calling at Antilla, Cuba, and at Kingston, Jamaica, arrive at Colon on Sunday, eight days from New York, connecting with the boats of the Chilian and the Peruvian Lines sailing south on Monday. With the opening of the Canal to traffic in the summer of 1914, a new service from New York was planned on the intermediate Saturdays by the large 0 steamers of the P. S. N. Line, some of them of 15,500 tons, with double bottoms, seven steel decks, etc. These ships were scheduled to sail from New York to the Isthmus, through the Canal, down the west Coast, making the usual calls, then through the Straits of Magellan around to Montevideo, and with calls at Brazilian and Spanish ports to Liverpool; with return voyage to New York in reverse manner around South America.

The Hamburg-American Atlas Line has had fine steamers sailing every Saturday for the Isthmus, touching at Santiago de Cuba and Kingston, one week arriving at Colon on Monday, connecting with the boats for the south, the next week on Tuesday, thus missing them.

The United Fruit Company boasts of a great white fleet with four sailings to Colon a week; two, on Wednesday and Saturday, from New York; and two on the same days from New Orleans. These ships, they say, are the only ones going to Colon which were designed and built especially for tropical service, thus having all of the latest devices for comfort as well as for safety. A wireless equipment as a matter of course the boats of all lines carry ; these have also a submarine signal apparatus, to give warning of the proximity of another vessel, and, as an especial feature, lifeboats which with a patent lever may be swung off and lowered by a single man. By the system of ventilation the temperature of the rooms at night may be kept down to 55°, a boon to many on the muggy Caribbean. All of the boats on the various lines have pianos and music, most of them cards, checkers, chess, and libraries, the United Fruit Company supplying the latest magazines.

The Fruit Company now sells tickets to Colon at a lower rate, with meals extra a la carte, the total cost thus being greater or less than before.

Via New Orleans. The opportunity to go by way of New Orleans may appeal, especially in winter, to some who have not visited that city and to those who desire to avoid the possibility of two or three cold stormy days on the sea before entering the regions of perpetual summer. The Saturday boats reach Colon Thursday morning, the Wednesday steamers Wednesday, the latter having made a 34-hour call at Havana.

The voyage to Panama, indeed all of the six or seven weeks on the sea, which are a necessary part of this tour, will be likely to prove an agreeable experience even to those who as a rule do not enjoy the ocean. While the waters of the Atlantic may at any season be turbulent and tempestuous, the portions of both oceans which are to be traversed are for the most part so smooth that unless persons are determined to be seasick whether they have occasion or not, it is probable that they will suffer little or none from this unpleasant malady. Ordinarily the sail to Panama, under sunny skies, over unruffled seas, in weather, after a day or two, warm enough for summer clothing, is a pleasure unalloyed. On the Caribbean it may be a trifle muggy and sticky, but if favored with sunshine the wonderful blue of the waters, deeper than that of the Bay of Naples, affords solace. On some of the ships a little dance on deck, if happily under a tropical moon, may be an experience ' affording delightful memories.

Watling 's Island. After leaving New York harbor and the adjoining coast the first land to come within range of vision is that of Watling's Island, noted for a lighthouse of great power and value. Otherwise unimportant, it acquires interest from the fact that on this shore Columbus is believed to have made his first landing in the Western World. The island is thus entitled to the more pretentious name, San Salvador, bestowed by the great explorer upon the land where first he trod in devout thanksgiving, after many weeks of painful suspense upon the limitless ocean.

Fortunate is the traveler who towards sunset enters Windward Channel, passing before dark the desolate wooded bluffs of the eastern extremity of Cuba, Cape May si, and later having a look at the southeast shores where rise sombre, forest

THE VOYAGE TO PANAMA covered peaks to an imposing height, the loftiest above 8000 feet. From a Panama or United Fruit Company steamer no more will you see of Cuba ; but on a boat of the Royal Mail you will already have called at Antilla, in the eastern section of the island's northern shore, a new and growing seaport on Nipe Bay, and the north terminus of the Cuban Eailway. Extensive docking facilities have been provided, large warehouses, immense tanks for molasses, a good hotel: and plans are made for building here a great commercial city.

Santiago de Cuba. By the Hamburg-American Line the first call is made on the south side of the island at the more famous and considerable city, Santiago de Cuba, which, founded in 1514, is said to be the oldest settlement of size in the Western Hemisphere. With a population of 50,000, among Cuban cities it comes next to Havana. It has also historic interest. That Hernando Cortez from this port, Nov. 18, 1518, set out for the bold conquest of the Aztec Empire is a fact less widely known than the more recent circumstance that in this sheltered harbor the fleet of Admiral Cervera lay concealed, until July 3, 1898, it sailed forth to its doom. In the narrow portal, less than 600 feet wide, rests the old Merrimac, sunk by Lt. Hobson and seven others, June 3, 1898. On the right of the entrance, crowning a bluff 200 feet high, is the old Morro Castle, an ancient fortress of picturesque appearance, begun soon after the founding of the city and possessing towers and turrets in genuine mediaeval style. Six miles farther, at the head of the bay, on a sloping terrace with steep hills behind, is the bright, gay city ; though at the noontide hour it may seem a trifle sleepy and dull.

If time permits, a drive on the fine roads will be enjoyed. To the San Juan battlefield three miles distant and to El Caney a little farther the fare is $1.50 for a single person, $2.00 for several. The longer drive to Morro Castle, fare $3.50, affords charming views. In the city one proceeds first to the plaza, where on one side is the great cathedral called the largest in Cuba, containing rare marbles and mahogany choir stalls. On the other sides are the Casa Grande Hotel and the Venus Restaurant. Near by is the Filarmonia Theatre where the famous diva, Adalina Patti, is said to have made her debut. A few may care to visit the spot where the Captain and sailors of the Virginias were executed as filibusters in 1873, a slaughter pen near the harbor front to the east of the Cuba Railway Station. An inscribed tablet there commemorates the sad event.