From the Atlantic to the Pacific; reminiscences of pioneer life and travels across the continent, from New England to the Pacific ocean, by an old soldier. Also a graphic account of his army experiences in the Civil war

Front matter

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FROM THE

ATLANTIC

Index

Page.

Preface -^

Reminisences of Early Life in New England 7

Wenham Our Native Town 10

Jack and the Bear 1 1

Sunday in New England t3

Shortstop Johnny and the Ground Hog 17

Pioneer Life in the West 19

Chased by Wolves 2"-^

The Pioneer Preacher 24

Pioneer Life in Settling Up the Country 2 5

At the National Encampment 27

Flouring Mills of Minneapolis 28

Fort Snelling • 29

Moved to Iowa 30

Mormons at Mt. Pisgah 31

Attending the C. E." Convention at Boston 33

Under the St. Croix River, Visit Toronto 3 6

The Thousand Islands 40

Niagara Falls . . . : 41

New England 4 5

Daniel Webster's Farm 4 7

Hannah Dustin Monument 49

C. E. Convention at Boston 52

Faneuil Hall 57

The Old North Church 59

Bunker Hill Monument 60

The Public Garden 60

Endeavorers Visit Salem 62

Seeing the Sights 65

The Old Witch House 67

Salem Witchcraft 69

Gallows Hill 70

Hawthorne House 71

House of Seven Gables 72

liincoln Monument 73

The Tides 73

The Sea Shore 75

Attractions Along the Coast 75

The Breakers 78

The Pilots 79

Manchester by the Sea 80

The Blind Comrade 81

Rockport ■ 81

Fishing on the Atlantic Ocean 82

Caught in a Storm on the Atlantic 84

Cape Ann 87

The Devil's Tracks and Den 88

Visiting in the Vicinity of Old Home 90

The Myopia Club 90

The Polo Game and Shirt Race 93

Page.

Visiting the Old Home 94

Visit at the Cemetery 95

Visit at My Native Town, Wenhani 97

Eastern Washington 100

Shooting Springs and the Broncho 101

Dead Man's Lake 103

Prosperous Towns in Adams County 105

Mirage and Mountain Sunset 100

Western Washington 107

Seattle 109

Puget Sound 110

Taeoma Ill

Puget Sound Na^y Yard at Bremerton 112

Veterans' Home 113

The Little Church Upon the Sound 115

Moclips on the Pacific Coast 116

Axioms, Food for Thoueht 118

A Visit in the Alberta Country 121

Veterans' Home 122

Pneumonia Cure 122

A Chapter to the Young 124

Wanted 126

Concluding Remarks 127

Reminiscences of Army Life in the Civil War 129

The Breaking Out of Civil War 129

Butler's Journey to Washington 130

The Missing Rail 131

Watching and Waiting 132

The Indian War in Minnesota 133

Enlisting for Uncle Sam 136

Start for the Front 137

"Mine Bottle Tings" 138

On the Potomac River 139

Sketch of Army Life 142

On the Skirmish Line 14S

On Guard 149

Skirmishing 152

Capture of Fort and Petersburg 155

Capture of Richmond 159

Conversed With Gen. Grant 164

The Army Telegraph 165

Surrender at Appomattox 171

A Yankee Trick 175

Getting the Mail 176

Slaves Bought and Sold 17.S

On the March 179

Assassination of Lincoln 181

Grand Review at V/ashington 182

Start for Louisville 184

Arriving at St. Paul and Home 186

Conclusion — Is There a God, Heaven or Eternitv? 188

Preface

In prefacing the succeeding pages we prefer to write only a few lines, referring the reader to the first chapter for a more definite introduction. We write from experience, and in that light we will attempt to give our experience. Starting from the earlier years of boyhood, from our New England home on the sea coast near where the Puritans landed, and where the first battles of the Revolutionary War were fought and liberty was achieved and this nation became a free and independent people. While yet a young man we leave behind us the home of our childhood, with all its pleasant surroundings, saying good-bye to loving friends and the pleasant attractions of early life. Bidding adieu to the rock-bound coast of New England, the historic battlefields of Bunker Hill and Lexington, Faneuil Hall, the ''Cradle of Liberty," with all their varied associations with the early history of our country. These we leave all behind and shape our course westward towards the Pacific Ocean, for we ever had a strong desire to see the rolling waves of the two oceans. When this was accomplished we were prompted to write * ' From the Atlantic to the Pacific, by an Old Soldier/' where we have attempted to picture to the minds of our readers the varied observations and experiences of an active and eventful life, on our long journey from ocean to ocean, giving an account of our many adventures and experiences of Pioneer life in the West; also an extended delineation of the experiences of our army life as a member of the First Minnesota Infantry. Hoping that these pages may be perused with interest and profit, especially by the young people in whose interest we were prompted to write the following pages, and that they may induce you to have a tendency toward a—

"Laughing heart and smiling face each day, And scatter sunshine all along the way."

THE AUTHOR.

CHAPTER I. Early Life in New England

Situated upon an elevated plateau surrounded by the picturesque scenery of the hills and valleys that added much to the beautiful views that were ever a source of attraction to the eye of the beholder, stood the old house where I was born. It was a large two-story dwelling, erected soon after the landing of the Pilgrims, and near the beautiful little town of Wenham, Massachusetts. It was the joyous retreat of several generations of our family, it being the birthplace of my father and one of my sons. Here I first saw the light of day on Oct. 8th, 1832. This place was ever held in high esteem on account of its elevated position affording such a grand and beautiful view of all its surroundings. The frame of both house and barn were made of very heavy timbers, and the nails used in their construction were hammered into shape by the blacksmith, as were all the nails used for building purposes at this early date in our history. This old-fashioned house was built after the old Colonial style. It contained four large rooms, aside from halls, pantry and closets. In each of these rooms was a large brick fireplace, and by the side of each of these was a large brick oven in which the larger part of the family cooking was done. These were generally heated on Saturday, when a good supply of the good things to eat were placed in the oven, aside from the bread, meat, pies and cake ; the Puritan Sunday dinner was never overlooked. Their favorite dish, broAvn bread and baked beans, and Indian suet pudding rarely failed to be on the table for Sunday dinner.

Though several generations have passed away, the ancient custom still prevails almost to an universal extent among the people in the vicinity of where the Pilgrims landed.

We cannot forget the pleasant associations connected with the old kitchen, with its glowing fire upon the hearth, sending out the brilliant light and heat to the joyous family circle. How we listened with eager ears and earnest attention to the wonderful stories of Pioneer life, about the wild animals and Indians, as related to us by grandmother as she rocked to and fro in front of the fireplace, snapping of the stitches from the knitting needles, mingled w^ith the glowing sparks amid the merry hum of the tea kettle and the joyous shouts of childhood as we watched the sparks as they ascended the great chimney, or popped the corn and cracked the nuts, and the jokes that were ever prevalent around the old fireside. This was truly joyous, happy childhood. It brings a thrill of sadness when we consider that all the living witnesses to those happy seasons have passed away, only I alone am left to tell the tale. Father, mother, grandmother^ sister and brother have passed away and gone to their reward.

FROM THE ATLANTIC TO THE PACIFIC S*

My parents were James and Betsy Lee, my mother being a native of England, while father being a native of this country, was of English descent. It was here on the rock-bound coast of New England, overlooking the broad Atlantic with its picturesque scenery, we spent our boyhood days as a farmer boy, attending to the frequent arduous duties of the farm during the summer months, and attending the common school during the winter, securing an education.

We well remember seeing the fields of grain being cut down with the hand sickle, and the advent of the grain cradle when it appeared in use in our vicinity. When the mowing machine came it was a wonder to the whole farming community, and the farmers who assembled to witness its operation, decided it an undesirable way of mowing their hay fields by a majority of those present when making its first trial in our vicinity.

When we look back to the agricultural implements of our forefathers and compare them to the ones in use at the present time we hardly credit we are living in the same age. It verifies to us the one undeniable fact that this is an age of rapid progress and the unexpected is what is constantly taking place.

My paternal grandfather was of English birth, coming from England early in life. At the age of nine years he commenced the life of a sailor, filling the position as cook and cabin boy on a trading vessel bound for the West Indies Islands. He followed the seas for thirty years, visiting a large number of the foreign ports of the world, and became a skillful navigator of the seas, and took an active part in guarding the coast during the Revolutionary War.

In the war of 1812 he was one of the number to fit out a vessel that engaged in the privateer business, and captured several of the enemy's ships and cargos, which were divided among the crew of privateers. They were finally captured and sent to Canada as prisoners of war. After one of these captures he sent home what at that time was considered the essentials in housekeeping— one hogshead each of sugar, molasses and rum. After being imprisoned for nineteen months he was released at the close of the war. While there, in drinking from a spring, he took some insects in his stomach, from which he died after two years' suffering defying the skill of all physicians. A post mortem examination revealed the fact that they were in a separate sac within the stomach, that was greatly enlarged, from which he died.

Wenham Our Native Town.

Incidents often occur to me that transpired in my boyhood days. I believe the happenings of our early days when our associations are of a sunny nature have a tendency to remain on memory's tablet for a long time after their occurrence. We were always proud of our native town, Wenham. And whenever the boys of adjoining towns attempted to convince us that their town was a little the best, we would repeat to them the following lines:

Marblehead is a Rock Bed, Salem is a Shaggy, Beverly is a Bean Town, But Wenham is a Dandy.

This acted as a clincher and usually ended in a hearty laugh.

Strangers often spoke of its beautiful streets and cozy dwellings, its nice shade trees and its grassy lawn upon the square. The little pond near the Vestry where the frogs used to hold such grand musical concerts during the summer months and the girls and boys enjoyed it as a skating rink in the winter season. The frogs were so persistent in holding their concerts that they would not postpone them on account of a meeting being held in the Vestry. So on that account the Vestry was removed to a new location where the music of the frogs did not disturb the services.

I often think of my Native Town As the Beauty place of much renown, And ponder why I should ever roam And get so far from my Native Home.

Jack and the Bear.

There lived in our school district and attended school a colored youth by the name of Jack. He was an apt scholar— jolly, kind, good natured, generous, exceedingly witty and full of fun and a general favorite among the scholars. He frequently liad occasioii to go to the village about a mile away. The tavern was kept by an old gentleman who went by the name of Squire Thorn who, while on a visit to Vermont brought home with him a little cub bear that was as playful as a puppy and quite an attraction, especially to young America. He grew very fast and was soon a large bear. He had to be kept chained, for he would sometimes show his wild nature, although the old squire would handle him as he would a dog. He used to lay him on his back and drag him by the hind legs. The bear seemed to greatly enjoy this treatment as it rubbed his back on the ground. Jack had noticed this. So, one time when at the village he thought he would show his generosity by imitating the Esquire and give the bear a friendly rub. The bear was chained in the back yard with a stout chain about twenty feet in length, near the farther end of the yard, lying stretched out sound asleep. Jack made a grab for his legs. Bruin seemed greatly surprised when he saw it w^as not his master, and all the savage nature of the most ferocious beast of the forest returned to him. He made a bound for Jack, whose nimble figure was out of reach though the race across the yard was an exciting one. Jack just missed a blow from the bear's paw that buried itself in the earth just as he got out of his reach. Jack laughed heartily and when asked what his thoughts were when the bear was after him, ''I thought," said he, "that the legs must save the body or the body must perish." Jack soon went to live at an adjoining city. Several years after he made a visit to his friends where he used to live, bringing with him a nice white young lady whom he introduced as his Avife.

Sunday In New England.

The Pilgrims left their native land not only for the purpose of finding a home, but to find a place where they could worship God in accordance with their own views and not be dictated to or interfered with by any creed or denomination. Their views in regard to the Christian Sabbath were very strict in regard to its observance. To "Remember the Sabbath day and keep it holy," was in accordance with their belief.

My parents were both members of the Congregational Church, and when Sunday came all unnecessary labor was suspended and the people generally were interested in attending public worship. Preparation was made on the preceding day. The great brick oven was heated and filled with the good things that were to furnish the table with a bountiful supply for the next few^ days, thus doing away with all cooking on Sunday. Memory takes me back to these pleasant associations when the horse was hitched to the wagon and father, mother, sister and brother joined in a pleasant ride to church. We were a joyous, happy lot as w^e smelled the fragrant flowers along our pathway and listened to the sweet songsters as they poured forth their notes of joy from the fruit trees on either side. We soon cross the little stream that was always a source of attraction and pass by the long row of beautiful larch trees and soon come to the village and arrive at the old church. The people are flocking together, some on foot, some in wagons and carriages. The wonderful ' ' one-hoss shay ' ' was there also. A little box about 10x12 inches with glass door in front, hanging by the side of the door, was always a source of attraction, as it contained the names of those in the township who intended to marry after two weeks' publishing in this box, the notice reading about like this :

"Notice is hereby given that James Brown and Martha Day of Wenham intend Marriage.

Wenham, June 10th, 1842.— Stephen Dodge, Town Clerk."

The pulpit was a high structure in back end of the great church. The pews were nearly square, about 7x9 feet, with seats around the inside, inclosed all around, also door that buttoned on the outside. Each family had their own pew. I was only a little boy but was pleased when the long sermon ended, for I really did not like to be confined in so small a place and was anxious for the nice ride home. On our way items of interest were discussed, frequently about those who were published to get married. Marriage in those days was a real blessing and not a blessing in disguise. They seemed to understand their worth to each other. This reminds me of three preachers who, during a meeting came to our house for dinner. Their topic was their experience in marrying couples and the fees they received. One stated that the largest fee he ever received for marrying a couple was ten dollars. Another said he had never received over three dollars. The other said he generally got from one to two dollars. He told of a couple who came to get married. After the ceremony the groom asked him how much he charged. He told him he might pay him what he thought his wife was worth to him. He handed him a quarter and they all went on their way rejoicing.

This was years ago, before the first railroad was built through that part of the country, and the old four-horse stage coach was an important factor. How eagerly it was looked for, expecting to meet some loving friend or receive the long-looked-for letter through the mail. Wlien the horn tooted all was hum and bustle. The horses generally came in on the full run and drew up in front of the old tavern where the foaming horses were exchanged for a fresh team. While this was being done the travelers who wished, always had an opportunity to visit the bar that was ever kept in full blast and well supplied with the various kinds of liquors of those times, new and West Indies rum predominating. Upon the advent of the first railroad the old stage coach ceased to travel its usual route and the old tavern was a back number. The little old matrimonial publishing box was laid aside and all that was necessary was for the lady to decide in the affirmative and the parties could inimediately get married without any further preliminaries. Surely time brings changes.

Stop-Short Johnny and the Groundhog.

The incidents and associations of early life often come to our memory when we think of the occurrences of the past. Things that occurred when a small school boy often carried with them a certain degree of merriment that tends to have them more firmly fixed in our memory. I remember well when father came home with a new horse. He was of a light chestnut color, fat and sleek, and a nice animal. Previous to this time he had been used for a while to run a spice mill and had been broken to brace right back in the harness in order to stop the mill. Whenever he received the word the mill w^ould stop suddenly. That acquired habit he used to perfection ever after. On one occasion when father was going to the timber and we were going to school Johnny was hitched before the sled, as there was quite a body of snow on the ground and his route being over the same road to the schoolhouse. "We found it quite a treat to get a nice ride to school. In passing several houses we found the children out ready for a ride to school, so we soon had a jolly load of boys and girls, augmented by another lot a short distance before w^e reached the schoolhouse. There being no box on the sled, they crowded on, some sitting, some standing, holding on to the stakes. ''Stopshort Johnny" was going at a lively gait as we approached the schoolhouse. Father looked around smiling with a merry twinkle in his eye and says, "Don't any of you jump off; I will stop for you to get off." Just then he gave sharply the word 'Svhoa." It was so suddenly obeyed that there was a lively heap of girls and boys, dinner pails and books, mingled with peals of laughter from the struggling mass in the snow on each side of the sled. It was one of father's jokes, though he seemed surprised that they got off so quickly. He enjoyed it and laughed heartily with the rest. Another incident occurred in which Johnny, a groundhog and I were the principal actors. Johnny was a nice riding nag and I frequently rode him short distances. Being out on one of these trips, when returning I came through the field and pasture, following a track not very much used, and crossing a small stream at a ford about two rods wide, the water being about a foot in depth at the deepest part, running over a fine gravel bottom. As we approached the stream I saw a nice groundhog some ten or tAvelve rods from his hole where he lived on the opposite side of the stream and could easily capture him if I got there first. So Johnny started on the full run. When we got to the stream he wanted to drink, so he put in one of his ''stop shorts" and I went over his head, alighting in the water like a frog. The groundhog got safely into his home. Johnny got a good drink and I got a cold bath.

The Beautifiil Flowers.

The lovely flowers, how grand they are to view,

Like friendship's tie that is ever tried and true,

They scatter lovely sunshine all along the way,

And all gloomy sorrows turn to a brighter day.

We view the forests, rivers, mountains, lakes and seas,

But their beauty and fragrance vie with all of these.

God's grateful love and blessings around us pour.

Then why not be true and try to love Him more?

CHAPTER II. Pioneer Life In the West

After attaining the age of manhood, during the winter of 1854, we heard a lecture that was given by Josiah Quincy, Jr., of Boston. His subject was the Great West. We were deeply impressed with the statements he then gave of the West and we fully decided in our own mind that we would see some of the famous country that he so nicely pictured to us, and we concluded to comply with the advice that was afterward given by Horace Greely, ''Go West, young man." Accordingly, in the spring of 1855, my cousin and myself concluded we would leave the crowded State of Massachusetts and start for a more sparsely settled country, where land was good and cheap and make us a home. AVe purchased tickets to Chicago and then found that Dunleith. 111., was the terminus of the railroad going west. Learning there was no stage going in our direction, we started out, traveling the most of the way on foot, until we reached Mower county, Minnesota, where we tiled on a quarter section of Uncle Sam's land that was then subject to preemption. At this time the land was untaken all around us, but soon the settlers began to come in and select land for their homes. At this time the Indians, deer, wild ducks and prairie chickens were plentiful. Wild pigeons also nested in the timber and traversed the country in enormous, flocks, nearly excluding the light of the sun. It afforded us much pleasure in hunting the wild game that was so plentiful along the beautiful little stream that coursed its way through the timber some three miles distant, and across one corner of the land that I had selected for my farm.

In traveling out one day I met two men. One was armed with a gun and axe, the other carried a two-gallon jug and spade. He said they had just arrived, having driven through from Michigan, driving five horses and one yoke of oxen attached to two wagons heavily loaded with household effects and his wife and six children. He was a real Englishman, said he was looking for a place to make a 'ome and wished to know where there was a chance to get some "boats" for the '' 'orses." He also wanted to know if there was any show for his children to attend school. Minnesota was then a territory and little provision was made for schools. I told him if only a few such families as his came in we would soon have enough children for a school. "Yes," said he. "the children would be here, but where could we find a teacher?" I jokingly told him, if no one else would teach them I would. "On that condition," said he, "I will build my house on the quarter section next to yours." He did so and soon other families moved in and we called a meeting for the purpose of building a schoolhouse and locating a site for the same. I donated one acre on one corner of my land for the site and held my first office as clerk of school board. A nice log schoolhouse soon went up, furnished ready for school. One day soon after the genial Englishman came around, telling me that the wish of the settlers was that I should fulfill my promise I had made to him in regard to teaching their school. I could not readily refuse, although it came rather unexpected to me to be a teacher in the schoolroom. And I can look back with a feeling of pride when I learned that a goodly number of my scholars had crowned their lives with success and some had grown to be really prominent in civil life. We had previously married and established in our little log cabin a pleasant and happy home. Our labors were sometimes arduous in the opening and clearing of a new farm and getting it into a state of cultivation. But the trivial burdens of life are a pleasure, when our uppermost thought is that we are working for the upbuilding of a home and in the interest of those we love.

A Lonely Ride.

It was in early winter while my dear wife was away on a few days' visit to her father's home that I had an occasion to go to the county seat, 28 miles away. I started in the morning on horseback, expecting to return before dark, and arrived there about mid-day. Being delayed in getting my business transacted I did not get started back until nearly sundown. Some of my friends there advised me to stop all night and not think of going back orver the lonely prairie after dark. I had left stock that would need attention and I had arranged to be back that night and started homeward. Darkness overtook us when on the edge of the settlement some six or seven miles from the town.

CHASED BY WOLVES.

From this point for the next fifteen miles there was no settlement or building of any kind. The route lay across the smooth level prairie, burned over. It being traveled but a very little it was difficult to discern the slight track after darkness had surrounded us. I had great confidence in the favorite mare that I rode, for I had frequently rode her across many miles of trackless prairie and she would always follow the same track homeward. So

I always after dark let her do the guiding. After riding about five miles from the last settlement there was a nice little stream that was skirted with quite a growth of timber. After crossing this stream my animal seemed to be uneasy and act frightened. I looked at my right and saw that some large animal was following us. Thinking it m^ight be a dog I gave a loud shout, but it did not scare a bit. I then realized the fact that we were followed by large timber wolves and without any Aveapon to defend ourselves I felt alarmed, and wished I had my old shooter. The next ten miles distance was covered in a wonderfully short time, with the wolves generally in the rear; when slackening our pace they would be on the side that blew the scent from iis to them. A bright light was burning at the first house we reached and as that shone out into our faces the wolves gave one vigorous howl and took their departure. Wolves were quite prevalent in that vicinity at that time, especially the kind known as the prairie wolves. It was m}^ good fortune to capture nine of them during one winter. The state paid ten dollars bounty on them for a while on account of their being so destructive to sheep and other young stock.

The Pioneer Preacher.

Attending the church meetings was what the early settlers took much pleasure in doing. It was really an attractive sight to see a large load of persons, mostly ladies, seated on the bottom of the long wagon box that was set upon the large wagon, hauled by a stout pair of oxen. Theii^ good nature and jovial conversation made it largely imitate an old-fashioned sewing society that prevailed in the eastern states. A primitive log cabin that was used as a tavern was used as a place for the early settlers to hold their meetings on Sunday. The preacher was on time and ready to hold services. The landlord said now the preacher had come they must have some meat, so he took down his rifle and started out to get some game, returning before the meeting was over with a nice fat deer. The preacher was an eloquent, earnest worker on the farm as well as on the rostrum.