Every man his own trainer

Front matter

Shelf

,1V f

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA.

Chapter II

The Weanling Colt — Halter Breaking — Should Be Well Bred — Commencing to Develop Speed — Leading with Halter — Working with a Saddle Horse, &c, - - - 7

Chapter III

Hitch Colt First Time Double — When to Hitch Single— Kicking Strap — His Work Single — Put on Light Shoes or Tips — How to Put on Tips — Tips Necessary Behind to Attach Toe Boots, - - - 13

CAAPTER IV.

How to Hitch Colts to Road Cart — How to Drive Colt the First Few Times — When to Let Up on Your Colt — Protect with Boots — Winter Treatment of the Yearling Colt, - - - - - 16

Chapter V

When to Commence to "Work and How at Two Years Old — A Light Road Cart Necessary — Bits, Leather the Best — Care of Colt After Work — Leading Colt Behind Cart — Shoeing and Toe Weights — Track Work Management— Care of Colt When Giving a Repeat — Neck Sweat — Body Sweat — Too Much Work a Detriment — Cases Cited, Bonner, Great Eastern, Black Frank and Norwood — Conditioning Great Eastern and Bonner Required Opposite Treatment — First Race with Your Colt — Treatment After the Race — Sale of Lysander Boy to William H. Vanderbilt, - - lif

Chapter VI

Working Colt or Horse on Snow Sometimes Great Improvement Over Track Work — Their Care and Management in Winter — Case Cited. Win. Kearney, 2:20*— If a Colt Is Good-Gaited and Well-Bred— If He Don't Trot, Do Not Get Discouraged, But Persevere— Case Cited. Flora F., 2 :24±— Treatment of Colt After a Winter's Work— His Work at Three Years' Old — Changes Necessary — Look to His Teeth — If Lips Peel, Cover Bit with Pork Rind — Changing Feed Sometimes Beneficial — Booting Very Necessary A. B Smith's

(Rochester, N. Y.) Horse-Goods Depot — Management of Mares Dur- Breeding Period, Also Stallions — Use Stallion Support — Management and Driving Colt His First Race — Grooms — Loading and Shipping in Cars — A Driver Should Attend to His Horse at All Times — Management of a Horse in Training — Jane R. King Alniont. -" - 12

CHAPTER XIV. Introductory

I have noticed for a long time this question appearing in different papers devoted to equine matters : " Where can I buy a book which teaches how to condition, develop, train and drive a trotter or pacer ?'' The answer usually is, "There is none that teaches the art." As the inquirer is usually some one that is making a small beginning or venture in the breeding line, and cannot afford to place their stock in the hands of a first-class trainer for development, it has occurred to me that it would be a kindness to many thousand small breeders to tell them in plain horse talk all that is known, and all that I have learned in my thirty years' experience in the stable and on the track, filled in with illustrations of certain points which I wish to impress by personal experiences with certain horses which I have handled and driven in races through the Grand Circuit and elsewhere.

It has been twenty-one years since any work of this kind has been attempted, and in that time the changes have been such that the methods then in use have become obsolete and have been retired to " inoccuous desuetude." There has been such an advance and improvement over the days of Hiram Woodruff, that if he were now on earth he would hardly recognize his loved art, the improvement has been so great. I do not expect this work will be above criticism as a literary production, as that is not in my line, but I do mean its horse talk to be comprehensive, instructive, and adapted to those readers whom I expect will profit by its perusal.

Any man that has horses in training can by studying this work see that they are properly handled, and if necessary can oversee and direct their preparation. This work will also contain the 2:30 list complete up to Jan. 1st, 1889, as I believe this work will go into the hands of many farmers who would never see it in any other book.

A. J. FEEK, Jan. 1st, 1889. Syracuse, N. Y.

Every Man His Own Trainer.

Chapter I

The reasons why I decided to write this book, in addition to what I have said in the introductory why I publish this work, I will say that I could spend nearly all my time answering questions in regard to this subject. A very intimate friend will call at my house, and, after a heartfelt greeting and hand grasp, will say Jack, (remember this gentleman is an intimate friend), he has passed the formality of Mr. Peek; Jack, what shall I do to get my trotter going? And. as I love to spend my time with my friends, I give him hours in inquiring into the characteristics and peculiarities of his horse, and endeavoring to give him advice which will bring his probably recent purchase to the front, and thereby benefit him financially, but does not buy oats for my horses.

After my friend has bowed himself out, I start for my stable, and, as I pass around the first street corner I meet a gentleman who cordially grasps my hand and says, ''How do you do, Mr. Feek ? I have been waiting to see you for several days." It maybe Judge R. or Bank President D., who I am bound to treat with courtesy. He goes on to say the man he has employed in his stables says his horses want such and such work, and asks me what I think of it. I of course am obliging, and another half hour is gone without profit.

Well I manage to get to the street on which my stable is situated, and I meet an amateur trainer driving out of the park, who has been working a horse, and he appears lame. I am stopped by my would-be brother trainer and asked to look his horse over to locate the trouble. I do so because this man may turn out well and I may meet him on the battle-field of the ring, where a friend is sometimes needed to help the slowest horse around the upper turn, in order that my colors may come first to the wire.

When I get to the stable I find a farmer or his son waiting for me, who came in early to inquire when they better begin working that trotting colt.

I find a horse hitched under the shed, who has been brought to me for advice about shoeing, as it is well known that I superintend the shoeing of my own horses in every particular; if I can find a smith that will do as I direct, if not, I hire one myself.

Well, when I have obliged every one, I am permitted to work my own horses for a short time, and after the necessary lessons and business of the day are over I may receive a telegram from some prominent Western or Eastern horseman who is on his way through or changing cars at Syracuse, and desires me to meet him at an evening train. I of course wish to please him, because I may be in his town next week buying a horse, or may be attending a meeting of which he is Secretary or President. Sometimes it is only a social reunion he desires; more often he has some horse he wants to consult me about who has peculiarities that he thinks I may overcome, and thereby increase the value of his stock. I say Mr. F. or Mr. E., " You have competent trainers, and those who have a National reputation in your town, why don't you employ them ?" " Well, Mr. Feek, I will tell you, Mr. S. or Mr. B. cannot be beat on the track, to get in the sulky and drive a race, but they lack skill and judgment in putting in condition and preliminary working of colts and aged horses to get them going. You have the reputation of taking the raw material and bringing it to the front, and I am going to send you my colt anyway." I say "All right; I have got plenty of feed and a blackmith shop, and I will try and bear out my reputation.'' After a lunch at the Leland, we part at the cry " All aboard '' from the conductor.

This work is intended to answer all necessary questions and to instruct amateurs in the business, so they may have at least moderate success and profit. There is the same assured success in this as in any business to those who are willing to work and wait. A few will draw a capital prize ; no one can tell who will be the lucky one ; a trial is the only test. King of the Sulky is a cognomen vouchsafed to only a few. You may be a Marvin, a McCarthy, Turner, Splan, Murphy, Van Ness, Golden, or Doble. A great General like Grant had to be developed by circumstances, so has a great driver like one of the above. Be satisfied if you are considered a competent and trusty trainer among the great army of drivers.

Chapter II

The Weanling Colt— Halter Breaking— Should Be Well Bred- Commencing to Develop Speed— Leading with Halter — Working with a Saddle Horse, &c.

I propose to take the colt at four months' old, halter break it, and bring it step by step from a weanling to the mature campaigner, willing and able to earn his oats, besides paying off the mortgage on the old farm.

In the first place we will suppose that the reader has some material to work upon ; his colt has some expectation of speed by inheritance, either through his sire or dam — if through both, all the better. I am not in this work going to advocate any particular strain of blood or family, but I wish to impress the fact, that the better you breed the more certain the result. The best end of the problem is always the mother ; she it is that impresses the main characteristics upon her sons and daughters, grandsons and granddaughters, and when one queen of the harem is recognized by horsemen, her progeny sell for fabulous sums ; for instance, Green Mountain Maid, by Harry Clay, produced foals which sold, or offers made which were refused, to the amount of $244,000 ; a yearling son has recently been sold for $12,500. Another dam, Beautiful Belle, by The Moor, produces foals which are worth a King's ransom ; one three-year-old son sold at auction for $51 000, and a weanling for $12,000, and Miss Russell, Midnight and VVaterwitch, by Pilot, Jr., produces foals that are known by every child in the land, some of which are beyond purchase price, namely, Maud S., 2:08|, and Jay Eye See, 2:10.

These are only a few instances of the many hundred producing dams ; so I say look well to the mare you breed from. Stint the best mare you have, or can afford to buy, to the best stallion within your reach. Do not be afraid if the

EVERY MAN HIS OWN TRAINER.

fee is fifty or one hundred dollars, in the end it is cheaper than a service fee for nothing, or from some inferior horse whose service fee can be obtained for ten or fifteen dollars.

Pedigree is closely looked into these days, and the popular and fashionably bred stock is what brings the money. Why? Because it has been demonstrated that it became popular because that blood could trot to the front in fast time, and that is what wealthy gentlemen are looking for.

To show how certain are the results when certain rules are followed, I will mention an advertisement I saw for the sale of certain stock. The owner agreed that if any purchase did not enter the 2:30 list, after a certain amount of training, the purchase money need not be paid. The stock was all the produce of dams who had records below 2:20, and had already proved themselves producers. The sires were trotters ; they also had representatives in the magic circle, and their sires also had first honors.

We will suppose again that you have been wise and have a first class four months' old foal at its mother's side ready to wean. Put a five-ring leather halter upon him with a leather stale and let him run about with it on, the stale or lead strap dangling, and he will virtually halter break himself. When you approach the colt take hold of the halter strap carefully, if he flies back ease away on him, if he comes up to you treat him kindly, caress him and talk to him ; do not bother him too long at one time, but be kind to him at all times. It would be well to have an apple or piece of sugar in your hand to give him, in fact, kindness will do more for one of the horse kind than brute force will. You will be surprised how short a time and little trouble it takes to teach a young colt what you wish him to do.

When he is nicely halter broken and weaned, then it remains for the owner to say whether he will now commence to develop his speed. Some prefer early development, others prefer to wait for more mature years, and say early development means early decay, and I will wait and have a fast horse instead of a fast colt and a broken down, aged horse ; I will wait until he is about two years old.

In the first place, when the colt is taken from his mother, he should be well fed. In my opinion there is more injury done a weanling foal by not feeding than overfeeding; he should be kept in a nice, warm box stall, and fed what good hay he can eat and from four to six quarts of oats per day. He is yet too young to bit, and if you want to develop speed in the youngster make a bridle of the halter, pass the halter strap over the neck and tie into lead ring on the other side ; take the colt close up to the head by the left hand, laying the right elbow over the colt's shoulder and taking hold of the rein on the off side ; take a whip in the right hand, holding it over the shoulder, turned backward toward the hips — in that way the colt is kept going straight ahead. Great care should be taken to not put any more weight on the colt's back than the weight of the arm. This work should be done by a lighthanded, nimble footed boy or young man, so as not to make the colt do all the work. A good way is to lead the colt a short distance from the stable in which he is kept, then turn him around carefully, and start him back to the stable as fast as he will go easily. This you might do two or three times in succession, but be very careful not to be harsh with him. If he is dull and obstinate, don't force him with the whip or pulling, but put him away until the next day, as horses, like people, do not feel each day alike, and you can do a great amount of harm to a colt by attempting to force him in the commencement of his education. If the colt is playful, capers, and runs, don't set him back on his haunches or break his neck, but go up the road again with him and let him know by kindness what you want of him, and in a very few days, with such lessons, if he has any natural speed he will show it; but, of course, this treatment will improve a lunk head if followed up any length of time.

Of course the well-bred will develop and improve much faster than the cold-blooded one. These lessons may be

IO EVERY MAN HIS OWN TRAINER.

practiced two or three times a week, according to the condition and ability of the colt.

When he is seven or eight months old, and has developed enough speed to warrant the supposition that he is worth training as a yearling, slip a light bridle on him with a bit easy and loose in his mouth (a leather bit is best), and leave it on him, in the stall, one hour each day. In that way he gets used to the bit and does not fight it. In a few days put on an easy check, with biting rig, a light surcingle will do with crouper attached of £ood length, so as not to draw too tight under the tail, as that would irritate him. I have often seen trouble with aged horses for this reason, and an ordinary observer would not know what was the cause of their kicking or attempting to kick. Do not leave it on him at first over fifteen or twenty minutes at a time ; do not get out of his sight, keep within reach, so that if he gets nervous or angry, a few strokes of the hand or a few kind words may soothe him. The first lesson should be short, in fact all of them should be, but repeated often.

In due season put on a pair of lines of good length, and drive the colt with them until they learn what the bit is in the mouth for. Teach them to know what the word '' Whoa '' means, also to go ahead of you freely and rein handily first to the right and them to the left.

Select a good saddle horse that is well broken and easily controlled, is quick and active, let your man get on the saddle horse, take the lines of the colt and a whip in your hand and start your colt off moderately ; first on a walk, until he gets used to it and finds out what you want ; then move him off on a jog ; this ma)' be increased daily until you have reached the limit of his speed. Being sure not to go far enough to tire the colt, so he will begin to come back to you of his own accord. Keep him fresh and anxious to go. In this way you can develop a wonderful amount of speed and will do your colt no harm, as he has no load to carry or weight to draw. The horse galloping along behind him stimulates and en-

EVERY MAN HIS OWN TRAINER. II

courages him, and with your lines you help to steady him, keeping him on a trot, and your whip, being in your hand in his sight, helps you to manage him, as the natural instinct of the horse is to be afraid of the whip to a certain extent ; do not use it on him more than a light tap, as it is a bad plan to get them excessively afraid of it. There are exceptions, as in the case of a high spirited, nervous animal, where the whip is not needed, but in most cases colts need something to scare them along, and need a little urging to make them show their natural ability. Great care should be taken to not force the colt beyond his natural speed and strength. Our natural anxiety for improvement is so great that we are apt to ask too much of a youngster, expecting as much speed in one week as we ought to develop in a month.

You should watch the colt carefully to see that he is not hitting himself, as eight out of every ten when they commence to trot will hit the coronet of the hind foot against the front foot, sufficient to make it sore, even before they are shod, and they will be afraid to trot. You should not do much with a colt in the way of developing speed without using on him tips or a light shoe, in either case tip or shoe not to weigh over three or four ounces. Put on as described in the next chapter. With these on you can attach a light toe or scalping boot on the hind foot, which might save you three or four months 1 let up caused by hitting and frightening the colt.

With colts that are healthy and strong, you can give them a little short and sharp work every day, and they will improve under it, while others will only stand such work every other day, perhaps twice a week will be sufficient for some, and you would see more improvement at the end of three months than you would if you gave them work every day.

In all cases of handling colts it requires discretion and ability in the trainer to get the best results, as you may have the best colt every foaled and spoil him by ignorance and abuse. But if you follow these instructions you will not make many mistakes, and if your colt has any ability you will certainly develop more or less speed and do your colt no harm, unless by an unavoidable accident, which is liable to happen under any circumstances. I want to impress this- fact on the mind of the reader, that to get the best results the colt or horse must have perfect confidence in his trainer, and that can only be obtained by kindness and good treatment under all circumstances.

No man is fit to handle colts or horses unless he has perfect control of his temper, for you can do much more with coaxing than you can with harsh treatment, for when an animal becomes afraid of his trainer he loses confidence and will not improve in that man's hands. This applies to aged horses as well as colts.

Chapter III

Hitch the Colt First Time Double — When to Hitch Single— Kicking Strap— His Work Single — Put on Light Shoes or Tips — How to Put on Tips— Tips Necessary Behind to Attach Toe Boots.

After you have worked your colt for some time with the saddle horse and desire to hitch him to a cart, it would be well to give him his first lessons hitched double with another horse, especially if he is of high mettle and spirited — (this applies to colts of any age). Hitch him first one day on the near and the next day on the off side ; that keeps their mouth straight and accustoms them to the pole on either side ; they do not then get the habit of driving all on one rein. If you drive them only on one side, when they are hitched single they are apt to have the one-line habit, and it is hard to break them of it.

When you have driven him enough double and he becomes waywised and handy and you want to commence driving him single, it would be well as you come in from driving him double to change the double for a single harness and hitch him right up to your break cart, as he has probably by this time got the wire edge and play out of him, and he will go right off without any trouble.

In hitching single use for the first few times a kick strap, as it is usually called, for safety only ; but I want to say right here, that the kicking strap in many cases does more harm than good, causing an injury to the horse by not being properly adjusted. If it is put on too close to the roots of the tail, when the horse raises his tail it may catch the skin between the strap and crouper and cause him to scringe as it hurts, and he will attempt to kick, which he would never have thought of if it had not been for the offensive strap. If it is put too far in front it is no preventative, if he attempts to kick. It should be put on about half way between the roots of the tail and coupling", and fastened there so as to keep it in its place ; then buckle it loosely to the shafts of your break cart, so as to cause no unpleasant sensations when the colt starts to move.

Give him now a short drive, not over two miles, in many cases one mile would be better. It will be necessary for people to use their own judgment in a measure, as my experience is that many a colt has been spoiled by his being a little fractious, and his owner says, I will give him enough to take it out of him. He does take it out of him, and it never returns to the colt, and many times we get the same result with an aged horse. In fact there is only one way it ever will return, and many times that fails — that is you must give him a long let up and run to grass.

It will be better to hitch them twice, or even three times in one day and make the drives short, and you will find you will have a sound and a better horse when you get him broken.

If when he is hitched he feels sharp and wants to go, let him move off at a good smart gait, don't hold him in and irritate him or make his mouth sore by pulling him.

Don't keep him in harness long enough to get tired ; bring him in while he has something left in him ; it will take a little more time to break a colt in this way, but he has received his education without injury or a broken heart.

Great care should be taken that they do not get footsore by driving. If the toes begin to break up, or their feet begin to get tender, put on a light shoe or a tip. If a heavy shoe is used the colt is liable to get leg weary and hit himself. I favor tips on colts properly put on, as a protection around the toe is all that is necessary for a colt or horse to prevent injury with ordinary use. In putting on tips it should pas9 about two-thirds around the foot towards the heel, the toe and side of the foot should be taken away as far as the tip extends the thickness of the iron, the foot should be brought to a square gog at its juncture with the tip so that the foot will be level and the bearing equal, that the frog and heel may come to the ground. These may be used in front and behind in the same manner, and should be made of steel or iron not over one-eighth inch thick and half an inch in width. They can be made lighter if you like.

The tip is necessary for many colts on its hind feet on account of his scalping, as it is termed, so that you can use a toe boot to protect the coronet, which is a very sensative part of the foot. When a colt hits there a few times he begins to hitch and hobble, and you will say I don't know what ails my colt, he is bad gaited ; when the fact is, it is caused by an injury from hitting himself and having no protection.

Chapter IV

How to Hitch Colts to Road Cart— How to Drive Colt the First Few Times— When to Let Up on Your Colt— Protect with Boots— Winter Treatment of the Yearling Colt.

Now your colt is ready to hitch to a road cart to see if you can develop any speed. The best cart is probably manu factured by Bradley & Co., of Syracuse, N. Y., a cut of which in the back part of this work, with other specialties, is shown. They have agents in most every town in the United States, if no agent is near you, any order sent direct to the manufactory would be honored at once. It is light and cheap, and I consider them the best cart for the money in the market. Hitch him far enough away from the cart so that the hocks or tail cannot hit the cross bar or dash, also have the britchen very loose so he will have room to extend himself. If you are in a village go up one street and down another, as the colt heads towards the stable he will naturally be anxious to move along, then let him go for a brush, say for twenty or thirty rods, not to exceed forty. Then talk him back, not pull him ; use a light rein so as not to get his mouth sore ; after going a few rods slow, if he again desires to brush let him move along about the same distance as before, and if he is fresh and not tired, let him go around the block again and repeat as before. If you are not in a town go up the road and head him towards home ; you should not in these first few lessons force him to go at speed going away from home unless he is full of life and spirits and wants to go, thus it would be much better to let him have his head and move along than to pull him and take him back, as there are no natural pullers, they are all learned the trick by bad driving, heavy handed people, and is one of the worst habits a horse ever acquired. A horse will learn it easier than he can be broken of it. Why I speak of going around the block or up the road is because I favor road work instead of too much track work, as many get very sick of a track, there is too much sameness about it, they want a change of work and scenery. I would recommend in road work to go different directions on alternate days. A yearling colt should not be driven any day to exceed two miles, and in many cases one mile would be better.