How to grow celery anywhere : giving the principles which govern the growth of celery

Front matter

ANI

Cluip,. ._•::_. Copyright No..

Shell ^ '^'

Introduction

IN presenting this work to the pubHc I trust it will be the means of assisting my fellow market gardeners, as well as private parties, to grow that most delicious of all vegetables, Celery. Being here in this great Celery growing district, and growing it to a certain extent myself for fifteen years, I deem myself competent to write such a work. The teachings in this book are given from a standpoint of experience and close observations, and there is nothing theoretically or imaginary in it, as has been the case with some writers. This book gives all details however small, and it is sent forth with the hope that it will not only be kindly received but may serve to promote the growth of celery.

PETER J. SCHUUR, Kalamazoo, Mich., 1896.

CELERY CULTURE.

I. How TO Test Seeds

The testing of seed is a very simple but necessary process and may be done as follows: Sow loo seeds in a shallow pan, or basin, filled with mellow earth, covering them with the earth from ViQ to ys of an inch. Water sparingly, just enough to keep them moist, and keep them warm. In from 14 to 21 days the seed will come up; count the seeds that failed and plant your seed in the seed bed accordingly. Planting the seed too thickly will thus be avoided.

The following is another quick way of testing the life of seed: Throw a number of seeds on a hot cook stove. Be sure that the stove is hot, and every seed that has life in it will pop.

Still another way is to put a layer of cotton batting in a bowl or small milk pan, sprinkle with lukewarm water, drop 100 seeds on the batting and cover with another layer of batting. Lay a pane of glass over the basin and keep moist and

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warm. After about 15 days remove the top layer. If it is found that the seed is not sprouted either it has been kept too cold, too hot, or it is worthless. If the seed has been kept too hot, the test is of no value and should be applied again. If the seed has been kept too cold, set aside for another five or ten days, after which examine it again. If the seeds are then found sprouted, take account of the number that failed and plant the seed bed accordingly.

Perhaps it is unnecessary to add that the object of these tests is to determine how thickly to plant the seed in the seed bed.

II. What Varieties are Best Adapted to Different Climates

It is impossible to tell, with absolute certainty, what variety of celery would best be planted any year.

Each variety is best adapted to some particular kind of season, especially in respect to the amount of rainfall during the season. But the seasons, in the same locality, even, are as variable as the winds. Therefore, the best that can

CELERY CULTURE.

be done is to give all the information possible for an average season.

For states in the same latitude as Kalamazoo, Mich., and having about the same rainfall. White Plume is best for summer and early fall use; but for late fall and winter, the green varieties should be planted. The tender White Plume will not stand very dry weather, or very cold, and should be out of the way before freezing weather sets in. If it cannot be sold quick enough to be out of the way by that time it should be trenched and stored.

• In Southern and arid states, where irrigation must be depended upon for moisture, the green varieties, such as the Giant Paschal, the Boston Market, and others equally hardy would better be planted. These kinds will best stand frost and hot, dry winds. They should be planted quite early, as they are of slower growth than the Golden Heart, Perfection-Heartwell, Kalamazoo, etc.

III

How TO Prepare the Seed Bed on Upland, Clay, Sand, Etc.

This is by no means an easy matter. Such soil should be mixed with black muck, leaf mold,

CELERY CULTURE.

and old dung, from three to four years old. About one part of old dung should be mixed with three parts of the original soil.

Another good way to prepare the bed is to mix swamp earth, if any can be obtained, with an equal quantity of the upland soil. The bed should be prepared during the fall, and should be made in a low spot, not subject, however, to washings from higher places. In the spring, about the ist of May for this latitude, the seed should be sown. Before sowing, the bed should be raked level. If it is desired that the plants stand broadcast, sow the seed in that way and rake it in.

But it is usually more desirable that the plants stand in rows, in which case the seed must be sown in shallow trenches yi. an inch deep, and covered from J^ to ^ inch with mellow earth, free from stones and lumps. To cover the seed sow the earth on, but if very mellow it may be raked on with the head of a garden rake. After sowing the seed roll the bed with a heavy 'garden roller, or tramp it down with the feet. (See chapter V.)

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IV

How TO Prepare the Seed Bed on Low or Very Wet Land.

The seed bed may be prepared on low or very wet land, but not in close proximity to springs; in such a place the young plants would get chilled in early spring. See to it that the bed is well spaded. Use only well rotted manure, and use it sparingly; it should be spaded under well to avoid burning the plants. As a rule plants do better on low, swampy, but well drained land, than on upland. Celery is a native of such ground. Tramp the bed down well, as recommended in the next chapter; it will keep the hot sun out, the bed will be cooler, and the plants will not burn so quickly.

V. How TO Avoid Sprinkling the Seed Bed

By very simple management it will not be necessary to sprinkle the seed bed in any kind of weather, especially if the bed is made of black muck. Pull on a pair of old shoes without heels and tramp the bed down even at all places. A pair of old rubber boots without heels may be lO CELERY CULTURE.

used with good effect. The bed should be tramped immediately after the seed is sown and not left to dry out before the tramping is done. (But do not tramp it while very wet, as it will then bake and become sour.) A bed thus tramped need not be sprinkled, even though it appear dry on top. By careful observation it will be found that there is a greenish, dry crust on top, due to the hot sun and the acid in the soil. This crust will protect the bed from excessive heat of the sun, but will in no way injure the plants. As a rule, the plants in these tramped seed beds are a little later. However, the time saved in sprinkling will amply repay all trouble of tramping.

Though the bed be prepared on upland, it, also, should be tramped as described above. If too dry, wet it thoroughly with the sprinkler or hose, then, after the surplus water has run off or settled away, tramp the bed down as already directed. After the plants are up, if the bed appear to be too dry, wet it thoroughly and tramp it. No injury need be done to the plants, if care be taken and shoes without heels be used. If the bed seems dry, tramp it immediately after a rain. Before pulling plants from one of these

CELERY CULTURE. II

tramped seed beds, wet that part of it from which the plants are to be taken. Otherwise, what are sometimes called the working roots of the plants, may be injured, and without them it is difficult to start the plants.

VI. How TO Get Strong, Stocky Plants

When the plants are about two inches high, thin them out so that there are about five or six to the square inch. Before thinning, cut them back a little with a knife or a pair of shears.

This should be repeated as often as it appears that the plants are crowding one another. Cutting the plants back occasionally admits the air to circulate freely among them and will insure healthy, stocky plants, well rooted and that can stand trans-planting at any time.

Of course, in trans-planting, the ground where the plants are trans-planted should be made wet as directed in another chapter

VII

How TO Raise Two Crops of Plants on the Same Seed Bed.

Where land is cheap there is no need of raising two crops on the same bed; but where rent is high and places suitable for beds are limited, it may be desirable to do so. It has been done by the writer many times. The first seed should be sown in March in a well prepared bed, covered with ordmary hot-bed sash. If hotbed sash cannot be had, plant-bed cloth, tacked to home-made frames will answer the purpose. About the 15th of May the first crop of plants will be ready to be trans-planted and should be set out as soon as possible after they are large enough. As soon as the first crop has been removed from the bed, clean it of weeds, level with a rake or other implement, and sow it again with sprouted seed.

(For directions how to sprout seed, see next chapter.)

After covering the seed from ]^ to z/^ oi an inch with mellow earth it should be well sprinkled so that no dry places remain underneath. Then the bed should be tramped down as solid as possible, as directed in chapter V.

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If the bed should need a httle shading to prevent the plants from burning, the best shading material is plant-bed cloth, the cheese cloth grade used by tobacco growers to protect tobacco plants from frost. The cloth should be tacked to home-made sash, and the sash should be laid on about 9 o'clock in the morning and removed about 4 in the afternoon. Judgment should be used in shading. No shading at all should be used unless there is danger of the plants being burned by the hot sun. Keep on shading till the plants can stand the heat of the sun.

If the medium grade plant-bed cloth is at hand, use it for shading. But if no plant bed cloth is to be had and there is danger of burning the plants, place strips across the frames and on these lay brush. Freshly cut brush with the leaves on is preferable, as not so much of it is required to produce the desired shade. The evidence that the plants are burning is unmistakable. The hot soil cooks the tender stem just at the surface of the ground and the plants droop over and lie on the ground. If, here and there, a plant is seen lying on the bed, it is time to begin shading in order to save the plants.

VIII

How TO Get the Plants Up Before the Weeds Come Up.

Get a large basin or pan, fill with nice mellow earth, free from stones, and moisten it well; then put in the seed you expect to sow and mix thoroughly with the soil. Keep it moist and warm, but not too warm. After lo or 15 days the seed should be sprouted. If the seed is good, but is not sprouted by that time, it has been kept either too warm or too cold. If the former, it will never grow, so throw it out and try again. If the latter, set aside till it does sprout.

As soon as the seed is sprouted, sow it in drills and tramp down as already directed in chapter V. Under ordinary circumstances the plants will be up in a week, and before weeds make their appearance. This method should be resorted to in every weedy soil.

If the tiny little plants come up before the weeds, they have the advantage of the weeds for quite a time, till they have grown stronger and can stand weeding better. If they have to be weeded while puny, many a small plant will be pulled up with the weeds. If they are thick in

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the bed the pulhng up of a few does not matter so much ; but if they are thin, then every plant should remain.

Here in Kalamazoo, where the soil is wet and swampy, a good method, and one which the writer adopts, is as follows:

First, level the seed bed with a rake, then stretch a garden line across it and tramp furrows about a foot wide and a foot apart. In these furrows sow sprouted seed and cover it ^^ or ^ of an inch with soil raked from between the furrows with the head of the rake. If the seed is sown broadcast, tramp the whole bed down even as already directed. Such a bed will become green in a week or more and will be in good condition to stand the excessive heat of the sun.

Watch the seed bed and, if necessary, tramp it again, though the plants have been up two or three weeks or more. As previously instructed, tramp the bed after a rain, in case it needs tramping; but if no rain falls, then soak the bed with water and tramp after the water has settled away. No injury to the plants will result if the tramping be carefully done.

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IX. How TO Get Early Plants Without Hot Beds

This may be done by using plant-bed cloth. Tack the cloth to unglassed sash, or frames, made of strips of wood. Medium grade cloth will do, but heavy grade is better. The cloth

Frame of Plant-Bed Cloth.

will protect the plants against moderate frost, but in time of severe cold they should be further protected by straw or matting laid over the cloth. This early protection should be removed, however, as soon as the weather will permit.

X. To Grow Early Celery

Early celery is planted the same way as the late crop, in rows from 45^ to 5 feet apart, with the plants from 5 to 6 inches apart in the rows. The plants should be set carefully to avoid bruising. The ground must be well pulverized and level. The rows should be prepared by stretching a line and tramping down with the feet crosswise of the hne one way, but in coming back with one foot lengthwise. Remove the Hne and wet down the rows. A good way to do this is to take the sprinkHng attachment off the water can and use the can with the open spout. Soak the rows thoroughly before setting the plants. Wet them until there are no dry places underneath and until the holes made for the plants will stand open. When the soil is dry much wetting will be necessary, but when it is already quite moist, less will be required. In very dry weather, the plants should be sprinkled, ^vhich should always be done towards evening. Perhaps it is unnecessary to say that the sprinkling attachment should be put on the can for sprinkling. If the sprinkling be done at evening, the plants will have the whole night to revive. If, however, it appear that the hot sun is getting to much for the plants, get out the boards and commence shading at once. The process of shading has already been described in chapter VII., which see.

In this chapter it has been assumed that the ground had been already prepared for the transplanting of the plants. In following chapters we shall consider how the ground should be thus prepared.

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XI

The Varieties Adapted to Early and Medium Early Crops.

For very early crops, such varieties as the Golden Heart, the Kalamazoo, the Perfection- Heartwell, are well adapted; for medium early, plant such varieties as the White Plume and the Golden Self-Bleaching. But in a very dry climate, where irrigation must be depended upon, plant the varieties recommended in chapter II.

XII. Two OR More Crops in the Same Field

If only one crop is to be raised on the same field, it can be planted quite close, with the rows not more than 4 or 4^ feet apart. But for two crops on the same field, the rows of the first should be at least 6 feet apart. Later, the second crop should be planted between the rows of the first. The first should be planted early in May; the second, by the middle of June. The first is taken out by the middle of July. Then if it is desired to raise a third crop on the same ground, it must be planted as soon as the first

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crop is harvested, in the place from which it has been removed.

For this late or third crop, plant the Giant Paschal or Boston Market varieties. These kinds will stand the late frosty weather better than any other sort. The second crop must be harvested early; and to prevent freezing, the third crop must be hilled up as soon as the second is taken out.

If only two crops are grown, then there is no particular necessity of getting the first crop out before the 15th or 20th of August. It should be out by that time, however. It appears that blight attacks this older crop then much quicker than it does the youager celery, planted later.

If celery is desired for late August or early September, provide a bed of plants and get them in nice growing condition, ready to be transplanted about the 25th, or last of May. Set them out about that time and keep them in growing condition. If well worked they will escape blight and celery will be had at the time desired.

For particulars concerning blight, see chapter on blight.

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XIII. Tillage in Dry Weather

To what has already been said, in chapter XII., we will add only this: On upland the plants should be set deep, and it they show signs of being too dry, water them thoroughly. One thorough watering will be more effective than five half done. To set the plants deep means to set them in furrows 6 inches deep or deeper. If they are set thus, when they are watered, the water will run towards the plants where it is needed.

Use the Planeit Jr., double or single wheel

Stirring the Soil.

hoe, close to the rows after watering to prevent the earth from baking. Of course, the hoeing should not be done until half a day or a day after the plants have been watered. This will give the water time to settle. Water as often as the plants show that they need it, or, better still examine the soil and water the plants as often as it appears to be dry. The growth of the ciop is thus prevented from receiving any check. Checks in the growth of celery afford opportunity for blight to attack it.

If the plants seem to be growing out little or not at all, but this is not due to lack of moisture, then drill in a fertilizer at the next watering. Drill it in just before watering so that it may be dissolved, washed down and act upon the roots of the plants. You will thus renew the growth of the plants and prevent blight in seasons of blight.

XIV. Ditches

Ditches are not needed on upland to any extent. Good open furrows that will carry off the surplus water from heavy rains is about all that is needed. But on low land ditching is a matter of much importance.

On low land, where ditches are needed to carry off the water from rains, springs and other sources, it is advisable to run the ditches lengthwise of the piece. For instance, if the patch is 40 rods long and 10 rods wide, dig the ditch the 40 rod way. Both ends being open, the ditches on low land should be two feet wide and two feet deep. On very wet, springy soil, make them deeper and wider. Just how far apart the ditches should be is difficult to tell without seeing the ground. However, we will give some general dii;ections. Here in Kalamazoo, Mich., there are some three kinds of black muck to deal with; the ordinary, dry; the quite wet; the very wet and springy. On the first mentioned, the ditches should be 8 or 10 rods apart; on the second they should be about 4 rods apart; on the last, 2 rods. We are unable to get on to the last kind here with a horse, therefore, the manure must be spaded under in the spring with a spading fork. It costs a great deal of labor to work such patches of celery ground. Here, they are depended upon in August and early September.

Besides the ditches already described, there must be a cross ditch at each end to carry the water from the other ditches to some outlet. If water stand on the patch for a couple of days it will ruin the crop if the celery is well grown; but if the plants are young they will outgrow the bad effect after a Icng time. Care should be taken to have ample drainage, that such a catastrophe be avoided.

In very dry weather dam up the ditches on the ends that no water may escape. However, never allow the water to stand on a level with the edge of the ditch. It may stand at the most within one foot of the edge, and then for a few days only. If the land gives an abundance of water, let it off once in a while. Leave the ends of the ditches open a few days that the surplus water may run off thoroughly.

XV. Tillage

This has been given quite fully in preceding chapters, therefore, I will not repeat what may be found there, but will only add a few words concerning weeds.

A patch of celery should be kept perfectly free from weeds. They should be attended to and destroyed when very small, as soon as they appear. This can be done easily then by the use of the hoe, wheel hoe or cultivator, and if thus attended to they will never be seen again. But if they get the start of you and grow to quite a size, then the best thing to do is to employ sufficient help to pull them up and carry them off. As soon as the weeding is completed, use the wheel hoe to break the crust, give the celery fresh air, and destroy the millions of weeds that are just coming up. In case the weeds get such a start that the rows of celery cannot be seen, the celery is almost beyond recovery, and the best thing to do is to destroy both weeds and celery together and plant the field over again, if not too late in the season. The new plants, if kept clean, will do better than the older ones choked with weeds.

XVI. Manures and Fertilizers

Well rotted stable manure is the best and should be used in preference to fertilizers if it can be had. Have it well rotted, especially if your field is a dry one. On very wet soil coarser manure answers the purpose. Coarse manure is productive of weeds; but where the patch is small weeds can be checked promptly. The looseness of coarse manure is an advantage.

From 20 to 40, or even 60 loads of well rotted manure may be used on an acre. It should be plowed under from 5 to 6 inches and well covered.

There are so many different kinds of commercial fertilizers on the market that it is difficult to say which is the best. A good way is to test several different kinds by using them on rows side by side. You can thus determine what kind is best adapted to your soil. Of course the fertilizer should be drilled in deep enough to be effective; and, if the weather is dry and there is no prospect of a good rain soon, soak the ground with water over the drills, so that the fertilizer will dissolve, permeate the soil and act upon the roots of the plants. Doubtless, there are, every jrear, thousands of dollars' worth of fertilizers ^own and drilled in that never do any good, simply because they are sown in dry weather and the weather continues dry. Under these conditions the fertilizer can have no effect. In purchasing fertilizers, state to the manufacturers that you wish it for growing celery, and on what kind of soil you wish to use it.

Some celery growers have their fertilizers manufactured for them according to a special formula of their own, adapted to their soil. This formula is determined by an analysis of the soil, which will be done in most cases by the state experiment station, free of cost to the applicant, except transportation charges.

XVII. Early Plants Without Expensive Hot-Beds

Use hot-bed sash and lay them on rafters as long as the sash, in the usual way. The rafters should be set up in hot-house fashion with the peak high enough to walk under. Such cheap hot-houses are sometimes made on upland with the walk in the middle dug out from 2 to 3 feet. In this way the rafters need not be so steep, and, therefore, the bed may be wider. Here, in Kalamazoo, on the muck, they are generally built 10 feet wide with a path in the middle. They should be built with the length of the house, north and south; and if the house is over 30 feet long it should have a stove at each end. The stove pipes should be close to the west side of the walk and connected in the middle by a T. There should be a door at each end, and if the sun is very hot, the door should be open to allow a draft through the house to carry off the excessive heat. In a short house, in which only one stove is needed, it may stand at one end and the pipe go out at the other. There should be a door also to avoid over heating.

Another inexpensive way of obtaining early plants is to dig a hole 2 or more feet deep, fill it in with fresh horse manure, build your frame over it, and lay on the sash. If the heat is mostly out of the manure and the temperature of it is about 70°, put on your dirt and sow the seed in the hot-house fashion as already described. The bed needs only a little well-rotted manure to make it rich. It should be worked into the soil thoroughly. There should be from 5 to 7 inches of dirt on top of the manure in the bottom of the hole. On hot days the doors should be open or the sash lifted; it may be necessary to open the doors and lift the sash both. Do not allow the temperature to rise above 95°. To prevent a higher temperature than this, take the sash off altogether, shade with brush having the green leaves on, or whitewash the glass. Should the temperature rise to 100° or more, the plants would most likely be burned.

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XVIII. Bleaching With Dirt Without Rust

The first thing to be done is to cultivate between the rows. A Planett Jr., single or double celery hiller is the best thing to use for this purpose. Hill it up first about one-half, taking great care not to hill up close against the plants. After about a week the same operation should 1 e

Double Celery tliller.

Single Celery Hiller.

gone through with again. Take great care not to bring the dirt close up against the celery. Then after a week or lo days more the earth should be drawn up close to the celery in order that it may bleach quickly. After it is bleached, harvest it at once and sell as soon as possible.

It is not advisable to do the final drawing up of the earth to the whole crop at once, but only to a row or half a row at a time, as fast as there is a demand for the celery.

After the final dressing up of the earth, the celery ought to be bleached in a week or so. Watch closely that it does not get bleached without your knowing it. The last drawing up is best done by hand, with a wide-bladed hoe, say about 12 to 18 inches wide, if the soil is muck; if upland and rather hard a hoe 8 inches wide will do. The fir^t hilling should be done carefully so that no dirt may get into the heart of the celery. If the ground is too dry, wait till it rains so that it will pack and remain where placed. If it should not rain, use boards to bleach with. In autumn the soil may be drawn up tight that the bleaching may be done quicker. Late in the season when the ground gets cooled off the bleaching takes place more slowly. If there is danger of frost, hill the celery up as high as possible and then pull the dirt over the tops with a hoe, covering the whole thing completely.

XIX. Snow-white Bleaching Without Dirt

If soil cannot be used on both sides of the rows, some other means of bleaching must be sought.

Drain tile set over the plants, one over each, will bleach them very nicely and quickly, if not too hot. Take the leaves in one hand and with the other set the tile over the plant. Some use a new bleacher made of veneering, such as berry boxes are made of. It can be wound around the plant like paper and tied on. It will last quite a long time if used carefully, and stored as soon as the bleaching is done. Still another good way is to use boards. Set one on each side, draw them up close, and hold them in place by cross cleats. Plow with a Planett Jr., hand plow a furrow up against the board on each side to exclude the air and light.