The children's city

Preface

This little book, each chapter telling of one of the walks, or jaunts, in or about the city, of two children and an older companion, is intended to help young people, their governesses, tutors, or mentors to an enjoyment and appreciation of the pleasures of New York that are free to all. And it may serve too, as a guide for adults who would become acquainted at first hand with what is most interesting and most easily accessible in our American metropolis. In it attention is always directed to what especially appeals to young eyes, and the information offered is of the kind for which youthful minds and imaginations have naturally a keen appetite.

Opening with a brief, sketchy account of Dutch, English, and Revolutionary and post-Revolutionary New York, the chapters that follow are given to excursions by land and water in which the historical landmarks and natural beauties of the city are the theme — trips down the bay, or to parks and pleasure-grounds; to excursions to the museums; to visits to the Zoological Park, the Botanical Garden, the Aquarium, etc., etc.

Many generations of children have taken their way " unwillingly to school " and gained knowledge in dull drudgery, hearing their elders unsympathetically repeat : " There is no royal road to learning." At the present day, however, parents

PREFACE

and teachers often turn work into play by smoothing the rough road of the pursuit of knowledge and making education a pleasure instead of a toil. One of the most popular as well as successful ways of arousing the interest of children in what they should know is that of taking them individually, or in classes to galleries, museums, historic sites, and other places of interest, and let them see for themselves the arts and crafts of the human brain and hand, and the wonders of Nature, — animal, vegetable and mineral. Children are inveterate questioners, and the answers they receive and the objects to which their attention is directed often leave a more lasting impression on their minds than the lessons they learn from mere text-books. No city in America offers so good an opportunity for a liberal education by intelligent observation and sympathetic description as New York. Though it has no remote historical antiquities, it has quite a respectable age of three centuries, with landmarks of the past sure to kindle children's patriotism if presented in the right light by one who knows about them. And its galleries, museums, and zoological and botanical exhibitions are of the first value and of the liveliest interest to juvenile visitors.

In taking children to visit museums or collections of living curiosities, much time is often consumed in pausing long in front of objects that have comparatively little interest for the juvenile mind, before moving on to the chief attractions, or the most valuable possessions of the special exhibition. Therefore, it is only natural that fatigue should conquer the mind and limbs long before the best exhibits of the collection have been visited.

On the other hand, people often try to see the

PREFACE

whole of a great collection on one visit, dragging the poor children that accompany them from gallery to gallery, from corridor to corridor, or from cage to cage, trying to discover what they take interest in, or, what is worse, trying to cram them hurriedly with information and bewildering their minds with too many impressions too rapidly received.

It is hoped that in this series of imaginary outings of two children and their companion, some hints may be found for other children who would like to follow in their footprints and see and enjoy what this city offers in the way of free and instructive pleasures.

It will be noted that the three people in this book always start out in an unwearied and happy mood, and talk about what they see in a perfectly natural and off-hand manner; and that the cicerone who takes the children on these trips does not attempt to show them everything, but selects only the most famous, striking, peculiar, or beautiful objects that are offered for exhibition, or those that naturally and particularly attract the attention of the children.

In several cases, it would require much endurance to cover all the ground or to see all the objects allotted to one visit. Those who follow in the footsteps of Doodle and the children, will, therefore, use their own judgment and make two or several visits instead of one as described.

The illustrations in this volume will tend to make prospective juvenile visitors to the places represented eager to see them, and will serve pleasantly to recall what has been seen.

I wish to express my thanks to the Directors of

PREFACE

the Zoological Park for valuable information most courteously supplied, to the Directors of the New York Botanical Garden and of the American Museum of Natural History for their kind permission to reproduce photographs; also to Miinsey's Magazine for the loan of the old prints from which two of the illustrations in the first chapter are made, and for permission to reproduce from its pages the view of New York in 1740.

E. S.

New York, October, 19 10.

Chapter I Introductory

In Which the Reader is Introduced to Three New Friends Who Have Not the Slightest Idea That They are Being Observed ; and in Which the Author and Reader Overhear Their Three New Friends Make Plans For Some Pleasant Outings and Learn Something About the Founding, Growth and Development of the Wonderful City of New York 1-28

Chapter II The Aquarium

In Which Jack, Nora and Doodle Visit the Aquarium and See Strange Creatures 29-53

Chapter IV A Day In The Zoological Park Part I

In Which the Long-Looked For Visit at Last Takes Place; Jack and Nora Make the Acquaintance of ]\Iany Strange Animals and Birds and Hear Stories Regarding Their Habits and Character .... 77-99

Chapter VII A Picnic By The Waterfall

In Which Jack and Nora Enjoy a Feast in the Hemlock Forest and Learn the Queer Habits and Outrageous Conduct of Some Members of the Vegetable World; After a Stroll Through the Gardens and the Botanical Museum, Return Home, Quite Tired After a Long and Happy Day 152-162

Chapter VIII A Visit To The Natural History

MUSEUM

In Which Nora, Jack and Doodle See Some Visitors From the Starry Skies ; Curiosities of the Savage Races ; Articles From the Neighbourhood of the North Pole; Make the Acquaintance of Gigantic Monsters of Pre-Historic Times; and See Many Other Things of Interest 163-193

CONTENTS

Chapter IX A Visit To The Metropolitan Museum

In Which the Children See Some Wonderful Works of Man's Hand; Learn of Ancient Countries and Their Arts ; and Become Acquainted With Some Masterpieces of Architecture, Sculpture and Painting 194-231

Chapter X Morningside And Riverside Parks

In Which Doodle Points Out the Historical Landmarks and Delights the Children With Some Romantic Stories of the Hudson River Until the Goblin of the Dunderberg Calls up a Thunderstorm That Sends Them Scurrying Home . . . 232-247

Chapter XI A Trip To The Statue Of Liberty

In Which Jack and Nora Enjoy a Blow on the Bay; Visit the Eighth Wonder of the World ; and are Reminded by Doodle That the Great City of New York Was Once the Little Town of New Amsterdam 248-260

Appendix

Directions For Reaching the Museums and Other Points of Interest Described in This Book, With Other Useful Information 261-266

ILLUSTRATIONS

Curtis Flying over the Statue of Liberty, May, 1910 . . Frontispiece

FACING PAGE

View of New Amsterdam, now New York (after Mon-

tanus) 3

Fort George and the town of New York from the South

West in 1740. From a Lithograph by George Hayward . 14

View of Broadway in 1840, between Howard and Grand

Streets. From a Lithograph by George Hayward . . 21 New York To-Day, View from Madison Square. MetropoHtan Life Insurance Building in the centre. Flatiron Building on the right and Madison Square

Tower on the left 28

Aquarium — an Interior View 33

Sea-Horses 48

The Mall, Northern End 53

Map of Central Park 58

Bethesda Fountain and the Lake 60

Baseball in Central Park — a Summer Afternoon ... 71

The Obelisk 74

Map of the Zoological Park 79

Baird Court 83

Dreaming of the Wild 87

Flying-Cage 90

Gunda 94

A Shower Bath for the Ostriches 117

The Nubian Giraffes 124

ILLUSTRATIONS

FACING PAGE

General Plan of Botanical Gardens 133

Court of the Public Conservatories 149

The Waterfall in Hemlock Grove 156

The Museum Building 161

The American Museum of Natural History .... 167

Hall of North American Ethnology 170

Eskimo Woman Fishing through the Ice 176

The Allosaurus and the Brontosaurus 188

North American Waterfowl 193

The Metropolitan Museum 197

Hall of Casts 204

Plan of the First Floor 208

Plan of the Second Floor 213

Friedland, 1807 220

The Horse Fair 231

Cathedral of St. John the Divine overlooking Morningside Park. From a Photograph by Mr. Lewis W.

Davidson 234

A Vista of Riverside Park and Grant's Tomb. Captain Tom Baldwin is sailing in his dirigible balloon over the English Battleship Drake. From a Photograph Taken during the Hudson-Fulton Celebration . . . 241 View of New York from the Harbour 256

Chapter I Introductory

IN WHICH THE READER IS INTRODUCED TO THREE NEW FRIENDS WHO HAVE NOT THE SLIGHTEST IDEA THAT THEY ARE BEING OBSERVED; AND IN WHICH THE AUTHOR AND READER OVERHEAR THEIR THREE NEW FRIENDS MAKE PLANS FOR SOME PLEASANT OUTINGS AND LEARN SOMETHING ABOUT THE FOUNDING, GROWTH AND DEVELOP- MENT OF THE WONDERFUL CITY OF NEW YORK.

It was four o'clock. The study door opened, and in came Jack and Nora on their daily visit to their much-loved Doodle.

Doodle was a relative, — whether an uncle or an aunt I will leave you to guess; and, although a Grown-Up, was so perfectly satisfactory to Jack and Nora that this unfortunate failing was forgiven, and occasionally overlooked entirely. Sometimes they wished that Doodle had not leaped the mysterious barrier that divides romantic childhood from that cold, unsympathetic, peculiar and utterly commonplace world where most Grown-Ups dwell. It would have been even nicer if Doodle had waited until old Father Time should force them to leave the pleasant Valley of Childhood, where the flowers

I are always blooming and the birds are always singing, and been of their own delightful age (Jack was ten and Nora nine), but they made the most of the sad circumstance, and enjoyed as much of Doodle's society as the latter could afford to give them, charitably overlooking Doodle's rare but occasional lapses and back-slidings from their golden world.

Four o'clock was a longed-for hour, for then they had the privilege of coming to the study for a delightful hour with Doodle. One day they would read a story together or they would each tell a story of their own; one day they would have a little chat or chatter; another day they would play a game of some kind for which pencils and paper were required; and on another occasion they would paint or draw; but whatever they did was always pleasurable. Sometimes they would find Doodle busy arranging that enormous desk, so full of mysterious pigeon-holes and drawers containing so many envelopes, neatly labelled and filled with scraps of writing and countless tracings and pictures of all sizes and kinds. That desk was a treasurehouse. No genie's cave was ever more mysterious or richer with gems unseen ; — buried in the dark depths. Then Doodle's books were also fascinating — they always answered every question Nora and Jack asked. Many of them were illustrated, too, with beautifully coloured plates, or quaint old-fashioned wood-cuts. Doodle's den was an ideal place, indeed.

" I was wondering as you came in," said Doodle, " if you two children, who have lived all your lives in New York, really know anything about this great city. You are at home in Fifth Avenue, Broadway,

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Battery Park, Twenty-third street, Forty-second street, the upper West side and many side streets up-town and down-town, and you travel in the Elevated and the Subway and know all the sights and sounds of the streets; but I wonder if you are really acquainted with New York? "

There was a pause.

" Do you know that New York is one of the largest, richest and most wonderful cities in the world?"

" Oh yes, we know that very well," answered the children together; and here before going any further I must explain that Jack and Nora frequently spoke in the plural. It was generally '' we " and ** us " ; for they had always shared each other's studies and pleasures.

" I wonder if you know New York^s histoiy, or if you have ever visited any of the buildings and places connected with the past! Do you know the City Hall? Fraunces Tavern? Trinity Church? St. Paul's? St. Mark's? Can you tell me anything about the Battery? Do you know how the Bowery got its name? Why Bowling-Green was called Bowling-Green? Do you know where General Washington bade farewell to his army? Where he was inaugurated President of the United States? Do you know anything about Fort Amsterdam and Fort George? "

To all these questions the children shook their heads.

" Well then, have you enjoyed the many pleasures that our great city offers to all — rich and poor, young and old — alike ? '*

" What do you mean, Doodle? "

*' I mean this: Have you ever been to the Metropolitan Museum? To the Natural History Museum? To the Aquarium? To the Zoological Park? To the Botanical Gardens? Have you walked through Central Park with your eyes really open? "

" No," was the answer to all these questions.

" Then how would you like to take some pleasant outings with me, so that we may learn something about our city. The bright, spring days have come. What do you say to a little jaunt once a week?"

" Do you really mean it ? " came from both delighted children.

" Indeed I do," answered Doodle.

" Shall we begin to-morrow ? " asked Jack and Nora.

" No ; not to-morrow. Not until next Monday ; for I want to tell you something about old New York before we start on our excursions. I want to give you an idea of what our city w^as like at various periods. I want to tell you about Dutch New York; English New York; New York in the days of the Revolution ; and New York in the Nineteenth Century."

" Can't you tell us now ? " asked the children eagerly,

Dutch New York.

" Of course I can," replied Doodle leaving the desk and taking a comfortable chair. " Nora, you can sit on my knee, and Jack, you can bring a chair for yourself; but first hand me the atlas. Turn to the map of the world, Jack, and find New York. Now look on the other side of the Atlantic ocean and find Holland. It is a long distance away from us, isn't it? More than three thousand miles! Now, Nora, you please turn to the map of Holland ; and put your finger, if you please, on Amsterdam. You will notice that this city lies on a big sheet of water called the Zuyder Zee ; or, to be more exact, it lies on an ami of the Zuyder Zee called the Y (pronounced eye).

" At the beginning of the Seventeenth Century Amsterdam was a very rich and splendid city — .one of the very richest cities in Europe. She was such an important port that she was often called ' Queen of the Seas.' A merchant vessel was her seal and her harbour was always full of ships arriving and departing for countries near and far. Amsterdam contained fine old churches and public buildings and many of her canals were lined on both sides with the homes of rich citizens. These were filled with splendid furniture, beautiful paintings, rare pieces of porcelain, delicate specimens of glass, articles of silver and gold, artistically worked, fine Turkey rugs and carpets and many curiosities from the Far East. The Dutch were always great sailors and explorers, and they were among the first to trade with China and Japan. The Exchange in Amsterdam was a world famous money-market and the celebrated Bank of Amsterdam, established in 1609, was almost as rich and important as the Bank of England. In 1602 the merchants of Amsterdam founded the East India Company to regulate all matters of foreign trade ; and among the many persons this company employed was an Englishman, named Henry Hudson, whom they sent out in 1609 to see if he could find a new way to reach the East Indies by a northwest passage. I suppose I need not tell you that this boat was named —

" The Half Moon! " exclaimed Nora. " We saw it last September at the Hudson-Fulton Celebration."

" No, dear, you did not see the Half Moon, you saw a reproduction of it; but I am glad you saw this boat, for I need not describe it. Well, let us go on. The crew that Henry Hudson commanded consisted of from sixteen to twenty men, some of whom were Dutch and some English.

" On the first of September, 1609, Hudson beheld the Highlands of Navesink, which he described as ' very good land to fall in with and a pleasant land to see.' The next day he sailed around what we now call Sandy Hook; and on the day after that he anchored in the bay off the Jersey shore. On the 6th of September, he sent a little boat out to explore the coast. She passed through the Narrows and came in sight of Manhattan Island; but, sad to relate, the boat was attacked by two canoes filled with Indians and one of the party, named John Coleman, was instantly killed by an arrow that pierced his throat.

** Five days later Hudson took the Half Moon through the Narrows and anchored in New York Harbour, where he was visited by the Indians who brought presents of Indian corn and tobacco, beads and other strange things. On September 12, Hudson sailed up the river, which now bears his name, as far as Albany. He sailed on October 4th for Holland ; and as soon as he reached Amsterdam and reported his great discovery, describing in glowing terms the noble river and the fertile country covered with beautiful trees, grass and flowers, the abundance of the grain and vegetables produced by the Indians, and, better than all, the profusion of furs to be had, the merchants of Amsterdam agreed that the new country offered every advantage for settlers and traders that could be desi-red. So they were not very long, you may believe, in fitting out trading vessels and hurrying them to Manhattan for more detailed reports. When these came back with good accounts, the Amsterdam merchants made arrangements to establish an agency on Manhattan Island and to send ships regularly back and forth. The little trading-post now established on the south point of the Island commanded by Hendrick Corstiaensen, soon increased in numbers and was formed into the United New Netherland Company.

" In the meantime, the merchants and bankers in Holland formed in the year 1621 a great association called the West India Company to settle all matters of trade and government, treaties with the Indians and all questions that might arise with regard to the government of the new colony. In 1623 the West India Company sent out its first boat, the New Netherland. She brought thirty families, who were landed near the present site of Albany where they made a settlement. The New Netherland returned in the course of a few weeks with 500 otter skins, 1500 beavers and other freight worth about $12,000 — a big sum in those days. This staunch old boat, the New Netherland, went backwards and forwards between Old Amsterdam and New Amsterdam for thirty years !

" It was soon decided that the headquarters should be on Manhattan Island ; and ships were sent out with settlers and their families who were supplied with horses, cattle, hogs, sheep, seeds, farmingtools, household furniture and other necessities for making a permanent colony. Altogether, about 200 persons came.

" In 1626 the Sea Mew brought among its passengers Peter Minuit, whom the West India Company sent out to be the Director-General, or Governor, of the settlement. The first thing that Peter Minuit did was to buy the Island of Manhattan from the Manhattan Indians; what do you think he paid for it?"

'' Millions and millions of dollars," Jack quickly answered.

" Not a bit of it ! Sixty guilders — that is twenty-four dollars! Think of it — the whole of Manhattan Island (about 22,000 acres) for only twenty-four dollars ! "

" What would the Dutch have to pay for it to-day, Doodle," asked Jack, " if they could buy it from us? "

" About four and a half billions of dollars, I should say," answered Doodle. " Well, let us go on with our story.

" The Arms of Amsterdam was another boat that was sent out in 1626. She returned to Amsterdam with a great many skins of beaver, otter and mink, and a great deal of timber; and, best of all, carried the news that Peter Minuit had bought the Island of Manhattan for the Dutch.

" The colonists now made a fort, which they named Fort Amsterdam ; and then they built a mill which was worked by horse. The second floor of the mill they arranged for a meeting-place where they could have religious services; for the Dutch were always very religious and great church-going people.

'' The Company's House was a stone building with a thatched roof; but the dwelhng-houses of the settlers grouped around it, were of wood. Fort Amsterdam was finished in 1628. In this year the colony numbered 270 persons, including children.

*' The West India Company gave to each settler a farm, stocked with cattle, and allowed him garden seeds and tools ; and for this the tenant had to pay a portion of his profits. Just as a flame will spread from one blade of grass to another until a whole field is burning, so the enthusiasm for emigration spread, and ship after ship left Amsterdam crowded with passengers and packed with cattle and supplies.

" On one of the quays in the harbor of Amsterdam you can see to-day an old round stone tower that was built five hundred years ago. It is called the ' Weepers' Tower ' (the Dutch name is Schreyerstoren), because from it people were accustomed to wave their tearful farewells to friends on departing ships ; and from it many and many with aching heart and tearful eye have watched the vessels sail out into the Zuyder Zee on their long voyage to New Amsterdam in the unknown western world. The Atlantic trip w^as full of dangers; and the new colony held many hardships, privations and perils in store for those who had decided to brave the terrors of the sea and seek their fortunes in a new world. In family partings hearts beat with the same emotions three hundred years ago as they do to-day and those who stood on the Weepers' Tower and watched the Arms of Amsterdam, or the New Netherland, or the Sea Mew, or the Gilded Fox, bearing their loved ones away, wept long and bitterly before they could go back to their daily duties and daily pleasures. And remember, too, lO THE CHILDREN'S CITY

how long, how very, very long it was in those days before they could hear any news of the good ship! "

" How long did it take to get here ? " asked Nora.

" The voyage lasted from seven to eight weeks, and the travellers were more than glad when their boat passed through the Hoof den (as they called the Narrows) and approached the little settlement. The people on Manhattan were glad, too, to hear news from home, to welcome friends and relatives who had been induced to join them, and to receive supplies; so, whenever a ship was seen in the distance, they raised a flag on the tall flagstaff of Fort Amsterdam in greeting."

" Where did the boats land ? " asked Jack.

" The anchorage ground was the roadstead between Kapske Point (South Ferry) and the head of Coenties Slip near the City Tavern on the East River; and ships that landed anywhere else were compelled to pay a fine."

" The town was soon laid out in streets and lots and cut through with canals. It was also protected by a strong palisade with gates that were shut at night ; and, in case of an attack by the Indians, everybody could seek refuge behind the walls of the Fort. The houses were built along the lines of the Fort and the river shore, which extended to Pearl Street and from Whitehall to Broad. It was called the Strand.

" There was also a road from the Fort to the Ferry, which crossed to Brooklyn, and a stockade at Wall Street, where the city ended.

" Some of the houses were built of brick and stone with tiled roofs and some were of wood with brick chimneys.

" Would you like it if an old Dutch traveller

INTRODUCTORY II

could suddenly come into this room and tell us how the city looked when he saw it more than three hundred years ago?"

** Oh, indeed, I should ! " cried Jack.

''Indeed, I shouldn't!" cried Nora. "I'm afraid of ghosts! "

" Well I am going to ask him to come. Nora, your eyes need not grow so round and you need not look at me so questioningly. Jack, open the third drawer of my desk and hand me that large yellow envelope marked New York Seventeenth Century, Ah! here is what I want.

" Here is a note from an old traveller, named Montanus, who came to New Amsterdam and was much delighted wath all that he saw. Now Jack suppose you read what he has to say about the city as it was in 1671 ; and for the moment we will imagine that you are Mr. Montanus."

Jack obligingly consented and read as follows:

" ' On the Manhattan's Island stands New Amsterdam, five miles from the ocean: ships run up to the harbour there from the sea with one tide. The city hath an earthen fort. Within the fort and on the outermost bastion towards the river, stand a windmill and a very high staff, on which a flag is hoisted whenever any vessels are seen in Godyn's Bay. The church rises with a double roof between which a square tower looms aloft. On one side is the prison, on the other side of the church, the Governor's house. Without the walls are the houses mostly built by the Amsterdamers. On the river side stand the gallows and the whipping-post. A handsome public tavern adorns the farthest point. Between the fort and this tavern is a row of suitable dwelling-houses : among which stand out the warehouses of the West India Company.' "

*' Thank you, Mr. Montanus," said Doodle, " Now I will tell the rest.

" The houses were built in the quaint style of those at home with crow-stepped roofs, pointed gables and dormer windows and the sills and gardens were bright with flowers. Of course they had tulips (you know the Dutch were crazy about tulips) and gilliflowers and red and white roses and lilies and violets and all the native flowers they found here — sunflowers and red and white lilies and morning-glories, — and all the native vegetables and fruits. Behind many of the houses were splendid orchards of peaches, pears and apples. The West India Company had a large garden on Broadway not far from the Fort, which was cultivated by the Company's negroes.

" You sometimes hear that the Dutch lived very simply and poorly in the early days of New Amsterdam. Of course this was true of the poor people, the small farmers, the servants and the workmen; but the wealthy colonists had everything in their houses here that their rich relatives had in old Amsterdam.

" Their homes were filled with fine furniture — rich ebony chairs; chairs covered with leather and made comfortable with cushions; East India cabinets full of curiosities; great nutwood cases, or wardrobes, called hasten, in which they kept their clothes and treasures- and cupboards with glass doors, filled with china from the East and blue and white flowered ware from Holland. Bright curtains draped the beds and hung at the windows; the tables were covered with Turkey rugs; looking-glasses brightened the walls; and many families had large collections of paintings. So you see there were wealth, style and elegance in New York from its earliest days.

" New Amsterdam was also a town of pleasure. The old Dutch burghers and their families did more than smoke their pipes and knit their socks as some people would have us believe. They had wedding- feasts and christening-parties; they went to church in rich attire, carrying silver-clasped Bibles in their hands; they had sleighing and skating in the winter and picnic parties in the summer; games and masquerades at Shrovetide; May-poles and many games in the spring; frolics at Whitsuntide ; bonfires on St. Martin's Eve ; cattle-markets and fairs in the autumn; hunting, fishing, bowling and golfing; archery matches; and special feasting and fun at Christmas, New Year's Day and Twelfth Night. The greatest holiday of all, however, was December 6, — St. Nicholas Day. St. Nicholas, patron of sailors and patron of old Amsterdam, was chosen to be the patron saint of New Amsterdam. The church in the fort was St. Nicholas's Church, and St. Nicholas's Day, or Eve rather, was the favourite of all holidays. This was the time they made the special St. Nicholas cakes and the marchpane and gilded the nuts and put their little wooden shoes (not stockings) but wooden shoes by the chimney for St. Nicholas tO' fill. And St. Nicholas never made a mistake. To the good children he brought presents and sweet meats and nice surprises; and to the naughty ones — I hardly like to tell you, — guess I You can't ? Well, then, — a switchT