Dedication
TO MY LOVING AND LOYAL
WIFE
WHO HAS BEEN MY FAITHFUL COMPANION
Preface
THE first of my five trips to Europe was made in 1882. Mr. S. Gurney Lapham, Dean of the Editorial Fraternity of Syracuse, who was at that time editor of the Courier, asked me to contribute to his paper during my travels, and at the same time suggested that I give only my personal impressions of places seen and persons met. I did so and, on my return home, found my letters had given so much satisfaction that I fully appreciated the practical foresight of n^y distinguished friend.
Sherlock Holmes said: "People do not always notice what they see." Reflecting on that statement I have since tried, when writing for entertainment, to make note of everything worth seeing and to describe every incident worth hearing about. Many books of travel are so highly flavored with the tincture of well worn guide books that they are seldom accused of much originality. I have followed no set itinerary or chronological order in my account of travels but have given my experiences as they came to mind.
Many thousands of people have already gone to Europe and many are yet to go. For the former this book may revive pleasant recollections of places visited; the latter may possibly profit from experiences herein related.
While traveling I secured several hundred photographic views with my trusty camera and have used some
vii of them to illustrate this work. Addresses, essays, etc., heretofore published in the press, are reproduced at the request of friends who wish to preserve them in more permanent form.
Syracuse, N. Y., March 28, 1910. 307 West Genesee street.
vin
CHAPTER II Italy 4-68
Naples 4
A Collection of Antiques 7
A Visit to Capri 8
The Blue Grotto 10
The Ruins of Pompeii 12
Tivoli 13
In the Gorge of the Anio 14
Vincenza 18
A Landslide 19
A Midnight Peril 20
Verona 22
St. Mark's, Gem of the Adriatic ... 24
St. Mark's, Venice 26
Fratres Misericordiae 28
Rome 29
The Great Basilica 30
Christ in the Temple 30
A Sojourn on the Roof of St. Peter's . 31
The Vatican 32
The Ancient Forum 33
The Mamertine 34
Santa Scala 35
ix
The Catacombs of St. Calista .... 36
The Capuchin Catacombs 37
The Church of St. Paul 38
The Treasury of St. Paul's ..... 40
The Chapel of the Three Fountains . , 41
The Church of the Twelve Apostles . 41
From St. Peter's Dome 42
A Modern Plebeian 44
The Mystic City 45
The Carnival of Venice 48
The First Pawn Shop 50
Genoa 51
Pisa 54
The Inferno 54
Coronation of Pius X 56
The Campo Santo of Genoa 61
Masterpiece of Art 62
Sneering Jays 65
Head of John the Baptist 65
A Sudden Transformation .... 67 CHAPTER HI
Paris 69-90
Up in a Balloon 72
Tomb of Napoleon 73
The Pantheon . 73
A Wonderful Yankee 74
Notre Dame • . 76
The Madelein \ 76
From a Drop of Oil to a Tragedy . . 78
Tipped the Wrong Man 82
The Fall of the Bastile 83
On the Eiffel Tower 84
In the Bois de Bolougne 86
A Bull Fight in Paris 88
X
CHAPTER IV Story Telling on Board Ship 91-147
The Story of the Stranger 93
A Severe Initiation 96
Adjourned for Dinner 99
A Lively Dining Room 100
A Howling Swell 100
An Iceberg 101
A Theological Surprise 103
A Rough Reception 105
A Disastrous Tumble 106
A Cruel Exhibition 107
"One of the Finest" 108
In the Role of an Artist 109
The Draft Riots HI
An Auspicious Beginning 115
An Unexpected Rebuff 116
A Man from Jayville 119
A Midnight Stroll on Deck 122
The Rising Moon 123
A Plagiarizing Ingrate 124
A Base Ball Challenge 131
A Time Serving Hypocrite .... 132
Hideous Ingratitude 134
A Trio of Apt Aphorisms 136
An Unwlecome "Compagnon de Voyage" 136
Old Flan, The Handy Man .... 143
A Penalty of Patriotism 146
Switzerland 170-183
Riding 'Through the Alps 172
Tomb of St. Charles Borromeo . . . 173
The Last Supper 176
Beautiful Lucerne 177
Fin and Feather Battle 180
An Incident at the Waage 181
CHAPTER VIII Ireland 184-243
The Tipping Nuisance 186
Love of Country 188
"Irish Philosophers" 190
"Artistic Culture" 191
Irishmen in History ....... 192
Irishmen Rule ......... 201
A Thrilling Ride 204
Mistaken for Orangemen 205
Belfast 208
The Blarney Stone 211
Their "Lordships" 212
A Dublin Cabby 213
Valley of the Seven Churches ... 213
The Meeting of the Waters .... 217
zii
Blarney Castle 218
Waterford 222
Shandon 224
The Lakes of Killarney 226
A Tumble Down the Mountain Side . 229
Innisfallen 230
Gougane Barra 232
Trials of a Tourist 234
Vexation on Land, Storm at Sea . . . 234
A Rambling Reviler 241
CHAPTER X Tower of London 249
The British Museum 252
The opening of the book is shown; the full text loads in the reader.
Loading the full text…
The end
You’ve reached the end of Incidents of European travel ....