A history of old Tioga Point and early Athens, Pennsylvania ...

Front matter

rO

Tior.A Point Valley, i-rom PR..-i;.^i

I'aiiited by Montalaiit. 1856

Part I History Of Tioga Point Before The Settlement By Whites

1614-1791

PAGE CHAPTER I. — Tioga Point: — Geographical and Scenic Description — Athens Toumship and Borough — Some Observations on the Physiography and Geology of the J 'alley — fossils of the Manunalian Era Found Along the Tioga River 3

CHAPTER II. — The American Indian : — The Aborigines of the Upper Susquehanna before the coming of the White Man — Indian Xames for Tioga Point — Its Importance as Key of the J'alley — Indian Customs and Modes of Living 20

CHAPTER III. — Early Explorations: — The Results as Shozi'n in Old Maps — First Visits of White Men to the Vicinity of Tioga Point — The Susquehanna and its Discoverers 29

CHAPTER IV. — The Andastes: — The Car-an-tou-ans and their Toicns on the Upper Susquehanna ; Car-an-tou-an, Os-co-lu-i, Go-hon-to-to. 0-noch-sa-c, Tenk-gha-nack-e and Others — Spanish Hill; Location. Description, Origin, Occupation, Name and Traditions — Some Curious Relics Found on Tioga Point and Nearby 43

CHAPTER V. — Aboriginal History Continued: — From Expulsion of Andastes to the Revolutionary Jl'ar — The French and Indian JVar Teedyuscung and the Treaties TO

CHAPTER VI.— Old Sheshequin :— T/ir Tivo Ton'ns—The Moravian

Mission — Queen Esther and Her Toz'^ni 103

CHAPTER VII.— Early Temporary Settlements :—T/!f White Settlers in this Vicinity Prior to the Revolution — Tories on the Upper Susquehanna — Tioga Point and Neighborhood During the Revolutionary War Preparations for the Descent on Wyoming — Flight of the Fugitives Indian Dances or Festivals 115

CHAPTER VIII.— Revolutionary Campaigns in This Valley :—r/u' Sullivan Expedition, and Its Forerunner, Commanded by Colonel Hartley Some New Lights on Their History — Life in Fort Sulliz'an — Cherry I 'alley Massacre 127

CHAPTER IX. — Conditions After 1779: — Border Raids Continued — Narratives of Scouts and Captives — Teaoga Abandoned by the Red Men The Narrative of the Indian Girl JJ^ay-Zi.'ay 166 vi TABLE OF CONTENTS

PAGE

CHAPTER X. — Indian Councils: — The Pickering Treaties at Tioga Point, Nezvtozvn and Canandaigua — Colonel Proctor's Mission and Journal — Indian Traders and Trading Posts at and near Tioga Point.. 171

CHAPTER XL — Results of Archaeological Research: — Indian J'illage Sites, Burial Places, Potteries and Flint Factories in the Tioga Point Region — Accounts of the Investigations of Messrs. Wright, Murray, Ercanbrack, Lang and Others 195

CHAPTER Xn. — Visitors to Old Tioga Point: — Early Travelers

Through the Valley — Their Impressions and Observations 210

Part II The Connecticut Claim

1734-1798

CHAPTER XIII. — The General Land Controversy: — A Feiv Outlines,

Queries, Answers and Reflections 221

CHAPTER XIV. — The Permanent Settlement of the Valley: — Pennsylvania Titles Under Province and State — The Coming of the First Settlers — Matthias Hollenback and "Hollenback's Store" — Lockhart's Lottery Warrant — The Establishment of the State Line — Effect of the Decree of Trenton — John Franklin — The Half-Share Men or "Wild Yankees" — Cause of the Settlement of Ulster and Athens — Tlie Netv State Project — The Intercepted Letters — Franklin Imprisoned- — The Connecticut Gore 235

CHAPTER XV.— The Pioneers :—T/!r Original Proprietors of Athens The Beginnings of the Settlement — Excitement Over Indian Murders First Suit in Local Controversy — Erwin's Claim — Many Newcomers Franklin Released — Renezved Activity of Susquehanna Company — Second New State Scheme — Agitation Over tlic Intrusion Lazu — Conditions of Trade — General Town History to lygS .300

Part III The Pennsylvania Claim

1798-1830

CHAPTER XVI. — The Pennsylvania Claim : — The Coming of the Pennsylvania Claimants to Tioga Point — Their Various Experiences and Experiments — Another Epoch of Anticipated Greatness as Told in Old Letters — Effect of the Compromise Lazv and Preznous Acts — The Controversy that Grezv Out of the Enforcement of Lockhart's Claim 353

CHAPTER XVII. — Adjustment of Titles: — Tioga Point at the Opening of the Century— Agitation Caused by Attempted Enforcement of the Intrusion Law — Work of the Commissioners Under the Compensation Law — History of Ulster Township — Rejection of Bedford, Ulster and Athens — Last Efforts of the Susquehanna Company — The Satterlee- Matthezvson Controversy — The Bedford and Ulster Act — Work of the Commissioners of i8io — Final Adjustment of Connecticut Claims — Conditions of Trade— War of 1812— Militia 397

TABLE OF CONTENTS vii

PAGE

CHAPTER XVIII. — Settlement of Claims: — Catoii's Interest and Its Adjustment — Many Propositions for the Indian Arrozv — Erection of Bradford County — Polities and Parties in New Bradford — The Washingtonian and Its Career — Renewal of W elles-Mathewson Controversy as a Party Issue — Seven Years Before the Legislature — The Final Settlement in 1827 — Disposition of Caton's Lands 440

PART IV GENERAL HISTORY 1785-1860 CHAPTER XIX.— Annals of Early Athens -.—1813-1860 481

CHAPTER XX. — Development of Highways and Transportation : — Indian Trails — Bridle Paths — Waterivays — Post Routes — Stage Coaches Roads — Canals — Railroads 519

CHAPTER XXI. — Pioneer Life: — Homes of the Pioneers — Old Time Sports, Hunting, Fishing — Social Entertainments — Early Industries, Distilleries, Sazu Mills, Grist Mills. JVoolen Mills — Fires and Fire Companies 537

CHAPTER XXII. — School and Church History: — School Lands — Early Schools — The Athens Academy — Church Organization — Some Early Pastors 545

CHAPTER XXIII. — Early Professional Men : — Early Physicians — Early

Lazuyers — Rural Amity Lodge. No. 70 — Early Nczi'spapers 562

CHAPTER XXIV.— A Summary:— .-i/o;;g the Old Stage Road— The

Neighbors 575

Bibliography 587

Note of Thanks 590

Appendix

A. Remonstrance of Henry Welles 591

B. Constant Mathewson's Letter 622

C. Henry Welles' Speech 627

D. List of Taxables in Tioga Tozvnship, 1796 632

E. List of Taxables, Tioga Point and Athens, 1808 635

F. List of Revolutionary Soldiers Who Lived in this Vicinity 636

Index 639

ILLUSTRATIONS

Cover design, after pottery from the garden of the author, draz^'ii bv Gilbert S. McClintock.

Tioga Point Valley, northward from Prospect froiitisfiece

We are indebted to the skill of Mr. Irving K. Park for this fine reproduction of the landscape painted by Joseph O. Montalant in 1856, nozv in the xvriter's possession. Montalant ivas a French- Virginian. He eventually drifted to Europe and attained some note as a landscape painter.

Tioga Point Valley, northward from the Turn-o'-the-Rocks, from an old

print of 1841, artist unknown Title Page

PAGE

Tioga. Point to-day, pJwtographed by Irving K. Park Facing 3

Tioga Point Valley from Round Top, photographed by I. K. Park. ..Facing 6

Fossils from Chemung Rocks 10

Tioga Point fossils 11

The Chemung near Wilawana. photograplicd by E. C. Tracy 19

"Figurative Map" of Block and Hendricksen, original found at The Hague hy T. R. Brodhead in 1S51, copied by Jessie IV. Murray from JJ'insor's

Narrative and Critical History, by courtesy Houghton and MUHin 31

Section of Champlain's Map of 1632, copied by J. W. Murray 37

Section of Lewis Evans' Map of Middle British Colonies, 1743, sketched

by Rev. David Craft 38

Section of map from Reading Howell's Atlas, 1795, copied by J. W. Murray. 40

Along the Susquehanna, photographed by Irving K. Park 42

Spanish Hill from southeast 51

Spanish Hill from northeast, photographed by Isaac P. Shepard 56

Diagrams of Spanish Hill, showing contour and line of fortifications, drazi'ii

by I. P. Shepard 58

Relics found at or near Tioga Point ; cntcifi.v. medal, insignia, szvord 67

Brass crucifixes, found at Oivego by Henry E. Kingman 68

Section of map showing location of "Esther Town." made by surz'cyor zcith

Sullivan Expedition 107

Page homestead, opposite Queen Esther's Town 110

Site of Queen Esther's Town 110

Col. Thomas Hartley, from a miniature in possession of the family, copied

by the courtesy of Rev. Horace E. Haydcn 129

General John Sullivan, from an old portrait, copied for Tioga Point Historical Society, by the courtesy of Charles F. Murray, 145

Sketch maps of Fort Sullivan and Tioga Point, from pen and ink drazving in Col. Adam Hnblcy's diary, by courtesy Historical Society of Pennsylvania 151

Sketch of camp on Tioga Point. 1779. made by Nukerck, z^'ifh Sullivan's army 152

Boulder marking Fort Sullivan, erected by Tioga Chapter, D. A. R., in 1902. 165 Timothy Pickering, from a portrait hy Gilbert Stuart, reproduced by courtesy

of Oscar J. Harvey 175

Red Jacket, from a portrait painted for Thomas Maxwell at the instance

of chief, reproduced for this book by courtesy of Hosnier H. Billings. . . 179

ILLUSTRATIONS ix

PAGE Map, showing Indian villages, camps and burial sites, sketched by Percy L.

Lang, copied for this book by Charles D. Park 197

Indian Pottery from M. P. Murray's garden, in Tioga Point Museum 199

Turtle shell rattles from Murray garden, reproduced by courtesy of JVyo-

ming Historical and Geological Society Facing 200

Bronze bracelet and bone comb from Murray garden, in Museum of Wyoming Historical and Geological Society, reproduced for this volume

by courtesy of Society 201

Open grave of Indian chief in Murrav garden, photographed by Mrs. Dana

J. MacAfee ' 203

Pottery from Queen Esther's Flats, found by Arthur Williams. Plate HI.. 205

Pottery from grounds of C. S. Maurice, Plate IV 205

Pottery from site of Museum-Library, Plate V 205

Pipes, tubes, totems and gorget in Tioga Point Museum Facing 206

Miscellaneous Indian implements in Tioga Point Museum 207

Map showing Connecticut Claim, reproduced by courtesy of Tioga County

Historical Society 222

Autographs of Trenton Commissioners, from original of secret letter, in

possession of Herrick heirs 228

Fac-simile of Half Share Certificate, from Tioga Point Museum 231

Patterson's location, made by first "zdiite settler in Athens Township 238

Portrait of Abraham Snell, the first zuhite child born in Athens To7cnship. . 240 Portrait of Matthias Hollenback, reproduced for this history from a Zi'oter

color sketch by Jacob Cist, courtesy of Andrezc H. McClintock 242

Portrait of John Shepard 245

Map of Athens Township, showing original subdivision of Pennsylvania warrants, drazvn by Zephon F. Walker to illustrate his manuscript

history 254

Fac-simile of Lockhart's warrant, reproduced for this history Facing 258

Fac-simile of first survey of Tioga Point, made for Lockhart by William Maclay. D. S., reproduced for this I'olume from original in the Land

OMce at Harrisburg 259

Letter and sketch map of Lockhart, from original in possession of z^'rifer. . . 262

Inscription on above 263

Col. John Franklin, from only known portrait 265

Autograph of Gen. Ethan Allen, from a paper of Samuel Bartlett's, presented

to Tioga Point Museum by Louis T. Hoyt 274

View on "Tioga Creek." corresponding with description in first Connecticut

survey 276

Portrait of Zephon Flower, earliest resident surveyor 27S

Map of Athens, according to first Connecticut survey by Col. Jenkins, first

published fac-simile copy, drazvn for this volume by N. F. Walker. .Facing 278 Historical Map of Athens Township, made by Z. F. Walker; carefully corrected and redrazi'n for this volume by N. F. Walker Facing 302

Autograph of John McKinstrv. one of the York Lessees under Connecticut

Claim ■ 303

Autographs of first permanent Connecticut settlers 306

Autograph of Betsy Matthewson 309

Portrait of Chester Stephens, by courtesy of Lodge No. 70 309

Portrait of Mrs. Elisha Satterlee. painted by Kittell, by courtesy of Mrs.

Helen Good 310

Portrait of Mrs. Elisha Matthewson, by courtesx of Mrs. Annie Washburn

X ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE

Portrait of Daniel McDuffee 314

Portrait of John Spalding, 2nd 320

Autograph of Ebenezer Backus 321

Fac-simile of pardon of Colonel Franklin 323

Portrait of Noah Murray, Sr., Justice of 1st District of Luzerne, 1789, cof^icd by his great great granddaughter, Jessie U'. Murray, from a

ivater color sketch by nnknozun artist 324

Autograph of David Alexander 329

David Paine, from an oil portrait in possession of family of Charles Paine. 332

Autograph of Clement Paine 332

Autograph of Ananias Conkling 339

Portrait of Julius Tozer, Sr 340

Silhouettes of David and Clement Paine 341

Paine homestead, erected 1797 342

Silhouette of Elizabeth, daughter of Noah Murray, Sr., by courtesy of Iter

grandson, George McConnel 345

Silk coat of Ferdinand McDuffee, in Tioga Point Museum ; viaterial spun

and ivoven by Daniel McDuffee, a noted weaver and pioneer settler. . . . 346 Ashbel Welles, from a portrait in possession of Jiis descendants, the Cook

family, of Clarksville, Tenn Facing 353

Autographs of George and Ashbel Welles 353

Richard Caton in youth 354

Richard Caton in old age, both reproduced for this history by the courtesy

of Mrs. Charles Carroll McTavisli, wife of a grandson of Caton 355

Charles Carroll of Carrollton. ^3' courtesy of Maryland Historical Society. 359

Autograph of James Irwin 359

Portrait of James Pumpelly, by courtesy of L. Jl'. Kingman 365

Portrait of Henry Welles, reproduced from a portrait by S. A. Mount, iS^O. 369

House built by George Welles in 1809 380

Autograph of Thomas Overton 384

The famous writ served on Mrs. Matthewson 390

Autograph of Job Irish, an early pettifogger 391

Autograph of Stephen Tuttle 398

Silhouettes of Mary Ann and Stephen Tuttle 398

Three grants of Ulster, from Col. Jenkins' map of the Seventeen Townships. 400

Upper Athens from Round Top, showing Satterlee's location 422

Isaac Morley, 3rd, by courtesy of Mrs. Celcstia Morley Ovenshire 425

House built by Abner Murray in 1807 426

The old sign of Murray's Inn 426

Certificate of Militia Company 438

Militia uniform of Colonel Welles 439

Portrait of Celestia Hopkins (Herrick), painted by her son Curran 445

Portrait of Charles Fisher Welles 447

Portrait of Constant Mathewson 460

The Old Stone House 462

"Map of the allotment of Tioga Point under the Susquehanna Company,"

drawn by Zephon Flower Facing 469

Portrait of Mrs. Sarah Spalding Welles 475

Silhouette of John Grififin, Sr 482

Silhouette of Elizabeth Matthewson (McKean) 483

ILLUSTRATIONS xi

PAGE

Portrait of Julia A. Shepard (Perkins) 485

Portrait of George A. Perkins 486

Portrait of Edward H. Perkins ' 487

The Exchange Hotel 488

Portrait of Lemuel S. Ellsworth 489

House built by L. S. Ellsworth 489

Portrait of Zephon Flower Walker 493

Portrait of General Horace Williston 495

Clover Croft, erected by Chauncey N. Shipman, 1841 497

Patrick's first brick block, erected in 1841 500

Hayden homestead, erected by Sidney Hayden. 1840 501

Portrait of Rebecca McDuffee ( McGeorge) 502

Portrait of Joshua R. Giddings 505

Portrait of Colonel Charles F. Welles 508

Main Street in 1845, east side, shozving Park's store, Toser's store, Patrick's frame block, Irn'in's tavern or Pike's hotel, and Mathezvson's Mansion

House 508

Davies' Cofifee House 509

Democratic banner, awarded to Athens in 1S44 511

Main Street in 1840, from a painting made for John E. Canticld. noti' /';; possession of Mrs. C. S. Maurice Facing 512

Residence erected by Col. Charles F. Welles. 1854 517

Fac-simile of letter from Guy Maxwell to Stephen Tuttle 522

Silhouette of William Parry 526

The old Susquehanna bridge, photographed by Miss E. Laing. 1898 527

Autograph of John Vangordon 529

Copies of old bridge and turnpike seals, found among the papers of Clement

Paine 529

A group of old pewter from Tioga Point Museum 537

Before the days of matches 538

Invitation to a dance 540

The first Athens fire company 543

The first fire engine 544

Handbill advertising Athens Academy in 1840 552

Athens Academ}-. second building, erected 1843 554

Spalding Museum Library, erected 1897 555

Soldiers' Monument, erected by Joseph and Charlotte Snell Stickler 555

Portrait of Rev. William Wisner 556

Portrait of Rev. Charles C. Corss 558

Portrait of Rev. Curtis Thurston 558

Portrait of Judge Herrick 563

Portrait of Judge Williston and homestead erected 1825 564

Portrait of Judge Wm. Elwell 565

Portrait of Henry C. Baird. copied from a group photograph in Tioga Point

Museum 066

Edward Herrick, Jr 566

The old doctor's saddle bags 567

Elm Cottage, erected by Dr. Amos Prentice, 1797 569

Dr. Huston's turnkeys 570

Portrait of Dr. William Kiflf 571

Log house built by Ludovick Greene, 1803 576

INTRODUCTORY

WHY AND WHENCE THIS HISTORY

The history of Tioga Point has long waited for consecutive and full narration. Although many memoranda and memories are irretrievably lost for want of a collector a century ago, a wealth of material, unsuspected by writers of the past, lay hidden and inaccessible until recent years. Many important documents supposed to have been destroyed at the time of the Wyoming Massacre, or by overzealous Connecticut and Pennsylvania pioneers, have come to light in Wilkes- Barre, Harrisburg. Philadelphia and Hartford.

From the very organization of the Tioga Point Historical Society in 1895, a growing desire was apparent for an exhaustive and accurate early history of this valley, and various appeals were made to us to undertake the task. The collections of the society soon revealed quantities of unused material, and from that time everything available has been carefully collected. At first it was disheartening to learn how much had perished from ill fortune or lack of care, that had been collected in the early days of the Bradford County Historical Society; and some of the most interesting early journals, etc., of this region were gathered up by the late Steuben Jenkins, whose collection is now lost to sight. Much valuable though desultory work was done thirty years ago by the late Edward Herrick, Jr., who contemplated writing a complete history of Tioga Point. Having abandoned the project, Mr. Edward Welles induced him to transfer most of his material to Rev. David Craft, who was urged to undertake this work. No definite work was done, although some notes and memoranda were added by Mr. Craft, who already had at hand a mass of data unused in his history of Bradford County. On the establishment of a fire-proof museum at Athens, Mr. Craft, at the suggestion of Mr. Welles, the Herrick family and others interested, presented these papers, with many of his own, to the Tioga Point Museum, where they are known as the "Craft Collection." Additional papers gathered by Mr. Herrick were also deposited in the museum by his son, or have come to hand from other

INTRODUCTORY xiii

sources. Quantities of letters and documents of great historical value have been loaned by the family of one of the most active pioneer settlers, Clement Paine. Were it not for these, and the work of Mr. Herrick and Mr. Craft, these annals would have been practically impossible. It has been entirely from these papers that isolated facts have been grasped, inciting to further research, which has always been rewarded ; therefore we have compiled more than we have composed. At a very late date access was obtained to the papers of the late Matthias Hollenback. an invaluable collection, with stores of interesting information. The manuscript prepared by the late Zephon F. Walker has also been placed at our disposal by his heirs. A lifelong surveyor himself, and possessing all the memoranda of his uncle Zephon Flower (who. was the first resident surveyor in this region), Mr. Walker's w^ork, as to maps, titles, etc., could have been accomplished by no other person. Unfortunately he has not noted his sources of information, thereby rendering much of his manuscript valueless for reference. His many excellent biographical sketches are too voluminous to use, for while, as has been well said, "Every person that has lived in this town has had more or less to do with the shaping of these events, yet it would take far too many pages to record each individual's share."

As the work has advanced we have often lost sight of the doer in recording the deeds done; therefore this book is in no sense biographical, although great pains has been taken to make family records accurate.

We have endeavored to avoid drawing upon our imagination for conclusions, and not to offer bias for facts, always giving our readers all the evidence at hand. It was enjoined upon us in beginning the work "not to make much use of conjecture, even when facts were scarce ;" though we agree with an ancestor, who observed in an old letter, "to be accurate is a great additional trouble."

The masses of material revealed to us, and the effort to corroborate statements, have prolonged the task far beyond expectation. The endeavor has been to make an exhaustive and unimpeachable history, valuable for reference, and yet sufficiently interesting to attract readers, young and old. We have borne in mind John Hay's remarks on historical writing :

"I don't try to remember anything. I have read reminiscences 'written from memory,' which crowd events occurring in different years into a single day. My experience is that you cannot zvritc ten lines of history without reference to memoranda or a reliable record."

We have aimed to take an impartial stand in the many vexed questions of early days, presenting both sides whenever possible, and leaving xiv INTRODUCTORY

the reader to judge for himself. This has been dififiicult, but "the true historian must try to suppress his individuaHty as far as he can, and must criticise the events of a remote period from the standpoint of that period, not from his own." Omissions and inaccuracies there will doubtless be, but we have searched diligently that we might avoid them. Beginning in 1895, at the suggestion of the late George T. Ercanbrack, our first enthusiastic supporter, we have traveled many miles in the last twelve years, notebook in hand. Then, ranging farther afield, we have visited the libraries of the most active historical societies, or corresponded with their most prominent officials. Considerable personal work has also been done in the various State departments at Harrisburg, and in the State Library. Almost invariably we have met with courtesy, prompt response and kindly encouragement, for which we here return sincere thanks. It has been purely a labor of love, the compiler of local history having no returns except the satisfaction of best endeavor. It has been far more difficult than others realize, for, as Ibsen says, "If one feels called to a great task, one must forget that one has friends." Yet it is the generosity of many interested friends that has rendered possible not only the publication of the book, but the numerous illustrations with which we have endeavored to make a complete picture of early times.

And now, voicing our sentiment in the beautiful words of Whittier,

"Lift we the twilight curtains of the Past,

And, turning from familiar sight and sound.

Sadly and full of reverence, let us cast

A glance upon Tradition's shadowy ground."

IN MEMORIAM

DAVID CRAFT.

October 3, 1S32 — September 17, 190S.

As we go to press, David Craft, instructor, pastor, chaplain, conscientious historian, faithful friend, has "crossed the bar." To-day it has been our sad privilege to witness the last civic and military honors paid to him. Let it be ours to add a tribute to the historian, from whom we have often imbibed wisdom. For what he had gleaned by painstaking research was given free-handed to the seeker after knowledge. Long years ago this history was his appointed task ; and, though laid aside in the press of greater duties, his garnered sheaves were preserved, and ready for our hand. Indeed, but for his work, ours would have been almost impossible ; for. when groping in the dark, a ray of light frequently came from his manuscript, memoranda, or many a turned-down page. He rejoiced in our efforts, and it was our privilege to read to him from advance sheets until he was weary of the task. Other hands may tell the story of his life and ancestry ; ours but to pay tribute to a friend.

September 23, 1908.

Part I History Of Tioga Point Before The Settlement By Whites

1614-1791

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Chapter I Tioga Point

'Geographical and Scenic Description — Athens Tozvnship and Borough Some Observations on the Physiography and Geology of the Valley Fossils of the Mammalian Bra Found Along the Tioga River

Midway between the Hudson and Lake Erie lie the beautiful valleys of the North Branch of the Susquehanna and of the Chemung Rivers, fertile and productive. The Susquehanna has its source in Otsego Lake, in central New York, whence it flows southerly, crossing the line dividing the 42nd and -iSrd degrees of latitude ; then west, northwest and west, making what is called the Great Bend ; it then turns again south. The Chemung, or old Tioga, rises in Tamarack Swamp, near Armenia, Bradford County, and describes a course somewhat resembling an elongated letter C, receiving the waters of the present Tioga and the Conhocton.

At the boundary line between New York and Pennsylvania, both these streams bend sharply to the south ; the Susquehanna at the 56th milestone, the Chemung at the 64th milestone ; and their waters meet live miles below, less than twenty miles from the source of the Chemung.

The chains of hills which have marked the river valleys here fall back a little, leaving a triangular plain, with nearly equal sides of eight miles each, the rivers forming two of these, and the north boundary being the low line of hills not far above the State line. This plain is 800 feet above tide water, and the encircling hills rise some 500 feet higher. The slopes and valleys are divided into farms, rich with grain fields, through which the rivers find their way in curves and links of silver, occasionally varied by wooded islands. Now the streams flow almost together, then suddenly spread out again, forming the peculiar peninsula just above their confluence, long ago called Tioga Point. The whole valley is one of unusual beauty — "no lovelier spot between the Atlantic and the Great Lakes," says one ; and, though smaller, it rivals the far-famed Wyoming Valley, of which, in early days, it was a part, in name at least. ^ The receding, yet encircling, hills, only their tops crowned with the forests which once clothed their sides, fade into soft shades in the distance, recalling the title of "the city of the violet crown" given by the ancients to Grecian Athens, and doubtless to the little hamlet of the long ago by a traveled pioneer. A recent traveler of old Athens stock, "the real Athens," as he is pleased to call it, thus writes from the Hellenic Athens :

"All my life I have wanted to come here, and after years of trying — at last here I am in Athens ! — There probably could not be two places on earth more

1 "In January, 1774, the General Assembly of Connecticut adopted measures to bring the Susquehanna settlement under her immediate jurisdiction. An act was passed erecting tne territory within her charter limits, from the Delaware to a line fifteen miles west of the Susquehanna, into a town, to be called Westmoreland, attaching it to Litchfield County, and from the Lehigh north to five miles above the confluence of the Susquehanna and Chemung Rivers." — Miner.

utterly different in their situations and surroundings than the two Athenses that I have known, and yet no man could justly say that one was distinctly more beautiful than the other. Statues and Parthenons and Theseions are here — but there are only firs and olives and cacti ; — the skies and seas are of a most wonderful sapphire — but there is no Round Top, no wooded hills and fertile plains and luxuriant gardens."

Another enthusiastic achnirer of our Athens says :

"Here the people of the valley will recall the noble inheritance of our classic title. These rushing streams will be the Ilissus and Cephesus of our modern Athens ; these shadowing trees will form our grove of Academus."

There are many points on the surrounding hills from which to view this charming valley. Those most frequented are Prospect, a hill overlooking the Point Farm (see frontispiece), the favorite picnic resort of the last generation ; Round Top, west of the town ( which was cleared by the late Charles F. Welles. Jr., that all might enjoy the view therefrom — Plate 3) ; and Spanish Hill, that ctirious freak of nature, standing alone in the plain, jestingly called the Parthenon.

What is there about this valley that has so endeared it to every one who has lived within its charmed circle? Who can forget the reverential air with which those oi the past two generations always spoke of "the Valley" F To visit it again was their greatest joy ; to live in it, aye to die or to be buried in it, the supreme desire of many who have long since quitted their beloved environment.

In this valley four contiguous villages, Athens, Sayre, South Waverly and Waverly, form one vast "City of the Plains," as it was long ago named by one who saw it only in prophetic vision ; the air castle of his dreams, through a long life begun, spent and ended here ; a life devoted as none other has been, solely to the interests and advancements of "the Valley." We often wonder, could he who loved it so return, would not his City of the Plains far exceed his hopes and dreams ? The prosperous towns, the many railroads, the busy shops, the connecting trolley lines, the electric lights, gas, water, all the modern conveniences, would surely astonish, if not our dreamer, the sturdy New Englanders who first peopled the Valley.

At hois Borough.

The curious peninsula first known as the Tcaoga of the Indians, has been in turn Westmoreland,^ the Indian Arrow, Lockhartzburg. Old Ulster, Athens, Tioga, New Tioga, Lower Tioga, Old Tiog Pint, Tioga Point. There have been various stories about the change of name. The truth is this : The Connecticut people took out the grant as Athens (1/86) ; the Pennsylvania settlers (1798) generally gave it the name of Tioga Point, corrupted from the Indian appellation. Letters were addressed for years to Athens, Ulster, Lockhartzburg and Tioga Point.

Prior to 1803, as there was another township named Tioga at the Iiead of the river of same name (Chemung), an application was made to the court to have the town established as Athens. It was not attended to at the time, if ever, and the settlement was still generally known as Tioga Point,' but finally incorporated as Athens in 1S31."