The land of the Nile; or, Egypt past and present

I

F Egypt presents no other attractions, the certainty, says Sir Gardner Wilkinson, that it is the oldest State of which we have any positive and tangible records, must awaken feelings of interest to which no contemplative mind can remain indifferent. The most remote point in its annals to hich its extant monuments refer us, opens with a aation possessing all the arts of civilized life already matured ; but though stretching so far back into the early history of the world, we still find the infancy of the Egyptian State is placed far beyond our reach. All we know is, that it was far advanced in all those arts and sciences which contribute so greatly to the comfort and adornment of social life — that it had a profound creed, a consummate polity, a fixed government, and immense material resources at an epoch when Jacob and his sons were pasturing their flocks in the land of Canaan.

But not only is the history of Egypt a theme of the highest interest in itself, and in its relations to the general history of the world, the remains which exist of vi

PRE FA CE.

its tombs, temples, palaces, and monuments are neither less valuable nor less important. The architectural memorials of Greece and Rome may exhibit a more aesthetic feeling, but they can never claim the consideration from the philosopher or the student which he will always pay to those of Ancient Egypt. Our knowledge of Greek and Roman life is chiefly obtained from other sources ; our knowledge of Egyptian life can be derived only from the Egyptian sculpture or painting on the walls of the tomb, palace, and temple. From this sculpture, from this painting it is that we learn how high a standard of civilization had been attained by at least one great nation in those ages of the world which seem to the ignorant to belong to its very infancy. And we know that to this strange and mysterious nation Greece owed much of her highest philosophy as well as of her scientific resources ; that Rome borrowed from Greece ; and that through both Rome and Greece the West has been permeated with the influence originally springing from the " Land of the Nile."

But besides her history and her antiquities, Egypt offers us for study her abundant animal life, her sad and solemn scenery. Above all, she offers to us whatever of romance, and mystery, and beauty — of grandeur and sublimity — is associated with the great river of the Old World, the ever-famous Xile.

It is not a matter of wonder, then, that Egypt has attracted the attention of so many travellers, or that so copious a literature has sprung up in reference to its history, religion, art, science, and industry. It is scarcely a matter of wonder, that, bewitched and beguiled by the

PRE FA CE.

vii romance of their subject, so many writers have wandered into a region of dreams and visions, and evolved out of their own consciousness an Ancient Egypt which never existed — a grand historical panorama based on no solid foundations. And it is not a matter of wonder that every year adds to the host of travellers, historians, and philosophical speculators, who concern themselves with a land which never wearies the fancy, and with antiquities which offer — now as always — an inexhaustible field for the most ingenious conjectures.

To the literature of which we speak the present volume, however, is a very modest contribution ; and whatever value it possesses, we cheerfully acknowledge, will be due to the works of our predecessors. It has not been our object to draw up a record of personal experiences — of books of this kind surely the world has had enough — but to bring together, within the compass of a moderate number of pages, the principal facts on which the great majority of critics seem to have agreed in connection with the history and monuments of Egypt. We have endeavoured to look coldly on the sanguine speculations of enthusiastic Egyptologists, and, so far as our design allowed, to keep within the most precise limits of actual and positive knowledge. How easy it is to err in dealing, however slightly, with Egyptian history, civilization, or religion, the critic will not fail to be aware ; and this circumstance will probably induce him to judge with some indulgence a manual which, in so small a compass, presumes to deal with such extended subjects. At all events, we have not made a single statement except on what has seemed to us good authoviii

PRE FA CE, rity; and we venture to believe that in no other volume of equally humble pretensions has there been brought together so much exact information on the past and present of the "Land of the Nile." So that the reader who has neither leisure nor inclination to consult the weighty volumes of English, French, and German Egyptologists, may be glad to turn for reference to the following pages ; while to the young student it is hoped they will be found useful, as an introduction to a wide, an important, and a specially interesting study.

It remains only to be added, that the Illustrations are from authentic sources, and, in the main, are executed, not only with fidelity, but with artistic feeling • that we have prefixed a copious list of authorities on Egyptian subjects i and that a brief account of the Suez Canal is furnished in an Appendix.

" Go, little booke ; God send thee good passage, And specially let this be thy prayere, Unto them all that thee will read or heare, When thou art wrong, after their help to call, Thee to correct in any part, or all."

[To enumerate all the works — history, travel, antiquarian research — which have been devoted to Egypt and her glorious river, Fiuvius fluvionim, would occupy a far larger space than the present writer has at his disposal. In the subjoined list, therefore, he professes only to enumerate those which have been mainly consulted in the preparation of the following pages, and he is fully aware that many of conspicuous merit are omitted from it. But the young student, 01 general reader, who may wish to carry his Egyptian studies beyond the outlines sketched in our little volume, cannot neglect the authorities here subjoined without gteat disadvantage.]

Adams, A. L. — The Naturalist in the Nile Valley (Longmans,

Baker, Sir Sajntiel — The Albert X ; yanza, Great Lakes, and Sources of the Nile (London, 1866). Compare Edinburgh Review, and Quarterly Review, both for July 1866.

Bartlett, IV. H.— The Nile Boat, illustrated (London, 1S50).

Bdzoni, G. B. — Narrative of the Operations and Recent Discoveries within the Pyramids, &c. , &c, in Egypt and Nubia (London, 1821).

Birch, Dr. — Introduction to the Study of Hieroglyphics, prefixed to Sir J. G. Wilkinson's " Egyptians in the Time of the Pharaohs" (London, 1857).

Bunsen, Baron — Aegyptens-Stelle (Hamburg andGotha, 1845-57). Translated by C. J. Cotterell, M.A., under the title of " Egypt's

X

A UTHORITIES.

Place in the World's History." See also " Life and Letters of Bunsen," for incidental allusions and observations.

Burckhardt, y. L. — Travels in Nubia (1819) ; Manners and Customs of the Modern Egyptians (London, 1830).

CaUliaud, M. — Voyage au Meroe, Fleuve Blanc, &c. (Paris, 1826, 1827).

Denon, Baron — Voyage dans la Basse et la Haute Egypte (Paris, 1802).

Hamilton, Sir W. — Aegyptiaca (London, 1810). Heeren — Historical Researches into the Politics, Intercourse, and Trade of the Carthaginians, Ethiopians, and Egyptians (Oxford,

Hopley, Howard- — Under Egyptian Palms.

Hoskins, G. A. — Travels in Ethiopia above the Second Cataract of the Nile, &c. ; with Ninety Illustrations (London, 1835).

Kinglake, A. W. — Eothen ; or, Footprints of Eastern Travel (London, 1844).

Lane, E. — Modern Egyptians (London, 1842).

Lindsay, Lord — Letters on Egypt, Edom, and the Holy Land (London, 1834).

Martineau, Harriet — Eastern Life, Past and Present (London, 1848).

Melly. G. — Khartoum, and the two Niles (London, 1851).

Richardson, Dr. — Travels along the Mediterranean and Adjacent Parts, during the years 181 6 to 1 818 (London, 1822).

Romer, Mrs. — Temples and Tombs of Egypt and Nubia.

Mariette, M. — Serapeum de Memphis, (quarto, Paris, 1856).

Russell, Dr. (Bishop of Glasgow) — History of Ancient and Modern Egypt (Edin. Cab. Lib., Edinburgh, 1852) ; and Nubia and Abyssinia (in the same collection, 1840).

Russell, Dr. W. H. — The Prince and Princess of Wales's Visit to Egypt, and up the Nile.

Sharpe, Samuel — History of Egypt (London, 1846).

Sherer, Captain — Scenes and Impressions in Egypt and Italy (London, 1854).

A UTHORITIES.

xi

Smith, Rev. A. C. — The Nile and its Banks (Longmans).

Trevor, Canon — Ancient Egypt (Religious Tract Society),

IVarburton, Eliot — The Crescent and the Cross (1856).

Wilkinson, Sir J. G. — Topography of Thebes and General View of Egypt (London, 1835) ; Manners and Customs of the Ancient Egyptians (in two series, London, 1837 and [841) ; Modern Egypt and Thebes (1843) ; Popular Account of the Ancient Egyptians

[Reference should also be made to the works of Brugsch, Champollion-Figeac, Poole, and others.]

CSf oniutts.

CHAPTER I. Antiquity of Egypt, and Early Development of its Civilization, . . 14

Physical Features of the Country remain Unchanged, .. .. 15

Gradual Introduction of Western Civilization, .. .. .. 15

Boundaries and Dimensions of Egypt, .. .. .. .. 16

Boundaries and Dimensions of the Nile Valley, .. .. .. 16

Ancient Division of Egypt into Nomes, or Districts, . . . . 19

Some Remarks on the Ancient Worship of Animals, . . . . 22

Extreme Sacredness of the Bull, or Apis .. .. .. 23

Annual Feast in Honour of it, . . . . . . . , 24

Roman Divisions of Egypt, . . . c . . . . . . 25

General Aspect of the Country — Lower and Middle Egypt, . . 25

Upper Egypt, and its Pleasant Landscapes, . . . . . . 26

The Trees of Egypt, . . . . . . . . . . . , 27

The Birds of Egypt : their Number and Variety, . . . . 29

Characteristics of the Egyptian Climate, . . . . . . 32

Present Population of the Kingdom of Egypt, and Statistics, . . 34

CHAPTER II. Want of Authorities for the Early History of Egypt, .. .. 35

The Pharaonic, and its Thirty Dynasties, . . . . . . 36

Menes, or Men, the Founder of the Monarchy, . ; .. ,. 37

Note on Egyptian Animal Worship, .. .. .. .. 37

The Kings of the Pyramids, . . . . . . . . . . 40

The Founder of Heliopolis, .. .. .. .. 41

The Labyrinth of Amenemha III. , .. .. .. ,. 42

Description of the Labyrinth, .. .. .. .. 43

Contents

CHAPTER II.— Continued.

The Shepherd Kings, and their Expulsion, .. .. 44

The " Edward the First" of Egypt, .. . . .. 44

Chapter III

The Contest between the Nile and the Desert, . . . . . . 77

The Nile regarded as the Good, and the Desert as the Evil Principle, 78

Mystery surrounding its Sources, . . . . . . . . 78

Researches of Speke and Sir S. Baker, . . . . . . . . 79

Course of the Nile to Khartum, . . . . . . . . 80

The Blue Nile, or Bahr-el-Azrek, .. .. .. .. 83

The Valley of the Nile Described, .. .. .. .. 84

The Cataracts, or Rapids, . . . . . . . . . . 84

Influence of the Nile on Egyptian Agriculture, .. .. .. 85

To what the Rise of the Nile is due, .. : .. 86

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER III.— Continued.

An Inundated Country, . . . . . . . . . . 86

Divinity of the River, . . . . . . . . . . . . 87

Remarkable Statue of the Nile, . . . . . . . . 88

Pageants on the Nile, . . . . . . . . . . . . 89

Influence of the Nile on the Character and Genius of Egyptian Art, 90

Vitality of Egyptian Imagery, . . . . . . . . . . 91

Chapter I

Alexandria : Its Ancient Prosperity, . . . . . . . . 92

Its Public Buildings and Worthies, .. .. .. 93

Modern Alexandria, .. .. .. .. .. 94

An Oriental Spectacle, . . . . . . . . . . . . 97

The Railway Station at Alexandria, . . . . . . . . 99

Description of the Ancient City, .. .. .. .. 100

Scene of the Contests between Arians and Athanasians, . . . . 101

Conflict between the Roman Empire and the Christian Church, . . 102

Interesting Associations, . . . . . . . . . . 103

Decay and Revival of Alexandria, . . . . . . . . 104

The so-called Pompey's Pillar, . . . . , . . . . . 105

The Temple of Caesar, .. .. ,. .. .. 107

The Obelisks known as " Cleopatra's Needles," .. .. .. 108

CHAPTER II. Railway Journey to Cairo, .. .. .. .. .. no

View of the City Described, .. .. .. .. .. in

Its Oriental Character, .. .. .. .. . .. 112

Historical Summary, .. .. .. .. .. 113

Its Citadel, and Prospect from the Ramparts, . . .. . . 113

The Mosques of Cairo, .. .. .. .. .. .. 118

Described by Lady Duff Gordon, .. .. .. 118

In the Streets of Cairo, .. .. .. .. 118

The Dancing Dervishes, .. .. .. .. .. 120

The Donkeys and Donkey-drivers of Cairo, .. .. .. 123

An Expedition to the Pyramids, .. .. .. .. 127

Their Impressive Associations, .. .. ., .. .. 127

Who Built them, and for what Purpose ?. . .. .. .. 129

They are probably Sepulchral Monuments of the Kings, . . . . 129

Egyptian Life a constant Preparation for Death, .. .. .. 130

Erection of a Pyramid, .. .. .. .. .. .. 131

The Great Pyramid (of " Cheops," or Shufu), . . . . . . 132

Exploration of its Interior, .. .. .. .. .. 133

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER U.— Continued.

The King's Chamber, .. .. .. ,, I34

The Pyramid of Chephren, or Sha-fre, .. .. .. .. I3 -

Belzoni's Exploration of it Described, .. .. .. .. I3 6

Discoveries which he made there, .. .. .. ,. x^g

The Third Pyramid, . . . . . . . . . . . . X ^ Q

Minor Pyramids, . . . . . . . . . . . ,

Legends of the Pyramids, .. .. .. .. .. 14I

Their Mechanical Excellence, .. .. .. - .. .. 142

Described by Kinglake, the Author of " Eothen," .. .. 144

Its Dimensions and Antiquity, .. .. .. .. .. 146

M. Marietta's Researches, and their Results, .. .. .. 147

A Visit to Memphis, .. .. .. .. .. .. I4 8

Its Ancient History, .. .. .. .. . . ^8

Its scanty Remains, .. .. ..

The Apeum, or Sanctuary, .. .. .. .. .. I5Q

The Serapeion, or Temple of Osiris-Apis, .. .. .. 153

Apis Worshipped as a Symbol of Osiris, .. .. .. .. 154

Other Memorials of Ancient Memphis, .. .. .. .. 155

Excursion to Heliopolis, .. .. .. .. .. 156

Remarkable Associations of the City, .. .. .. .. 157

Pyramids and Obelisks, .. .. .. .. .. 159

CHAPTER III. A Voyage up the Nile, .. .. .. .. .. .. 163

Sights and Sounds on either Bank, .. .. .. .. 164

" The Mountain of the Birds," .. .. .. .. .. 167

Beni-hassan and its Tombs, . . . . . . . . . . 167

A Tomb of special Interest, . . . . . . . . . . 168

Its Sculptures, and their Meaning, .. .. .. .. jyi

Other Tombs and other Sculptures, .. ,. .. .. 172

Life in Old Egypt Depicted, .. .. .. .. .. 174

From Girgeh to Keneh. . . . « . . . . . . 176

The Temple at Dendera, .. .. .. .. .. iyg

The Sanctuary of Athor, .. .. .. .. .. 183

CHAPTER IV. The Ancient City of Thebes, .. .. .. .. .. 185

Reflections suggested by its R uins, .. .. .. .. 186

Its Admirable Commercial Situation, .. .. .. .. 187

The Theban Kings, .. .. .. .. .. 189

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER IV.— Continued.

Rameses III., and his Conquests, .. .. ., .. 190

Invasion of Cambyses, .. .. .. .. .. .. 191

Reign of the Ptolemys, . . . . . . . . . . . . 192

The Villages which mark the Site of Ancient Thebes . . . . 193

The Statue of Rameses III., .. .. .. .. .. 194

The Splendours of the Great Hall, . . . . ... . . 197

Sculptures in Honour of Rameses, . . . . . . . . 198

Pictures of Strife and Battle, . . . . . . . . . . 199

The Two Colossi : Tama and Chama, . . . . . . . . 200

The Palace-Temple of Rameses, or Southern Rameseion, . . . . 205

The Thothmeseion at Medinet-Aboo, . . . . . . . . 206

An Immense Necropolis, . . . . . . . . . . 209

Remarks on the Egyptian Ideas of Death, .. .. .. 210

The Tombs and their Sculptures, .. .. .. .. 211

The Hall of Beauty, .. .. .. .. .. 212

The Sarcophagus of Osirei, .. .. .. 213

Tombs of two Pharaohs, .. .. .. .. .. 215

The French Army at Karnak, .. .. .. .. .. 216

The Palace of the Kings, .. .. „ .. .. 218

The Hall of Columns, .. .. .. .. .. 219

A Biblical Illustration, .. .. .. .. .. .. 221

An Animated Sculpture, . . . . . . . . . . 226

The Thebaid as it was, and as it is, . . . . . . . . 229

CHAPTER I. Erment, the Hermonthis of the Greeks, .. .. . . .. 231

The Ancient Crocodilopolis, . . . . . . . . . . 232

The Spur-winged Plover, . . . . . . . . . . 232

Temple of Kneph at Esneh, .. .. .. .. .. 233

The Ancient Latopolis, . . . . . . . . . . . . 234

Performances of the Almehs, or Dancing-Girls, . . . . . . 235

An Egyptian Marriage Ceremony, . . . . . . . . 236

The Rock-Tombs at 'Eilythia, . . . . . . . . . . 238

Pictures of the Ancient Life, . . . . . . . . . . 239

The Judgment of Osiris, . . . . . . . . . . 240

Edfoo, or Apollinopolis Magna , . . .. .. .. 240

(295; 2

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.— Continued.

Interior of the Larger Temple, .. .. .. ,, .. 242

The Pass of Hadjur Silsileh, .. .. .. .. 243

History in Stone : the Sculptured Rocks, .. .. .. 244

The Village of Koum Ombos, .. .. .. .. 246

The Temple of Arveris, . . . . . . . , . . 246

CHAPTER II. Approach to Assouan ;Syene., .. .. .. .. .. 249

The Gate at the Frontier, . . 4 . . . . . . . 250

The Quarries of Syene, .. .. .. .. .. 251

The Obelisk and the Columns, .. .. .. .. 252

Visit to the Island of Elephantine, .. .. .. .. 253

Its Memorials of Interest, .. .. .. .. .. 254

The Holy Island of Philae, . . . . . . . . . . 254

Opinions of Travellers on the Scenery of Philae, .. .. .. 256

Sacredness of the Island, .. .. .. .. 257

Its Numerous Ruins, . . . . . . . . . . . . 258

Its Temple of Osiris. .. .. .. .. .. 259

The so-called Resurrection Chamber, . . . . . . . . 263

The small Temple of " Pharaoh's Bed," .. .. .. 265

Remarks on the Sacred Character and Attributes of Osiris. . . 265

As the Supreme Judge, . . . . . . . . . . 2-66

As the Centre of Life, .. .. .. .. .. .. 267

Typhon, the Rival God, . . . . . . . . . . 268

Isis, the Wife of Osiris, . . . . . . . . . . 268

Interest which Philae necessarily possesses for Modern Students. . . 269

Chapter III

Birbe, a small River-port, . . . . . . . . . . 270

Ascent of the First Cataract. .. .. .. .. .. 271

Its Picturesque Incidents, .. .. .. .. .. 272

Crossing the Egyptian Frontier-line, .. .. .. .. 274

CHAPTER I. Ancient Name of Nubia, .. .. .. 275

Historical Sketch of Nubia. . . . . . . . . . . 276

Costume of the Nubians, .. .. .. .. 277

Their Character, Manners and Customs, and Products, . . . . 278

Principal Towns and Rivers, .. .. .. .. 278

Conquest of Nubia by Ismael Pasha. .. .. .. .. 279

CONTENTS, 9

CHAPTER II. Kalabsche 'the ancient Talmis', .. .. .. .. 2S1

Its Temple to Mandulis, .. ,. .. .. .. 281

The Rock-Temple at Beyt-el-Wellee, . . . . . . . . 282

Ruins at Ghirsche Housseyn, .. .. .. .. .. 283

Great Temple in honour of Ptah, . . . . . . . . 285

Temple built by Eugamenes at Dakkeh, . . . . . . 287

What were the Propyla ? . . . . . . . . 288

Probably used both as "Watch-Towers and Observatories, . . . . 289

The " Valley of the Lions," .. .. .. .. .. 290

Derr, the Nubian Capital, .. .. .. .. .. 291

The Castle of Ibreem, . . . . . . . . . . . . 292

The Wonder of the Nile Valley, . . . . . . . . 293

Abou-Simbel, or Ipsambul, .. .. .. .. .. 293

The Temple of Osiris, . . . . . . . , . . . . 294

A Colossal Doorway, . . . . . . . . . . . . 295

The Gigantic Ramessid Figures, .. .. ., 295

The Great Hall, and minor Chambers, .. .. .. .. 297

Description of the Sculptured Walls, . . . . . . . . 299

Boundary of Roman Conquest, . . . . . . . . . . 300

Chapter III

Rock-Temple at Gebel-Adha, . . . . . . . . . . 301

Above the Second Cataract, .. .. .. .. .. 302

Abousir, or Abooseer, .. .. .. .. .. 302

Ancient Kingdom of Meroe, .. .. .. .. .. 304

Groups of Pyramids, . . . . . . . . . . . . 305

Antiquities at El-Mesaourat, .. .. .. .. .. 308

An Asylum for the " Sacred Ship," .. .. .. ., 309

Homer's Allusion to the Ethiopians, .. .. .. .. 311

CHAPTER IV. Ancient Authorities, .. .. .. .. .. .. 313

The Northern Oasis, .. .. .. .. ,. .. 317

The " Oracle of Ammon," .. .. .. .. 318

CONTENTS.

APPENDIX,

The Suez Canal.

Its Construction.

Statistics,

Its Dimensions,

Along the Canal, On the Egyptian Hieroglyphics, The Ramessids, Index,

List of Illustrations,

MAP OF THE NILE VALLEY.

EGYPT PAST AND PRESENT.

Book ^BvitBi