Introduction
This little volume is only to relate wliat travelers will be apt to enjoy most, the folklore and a pleasant trip — a sort of help to those seeking information for which they might blunder around, and waste time, in not knowing what was worth while.
Guide-books are plentiful, and useful, but it is a fine idea to have a general knowledge beforehand; for one is often too tired, when traveling, too excited or impatient to dive down into the intricacies of such books more than superficially at the right time, and does not care to be burdened with more than what one can just get along with.
Thinking of this, I wondered if tourists did not want a light book they could read at leisure before starting and gather some idea as to what they wanted most to see ; or if those who never intended going, from fear of the ocean or lack of means, did not wish a something which could keep them in touch with the outside world.
Yet it is not intended for a guide-book — only a forerunner. Guide-books can be purchased along the way and referred to, but are read to better advantage later in quiet and leisure,
8 Introduction
wlnich is almost equal to taking a second trip in tlie pleasure the revival imparts.
It might be well for the youth of our schools to use or read this book along with their studies. It would familiarize them with the main parts of the Old World and bear rich fruit later in life if such a trip be taken.
My best apology for it is the kindness with which my neighbors listened to my tale of wonders ; they being more than usually enlightened ; always struggling to know the latest and best, which means progress. I felt as if it might please others, especially those who remain at home, and help those who know not the ropes when setting out, having to pick and choose the best — ^in the haste of sightseeing — from the sumptuous dish set before them.
The Authoe.
WHAT MAEJOEIE SAW ABROAD
Chapter I
''It is utterly impossible!" shouted Ms Majesty. ^ ^ It can 't be done ! ' '
''Why can't it?" inquired the Countess, mildly.
** Because my business will suffer, and I have not the money!" said he, crossly.
'^Make up your mind and the money will come," persisted she.
No answer but a grunt.
** Your health will suffer and injure your business, ' ' pleaded she.
**My health is not so bad," he growled.
''You have been ill at times for six months, and each time you have had a harder spell," said she.
"I'll have to borrow the money," said he, ' ' and it will take four or five years to pay it back."
The Countess smiled to herself. She knew he had plenty of property. She knew no good business man ever kept a lot of cash lying around idle, and what if he did borrow? She also knew he made enough every year to go for the whole summer if he would quit speculating. He took a hand in every enterprise which came along,
12 What Marjorie Saw ^hroad
just for tHe excitement of it, sHe sometimes thonght. Hoping to Mt a Hundred thousand — lie thought — or something which might lead up to it.
Her efforts to get him off seeming futile, as soon as he got out of the way she sat down and wrote to the Princess and suggested a visitsuggested numerous ways, Delilah-like, though in a better cause, by which she and the Princess could prevail upon him to take the step — ^to go abroad. !^ ; '
The Princess had been abroad, in fact, had lived in the charming atmosphere of Italy and other foreign countries for many months, and was fully capable of assisting the Countess in depicting all the beauties and advantages of such a trip, besides the benefit of rest on the ship and the complete change.
The Countess, on the other hand, had never been abroad, but had read enough to converse astonishingly on the subject; and, knowing his Majesty had great love for the beautiful and a high appreciation of the excellencies of life, she took heart and hoped to arrange matters to suit herself.
So the Princess came. With her blandishments, abetted by the Countess, she had the dear man actually consenting to leave his business for four months to take a pleasure trip. Ah ! that was success on Her part and that of the Countess.
When Marjorie, their only child, returned from school for vacation, she was told to help the household get ready for the trip.
Meantime, the Princess had gone home to inform her family of the determination, and while they are packing their trmiks and filling the valises and hand-bags with every conceivable article for their comfort, we have a chance to learn something about this quartette just about to visit the Old World.
His Majesty is by no means a king, as his title implies. He is a plain American citizen, with a long tail of worthy ancestors, however, of whom he knew, but — unlike many — of whom he never boasted. Still, he had the manner of a lord and the presence of a somebody, always taking the lead in conversation and otherwise, and does not exactly know how it came about, but he was called his Majesty by the family; not in ridicule, nor in sarcasm, but the term seemed to fit, and, as I do not wish to give his real name, I shall call him this throughout the book.
Strange to say, the Countess was his Majesty's wife, and yet retained her title. It was in this way: She always had many pretensions to beauty, and she had dreams for the future when young; for her head was held high, though her heart was good; her bearing, though natural, showed pride ; and her clothes fitted her well, she wearing the finest at all times which could be bought, if it did not exceed the limit of her purse. She was honest. And in her family some member remarked that she ought to be * ^ a countess''; she held herself so. From that day to this the Countess she was.
When she met his Majesty her world said, ^* Here's a mate for the Countess"; and so it turned out, and they seemed happy forever after, as the folks in the fairy tale.
Now, the Princess was a dear friend of the Countess ; in fact, they were once schoolmates — and every one knows what that means. It was no more than natural that she should help her friend out.
The Princess was a Northern woman, but few would suspect it. Her father and many of her relations had known the Countess 's father, who lived in the extreme South of the United States. Constant intercourse had rubbed off all the distinction of Northern and Southern, and they seemed like one family, so united were they. The Princess was some years younger than the Countess, but any girl who lays claim to any attractions at all will understand how at boarding-school a younger girl admires an older, making the latter an idol to follow and worship; thus it was with the Princess. And the Countess returned the aif ection warmly, but not until she was fully developed did the Countess begin to call her ^* Princess." The name was given her by another friend as well as the Countess — neither knowing the other had done so. And she had the manner and tastes of a Princess. A handsome lass, the Princess, with wonderful sweetness and magnetism, a gay manner and a brave heart. She also loved the beautiful, and her gowns were a pleasure to see.
Now Marjorie said, for the sake of keeping up the delusion, they ought to give her a title, or strangers might imagine she was the maid. The Countess chuckled, for with all her elegance she had a merry temper. The beautiful, winsome, arrogant Marjorie taken for a maid! She was more like a ripe, rosy, luscious peach of the purest quality than anything she could think of at that time. But Marjorie was her daughter — hers and his Majesty's — and mothers are partial, of course.
Marjorie was not altogether enthused at going abroad. She thought she ought to wait till she was out of school, but made no demur, as she was afraid it might be her only chance ; so she went to work with a will. She had a trunk ; the Countess and his Majesty had one together; then there were two steamer trunks — one his Majesty and the Countess shared together, and one for Marjorie. The Countess had been gradually getting ready for several months, hoping the tide would turn her way, and if it did not, she could use all she had acquired at home, she argued with herself, putting off the ship outfit till the taking of the trip was settled. Each had a valise and a hand-bag of good, stout leather. Shawls, heavy clothes (for the northern route is cold) , light rubbers, second-best suits, pillows and such articles were put in the steamer trunks, getting the last in New York, where they were for several days before leaving. In the valises the ladies had any number of shirtwaists of all thicknesses ; a nice traveling heavy suit ; a nice traveling black silk suit with low waist and overskirt to match, and other embellishments for evening; a handsome afternoon waist to wear with the black silk skirt, and all the little additions, particularly neck ribbons and ties, which make ladies so attractive, as well as the other necessary clothes. Perhaps you will say, *^0h, my, what a lot to put in one valise ! ' ' But try it. It gives one a great deal of comfort, going from place to place, and the trunks need not be carried to every point.
The Countess thought it would be a good idea to put in one hand-bag all the medicines and whisky (needed in traveling), with the drinkingcup and other articles it would not hurt to get wet should the contents spill out.
Marjorie dressed the camphor, the peppermint, the antiseptic — she had heard there were fleas and tarantulas in Italy, but did not see one — and other bottles in gingham to keep them from cracking if they happened to get all in a bunch in the bag, putting them as erect as possible, steadying them with washrags (so needful), after writing in ink the name of each on the outside and seeing that good stoppers with handles had been put in. It is worth while saying that this bag was quite useful all along.
She had embroidered her father's crest in gold in a large design upon his black satin ship pillow, and her mother's in appropriate colors on her satin pillow, when his Majesty came along and said he had no idea of making any such display — he was going as an American citizen. So Marjorie had to buy more black satin, making a cushion of the crested pieces and leaving it at home, where her father said was the proper place for it. On the new pieces she worked the monogram of each, and the pillows looked very nice. She had never liked to lounge much, and had made none for herself, of which she was very glad, as her father seemed comfortable without any, and she used his, which rested the hollow of her back when reading in the stiff deck chairs, and there were only two to look after.
A hat she fortunately brought with her, turned up behind, she found most comfortable in the reclining position. Marjorie had been carefully bred, but she was not straight-laced. She did not consult, but she consulted with her parents. She had a will and opinions of her own, and had never been ^^sat down on," as the saying is, his Majesty and the Countess meeting her youthful and inexperienced suggestions as though they were worthy of consideration, drawing her out and leading her on, never ridiculing or looking shocked, though he was pretty decided in his ideas of right and wrong, and she — ^no power on earth could get her to be untrue. All were of the English Church, as their forefathers had been, and had the faith well grounded in.
At the age of eleven Marjorie once had the rashness to say in her parents^ presence that there were so many different kinds of religions, and so few seemed to carry out any of them, that one hardly knew what to believe, and that she would study out the Christ and try to be led by Him whom every one could but admit had followed out His own fine line of conduct. This resolve, this awakening to the ways of the world, astonished her parents. Marjorie was so merry all the time that no one imagined such germs were working in her brain. She was so ambitious, too, and inherited to a great extent her mother's taste in dress. After she once got her clothes on she never thought of them. They fell naturally and gracefully around her, giving her a chic look which pleased every one; but if she found a beggar entertaining she would not mind his clothes.
She laid great stress on the heart and intellect, which are good to have sometimes in abundance, but which do not often run together in one body, or always bring happiness to the individuals possessing them. This superiority over others increases the obligations to those less gifted.
However, we like some for their mental capacity, and others for their amiable qualities — thus runs the world away — ^until we find some with both attributes well blended. Presto ! the world looks brighter while they are with us, life is worth living ; we awake early in the morning and follow our daily vocations with cheerfulness ; we have an object in life, a mutual interest, and it seems so necessary to put sensible boys and girls where they can find many companions and single out congenial ones for their intimates — it develops, it broadens, it strengthens, it cheers.
Marjorie had lived in the suburbs of a large Southern city, but she was not confined to this. Since her early childhood she had gone all over the United States with her parents on their summer trips — even to Mexico and Canada in her later years — and altogether was very well informed and a very nice child. She was sixteen, but did not wear her hair in a plait down her back ; she wore it pompadour, with a curly mist on her brow, and twisted in a chatelaine behind. Southern girls mature early, and she was too tall for the plait coiffure.
The Princess knew the Italian language very well; the Countess, French; Marjorie had paid considerable attention to German in her young life, and his Majesty said he could *^talk American''; so they considered themselves well enough equipped on that score. If one does not have the command of languages, a little knowledge of this sort assists in one's escaping being cheated unmercifully at shops, led astray on trains and tramways or railroad cars, and enables one to have a correct understanding of what one sees on the way.
His Majesty said, after he had sampled them, that England English was almost as hard to understand as the other languages he came in contact with.
CHAPTEE II
On reaching New York, from which place they were to take the ship, the Princess met them. His Majesty was not at all well at this time, and doubted the propriety of going, but braced himself up for it with a will, knowing the sea, which he loved, was good medicine.
Aftar purchasing the necessary ship outfit — the passage having been secured six weeks before — and having the tags *^ Wanted" tied on their stateroom baggage, they went to the ship, where ^^Not wanted,'' on a slip of paper, was pasted on the trunks for the hold. All their baggage had the owner 's nanje on the outside.
Details are tedious, and one day on board will suffice, with other incidents, as the days are very much alike. Having reached the ship at Hoboken piers an hour before it started, and gotten out their rugs, wraps, and all needful to make them comfortable, they were well settled in their chairs, which were insured to them for a dollar apiece, as well as their location, to the end of the trip, before starting.
Their early arrival also gave them an opportunity to watch the bustle of getting ready ; the departure; the receding houses; the little skiff in wliicli the man came to give and take any mail; to feel to the fullest the novelty, the tremor of uncertainty, as one notices the ocean swell and views nothing but the vast expanse of water ahead. One feels safe, however, on perceiving the almost military rule of the officials.
A man sits away up in a box on a stout pole, watching. Every hour he is relieved by another as the bell taps. It is fun to see one man run up one tall ladder to take the place of the man already there, and who as quickly skips down a second. On the upper deck the captain and somo trusty officers with the proper instruments are ever watching. No one allowed here— but by invitation — to disturb the tenor of their thoughts. Marjorie and her party were invited up for half an hour. Far down on the lower deck the steerage passengers aired themselves, looking cheerful enough, especially the children when deck passengers threw candy down for them to scramble for and make merry over.
The staterooms were comfortable, though they thought the narrow beds hard. The sea air made them sleep well, spite of their hardness. Attached to each bunk was a railing a foot high, for rough weather. The top sheet was sewed up like a bag and a blanket tied down in it. The washstands shut up like a writing-desk, and were very convenient. In discussing the merits or demerits of the rooms, the Princess said the Countess 's room was so large, compared to hers and others, she thought they might have a party in it. The Princess liked a little party, and gave one later in an open place on the ship, having tea and cake at five o'clock.
They were on board nearly ten days, but the sea was not rough much at any time, which Marjorie pretended was due to her birthday ring, a simple gold band with an amethyst set flat in. Her birthday was the 14th of February, and the stone was the appropriate one for that month. She laughingly said it had already shown its true worth as a talisman, she having gone in bathing once at Old Point Comfort, Virginia, and lost it in the water. Her father said he would look for it while she went to dress for lunch. At his feet a wave rolled — he had seen her bathing and knew where to go — and as he looked into the sand, when the wave receded it left a new set of false teeth, which he stooped and picked up, and was just about to turn and go to the office with the teeth, where he thought they might be claimed by the owner, when he observed another wave coming, and he thought he would wait for one more wave. And, lo! there was Marjorie 's ring. Imagine her delight with its additional value.
It was ten A.M. when they started for the Old World on the ship. At eleven, still sitting on deck, they were served, from little cups, a consomme by the deck steward, his assistant following with sliced cured tongue and beef sandwiches. About this time the band struck up on deck. At one P.M. the bugle blew for lunch.
24 What Marjorie Saw "jihroad
This was served downstairs in the dining-room, in the front of the ship, and was more elaborate than any e very-day land dinner.
At four P.M. lemonade and cake were handed on deck by the same waiters who served the eleven o'clock meal. At six-thirty the bugle blew, and all who desired retired to make ready for dinner at seven, when the bugle blew again, and the band played somewhere near the dining-room.
The dinner was conducted in style. About twenty-four persons sat at the longest tables, which were three in a row, in the central part of the saloon. Each of these tables had four waiters, and the party sat at one of them. The waiters were gloved, and did their part admirably. The dining-room steward stood near the door, inside, and superintended affairs. If one wished, meals were sent to the room at the touch of an electric bell.
The ices at dinner were usually very tasteful ; all from New York, enough to go and return with. One evening there was a pink dove on a green plot ; another time, two sleighs — ^made of cake — holding blocks of cream; and the last night each person had a German flag stuck on a pin in the cream as a souvenir, for the ship belonged to the Norddeutscher Lloyd. Dinner always lasted an hour and a half. At seventhirty A.M. again the bugle sounded to awaken those who wanted to rise for an eight o'clock breakfast. Not many attended. The passengers, the ladies especially, preferred to rise at their pleasure.
There were salt baths, hot or cold ; the stewardess came and went to make ready at the touch of a bell. Also fresh- water baths for those who liked them. The stewardess was very useful, helping the ladies dress, or combing their hair, and, as already mentioned, fixing the bath. There were several of them. One gives the one waiting on her two and a half dollars at the beginning of the trip, and as much again before getting off. This answers for the first deck steward, too; the second deck steward gets about a dollar, also the two waiters on one's side of the table. The dining-room steward gets about two and a half dollars — at least, passengers usually give these amounts to insure comfort and to be free of annoyance.
They met other vessels, which kept them in touch with the world, and the sight of a vessel was a joyful event. The whole ship halloed, and those who had them leveled their binoculars to draw it as near as possible. There were all sorts of surmises as to why their ship went so slowly; but well it was for the passengers, for only one became sick. Some said the captain had orders to go slowly because there was a coal strike on, and it takes an enormous amount of coal to go fast. Others said they thought it was a family ship, and slow by nature, to accommodate people who did not like to be rolled about.
The promenade deck is the greatest feature of a ship. "Wide and smootli, it serves as a sitting-room, lounging place, library — thongh all these rooms are on a good sMp such as this — and a street to walk on. One gets restless hemmed in by water only, and tramps the deck like a caged lion or lioness.
There were two days of fog, and the captain, who was very social, disappeared. The foghorn blew every five minutes until the fog vanished, then the captain turned up again.
One night there was a concert for the benefit of the sailors, the different musical guests contributing. On two occasions a portion of the promenade deck was covered with canvas and decorated with flags, while the passengers were at dinner, to give a ball in. The captain had it done as a surprise. Marjorie wondered at the great mugs of beer, three in each hand, each holding a quart, she saw the deck steward carrying to the musicians as she flitted in and out the dance in graceful sway. More than once these glasses were filled. But she did not know Germans and the German beer. It is good, and mild, and they were accustomed to it from their childhood.
The captain was a genial, little, fat, blue-eyed man, who flirted his coat-tails as he led the grand march previous to the dancing on the nights of the balls. He was trusty, too. On his return to the Faderland the Kaiser was to reward him with a medal for some daring feat hQ had led in rescuing a ship, .
All in all, a good ship is an excellent place to spend a week or two if one does not feel the motion too much.
The night before the ship landed the captain announced the lighthouse on English soil, and all were jubilant. Next day they encountered the Needles, some natural rough stones before the Isle of Wight, on the way to Southampton.
It took several hours to land from the little boat the passengers for Southampton were put oif on, as the ship went on to Bremen, Germany.
Marjorie had risen early that morning and gone out to see how the land lay, but there was very little of it. However, she saw a glorious sunrise. All was gold — the sky, the tips of things, the water fairly dazzling, changing mirrors of it; the clouds afar; the deck and all nature. The iJVive air itself vibrated with the golden sheen, and she fled from the glamour of its beauty. His Majesty felt much better, and discussed it with his party whether they should go to the Isle of Wight, some acquaintances on the ship. having mentioned it as an interesting place to visit ; but Osborne was not open to the tourist, and they concluded to remain in Southampton a few days, stopping at the Badly Hotel.
A quaint city they found Southampton. The remains of Canute's house, worked into a more modern one, took them far back into English history. The old city wall, dated A. D. 1400, with its tower, steps and trees, was quite charming, and the ladies showed their appreciation of it by each taking a snapshot.
Next day they went to Lyndhnrst, driving through a beantiful way and getting fascinating glimpses of the country as they merrily bowled along, arriving there for lunch. They were told that it was once a ducal home, now a resort, but charming in the extreme. Back yards and stables were so hidden by walls and undergrowth one would never be aware of their presence in exploring did not an upstairs window bear down on them. Over the south front a magnolia tree, then in bloom, was sprawled and twisted like a vine instead of having a trunk and stiff limbs. Here the garden was luxuriant, the tennis court near the house and bordered with small flowers ; the larger flowers and trees beyond; a hedge or wall all around; no neighbor's yard was visible.
Inside there was such an air of refinement and repose, Marjorie pictured to herself the old Duke sitting about with the family and friends, carriages coming and going through the handsome gates on the north front; the merrymaking; the good cheer attending such commotions. And it was with a sigh of regret she left the greenhouse, bearing into the dining-room, to continue the drive to New Forest, where stands the monument marking the spot on which William Rufus of England fell when he was accidentally ( 1) shot by an arrow sent by his friend Walter. Proper inscriptions are traced on the triangular upright stone, and the beautiful trees, the stillness, the romantic aspect, brought the whole scene to Marjorie 's mind — the king, the friend, the deer, all had their places in the drama as she conceived it, and she was pleased with herself for having remembered enough of her English history to make it so realistic to her.
Leaving this place, other sights crowded their thoughts, such as English villages with thatched roofs and tangled gardens bring. Nearing one house, Marjorie begged his Majesty to stop the carriage — she must see inside of it.
^'Why, Marjorie, it would not be decent to ask those people to let us see the inside of their house. ' ^
*^0h, papa, we won't put it that way; we will stand outside the gate and tell them how lovely the yard is, how pretty the children are whom you see with the lady by the wild rose bush ; then we will admire the house, so they will ask us in; then we will beg leave to photo the whole thing, and they will be so pleased over this it will not seem rude," Marjorie said, as fast as she could, for fear of getting his assent too late, or after they had passed. But the carriage had stopped now, at the Princess's bidding, for she and the Countess wanted to take photographs. For answer to Marjorie 's entreaties his Majesty had looked at the Countess and Princess, who both signaled yes to his inquiring eyes. After walking around outside, and taking a picture or two, the three ladies were invited inside the gate, and did as Marjorie had said in such a skilful manner that they were taken even into the stables, where were twelve lovely Jerseys, each having her name hung up on a board in front of her stall. They were being milked by the man of the place. When the Princess came to one bearing her name she proclaimed it to the smiling Englishwoman, pulled it off the wooden peg and waltzed all around with it, giving the other Princess a hug and a pat that made the gentle beast blink her soft eyes. When, later, they were conducted to the dairy, on the opposite side — the house proper being in the middle — the Countess said truthfully she had never seen so many large bowls of milk covered with such rich cream outside of a creamery. Whereupon the good woman led the way to the parlor and set them down to glasses of as fine milk as any one wished to drink.
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