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Etchings of a whaling cruise, with notes of a sojourn on the island of Zanzibar. To which is appended a brief history of the whale fishery

J. Ross Browne · 1850 · Scanned text

172,871 words · about 12 h 6 min to read

Period artwork: Interior of the Bodleian Library, 1845
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Licence: PD · Library of Congress states the book is in the public domain and free to use and reuse (https://data.labs.loc.gov/digitized-books/README.html); published 1850, author long deceased · Library of Congress, Selected Digitized Books (https://www.loc.gov/item/05022637); text via the Common Pile (CC BY 4.0 compilation, per-document rights preserved)

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About this book

Author
J. Ross Browne
Language
English
Published
1850
Length
172,871 words · about 12 h 6 min
Sections
40 reader sections
Text
Scanned text, read from page scans by OCR; may contain errors
Rights
Public domain

 

Contents (40)
  1. Front matter under 1 min
  2. Preface about 7 min
  3. Chapter I under 1 min
  4. Chapter II under 1 min
  5. Chapter III under 1 min
  6. Chapter. IV under 1 min
  7. Chapter V under 1 min
  8. Chapter VI under 1 min
  9. Chapter VII under 1 min
  10. Chapter VIII under 1 min
  11. Chapter IX under 1 min
  12. Chapter X under 1 min
  13. Chapter XI under 1 min
  14. Chapter XII under 1 min
  15. Chapter XIII under 1 min
  16. Chapter XIV under 1 min
  17. Chapter XV under 1 min
  18. Chapter XVI under 1 min
  19. Chapter XVII under 1 min
  20. Chapter XVIII under 1 min
  21. Chapter XIX under 1 min
  22. Chapter XX about 1 min
  23. Conclusion under 1 min
  24. Appendix about 1 min
  25. Chapter I about 23 min
  26. Chapter III about 10 min
  27. Chapter IV about 9 min
  28. Chapter V about 9 min
  29. Chapter VI about 31 min
  30. Chapter VIII about 31 min
  31. Chapter IX about 41 min
  32. Chapter X about 1 h 4 min
  33. Chapter XII about 21 min
  34. Chapter XIII about 1 h 4 min
  35. Chapter XIV about 27 min
  36. Chapter XV about 55 min
  37. Chapter XVII about 31 min
  38. Chapter XVIII about 39 min
  39. Chapter XIX about 28 min
  40. Chapter XX about 3 h 52 min

Continue:

Front matter

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Preface

Within a few years past, the condition of our merchant seamen has excited very general interest. It is gratifying to perceive that the efforts made in their behalf by the humane and the liberal have been productive of the happiest results. Facilities for their moral and intellectual improvement are now within their reach ; attention is paid to their comfort ; the difference between oppression and discipline is beginning to be observed ; and cases of insubordination and mutiny will soon be comparatively of rare occurrence.

While the laudable exertions of philanthropists have effected so much for the happiness of that useful class of men, it is not a little singular that the abuses existing in the whale fishery are scarcely known beyond the limits of our northeastern coast. The subject is one of great moment, especially to the people of New England, who are largely interested in the whaling business, and who have ever manifested a warm regard for human rights. To them, the condition of seamen engaged in that service is a matter of too much importance to remain unheeded, when properly understood.

In submitting the following narrative to the public, I am actuated mainly by a desire to make my experience as useful to others as it has been to myself; and, by a faithful dehneation of the service in which I spent so eventful a period of my life, to show in what manner the degraded condition of a portion of our fellow-creatures can be amehorated.

I feel confident that there is much in the cruel and op-

IV PREFACE.

pressive abuses prevalent in the whale fishery to enlist public sympathy. There are now in active employment more than seven hundred whaling vessels belonging to the New England States, manned by nearly twenty thousand hardy and intrepid men. It is a reproach to the American people that, in this age of moral reform, the protecting arm of the law has not reached these daring adventurers. We are indebted to them for the extension of our commerce in foreign countries ; for valuable additions to our stock of knowledge ; for all the benefits resulting from their discoveries and researches in remote parts of the world ; and yet they are the most oppressed class of men in existence. History scarcely furnishes a parallel for the deeds of cruelty committed upon them during their long and perilous voyages.

The startling increase of crime in the whale fishery demands a remedy. Scarcely a vessel arrives in port that does not bring intelligence of a mutiny. Arc the murderous wrongs which compel men to rise up and throw off" the burden of oppression unworthy of notice? Will none make the attempt to arrest their fearful progress ? Such a state of things surely calls for investigation. My limited experience enables me to point out some of the causes of crime on the high seas. If it be possible to diminish them by more attention to the welfare and comfort of the crews, and to the punishment of masters, not only for positive acts of cruelty, but for morally degrading those under their command, justice certainly requires that the remedy should be speedily carried into effect.

So far as relates to myself personally, I take this opportunity of stating, that during the unpleasant term of my servitude before the mast, I was treated as well by the captain and officers as they were capable of treating any common sailor. The desire to revenge private wrongs, or

PREFACE. V

gratify malice, can not, therefore, be justly attributed to me. My design is simply to present to the public a faithful delineation of the life of a whaleman. In doing this, I deem it necessary that I should aim rather at the truth itself than at mere polish of style. A due regard to fidelity induces me to present the incidents and facts very nearly In their original rude garb. I have no faith in softening or polishing stern realities. Let them go before the world with all the force of truthfulness ; and if they can effect nothing, the blame will not rest upon the narrator. I claim no higher credit than that of being an accurate reporter of passing events, with the privilege of commending what is right, and dissenting from what is wrong. I have suffered too much, not to feel the woes of others. Where reproof is merited, where injustice has been done, where human rights have been invaded, I shall ever lift up a deprecating voice. It is one of the glorious prerogatives of a freeman to denounce tyranny and injustice ; and no fear of exciting enmity shall deter me from exercising it. I have espoused the cause of seamen ; I have shown the flagrant abuses to which they are subject ; I have exposed the cupidity of owners and the tyranny of masters ; and I do not expect to escape censure. No man ever enlisted in a good cause without making enemies. Truth is always offensive to those who have cause to fear it. If, therefore, there be any who may feel disposed to abuse me for exposing the wrongs of seamen, they may rest assured I prefer their censure to their praise.

Mr. Richard H. Dana nas given, in his " Two Years before the Mast,"* a faithful and graphic delineation of life in the merchant service. The thanks of every just man are due to him for his noble exertions in behalf of the suffering mariner. Previous to the publication of his work, little was known of the real hardships encountered by sail-

* Harper's Family Librarj', No. 106.

VI PREFACE.

ors ; and to Mr. Dana may be attributed the moral revolution which has since taken place in the merchant service. I should be very backward in presenting my narrative to the public, after the brilliant success of a work written under nearly the same circumstances, if it were not that each describes an entirely different service. The duties, treatment, mode of living, and every thing connected with the voyage of a whaleman, differ widely from those of the merchant sailor. I believe no one has yet attempted a full and continuous narrative of forecastle life in the whale fishery from actual experience as a hand before the mast.

Having had no previous acquaintance with the topography of the islands visited in- the course of our cruise, or the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and no books to which I could refer while at sea, I was obliged to rely chiefly upon my own observation ; so that the little which I may have added to what is already known of those islands must be taken in connection with the circumstances under which I obtained my information. It should be borne in mind that this is not designed as a work of reference for geographers and naturalists. I claim no higher rank for it than that of a mere chronicle of incidents and adventures.

The notes of a sojourn on the Island of Zanzibar will, I trust, derive some interest from the fact that very little is known of that island and its inhabitants. Since the embassy to the courts of Siam and Muscat in 1832-3, but more especially since the visit of a vessel belonging to the Imaum of Muscat to this country a few years since, it has become customary to laud this Arabian potentate in the most extravagant terms of admiration. I have no disposition to detract from his high reputation ; but, at the same time, I must say, no living sovereign has been more universally misrepresented, both as regards character and power. I enjoyed, perhaps, a better opportunity of becoming ac-

PREFACE, Vn

quainted with the true character of the Imaum of Muscat, the extent of his dominions, and the condition of his subjects, than any of those writers who have described, in such glowing terms, the splendor of his court, his munificence toward the American government, and his unhmited power over the islands near the eastern coast of Africa.

I take pleasure in acknowledging my indebtedness to Mr. A. A. von Schmidt, the talented artist who has so admirably executed the drawings. An intimate personal acquaintance with this gentleman for many years past induced me to show him my rough sketches taken during the voyage ; and, through his skill and kindness, I am now enabled to present them to the reader in a more perfect state, but with all the spirit and freshness of sketches from life. I am happy to perceive that his skillful pencil is not idle, having been called into requisition by the Honorable Edmund Burke, commissioner of patents.

Though young in years, it has been my lot to encounter many of the vicissitudes of a wandering life. May I not be indulged, then, in the privilege of an adventurer — that of telling of dangers past in my own way? If I have dwelt at some length on the dark side of things, it will be admitted that I show a strong preference for the sunny side. It is no pleasure to me to harp upon the ordinary frailties of human nature. Indeed, I think I may be allowed to say, that

" I own the good, while smarting with the ill, A.nd love the world, with all its frailty, still."

With these few remarks in the way of explanation, I submit my narrative to the indulgence of the public ; and if it should be the means of directing attention to the unhappy condition of that class with whom I was for a brief period of my life associated, I shall consider myself repaid for the trials and hardships of the past. J. R. B.

Washington, D. C, July, 1846.

Chapter I

A few Words of Introduction. — Life in Washington. — Castle-building. — Plan of a grand Tour. — The Dignity of Office. — Departure fi'om the Capital. — The Dutch Skipper. — Embarrassing Situation. — A New York whaling Agent. — Consigned to New Bedford.— An old Blubber Hunter's Experience .... Page 1

Chapter II

A new Friend. — Examination by the Fitter. — A Sailor's Boarding-house. — Jolly Set of Whalemen. — Captain BiU Salt. — Our first Lesson in Lunars. — A Song. — The Fitter's Kindness. — The Barque Styx and Owners. — Fine Promises. — Weigh Anchor. — Repentance . .14

Chapter III

A Sketch of our Captain. — First Night at Sea. — Remedy for Sea-sickness. — The Calcutta Hole outdone. — Stormy Weather. — The Gulf Stream. — Reefing in a Gale. — Vain Regrets. — Rough Fare. — Voracity of the Portuguese . . . . . .22

Chapter. IV

Trouble on Board. — Choking a Seaman. — All Hands called Aft. — A Scene in the Waist. — Laying down the Law. — Duplicity of the Owners. — Choosing Watches. — Preparations for the Whaling Ground. — Fatiguing Exercises ...... 31

Chapter V

Disti'essing Illness of my Friend. — His brutal Treatment. — Unfeeling Conduct of the Portuguese. — Their Ignorance. — Setting Boats' Crew Watches. — A Chase after Black-fish. — Evening Pastimes S9

X CONTENTS.

Chapter VI

More Trouble on Board. — Cruelty toward a Seaman. — A School of Whales. — Prize alongside. — Remarks of the Down-Easter. — Cutting In and Trying Out. — Land ho ! — Peak of Pico. — Terceira. — Trading. — Character of the Islanders. — Scenery. — Adventure on the Island. — An unpleasant Predicament . . . Page 47

Chapter VII

"A Gam." — Departure from Terceira. — Pico. — Island of Fayal. — ViUa Orta. — Part with my Friend. — Landing the Sick. — Juggling for a Watch. — Depai'ture from Fayal. — Gloomy Prospects 76

Chapter VIII

Quarreling Aft. — A Row between the Captain and Mate. — Return to Fayal. — Annoyances. — ^Murderous Designs of the Cook. — Under Weigh for the Indian Ocean. — Monotony of the Passage. — Pastimes. — Canary Islands. — Horse Latitudes. — Grand Whale Chase. — Six Whales alongside. — Beautiful Effect of the Moon 104

Chapter IX

Make the Cape de Verdes. — Isle of SaJ. — Bonavista. — Isle of May. — Raising Breaches. — Leton's Rock. — Humor of the Cook. — Isle of St. lago. — Porto Praya. — Bill Mann " Three Sheets in the Wind." — ^Bounty. — Its Effects upon the Crew. — A Sail. — British Convict Vessel . . 147

Chapter X

Approach the Equator. — Sketch of an old Whaleman. — John Tabor's Ride Sketches of the Crew. — Routine of Duty. — Standing Mast-heads. — Ship-keeping. — Signals ...... 165

Chapter XI

Cross the Equator. — Martin Vas Rocks. — Isle of Trinidad. — Bill Manii's Account of Governor Trinidad. — A large Albatross. — Right Whale Chase. — Christmas Day. — Off the Cape of Good Hope. — Tremendous Gale. — Condition of the Vessel. — Passage from the Cape to Madagascar. — Kill a Whale off Fort Dauphin. — Cape St. Mary. — St. Augustine's Bay. — Cruise in the Mozambique Channel. — A Fight. — Two Men Flogged . . . 205

CONTENTS. XI

Chapter XII

Isle of Makumba. — Wood-cutting and Hot Weather. — Amval at Bembatooka Bay. — Town of Majunga. — American Tradei's. — Natives. — Liberty Ashore.— -Grand Dance.— Dinner at Mohammed Desharee's. — Quarrel between the Captain and Mate. — Great Fete in Honor of the Governor. — Ambolamboes and Sacklaves.- — Departure from Madagascar ..... Page 224

Chapter XIII

Cruelty to a Portuguese Boy. — Make the Comoro Isles. — Visit from the Sheik's Secretary. — Johanna. — Bay of Henzooanee. — Description of the Town. — Hozain and his Certificates.- — Jack America. — Adventure with the Sheik. — Description of Syed Mohammed . . . . . . . . . . 264

Chapter XIV

Mohammedan at Prayer. — Beautiful Glen. — Upset in a Canoe. — Bull Fight. — Terrible Combat between the Down-Easter and the Bull. — Leave Johanna. — Exciting Whale Chase, and Captm-e of a Whale.— Trouble and Discontent. — Make Zanzibar. — Desertion of three Men. — Speech of the Captain. — Condition of the Crew

Chapter XV

Effects of ill Treatment. — Scene in the Forecastle. — Combination to refuse Duty. — A bad Predicament. — Revolt. — Dreadful Condition of Things on Board. — Appeal to the Consul. — Interview with him. — Exertions to find a Substitute. — Disappointment. — Suspense. — Hope. — Another Disappointment. — Bargain with a Quadroon. — Swapping Places witha Negro.^ — Procure my Discharge. — A happy Release. — Good-by to the Styx .... 308

Chapter XVI

Description of Zanzibar. — Imaum's Harem. — Castle Antiquities. — Inhabitants of N'Googa.— Sowhelian Customs. — Poetiy. — Imaum's Palace. — Commercial Advantages of Zanzibar. — Treaties. — Aharaet Bin Hamees. — Rajab. — Exaggerations of Travelers.— Despotic Government. — Possessions of Syed Syed Bin Soultan. — Presents to his Highness. — Fate of the American Pleasure Boat . 328

XU CONTENTS.

Chapter XVII

Arabian Towns. — Topography of N'Googa. — Fatal Effects of the Climate. — Unchristian Treatment of a Scotch Seaman. — Wretched Condition of the Natives. — Barbarous Treatment of Sailors. — The Sultan's Generosity toward the American People. — Directions for the Preservation of Health Page 357

Chapter XVIII

Superstitions of the Inhabitants. — Hassan and the Devil. — Jeram Bin Seva's Horror of Mesmerism. — The big Snake. — Funeral Ceremonies of the Sowhelians. — A Mohammedan's Aversion to Pork. — Death of a Portuguese Boy. — Character of the Arabs. — A Bridal Ceremony. — Marriage Law. — Sowhelian Dances. — The Coolies. — Jungle Dogs. — Death of a Shipmate. — Practicing Medicine. — Auctions. — Sale of the Brig Bogota .... 384

Chapter XIX

Gambling. — Horse-racing on the Nazee Moya. — Warlike Exercises. — Religious Customs. — Visit to the Interior of the Island. — An Oriental Scene. — Caravan. — Desci'iption of the Shambas. — Grand Dinner at Hadja Mouchad's. — Retm-n to Town. — A Funeral 419

Chapter XX

Arrival of a Brig from the Persian Gulf. — A Whaling Skipper. — Suspense. — Arrangements for a Passage Home. — Departure from Zanzibar. — Passage round the Cape of Good Hope . . 444

CHAPTER XXL

Make St. Helena. — Preparations to go Ashore. — Dinner at the Consul's. — White Ladies. — A Whaling Captain. — Love and Music. — Visit to Napoleon's Tomb. — Pohteness of a Yamstock. — Anecdote of a Frenchman. — Departure from St. Helena . . 450

CHAPTER XXII. .Sketch of a good Captain. — Amusements. — Dana's Narrative. — A pattern Husband. — Baffling Winds. — The Gulf Stream. — A Vessel abandoned. — Land Ho ! — The Captain's Wit. — Make Cape Cod Light-house. — Hospitahty of the Citizens of Salem. — Bad News. — Arrival in Washington. — Visit to the West. — Changes. — Home and its Pleasures 476

CONTENTS. XUl

Conclusion

Fate of my Comrades. — Narrative of the Sufferiugs of my Friend

W . — Unparalleled Case of Cruelty. — Account of the Yankee

Boy. — The Mockery of the Law. — Injustice toward Seamen. — Keview of the Voyage. — Reflections on the present Condition of the Whale Fishers.— Flogging, and its evil Effects.— Imperfections of the United States Consular- System.— Life of a Whaleman.— Tyranny.-The End Page 484

Appendix

Historical Sketch of the Rise and Progi-ess of the European and American Whale Fisheries ...... Page 511

Statistical Tables, showing the Number, Tonnage, and Value of the Vessels employed in the Whale Fishery belonging to the United States ; the Ports from which they sail ; the number of Seamen engaged in the Service ; Condition of the Whaling Business, including Imports and Exports of Oil, from 1838 to 1846 ; Articles used in constructing and fitting Vessels ; Duties on same, &c. . 533 Extracts from the Speeches of Messrs. Grinnell, Rockwell, and Clayton, in reference to the present Condition of the American

Whale Fishery 539

Effects of a Protective Tariff 542

Honolulu Friend — French, English, and American Whaling Interests in the Pacific — Rules and Regulations respecting Seamen — Sandwich Islands ........ 543

Beale's List of Cruising Grounds, with Observations . . 547

Wilkes's Chapter on. the Whale Fishery .... 549

Anatomical and Physiological description of the Sperm Whale, its

Habits, &c 564

Right Whale 572

Fin-backed Whale 572

Species of Right Whale 573

Hunter's Remarks on the Whale Tribe 573

Inventions for Killing the Whale 574

Specimens of the Sowhelian Language 575

Numerals 580

ETCHINGS OF A WHALING CRUISE.

WITH NOTES OF A SOJOURN ON

THE ISLAND OF ZANZIBAR, ETC,

ETCHINGS OF A WHALING CRUISE.

Chapter I

A few "Words of Introduction. — Life in Washington. — Castle-building. — Plan of a grand Tour. — The Dignity of Office. — Departure from the Capital, — The Dutch Skipper. — Embarrassing Situation. — A New York whaling Agent.— Consigned to New Bedford. — An old Blubber Hunter's Experience.

I DEEM it but fair that tlie reader should know the circumstances under which I commenced my career of adventure. There is nothing uncommon in them — nothing tiiat I have the shghtest reason to conceal ; and it is only because I believe the interest of a narrative of this kind depends, in a great measure, upon the previous pursuits and associations of the author, that I make any allusion to matters which would otherwise be of so little moment.

When a man abandons all the enjoyments of civilized life, signs away his freedom, and voluntarily brings trouble upon his own head, it may naturally be presumed that he has wise motives for doing so. I am not sure that this was precisely my case. If I had any motives for so unaccountable a course, they were merged in the vague but absorbing desire inherent in me from early boyhood to see the world.

A

2 STENOGRAPAICAL AMBITION.

I date the circumstances which led to my cruise as far back as 1838. In that year I performed a voyage in a trading-boat from Louisville to New Orleans. The incidents of a year's life on the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers gave me a thirst for adventure; and I resolved to gratify it with as little delay as possible. My ^design was somewhat ambitious. I was determined to travel as a gentleman of leisure ; though, to accomplish this object, it was necessary I should have means. In racking my brain to find a panacea for empty pockets, I could think of no profession in which it was likely I should have so little competition to contend against as that of stenographer, from the fact that it requires more labor to become proficient in it than most other professions. Besides, I had a penchant for scribbling. I set to work at once, and studied Gurney's, Taylor's, and Gould's " hieroglyphics" with so much zeal, that at the expiration of about a year I was a mere hieroglyphic myself

In November, 1841 — then in my nineteenth year — I left Kentucky for Washington City. The prospect before me was quite inspiring. I was about to see the great men of the nation assembled in council ; to hear, for the first time in my life, the inrilling eloquence of our great orators ; to be the humble medium of preserving some of their flights for future ages to admire ! What a glorious galaxy of intellectual light was soon to shed its rays upon my boyish mind !

GRAND TOUR PROJECTED. 3

On my arrival in Washington, I was fortunate enongli to procure a good situation as reporter in the Senate. A long session had just opened. According to the nicest calculation, I thought myself (prospectively) in possession of at least six or eight hundred dollars ; and I spent my leisure hoars laj^- ing out the plan of my grand tour. First, I intended visiting France. If I should find nothing very attractive in Havre or Paris, I would immediately proceed to Italy, see all the curiosities, and, after touching at various ports in the Mediterranean, cut across from Constantinople to Alexandria and Cairo, visit the Pyramids, take a flying trip across the Isthmus of Suez, and return by the Cape of Good Hope. All this I intended doing in an economical, though gentlemanly way.

The prospect of being able to accomplish my wishes in so short a time encouraged me to diligent apphcation. Not a moment of my time was misspent. I was really a model of industry. When my work was over, I hurried to the Library of Congress to study the history, geography, and literature of the places to be visited in my grand tour. In this way I passed many of my leisure hours with pleasure and profit.

As the session advanced, much of my youthful enthusiasm began to wear away. A nearer acquaintance with the distinguished political leaders by no means increased my respect for them. At first, I could not approach a great man without trembling.

4 DISGUST AT WASHINGTON LIFE.

I never felt my utter insignificance till, with uncovered head ?md downcast eyes, I stood in the presence of those renowned statesmen and orators whose names I had learned to revere. I was not so young, however, but that I could soon see into the hollowness of political distinction ; the small trickery practiced in the stifbggle for power, the overbearing aristocracy of station, and the heartless and selfish intrigues by which public men maintain their influence. I became thoroughly disgusted with so much hypocrisy and bombast. It required no sage monitor to convince me that true patriotism does not prevail to a very astonishing extent in the hearts of those who make the most noise about it. The profession I had chosen enabled me to see behind the scenes and study well the great machinery of government, and I can not say that I saw a great deal to admire.

Such life had no attractions for me. I looked forward with anxiety to the close of the session.

There was one matter, about which I began to feel very uneasy — my contemplated visit to Europe. Where were the funds to come from 1 As yet, I had received from the sources upon which I had based my calculations barely enough to defray my expenses. Alas for my grand tour !

" The best-laid plans of mice and men gang aft agley."

Among my acquaintances was a young man from Ohio, who had temporary employment in the Treasury Department. Gifted with a fine intellect, and

GRAND TOUR TO BE MADE ON FOOT. 5

of most accomplished and engaging manners, he was just such a person as I had often wished to have as a companion. We first met at a social soiree ; and in a very short time I found that he was a man after my own heart. A strong friendship sprang up between us. We visited together, disclosed our feelings and plans to each other, spent all our leisure hours in pleasant conversation, and resolved at length to travel together, if we could contrive some means

to raise a sufficient sum. W , unfortunately,

was poor like myself.

The summer was now well advanced, and we agreed it should not close before our departure, even if we should be reduced to the necessity of performing our grand tour on foot. The latter, it is true, was rather a rash determination, considering we were not gifted with the power of the Israelites, who walked across the Red Sea. For the purpose of enjoying our prospects without interruption, we spent every fine evening in the Capitol Garden, where, inspired by the moonlight, flowers, shrubberies, and murmuring fountains, we talked of the various surprising things we were going to do ; how we would fall in with some extraordinary chances during our travels, make our fortunes, marry a couple of Arabian princesses, and return home to enjoy our good luck in peace, and excite the envy and admiration of mankind with accounts of our brilliant exploits. This was all very fine, and I hope it will not escape the reader's memory

ROUTE DETERMINED.

Near the close of the session, finding mj expenses and profits were nearly balanced, I resolved to remain no longer in Washington. My enthusiastic friend was ready to start with me at a moment's notice. Our minds were soon made up as to the route and means. We were to work our way to Europe, and, once there, depend upon our own wits for success in the pursuit of our object. We were very enthusiastic in the belief that energy and perseverance would overcome all the obstacles that poverty might throw in our path.

I well remember the night previous to our departure. It was that of the 4th of July. After the usual ceremonies of the day, there was a grand exhibition of fire-works in the President's garden. A large concourse of citizens, visitors, members of Congress, and diplomatic characters, had assembled on the terrace of the Capitol to witness the brilliant and imposing scene. Some kind friend had circulated a report that we had received a commission from his excellency, Mr. Tyler, to arrange a matter of great national importance with the government of Portugal. The consequence was, that several of our distant acquaintances, who had formerly recognized us with a stiff nod, now crowded around us, and bid us good-by in the kindest manner imaginable, wishing us a most cordial reception at the court of Donna Maria.

Having procured passports at the State Department, we took our departure in the cars early on the

AMOUNT OF FUNDS IN POCKET. 7

morning of the 5th of July, 1842. As it was not probable we could find a vessel in Baltimore bound for Europe immediately, we continued on to Philadelphia, where we spent a few days, and obtained some letters of introduction from a friend in the Custom-house to distinguished gentlemen in different parts of Europe. Finding no encouragement in Philadelphia for tourists with slender means, we proceeded to New York.

Our joint purse on leaving Washington amounted to about forty dollars. Of course, we could not deny ourselves the gratification of visiting the various places of public amusement ; besides, being gentlemen up to that time, it was indispensable that we should patronize the best hotel, ride in an omnibus or hack whenever we did not feel disposed to walk, and be liberal with servants and porters. At the expiration of a few days, it alarmed us to find that we had but eight dollars left.

Upon application for temporary employment, with a view to replenish our means, we learned that business was very dull, and young men were glad to avail themselves of the privilege of passing their time usefully in mercantile houses without remuneration ; a species of amusement not particularly adapted to our circumstances. With due humiliation, let it be told, we were soon reduced to the necessity either of writing to our friends for a remittance, or of being insulted with an invitation to depend upon the charity of casual acquaintances. The first was out of

8 DUTCH SKIPPER.

the question ; it would destroy our diplomatic reputation ; the last was too gaUing to our pride to be entertained for a moment.

In this dilemma we strolled down to the shipping, and went on board a vessel bound for Bremen. The captain, a jolly-looking Dutchman, sat upon the companion way smoking his pipe, while he kept his eye upon some of the crew who were at work on the main deck. He received us very kindly, and gave us much information on the subject of sea-faring life. It would be a difficult matter, he said, for two young men dressed as we were to procure employment on board a merchantman as light hands ; but if we put off our " long togs," and went to work in a corn-field for about three months, to give us a hardy look, we might succeed. Where there were upward of four thousand seamen idling about the wharves, it would be no easy matter for "green landsmen" to make a voyage. On the whole, he gave us rather an unfavorable idea of the life of a sailor, and advised us to try something else. He thought it a pity that young gentlemen of education should waste their time in a pursuit so little adapted to their physical strength. There were rough fel lows enough in the world who could do that sort of work better than persons who had been delicately raised.

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