Stanley's wonderful adventures in Africa. Comprising accurate and graphic accounts of the exploration of equatorial Africa; the finding of Livingstone by Stanley; the expedition to the great lakes by Sir Samuel Baker; the discoveries of Lieutenant Cameron in his overland journey across the continent; the exploration of the Congo by Stanley

Front matter

A^

HENRY M. STANLEY.

stanley's

Introduction

All explorations in Africa in former years were made by travelers simply to gratify curiosity or from a desire to penetrate beyond lines reached by other men. All the results they desired or expected to achieve were amusement and fame. But in later years they have assumed an entirely different aspect. From Livingstone, who first began to open up the " dark continent/' to Cameron and Stanley, who pierced its very heart, all the explorations have tended to one great end — the civilization and Christianization of the vast population that inhabits it. No matter what the ruling motives may have been in each — whether, as in Livingstone, to introduce Christianity ; or, in Baker, to put a stop to the slave trade ; or, in Stanley, to unlock the mystery of ages — ^the tendency has been the same : to bring Africa into the family of continents instead of being the earth's " pariah ;" to throw light on this black sj)ot of our planet, and make those who inhabit it practically and morally what they are really — a portion of the human race.

The men who have contributed most to this great end are those whose explorations are traced in this volume. As in all books of travel there is much that is merely personal, and a great deal, though necessary to accurate geography and natural science, yet is of no interest to the ordinary reader, one is able to curtail them without in any way lessening their intrinsic value. So, also, the incidents and adventures of any special interest may be grouped together without all those minute details that go to make up a daily journal. In fact, the great drawback to the interest one

VI INTRODUCTION.

takes in a book of travels, is, those tedious details that go BO far toward making it up. What the traveler thinks worthy of recording, is not always what the reader deems worthy of perusal. There are also meteorological observations, geological theories, dissertations on language and ethnological questions and statistics, that may be more or less valuable, and yet possess little interest to the general reader. All these may be left out or results alone given, without not only not injuring the book, but really adding to its interest.

"VVe have acted on this theory in giving in one volume the contents of seven- In doing this, we have endeavored to leave out nothing of real value to the general reader, but, on the contrary, to make the narrative, by being more consecutive and direct, more interesting. The truth is, the trouble is not to make a large book of travels, but a compact, racy and readable one. The tendency always is to expand too much — to spread a little matter over a large space. The works of the travelers mentioned in this volume cover different ground, and hence each one possesses an interest peculiar to itself, while all tend to the same end. A person, therefore, who reads the narrative of only one, gets but a partial idea of what has been going on in Africa for the last few years. It is desirable to know all, and yet few can buy all the expensive books of the various travelers. We have in this work endeavored to meet that want, so that one, at a moderate expense, can acquaint iiimself with all that has been lately achieved in Africa, as well as obtain a thorough knowledge of the habits and customs of the various people and tribes that inhabit that continent.

Acknowledgment is due and is hereby tendered to Messrs. Scribner & Co. for their kind permission to draw from Mr. Stanley's first volume, " How I Found Livingstone," in the preparation of this work.

Chapter I. Pactb

How republican institutions develop character — Webster, Clay, Lincoln, Grant and Stanley — The latter a native of AVales — Educated in a poor-house — Becomes a teacher — Ships as a cabin-boy to New Orleans — Adopted by a merchant and takes his name — Lives in the Arkansas forest — Given up as dead by his adopted father — Returns on board a Mississippi fiat-boat — • Death of his father without making a will — Life with the miners and Indians — Enters the Confederate army — Is taken prisoner — Enlists in the United States navy — Goes to join the Cretans to fight against Turkey-— Robbed by brigands — Travels — Visits his native place — Gives the children of the poor-house a dinner — Makes an address — Herald correspondent in the war between England and Abyssinia — Beats the governmental messenger — Sent to Spain as war correspondent — Receives a startling telegram from Mr. Bennett to come to Paris — Hasty departure — Affectionate parting with children — Singular interview with Mr. Bennett — Accepts the leadership of an expedition to find Livingstone — His peculiar fitness for the undertaking — His remarkable qualities as exhibited in this and in his last march across Africa 19

CHAPTER 11.

The Dark Continent" — Description of it — DifiSculties of exploring it — Hatred of white men — The first real encroachment made by a missionary — Description of the portion to be explored — Its articles of commerce — Its future destiny '. 42

Chapter III

Oatlines of Livingstone's explorations during a period of nearly thirty years — First exploration — Crosses the continent from west to east — His second expedition — The last — His supposed death — Sympathy for him — Indifference of the British Government to his fate — Bennett's bold resolution to send Stanley after him 48

Chapter IV. Pagb

Stanley's search for Livingstone — Lands at Zanzibar — Organizes his expedition — The start — Stanley's feelings— The march — Its difficulties— Men sick — Delays — Meeting with a chief — Dialogue on the burial of a horse — Loss of his bay horse — Sickness and desertion — Terrible traveling — A hospitable chief — A gang of slaves — African belles — A ludicrous spectacle — A queer superstition — Punishment of a deserter — A ludicrous contrast — A beautiful country — News from Livingstone — A walled town — Stanley attacked with fever 55

Chapter V

The rainy season sets in — Disgusting insects — The cook caught stealing — His punishment and flight— The march — Men dispatched after the missing cook — Their harsh treatment by the sultana of the walled town — A hard march — Crossing the Makata river — The rainy season ended — Five miles of wading— An enchanting prospect — Reaches his third caravan, and finds it demoralized — Shaw, its leader, a drunken spendthrift — Delays the march — Stanley's dispatch to him — Lake, Ugombo — Scene between Stanley and Shaw at breakfast, the latter knocked down — Attempt to murder Stanley — Good advice of an Arab sheikh — A feast — Farquhar left behind 70

Chapter VI

Three of his caravans meet. — A waterless desert traversed — Stanley down with the fever — A land of plenty and of extortion — A populous district — A modern Hercules — An African village — Stanley curbs his temper for economy's sake — A good sultan — News from one of his caravans — Curious natives — Flogged by Stanley into proper behavior — Salt plains — Stanley stops to doctor himself — A curious visit from a chief — A noble African tribe — A mob — Quarrel over the route to be taken — Settled by Stanley — A merry march — Condensation of Stanley's account of the character of the country and the tribes of Central Africa 90

CHAPTER VIL

Reception in Unyanyembe — His house — Reports of the Chiefs of his caravans — A feast — Luxurious living of the Arabs — Arab country — War against Mirambo, in which Stanley becomes an ally — ;I8 taken sick — Bombay thrashed — Stanley joins the Arab army — Capture of Mirambo's stronghold — Villages laid waste — Mirambo's revenge — Arabs defeated and

TABLE OF CONTENTS. U

PAGi:.

Stanley left alone — Is sick — Final departure — His indomitable will and courage — A touching extract form his journal — Deserters — Shaw, the last white man, left behind — Corpses on the road — Mollifies a sullen chief — Strong medicine — A ludicrous scene — The paradise of hunters — A right Toyalhunt 118

Chapter VIII

A beautiful picture — A mutiny — Narrow escape of Stanley — Saved by his prompt courage — Swift punishment of the leaders of the mutiny — Exciting news from Ujiji — Difficulties in the way — Resolves to go round the next village — Stealthy marching — A new danger — Vain attempt to stop a woman's screaming — Rapid marching — Stanley startled by the sound of waves bursting in rocky caverns — An unexpected danger — Narrow escape — The end approaches — Hurrah 134

Chapter IX

View of the Tanganika — First sight of Ujiji — The American Flag — Livingstone's servants — Dr. Livingstone, I presume — The meeting — Livingstone's letter bag — A budget of news — Bringing new life — The cook's excitement — Livingstone's deplorable condition — The dream realized 143

Chapter X

Rest at Ujija — Stanley's love for Livingstone the best eulogium on his own character — The night — The morning interview — Life with Livingstone — Survey the Tanganika together — Livingstone accompanies Stanley to Unyanyembe-^The long march — Life in the place — Preparations for parting— The last breakfast — The last sad farewell— Stanley's homeward march — Its perils — Inundations — Makata Swamp — Terrible marching — Stanley sends off for relief — Its arrival — Bagomayo reached at last — Noisy entrance — Stanley's joy — It is suddenly dashed — Cruel conduct of the press — Startfor home 160

CHAPTER XL

The Expedition of the Khedive of Egypt to suppress the slave trade — Sir Samuel W. Baker placed at the head of it — Extent of the slave trade — outfit of the expedition — Preparations on a grand scale— The army — The rendezvous at Khartoum — Failure on the part of the Khedive — The expedition starts — Obstacles met — Cutting channels for the fleet — Slow, toilsome work — A hippopotamus charges the vessel — Men become sick — Baker shoots a hippopotamus — A crocodile killed — The expedition permanently stopped — Discouragements 174

Chapter XII. Pagx

Baker's heroic wife — A slaver caught — A sickening spectacle — Freedom — Description of the camp — A cargo of slaves discovered — Slaves freed — Wholesale matrimony — Exploring the White Nile — A new start — A new lake — The White Nile reached at last — A fierce night attack by a hippopotamus — A thrilling scene — Gondokoro at last reached 193

Chapter XIII

The country formally taken possession of — War at last — A night attack on a native village — Disaffection in the army — Attacked by crocodiles — An old man-eater killed — A campaign against the enemy — The army propose to return home — Baker obtains corn and restores subordination — The army greatly reduced — A fight — Target shooting at men 215

Chapter XIV

Vessels leave for Khartoum with the invalids — Abdullah's villainy — Exploring the White Nile — Meeting a friendly tribe — Interview with the Sheikl Sorcery and Talismans — Magic — An elephant hunt — Its moral effects — Scramble for the flesh — The tribes seek peace— Elephants enter the fort — A wild scene — Elephants gathering fruit — An adventure with a hippopotamus — The country at peace — Baker resolves to start south 235

Chapter XV

The determination to advance-^A desperate position — Soldiers draw the ' carts to Lahore — A beautiful country — The future capital of Africa — Reaches Fatiko — power of music over the natives — Grotesque dancing of naked women — Starts for Unyoro — Beautiful country depopulated — Proclaims peace — Livingstone 253

CHAPTER XVL

The start — Exodus of the white ants — A great luxury — A beautiful country — Masindi — King Abba Rega — His walk and appearance — The interview — Bufi"oons — Queer result of a lecture on the slave trade — A station commenced — Planting vegetables — The king's visit — Magnetic battery — Photographs — A curious interview — Formal annexation of the country — Sends off a part of his force — Commerce established — Vegetables planted •—Dark omens — A drunken king — Asks after Livingstone — A fort built... 265

Chapter XVII. Pagb

The troops poisoned — A sudden attack — The town set on fire — A sad spectacle — Baker discouraged — A perilous position — Fears of Abdullah — Hypocrisy of Abba Rega — Presents pass between him and Baker — Treachery — A narrow escape — Baker's quarters set on fire — A second attack — The neighboring villages set on fire — Forethought of Baker's wife — Preparations to start for Rionga 275

Chapter XVIII

The start — The station fired — The march — The country aroused — An ambuscade — Howarte speared — Second day's march — A sharp fight — Stripped for the race — Constant fighting — Eating the enemy's liver — Foweera at last reached — Interview with the king — His appearance — Baker ofi"ers to make him ruler over the territory of Abba Rega — A treaty made — Sealed by drinking each others' blood — Baker resolves to return to Fatiko — Arrival of messengers with bad naws — The return — The wife compelled to walk — Arrival at Fatiko — Treachery — The attack — Flight and pursuit— Th& victory — Baker turns surgeon 2B6

Chapter XIX

Arrival of Cannibals — Children devoured — Small-pox disperses them — A grand hunt — The mode of conducting it by nets and fire — The result — Life at Fatiko — The second hunt — Killing a lion — A woman's rights meeting — A happy community, in which neither religious dagmas or law cases enter — News from Livingstone — King Mtesa — Arrival of reinforce- '

ments — Bad military conduct— Baker writes out a set of rules for Abdullah and starts for home — Releases captive women and children — An expression of gratitude not asked for — Kissed by a naked beauty — Concluding remarks — A missionary's outfit — Official report — A handsome tribute to his wife — Africa's future , $ 302

Chapter XX

Cameron's expedition — Its origin — Change of leaders— Difficulties at the outset — Start— A tall and manly race — Naked savages — News from Livingstone — A methuselah — The country improved — Unyanyembe reached — Occupies Stanley's house- — A slave auction — Sickness and discouragements — A stunning blow — Livingstone dead — Death of Dillon — Despondent thoughts — A desperate resolve — Crossing the Lugungwa — Ujiji... 322

Chapter XXI. Pagh

Cameron pushes on to the Lualaba, and resolves to follow it to the sea — It has no connection with the Nile system — No canoes to be had — Tipo-Tipo — Handsome women — Inquisitiveness of the women — St9pped by a ruse — Interview with King Kasongo — Resolves to visit some curious lakes — Attacked by the natives — Contracts with a slave-trader to take him to the coast — Explorations of lakes — Houses built in the lakes — Description of Kasongo and his character and habits — His harem — The rules that govern it — The religion of the country — A curious bridal ceremony — Floating islands — The Congo route abandoned 34(J

Chapter XXII

The departure — Character of the caravan — Horible ceremonies at the burial of a chief of Urua — Start of the caravan — Its bad conduct — Joined by a slave-gang — Its sorrowful appearance — The camps of the caravan — Dreary marching — Appearance of the country — Naked women dressing their hair elaborately — Arrival at Alvez village — The luxury of coffee, onions and soap — Reduced state of Cameron's men — Reaches a Portuguese trader's house — A festival — A lascivious dance — Beautiful scenery — Interview with King Kongo — Cameron's sufferings begin — Desperate condition — A forced march to the sea with a few men — First sight of the sea — His welcome — His dangerous sickness — Visit to the consul at Loanda — Men sent to Zanzibar — His return home— The slave trade 359

Chapter XXIII

Stanley thinks of Africa and Livingstone's unfinished work — Determines to complete it — Takes a boat of his own along — At Zanzibar again — Starts for the interior — Takes a new route — The country passed through — Deserted by his guides — Loses the path — A painful march — Starvation and death — A gloomy prospect — Two young lions killed and made into broth — A trunk used for a kettle— A painful spectacle — Men sent off lor food at last return — Joy of the camp — The march — A new type of natives— Naked beauty — Sickness and death — Death of Edward Pocoke — His burial — ■ Stanley's letter to his father — A m.an murdered — Itwru reached — A populous plain — Intercourse with the people — A magic doctor 377

Chapter XXIV

The camp — View from it — Hostile demonstration — A three days' fight — A massacre — A modern Sodom — A terrible vengeance — Twenty-one of the expedition killed — A complete ruin — Provisions obtained — The march repage"

STimed — Only a hundred and ninety-four men left out of three hundred with which he started — A gloomy out-look — Mistaken for Mirambo — The Nyanza reached at last — A description of the country he had passed through 392

Chapter XXV

Mustering his force — The death roll— Selecting a crew of eleven men, he sets sail — Leaves the camp in charge of Pocoke and Barker — "Speke's Bay " — Coasting northward — Shimeeyu River — A large island — Description of the shores and people — Strange stories told him — A lonely channel — Superstition of the natives—" Bridge Island " — Under the equator — Stanley looked upon as a being from another world — Fleeing from hippopotami — Treachery — A narrow escape — Three quarters of the lake thoroughly explored 404

Chapter XXVI

Stanley the first white man that ever sailed round the Victoria Nyanza — Establishes the southern source of the Nile — Treachery of the natives — Stanley's revenge — A hostile fleet scattered by him — Three men killed — Two singular islands — The Ripon Falls — The Nile — Curious inlets — — Mtesa, king of Uganda — His reception of Stanley — Imposing ceremonies — A noble native monarch — His capital — His army and large territory — Half converted to Christianity by Stanley — Anxious to have missionaries sent to his country — Stanley's mode of sending them, and the kind of men they should be — A mission established and broken up — False statements in the papers about it corrected 415

Chapter XXVII

Stanley continues his explorations — Drunken natives — A suspicious reception — A peaceful night — A wild waking up — A startling spectacle — Hurried departure — Magassa's fleet — Lack of food — A fearful storm — Bumbireh Island — A bright prospect — Stanley entrapped — In deadly peril — A crowd of demons — A fearful night — Prompt action — Barely saved — - Swift and terrible revenge — A frightful storm — Refuge Island — A grateful camp — Provision secured — Another storm — A staunch boat — Steering for camp — His joyful greeting — Excitement of the men — The secret of the men's affection for him 424

Chapter XXVIII

The work accomplished — Feelings of satisfaction — Pocoke's report — A narrow escape for the expedition — Death of Barker — Sweet repose— Pleasant •memories— Future anticipations — Waiting for Magassa — Resolves to return to Uganda by land — Is prevented — Sends to the king of Ukerewe — His request granted — Visits him — The interview — Royal hospitality — A stratagem — Stanley starts for Uganda — A new camp — Return to the old one — Conspirators foiled — Refuge Island

Chapter XXIX

A rest — Resolves to punish the Bumbireh — Sets sail — Message to the people of Bumbireh — Imprisons the king of Iroba — The king of Bumbireh in chains — Arrival of Mtesa's canoes — Hostility of the natives — Moves on Bumbireh — The savages expecting him — Plan of battle — The battle — Killed and wounded — Rejoicing over the victory — The natives completely subdued — Stanley gives them a lecture — Effect of the victory on the neighboring tribes — His losses — Prepares to start for the Albert Nyanza —Size of the Victoria Nyanza — Muta Nzinge~Is it and the Albert one lake — Stanley's journal and map do not agree — Mtesa at war — Stanley aids him — Uganda— Abba Rega once more — Baker's and Stanley's journal agree — Stanley asks for fifty thousand men — Mtesa gives him two thousand 452

Chapter XXX

Force of the expedition — Its start — First march — Through hostile Unyoro — The encampment — Mount Gambaragara — Its summit occupied by white people — Live on a rock in the middle of a lake — Their origin — Other strange tribes — The march — Frightened people — The lake reached without opposition — A miserable failure — ^The reason of it — Stanley's feelings • — The return — Report to Mtesa — His wrath — Liberal offers — "Wonders of the country — A generous, peaceful king — Lake Windomere — Source of the Nile — Absurd theories — The hot springs of Mtagata 462

Chapter XXXI

Back to Ujiji — Pleasant associations — The mystery of Tanganika — No outlet ■ — Cameron's expedition — Thinks he discovers the outlet — Doubts of Stanley — The lake constantly rising — Stanley starts to examine for himself — • Bags two zebras — A whole village massacred — Reaches Cameron's outlet • — Explores it thoroughly — Declares Cameron to be mistaken — The future outlet — Livingstone's influence — The small pox in camp — Desertion of his men — Prompt measures — Crosses the Tanganika — More desertions — People of Manyema — Singular customs 484

Chapter XXXII

Livingstone at Nyangwe — Remembrance of him by the natives — " The good man " — His troubles here awakens Stanley's pity — A magnificent country . —Glowing description of it — Ruined by slavery — The slave trade — Its character — Ebony skeletons — Horrible sights — The traders — Mode of capture — Faithlessness of the Prince of Zanzibar — Extracts from Stanley's journal — A depopulated country — The way to stop the traffic 493

Chapter XXXIII. Paor

Stanley meets Tipo-tipo, the friend of Cameron — Learns all about Cameron's movements — Stanley warned not to go on — Fearful stories — Contracts with Tipo-tipo to escort him sixty camps — Self-reliance of Stanley — "Women an obstacle in the way of advancing — Nyangwe — Its market — A lively scene — The two chiefs — A large harem — The original inhabitants — Strength of the expedition 502

Chapter XXXIV

The great march begins — Gloomy prospects — March through a dense forest — Axes used to clear the way — A village in the forest — Superiority of the inhabitants — The men disheartened — Slow marching — Discontent — Difficulties increase — Tipo-tipo wishes to be released from his engagement - — People that smelt iron-ore — A row of skulls as an ornament for the village — Hunting sokos — The cannibals — Naked women — The Lualaba reached — Not to be left again — The natives crossing the river 512

Chapter XXXV

Congo changed to Livingstone — Frightened natives — The march — Deserted villages-^The land party lost — Stanley's anxiety — A dash on the natives, one man killed — Uledi dispatched after the missing party — The lost found ^—The march — A floating hospital — Passing rapids— Tipo-tipo wishes to turn back — A queer village — Increasing sickness — The dead every day thrown into the river — A fight — Marching on — A desperate fight of two days — A successful stratagem — Tipo-tipo resolves to leave — Stanley's speech to his men — Christmas day — A frolic — A boat race — The parties separate — A touching farewell — A sad day — Stanley tries to arouse the men \ 522

Chapter XXXVI

A common fate binding all — "We want to eat you" — The home of the hip- • popotamus — The persuasive eloquence of the cannibal prisoners — A novel sensation — A peaceful tribe — The cannibals prevent a fight — A sudden attack — A successful stratagem — Another fight — A hard carry around the falls — An advanced tribe — River full of islands — Magnificent scenery—* Stanley's expedition — A grand barbecue — A necessary fight — Night-work — Seventy-eight hours' incessant toil — Passing the rapids — A lost man — A thrilling spectacle — G-reat daring — Lost men — A fearful night — Rescue in the morning — Brave Uledi — A carry round the falls — A brilliant manoeuvre — In a net — Man meat — Another fight — The Congo starts for the sea — Another fight — A deserted village — Around the falls — Muskets — A fight — Home of the hippopotami — A new war-cry — Astonishment of the natives at seeing a white man — More enemies — Stanley's speech — A fight — Three hundred and fifteen muskets against forty-four — Starving — Friendly savages — Abundant provisions — Death and burial of a chieftain's wife — A friendly tribe — Beautiful women — Serpents in camp — The last and fiercest fight — Stanley Pool-^Friendly chiefs — Curious interview with King Itsi — A general peace 53^

Chapter XXXVII

PAG a Tribal differences — "What is the cause of them — The Congo tribes — The cannibals left behind — Change of scenery — Livingstone Falls — A wild stretch of water — Carrying boats over land — Exhausting, slow work — A canoe lost — Stanley falls thirty feet — Rocky Falls — A fearful sight— Kalulu over the falls — A canoe shoots the Kalulu Falls in safety — A third canoe shoots the falls and disappears — Soudi's strange story — More rapids — Difficulties increase — Narrow escape of Stanley — Joy at his deliverance — Four cataracts in sight — Strange music — Less than a mile a day — The big cataract — Scaling a mountain one thousand feet high — Astonishment of the natives 554

Chapter Xxxviii

Last instructions — A magnificent forest — Stanley thinks of dug-outs at home — Resolves to build canoes — The first tree felled — Two canoes finished — The boats and expedition moving overland — Arabs stealing — Redeeming a captive held for theft — Canoes over the mountain — Rest — Third canoe built — Dispiriting news— Native superstition — A narrow escape — Launching of the third canoe — Rains — Rise of the river — Storms — The expedition moves over the mountain — Frank takes the canoes by the river — Mowwa Falls — A terrific scene — Passing the Mowwa Falls — Uledi caught in Lheft - — His sentence — A touching scene — Atonement — Forgiveness — Christian principles in Heathens — A atrange superstition — The natives demand that Stanley's note-book be burned up — A painful dilemma — A successful stratagem — Shakespeare burned — Frank's last night with Stanley 567

Chapter XXXIX

Elevated from the place of servant to that of friend — Proposes to toss up to determine whether they shall follow the Lualaba to the sea or not — Chance decides they shaU — Pocoke's shoes become worn out in the forest — Is made lame — Passage of the Mowwa Falls — Stanley's peril — Pocoke's fatal self-will — His death — The sight that stunned Stanley — A gloomy night for him — Pocoke's character : 577

Chapter XL

Stanley mourning for his friend — A mutiny — Sadness of Stanley — Return of the deserters — Boats carried over a hill — The chief carpenter carried over the falls — Stanley runs the Mbelo Falls — Miraculous escape — Feeling of his people — The end of the chasm — One mile and a quarter a day for eight months — The Arabs steal, and are made prisoners — Arabs left in slavery for stealing — Falls of Isingila reached — Stanley resolves to leave the river — The Lady Alice abandoned — The march for Boma— Uledi slaps a king in the face— Stanley sends a letter to Boma — The messengers depart — He moves on — Meets an enemy who becomes a friend — A glad surprise — Food in abundance — Luxuries for Stanley — A song of triumph — Stanley's feelings, as shown by his letter — Reach Boma — The reaction — Stanley offered a steamer home — Prefers to stand by his Arabs^ — Reception at Cape Town — Zanzibar reached — Joy of the Arabs— An affecting scene — Farewell to Stanley 587