A journal : comprising an account of the loss of the brig Commerce, of Hartford, (Con.)

Front matter

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Cfass "J ) 33^

Book %2

CHAP. 1. Page

Short biographical sketch — Voyages — Author is taken prisoner by H. B. M. frigate Surprise— discharged™ taken again, and held till peace.-— Brig Commerce — her owners and crew — voyage to New -Orleans — to Gibraltar — her wreck on the African coast - - - 15

CHAP. IT.

Shipwrecks — Wreck of the brig Commerce described — danger of the crew — landing on the African coast — wrecked articles — disposal of money — first view of a wandering Arab of the Zahara Desert — he is joined by more — they approach us, menace us, and retire — first night in Africa — we are driven aboard the wreck — attempt to go to sea in a boat — in vain — escape of Capt. Riley and capture of Antonio - - - 21

Chap. III

A consultation — measures adopted to clear the surf— we put to sea in the long boat — alarms and distresses — stood out four days— stood in three days, and landed on the 5th Sept. 1815, to the north of Cape Barbas, western coast of Africa ----- 30

Chap. IV

Brief historical sketch of the discoveries upon the African continent — origin of present European nations, and African tribes— Canary Islands — CapeBajador — Porto Santo — Madeira — Cape Verd— Cape of Good Hope — De Gama — Columbus — East-Indies — America — Coast of Africa —Interior of Africa 38

Chap. V

Passage from' Cape Barbas— mutual pledge—the coast — crossing precipice — projecting rock — watery cavern — view of Zahara — sleeping on hill — prayer — capture by Arabs, and separation 50

CHAP. VL

Separation of the crew— taking leave— departure into the desert — mode of travelling — water — goat skin— arrival at a tent— mode of making fire— cooking and eating—

CONTENTS.

i ravelling upon Zahara — Mahommedan worship — clothing - - - - - - -63

Chap. VII

Meeting, with part of the crew — preparations for a journ -y— lent — Furniture — man-saddle — female do. — loading tent and furniture — gazelle — Mr. Williams and Barrett — Christian and Mahommedan religion — separation — mode of spinning and weaving — of making a tent — of pitching it — scrupulous regard to worship - 7£

Chap. VIII

Painful travelling — salutations — Mr. Williams' situation- — Barrett — rocks— Africans enslave each other — a wandering male Arab — female do.— American pork — Mr. Savage — interview with him — a rarity 88

Chap. IX

Origin of wandering Arabs — vegetables on the desert Zahara — gloomy prospect — roots- -snails — water obtained — submission to fate—last meeting and last interview with Capt. Riley, Mr. Savage, Clarke, Burns, and Horace — situation upon desert—valley — meeting with Porter 98

Chap. X

Sympathy — Hogan — his situation and feelings — received at the tent of Ganus — my mistress — fictitious ceremony — power of the female Arabs — gloomy valley-— Dick — misery of black Africans — Messrs. Wilberforce and Clarkson — American flag upon Zahara desert - 112

CHAP. XL

A shower — a female fashion — an adventure — a journey — dress of a wandering Arab — smoking — Gum-Arabic — slaying a camel — a repast — Hogan — Arab hospitality 121

Chap. XII

A storm of sand — distress — a great story — Porter's sickness — a dismal plain — rapid travelling— nauseous water — description of a well in Zahara desert — marble mountain — deep valley and monument— impossibility of escaping — Spaniard — view of the ocean — Cape Mirik — author sold to another Arab of the tribe of W T iled D'leim 13(1

Chap. XIII

Africa — the coast — Interior — Deserts — Mountains — Capes — Rivers — Islands — Straits - - - 145

Chap. XIV

Mahomet Meaarah— Fishing— Cape Mirik — innocent deception — obstinacy— Barrett —Hon. William Willshire—

CONTENTS.

calendar — second tour into the desert — thanksgiving — description of camel — mode of instruction in reading and writing - - - - - 155 CHAP. XV.

A long journey— Porter — locusts, mode of catching, cooking, and eating them — narrow escape — Mahommedan teacher — blacksmith upon the desert— salt-bed — debility approaching to death - - - 169

Chap. XVI

Medical practice — Hogan and Dick — sale of Porter — happiness in Zahara— author regains his health — is sold to Hamet Webber, an Arab merchant of the Wiled El Kabla — African and European merchandise— an expected battle — gunnery — females of the El Kabla tribe 179

Chap. XVII

A Caravan — an armed Arab — black mountains — cultivated land — apprehension of danger — African serpents — Hamet joins a caravan which is attacked — mountains of sand — fatigue — caravan broken up — author sold to Bel Cossim Abdallah of Wadinoon — wounded Arab — arrival at Wadinoon, - - - - - 188

Chap. XVIII

Wadinoon — its situation — number of houses and inhabitants — cattle — people —gardens — vegetables — barley harvest — cruelty of Bel Cossim — reaping, threshing, winnowing and grinding — keskoosoo — eating— market and fairs — manner of building houses — SheicVs house - - 197

Chap. XIX

Public worship — fasting season — feasiing season — circumcision—wreck of a prize to the Romp, and her crew— redemption of the crew of the British brig Surprise — Sidi Hesham, his appearance and power—Jews, decree concerning them— tobacco and snuff— Hamet Webber 209

Chap. XX

Nature of government among the Arabs — marriage ceremonies — interment of dead— the Saint, Sidi Timah— a mound — practice of physic — amusements — ransom of Porter — quarrel between Wadinoon and Akkadia — a flood — ploughing season — description of locusts — muttomorahs - - - - - 2i?

Chap. XXI

Manuscript in English— author purchased by a Shilluh — leaves Wadinoon- dangerous travelling— distant view of Santa Cruz — monuments- -El'ajjah Mahomet—letter and express sent to Mogadore — the Shilluh — productions of

CONTENTS.

their country — story of the Spaniard—message from Mogadore — passport to that place - - - 230

Chap. XXII

Departure with El'ajjah Mahomet — El- wad Sta — sand hilis — the ocean — Atlas mountains — arrival at Santa Cruz — description of that place --passage over a mountain — a contrast — romantic view— cottage in a forest — dogs — view of Mogadore — reception by Mr. Willshire — admission into his house — cheering American flag 241

Chap. XXIII

Character of Mr. Willshire— description of Mogadore — the Jews — markets — manufactures— public buildings — mode of worship— manners of the people— population — harbor — shipwrecks — letter from the Hon. James Simpson ----- - 250

Chap. XXIV

The author, Davis, and Brown, leave Mogadore for Taagier — the country— Azamor — river Ctmmirabih — Douar of tents- -fearful apprehensions — equestrian exercke — escape by night — aqueduct — arrival at Rabat - 257

Chap. XXV

Rabat, description of it — the harbour — shad— Mr. Abouderham--- Jewish feast — Sallee--a Lake— river Saboo — scenery — Rock of Gibraltar, and Mount Atlas™ arrival at Tangier — reflections — Hon. James Simpson— Mount Washington, in Africa — passage to Gibraltar— Mr. Henry, consul— Mr. Simpson's letter - - 264

Introduction

THE narratives and journals of adventurers, the shipwrecked, the traveller, and the captive, are often told with exaggerations, and not unfrequently condemned by the discerning. Such narrations gratify those who are always seeking " to see or hear some new thing;" but they only raise the wonder of the credulous, and deceive the inquirer after truth. But it may be here remarked, that readers are readily disposed to disbelieve every thing that goes counter to their own experience, that surpasses their own observations, or that represents the actions of men, and men themselves, in a manner that violates their ideas of human nature. The author of the following Jounal has seen life in a sphere uncommon to his countrymen : — he has endured miseries uncommon to human nature. But by the blessings of a merciful Providence, he has survived to relate them to his countrymen. However imperfect may be the manner in which he may give his relation, he is determined that the matter shall be founded on facts alone. If these facts are of a nature calculated to excite the doubts of his readers, he can only regret it; and will content himself with the reflection, that as he is incapable of deceiving his readers, he will not wound his own conscience by uttering a known falsehood. He hopes not even to be mistaken.

B

INTRODUCTION.

The narrative of my highly respected friend, Capt. James Riley, is already before the public. It has excited that interest which the history of human sufferings is calculated to produce among a humane people. For two months he w r as a captive among a race of beings, whose " tender ^mercies are cruelties" Durrtig that period, I, together with the rest of his unfortunate crew, was likewise a sufferer. At the end of this time, he was released from a cruel bondage, and was restored to his native country and anxious friends. A more cruel fate attended me. I was still detained as a captive among the wandering Arabs; and was compelled, for nineteen months, to endure as much as human nature can bear and yet survive. I have, how r ever, abundant reason to rejoice that I am now among my friends, while the fate of some of this wretched crew is still unknown. The following journal shall be a faithful and accurate detail of all the knowledge I possess of this ill-fated crew*

JOURNAL, fcc.

Chap. I

Short biographical sketch — Voyages — Author is taken prisoner by H. B. M. frigate Surprise — discharged — taken again, and held till peace, — Brig Commerce — her owners and crew — voyage to New-Orleans — to Gibraltar— her wreck on the African coast.

THE life of an humble individual is of but little consequence to a community, where the lives of the great are read as a common amusement. But as I am about to relate an interesting part of my own, I hope I shall escape the imputation of vanity by very briefly relating it from my birth. I was born in the town of Wethersfield, Conn. — a pleasant and fertile town, situated on the west side of Connecticut river, on the 19th day of November, 1792. I continued with my parents there until I arrived to the age of twelve years. At this time I went to reside In the town of Middlebury, Vt. In this flourishing village, in which is situated a University which begins to rank amongst the first in New-England, I spent the winters in obtaining a common school education; which, added tc the little knowledge I had before acquired in my native town, gave me such rudiments of an English education, as is common with the

ROBBING JOURNAL.

young men of New-England. I returned to Wethersfield at the age of about fifteen years, and continued with my father until I became sixteen. Situated in a town where ship-building was then a leading business, and from which a great number of young men had gone to try their fortunes upon the ocean, I soon turned my attention from the peaceful and certain pursuit of husbandry, to the hazardous employment of a seaman.

My first voyage was made in a vessel, partly owned by my father, from Wethersfield to the island of St. Christophers. No incident happened to the vessel, to the crew, nor to myself, worthy of relation. No part of the cargo, nor any lives of the crew were lost.

The second voyage I made was in the same vessel to Wilmington, N. Carolina, from thence to the W. Indies— back again to Wilmington— from thence again to the West-Indies, and back to Wethersfield. A pleasant voyage.

My third voyage was made from New-York to the West-Indies, from whence I returned to New-London in Connecticut.

Thus far I had met with no disasters uncommon to the pursuit of a sea-faring life. I became attached to.it, as is common with the young men of New-England. The fascinating charms of the ocean, and the pleasing diversity of a sailor's life, led me along, like the song of the Syren, to the endurance of privations and miseries, which, when I now review, call upon me for the most undissembled gratitude to that merciful Being, ^vho suffers not a sparrow to fall to the ground

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without his knowledge; and who mercifully

" tempers the wind to the shorn lamb."

My fourth voyage was commenced in the month of February, 1813. The American canvass could no longer be spread with safety upon the ocean. Her proud and powerful mistress — wielding the trident of Neptune, would no longer permit the " striped bunting" of Americans to pursue its wonted course. We sailed from New- York for the neutral port of St. Bartholomews — were taken on our passage, by his B. M. frigate Surprise, and landed at St. Bartholomews, from whence, after a short detention, I returned in a cartel to New-York.

The fifth voyage I made, I sailed from New- Haven, (Ct.) for St, Bartholomews, in September, 1813, and was brought to by the British squadron lying off New-London. They took from our vessel about eighty barrels of provisions, and ordered us for Halifax. I remained there about two months. I then took a passage in a Swedish vessel for St. Bartholomews; having business entrusted to me at that island by a merchant in the city of New-York. I succeeded in accomplishing my business, and returned off New-London. The vessel, in which I was a passenger, was taken by the squadron, and I was put on board of the Borer, brig- of war, and sent again to Halifax. I remained a prisoner in the prison on Melville island, until the conclusion of the peace by the treaty of Ghent, I hoped to have been in some measure compensated for this imprisonment, by receiving pay for eighteen months employ, and imprisonment occasioned by that em

ROBBINS' JOURNAL.

ploy, by the merchant at New-York. — His failure in the mean time cut me off from realizing this hope; but as he is a man of the strictest honour 1 have no doubt but I shall yet be compensated. On my return to America, I found myself destitute of property and employ, but not of resolution.

I now come to the relation of the sixth and last voyage I have made. In relating it I sensibly feel a high degree of responsibility. But, taking the pole-star of truth for my guide, I am determined to satisfy my conscience, and, if possible, my readers.

I felt anxious to pursue a business with which experience had made me acquainted. The brig Commerce, of Hartford, Con. being owned by Riley & Brown and the Messrs. Savages, was fitted for sea. She was a fine stout built new vessel. The acknowledged respectability of her owners, as merchants, and the long experience and reputation of Captain James Riley, as her commander, induced me to enter her in the capacity of an able seaman. Her principal mate was Mr. George Williams, of Middletown — -her second mate was Mr. Aaron R. Savage, of the same place. The crew consisted of William Porter, Thomas Burns, James Clarke, and myself, seamen; Horace Savage, cabin boy; Frmcis Bliss, James Carrington, ordinary seamen ; and Richard Delisle, (a man of cojour,) cook.

This brig cleared out from Middletown for New-Orleans, with a small cargo — her ballast &eing brick. The object of the voyage to New- Orleans was to obtain a freight for a foreign market We sailed on the 6th day of May from Saybrook, situated at the mouth of Connecticut river. Nothing material occurred until off Carysfort reef, on the coast of E. Florida. The vessel struck upon this reef, and excited great apprehension in our captain and crew for the safety of the vessel and ourselves. We clewed down all sails, and let go an anchor, which immediately brought her to ; having passed the reef, and riding safe in about twelve feet water. We then lowered down her stern boat ; and the captain and four of the crew entered her — sounded below her for a safe passage — found one — weighed anchor, and passed through in safety. We arrived at the city of New-Orleans upon the 1st day of June. We here discharged our cargo, and took in a cargo of flour and tobacco. The two ordinary seamen, Bliss and Carrington, objected to going a voyage to Gibraltar, to which place the vessel was bound, and were discharged. Two seamen were shipped in their room, viz. John Hogan and James Barrett. On the 24th of June, we sailed from New-Orleans for Gibraltar ; and, after a passage of about forty-five days, we arrived at that place and landed our cargo. I was ordered, with three others, while lying in the bay, to go with Gapt. Riley on board a schooner, from New-York. In performing this service, assisting the schooner in beating out of the harbor, and returning to the brig, it having become almost dark, our boat was upset; and while we were hanging upon it, we were relieved by Gapt, Price, who returned with his schooner to our assistance ; and having bailed the boat we returned to the brig.

We now took in part of a cargo of brandy and wine. An elderly man, by the name of Antonio Michel, was taken on board to work his passage to New-York. On the 23d day of August, we set sail from Gibraltar for the Cape de Verd islands, to complete the cargo with salt. The usual course from Gibraltar to these islands is, to run down, and make the island of Madeira ; but Capt. Riley, wishing to make the passage as expeditious as possible, run down between the Canary islands and the African coast. We continued our course, with all sails set. The weather being thick and foggy, we passed the grand Canaries without discovering them. It was noticed by the metes and some of the crew, on the 28th day of August, (sea account,) at meridian, tkat the water was coloured, indicating a near approach to land. This circumstance was mentioned to Capt. Riley; but he was of opinion that this appearance was occasioned by the fog and the thick weather ; and he continued his course S. W. at ten knots an hour, until, at about 10 o'clock in the evening, we were wrecked on the coast of xlfrica, near Cape Bajador, between 26 and 27 degs. N. Latitude.

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Chap. II

Shipwrecks— Wreck of the brig Commerce described— danger of the crezv— landing on the African coast— wrecked articles— disposal of money—first view of a wandering Arab of the Zahara Desert—he is joined by more— they approach us, menace us, and retire— first night in Africa — we are driven aboard the wreck — attempt to go to sea in a boat — in vain— escape of Capt. Riley and capture of Antonio.

TO a seaman, the description of a shipwreck ts familiar from his knowledge of a vessel, the tackle, and the nautical terms of sea-faring men; but by that portion of readers who are not thus acquainted, no adequate conception can be formed of the appalling horrors of such a scene. When it is foreseen, and yet cannot be avoided, the mind is, in a degree, prepared to encounter it. It is fortified greatly by appealing to that Being who, " on the wings of mighty winds" directs the storm that is powerful enough to dash to pieces the strongest fab rick of human invention. But when it comes upon the unsuspicious, who are riding in apparent security upon that element with which they have become familiar, the scene is doubly horrible. Thus it came upon our worthy captain and his ill-fated crew. The gale, that we imagined was wafting us on our passage to our native shore, and the arms of our friends, dashed us upon the inhospitable coast of merciless barbarians. At a little past 10, on the night of the memorable 28th of August, our fine brig ran ashore with such violence as to start us from the deck, or prostrate us up-

ROBBINS' JOURNAL.

on it. We immediately let go our sheet anchor, clewed down our sails, and used every exertion to save her. But her fate was decided, and our exertions were vain. The sea broke with tremendous power over the starboard quarter, and our stern boat, being in danger, we took her on board. We then broke open the hold, and exerted all our energies in filling small casks with water from our large water casks, knowing that the dismal coast on which fate had driven us, was almost destitute of that indispensable necessary of life. We also secured all the provisions we could, as the vessel was now fast filling with water. At 12 o'clock, the weather became sufficiently clear to enable us to discover the beach off the larboard bow. The larboard bulwark was instantly cut away, to enable us to launch the boats with greater expedition and safety. The small boat was then lowered into the water, into which Capt. Riley and William Porter jumped, and carried a rope ashore which they made fast by means of sticks which had floated there from the wreck. We then got the long-boat overboard, and hauled her under our larboard bow. We threw over some barrels of water and wine, which floated ashore, and by those on shore were secured. We put into the boat two or three barrels of bread, and some beef and pork. I jumped into the boat with James Barrett, and, veering her by means of a rope fastened on board the brig, we approached the shore. The surf immediately filled her, We instantly jumped overboard, and saved some of our wet provisions and secured one barrel of bread wholly dry.

Capt. Riley, Porter, Barrett and myself were now ashore. The long boat being bilged, and the small one unable to stand the surf, we could not return to the wreck. Our companions on board, in the mean time, were heaving overboard chests, beds, and every articie that would float, that they could come at, and those of us on shore were securing them as they floated within our reach. Day-light at length appeared. Capt. Riley hailed the mates, who were both on board, ordering them to make fast one of the ropes, that extended from the wreck to the shore, around his trunk containing some specie. This being done, we dragged the trunk ashore. The brig was now completely filled with water. Capt. Riley ordered the masts to be cut away. This being done by those on board, our next attention was directed to the best means in our power, to rescue our companions from the imminent danger surrounding them. I had been ordered, with Barrett, to come ashore in the long boat with provisions, as before mentioned, and to return again. This was now impracticable, as the boat was bilged — the small boat would not have lived in the surf a moment — but a rope remained fastened to the wreck, and extending to the shore. This was loosened, and made fast to the hawser, by those on board, and by those who had landed, drawn to the shore, and made as fast as the slender means within our power would enable us to da it. It was now high water. The brig lay from twenty-five to thirty rods from the shore ;

HOBBINS' JOURNAL.

and between them, the surf was rolling and roarkig in a manner calculated to produce consternation and despair in the stoutest heart. Capt. Riley, by signals, as he could not now be heard, motioned to those upon the wreck to come ashore upon the hawser. He placed himself, together with Porter, Barrett, and myself at the hawser, as far in the water as we could stand, the surf all the while breaking over us. At length Hogan attempted the perilous passage. Suspended upon the hawser, between two worlds, uncertain to which every returning surge might waft him, he approached the shore. Before he reached it, he was so much exhausted, that he lost his hold — a surf washed him within our reach, and we saved him. The next that arrived and was received into our arms was Mr. Savage, second mate. Young Savage, (cabin boy,) Antonio, Mr. Williams, first mate, Clarke, Burns, and Dick, (man of colour,) came in succession, and landed at about sunrise on a coast containing a race of beings more merciless tha» the waves from which they had just escaped.

We now found ourselves with bodies exhausted, and minds agitated, stretched upon a desert shore. We saw, for nearly a mile on the shore, the fragments of a valuable cargo, which, twelve hours before, we thought safe. Our first attention was directed to the boats. We hauled them up from the surf, and gave Capt. Riley all the assistance we possibly could in gathering together the small amount of provisions and clothing which lay strewed along. This being done, our captain opened his trunk in which

ROBJBINS' JOURNAL. 25

were two bags of specie of $1000 each. He told us all to take as much of it as we could conceal about our persons. I declined taking any part of it, as I had already more of my own than I could thus hide from the eye of an Arab, It is impossible to tell what would have been our fate, had not the Arabs discovered that we had in our possession the precious metals ; but I verily believe it was the discovery of it that induced them to heighten their demands for our ransom, and increase their cruelty to otfr persons. The other bag was buried in the sand. The sun was now rising over a sand hill that stretched along a short distance from the shore. Our attention was now attracted to the appearance of a human creature at the distance of nearly half a mile approaching us ; if that creature can be called human whose appearance is nothing but a slander upon our species. As he discovered the wrecked articles and our wretched group, he manifested, by his actions, the commotions of a mind agitated by the mingled operations of joy and fear. He came perhaps w ithin twenty rods of us ; and then, by signs, showed an intention of departing. Capt. Riley walked gently towards him, and by every sign that could be resorted to, endeavoured to persuade him to come and take possession of some portion of the wrecked articles. After interchanging signs, in token of peace, this horrible figure, that defied description, left us to our reflections upon this adventure. We were then endeavoring, with oars and the fragments of

broken spars, together with two of our steering

c

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sails, which we had secured from the wreck, to erect a tent and secure our provisions and water ; scarcely thinking of any thing else, from the peculiar perils of our situation. While busily engaged in this service, the figure before mentioned re-appeared; being joined by two aged females of the most frightful aspect, a boy, and two small girls, whom we supposed to be their children. More terrible visages never presented themselves to the astonished eyes and the agnated hearts of men. The gnashing teeth and opened mouth of the old man, stretching almost from ear to ear— his long grey beard hanging on his breast — his head covered with long bushy hair, standing in every direction — the red and flashing eyes of the old women, their tushes projecting from their jaws — and the more mild, thoughlferrible appearance of their ferocious brood, imparted feelings to us, better imagined than described. Although the old man, on his first appearance, showed evidence of fear, it was now changed to insolence. He broke open the chests, and plundered the clothing; and, approaching our tent, was about to wrest from us our provisions and water. We resolved that death should be his immediate portion, and that of his clan, if he attempted this ; indeed, had it not been for the almost certain knowledge that die sand hill concealed a numerous horde like his, they would soon have been deprived of the power of plundering us at all. They departed with their plunder, and left our wretched party either to despair, or to take measures for our future escape or safety. Capt. Riley proposed to attempt a repair of the long boat. Mr. Savage, Porter, Horace, and I, assisted him in doing this in the best manner we could. The rest of our shipmates, from that despair which produces desperation, had deprived themselves of the power of joining us in this necessary duty, by too freely using the wine within their reach. Some of these natives had furnished us with some fire, with which we cooked some salted pork, by fuel procured from the beach. This, with some bread and butter, furnished us with the last meal we were to enjoy from the provisions yet saved from the wreck. m The old man with his hideous followers had retired — the night came on — and although, on one side the ocean was dashing her surging billows upon the rocks we had just escaped, and on the other we were environed by the sand hill concealing probably a horde of wretches preparing on the approaching morning to recommence the work of plunder, and perhaps become our executioners, I sunk down, with my shipmates, excepting a watch, into a profound and refreshing sleep upon the sand under our tent.