Voyage of His Majesty's ship Alceste, along the coast of Corea

Front matter

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VOYAGE

HIS MAJESTY'S SHIP ALCESTE,

Chapter I

Voyage from England to the Brazils, the Cape oj Good Hope, Java, and the Gulf of ' Pe-tche-lee.

I HE British Government, on the representation of the Court of Directors of the East-India Company, respecting the trade with China, decided, with the view of relieving that branch of its commerce from the increasing vexatious impositions of the local authorities of Canton, on the measure of sending an embassy to the court of Pekin. As on a former occasion of a similar kind, a distinguished nobleman had been selected to fill the situation of Embassador Extraordinary from the King of

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Great Britain to the Emperor of China, who carried out with him a numerous suite, composed of gentlemen well skilled in every branch of natural knowledge, with many curious and costly presents ; so it was now determined to leave nothing short that couJd contribute to the splendour and respectability of the present embassy. The Right Hon. Lord Amherst (who had already filled the high situation of Embassador at the court of Sicily) was appointed to conduct this difficult and delicate mission. Mr. Henry Ellis (formerly employed in a successful negotiation with the King of Persia) was named secretary of embassy, with dormant powers to act as Minister Plenipotentiary, should any accident to the Embassador render that circumstance necessary. The Hon. JerTery Amherst, as page ; Mr. Hayne, as private secretary ; Mr. Abel, as surgeon and naturalist; the Rev. John Griffith, as chaplain ; Mr. Havell, as artist ; and Dr. Lynn, with Mr. Marrige, Mr. Poole, and some others

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to fill the respective departments, constituted the suite of his excellency. Lieut. Cooke, of the Royal Marines, was also attached to the embassy, on its landing in China, the guard being selected from that corps. The Hon. Mr. Abbot, Messrs. Martin, and Somerset, were likewise added to it at this period.

Many valuable presents, supplied, as on the former occasion, by the East-India Company, for the emperor and his ministers, consisting of specimens of our improved manufactures, made by the first hands, were also prepared. The command of the naval part of the expedition was intrusted to Captain Murray Maxwell ; and the Alceste, a frigate of forty-six guns, was fitted up for the reception of the Embassador and suite. His Majesty's brig Lyra, commanded by Capt. Basil Hall, and the General Hewitt Indiaman, by Capt. Campbell, accompanied the Alceste, the latter carrying out the presents.

On the 9th of February, 1816, the ships sailed from Spithead, and soon cleared the Channel, with a favourable breeze, which

b2 continued with us to Madeira, where we arrived on the 18th. In Funchal road we found the Phaeton, having Sir Hudson and Lady Lowe, with their suite, on board, in their way to St. Helena ; and the Niger, with Mr. Bagot, on his mission to America. Our stay here was only twelve hours, and, in the evening, we pursued our course to the south-westward. The weather becoming hourly warmer, our people, who had been badly clothed, and had suffered a good deal from the severity of the cold in fitting out the ship, now began to thaw a little : things were beginning to find their proper places in the ship ; and those unaccustomed to the rolling motion had, by this time, acquired their sea-legs. On the 4th March, in the evening, at the moment of crossing the equinoctial line, the voice of some one, as from the sea, announced himself as Neptune's eldest son, and, after putting the usual interrogatories, added, that his father being a little indisposed, and rather squeamish about exposing himself to the night air, had deferred his visit until the morning, when he would personally call on board

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to inspect the strangers who were now entering his dominions. The son of Neptune seemed now to sink again into the deep. In the morning, his godship, agreeable to promise, appeared, seated in his car (a gun-carriage), with his trident and other insignia, attended by Amphitrite, and all his usual train of inferior deities. He was received by a strange-looking guard of his own, the band striking up " Rule Britannia!" After paying his respects to the Embassador, the Captain, and the rest, the novices, of whom -there were not a few, were forthwith shaved, according to a practice immemorial, with a rusty iron hoop, full of notches ; and the lather being washed off, by playing the fire-engine in their faces, they were then wiped dry with a dirty swab. Much mirth and good humour prevailed; and a double allowance of grog finished the ceremony. We experienced none of the calms usual near the line, and nothing of moment occurred until we reached the lat. 20° 4" north, long. 31° 52" west, on the 16th March, when the Lyra and Hewitt were directed to make the best

6 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTl

of their way to the Cape of Good Hope, whilst the Alceste proceeded to the capital of the Brazils, where we arrived on the 21st of that month.

All the bold, as well as beautiful, features of nature, have conjoined to enrich the scenery of Rio Janeiro. The luxuriant descriptions of former travellers are by no means exaggerated, for it would indeed be difficult to exceed the truth in portraying the sublimity and grandeur of such a scene as presents itself on entering the harbour. The numerous islets appearing on this extensive sheet of water, — its richlywooded banks, rising like an amphitheatre on either hand, studded with villages and country seats, — added to the distant view of lofty and picturesque mountains, — form, altogether, a very unusual and noble landscape.

The death of the queen, which happened the day previous to our arrival, at the good old age of eighty-two, had rather cast a gloom over the city of St. Sebastian. The batteries and ships fired five-minute guns during the whole day and night; the

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Alceste, Indefatigable, and a Spanish frigate, following this example ; displaying also the usual exterior marks of grief, by hoisting the colours half-staff high 7 and topping the yards. The officers likewise wore crape ; and, from a positive order being issued to all the inhabitants to go into mourning, (which none dared, under the severest penalties, disobey,) the prices of all black articles felt a sudden and enormous increase.

The government of the Brazils seems perfectly despotic ; and it is painful to see even Englishmen lose the natural freedom of their character under such dominion. Some, who from long residence had imbibed the feelings of the Portuguese, would, in answering any question relative to public affairs, look cautiously around, to see who was near them, and then whisper their reply.

The barbarous system, however, which formerly imposed the most annoying restrictions on strangers, and prevented their landing, unless guarded like felons, has been happily overturned by the circumstances attending the arrival of Sir Sidney Smith with a British squadron, who could not be expected to submit to this kind of treatment; and consequently, a more rational and liberal state of affairs in this respect, has been gradually brought about.

The prince (now the king) during the period her majesty lay in state, was shut up, according to their usage, not to be seen by any but his chamberlain.

Swarms of priests occupied every avenue to the palace, and hung in clusters on the staircases. St. Sebastian seems to be a soil, in which these members of the autos dafc still thrive well.

With them the monastic discipline seems to be far less austere, than that which is exercised over the poor nuns of the convent of Santa Teresa, who are said to be so detached from all former friends and connexions in this world, that even the death of a father or a mother is not communicated by name ; it being merely notified that a parent of one of them is this day dead, and they are called upon collectively to pray for the soul of the unknown deceased.

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The Brazils have lately been raised from the state of a mere colony to the dignity of a kingdom ; and the residence of the court has conferred still more substantial advantages on it, arising from the emigration of the chief nobility from Portugal, and the transfer of their wealth to this country. Its commerce has of late years increased to a great degree, chiefly, however, under the direction of English houses.

The return of the court to the mother country, it is thought, would be the signal of revolt ; for it is not probable the Brazils would long remain in their present fettered state, whilst colonies in all directions around them are freeing themselves from the oppression of the mother country. The want of the usual public attentions of saluting the flag of a foreign power might have been accounted for under the present circumstances of the court; but it was singular (considering, more particularly, our late relations with Portugal) that a house for the accommodation of the Embassador and suite, during their short stay, and which had been granted to the former embassy, should have been refused in the present instance. The hospitality, however, of Mr. Chamberlayne, the British minister here, amply supplied this deficiency. The places of public amusement were of course shut; and the only spectacle, during our stay, was the funeral of the queen, which took place by torch-light ; all the military that could be collected, both horse and foot, lining the streets (which were illuminated) from the palace to the convent of Ajuda. The hearse and state-coaches were drawn up at the grand entrance, covered with black cloth, and near them the chief mourners, who were eight of the nobles, on horseback. Their dress was the ancient Portuguese costume of mourning. Each had a large broad-brimmed hat, rather slouching down upon the shoulders ; a long black cloak, or robe, with the star of some order affixed to it ; conveying to the mind of an English spectator the whimsical combination of a coal-heaver, a priest, and a knight. The king, accompanied by the two elder princes, attended the coffin to the principal porch, and saw it deposited in the hearse, when the whole cavalcade drove off, and the body was interred in the convent, with the usual religious ceremonies. The royal family next day appeared at the balconies of the palace ; on which occasion it is usual for the Portuguese to stand uncovered in the square opposite ; and, if any of the royal carriages are met on the road, the passengers on horseback must dismount, and even kneel.

Neither of their Portuguese majesties can themselves be considered as regular beauties; but the princesses are good figures, and certainly, upon the whole, handsome women. Don Pedro, their eldest son, promises to be a man of some spirit. Much indolence seems to exist among the inhabitants, and they are said still to possess their characteristic contempt of all reading; so that a publisher of books in the Brazils would probably earn but a lean livelihood. This country produces all the various fruits of the warmer climates ; such as pine-apples, oranges, limes, mangoes, guavas, melons, bananas, &c. ; the tea-shrub still continues to be an article of growth, under the direction of some Chinese accustomed to manage it ; and it is to be hoped they may succeed in extending and improving its cultivation. The slave-trade still exists to its fullest extent ; and this class of the population, however useful they may be, are certainly not ornamental ; being the ugliest race of negroes that can be collected from the African coast — Gaboons, Congos, and Angolas. Our West-India islands having been generally supplied with Fantees, from the Gold Coast, with Eyeos, and Ashantees, who are a much finer-looking people ; this circumstance, added, perhaps, to their improved condition, their better clothing, and general treatment, gives a slave of Jamaica a far less degraded appearance than one in this country. Yet, though the situation of the former is much ameliorated (and undoubtedly superior to his native state in Africa), it is unfortunate that the first European settlers of colonies, had not, instead of hunting down and oppressing the natives, trained them to habits of industry ; when the term slavery, so revolting to humanity even under the most favourable circumstances, so contrary to reason and natural rio;ht, need never have been known. Our East-India possessions, and late occupation of Java, sufficiently demonstrate the practicability of this system.

They do Buonaparte, here, the honour of being very much afraid of him ; and keep a bright eye to windward, lest he should break adrift from St. Helena, and come down upon them before the wind. This silly appearance of fear is something like the weakness of ordering his name never to be mentioned, than which, perhaps, nothing tends more to keep up his consequence.

This part of the Brazils is naturally hot during the months of December, January, and February ; but (more especially as the southern are found to be comparatively colder than corresponding northern latitudes,) it enjoys, during our summer, a sort of tropical winter, and is not considered an unhealthy climate.

The town of St. Sebastian, without any public edifice worthy of notice, is regularly built, and, from the late influx of inhabitants, is daily extending its limits ; but its police is bad, and the streets filthy. Although this country produces plenty of beef, yet, from want of care and management, it is such as would be considered carrion in England ; and in few parts of the world is there less accommodation for travellers, there being only a few casas, or inns, of the most wretched description.

The Brazils display an inexhaustible field for the researches of the naturalist, for no where else can the objects of his inquiry be more varied or multiplied. The state of society here is represented, by those whose Ions residence and close intercourse afford them the means of judging, as extremely demoralized. The men, in their exterior appearance, are a squalid, hysterical, grimlooking set; but the ladiespthough generally little, and dark-coloured, are not deficient in beauty or expression of countenance; they want, however, that elegance of gait and graceful walk, peculiar to the Spaniards. They are said to be more attentive to the external forms of decorum than to the essential practice of modesty ; but this, if true, may " depend/' as was suggested by an elegant writer of the last embassy, " on the example of the men f for it would scarcely be reasonable to expect the perfection of female morals, where every manly virtue is unknown. At least three-

urths of the world are in a slate of barbarism where women have no character at all; being either immured in seraglios, or the mere slaves and play-things of their savage lords ; but among those nations in that portion of it which has a claim to civilization, where they are allowed to have minds, and assume their just rank, the slightest glance will shew, that when honour, intelligence, and worth, are held in most esteem by the one sex, they are uniformly rewarded by corresponding good qualities in the other.

The ship having recruited her supply of very excellent water*, and other matters

* Captain Cook complained of the water here being very bad. — At that time, perhaps, the aqueduct was not so extensively covered, and secured from the admission of impurities, as at present.

adjusted, we took our leave of the American shore on the 31st of March, steering southeasterly until we got from 36° to 39° south, where we found the prevailing westerly winds. Keeping in the usual tract for ships crossing the Southern Atlantic, we passed the islands of Tristan d'Acunha, about fifty miles to the northward of them. The wind continuing favourable, we saw the Table Mountain on the 18th of April, and anchored on the same day in the bay. We arrived at a gay time, in the middle of horse-racing and balls. An India fleet touched here, homeward bound, one of the ships having on board the Countess of Loudon and family, on their passage to England. Cape Town has now become almost an English place, and is too well known to require any description here.

As strangers, on first landing here, we were forcibly struck by the remarkable difference of complexion in the female part of the society, compared with the brunettes we had just left at Rio Janeiro ; and an Englishman is probably the more inclined

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to esteem the beauty of the Cape ladies from its great resemblance to that which he is accustomed to admire at home. It is hinted, however, that this resemblance exists chiefly during youth, and that, in their maturer years, they are apt (from sedentary habits and want of exercise) to acquire a peculiar Hottentotish obesity. But this, perhaps, is only said by illnatured people.

The ship having gone round to Simon's Bay, and the necessary refitment being completed, his lordship embarked at this place, with the usual marks of attention on the 6th of May, and we proceeded on our voyage. From 38° to 40° south, we found our expected winds ; but, as winter was far advanced in this hemisphere, (latter end of May, and beginning of June,) the weather was cold, bleak, and boisterous, with a heavy sea. On the 24th May we made the islands of St. Paul and Amsterdam. Smoke was seen, as we approached, issuing from the crevices of the latter. It is here where the hot springs so nearly adjoin to the great salt-water basin, as to afford the

c singular exhibition of catching fish in the latter, and boiling them in the former, without taking them off the hook, and within reach of the rod. The state of the weather, which was very rough, and the time of the evening, did not allow us to verify this fact, but there is no doubt of its truth. An immense crater (now apparently converted into a sort of harbour, the sea having flowed into it) appears on the eastern side of the island. Having got sufficiently to the eastward for the purpose of fetching Java with the usual tropical winds, we began to haul to the northward and eastward, the weather of course becoming daily warmer; and, on the 8 th of June, we saw Java Head, and anchored next day in Anjeri road, where we found the Lyra at anchor, and saw the Hewitt off Cape Nicholas, on her way to Batavia, they having only arrived two days before us *. This pas-

* The superior sailing of the frigate enabled us to touch at Rio Janeiro, without in any way delaying the general passage ; as, notwithstanding this, she nearly overtook her consorts at the Cape. The same was the sage was extraordinary for its rapidity, for in ninety -two days, under sail, the ship had traversed about fourteen thousand miles, and visited every quarter of the globe.

After staying a day or two at the village of Anjeri (where we were amused with the ceremony of a Javanese wedding,) Colonel Yule, the resident of the Bantam district, accompanied by Mr. M'Gregor, waited on the Embassador to pay their respects ; and having provided the necessary accommodation for his lordship and suite to proceed overland to Batavia, they all set out on their journey thither. During our short stay here, the king, or sultan, of Bantam, died; and his uncle (the nearest heir to the sovereignty) refused to accept the title, preferring to live in humble retirement The Alceste, having completed her water, sailed also for Batavia, as she had brought out duplicate despatches for the evacuation of the island of Java. The case here, though she remained ten days behind, being able to afford them, in such a run, a start of 1000, or 1500 miles.

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Lyra, in the mean time, had been sent on to China, with a communication from Lord Amherst to Sir G. Staunton.

On the 21st June we sailed from Batavia, with the General Hewitt ; saw the island of Lucepara on the 23d, and entered the straits of Banca. Our voyage up the China sea presented nothing unusual. On the 9th of July we met His Majesty's ship Orlando, and received intelligence of the motions of our coadjutors at Macao. We joined them at anchor near the Grand Lemma on the following clay, and found along with the Lyra, the Discovery, and Investigator, two surveying ships belonging to the Company, having on board Sir G. Staunton, and some other gentlemen * belonging to the factory, whose knowledge of the Chinese language rendered them necessary as interpreters.

The apparent reason of choosing this rendezvous, was to be free from the impertinence of the Canton official people,

who might naturally be expected to thwart the measures, and throw every possible impediment in the way of the embassy. Circumstances occasioning the delay of a day or two, the ships passed on to an anchorage among the Hong Kong islands ; where the Anjeri water, not being deemed good, was changed for that which fell from the rocks, and was certainly uncontaminated by any vegetable matter, for few places present a more barren aspect than these islands. They are also called the Ladrones, from being the haunts of pirates ; and for such a purpose their situation is extremely well adapted. Here a message arrived, stating the emperor's pleasure that the embassy should be received as in the former instance ; and that the necessary orders had been sent to the ports of the Eastern and Yellow Seas for that purpose.

On the 13th July the squadron (four ships and the brig) sailed ; and, coasting along the provinces of Quang-tung and Fokien, passed through the Straits of Formosa, and entered the Tung Hai, or Eastern Sea.

The breeze altered its direction occasionally, but was always favourable ; and, passing out of sight of the Chusan islands, we saw the land to the eastward, which we at that time conceived to be the south-west point of Corea. On the 24th we made Staunton's island, and Capes Gower and Macartney, on the south-east part of the Shan-tung promontory; and, the next day, rounding close the north-east point, we stood towards the Gulph of Pe-tche-lee. The country here had an extremely rugged and sterile look. On the 26th we passed through the Mee-a-tau islands, and steered to the mouth of the White (or North) River *, despatching the Lyra a-head, to announce the approach of the squadron.

An address was now publicly read by Lord Amherst, to all the individuals who were to be attendants on the embassy, touching the great necessity of maintaining

* It is doubtful whether Pei means white or north ; most probably the latter; as Pei or Pe-kin signifies Northern Court.

the strictest regularity and propriety of conduct in their intercourse with the Chinese, so as to avoid every cause of offence or disagreement; and laying down general regulations for their conduct in all respects.

During our passage up the Yellow Sea the weather was remarkably serene and fine, and we experienced none of the fogs which usually hang over the shallower parts of the ocean.

We anchored, on the 28th, not many miles distant from the mouth of the river ; but the land is here so very low, that the mast-heads of the junks in the river, and the tops of the houses only of the village of Ta-coo, were visible from the ship. It would appear that the ships had entirely outstripped the expectations of the Chinese ; for they had no idea of seeing them so soon, or that they should not have heard of them in their passage up. Such rapidity of movement never entered into their conceptions ; for they, in fact, had scarcely heard of them at one end of their empire, when they found them at the other.

The viceroy of this province (Pe-tche-lee) had been for some offence dismissed from his office; and his successor, having not yet left Pekin, it was not until the 4th Aug. that two duly-authorized mandarins of rank (Chang and Yin) came on board to pay their respects to the Embassador, and to give the necessary directions for the disembarkation of the presents. To those who had seen, for the first time, the Chinese costume, these mandarins had a very strange appearance. — On a back view, their short jacket, or gown, with their crape petticoats, gave them the look of bulky old women ; but, in confronting them, their clumsy boots and " beards forbade the interpretation/' Here also we observed their clerks, or men of letters, distinguished by twoenormous claws on theirleft hand, which render that limb in a great degree useless to them. The fishermen in this vicinity, (almost within a hundred miles of the capital,) were literally naked, — even without a fig-leaf. This sort of indecency we were little prepared to meet, amongst a people who affect to be so outrageously decorous as to discourage the art of sculpture, because it displays too distinctly the shape and lineaments of the human body.

Chang was a civil, Yin a military, mandarin ; and they had, as usual, the title of Ta-zhin (or great man) added to their names. They were saluted on approaching the ship with seven guns each, and received with a guard. Every body was in full dress ; and it could not be said of this, as of the last embassy, that there was any want of splendour in this respect. After a conference, in some degree ceremonious, and partly for arranging future proceedings, they partook of a banquet in the captain's cabin, and then returned to the shore. Quang, the Chin-chae, imperial commissioner, or legate, (as he has been variously termed,) holding a superior rank to either of the others *, being ready to

* The person holding such an office as this, under the great seal, obtains a kind of temporary rank, entitling him, for the time, to take precedence even of the vicereceive the Embassador on shore, his lordship and the gentlemen of the embassy took their leave of us for awhile, landing in great state on the 9th of August ; the squadron being dressed in colours, the standard flying, the yards manned, and a salute of nineteen guns fired from each ship. They proceeded into the river attended by a number of Chinese junks, and by our boats in regular order. During the time we remained at this place, presents of bullocks, vegetables, rice, tea, garlic, and other refreshments were, according to usage, sent off to the ships, but by no means in great abundance. Several of the bullocks were brought alongside dead, having been drowned in the bottom of the boats, or died otherwise in their passage off. This, however, was not meant as disrespect or incivility, for they make no distinction themselves between an animal that is killed by roy of a province, although he may have an inferior button or ball on his cap, and be a mandarin of lower order in the state.

the butcher, and one which dies naturally ; and in this way they eat dogs, cats, rats, and, in fact, all manner of carrion and vermin.

In this respect, therefore, they made no strangers of us, for they gave us their own family fare.

Chap. II

The ships visit Chinese Tartar/), the Provinces of Pe-tche-lee and Shantung, and examine the Coast of Corea.

IT was now determined, by the senior officer, that the Lyra, attended by the Investigator, should take a southerly direction in the Gulf, whilst the Alceste and Discovery were to proceed to the north, a certain rendezvous being pointed out for our meeting again, to which the General Hewitt was also directed.

On the 11th we weighed, and stood to the north-eastward ; the Discovery in company : the Lyra and Investigator to the southward. On the 13th saw the Sha-loopoo-tien Islands, extending from northwest by north to west by south, distant about five leagues. We coasted along the western shore of the Gulf of Lea-tun g, hitherto unexplored by any European ship; and found the land, as we advanced, became more and more mountainous. About noon, on the 14th, in latitude 39° 29' N. longitude 120° & E., the great wall of China opened to the view, bearing north-west by west, its nearest and lowest point being then distant about six or seven leagues ; but we approached it closer in the afternoon.

Rising from the sea, this immense barrier passed over the first or lowest hill, and, mounting the second, was seen stretching to the right, in our point of view, obliquely towards its summit ; then on the third and still higher land, it inclined to the left, making an angle with the last range ; and, ultimately ascending the highest and most distant mountain, it was there lost. It extends for about fifteen hundred miles, and is carried equally over mountains and rivers. — " It is said not to be more than five-and -twenty feet high, flanked with towers at short distances, but of sufficient breadth for several horsemen to travel easily abreast. Report says, that one-third of the men in China, capable of labour, were employed in its construction, and that it was finished in the space of five years/' The opportunity of surveying this extraordinary structure, which, for more than twenty ages, has been deemed one of the greatest wonders of the world, afforded, more especially in this unexpected way, from the deck of a British man-of-war, the most pleasing sensations. Whether it is considered, as it is by some, a mighty effort of human industry, or, as by others, a monument of laborious folly, still it is an amazing object, not only from its immense extent, but on account of its great antiquity ; and, from being so seldom visible to an European eye, to have beheld it, even at this distance, was a high gratification of curiosity. Beyond the wall is a remarkable head-land, very much resembling Cape Sicie, a notorious place, near Toulon. The wind heading us here, we stood across, about sun-set, toward the