Belgium: in a picturesque tour

Front matter

Qass Book

BELGIUM:

IN A PICTURESQUE TOUR.

Chapter I

Steam — Boats and Rails — Advantages of, to Belgium and Great Britain — Noble and Happy Results — Old Father Thames — Scenery and Sail — Pretty Effects — Sensations at Sea — Passengers — Resources to kill Time — Conversation a great Art — Topics general and particular — Safe Conversational Rules — Incidents and Examples — Ravages of sea nausea — Discussions on Art — Ostend — Modern and Ancient Traits — Sea Bathing — Pavilion Aunts and Dowagers — English and Belgian — A good Bargain — Source of delicious Reflections — Departure for Bruges . . . . • . 1

Chapter II

Half an hour's ride of Four Leagues — Ostend to Bruges — Railroad — Excellent Regulations — Appearance of the Country — "West Flanders, high state of Cultivation — Neatness and Industry of the People — Bruges — Its Ancient Splendor and Celebrity — Flemings of the Middle Ages — Enthusiasm of our Friend — Historical Sketch— The Sister Arts — Church of Notre Dame — Objects of Art — Rich Ornaments —Carved Pulpit — Statue by Michael Angelo — Paintings by Old Flemish Masters, &c. . . . . .14

Chapter III

Antique and Modern Bruges — Historians — One-sided Views — Celebrated Men — Traditions — Progress in the Arts — Insurance Companies — Extent of Commerce — Public Edifices— The Town Hall — Institutions peculiar to Belgium — English Writers — Enthusiasm Contagious — Hospital of St. John — View from the Ramparts— Objects of Curiosity — Private Collections, &c. 39

Chapter IV

The Royal Academy — Pictures of Memling — Other Works of Art — Engravings and Prints — Eminent Engravers — Spirit of Trade and Commerce — Old Palace of Justice — Paintings — Conversations — Opinions of an Amateur—National Traits — La Fontaine — Specimens and Examples — Early Flemish Discoveries — First Landscape - Vander Meulcn — Battle-pieces . 59 vi

CONTENTS.

Chapter V

Route from Bruges to Ghent — Incidents by the Way — Literary Horrors — National Manners — Practical Jests — A Mad Professor — Odd Style of Improvising — Menapian Hams — Roman Gourmands — Pickled Curls and Herrings — Flemish Economists and Dutch — Approach to Ghent — Public Works— The Grand Canal, &c. . . . . . .74

Chapter VI

Ghent — Civil Government and Institutions — Churches — St. Bevon — Great Bell of the Tower — Chimes — Carillons — Beautiful Epitaph — Series of Chapels— Works of Art — The Brothers Van Eyck — The Sister — Rubens and his Master — Specimens of Sculpture — Collection of Paintings — Aspect of Town Halls — Grand Exhibitions — Cbateau des Comtes — Fish Market . 87

Chapter VII

Historical Associations and Traditions — The Arteveldes — Biographical Traits — Odd Mode of Expiating Crime — Daring Spirit of the Gantois — The Brugeois — Era of Charles V. — His Praise of the Belgians — Abdication — Monarchs of Mind — Rubens — Vandyke — and their Predecessors — Paintings and Drawings — Useful Institutions — Schools — Lectures, &c. . . 109

Chapter VIII

Ghent to Malines or Mechlin — Former State — Its High Privileges and Importance — Men of Science — Other Celebrated Characters — Literature and the Arts — The Old Minstrels — Merchant Princes and Rulers : — Specimens of Early Poetry — Marguerite of Austria — Traits and Traditions — Work of M. Santander — Song of Roland — The Cathedral — Description — Paintings 128

Chapter IX

Antwerp — Historical Sketch — Naval and Commercial Fame — Sufferings under Philip II. and the Duke of Alva — Memorable Defence — Its City Capitulation—Treaties, &c. — View of Trade and Commerce — National Customs — Interior of St. Paul's Church — Paintings and other Objects of Art — The Town Hall— The Citadel— House of Rubens, &c. . . . .151

Chapter X

Advantages of Church-hours in Belgium — Cathedral of Notre Dame — Western Entrance — Opinions of Sir J. Reynolds — Anecdotes and Traits — Lofty and Courteous Character of Rubens — The High Altar— Paintings — Favorite of Sir J. Reynolds — Pictorial Policy of Napoleon — Principal West Front — Works by various Artists — An Extraordinary Genius — Number of Institu-

CONTENTS.

vii

Chapter XI

Route from Antwerp to Brussels — Associations of a Road — Interesting Reminiscences — Adventures of a Painter Lover— Precautions of his Master — New Character of the Scenery — Phenomena of a Splendid Sunset — Situation and Advantages of Brussels — Use of a Friend at Court — The Park and the Boulevards — Memorials of Battle — A Circuit View of the City — Interior — Place d'Anvers — Portes de Namur and de Halle — Hotel de Ville — Palace of Justice ......... 196

Chapter XII

Origin and Historical Associations — St. Gudule — Charlemagne — Flemish Knights — Modern History — Philip II. — Crusade — Association of Des Gueux— Regency of Princess Margaret — Historical Sketch — Napoleon — St. Gudule — Architecture — Notre Dame — Museum— Public Edifices, &c. . 221

Chapter XIII

Residence at Brussels — True and False Fame — The Ducal Library — Public Spirit of Napoleon — Albums — Black and Crimson Damask — Annals of Love — Dances a, la Mode — Palaces — Chambers — Traits — Parties — Princess „ of Orange — Ball Room, &c. — Curiosities ..... 237

Chapter XIV

The second Pharsalia — Scenery of the South — Dinant and its Vicinity — Historical Facts — Ruins of Bouvignes and Franchimont — Adventures and Escapes — Romantic Passion — Traditions of Li6ge — Superstitious Hours — Eccentric Characters — Scenery round the Ardennes — Environs of Liege — Optical Effects . . . . . . .260

Chapter XV

Return to Liege — Church of St. James — Interior — Description of the City — Its Antique Fame and Institutions — Warrior Churchmen — Historic Traits — Retributive Act — Louvain — Town Hall — Return by Antwerp— Festival in Honor of Rubens . . . . . . . 279

LIST OF ENGRAVINGS.

1. Chapel of St. Gudule, Brussels (Frontispiece).

2. Tower of La Halle, with Linen-Market (Vignette).*

3. Palace of Justice, with finely-carved Chimney, Bruges 65

4. Grand Canal, with antique Hall and Houses, Ghent . 85

5. Church of St. Bevon (Interior) Ghent .... 89

6. St, Bevon ; the Beffroi, and Church of St. Nicholas

seen by Moonlight, Ghent 101

7. Town-Hall ; with an Insurrection of the People

against Charles V. Ghent 105

8. Cathedral and Market-Place, Mechlin . . . 145 0. Church of St. Paul (Interior) Antwerp . . . 163

10. West Front of Cathedral of Notre Dame, Ditto . 179

11. The Chambers of Representatives, with View of the

Park, Brussels . 209

12. Church of St. Giidule (Interior) with the celebrated

carved Pulpit 229

13. Town of Dinant upon the Meuse .... 261

14. The Tower of Creve-Cceur on the Meuse . . . 204

15. Church of St. James (Interior) Liege .... 278

16. Town-Hall, with Part of the Cathedral, Louvain . 286

* Page 50, line 7, for " here represented," read " as represented in the Vignette.""

A PICTURESQUE TOUR,

ETC.

Chapter I

Steam — Boats and Rails — Advantages of, to Belgium and Great Britain — Noble and happy results — Old Father Thames — Scenery and sail — Pretty effects — Sensations at sea — Passengers — Resources to kill time — Conversation a great art — Topics general and particular — Safe Conversational Rules — Incidents and Examples — Ravages of sea nausea — Discussions on Art — Ostend— Modern and Ancient Traits — Sea Bathing — Pavilion Aunts and Dowagers — English and Belgian — A good Bargain — Source of delicious Reflections — Departure for Bruges.

Steam boats and iron railways, those grand incentives to modern travel, are peculiarly so in regard to Belgium — our favorite British highway for the continent. It is no longer, in the words of the facetious author of Hudibras,

cc What perils do environ The man who meddles with cold iron V B

MODERN AGES.

which the more you now choose to meddle with, the sooner you are enabled to bid good bye to your enemies and arrive at your new place of destination. But what poet could have dreamed of an age of iron (the true golden age too) so glorious as ours, spreading its wings of steam far over sea and land ; and in a few hours bringing countries the most remote within our familiar view ? To cross the ocean, to traverse the Low countries, to be far on your route up the Rhine or the Danube, is not as formerly the work of days and weeks; and it is pleasant to reflect that you can dine with a friend at Brussels, and arrive in time to breakfast and transact your business next day in London. " The Earl of Liverpool, Captain Lomax, Ostend !" a fine May morning, and old Father Thames looking at once serene and animated, like a good man of business, at his desk, — for he never appeared to us more occupied, — are almost in themselves a temptation to take a trip. Assuredly he never saw so sprightly a race before ; whether " on earnest business bent," or " plying the paths of pleasure," for there is something in the rapidity of transit, which of itself excites a desire of locomotion, even in the most tranquil and home-loving breasts.

After a scene of good humored bustle, unequalled, perhaps, in any part of the world, you begin to breathe the pure air of the glorious sea ; you seem to shake off the dust of a whole age, and of a whole metropolis. Even the fancy, like the

HOW WE ARE GETTING ON ! 3

eyes, seems to be more awake ; the ever varying scenes, new ideas of trade and commerce, of rapidity of communication, already producing a sort of freemasonry of thought and language, fraternizing the most inveterate enemies, and preparing our children for a higher citizenship of the world, glance like pleasant sunbeams across the mind. If it augur well for the peace and prosperity of nations, our steam- winged commerce is of no less advantage in the dispatch of business and sordid cares of every kind within half the old time ; — new sources of information, and consequently of more refined pleasures, are opened up ; while ignorance, that fruitful cause of strife and discord, which clung like the poisoned tunic of Hercules to every people and turned their strength to madness, is fast disappearing before the light of a better day.

Ingenious and enterprising Belgium, with the dispatch of science, has happily superseded the dispatches of war ; utilitarian doctrines have usurped the place of national animosities ; the goddess of Reason, falsely so called, has everywhere abdicated her throne to her legitimate sister Temperance, who alone issues her war manifestoes against " Comus and his midnight crew," with increased energy, and with marshalled hosts of teatotalers, who threaten to establish new customs, and cut off the old excise.

Our Thames scenery — a perfect study for the b 2

OLD RIVER SCENERY.

artist — alwa} 7 s presents something picturesque in the diversified forms and colors of its passing sail ; " its margins green/' its gentle undulations and eminences, old national edifices, marts of commerce, pleasantly interspersed with villas or monumental relics, calculated to awaken observation in the most indifferent mind. All these seen in clear sunny weather, under a thousand varying lights and shades, form a pleasing contrast with the forest of shipping, white sails in the distance, the rapid dash of steamers, the rolling and dipping of the lordly yachts, the stern visage of the man of war, the painted Indiaman, the frigate, the busy brig, and more numerous merchantmen, with every stitch of sail on, bound for the land of cargoes, as if the demon of avarice himself had launched them with resistless hand upon the mighty deep. A still greater variety of small craft, clown to the black colliers, flats, wherries, and boats without number, will give you the complete picture of a commercial river, such as is nowhere else to be seen.

It is a delightful sensation when you first gain the open sea — the quickening breeze, the expanding waters, the far grand view, with the play of the sun light, and the reflection of the skies on the billowy tracts— all tend to produce a degree of exhilaration which is seldom or never experienced when upon land.

But this is not so with all : I was a happy exception to the general rule, and the nearer we

HOW TO AVOID ENNUI TO OSTEND !

•5 approached our destination, the more inspiring was the sea air, till it soon made me cast many a wishfid glance at our preparations a la fourchette. The passengers were that day few, and for the most part ladies. There were two Frenchmen, three Belgians, and four English ; yet, few as we were, within five hours after putting on steam, at 11 a. m., it was serious to observe the gaps which began to appear in our little circle. Ladies and children usually undergo the severest ordeal — it was the bathing season at Ostend — and the passage is often an excellent seasoning indeed for those who can bear it, and quite sufficient to remember till their return. We sat down, however, a fair and goodly company, at 3 p. m. to an excellent repast, and tried to banish all uneasy feelings by discussing the subjects before us, in a good humored vein, mixed with all the pretty persiflage and scandal of English borough towns — little court anecdotes of Paris and Brussels, a few national jests and sallies, which it is fortunate, perhaps, there were no ladies from Holland to criticise, — in particular when we touched upon the attractions of the Belgian queen, her benevolence, her presents to public institutions, the frank unaffected conduct and the tact* of her royal consort. We wish we could say as much for that of all the ladies on this occasion ; but the utterance of a single innocent

* " II a du tact, le Roi/' is a favorite expression with most Belgians of the loyal caste.

6 NEW CONVERSATIONAL DOCTRINE.

bitise is frequently sufficient to destroy the pleasure of an entire company. In mixed parties, indeed, it is invariably most wise and appropriate to confine our remarks to small-talk, as it has been aptly termed ; or to treat of matters generally interesting — science, arts, and arms, of heroes and princes in the true epic style, and of personages out of the probable sphere of those present. We should then run no risk either of inflicting or of suffering the slightest annoyance in the course of conversation.

Good sense and correct feeling — qualities unfortunately more rare than popular, naturally dictate the observance of such social rules ; the more important as ladies may venture upon a certain latitude of expression, not tolerated in the rougher sex, without fear of its being followed by very fatal results.

From the topic of courts and fashions, the open and generous conduct of king Leopold, the peaceful national labors of Louis Philip, we had approached the hero of a hundred fights — the arbiter of Europe, the conqueror of Waterloo^ we had even elevated our ideas to the standard of Belgian independence, in the description of which a young advocate, the son of general M., took a lively part. He had been one of the foremost in the movement; and it was precisely his character that one of the ladies, committing une grande betise, fixed upon to criticise in one or two rather uncomplimentary terms, wholly unconscious of the presence of that general's

KNIGHTS OF DISORDER ; INVISIBLE LADIES, ETC. 7

son. At the first mention of the name, I observed that some one rose and went upon deck ; a French gentleman who happened to be near me stated to me the circumstances, and I had scarcely sat two minutes, when the same party resumed their observations in a spirit which rendered it incumbent upon the writer either to follow the example of the young Belgian, or to recommend to the notice of the fair that conversational doctrine of so much value in mixed parties. He did rather more; he took on himself, against a powerful diversion of voices, to support the reputation of the general and his party, without much detriment to his own position and line of defence.

Though not so unsoldierlike as to wish for an ally in a rougher sea, nor, he hopes, so ungallant, it nevertheless came to his aid, silenced the enemy's best guns, and picked them off, in the military phrase, one by one. Our seats becoming " few and far between," we kept continually closing ranks like a regiment under a sharp fire ; — it had been a fine May morning, but it was a very November afternoon, and we were soon made sensible that we had got into the open sea. Not a lady was to be seen, and the gentlemen whom the young advocate now humorously designated as our " Knights Hospitalliers," betook themselves each to his own little hospital (his berth), or were dimly seen through the twilight hanging (no inappropriate term) in agony over the vessel's side. The young count and

8 A PLEASANT COMPANION ; GREEK BADENAGE.

myself still stood our ground ; and the captain as he passed us, once observed, " Were I an admiral, sir, I would make you post captain, if you do not soon take your turn." " It will be sure to come," cried the count, at the same time exclaiming in the mock heroic of the old blind bard ; — Ov yap sywye, &C. — thus popularly paraphrased by some Irish subaltern of the great Mr. Pope, in words more plain than classic or refined : —

" Strong though he be, and like a Trojan sup, The roaring main will bring his dinner up."

" No, no !" I exclaimed, " I defy you to place me upon the sick list ; not that I triumph in beholding so many fallen around me, while the same elements that thus afflict weaker natures disturb not the equilibrium of the favored few." But how long we might retain that equilibrium and our advanced positions upon deck, was a question yet to be solved by time.

Philosophy, however, never more divine than in a small circle of sound heads at sea, with wit and generous wine to celebrate each other's prowess ; with a strain of poetry (I was quoting for the young Belgian, Dryden's famous lines to Sir Godfrey Kneller), a dash of literature, and the arts came pleasingly to our relief. In all these, the young Belgian showed himself a critic of no common

CRITICISM ON ART A BELGIAN AMATEUR. 9

order, occasionally improvising for us with considerable dexterity, till we became so happy in each other's society, that we agreed to pursue our route together along the Meuse, and to the banks of the Rhine.

Though not a professed critic, the count, like our excellent friend M. Passevans, knew a good picture when he saw it ; he was well versed in the distinctive features of the schools, from the old Greek down to the modern Dutch and Esquimaux. He had the art of drawing happy parallels ; he at once seized the resemblances and differences in each ; he compared the Italian and the Flemish, contrasted them with the French, the Dutch, and the English ; and then attempted to show how far their peculiar manners had been maintained during their progress, and by the moderns. He considered the old Flemish as coeval with the best Italian models, " though I regret" he added, " that the great historian Lanzi should not give us credit for an entire national originality."

" Impossible !" I replied, " it was not his object to raise your school into a rivalship with happy Italy."

" Assuredly not," replied the count ; " but what I contend for is that Flemish painting may lay claim to a twin-sisterhood with Italy herself, in the revival of the arts. It is strange that so few foreigners should have done us justice ; yet look at that best criterion of relative excellence — price ; and mark

A DIFFICULT POINT TO SOLVE.

in what estimation our pictures and prints are held." " I fear that you will never convince me," said I, eager to bring the young advocate into play, " that your old Flemish school, excellent as it is, does not owe its best features — all that is most beautiful and noble — to its having been grafted upon the Italian ; not to its native strength and originality. What does Lanzi say ? does he not allude to it as to a child coming to its first school ? the school of Itaty and of the world."

" Certainly not," was the young Belgian's reply, (reddening up a little,) " I mean in the general sense, that in which we should take the whole bearing of the historian's words. They will not countenance so strong an interpretation as you put upon them ; and I will convince you of it upon our arrival at Brussels. There, and before we reach that capital, I will show by different collections, as well public as private, that I have not been making use of idle boasts ; that our old Flemish school is native — not adopted — and partook in the same glorious light which Greece shed upon Italy; that our actual modern school is not incapable of supporting its reputation ; that its works are already sought by the amateurs and collectors of other nations ; that they will not shrink from a comparison with those of any modern people in existence."

No one could listen to the young Belgian ; his strong love of nationality, his enthusiasm for art,

NIGHT VIEW OF OSTEND.

his reverence for the beautiful and the great, without a sentiment of respect. As he paused, he directed my attention to the ramparts and spires of Ostend, seen through the clear moonlight as we entered the breakwater. The vast dyke, the old canal of Bruges, the pavilion of the baths, rose from amidst the ruins of the once thronged and bustling port, now silent and melancholy as a desert. Its commerce like the hostile troops which beleaguered its walls had disappeared ; the foot of the stranger had succeeded the fiery track of war; on its esplanade or in its streets nothing more formidable is now to be seen than maiden aunts or cousins ; bevies of nursing maids with their little charges ; staid dames and dowagers arrayed in their native stuffs or silks, engaged in making bargains with the bathing women for dipping their young people, so many by the dozen ; putting in the children at half price, and ensuring a succession of dips for themselves and their friends, during the entire season ; and when fourteen for the dozen is obtained, it will usually furnish a topic of congratulation and triumph for the rest of the evening.

The sea-beaten aspect of Ostend, the facade of the pavilion, the Place d'Armes, themonumental ruins, the wide spreading sea from the encircling ramparts at once picturesque and wild, even the reading rooms and hotels, theatre and estaminets, are all insufficient to rescue it from a monotony and dulness which make the stranger anxious to

12 HISTORICAL ASSOCIATIONS AND TRAITS.

proceed ; for it is only four leagues from Bruges, and twenty-two from Brussels. Not a few historical associations attach to the city which has rather an antique and old-fashioned appearance — the ecluses were erected as early as 1660, and the port may be considered a handsome monument of the emperor Joseph II.

The coast of Ostend presents one continued line ; the approach is difficult, and vessels pass the two jetties by so narrow an opening that they can only enter at flood tide, and the attempt is dangerous with a strong contrary wind.

For a considerable period Ostend, now chiefly celebrated for its fine oysters, was a place of considerable importance. In 1583 it was strongly fortified by the prince of Orange ; it sustained a long siege by the archduke Albert upwards of three years, in which the Infanta Isabella of Spain, was made to appear arrayed, though a mere child, in a rich cuirass, to astound her enemies. In 1604 the town was captured by the Spanish general Spinola, though not till it had been reduced to extremity, and lost upwards of 30,000 by sword and famine. As a proof of deadly execution, it is mentioned that the enemy fired no less than 150,000 coups de canon — a singular calculation, which shows they must have made rather a strong impression.

It is also curious that one of the first trading companies to India, should have been established as early as the reign of Charles VI. at Ostend, but

ROSE D'ANGLETERRE ; BRUGES.

the extreme jealousy of the Dutch and English prevailed with the court of Vienna ; its charter was revoked in 1731, and the next year, we are told, that upwards of 2,800 persons among the most enterprising and industrious citizens left their native city, then rich and flourishing, for some freer ports.

We reached Ostend, with the tide, at half past two in the morning, after a fifteen hours' sail, quite long enough to weary out the most robust or philosophical temperament. Having committed our luggage to the douaniers,— that pestiferous class ail over the world, I declined the services of 31. Le Commissionaire, lacquied by a host of porters, and proceeded in a voiture with my Belgian escort to the Rose d' Angleterre ; — a very attractive name just now for loyal English passengers ; and in point of neatness and attention, and an excellent breakfast, we found it worthy of its pretty name and its reputation. Instead of retiring to repose, like other passengers, in a state of perfect exhaustion, we made excellent use of our fourchettes ; sent for our luggage from the custom-house, and a little after six were seated in one of those spacious and richly furnished carriages, resembling a soft and elegant boudoir, compared with the old clumsy diligences, — and proceeding, about twenty-five miles an hour, upon our road to Bruges.

Chapter II

Half an hour's ride — Ostend to Bruges — Railroad — Excellent regulations — Appearance of the country — West Flanders, high state of cultivation — Neatness and industry of the people — Bruges — Its ancient splendor and celebrity — Flemings of the Middle Ages — Enthusiasm of our friend — Historical sketch — The sister arts — Church of Notre Dame — Objects of art — Rich ornaments — Carved pulpit — Statue by Michael Angelo — Paintings by old Flemish Masters, &c

The old canal and its passage boats may now almost be said to form part of the antiquities of Bruges. A new era of steam has given the Belgian movement increased energy and activity ; the regulations of the roads, in the hands of the government, are excellent. At once simple and comprehensive, no confusion occurs, accidents are exceedingly rare, the charge of conveyance is low, less than half that in England, and if not quite so rapid, the transit is for most purposes sufficiently expeditious. We had just half an hour's ride of it to Bruges.

PLEASANT CHANGE OF SCENE.

The aspect of the country through which the railway passes, like that of West Flanders in general, along the line of coasts, is perfectly flat, and comparatively wild and sterile. We passed considerable tracts of pasture, which, impregnated with the atmosphere and salt of the sea, are peculiarly fitted for grazing, increasing the excellence and flavour of every kind of animal food. I observed also numbers of young horses, and farther on our way sheep and herds of kine, the latter of which, however, were small, and the former not to be placed in comparison, as regards size or condition, with the same kind in England.

The process of draining did not appear to have been applied, as it might have been, with advantage to the pasture soils ; but this may also be remarked of the best cultivated districts in Scotland, and even of grazing lands in Great Britain. It is these and the wild tracts of peat or moss on the southern borders and round Verviers, which form the only drawback upon the highly rich and cultivated appearance of the Belgian soil ; and this want of cultivation is more apparent than real ; undoubtedly they are best adapted to the purposes to which they are applied, and could not without an immense outlay be brought under the same system of artificial cultivation, which renders Flanders, in itself a country of wild and sterile sands, one perfect garden — a comparative paradise of blooms and fruit, the more prized and valuable for its not

16 PROGRESS THROUGH WEST FLANDERS.

being like Italy — mere spontaneous wealth and abundance, to tempt the avarice, and become the spoil of the stranger.

As we proceeded, however, my young friend pointed out to me the gradual changes which began to be seen in the numerous farm houses and country seats, and some ancient castellated residences, which marked our approach to Bruges. Among others which we saw were those of his friend the governor, and the statesman Mulinaere, of M. Potter, and of several members of the Senate, or the Hall of Representatives, more or less distinguished for their active patriotic characters. The appearance of rural prosperity, the result of assiduous neatness, and a kind of incessant study and attention, which embowers the garden in perennial bloom and beauty, and gives to each little cottage-ground and farm fresh plenty and abundance, became on all sides more manifest ; there was an increasing population, greater cheerfulness, a more Flemish costume and national manners ; and I noticed that they began also to resemble the Germans in their extreme fondness for music. We saw several rustic parties escorting some itinerant musicians, and singing the French vaudevilles, or the favorite songs of their modern poets, with productions also of native talent, which my intelligent companion informed me contained some sly hits at the priests, as well as the Dutch, and without sparing even the policy of the allies.