Travels in Egypt and Syria

Preface

The title of this book may not be attractive to every reader of Travels, for the countries visited have in these days been brought within such easy reach, that they have lost the charm of strangeness. Then interest, however, they can never lose, and their history must always form the most wonderful chapter in the records of the world.

Not the least wonderful fact in that history, is one which confronts the traveller at every point. It is a constant source of sadness and surprise to him, that scenes hallowed by the Saviour's footsteps should now be possessed by the followers of the false Prophet. By the Christian traveller, and the Mahometan inhabitant, Jerusalem, Bethlehem, and Nazareth, must therefore be viewed with very different feelings. But charity and not contempt should be predominant in the minds of both> and especially should it be displayed by the disciples of Him whose life and death enforced this highest of all virtues.

The Mussulman adheres to the teaching of the Koran with a fidelity which commands respect ; and those who are brought in contact with him, either personally or vi

PREFACE, through the medium of books, cannot fail to see much in his character to esteem, and even to admire.

One thing is very easy for the writer to promise, and that is, that nothing will be found in this volume which does not proceed from his own reflections, uninfluenced by anything that has engaged the attention of others ; and the title-page will have informed the reader that the impressions received during these travels have been made upon one who has visited many parts of the earth, and is fully sensible of the happy condition we enjoy in Europe, and especially in our own isle, compared with that which is the lot of people spread over so wide a portion of the globe as the Mussulmans,

Chapter I. Arrival At Alexandria

The Port — The Plague — The moving Scene on Shore — The European Quarter . .

Chapter II. The Town Of Alexandria

Tour on Donkeys — Desolate Scenes — The Monument called Pompey's Pillar — The Dogs — The Monuments called Cleopatra's Needles — The poorer Class among the Ruins of the ancient Town — The Catacombs — The Forts . .

Chapter III. Cairo

Population — Kindness of the Consul — Character of the Egyptians — Effects of the Government — The Streets — The Houses — A Coffee-house — The Arabian Nights' Entertainments — The Shops — The Tradesmen — Ladies in the Streets . , . .

CHAPTER IV. Cairo — continued

A Dinner at the Hotel — Strange Company — Christian Quarter — Copts — The Gardens within the Walls of Cairo — Search for Lodgings among the Copts — Pleasant Accident ....

Vlll

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER V. cairo — continued.

PAGE

Horses — Dragoman — Size — Janizary — Manner of Riding — Visit to Shubra — Ceremony of admitting the Waters of the Nile to Cairo — The Fertilising Qualities of the Deposit left by the Nile Water — Citadel of Cairo — Ali Pasha's Tomb — View from the Citadel — Beasts of Burden . . . . . .32

Chapter VI. Cairo

Noisy Neighbours — The Flies — Mosquitoes — Sparrows — Difficulty of passing a Mussulman Lady in a narrow Way — Purchase of Tchebooks — The Tobacco of Egypt — The Ladies' Dresses — Difficulty of making Purchases — Walking in the Streets alone — The Arrangements for the Dogs — Quarrels in the Streets . .45

CHAPTER VII, cairo — continued.

A Lady from Tunis on her Pilgrimage to Mecca — Sad Condition of the Mussulman Women — The British Consul's Encampment in the Desert — Heliopolis — Isle of Rhoda — The Nileometer — Ladies Riding ........ 58

Chapter VIII

cairo — continued.

Medical Institution — Military Hospital — The ancient Fortress of Babylon — Coptic Churches — Great Poverty — Pleasantries — Printing Establishment — Taxes upon Dragomans and Cooks . 65

Chapter IX. The Pyramids Of El-ghizeh

Pass the River with Donkeys — The Coimtry — The Approach to the Pyramids — The Dimensions of the Grandest — Ascent — A Traveller's Impressions — Chamber in the Interior — Bats . . 73

CONTENTS.

ix

CHAPTER X. Cairo — continued

PAGE

My Dragoman's Distress — Causes — 111 Conduct of a Bey and the Pasha — The Rite of Circumcision — Procession of a Young Lady before Marriage — Also the Gentleman — An ordinary Funeral . 79

CHAPTER XI. Cairo — continued

• Establishment for Insane Persons — The Difficulty of entering a Court of Justice in Cairo — Authorised Feast of Cats — A Mussulman and his Three Wives . . . . . .80

CHAPTER XII. cair o — continued.

Conversations with a Mussulman — His Defence of the Treatment of the "Women — His Opinion of the Gospel and the Koran — His Impressions concerning the Romanists — His Objection to our Manner of eating Animals in England . . . 90

CHAPTER Xni.

Cairo — continued.

Mahometan Saints — The Ramadan— The Bad Food in Egypt — The

Bread — An English Episcopal School .... 105

CHAPTER XIY.

cairo — continued.

Second Interview with the Mussulman Gentleman and Conversation

upon the Mahometan and Christian Religion . . .113

CHAPTER XV.

cairo — continued.

Measurement of Time — Calls from the Minarets of the Mosques — Papers read before the Members of the Egyptian Society — The Father of History's Reports — Other Papers read — Slaves at the Gates — Information obtained from a Negro . . . 120

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XVI.

Cairo — continued.

PAGE

Petrified Trees in the Desert— Tombs of the Memlook Kings — A Der-

vise Fortune-teller . . . . . . .127

CHAPTER XVII.

Cairo — continued.

A Mosque dedicated to a Relative of Mahomet — Causes of the Unfruitfulness of the Mussulman Women — Visit to the Coptic Church — Number of Copts in Egypt — Their Manner of Worship —The Israelites . . . . . . ,134

CHAPTER XVHL Cairo — continued.

Walk among the Tombs beyond the Walls of Cairo — Alarming Signs — Application for Aid to search around — Mussulman Superstitions — The Thoughts that occurred to me — The Four distinct Sects of Mahometans buried here — Discovery of a Mourner . 139

CHAPTER XIX.

Cairo — continued.

The Franks — Slave Market — Dragoman's Advice to Marry — His Reasons for this Advice— Remarks upon the Slave-trade in the East and the West — Cruelties on the Boys upon the Nile — Abyssinian Girls — Humanity of the Moslems— Cruelty of Greek Women . . . . . . . 150

CHAPTER XX.

THE RIVER NILE.

Preparations for Navigating the River — Plan of the Boats — Comparison between the Nile and the St. Lawrence — Our Departure — A Gay Vessel descending . . > . . . . 162

CHAPTER XXI. the river nile — continued.

The Wind fails us — Moor off Memphis — Land — The Statue of Rameses — The Grottoes or Catacombs of Beni Hassan — A French Medical Man — The Crimes sanctioned in Egypt — A Crocodile . 168

CONTENTS.

xi

CHAPTER XXII. the river nile — continued,

PAGE

The Village Kaon-el-Rebirs — The Inundations prevailing here — Admiration of our Pocket Telescope — Warning of an Arab — Village of Celaouist — Improvements in the Nile Scenery — The Cheerfulness of the Women — Conduct of Soldiers . . 173

CHAPTER XXIII.

the river nile — continued.

Arrive at Siout — Denderah — The remarkable Temple — Knoft — The Governor of the Town — His Behaviour — Young Crocodiles — Depredations of the Species — Moored by the River — A Party of Dancing Girls— The Moonlight . . . . .182

CHAPTER XXIV.

the river nile — continued.

The Ruins at Thebes — The Caverns and Tombs of the Kings — Temple of Hagar Sibrili — Temple of Ombus — The Last Village in Egypt —The Isle of Elephantine— The Cataract— The Isle of Philoe . 189

CHAPTER XXV.

Cairo — continued.

A Dragoman Educated in Europe — A Judge — The Judge's Politeness — An Egyptian Trial — The Judge's Opinion of Napoleon I. — The Independence of our Country — The Appearance of the Prisoner — His Defence — The Judgment — My Departure . . . 198

CHAPTER XXVI.

Cairo — continued.

A Literary Society — The Tchebooks — Coffee — Conversation — Concerning a Present sent to the Pasha — An Egyptian's Opinion of the Europeans . . . . . . . . 212

Xll

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXVII.

MOUNT SINAI AND THE JOURNEY THERE.

PAGE

Our First Night in the Desert — Appearance of a Comet— The Cries of the Jackal — A Party of Pilgrims — The Treatment of the Camels — The Locusts— Encamp near Suez — Examination of the reported Pass of the Jews — Departure for Mount Sinai — Pilgrims — Hieroglyphics inscribed — A remarkable Track of Ants — A Burial Ground — Arrival at the Convent at the Foot of Mount Sinai — Inspection of Tombs — A Maniac — Ascent of Jebel Musa — Ascent of Mount St. Katherine . . . . . . 218

CHAPTER XXVHI.

JOURNEY FROM MOUNT SINAI TOWARDS JERUSALEM.

A Sandy Plain — High Land — Pleasantry of the Arabs — More Vegetation — Birds — Remarkable Ruins — Bedouins with their Flocks and Herds — First settled Inhabitants of the Holy Land — Sheykh of Daccarheer ....... 230

CHAPTER XXIX.

ARRIVAL AT JERUSALEM.

Fruitful Country — First View of the Holy City — Gate of Bethlehem — Encamp in the Gardens of the Lazaretto — Removal to our Consul's Garden ....... 240

CHAPTER XXX.

Jerusalem — continued.

Different kinds of Visitors at Jerusalem— First Visit to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre — Unaffected Devotions of the Pilgrims — Principal Chapels — Examination of some Opinions prevalent . 246

CHAPTER XXXI.

MOUNT OF OLIVES.

The Via Dolorosa — Pool of Bethesda— Reported Tomb of the Virgin —Garden of Gethsemane — View from the Mount — Church of the Ascension — The Brook of Kedron .... 254

CONTENTS.

Xlll

CHAPTER XXXII.

Jerusalem — continued.

PAGM

Ceremonies in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in commemoration

of the Crucifixion of our Saviour . . , . 263

CHAPTER XXXIII.

Jerusalem-— continued.

Valley of Jehoshaphat— King David's Criminal Amour — Sepulchre of Samuel at Ramah — The Mosque — The Minaret — Tombs of the Judges and the Kings-— Lazarus's reported Burial-place . 270

CHAPTER XXXIV.

COMMENCEMENT OF A TOUR, COMPREHENDING HEBRON, THE DEAD SEA, AND RIVER JORDAN.

Error in the Arrangements for our Departure — Arrival at Hebron— The Israelites — Their Hospitality- — Some Opinions of the Author of Christianity . 278

CHAPTER XXXV.

HEBRON.

Tombs of the Patriarchs — The famous Tree — Meeting with our Friends— Their Adventures — Attack upon our Servants — Account of the Hall of Justice — Delays — Arrival of our Fellow-travellers —A new Light thrown upon our Dispute— The Conduct of our Friends the Jews — Our firm Refusal of their Propositions — ■ Offer given us to view the Tombs of the Patriarchs — Result of the Affair 285

CHAPTER XXXVI.

JOURNEY TO THE DEAD SEA.

Rocky Mountains— Marks of Convulsions of Nature — Encamp for the Night — Views from the Hills — Descents towards the Sea— Bathing — Water very cold and buoyant — Road to the Convent of St. Saba— Alarm of the Monks— Our Admission . . . 299 xiv

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXXVII.

CONVENT OF MOUNT SABA AND THE JORDAN.

PAGE

Relics of Monks murdered — Muleteers' Terrors of the Bedouins — Road towards the Jordan— The Remarkable River— Caution of the Arabs — Bathe in the Jordan — The Fountain of Elisha— Adventure of one of the Horses — The Robbery committed by the Bedouins , . . . . . .307

CHAPTER XXXVHI.

Christian Women on the Road — -View of Bethlehem — The Descent to the supposed Place of the Nativity — A Fancy Artist — The Pools of Solomon — Adventure with a Negro — My Companions' Departure . . . ... . ; .sir

CHAPTER XXXIX,

DEPARTURE FROM JERUSALEM.

New Companions— Impressions upon leaving the Holy City — Face of the Country — One of the Muleteers meeting his Young Wife —His Offer to sell Her . . . . . ,330

CHAPTER XL.

Fruitful Country — Nabliis — Manuscripts in possession of the Samaritans — Dissatisfaction after seeing a part of the Manuscripts , 336

CHAPTER XLX

JOURNEY TOWARDS NAZARETH.

A Bedouin Chief— A Troop of Belligerents — Their Intentions- Improvement in the State of the Country , . . 344

CHAPTER XLIL

A Traveller's Impressions here compared with those at Jerusalem and Bethlehem — Reflections concerning our Saviour — The Lady of our Party supposed to be a Boy disguised— Kindness of the Monks— A Visit from the Superior of the Latin Convent— Sea of Galilee — Tiberias — Fishermen . . 349

CONTENTS.

XV

CHAPTER XLIIL

RETURN TO NAZARETH AND JOURNEY TO BEYROUT.

PAGE

Fine Country — Different Route — Mount Tabor — Mount Carmel — The Convent — Supper — The Monks had feared an Attack from the English when before Acre — Arrive at Beyrout ... . 859

CHAPTER XLIV.

JOURNEY TO THE LEBANON MOUNTAINS.

An agreeable Village — The Mountains — -Curiosity of the People — Two

agreeable Christian Maronite Families . , , 866

CHAPTER XLV,

SECOND VISIT TO THE MARONITE FAMILY.

Mirth among the Party — Examination of Lady L.— Attack upon Myself on account of my Celibacy — Remarks upon the Syrian Women — The Horns they wear — Return to our Encampment — - Visit from the Maronite Ladies — Joy of one especially at finding we were Christians . . . . . ,373

CHAPTER XLVL

TRAVELS IN THE LEBANON.

The Emir Beshir's Palace — Turkish Soldiers — A Major's Drawing— The Colonel commanding — Agreeable Conversation — -The Apartments of the Emir ...... 380

CHAPTER XLVTI.

travels in the Lebanon.— ^continued.

A Younger Branch of the Emir's Family— The Lebanon Princess' Curiosity — Comparison between the Two Ladies — The Lebanon Prince's Politeness — A warm Adieu .... 391

CHAPTER XLVTII.

JOURNEY TOWARDS DAMASCUS.

Christian Peasantry — The Anti-Lebanon— A Dreary Country— View

of Damascus ....... 400 xvi

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XLIX.

DAMASCUS.

TAGE

The Christian Quarter — Difficulty about the Lady — The Bazaar— The Grand Mosque — Caravans between Damascus and Bagdad — Ladies in the Bazaar — Manner of Mussulmans passing the Time . 405

CHAPTER L.

d am asc us — continued.

The Gardens— House of the Bagdad Merchant — Christian Ladies —

The Interior— Conversation with the Ladies— The Monks . 413

CHAPTER LI.

BALBEC.

Village of Seedge— A Polite Sheykh — View of Balbec from the Anti- Lebanon— A grand Temple — The Ruins by Moonlight — Visit to the Emir of the District — -A Maronite Bishop . . . 424

CHAPTER LIL

THE LEBANON MOUNTAINS.

The Snow — The View from the Summit — First View of famous Grove

of Cedars— Encamp among the Cedars— Monks . . , 433

CHAPTER LIII.

DESCENT FROM THE MOUNTAINS.

Difficult Travelling— A Convent — Village of Eden — Invitation from the Governor of the District — The Palace — Visit from the Governor — Some Tricks of Boys — The Governor's Hospitality . 440

CHAPTER LIV

JOURNEY TO BEYROUT,

The Condition of the Country — Tripoli — Remains of an Ancient

Town— Armed Parties — Views — Conclusion . . , 450

TRAVELS

IN

EGYPT AND SYRIA.