Travels on the Shores of the Baltic; extended to Moscow

Preface

. In offering this volume for the perusal of the general reader, it may be proper to say a few words concerning the circumstances under which it appears, and, at the same time to offer something in the nature of an apology for its publication after the appearance of so many books of much greater importance upon the several countries in which these travels were made. The whole of this matter, originally formed the earlier portion of a narrative, of which many subsequent chapters have been already published. This somewhat novel arrangement, has proceeded from the circumstances of the time. When those chapters were preparing for publication, little interest would have attached to a mere tour in the countries of the Baltic, and a short visit to the Russian capital cities ; but it was believed, that it would be otherwise with the narrative of a journey through the more distant and less known countries of b VI

PREFACE.

. Northern Asia. Such, however, has been the turn of events, that, valuable as the books are that are already in circulation upou the countries through which this tour was made, it is now thought there is still place for another account of the towns and coasts that our ships are blockading, and for another glance at the capital cities of our enemies, taken while they were yet our friends, provided the particular phase in which they are seen, be not precisely that which has been shown of them by others. The time at which these travels were performed, if that were a matter of importance to a narrative of this character, is at least more recent than the date of the majority of those that have appeared. To convey anything more than the impressions of a summer tourist, concerning persons and things as they passed before his eyes, open only upon what amused him by its novelty, or excited his interest, as character istic of the customs and manners, and mode of thinking, of the people among whom he was travelling, this volume has no pretensions.

After having of necessity mentioned the connection between these chapters and others recently published, it may be allowable to make a few remarks, suggested by the reception given to those already before the public. During the preparation of the subsequent portion of

PREFACE.

. the narrative, w-hich embraced travels in the Russian Empire alone, an impression was certainly general among us, that the policy of the court of Russia was entitled to the respect of the most reasonable men throughout Europe, and that the system of government in that country was adapted, whether the best that could exist or not, ultimately to civilise the unen lightened and motley hordes which people the vast empire. But how changed were all our opinions, even before those chapters appeared. The credit for dignity in its foreign transactions which the Russian government had enjoyed, was gone. The cheering signs, springing from what had been done at home for the amelioration of the condition of the serfs, for the advance of education, and for the gradual formation of a third estate, or influential middle class, yet scarce per ceptible among the people — prospects that had made the path of the traveller cheerful in the very land of exiles — had all fled.

Notwithstanding these disadvantages, how ever, the narrative met a favorable reception. Changed indeed as our opinions have necessarily become, scarce an instance has occurred, of any writer in the critical press, forming so illiberal a judgment, from the cheerful light in which the traveller viewed many things that came under his observation, as to suppose that there could be any Englishman so simple or so base, as really

PREFACE.

. to desire to soften opinions entertained in this country concerning the general influence of despotic institutions. Thus, it is tolerably certain, that the absence in this volume, of all further remarks concerning the social and political institutions of our present enemies, will not be mistaken for obstinate persistence in seeing the cheerful signs of advancement and progress, where there i_s now nothing but disorder, and the prospect of social and political disorganisation. The few remarks herein made upon the institutions of the western countries of the Baltic, will not perhaps be found greater than is almost necessary in every similar narrative, to give our movements reality, and impress us with the moral changes which accompany our transport from the shore of one country to that of another. PAGE 1 24 CONTENTS. — ♦ —

Chapter I

Design of the Tour — Departure from the Thames — Appearance of the sea — Fellow passengers — Enjoyment of the change — Second day — Dutch coast — Heligoland — Hanoverian shore — Character of the River Elbe — Surrounding scenery — Villas — Shipping — Landing at Hamburg — Reception given to foreigners — Character of Hamburg — The state — -Government — Population — Fires — Thoroughfares — Ornamental waters — Ramparts — Departure for Kiel — Aspect of the country — Departure for Copenhagen — The voyage — Company — View of the Swedish coast — First sight of Copenhagen — Fortresses — Wrecks of Danish men-of-war — Arrival

Chapter II

Position of the City — Population — Fortifications— Citadel — Reception of foreigners — Hotel — Table d'hCte — Company — Amateur guide — -Inspection of the chief thoroughfares of the city — Inconveniences to walkers — Characteristics of the population — Visit to the gardens of Rosenburg — The bastions of the citadel The company — Discourse — Danish opinions of England and English literature — The traveller's manner of conversing with foreigners — Danish literature — A Dane's opinion of Pope — Danish authors — Tivoli gardens — Amusements . . .14

Chapter III

Citadel — A state prison — Palace of Christiansburg — Museum of Northern Antiquities — Runic stones — Relics of the Norsemen — Implements of war and industry — A curiosity — Trait of Danish delicacy — Royal Museum — General collection of antiquities — Two Museums of Natural History — Churches — Vow Frue Kirke — Comparisons of Danish and Italian sculpture- — Tomb of Thorwaldsen — Statue of the sculptor — Church of the Trinity — Observatory — Tower — Legend — Library — Castle of Rosenburg — Curiosities — Certificate of the freedom of London — Monuments — Column to commemorate the abolition of feudal servitude — Cemetery — Obelisk — Hospital — Remarkable character of the asylum — The professor's account of it — Arsenal — Docks — Marine — Army — Aiecdote concerning the slave trade CONTENTS. X

Chapter IV. Page

Passage by a Danish packet — Company on board — Amusements — Russian officers — Russian squadron — Elsinore — Chief objects of interest — The fortress— The castle — Tower — View— Chapel of the fortress — Palace of Marienlyst — Gardens — Hamlet's garden, monument, and tomb — Embark for Christiania — Young English traveller — Advice to young travellers in general — Scenery— Gottenburg— Gulf of Skargerack— Fiord of Christiania — Aspect of the fiord .42

Chapter V

Natural features of the country — Climate — Productions — Population — Chief objects of interest in Norway — Origin of the inhabitants — Extraordinary form of government — Composition of the Storthing — Qualifications for the franchise — Mode of exercising the franchise — Manner of performing acts of legislation — Popular character of the Storthing — Character of the Norwegians — Resemble the Danes — Position of the capital — Dwellings. — Departure of my fellow traveller — Curious carriage — Promenade on horseback — View from the hills. 49

Chapter VI

Departure — Remarkable passenger — A sailor's curious history — Member of the Storthing's opinion of the union of Sweden and Norway — Bad opinion of the merchants of the Baltic of our ships— Causes — General conversation — Departure of the sailor — -Legislator — Recollections of the Legislator's discourse — Arrival at Gottenburg — Gottenburg — Streets — Canals — Gloomy aspect — Population — Remains of ancient fortifications. — Suburbs — Exchange — Anticipated revival of the trade of Gottenburg. 58

Chapter VII

Commencement of the voyage — Aspect of the country — Gotha river — Ruins of the castle of Kannelf — Canal — Falls of Ockerswart — Character of the country — Farms — Locks — Cataracts of Trolhaltan — Impressive character of the scenery — Aspect of the country — W enersborg — Lake Wenern — Gloomy character of the lake — Superstitions — Passage of the lake — Small lake Weken— Serpentine fiords— A brig— The great lake Western — Stormy character of this lake — Canal of Ostgotha — Lake Boren — Lake Roxen — Ice carriages — Swedish spa Soderkoping — Genius of commerce in holiday humour — Bombardment of a storehouse — Effects of good humour on commercial affairs CONTENTS. XI PAGE Re-enter the Baltic sea — Further inland navigation — Remark able bridge — Lake Malarin — First view of Stockholm — Striking scenery — Raptures of our inland-bred passengers — Character of our voyage. ...... 6*.

CHAPTER VHI. Natural features of the country — Climate — Forests — Wild animals — Population— Productions — Agricultural produce — Minerals — Manufactures — Government — Stockholm — Population — Chief object of interest at Stockholm — Position of the city — General aspect — A tour of the streets — Statue of Gustavus III. — Royal palace — Statue of Gustavus Adolphus — Chief Streets — Character of the dwellings — Public promenade — Statue of Charles XIII. — Military parade— Statue of Charles XII. — Ancient portion of the city — Riddarhursit — Church of the Riddarhojm — Monuments — Tomb of Gustavus Adolphus — Display of bad taste — Tomb of Charles XII. — Royal Tombs — Respect for the memory of Bernadotte — Oscar — Church of St. James — Church of Adolphus Frederick — Royal Palace — Library — The Riddarhursit — Historical interest — The park — Swedish marine and army. ....... 84

Chapter IX

Descent of the Lake Malarin— View of the palace and gardens of Drotsingsholm — Its gloomy aspect — Causes — Agreeable company • — Palaces not characteristic of a people — Character of the first chamber we entered — Swedish delicacy — Portraits — Representations of battles — Sleeping chamber of Gustavus III. — Veneration of the Swedes for the memory of Gustavus III. — Other chambers — Presents from the Empress Catharine — Unsatisfactory character of too rapid a view of paintings — The gardens — Curious theatre in the open air — Return to Stockholm 98

Chapter X

Departure from Stockholm — First morning of our voyage — Aland isles and islets — Russian fortresses — Population and productions of the islands — Gulfs of Bothnia and Finland — Position of Abo — Picturesque scenes — Physical character of the country ■ — Climate — Production — Forests — Fisheries — Commerce — Character of the people — Genius for poetry — Civil institutions — Era of their conversion to Christianity — View of Abo — Harbour arrival — Landing — Formalities — Population of the town — Churches — Senate-house — Observatory — Surrounding views. .......-•• CONTENTS. PAGE 112

Chapter XI

Departure from Abo — Gulf of Finland — Forts — Hango Head — Eknas — Sveaborg — Port Baltic — Revel — Character of the coasts — Numerous isles — Finnish airs — Arrival at Helsingfors — Fortifications — Sweaborg — Tour of the town — Population — Public buildings — Monument to Alexander — Departure — Revel — Departure for St. Petersburg — The gulf — Swedish victory — Bad weather at night — Approaches to the capital — Cronstadt — Examination — An inspector of the secret police — A monstrous nose — Passports — Letters of introduction — Mount the Neva — View of St. Petersburgh — Comparison with other cities — Nearer view — Arrival .....

Chapter XII

The traveller's practice in viewing cities — Empress' fete — The world at Peterhoff — Lesser festivities — Character of the gaieties — Fire-works — Second day — Promenade on foot — Admiralty Square — Surrounding buildings — Monuments — Great streets — Nevski Perspective — The buildings — Indicative drawings — Mistake — Primitive custom — Advantages to foreigners and peasants — Gay scenes — Promenaders on foot — Vehicles — Uniforms — Absence of the Imperial Guard — Bourgeoisie — Isvoshtchiis — Droshkies — Novelty in the mode of (hiving — Description of the Droshkies — Varieties — Butshniks — Usual order in the streets — Return to our hotel . . . .124

Chapter XIII

Kazan cathedral — Restraint upon art — Position of the church — Imitation of St. Peter's at Rome — Anomalies — Suggestion to remedy this inconvenience — Ikonostas — Character of the mass — Decorations — Pictures — Its sculpture — Chief altar — Screen — Flags taken in war — Warmth of the worshippers — Resemble the Moslems — Virgin of Kazan — Waste of riches — Citadel of St. Petersburgh — Church of St. Peter and Paul — Imperial tombs — View from the turrets of the citadel — Scene upon the river— Peter the Great's cottage — Peter's work — Effects of his genius — Exchange — Rostrum columns — Busy throng — Bargains of the merchants — Costume of merchants — Prayer mingled with business — Gastinnoi Dvor — Character of the retail merchants — Importunity ........ 137

Chapter XIV

Winter palace — Difficulty of entrance — Unexpected aid — -Amateur guide — Grand reception room — Hall of Alexander — Hall of St. George — Portraits — Paintings — Characteristics of the CONTENTS. XIII PAGE Russians — General impression — Hermitage — Katherine II.'s habits — Private chapel — Library — Theatre — Painting — Sculpture — Marble palace — Statue of Peter the Great — Alexander column — Character of the monument — Objections to it — Effects of the frost — Academy of Science — Museum of the Academy — Dull guide — Mammoth — Remains of the animal — Academy of Arts — Pictures — Brunoff — Mining Academy — System of education for the mines — Curious models — Museum of the Academy — Specimens of minerals . 154

Chapter XV

Russian Foundling Hospital — Peculiar constitution — Founded by the Empress Katherine — Number of children relieved — Wide influence of the institution — Regulations — Amateur guide — ■ Director — Extent of the building — Touching scene upon entering the first chamber — Beauty of the young women — Several chambers — Remarkable instance of refinement in charity — Effects — Spacious dining hall — Children at dinner — Regulations — Effects of the climate of St. Petersburgh on the benefit of the charity — A thousand girls at table — Distinguished by degrees of rank — Peculiarity that distinguishes the institutions of the Russians — The dishes of the children — Tschee — Rye bread — Quass — Dinner closed by a hymn — Regulations for the children leaving — Impressions with which we left the asylum .......... 164

Chapter XVI

Visit to Cronstadt — British consul, Mr. Booker — Inspection of the fort — Harbours — Bastions — Position of the island — -Views — Work of Peter the Great — Difficult navigation — Fortresses — Six forts — Number of guns — Defences on several sides — Defences of the island — Merchant harbour and shipping — Employment of Danish men-of-war — Middle harbour — Men-ofwar harbour — Method of transporting ships from St. Petersburgh to Cronstadt — Origin of the Russian fleet — Number of Russian ships of war — Russian seas — Statue of Peter — Arsenal Flags — Gardens — Boulevards — Divisions of the town — Population of the island — Return to the consulate — The consul's garden — Remarks — Return to St. Petersburgh . . .174

Chapter XVII

Departure for Krasno Selo — Companions — -Gate of Riga — Palace of Katherine — Lunatic Asylum — The road — Aspect of the country — Villas — Distance — Village of Krasno Selo — Rain — The camp — Outposts — Rain — Lonely position — Arrival of the Emperor — Striking scene — Symbols of power, and of the obligations of society — Order to the staff officers— Disappoint- CONTENTS. PAGE 185 ment — Rain — Ouiseeming want of manners — Departure from the camp — Overtaken by the Emperor— Courage of our yemtschik race— A sovereign shamming asleep— Arrival at Peterhoff— Gardens— Avenues — Fountains— Flowers — Palace — View from the palace — Novel appearance of the forests — Gardens and fountains below — Descent to the lower gardens- — Lakes— Fountains— Water-falls— Statues — Groves — Reservoir — Canal— Samson — Two of Peter the Great's dwellings- Marly — Montplaisir — Boat constructed by Peter the Great — Curiosities in Montplaisir — Numerous works of Peter — Chariots of the palace — Paintings — Bed in wliich Peter died — Peter's habits — His clothes — Obeyed by the fish — Peter's wonderful genius — Return to the palace — The imperial family dining — Simplicity of the arrangements — An English governess Imperial children — The Empress

Chapter XVIII

Royal village — Situation — Favourite promenade of the citizens of St. Petersburgh — Want of a guide — Village of Tsarkoe Selo — First view of the palaces — Meeting with a friendly party — The ancient palace — Comparison with other palaces — Curiosities — Precious works of art — Two rooms of great and distinguished interest — Chamber of historic interest — Chamber of sentimental interest — Emperor Alexander — Views from the palace — Statue of Romanoff — The modern palace — Paintings — Decorations — Conservatory — Movable screen of ivy — Picture of the Virgin — Apartment of affecting interest — The late Archduchess Alexandra — Miniature chapel — Picture — Its effect on our ladies — Memory of this princess venerated — Pavilion of the late Archduchess — Swans — Tomb of the Archduchess — Monument — Return to St. Petersburgh — What the traveller saw of the society of St. Petersburgh — A merchant's eye on Constantinople for a permanent capital — English merchants — Prince Soltykoff — The prince's works — Perils of St. Petersburgh — Real or imaginary discussed — The calamity possible — Not probable 203

Chapter XIX

Distance — Inconveniences of not knowing the language of the country. — Description of a Russian diligence companion — Vain attempt to converse — Triumphal arch — Desolate plain — Road — Waste of country — One village — Excellent tea — Samovar — Disagreeable companions — Refreshing effects of good tea — Midnight scene — Ancient republic of Novgorod — Hopes of relief — Change of companion — Polite stranger — River Volkhoy Aspect of the country — Valdai hills — Bad construction of the diligence — Advantages of having travelled in America — Torjok Industry of Torjok — Sole incident of the journey worthy of CONTENTS. XV PAGE 216 229 242 249 notice — Peasants in distress — Generosity of my companion — Raptures of the peasants — Arrive at Twer — Advantage of fires — Cause of present importance of Twer — Arrival at Moscow.

Chapter XX

Two capitals of Rnssia — Comparison between them — The Kremlin — Different from ordinary citadels of fortified towns — Palaces — Depository of precious articles — Churches — Kaitai Garod — Spass Varota (Holy Gate) — Picture — Legend — Ceremonies — Holy Ground — Views from the terrace within the fortress — Tower of Ivan Veliki (John the Great) — View from the tower — Churches — Towers — Walls — Gardens — Plains — View beyond the outer walls — Convents of Donskoi and Devitchi — View of the river Moskva — Russian bells — Want of our chimes. — The sovereign of bells — Dimensions — Place of the Senate — Regalia — Crowns — Thrones — Arsenal — Garden of the Kremlin.

Chapter XXI

St. Nicholas' Gate — Chapel — Much frequented — Interior scenes — Penitents — Violent devotion — Compared to Petruchio's manner of making love — Numbers of chapels — Scorn of the Muscovites of the inhabitants of St. Petersburgh — Signs of reverence passing the churches — Appearances of zeal — Strange character of their zeal — Apparent inconsistency — Proofs of the existence of a tolerant spirit amidst superstition and zeal — Other street scenes— Inebriety — Drunkards of different countries compared — Character of Russian drunkenness— Mixture of devotion and drunkenness .........

Chapter XXII

Religious character of the people — Number of the churches — Different kinds of churches — Private chapels — Style of architecture — Greek cross — Latin cross — Cross above the crescent — Kolokolniks (bell-towers) — Bells in trees in country towns — Variations of style — Many churches in one — Gay colours — Symbols — Church of Iverskaya Bosnia Mater — Two travelled pictures — Miracles performed by these pictures — Church of the Arkhangelsk Sabor — Mass — Reading the Scriptures — Attendance at church — The attendance of the classes and sexes compared to that in Romish churches — Muscovites' explanation of the manner of crossing — Trinity in unity — Traveller's improvement in making the sign — Opening of the ikonastos — Gay appearance — Conclusion announced by bells — Examination of the sanctuary — Private reading the Bible in the Sclavonic tongue — Resemblance to the present tongue of the peasants . CONTENTS. PAGE 262

Chapter XXIII

Tea-houses of Moscow — Comparison with the cafet of Paris and chocolate-houses of Madrid — Music — Impressions made on strangers — Costume of the attendants — Moderate prices — Mixed company — Comparison with our manners — With the French ideas of rank — Manner of taking the tea — Company at a late hour — No disorders — Russian wedding — Greek prince and family — The bridegroom — Tedious ceremonies — New arrangements to preserve order — Reading the Bible — The bride — Display of Russian beauty — Peculiar advantages for the display of beauty — Crossing and bowing — Arrival of crowns — New ceremonies — Want of regard to the solemnity of the occasion — A merry grandmamma — Conclusion of the ceremonies — Visit to a Tartar mosque — Tartar quarter of the city — Tartars not resident — Poverty of the Moslems — Tartar worship ..........