Belgium and western Germany in 1833.

Chapter I. Page

Lord Liverpool Steam-boat — Private Theatricals — Military Mass — Ghistelles — Jabbeke — Oudenboui'g — Flemish Farm-house — Fete Dieu — M. Paret — Bruges — M. Moke — Hospital of St John — JeruspJem Chapel — Marche au Vendredi — Hotel de Commerce 9

CHAPTER n.

Ghent — Antiquities — St. Bavon — ThejUniversity — Schamp's Collection — BuU-Fight — Espions — Beguinage — St. Michael's — Antwerp — Spanish Air — Effects of the Siege .... 23

CHAPTER m.

Antwerp — Notre Dame — Rubens — Academy — ^Vandyke — Calvary — Passports — Voitures — Arrival at Brussels — Belgian Politics — M. Alexandre Rodenbach — Chamber of Representatives — ^Duel —Society — ^Palace of the Prince of Orange — !Mint — MM. Vandermaclen — M. Robyns — i)u Bos — Theatre — St, Gudule — Old Town — Louvain — Turoneren — Dilapidations — Tree of Liberty 33

CHAPTER IV.

Waterloo — St. Jean — Belle Alliance — ^.lonuments — Road to Naraur — Namur — Huy — Pensionnat — Citadel — • Liege — Quentin Durward — Churches — Chaudfontaine — Belgian Politics . 49

CHAPTER V.

Aix-la-Chapelle — Charlemagne — Napoleon — Relics — King of Prussia — German Politics 67"

CHAPTER VI.

Journey to Cologne — Reasons for travelling — The Cathedral — Museum — Public Walks — Music — Bonn — Concert — Students — Smoking ....... 74 ti CONTENTS.

CHAt'f ER fit. ►

PAGE.

Goclesberg— The Seven Hills— Drachenfels—Friesdorf— Stromberg — Catholic Devotion — Kreutzberg — I^uried Monks— Table d'h6te — German Manners — Unkel — -Laacher^^ee , . '. ' 85

CHAPTER Vm.

Rolandseck— Orlando Furioso — Nonnenworth— Unkel— Neuwied

— Coblentz— The Moselle — Steam-boat Passengers— Mayence 104

CHAPTER IX.

Mayence — Cathedral — Francfort — Theatre — Cathedral — St. Catherine's — Cemetery — Jewish Synagogue — Luther — Hesse Hombom-g . . • • • • • US

CHAPTER X.

Darmstadt — Heppenheim — Storkenberg — Bergstrosse — Weinhcim — Peasantry — Crops — Mannheim— The Palace — Ducal Gardens — Ball— Observatory — Cliurch of . the Jesuits — Theatre — Schwetzingen Gardens . . . . . . 137

CHAPTER XI.

Heidelberg — Neuenheim — Heidelberg Castle — The Necker — Neckersteinach — Tilsberg — Steinach — Tun of Heidelberg — Broken Tower — English Antiquaries . . . 150

CHAPTER XII.

Route to Carlsruhe — Seats for Travellers — Wiesloch— Lutheran Hymn — Avenue of Poplars — Carlsruhe — Palace Gardens — Opera — Baden — Chabert's — Old and New Castles — ^^Promenade — Gambhng Rooms ...... 171

CHAPTER XIII.

Old Castle—- Secret Tribunal — Roman Bath — Dress Ball — Baden Company — The Gaming Table — Sunday Evening — The Mourgthal — The Mummelsee — Gernsbach — The Khngel — Eberstein —The Mourg . . . . . .181

CHAPTER XIV.

Confinement in the Secret Tribunal — Spiral Staircase — Chamber from which the Prisoners were let down — Theatre — Gambling — Strasbourg — Cathedral — Mummies — Maniac — Monument of Marechal Saxe — Return to Baden — Remarkable Characters- Departure ....... 199

CONTENTS. Vil

^aAjpTER XY.

PAGE.

Return to ManriUeuTV-T-German Honesty — Batliing- at Mannheim and ^aden — Disappearance of the Jesuits— Voyage to Mayence — Douaiife at Worrns-r— Wiesbaden — Walks— Antiqiiities — Drinking- the Waters — Opera— Rooms — Gaming . ' . 213

• CHAPTER XVI.

Nassau Scenery — Langen-Schwalbach — ^Nassau — Ems — Pleasant Rencontre — Kurhaus — Public Rooms — Excursion to Braubach — Fortress of Marksberg — Boat on the Rhine — Pilgrims — Attempt at Suicide . v . . . , 222

CHAPTER XVn.

Kurhaus Bazaar — German Ladies — Anecdote of Napoleon — Gambhng Fanatic — Donkey Excursion to Pfingstwaide — Table d'Hote — English Party— Reasons for English Shyness — Unnecessary in Germany — Anecdote of a timid English Traveller — -Duke of Nassau — Departure from Ems — Road over the Taunus hills — Ehrenbreitstein — Coblentz — St. Goar . . . 234

CHAPTER XVm.

"God save the King" — Village School — Prussian Education — Freedom of the Press — National Education — The Rheinfels — Country above St. Goar — Students — Smoking — Churches — Excursion to Rheinstein — The Pfalz — Bacharach — Prince Frederick's Castle — Caspar Melchior — Nassau Scenery — Boating disagi'eeable — Star-light — Vine-dressers . . . 252

CHAPTER XIX.

Voyage up the River to Mayence — Ingelheim Fighters — Le Favorite — Francfort — Marberg — Cassel — Marble Bath — Willielmshohe — Cassel — German Politics — Road to the Harz — Gottingen Education — Osterode— First View of the Harz — Entrance to the Forest — Goslar — Expedition to the Brocken — Ilsingbourg 269

CHAPTER XX.

Ascent of the Brocken — Charcoal-clearings — Iron Cross — Confusion of Rocks — Desolation — Top of the Mountain — Brocken- House — Witches' Orchestra — Devil's Pulpit — Witches' Dog-stone— Sunset — ^Night Storm — Morning Clouds — Effect of the Wind — Descent from the Brocken— Return to Goslar . 288

CHAPTER XXI.

Antiquities of Goslar — Altar of Croton — Hanover — Herrenhausen — Theatre — Salt Works at Rehme — Sea of Rocks — Cologne — Steam-boat — Rotterdam — Conclusion . . - 304

BELGIUM AND WESTERN GERMANY

1^ 1833.

CHAPTER L l,orJ Liverpool Steam-boat — Private tlieatricals— Military Mass — Ghistelles— J abbeke — Oudenbourg- — Flemish Farm-house — F6te-Dieu — M. Paret — Brug-es — M. Moke — Hospital of St. John — Jerusalem Chapel— Marche au Vendredi — Hotel de Commerce.

I LEFT London for Ostend on the 1st of June, accom=

panied by my son and Mr. H . The weather was

delightful, and we had several agreeable fellow-passengers, but I should have been sorely vexed had I spied any transatlantic acquaintance among them ; for, in truth, a comparison between the accommodation on board the Lord Liverpool packet, and that which is found in all and every of the unnumbered steam-boats of the United States, would have redounded ver}? little to the honour of our steam-establishment.

The vessel w^as dirty, and the fare both bad and insufficient. Had any accident detained us, even for a few hours, the passengers, among whom there were many children, must have suffered very seriously from want of provision; for after the three o'clock dinner not an atom of bread, or even biscuit remained on board.

We reached Ostend a little after midnight, and found very comfortable rooms bespoken for us at the Waterloo Hotel. Notwithstanding the uncouth hour, we sat down to a meal, wherein supper was at odds with breakfast, as to which it might be called ; but it was rendered extremely welcome by the previous fast.

It was my purpose to pass a few days at Ostend, both for the sake of enjoying the society of some friends residing there, and because my son had engaged to take a part in the representation of a comedy^ whicli was to be performed by a party of English amateurs, who had amused themselves for. some days before our arrival in preparing it. This comedy (She Stoops to Conquer) was extremely well got up, and performed with a great deal of spirit and cleverness ; but it was follow^ed by a farce, which very nearl}'^ proved a tragedy. This unlucky farce (Bombastus Furioso) has a single combat in the last scene, and luy son was wounded severely in the thigh, by a thrust from the sword of his adversary. This unlucky accident stretched our intended three days' stay to ten ; but fortunately produced no lasting inconvenience to the wounded hero.

Few tourists pause more than an hour or two at Ostend : it is passed through merely as a door-way, by which to enter the interesting country of which it is the frontier. I will not say that my residence often days taught me to find beauty in the sandy level on w^hich the town stands ;. but it enabled me to discover that, as a bathing-place, it has many advantages.

As a sea-walk, the Levee, which is raised before the fortifications, and passes on for a miie beyond them, is delightful. In addition to its fine sea view, it has the attraction of the elegant pavilion recently built upon it under the superintendence of the British Consul. This pretty edifice, vvhich commands a noble marine view, is fitted up with great taste for the rest and amusement of the loungers. It contains rooms for reading, refreshments, and raffling ; and is altogether as agreeable a resort as any bathing-place I have seen can boast.

There is another circumstance at Ostend, which I consider very important as one of the agrcniens of a summer residence ; it has a cheap and most abundant market for vegetables, fruit and flowers, wliich perhaps struck me the more, from my having so often experienced the want of these luxuries at our own w^atering-places.

Henry's wound, though it confined him to his bed, in no resj)ect affected iiis general health, and the tedious restraint was alleviated by books, and the visits of many wlio were kind enough to take pity on his seclusion. Among these was his young adversary, whose constant attention showed a very amiable degree of regret for the unlucky accident. With such excellent substitutes to take my place, I felt no scruple at leaving him ; and found time to see all Ostend has to show.

On Sunday I attended mass at the fine old church of St. Peter. The pulpit, confessionals, and stalls are superbly carved. There is no great architectural beauty in the build= ing; but each of the three aisles is terminated by a very • handsome altar. It was vexing to my reformed eyes, to see one of these profaned by a huge wooden doll, with a fine watch at her side, and dressed in satins and lace, intended to represent the Virgin. Its draperies and decorations had just been refreshed and renewed, in preparation for the Fete- Dieu, w^hich was to take place on the following Sunday. Nothing could be more childishly grotesque than this figure: yet I was touched by the unmistakeable devotion of a poor old woman, who kneeled on the pavement before it. Her withered arms were extended, and an air of the most passionate adoration animated her sunken features, as she gazed on this frightful idol. — And after' all, perhaps, there is something sublime in the state of mind, which allows not the senses to dwell on the object before them, but, occupied alone by the holiness of the symbol, is raised by it to such thoughts of heaven, as chase all feelings but those of devotion. That this is often the case with sincere Roman Catholics I have no doubt; and it is impossible to witness the feeling, without losing all inclination to ridicule the source of it.

After the first service was concluded, we remained in the church to witness that most incongruous medley of sighs and sounds, a military mass. I was well pleased to be present at a ceremony so perfectly new to me ; but it hovered so strangel}' between the sublime and the ridiculous, that it would be difiicult to describe its effect. The measured tread of the long lines of soldiery reverberating along the lofty aisles, and the subdued, serious look that quenched their martial bearing, as they ranged themselves in triple file round the building, were solemn and impressive ; but when the grim and grotesque sapeurs, acconipanied by the whole band, marched up to the very steps of the altar, which they seemed to besiege with their thundering drums and trumpets, I knew not how to fancy the ceremony a religious one.

The next day was spent in an excursion with a very agreeable pic-nic party, to show us something of the neighbouring country. We first drove to Ghistelles, a pretty village with a handsome church. The most interesting object in it is a monument erected to a certain Countess Godelieve, who was barbarously murdered by command of her husband, some few hundred years ago, and is now worshipped as a saint. Her stately monument, indeed, might,- with more propriety, be termed an altar, for the lower part of it is arranged as such, and beside is a shrine of brass, containing the bones of the strangled lady, before which a lamp is kept burning day and night. In the highest compartment of this monumental altar is a group of three figures, which even at that height appear as large as life. This composition represents the manner of the murder, which was performed by strangulation. A cord appears to be twisted round the neck of the kneeling female, either end of which is in the hand of a ruffian, who is represented as putting forth his whole strength to complete the work. The attitude of one of these, who seems to be pressing his knee against the victim, to obtain a better purchase for his pull, is horribly true to nature. They sell a little book in the church containing St. Godelieve's legend, her litany, and some account of her miracles. The following is a translation of the legend : —

" Godelieve was a woman of France, and married a baron of Flanders, who, being a very wicked man, and influenced by a still more atrocious mother, hated her for her goodness, and also for having black hair, unlike the fair girls of his own country. He, therefore, had her strangled, but afterwards repenting him of the cruel deed, he became a monk at Bruges, and subsequently caused this church to be erected to her memory."

1 do not find the name of this saint in the calendar, but the miracles recorded to her honour are numerous, and some of no distant date. A lively Swiss lady, who was one of our 'pic-nic, told me that a saint of older standing who had also an altar in the church, had felt himself much offended by the superior devotion manifested for the parvenue St. Godelieve. How this displeasure was made known I did not learn ; but the Cure informed his parishioners that some relics of this older saint were certainly concealed near Gliistelles. Accordingly a day was chosen, on which he set out at the head of all the faithful to seek for them. They went about and about for many hours, but found nothing; at length the Cure declared he could go no farther, for his limbs refused to support him ; and so saying, he stretched himself on the earth. After some time, he again attempted to proceed; but was still unable to move. "My children,'' he repeated, *'I can go no further; — search here, even here, where my strength failed me." They did so — and, vv-onderful to tell, found a finger bone exactly at the spot where the pious man had laid him down to rest.

This well-authenticated finger of the saint was conveyed to his altar, and enshrined with all the observant devotion for which les braves Beiges are so justly celebrated. It has already wrought many wonderful miracles ; and, to use the words of our bright-eyed chronicler, " La pauvre St. Godelieve a perdu la plus grande partie de sa pratique."

Close to the church is the sight of the old castle of Ghistelles, and some trifling remains of the building may yet be traced.

The prison of the little town is under the same roof as the hotel ; a vicinity which would render any long sojourn there far from agreeable. We saw two very wretched countenances glaring upon us through the bars, at the distance of a few feet, as we passed from the door to the carriage.

From Ghistelles we proceeded to Jabbeke, where the Baron von Larebeke has a very handsome residence. Like all old mansions of the noblesse in that country, it has its tower and its moat. The gardens are large and very full of roses, which seem to flourish to perfection in the sandy soil; but unfortunately wooden efligies of men and women, painted proper, as heralds call it, were almost equally abundant. Some of these groups are much too strange for description.

The baron Was absent, but we were permitted to see the chateau. It contains several handsome apartments^ and a gallery of pictures, among which are some few originals oi the Flemish, and many copies of the Italian schools. Having amused ourselves here till we were a little tired, and very hungry, we walked. back to the inn, where we had left the carriage ; and sat down to a repast, agreeable in every way.

We returned to Ostend by a different route, that took us through Oudenbourg, for the purpose of seeing some of the highly cultivated gardens which supply the Ostend market; and also to visit a farm belonging to a relation of one of our party, which showed us an excellent specimen of the interior of a Flemish farm-house. The extremest cleanliness, the kindest civility, and a magnificent display of rich cream and Valenciennes lace, vv^ere among its most remarkable features. We observed also many indications of devout Catholicism. Dolls superbly dressed, with lesser dolls pinned to their stomachers, to represent the Virgin and Child, and crucifixes of various dimensions, were displayed in seven different nooks of the principal apartment.

This room, which was very large, had a neat curtained bed. Its snow-white quilt and nicely flounced pillows looked as if it were intended only for show. Wesaw, howev^er, in the.kitchen, and other inferior rooms, preparations for sleeping less delicately, the beds being laid literally in cupboards ranged against the walls.

Our lovely Swiss friend coaxed the good woman of the liouse to exhibit the stays she wore on great occasions. They were unquestionably of many pounds weight; and were furnished, on both sides with iron bars, which, one should think, must enter, if not into her soul, at least into her heart, every time she stooped. An examination of this machine enabled me to comprehend the meaning of a term in common use among us. I have often felt at a loss to know why a lady's corset should be termed '^ a pair of stai/s;'' but with this massive fiibric before me, I at once perceived its origin and meaning. . Ribs of steel are enclosed within it on either side, and it could hardly be better described than by calling it a pnir of stays, or supports. About halfway down the sides of this ponderous structure is a huge solid, roll of stuffing, which nearly surrounds the waist, and on this the petticoats are suspended.

After a full examination of this <^' foreign wonder," we were shown many singularly-fashioned caps, hordered by the most delicate lace. Though the whole CvStablishment had an air of comfort and plenty about it, the cos.tly elegance of these decorations surprised me. But it was easy to perceive that a feeling of family dignity was attached to them. The blooming daughters of the house, whose bright hair had never yet been shaded by anything beyond a ribbon, listened to our expressions of admiration, which were carefully interpreted, with much such satisfaction as the daughter of a baron might feel if her paternal castle were the theme of praise.

The dairy at this house was really a beautiful sight, even though at one end of it we perceived a nymph skimming cream with her fingers. This, indeed, is the universal method ; and if anything could reconcile one to the strange operation, it would be the delicate rosy tips of the Rubenslike fingers we saw so employed.

I have never in any country remarked finer crops than in the sandy plain round Ostend. The mode of husbandry is careful and laborious ; but the returns are very great. The constant application of manure converts the arid soil into a fine loom ; and every inch of it is as carefully weeded as the nicest garden. This fatiguing but necessary part of good husbandry is performed chiefly by women, who crawl along the ground on their hands and knees, and in this attitude appear to draw the weeds more efiectually, and with less labour, than can be done by stooping.

The ploughing of this district is, as may be supposed, peculiarly light ; and is often performed by a single milch cow. No part of Flemish farming appeared to me more worthy of attention than the general management of their cows. They are constantly kept in stables, and fed twice in the day with green meat, of almost every possible variety of vegetation. The collecting this is one of the many agricultural labours constantly performed by women ; and it is no inconsiderable feature in the picturesque aspect of the country that groups of maids and matrons are perpetually seen bearing, with wonderful ease and activity of step, enormous loads of fresh-cut fodder on their heads. I have seen many a pair of bright eyes, and many a dimpled cheek, peeping out sometimes from a bundle of flowery clover, sometimes from a bush formed of the young shoots of foresttrees, and not unfrequently from the thrifty gatherings of every weed, or handful of tufted grass that grows beside the road. That there is much economy of everything but labour in this, is very evident; and, as far as I was able to judge, the cows prospered marvellously by this regular mode of furnishing their meals in the stall, instead of permitting them to be constantly browsing in the fields. I never met with either bad butter or adulterated milk; and it appeared to me that there was a greater abundance, and freer use of both, than I had been accustomed to see elsewhere.

I rejoiced to find myself, on the 9th of June, in so very Catholic a country ; for the ceremonies by which the Fete- Dieii was celebrated were really splendid, considering the size of the town. The streets were lined with double rows of young straight-grown fir-trees ; every house being charged with the expense of purchasing such, and having them stuck in for the occasion. In the open places of the city, groups of these same slender trees supported wreaths and garlands of flowers, under which the host was carried in a splendid ark.

The Cure, who bore this in his hands, was himself superbly dressed ; and at each corner of the canopy, borne above his head, walked a child of four or five years old, in fancy costume, that looked as if it had been arranged by a balletmaster. Three of them had wings; and the fourth, dressed as an infant St. John, would have been a beautiful model fur a painter. The procession consisted of all the military in the garrison, a numerous cortege of priests, with their attendants, and the various associated companies of the town. But by far the prettiest part of the spectacle consisted of the double ro V of little girls, elegantly dressed in white, their heads adorned with wreaths of roses, and long white veils. Above two hundred of these pretty creatures, looking all smiles and gladness, followed the host ; and when the procession paused, while the awful symbol was laid on the altar of the different re.po&oirs prepared to receive it, they, as well as the assembled multitude, who followed them, prostrated themselves upon the ground before it. The children all visited the Cure in his sacristy as soon as the ceremony was over, and each received from him a little cornet of bonbons.

I made many visits during the progress of the procession, with my friend, Mrs. F , to houses advantageously situated for giving a good view of it. This seemed to be the fashion, for we met large parties at several of them. Some of these houses were extremely handsome and well fitted up.

After all this was over, we went with the party to visit a rustic hotel, at the distance of two miles from Ostend, where a dinner had been bespoken for us. To see the master of this establishment was the chief object of the excursion ; and he is, indeed, a very interesting personage. Without education, or advantage of any kind, beyond what his own active intellect and industry supplied, this M. Paret has made himself an excellent naturalist; and has collected a valuable cabinet of curious specimens in various branches of science. In particular, he has many beautifully arranged skeletons of remarkable fish, put together by himself. Of his ability in this branch of art, all those may judge, who saw the skeleton of the whale exhibited in the King's Mews ; for the preparation of it. was entirely the work of his hands. This whale v/as thrown upon the beach at Ostend, in 1827, and was purchased, from those who had a right to sell it, for the sum of one thousand francs. The purchaser immediately asked, and obtained, the willing aid of Paret; and by him it was arranged exactly as it was afterwards exhibited. It is painful to add, that for this laborious work the skilful artist is said never to have received any remuneration.

On the 10th of June we proceeded to Bruges, accompanied by the friends whose kindness had contrived to render Ostend extremely agreeable to us, notwithstanding the vexatious accident which had detained us there.

We travelled by one of the pretty packet-boats that navigate the noble canal ; choosing this mode of conveyance both because it was the easiest for my son, and also that we might see a work superior to everything of the kind in Europe ; for in China only, as we were told, can a still more superb canal be seen.

Bruges, and the country round it, is as flat as Ostend, but there is much to see and admire. Tliis fine old city was former]}^ the cajDital of Flanders, and remained so till the end of the fifteenth century, being; the great Flemish depot for the commerce of the Hanseatic League. This was the source of its vast wealth ; and to this may be traced the relics of former magnificence, which are still to be found there. When the monopoly was transferred to Antwerp, both the splendour and activity of Bruges declined ; and I was very gravely assured, that its principal trade at present is in beer and manure.

In fact, there is no appearance of commerce in any part of the city. A walk through the fine old streets, vvith their high pointed mansions, and richly carved ornaments, is like looking over a portfolio of Front's best drawings — but there are very few figures in active movement to enliven them. Nevertheless, it was far from being a " dull town to me." There is noj^^quarter that has not some historic record attached to it to excite interest, and gratify curiosity ; and it is^, therefore, notwithstanding its stillness,vvell worthy of detaining the traveller for several days. Many of the houses are extremely handsome, and almost all appear comfortable, and scrupulously clean. I never saw a city in which so little appearance of poverty met my eye. I was told that sixteen thousand of the inhabitants (the whole number being thirtyseven thousand) receive aid from public charities. Beggars are certainly seen at the church doors, but the streets exhibit no traces of want, or even of discomfort.

The tower of the Hotel de Ville is magnificent ; and those who take the trouble to climb it are rewarded not only by the panorama of the city, but b}^ so extended and unbroken a map of the country round it, as leaves a more graphic impression of Flemish scenery on the memory than can be obtained by any other means.

The machinery of the chimes, which occupies a room near the top of the tower, is another reward of the labour. It is surprisingly ingenious and elaborate. The enormous barrel, upon which a vast variety of tunes are arranged, is of brass ; and is really one of the handsomest instruments I ever saw.

The building containing the public library ought not to remain unseen. Its external form and proportions are singularly elegant. The cathedral church of St. Sauveur is rich, almost to excess, in ever}'' species of internal decoration. Carving, gilding, and massive silver, tapestry, painting, and sculpture, are all lavished up6n it in profusion ; but the fame of the church rests chiefly on two statues ; one of these is the Virgin and Child, said to be by Michael Angelo ; the other, a figure of the Almighty, by whose hand I know not; but it is a composition of wonderful power and majesty.

Notre Dame, standing as close to St. Sauveur as St. Margaret's to Westminster Abbey, is large, but very inferior in splendour to its magnificent neighbour. It has the honour, however, of containing the bones of Charles the Bold, and his daughter Mary, the wife of Maximilian. Their tombs of touchstone, superbly decorated, are most costly monumental structures, and are carefully enclosed in wooden cases, re-moved only on the payment of a fee.

I dare not rehearse all that I saw at Bruges which appeared to me worthy of attention ; for the catalogue would be too long for any to read with patience, unless they were about to set ofi' at the instant to visit this museum of antiquities.

The friends who so kindly accompanied us from Ostend introduced us to many of their Bruges acquaintance, which certainly increased the pleasure of our stay in no trifling degree. Among these I may take the liberty of naming one, who is already too well known to the public to make my doing so impertinent. M. Moke, the author of Hermann, is so enthusiastic in his love and admiration of Bruges, and so learnedly familiar with its history, as to make him an invaluable companion among its venerable archives, and mouldering grandeur. It may, perhaps, be partly ovving to -my having listened to its records from so eloquent an historian; and from having the splendid relics of its brighter days pointed out to me witli equal taste and feeling, that I remember this old city with more of interest and admiration than is usually bestowed upon it.