The diary of H. M. the Shah of Persia, during his tour through Europe in A. D. 1873.

Front matter

Bill

■b a.

■ I

Chapter I. Tehran To Astrakhan ; 26 Days

Leave Tehran, 1 ; reach Qazwin, 6 ; arrive at Rasht, 13 ; reach Enzeli, 16 : embark for Astrakhan, 17 ; accident to Russian Admiral, 20 ; anchor at Quarantine-ground off the Volga ; ascend river in boats, 22.

CHAPTER IT.

RUSSIA ; 14 DAYS.

Astrakhan. Aspect of the delta, 23 ; reach Astrakhan ; triumphal arch ; bread and salt, 25 ; palaces, 26 ; bath and fire-brigade, 27 ; theatre ; levee, 28 ; mosques, 29 ; museum, 30 ; leave by water for Tsaritsin, 30 ; aspect of Volga, 31 ; Tsaritsin; 31 ; railway to Moscow, 32.

Moscow. Arrive at Moscow ; lodged in the Kremlin, 35 ; Kremlin described, 36 ; theatre, 37 ; lower apartments and museum of the Kremlin, 38 ; Lazarof College ; ball ; fire brigade ; Ethnographic Museum, 40 ; leave for St. Petersburg by rail, 41.

St. Petersburg. Arrive, 41 ; lodged in the Winter Palace, 43 ; theatre, 44 ; review, 55 ; Prince of Oldenburg, 46 ; ball of the nobles, 47 ; the Hermitage, 48 ; state banquet, 49 ; Michael theatre, 50 ; visits, 51 ; the Hermitage again, 53 ; bank ; mint, 55 ; state ball, 56 ; Cronstadt, 57 ; Peterhof, 59 ; fireworks, 61 ; Tsarskoi-selo, 63 ; leave for Prussia, Q6.

xiv Contents.

Chapter III. Prussia, Germany, Belgium ; 20 Days

Railway. " Hole in a mountain ; " frontier reached, 68 ; Prussian station, 69 ; Konigsberg, 70 ; Frische-Haff, 72 ; Custrin, 73 ; reach Berlin, 73.

Berlin. Palace, 74 ; Potsdam, 76 ; Whitsunday ; relics of Frederick the Great, 77 ; mill in ruins, 78 ; palace of Prince Charles, 79 ; state banquet ; theatre, 80 ; Zoological Gardens, 81 ; cemetery, 84 ; the Empress, 82 ; Aquarium, 85 ; dinner, 87 ; theatre ; coronation of the Emperor, 85 ; review, 88 ; dine with the Empress, 89 ; gala night at theatre ; Sardanapalus, 89 ; lion of Holstein, 89 ; Order of Black Eagle, 90 ; Charlotte Pavilion ; Orangery ; Babelbrig, 91; Frederick the Great's tomb, 92 ; Crown Prince's house, 92 ; Parliament ; the Ecole-des-Cadets, 93 ; Prince Bismarck's house ; Museum ; visit of adieu, 94 ; Aquarium again, 95 ; leave for Cologne, 95 ; M. Krupp's factory, 96.

Rhine Country. Reach Cologne, 97 ; cathedral, 97 ; Botanical Gardens, 98 ; Zoological Gardens, 99 ; Coblentz, 100 ; Wiesbaden, 101 Mr. Blundberg's garden, 103 ; Prince Nicholas of Nassau, 104 Frankfort-on-the-Main, 105 ; the Palms, 106 ; Zoological Gardens,107 tomb of the Duchess of Nassau, 108 ; the Kur-Saal, 108 ; Emperor of Russia at Darmstadt, 110 ; Heidelberg ; Carlsruhe ; Baden troops, 111 ; Palace at Carlsruhe, 112 ; Baden-Baden, 113 ; Chapel and tomb, of Prince of Roumania, 115 ; palace, 116 ; steam down the Rhine, 118 ; Coblentz, 120 ; Bonn ; Cologne ; by rail to Spa, 120 ; Aix-la- Chapelle ; frontier of Belgium, 121.

Belgium. Spa, 122 ; Peter the Great ; footstep of St. Mark, 124 ; procession of the Virgin ; theatre, 126 ; Liege, 129 ; arrive at Brussels ; the King, 130 ; arrival of the English Officials in waiting, 131 ; theatre, 132 ; cathedral ; museum ; Chateau of Laken, 134 ; Zoological Garden ; Hotel de Ville, 13o ; state banquet, 136 ; leave Brussels ; Ostend ; embark on board the 'Vigilant,' 137 ; cross the straits, 138 ; Channel squadron ; arrive at Dover, 139 ; reach London, 141.

Contents. xv

Chapter IV. England ; 18 Days

Visits of ceremony, 144 ; receptions, 145 ; banquet at Marlborough House ; ball at Stafford House, 146 ; visit to the Queen, 147 ; Order of the Garter, 148 ; drive to Virginia Water and back, 149 ; evening party at Guildhall, 151 ; Woolwich, 155 ; theatre, 157 ; Zoological Gardens, 158 ; Naval Eeview at Portsmouth, 160 ; concert at Albert Hall, 164 ; review at Windsor, 167 ; ball at Foreign Office, 170 ; Tower, 171 ; trip down the river ; the Docks, 172 ; Greenwich Hospital ; Lord Nelson, 173 ; Naval College ; Observatory ; return ; tides, 174 ; state ball, 175 ; to Liverpool, 176 ; emigrants, 177 ; Trentham Hall, 179 ; works at Crew, 182 ; Manchester, 183 ; Chiswick, 185 ; Kichmond, 187 ; Lord Eussell ; Whigs and Tories, 188 ; receptions ; Lord Stratford de Redcliffe, 189 ; fire brigade, 190 ; boxing, 191 ; Crystal Palace, 191 ; gymnasts, 193 ; beggars ; perambulators, 195 ; Tower ; St. Paul's, 196 ; Bank, 197 ; Parliament, 198 ; Westminster Abbey, 200 ; visit of adieu to Windsor, 201 ; Prince Consort's tomb, 203 ; Mme. Tussaud's, 204 ; Crystal Palace, 206 ; balloons, 209 ; Albert Hall ; donkey picture, 210 ; St. Thomas's, 211 ; Duke of Argyll's ; bagpipes ; sword-dance ; telegraph, 212 ; Albert memorial ; Drury-Lane, 213 ; leave London, 214 ; reach Portsmouth ; embark in the "Rapide"; reach Cherbourg, 216.

Chapter V. Feance, Switzeeland ; 19 Days

Feance. Cherbourg, 218 ; Caen, 219 ; reach Paris, 220 ; Jardin d'Acclimatisation, 225 ; Bois de Boulogne, 226 ; Diplomatists, 227 ; Versailles, 228 ; group of Apollo, 229 ; Canrobert ; Palikao ; Due d'Aumale ; Prince de Joinville, 231 ; banquet, 232 ; the Invalides, 233 ; M. Cremieux ; M. de Rothschild, 236 ; M. Lesseps ; M. Nadar ; M. Tardieu, 237 : M. Larrey ; M. Cloquet ; M. Boure, 238 ; review, 239 ; races, 240 ; illumination and fireworks, 243 ; circus, 244 ; Louvre 246 : Panorama, 247 ; Notre Dame, 248 ; Ecole des Mines, 249 : Luxembourg, 250 ; Pantheon ; St. Sulpice ; Madeleine ; Palais Royal, 252 Mint, 253 ; river-baths, 254 ; Gobelins, 255 ; Louvre again, 256 Tuileries, 257 ; Sevres porcelain, 258 ; the Assemblee Nationale, 259 xvi Contents.

Jardin des Plantes, 261 ; party at the Elysee, 266 ; party at the

Foreign Office, 267 ; Vincennes, 268 ; Sisters of Charity's school,

269 ; Circus, 270 ; cafes chantants, 271 ; Jardin Mabille, 272 ; leave

Paris, 273 ; Dijon, 274.

Switzerland. Geneva, 277 ; Lake of Geneva, 279 ; Vevay ; King of

Holland, 281 ; excursion into Savoy; 283 ; banquet ; presents ;

museum, 285 ; M. Favre, 286 ; Swiss system, 287 ; leave Geneva, 288 : France again. Aix-les-Bains ; Chambery ; Modane ; Mont Cenis

tunnel, 289 ; Turin, 291 ; Royal Family; 293 ; Superga ; Synagogue,

Chapter VI. Italy ; Austria ; 19 Days

Italy. Turin Palace, 295 ; dinner-party ; royal presents, 296 ; theatre, 297 ; wild beasts, 298 ; illumination, &c, 299 ; the Countess di Mirafiori, 300 ; leave Turin, 301 ; reach Milan, 303 ; the Duomo, 304 : banquet ; illuminations, 306 ; leave Milan, 307 ; Lake of Garda ; Peschiera ; Verona, 308 ; Valley of the Adige ; Ala, 309.

Austria. Franzansvest, 310 ; Innsbruck, 311 ; Rosenheim ; Trauenstein ; Saltzburg, 312 ; Schonbrunn of Saltzburg, 314 ; Lintz, 317 ; Emperor at Penzing, 318 ; Laxenburg, 319 : Knight's Castle, 321 ; dinner at Schonbrunn of Vienna, 323 ; Exhibition, 325 ; shootingparty, 331 ; screw-pump, 334 ; opera, 335 ; review, 337 ; the Empress : evening party, 339 ; leave-taking, 341 ; King of Hanover, 342 ; Saltzburg, 343 ; Innsbruck, 346 ; Schelleberg ; Gossensasse, 347.

Italy again. Ala ; Verona, 348 ; Bologna, 349 ; leaning towers, 350 : theatre, 352 ; library and museum, 353 ; leave Bologna ; Rimini : Ancona, 355 ; Brindisi, 356 ; embark for Constantinople, 357 ; Corfu ; phosphorescence of the sea, 358 ; Cephalonia ; Zante ; Navarino ; Cape Matapan, 359 ; Cape Malea ; Cerigo ; Cape Sunium ; Zea, 360 ; Negropont ; Andros ; Psara ; Scio, 361.

Chapter VII. Turkey ; 11 Days

Tenedos ; Lemnos; Dardanelles, 363; Gallipoli ; Sea of Marmara, 366 ; Islambul sighted ; steamers and Persians, 367 ; Princes' Islands ; walls, 368 ; Seven Towers ; Seraglio Point, 370 ; Bosphorus ; Beyler-

Contents. xvii

Beyi ; the Sultan, 371 ; Palace of Beyler-Beyi, 372 ; Golden Horn, 37G ; receptions, 377 ; Gytik-Su, 378 ; breakfast at Chiragan palace,

380 ; Chamlija (erroneously called Mount Boulgourlou on the maps) ,

381 ; Prince Yusuf ; Aya-Sofiya, 382 ; Persian Mission ; state banquet at Beshik-Tash palace, 384 ; receptions ; trip to Princes' Islands, 386 ; Sultana-Mother's vineyard, 387 ; steamers, 388 ; conflagration ; palace of Chiragan, 389 ; gardens ; wild beasts, 390 ; bath, 391 ; conjurer, 392 ; visits of adieu, 395 ; leave for Poti, 396 ; accident to Eshref Pasha, 397 ; Sinope ; porpoises, 398 ; birds from the land ; Trebizond ; coming storm, 399.

Chapter VIII. Georgia ; Return ; 11 Days

Storm , 401 ; transhipment, 402 ; land at Poti ; Grand-Duke Michael, 403 ; Open-Heads, 404 ; railway ; Kutais, 405 ; Tiflis ; palace, 406 ; Grand-Duchess ; theatre, 409 ; storm at Poti, 410 ; Bahman Mirza, 411 ; banquet, 412 ; Tiflis to Baku, 413 ; Ganja, 414 ; Nizami's tomb, 416 ; Kur ferry, 417 ; Aq-Su— New Shamaka, 420 ; Shamakhi, 421 ; Baku, 423 ; embark, 424 ; storm for three days, 425 ; land at Enzeli, 427.

ILLUSTRATIONS.

POETRAIT OF THE SHAH FrontisjricCC.

(By kind permission of the Proprietors of the Graphic ne-wspaper.)

The Fan-Tail Posture in Dancing . . . . xviii

Monogram or Cypher of the Shah, As-Sultan Nasiru-'d- DIn Shah Qajar xx

The Chetr (Fan-tail) posture in Dancing.

(From a Persian painting.)

DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE.

IN THE NAME OF GOD, THE COMPASSIONATE, THE MERCIFUL !

PKELIMINAEY NOTICE.

HIS is a Diary of the Tour in Europe, which we propose to write in auspiciousness and sanctification, under the will of God most high, the All-powerful, the Matchless, the Forgiving, the Beneficent, provided that health be accorded us.

The details of the country between Tehran and Enzeli have been formerly given in the (account of my) journey to Gilan, and therefore require no further elucidation here. I will, however, under the Divine will, note down the facts

XX

Preliminary Notice.

attendant upon our leaving Tehran, our capital, and anything interesting that may occur on our road to EnzelL Subsequently to that, from the day of our embarkation on board ship, the detailed adventures of the company will be noted in the diary of the ship, with the help of God, and His merciful aid.

DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE

Chapter I. Tehran To Astrakhan ; 26 Days

ATURDAY, 21s* Safar, 1290 (a.h., i.e., 19th April, 1873). — We started from Tehran in the intention of prosecuting our tour in Europe. It is now a whole year since information was given of this (intended) tour in Europe ; and it is also some days that we have been suffering from a pain in the chest, and a severe cold in the head, so as to be very unwell, with sensations of fatigue and weakness ; to so great a degree, that I have never experienced the like before.

Placing my trust in God, however, I sallied forth from my private apartments, my Grand- Vazir, and others, being in waiting to receive me. We tarried awhile, and then started, mounting a carriage at the gate named Shamsu- 'l-'imara (Sun of the Palace). Crowds were assembled inside and outside the city, in the streets and roads, and elsewhere. We drove to the race-course, where to-day races were held. We went up into our pavilion. Masses- £,? B of soldiery, and of private people, men and women, were assembled. They served breakfast, of which I took a little, though without the least appetite. Our master of the horse, Timur Mirza, the Husamu-'d-Dawla (Prince Tlmur, the Keen Sword of the State), with Hajji Aqa Isma'Il, and others of our household, were in attendance. The Amm-i-Huzur (Lord Chamberlain, Comptroller of the Presence), who had been unwell for some days past, was to-day present on duty.

After breakfast, the horse-races took place. The liorses of Murad Beg, Na'ib (Lt. Murad, a Beg), which belong to the royal stables, carried off the four first flags. The horse of Wajihu-'l-'lah Mirza (Prince Wajihu- 1-'tah) carried off also a first flag. Iqbal Mahdi-quli Khan (Gentleman of the Chamber Mahdi-quli, a Khan) carried off the fourth flag in the last heat.

The races being concluded, the foreign representatives were admitted to an audience of adieu, the Grand- Vazir and other officials being present. We then mounted a carriage and drove to the village of Kan, where the new tents of figured and brocaded silks were pitched on the hank of a stream. After a while the " Royal Maternal Household " came to Kan, and I had an interview with the " Shah's mother," who remained there two days. A bitter wind was blowing.

Tuesday, 24th (Safar—22nd April).— Went to the royal palace at Kan ; and this same da}-, mounting a horse, went out shooting in the rising grounds around the village, the Prince Regent accompanying me, as well as several of the officers of my household. The Grand chap, l] Tehran to Astrakhan. 3

Huntsman had come out from town, and had found some game. Before breakfasting, I shot a buck of two years old, with slugs. Thanks be to God, all went off pleasantly, and I returned home in comfort. I am grateful that my health is perfectly restored, and no •sense of weakness remains. It is now the season of new green plums, which are still very small, and not fit to eat. Green almonds and blossoms on the trees are well-nigh over ; yellow and red roses are to be seen here and there. Mahdi-quli Khan went to town for one night, and came back unwell.

Wednesday, 25th (Safar — 23rd April). — Eemained at the palace of Kan. Dr. Tholozan, and several of those who are to accompany me to Europe, arrived to day from town.

Thursday, 26th (Safar — -2Uh April). — Proceeded to •Quru-Chay (Dry-Brook), where we breakfasted. The brook was much swollen. • Our chief photographer, and others of our attendants, were in waiting. Our sun-shade tent was pitched in a hollow, and the weather was very sultiy. At the time of afternoon worship we returned to our station at Kan. The Anisu-'d-Dawla (Familiar of Boyalty ; a harem lady) came from town, but somewhat in bad health.

Friday, 21th (Safar — 25th April). — We were at Kan in the morning. A vast concourse of officers of the household, and others, came from town, the Grand- Vazlr being among them. This day, Munlf Efendi, the Ottoman Envoy, who has newly arrived, is to be received in audience. In this, our first station, they have pitched our tents of figured silks, &c. Four hours and a half before sunset we went to our tent, to which the Grand- Vazir came. Five of our princes wore their swords at our levee. Thanks be to God, the wind is not blowing. The Envoy was introduced, with two Attaches ; the Charge-d' affaires, Nazim Efendi, came with him for his audience of leave, as he has to return to his own country. Munif Efendi speaks Persian and French, the former particularly well. He is of middle age. Asafu-'d- Dawla has arrived.

Saturday, 28th {Safar — 26th April). — In the morning we mounted, and proceeded on our journey to the pass of Sulgan, where there is a fine waterfall on the left-hand side of the road, with water to turn one mill. They pitched our sun-shade tent there, and we breakfasted in that spot. The Prince Regent was in attendance, and several other princes also.

Sunday, 29th {Safar — 27 th April). — To-day several princes and others, the colonel of a regiment of our guards, and our Secretary for Foreign Affairs also, though a convalescent from illness, came to our camp and were received. Munif Efendi, too, had another audience. Aqa Sayyid Isma'il, the jurisconsult, of Bihbihan, came to visit me. The Lord Treasurer brought out the jewelled regalia that are to be taken with us.

(Monday, 30th — 28th April, is not mentioned in the Diary.)

Tuesday 1st, Rahi'u-'l-aiuwal (Former Rdbi' — 29th April). — In the morning levee all the princes and others who had come out from town were received. The

£hap. i.] Tehran to Astrakhan. 5

Friday precentor of worship (a kind of equivalent to a bishop) came out and offered up a prayer for our journey. A son of the precentor of Ispahan also came. Five Arab horses, brought for the royal stables, were led past our presence, and reviewed ; and then we took our departure for Karj. On our road thither we were joined by the Grand- Vazir from town, who had good news from STstan (the ancient Ariana or Draugiana), which he submitted. The Dabiru-'l-Mulk (secretary of state), too, mounted on a tall Turkman horse, came out with the Grand- VazTr. The Prince Regent received permission to depart when not far distant from Kan, and returned to town. Several princes followed in our suite ; one returned to town from Quru-Chay. M. Beger, the Russian Envoy, who is to accompany us to Enzeli, was of our party. We arrived at Karj four hours before sunset. We lodged there in the palace. Several of our household, our chief photographer, and Dr. Tholozan, came from town. Mahdi-quli Khan went out shooting, and brought in a female antelope.

Wednesday, 2nd (30th Aiwil). — Proceeded from Karj to Qasim-abad, a distance of five leagues. Weather very sultry; dust excessive. One of our princes took leave and returned to the capital; our Grand Usher is to accompany us to Enzeli. Some join us from the capital; others, taking leave, return thither. The duty of acting ^as scouts and sentinels to our camp as far as Enzeli devolves upon the 2nd regiment. Our Chief Groom-in- ' Waiting, Biwak Khan, returned to town from Kan.

Thursday, 3rd (1st May). — In the morning mounted

6 Diary of a Totcr in Etcrope. [chap. i>

on horseback, many of our princes and officers riding in our suite. The Grand Usher had purchased sixty horses for the artillery of Azarbayjan (the ancient Atropatene) ; he passed them in review in our presence. A troop of cavalry of Makran (the ancient Gedrosia), commanded b} r Hajjl Aqa Beg, were also reviewed. We rode a certain portion of the way conversing with the Grand- Vazir ; after which we entered our carriage. Our station to-day is at Kazran-Sang, three leagues' journey. We breakfasted there, where the camp had been pitched in a beautiful meadow, where all was green and luxuriant. Sari- Asian (Yellow-Lion) came from town and was seen (by us).

Friday, 4th (2nd May). — Mounting our carriage early in the morning, we proceeded to 'Abdu-'l-'lah-abad, a distance of five leagues ; weather sultry ; dust abundant. On reaching the last outskirts of winter cultivation, we breakfasted ; but, in the first place, taking our fowlingpiece in hand, we sauntered about the environs, and shot a hare, a quail, and a yellow-hammer (or ortolan, lit., yellow-belly). This day I have seen Dr. Dickson ; and also Mr. Thomson, Secretary to the English Legation, who accompany me to Europe. Mirza 'Isa, governor of Tehran, and another official of state, with Mirza Musa, paymaster of the forces, took leave and returned to Tehran.

Saturday, 5t1i (3rd May). — To-day we arrive at Qazwln ; that is to say, they have pitched our camp at Hazar-Jarib (Thousand-acres), near that town. The distance to travel is five leagues. Passed the village of chap, i.] Telu'an to Astrakhan. 7

Khak-i-'AH (Ali's-lancl), and others. In the morning, as we mounted, the Grand- Vazir brought to the side of our carriage the Russian Envoy, with his interpreter, Grebel, and we had some converse with him. A body of about three hundred irregular cavalry of nomadic tribes was drawn out. The Registrar of Azarbayjan was received in audience. Lt. Muhammad- Sadiq Khan, of Qara-bag, his aide-de-camp, was with him. Several princes detained at Qazwin, several of the Doctors (of law and divinity), of the nobles and notables of the town, with the mayor and aldermen, &c, were presented to us in batches b}^ Ilkhani, the governor of the place. We breakfasted on the road ; and afterwards a violent wind set in. Our Chief Groom of the privy chamber, who had remained behind, now joined our party, having ridden post from the capital. The cavalry, under the command of Asad Khan, of Qara-bag, who is a member of the corps of couriers, had come out with the paymaster from Azarbayjan, on their way to the capital to be reviewed. The son of Asad Khan, who was in charge of them, is a nice youth. As we approached the town we mounted on horseback, and, conversing with the Grand-Vazir, we reached our camp. He, with our permission, went to the town. A cold and violent wind was blowing ; and, as we had passed the night before with very little sleep, we soon felt an inclination to take our repose.

Sunday, 6th (4th May). — To-day Aqa-Baba, is our station. It rained heavily in the morning ; and, though it had already rained a certain while, it poured down afresh. This rain was of great advantage to Qazwin.

% Diary of a Tour in Europe. [chap. i.

Ilkhani brought and presented to us Mirza Abu-Turab, uncle of the late Mirza Buzurg, the physician, a veryaged man. After this, mounting, we passed by the outskirts of the town in conversation with the Grand-Vazlr, and reached the high-road to Aqa-Baba. The Secretary •of State now left us to return to the capital. To-day, differently to what had hitherto been the case, the weather was pleasant, with a cool and refreshing breeze. The fields are one mass of verdure and blossoms. In the gardens of Qazwin we observed a species of thorn in bloom, with a flower like a yellow rose, very beautiful and pleasing. We gave orders that some roots and seeds thereof be taken to Tehran and there planted. We took our breakfast in our carriage below the village <of Mahmud-abad, so named after a late Shaykhu-'l- Islam. A bitter wind was blowing. Several of our courtiers were in attendance. We reached our quarters four hours to sunset, when an intensely cold wind was "blowing with great violence, so much so that it tore down all the canvas fences and tents, and continued the whole night. No one could go out of doors, and all were benumbed with cold, so as to be incapacitated for any service.

Monday, 1th (5th May). — Have to reach Kharzan ; but the cold wind and the frost is so intense, that even in the severest winter one does not see such, nor has such ever been heard of. We rode a couple of leagues in our carriage. Then, the road becoming very bad, we mounted on horseback and sent the carriages back. The country to-day is all verdant and in bloom ; but the frost conchap, i.] Tehran to Astrakhan. 9

linues so severe that one could not admire, or even notice, the beauty and freshness of the landscape. In spite of my having put on a coat and cloak lined with fur, the cold was so penetrating that it seemed as if I was devoid of all clothing. Below the pass of Kharzan there was ■a valley with but little water in its stream ; and there we breakfasted, several of my princes and officers, with Dr. Tholozan, being in attendance. After breakfast we ascended the defile. The mountain of Kharzan has no rocks or stones; it is all soft earth, and everywhere •covered with verdure, flowers, and odoriferous herbs. In many places we saw cultivation without the aid of irrigation. The tribe of Giyaswancl do the cultivation of this mountain. General Has an- 'Ali- Khan, one of those to accompany me, joined the party to-day. Conversing with the Grand- Vazir, we ascended the steep. At the top I saw a village, which I took to be Kharzan. On enquiry, it proved to be Isma'il-abad, lately erected and peopled bylsma'il Khan Giyaswancl, chief of the tribe of Giyaswancl. A beautiful spot has he populated, as its produce needs no irrigation. From thence we proceeded a league and a half to Kharzan. I saw some of our princes on the road, and spoke with them. They complained bitterly of last night's cold and wind, from which they had suffered much. Thanks be to God, we reached our station. There was then no wind, but a dense fog filled the air, with occasional showers of rain. The frost was so intense that the water froze as in winter.

Tuesday, 8th (6th M ay).— To-day we reach Lushan. Mounting our horse at daybreak, we set out chatting by io Diaiy of a Tour in Europe. [chap. i.

the way with the Grand-Vazlr, Ilkhani, and the Pajonaster (of Azarbayjan). The road hereabouts has been somewhat improved by order of the Government. Cultivation goes on in the valleys and on the hills. Mahdi-quli Khan had gone on ahead for a little sport after partridges,, and he mentioned having found the yellow jessamine in flower in all the valleys. We went over the whole of the ground that he had explored. They had erected our sun-shade tent. The Shah-rud (King River, which falls intothe Saf Id-rud at ManjTl,) was very full of water, and extremely turbid. Many of our princes and officers were present. Breakfast was served. One of the attendants on Prince Wajihu-'l-'lah Mirza, who had plunged into the Kufa branch of the Euphrates (when the Shah visited the sacred shrines of 'Ali and Husayn at Najaf and Kerbela in Babylonia), here also most bravely urged his horse into the stream. Truly it was an exhibition of courage. "We remained there till the middle of the afternoon, and then proceeded towards our station. Below the bridge I noticed two carriages, very elegant, which a merchant of Shirwan (in Georgia) was taking up to Tehran to sell. We reached our station at sundown. They had pitched our camp in a wide valley at a considerable distance from the bridge. Thanks be to God, there was no wind neither. The Grand- Vazir brought us some dispatches from the Mu'tamadu-'l-Mulk, which we read.

Wednesday, 9th (7 th May). — To-day we go to ManjlL We started earry in the morning on horseback. Prince Husamu-'s-'Saltana joined us from the road to Bakandi, which he has recently purchased, and to which he had chap, i.] Tehran to Astrakhan. i r

diverged from our camp at Aqa-baba. We journeyed on,, chatting with him, the Grand- Vazir, and Ilkhani. Contrary to what we had experienced for some days, the weather was warm, and the flies were numerous. The pathway was very bad, and we rode along out of the track until we reached the forest of Bala-bala. We reached the bank of the river at breakfast- time. At dawn to-day we had taken some quinine. After breakfast we again mounted and pushed on. During the journey we saw Mirza. Ibrahim Khan, Governor of Ralmiat-abad, Ni'matu-'l-'lah Khan of Rasht, and Nasru-'l-'lah Khan, a Talish-man from Gurgan-rud (on the Caspian). The cavalry of this latter chieftain were very well dressed and armed. Nearing our quarters, his Reverence the Mulla HajjT Rafi', a jurisconsult of Gilan, had an audience. As it was not possible to pitch our camp on the same spot as in our former visit, at the foot of the cypress of Harzabil, by reason of its having been laid under crops, we found it erected in a valley near to Manjil, sheltered from the wind. In spite of this precaution, a high wind arose in the afternoon. It is one of the wonders and singularities of nature, that in this valley, at all seasons of the year, a violent breeze sets in every afternoon, so impetuous, and with such force, that all the olive-trees growing there lean over in one direction, according as the blast has impelled them. The whole of the lands of Manjil and Harzabil are under cultivation, so that the countiy has an aspect of fertility and joy.

Yesterday a snake bit one of the tent-pitchers, and Dr. Tholozan treated him ; according to his report, the man's life is saved. Hereabouts snakes are very numerous (as was found by Marc Antony when he invaded the country).

Thursday, 10th (8th May). — Rustam-abad is our next station. We started rather later than usual, and journeyed on, conversing with the Grand- Vazir ; also we had an interview with Mulla RafP the jurisconsult at the foot of the bridge of Manjil, which spans the Safld-rud (White River), &nd over which they pass who journey to or from GTlan. Formerly there was a wooden bridge here, the passage over which was very difficult for caravans ; but a few years since a strong stone bridge has been built at the cost of the public exchequer, and under the superintendence of his Reverence HajjT Mulla Raf I*. His Reverence is in the same state of robust health that he enjo} T ed when we first saw him, eight years ago. Passing his bridge, we pushed on to FTl-dih (Elephant-village), and in the very spot where we had breakfasted several years before, in our journey to GTlan, did we take our morning's meal to-day. The oranges are in bloom, and the pomegranates have just done flowering. The length of to-day's journey fatigued me. We reached our quarters three hours to sunset, and found the tents pitched on the river-bank. As we journe} T ed to-day we saw mairy swimmers and bathers amusing themselves in the river, along which our road lay.