A Memphian's trip to Europe with Cook's educational party

Front matter

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Dedication

To Mr. THOMAS COOK, Sr.,

Of London, to whose liberality and kindness the Educational Party are much indebted for favors beyond their agreement, this Book is

KespectfuUy Dedicated by

Preface

What ! Another book of travels ? Yes ; and different from every other one that has ever been published.

On the 21st of June, 1873, there sailed from 'New York the steam-ships Victoria and Canada, with Cook's Educational Party, composed of about one hundred and seventy persons, from over twenty different States. The Victoria was bound for Glasgow, Scotland, the Canada for Liverpool, England. It fell to my lot to go on the Canada, leaving one hour after the Victoria.

Having been solicited by the editor of the Memphis Avalanche to write sketches of our trip, I complied with his request, writing hastily, as I only could under the circumstances. Having been requested by many — in whose judgment I have confidence — to publish them in book-form, I concluded to get the letters of several other gentlemen, who wrote for other papers, and publish them all together. They are from prominent ministers of the Presbyterian, Baptist, and Methodist Churches — and some from ladies — all of our party, though belonging to

6 Preface.

different sections, into which we divided at London. By this arrangement we saw more of the country, thus giving more variety and interest to them. The Presbyterians can see what the Rev. T. W. Hooper, of Lynchburg, Ya., has to say of Europe ; the Baptists can read what the Eev. A. B. Whipple, of !N"ew York, says; while the Methodists can read how Pev. C. W. Gushing, of Massachusetts, tells what he saw. The writer gives a running sketch of how he saw things.

These gentlemen are presidents of institutions of learning, and capable, as will be seen, of presenting what came under their observation in an attractive, instructive, and entertaining style.

Since my return, I have, from very extensive memoranda taken at Rome, and Augustus Hare's " Walks in Rome," written up some articles on the "Eternal City." These will come in at their proper place with the entire series, so that there will be all said by each of us about places and things before we leave them. It has been our intention to take the reader along with us, and let him see things as we saw them, without the labor and expense necessarily attending such a trip.

Hoping that those who follow us through will be amply compensated for their time, and learn something more of the country, places, things, and people which we visited, that will interest them,

I am truly theirs,

SAMUEL WATSOK

Chapter I. Page

A Memphian's trip from New York to Liverpool and London — An ocean voyage — England's great port — London and the Shah — A day among the London churches, and amid the tombs of the great dead— Off for the Continent — Taking a look at London . .11

Chapter II

Letters from the Eev. T. W. Hooper. 1. From Lynchburg to New York. 2. Life on the ocean. 3. Moville — Griant's Causeway — Glasgow. 4. Edinburgh — Speech-making — Scott's home 39

CHAPTEE III.

Letters from the Eev. A. B. Whipple. 1. Adieu — Victoria — Time and keeping speed. 2. Emerald Isle — Cars — ■ Dunluce Castle — Origin of Giant's Causeway. 3. Clyde — Ship-building — Glasgow Cathedral — Monuments — Trosachs. 4. Edinburgh — Eoute to London — Hospitality — Adventures 56

CHAPTEE IV.

Letter from Miss Hattie Stanard — Eoute to New York — Ship-life — Sabbath services — How time is kept — Londonderry — Portrush — Dunluce Castle — Adam Clarke's

monument 71

8 Contents.

CHAPTEE Y.

PAGE

Letters from the Eev. C. W. Gushing — Scottish preaching, etc. — Contrast between a Sabbath in Edinburgh and in Cologne 78

CHAPTEE VI.

The American Educational Party in Edinburgh — Commencement of Cook's tours — Speeches by Dr. Donaldson, Rev. T. D. Witherspoon, Eev. Professor Cushing, Lord Provost,, and Mr. Cook ...... 83

CHAPTEE VII.

A trip from London to Antwerp — A look about the ancient city — Sights and impressions in Belgium and Grermany — Experience in Brussels and Cologne — Habits and occupation of the people — The great Cathedral and other objects of interest — From Cologne to Munich — The Rhine and its marvelous beauties — How railroads are run in Germany — The people and their habits — A day in Mayence — Guttenberg's statue — Munich and its attractions, etc. — From Munich to Vienna — Notes by the wayside — The Austrian capital and the Exposition — Sights and improvements — Condition of the people of Europe — Something for Americans to think about — Some of the features of the great Exposition — Sights and sight-seers 96

CHAPTEE VIII.

Letters from the Rev. T. W. Hooper. 1. Zurich — Luther — Calvin — Paintings — Statue of Bavaria. 2. Vienna Exposition — Home things. 3. Tombs of royalty — Gathering rocks, and a hasty retreat. 4. Down the Rhine — Cologne Cathedral — St. Ursula — Brussels lace-factories. 125

CHAPTEE IX.

Letters'from the Rev. A. B. Whipple. 1. Antwerp — Brussels — Carved pulpit — Royal palace — Parks — Museum — Cologne Cathedral — Sunday. 2. University — Rhine scenery — Castles — Villages — Mayence — Munich — Palace of the king — Statue of Bavaria. 3. Vienna cordiality — Exposition building ....... 143

Contents.

CHAPTEE X.

FAOE

Letter from the Rev. C. W. Gushing. Vienna — Churches — Exposition — Reflections upon them . . . .158

CHAPTEE XI.

Letter from Miss Hattie Stanard. Munich — Vienna — Mayence — Down the Rhine — Cologne — Brussels . . 163

CHAPTEE XII.

"Beautiful Venice" — An Avalanche correspondent in the City of the Sea — From Austria to Italy — Highly romantic scenery — Sights and^ impressions in Venice — The art galleries and and the royal palace — Characteristics of the Italians — Among the gondoliers, etc. — From Venice to Florence — Observations by the wayside — The ruins and beauties of Italy — The Eternal City — What a Memphian saw in Rome — Scenes on the banks of the Tiber — The great Cathedral — Statuary, paintings, etc. — Capitol statues — Hall of Emperors — Hall of illustrious men — Historic prison — Palaces of Augustus, Palatine, Nero — Church of St. Clement — The Forums and the Coliseum — The Catacombs — St. Agnes — The Santa Scala — Roman Funeral — The Pantheon — St. Peter's — The Vatican — Sistine Chapel — Michael Angelo — Leaving the city 171

CHAPTEE XIII.

Letters from the Rev. A. B. Whipple. 1. Description of Venice — St. Mark's Church. 2. Rome — History — First Basilica — Pantheon — Baths — Latin Rome. Letter from the Rev. C. W. Cushing. Professor Wood — Palaces of the Cesars — Great Circus — Baths — Coliseum — Palace of Nero— Church of St. Clement 222

CHAPTEE XIY.

Switzerland — From Rome to Geneva — Scenes by the wayside — The indescribable splendor of the Alps — On the shores of Lake Geneva — Picturesque Switzerland— The watches and music-boxes of Geneva — Rambles afoot — Beautiful Perne — The Swiss love of home — Life and

10 Contents.

PAGE habits of the Bernese — The wonderful clock of 1191 — The Lake of Geneva — Three thousand feet high — The illuminated falls at Interlachen — Seas of ice — The Bernese Alps — Up among the coolness of Switzerland in August — Top , of the Alps — A view of three hundred miles from Rigi — One of Nature's grandest displays — Romantic Switzerland- — Impressions of the most interesting country in Europe — An amusing dinner-table experience — The need of an interpreter — Sketch of Lucerne — William Tell — A mountain railroad — Farewell, Switzerland — Letters from the Rev. T. W. Hooper — Letter from the Rev. A. B. Whipple .... 240

CHAPTER XV.

"Paris is France" — Views in the wicked, beautiful city — Strolls in historic localities, some of which have been baptized in the blood of saint and sinner — Lingering in Paris — Sight-seeing in the finest city in the world — Versailles and its antique remains of royalty — The Tuileries — Pantheon — S^ Cloud — Grobelin — Farewell to France — Back in London — Dr. Cummings — Billingsgate — The Tower — The docks and the shipping — Letter from the Rev. T. W. Hooper — Letter from the Rev. A. B. Whipple 278

CHAPTER XYI.

Loitering in London — Prince Albert's memorial monument — Description of its beauties, its grandeur, audits sculpture — Letters from the Rev. A. B. Whipple — Letters from the Rev. T. W. Hooper — Homeward bound — From London to Edinburgh — Interesting sights in the Scottish capital — Castle Rock — Burns' s grave — Mary Queen of Scots — Dr. Chalmers — Bunyan — The rolling deep — Leaving Glasgow, the prosperous city on the Clyde — The pleasures and misfortunes of a life of ten days on the ocean wave 303

A MEMPHIAN'S TRIP TO EUROPE.

CHAPTER I.

LETTEE 1.

Bev. Samuel Watson's trip from New York to Liverpool and London — An ocean voyage — England's great port — London and the Shah.

Steamer Canada ]

{Approachi7ig Queenstoivn, Ireland), > July 2, 1873. J ON THE BILLOWS.

Editor Avalanche : — Having promised to write you " semi-occasionally" during my European tour, I drop you a few lines, to be mailed at Queenstown.

We left 'New York on Saturday, 21st of June. The weather has been fine ; consequently the sea has been very quiet, except on last Saturday, when we had quite a gale nearly all day. It was the grandest, the most sublime, scene I ever witnessed. The ocean seemed to rise up like hills, while the noble ship rode them like a thing of life, now on the summit, then in the valley between, playing sad havoc with the movables on board. At dinner there wasagreat deal of commotion, not only among the dishes, but the people were tossed to and fro, to the amusement of all but those who were the sufferers.

There is much less danger than is generally supposed in crossing the ocean. Facts and figures show that there are fewer lives lost at sea, in proportion to the number of passengers, than by any other mode of traveling. Take, for instance, this line, the " ]N"ational." They have been running for ten years, have twelve ships, have carried over 300,000 passengers, and have never lost a ship or a man. The Cunard line has been in operation for about thirt}^ years, and has never lost a passenger. Where can such safety be found on any of our thoroughfares of travel ? A trip across the ocean, with a calm sea, is a very monotonous affair. We eat, and read, and sleep, to rise and eat and read again.

By the way, I do n't fancy the English style of eating. They breakfast at 8J, lunch at 12J, dine at 4, which takes one hour and a half, tea at 7. Their roast beef, the boast of the Englishman, has too much blood remaining in it for me. I will inclose a bill of fare, by which you can see the style of English living on the ocean. I would greatly prefer a modification of quantity, quality, and a great reduction in the time consumed in disposing of it. But so it is, in "Rome, we must do as Rome does." The most exciting time we have had has been when a large number of whales were seen. They spout a large stream of water up some distance in the air, then throw themselves nearly out of the water, and seeming to be as anxious to show themselves as we were to see them. We have seen the sea-lions, porpoises, etc., sporting amid the ocean's waves. It has been quite cold for several days, so much so that flannel and winter clothes would not keep us warm on deck.

I am pleasantly located near "midship," close to the Captain's room. My room-mates are Mr. B. A. Rogers, of Yerona, Miss. ; Capt. John Deering, of Covington, Tenn. ; and Mr. A. S. Elliott, of Huntsville, Ala. Our ship is about 400 feet long, 40 wide, and 41 deep. She was 23 feet under water when we left 'New York, but she is somewhat lighter now, as

On the Billows. 13

we consume about forty tons of coal per day. She has the compound engine, or, more properly, two engines — one of the low, the other high pressure. This is a most important discovery for steam navigation. The coal now consumed by this recent discovery is only about one-third of what it was by using only one engine; hence the expense is greatly reduced, besides giving the tonnage for freight previously required for coal. It is to be hoped that Americans will now build ocean steamers and save to our country some of the countless millions paid to other nations for this service. Philadelphia has commenced two lines of steam-ships to Liverpool, and has built her own vessels. The success of the experiment has been of the most satisfactory character. We have seen quite a number of ships, but not near enough to any of them to speak, only by the "signal rocket" sent up, which is a nautical language I have not yet learned.

We have a nice lot of passengers, representing several nationalities and churches. There are six ministers, some of whom will go with us through Europe. We have had services both Sabbaths, the traveling ministers officiating.

We are anxious to see land again. To be out on the "ocean's wave" for ten or twelve days, pent up in a small room, to sleep in a berth but little longer than your body, is not calculated to impress one very favorably with a sea-faring life. Our trip has been a very pleasant one thus far, and we hope to-morrow to arrive at Liverpool, the great " Cottonopolis" of the world. I will, from time to time, as I may have opportunity, dot down whatever I may think will interest your readers, as I pass on from place to place with the rapidity indicated by the inclosed programme.

P. S. — We are now sailing along the Irish coast, the hills of "sweet Ireland" coming down to the water's edge, and saying to the surging waves, Thu^ far shalt thou come and no farther. There was much excitement this morning when the steersman announced land in sight. We all rejoiced, but especially those who had been long absent from their native land. Their joy was manifested in various ways. We will soon be at Queenstown, where this will be mailed. We expect to arrive at Liverpool to-morrow, but remain till next day for the daylight to see over 200 miles of merry Old England to London, from whence you may hear from me again.

ASHORE AT LAST.

Liverpool, July 2, 1873.

We arrived at this great sea-port yesterday, having oeen twelve days out from New York. Though I wrote you yesterday from Queenstown, I will drop you a few lines before leaving for London, which we will do early in the morning.

It is said that the trade of the whole world concentrates at this, the largest sea-port on the globe. We look to the cotton market here with much interest in the South.

The docks are the most costly and extensive of any in the world. They are six miles in extent, and cost from eighty-five to one hundred millions of dollars. The Sanden docks are immense basins, like those in the navy-yards of Brooklyn and Charleston, for the floating in of vessels for repairs, closing and pumping out till the hulls are left dry for the workmen. The others are commercial docks, rendered necessary from the immense height to which the tide rises — it being from 18 to 30 feet. These docks are constructed out of Scotch orranite and iron.

o

They are immense canal locks, with swinging gates, closed so as to retain the water and keep the vessel afloat while discharging. They are moved by ma-

Ashore at Last. 15

chinery. These gates are never allowed to be open except at near high tide.

There are to be seen vessels from all nations lying in dock — each showing its nationality.

The weather to-day has been very cold, with rain and wind, which prevented our seeing as much as I desired while we ascended the river Mersey. The rocky headland of Holyhead of "Wales, with its strange clift and bridged rock, its white light-house, and the wonderful breakwater defending the harbor. Then comes the Welsh lands, with thrifty farms, and neat farm-houses and windmills. Behind these the fair Welsh mountains rise, the Snowdon, said to be the highest in the south-west of Great Britain, but they looked small compared to the mountains we pass over coming to New York. Little Welsh villages, nestled at the feet of these highlands, present a beautiful view. Three magnificent steam-ships passed near us, crowded with passengers for America. But I am going back in my scrawl. I must let the ocean trip pass. Though it has been a pleasant one, yet I never wanted to close up one so much as I have this, my first ocean voyage. Long will I remember the Canada and its worthy officers. But other things crowd upon my mind on terra firma. Liverpool has been in a state of excitement about the visit of the Shah of Persia. The papers are filled with accounts of his visit here. It is said he had six wives with him, but as he was visiting a nation which did not recognize but one, he only took one of them with him in public.

What folly this man- worship is ! I am glad I feel no inclination in that direction. I expect to see much of it before my return, but I have no idea of imbibing any of it, either politically or ecclesiastically.

The buildings for some distance from the wharf are large and fine, and those over the city generally are three stories only, and look rather antiquated; but there are some magniiicent buildins^s here — the largest I ever saw. Most prominent is St. George's Hall, one of the most magnificent structures in the world. We went to see it; and here is the largest organ in the country. In frontof it stand the statues of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, each on a very large horse. On the former is this inscription : "Erected by the Corporation of Liverpool, in the thirty-fourth year of her reign." Over the latter: "This statue of a wise and good prince is erected by the Corporation of Liverpool, October, 1866. Albert, Prince Consort, born 1819; died 1861." At the north end, standing on a high column, is the statue of Wellington, and the battles he fought and won engraved on the base. Inside the hall are the marble statues of quite a number of England's great men. I felt the most interest in Sir Robert Peel and Mr. Gladstone. We have hurried over the city in several directions, and seen most of it, and hasten to take the train for London, of which you shall hear by and by.

( LETTEE 2,

Another interesting letter from Eev. Samuel Watson — A day among London churches and amid tombs of the great dead— Off for the Continent.

London, July 7, 1873.

We left Liverpool early on the 4th for this city. For many miles we passed through what is properly called the " manufacturing district." The tall chimneys and immense buildings which could be seen all over the country, filled with machinery, told the secret of England's greatness. Those nearest Liverpool, judging from the number of cotton bales and

In the Great City. 17

cotton macliinery we saw, were for manufacturing cotton goods. Then comes a broken agricultural district, after which silk, hosiery, and other manufactories. I have never seen, nor will I ever see again, such a country as this. All the waj^ every spot of ground showed the evidences of what man had done for it. Cities, towns, villages, gardens, meadows, cut up in all sorts of shapes and sizes (except large ones), divided by their hawthorn hedges, and covered with herds of cattle, sheep, etc., defy description. I shall not attempt it. Paradise, no doubt, was more lovely, but this excels anything I have ever seen. Our conductor, Mr. Anderson, who met us at Liverpool, was born here, and pointed out many places of interest. None more so than Derby, where Bunyan was born and imprisoned for twelve years, and where the "Pilgrim's Progress" was written.

England is proverbial for showers. It happened that as we were landing a heavy rain came on, very much to the discomfort of the passengers, who had to embark on another boat to reach the shore. I heard a remark made which I did not then appreciate as much as subsequently: that it was a pity that the first boat for that purpose had not been made with a roof. If it had been, all of them would have been made after that model.

In the Great City. — About 3 o'clock we arrived at London, walked out of the cars (as we call them, but "carriages" here), in the rear entrance of the Midland Grand Hotel. It is the largest, and when completed, will be the most magnificent hotel I ever saw. Dinner over, we go to Cook's, Fleet street, to report ourselves. From here we go to call on the United States Minister to see if we can get into Parliament. He received us kindly, and after some time spent pleasantly, told us he would see by next day, as he was authorized to give but two permits a day, and that there were so many Americans now here that he feared there was no chance for us daring our brief stay in the city. St. James's Park was next visited. Something over a mile, at Buckingham Palace (the Queen's present residence), we see a vast crowd of people, and learn that the Shah, of whom I spoke in my last letter, is to attend the Opera, and will, with the royal family, in state, pass out. ^Notwithstanding my opinion expressed in my last letter, I resolved to see all of it that could be seen, even at some discomfort. We wait. The crowd thickens and spreads over the vast grounds; the police can hardly keep the way open for the carriages. After about two hours out they came. Fortunately, our position was on the margin of the open way. We saw all we could, but did not discover that kings and queens (prospective) are different from other people, only in their external trappings. I was surprised to find the thousands that were gathered there so anxious to see them. There is a magic charm in royalty to those who are governed by it. As this was my first, and may be my last chance, to be a "looker-on," I was glad to embrace it in this best phase of monarchy. Saturday we visit the financial portion of the city. Wall street seems but a small affair compared to this world's heart of money-power. The Bank of England covers eight acres, while other moneyed institutions cover over a large portion of this part of the city.

On the Rounds. — The Westminster Abbey, the place where sleeps the remains of the sovereigns and great men of the nation for hundreds of years, is the most solemn, grand, and impressive place I ever entered. We paid our fee to go round with one of the guides, who gave a synopsis of many who rest there, embracing an epitome of England's history for hundreds of years.

We got permission, and go through the Parliament

Hearing and Seeing Spurgeon. 19

buildings and look at the statues of many men whom the nation delight to honor. Of some of these I may speak at some future time ; also of the Abbey. We go to the office of the United States Legation — but one ticket to the House of Lords can be given, and I am the fortunate recipient. I go on Tuesday, at 5 P.M., when they meet.

After dinner we take a trip on the underground railroad. Notwithstanding the millions on the surface, traveling, they seem to be as crowded on the cars under the ground. At the crossing of some of the streets steps go down, and regular stations for passengers to get on and off. There are many of these running through and around the city; others traverse it in the air. On our return we take the top of a street-car, and go several miles to its terminus, and walk several more to London Cemetery, overlooking the city — said to be the highest point in the vicinity. The monuments are of a previous age, mostly. The prospective is grand for many miles around.

This has been a busy day of intense interest, to which I shall look back with pleasure, and may at some time say something more about it.

Hearing and Seeing Spurgeon. — Mr. Spurgeon is the great attraction here. Every one of our party, indeed all the Americans at the hotel, go to hear him. He is a truly great man. I took notes of his sermon, but this is not the place for them. The sermon was one of the plainest, most evangelical, and spiritual, I ever listened to. He had been absent about a month, as he said, in the only forest in England. He seems to be over forty; but one of his members told me he was only thirty-three, and that he was about five feet six or eight inches in height. He opened his service with prayer, then singing, he giving out a verse at a time; then read and commented on several passages of Scripture;

then singing and prayer; singing and sermon. His church is of a circular form, with two galleries extending all around, he standing on a circular platform about the height of the first gallery. It holds between 7,000 and 8,000 people, and was filled, as usual.

Among the Tombs. — We then went toWesley Chapel and to City Road Methodist Church, where lie the remains of John Wesley and Dr. Adam Clarke, side by side. On the monument erected to the former is this inscription: "To the memory of the venerable John Wesley, A.M., late Fellow of Lincoln College, Oxford ; died March 2, 1791, aged 8« years." On the latter; "Sacred to the memory of Adam Clarke, LL.D., A.S., who rested from his labors August 26, 1832." Then comes the tomb of Kichard Watson, with this: "Sacred to the memory of Rev. Richard Watson, who died in the Lord January 8, 1833, in the 52d year of his age — a man no more distinguished for admirable endowment of his mind than for the depth of his piety, the fervor of his zeal, and the constancy of his powerful genius to the service of God in His sanctuary, and the spiritual interests of mankind." Here sleep the remains of many distinguished Methodist preachers. Dr. Bunting was the last one buried here — June 16, 1858. I copy the inscription of Wesley's mother:

"Here lies the body of Mrs. Susanna Wesley, widow of Rev. Samuel Wesley, M. A., late Rector of Epworth, in Lincolnshire, who died July 23, 1742, aged 72 years. She was the youngest daughter of the Rev. Samuel Annesley, D.D., ejected by the Act of Uniformity from the Rectory of St. Giles's Cripplegate, August 24, 1662. She was the mother of nineteen children, of whom the most eminent were the Revs. John and Charles Wesley, the former of whom was, under God, founder of the Society called Methodists.

John "Wesley. 21

" In sure and certain hope to rise, And claim her mansion in the skies ; A Christian here, her flesh laid down, The cross exchanging for a crown."

There, on the opposite side of the street, are many whose names are as household words with us. Prominent among these is John Bunjan, whose " Pilgrim's Progress " has perhaps been more extensively read than any book except the Bible. In marble he lies on top of his tomb, on one side of which his sins press on his back, as a large weight. On the other side they are gone — very impressive.

John Wesley. — It was here, in this chapel, that John Wesley preached, and near it he lived and died. It was, and is, the center of Methodism. There are now two parsonages here, in which the preachers live who are on this circuit; for this is still their plan. In one of these Benson wrote his "Commentary." They have a number of class-rooms in the basement, in which they were having meetings when we were there. They still adhere to the plan of small classes. The chapel is one of the largest, with a box pulpit hung up, I know not how far, though it has been lowered five feet. I felt that I was standing in a holy place, where Mr. "Wesley had so often preached, and where he commenced an organization now more numerous than any other Protestant Church. After spending a long time with the preachers and people there, learning all I could, we went to hear the same preacher who preached there in the '^ Goshetten." I judge it to be a hard vicinity, from what I saw. Street-singing and exhortation, perhaps preaching, is kept up here as in olden times. We stopped a while at several such places, day and night. But I must not dwell longer in this detail.