A woman's experiences in Europe

Front matter

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C

Chapter I. Preliminary

PAGB

Inducements to Travel. Object of a Lone Voyage. Objections Answered 13

CHAPTER n.

THE VOYAGE.

Friendly Advice. My own Adviser. Off at Last. A New and Valuable Acquaintance. Stormy Sea and Peaceful Company 19

CHAPTER ni.

IN PORT.

Off Falmouth. Frigid Reception from John Bull. Illumination of the Cliffs. Entering the Port of Havre. A Gala-Night in a French City . . . . . . . . . 29

CHAPTER IV.

ALONE IN PARIS.

Where to find " Distraction." How to " catch" the Language. Illustration. How to stop a Train in France. Express from Havre to Paris. Alone . . . . . . '34

v

VX CONTENTS.

CHAPTER V.

CITY OF THE NAPOLEONS.

PAGE

A French Welcome. First Lesson in French Laws. Madame and Monsieur at Home ...... .42

CHAPTER VI.

FIRST VIEWS OF THE CITY.

Pantomimic Exhibition of Imperial Policy by Juvenile Frenchmen. A Cafe, A Russian Wedding at the Greek Church . 49

CHAPTER Vn.

EUGENIE AND THE PRINCESS MATHILDE.

Popularity of the Emj)ress. Study of National Characteristics • in a Parisian Salon, American Journalism versus French Policy. An Emperor's Visit to an Emperor. Grand Review on the Champs de Mars 59

CHAPTER Vni.

"PARIS ABOVE AND BELOW GROUND.

Pantheon — Exterior, Interior, Cupola, and Caves. Through the Sewers by Rail and Boat. The Conciergerie . . .73

CHAPTER IX.

MR. EDWARD DELAVAN AND NAPOLEON III.

Problematic Questions of French Policy. A Franco - Italian Comedy with a Spanish Heroine. Napoleon's Reception of a Temperance Proposition. An American Tavern in Paris . 81

CONTENTS. Vll

CHAPTER X.

MID-LENT AMUSEMENTS IN PARIS.

PAGE

Diet. Masquerade at the Grand Opera-House. Schneider on the Champs Elysees. Neillson and Hamlet. Theatres and Opera Comique. The Fran^ais ; Best Acting, Best Dressing in the World. Patti at The Italiens ; Queen of Spain, Prince of Wales in Royal Boxes. Death of Rossini. Imperial Conservatory of Music. Lord Lyon's Ball at the Grand Hotel. Spring Fetes in Rural Districts 93

CHAPTER XL

woman's work in FRANCE.

A Parisian Millinery and Flower Establishment. Curious Customs. Practical Zoology. Government Menageries. Spring Salon at the Palais de 1' Industrie. American Artists and French Inspectors . . . . . , , .110

CHAPTER XII.

FUNERAL CUSTOMS, AND MONUMENTS.

Pere la Chaise on All-Saints' Day. The Madeleine en Deuil. Josephine's Tomb. French Frosts. Resolve to leave Paris . 121

CHAPTER XIII.

A SOLITARY JOURNEY.

King John of Saxony. Night Express through Germany in a Snow Storm. On the Prussian Frontiers. Cologne. Dresden at Midnight. A Ludicrous Mistake and its Consequences 128

CHAPTER XIV.

DRESDEN.

Germans Non-progressive in Employments of Women. Smoke Concerts. Operas . ", '. '. . , . . 141

Vlll CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XV.

CHRISTMAS EVE IN A GERMAN CITY.

PAGE

Holiday Booths. Midnight Mass at the Court Church. Skating in the Grosser Garten. Dresden Art Gallery . . .151

CHAPTER XVI.

GREEN VAULTS AND MEISSEN FACTORY.

Treasures of Saxony. Porcelain Manufacture and Painting. How American Purses buy Geraian Titles. Presentation Ceremonies at the Dresden Court 162

CHAPTER XVn.

A WINTER JOURNEY THROUGH BOHEMIA.

An Agreeable Surprise at the Station. Prague; its Relics. Arrival at Vienna 172

CHAPTER XVni.

VIENNA.

Pedro. Art Galleries. Churches. Canova. Maria Theresa. Imperial Women's Hospital and Nursery . . . .180

CHAPTER XIX.

IMPERIAL ENTERTAINMENTS.

Emperor of Austria and Trovatore. Flick and Flock. Taglioni's Interpretation of the Poetry of Motion. A Sultan's Reward. Geistinger and the Grand Duchess. Sudden Departure from Vienna . . . . . . . . .190

CONTENTS. IX

CHAPTER XX.

AVALANCHE ON THE STYRIAN ALPS.

PACK

Ascending the Soemmering. An Avalanche. Wonderful Engineering over the Alps. The Cloud-King's Palace. Men, Women, and Children, with Shovel and Spade, emerge from the Avalanche. Alpine Violets. Night on the Mountains. Arrival at Gratz 195

CHAPTER XXI.

VENICE.

Arrival at Midnight. Moonlight on the Grand Canal. San Marco. A Visit to San Andrea at Night .... 201

CHAPTER XXn.

VENICE.

Architecture. Peculiar Manufactories. Greek Convent. Byron at St. Lazare. Dinorah and Venetian Ballet . . . 207

CHAPTER XXni.

JOURNEY TO ROME.

Florence. How we went to Pisa. Rome. St. Peter's. Friar Tuck and his Relic 211

CHAPTER XXIV.

ROME FROM THE PINCIO.

Sunday in Rome. The Pincian Gardens. A Trip to Tivoli. Falls of the Anio. Somnambulistic Promenade through Adrian's Villa. Rapid Return to Rome. Gates Open . . 218

X

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXV.

THE CATACOMBS.

PAGB

Ilome-sick. A Day's Adventures. The Catacombs of St. Sebastian. ' Footprints of our Saviour. A Strange Superstition , . . . , . . . . . . 232

CHAPTER XXVI.

VESUVIUS.

The Volcano in Active Eruption. Trip to Naples. Vesuvius in Death-throes. Explosions. Ascent of the Mountain. Bay of Naples at Night 243

CHAPTER XXVn.

THE CARNIVAL.

Picnic to Pompeii. Campania Felix. Descent into Herculaneum. A Lone Female in a Deserted City. Pompeii, the Despair of Reporters. Back to Rome. The Carnival . .251

CHAPTER XXVni.

AMERICAN ARTISTS IN ROME.

Miss Cushman's Reception. Abbe Liszt's Hack-Authoi-ship. Studio of Mr. Reade. Messrs. Hazeltine's Works. Miss Stebbins and the New Fountain for Central Park of New York 259

' CHAPTER XXIX.

FROM CIVITA VECCHIA TO LONDON.

Coasting on the Mediterranean. Marseilles. Paris. A Trip to London .......... 269

CONTENTS. XI

CHAPTER XXX.

LONDON CHURCHES.

FAGB

Weigh House Chapel. Rev. Thomas Bmney and his Peculiarities. Newman Hall's Account of American Servantism . 275

CHAPTER XXXI.

AN AMUSING COLLISION.

Dr. Holland; Damiani. Washington, Baltimore, and other Journalists. English Notes versus American Notes. Charles Dickens at Home . 280

CHAPTER XXXH.

WATER IN LONDON.

Baths ; Sewerage System ; Wash-Houses. The Holborn Union. " Les Miserables." A Convict's Satire 288

CHAPTER XXXHI.

WINE VAULTS UNDER LONDON DOCKS.

Entrance to Vaults. « Lamps " on Duty. Old Port. Tasting Nos. 000 and 000 298

CHAPTER XXXIV.

LONDON.

English Ideas of American Journalism. Modified after an Impartial Reading 3^2

ADIEU 315 i

A

WOMAN'S EXPERIENCES

IN EUROPE.

CHAPTER I.

PRELIMINARY.

SEVERAL years since, a pleasant duty devolved on the recorder of these Experiences. Bayard Taylor presented eight volumes of his books of travel to the American public ; and while the critics of daily journals were thrown into a state of despair, the monthly and quarterly reviewers roamed and ruminated in the wide pastures spread out in thirty-five hundred pages, at their own free — if sometimes fastidious — will. I was just recovering from a severe illness, and a kind friend sent me the complete set of " Prose Writings," in green and gold. When they were all laid on my bed, I felt that I was literally lying down in green pastures. I was not supposed to have the strength to more than amuse myself for an hour or two with reading ; but stimulated to the undertaking by an indomitable passion for pictures of travel, and finding them glowing with the hues afforded by a rich imagination, there was no limit to my enjoyment till I arrived at the last page of the last volume.

Little did I suspect that for each page I would one day measure miles of my own wanderings in the Old World alone !

Without any idea of doing justice to Mr. Taylor's works, I wrote a congestion of my views of them for the Presbyterian Quarterly Review; and to show how I was affected, and would myself wish to affect my readers, I will quote a paragraph from the Review.

" While we admire the correct pictures of places familiar to us, we are also impressed with the truth of the author's descriptions of the most remote, and hitherto unexplored, regions, and our mind goes out after the great man in his wanderings, inspired by his own love of adventure, till we can hardly realize we are only fireside travellers enjoying at our ease the fruits of his industry and genius,"

Am I 2i^diXQ.^?AXi^ 2. fireside U'aveller — perhaps an invalid ? Then this bread cast upon the waters will come back sweeter to me, having afforded food for' pleasant reflection to any such prisoner, and having relieved the tedium of a convalescent room. To such readers, I repeat the assurance, that while my " travelled brain " is weaving pictures for their vision, my "untravelled heart" can respond to every emotion

PRELIMINARY. I5

awakened or calmed by the suggestions offered from my own experiences.

The first question my readers will naturally ask is one that I have heard repeated till I am quite used to it. What object could induce a woman to travel so far alone ? Many of my readers are already familiar with my favorite motto : " War not with necessity." It was not to gratify the desire for travel, that was with Ida Pfeiffer an inborn propensity. It was not even a matter of choice with me. A crisis in my life had come when I must face the world alone and resolve bravely to meet all exigencies of fate or fortune, or succumb to a crushing sorrow, and, with paralyzed energies, prove a sorry burden to those who had a right to claim my interest in their wellbeing. God gave me strength to resolve wisely. I left every friend who knew my sorrow, and, in the Old World, away from all reminding sympathy, I conquered myself, and returned home with materials for zuork — better than any medicine ; and for the profit and amusement I afford to others I am a thousand-fold repaid in the pleasing task of communicating what I saw and felt in my wanderings.

My first task, after I had determined to enter upon new scenes, and so distract brooding thoughts, that threatened to enslave my mind, Avas to " screw my courage to the sticking-place." I had heard dismal reports of insults and hardships to which females travelling in Europe were liable. Many of my friends, in remonstrating with m.e on my ** singular resolut tlon," used those very arguments to intimidate me, till finally I went for advice and encouragement to the wife of a Moravian missionary and a former Swiss consul. I was assured by them that the facilities for travelling in Europe were equal to our own, and that, as a female alone, I would have special protection, as all railroads and post-roads were under the immediate control of the governments, and provision ' was made for the comfort of women superior to any arrangements for American travel. My experience justified their assertion, as the reader will discover in the perusal of adventures in Paris, London, Venice, and Rome.

I returned to America with a settled conviction

that a true woman can maintain her right to the title,

without the necessity for any special effort, wherever

^% there are beings with human sympathies, or capable

of even ordinary discernment.

The Father of " Autobiagraphers at Home and Abroad " has declared, that authors and their public are separated by an immense gulf, of which, happily, neither of them have any conception. Consequently all prefaces are useless; for the more pains a writer takes to make his views clear, the more occasion he gives for embarrassment. Besides, an author, he declares, may preface as elaborately as he will, the public will always go on making precisely those demands which he has endeavored to avoid.

It is a woman's prerogative to differ from the opposite sex, on all points of oratorical limit. Bache-

PRELIMINARY. 1/

lors, from St. Paul to James Buchanan, have ever been marked as ehglble targets for their elocutionary aims. Our friend Goethe deserves some consideration; for it was no fault of his that a matrimonial noose was not voluntarily assumed by him. All angels, however, seemed to desert him ; and destiny assigned him to an eternal consciousness of a demoniacal influence, sometimes appearing in the form of a jealous pimple-faced sister, at others in the forbidding visage of an enraged father. Gretchen, Lucinda, Emilia, Frederica, Olivia, Charlotte, and Lilli, a powerful heptarchy, enjoyed in turn a tyrannical reign in that stout heart, that could face a world of critics without flinching — " but not an angry father ! "

By this mazy course of argument and strong illustration, I wish to convey to my readers the idea, that, if we are to be compagnons de voyage, at the fireside, or in the veranda, we intend to disregard all plans of travel, and set out on an independent female expedition. With this hint I would excuse and conclude my *' preliminary." But I have a duty to perform.

On the eve of my departure from New York, a letter was handed me from Mr. Gibson Peacock, editor of the Evening Bulletin, of Philadelphia. He wrote : " If you see anything in the Old World # you would like to describe for us, we will gladly pay for your letters, and so add to your income. Besides — " but what followed related to the dead, and is too sacred for repetition. To that kind offer I attribute my ability to shake off the veil of gloom that obscured my vision, and look for others, at the scenes I would have ignored for myself. I trust you have such, friends, dear reader; and should their sensitive nature forbid a bold dedication of the fruits of your labors, I will cheerfully read your "preliminary," expressing the full measure of your grateful remembrance.

The Author.

Chapter II. The Voyage

NE would imagine, that, after the opposition of friends had been silenced, there could be nothing more to contend with ; and I would have only to secure my passage in a first-class steamer, and sail at the appointed hour. Alas! there is a disposition on the part of friends to substitute advice for opposition, when they are convinced that our actions proceed from firm and immovable principles, and that our conduct has the sanction of our own approbation. I have before me a picture-book, purchased at Cologne, consisting of one gutta-percha face for ten figures of that proverbial old miller who set out on a journey with his son, and the most famous quadruped after Balaam's.

With a gutta-percha resolution to please my friends in the trifling matter of selecting a steamer, and fixing a date for sailing, I agreed with a large majority of female friends, that the French line was decidedly the best, and as the Ville de Paris had just sailed, and her next date would be too late for me, I must go in the Nameless. She was advertised for the very best time for me. I would just escape the equinoctial, and arrive in Paris before the close of the Fall Exposition.

Man proposes, but Destiny is not always agreed. For the first time in her history, the Nameless was a whole week behind the hour when she was due at New York. I had gone to engage passage when, this information was furnished me, and a certain superstitious dread came over me, shaping itself after the Platonic oracle, "When thou settest out on a journey, turn not back, lest the Furies turn with thee ! " Observing my profound gravity, a companion! suggested, " You might, perhaps, like another line as well ; suppose we take a look at the steamers preparing to sail." I assented, and the permits secured, my male relative and myself explored the piers on the North River to our hearts' content. It rdally seemed providential that my relative encountered an old acquaintance, who proved to be the captain of a fine steamer that would sail on the very date I had chosen. An introduction, a lively chat, and the most encouraging dialogue between the captain and my relative, resulted in my immediate decision to sail in that steamer and no other. As the day was pretty far advanced, we agreed to defer the purchasing of a passage-ticket till the following Monday. I had mentally disposed of every article of my portable luggage in the spacious state-room we had selected, and was quite cheerful in the thought that after all I would not be friendless on the voyage, when, to my dismay, a morning journal announced the determina-

^ror

11 on the part of the Company, to take my

steamer, captain, and all, off the line, and run it along the coast ! This time my friends looked grave, and gave the most gloomy interpretations of such unusual prognostic signs. Finding me still undaunted, however, they resolved that " the third time would be sure to succeed," and quoted Bruce and Columbus, and became enthusiastic over our united determination to be above all superstitious weakness. Besides, a letter from a friend had only a few days before mentioned the anticipated departure of two friends for Prussia, by the German line, and urged me to join them. A letter of introduction enclosed would at once place me on agreeable terms with them. My friends had before scouted the idea of my taking a German steamer for France, but now they suddenly concluded that " it was actually an agreeable change to leave the steamer one sails in, and take the French steamer two days out from Havre. I couldn't do better than call on these friends of my friend."

I devoted the very next day to that object, and was charmed with the result. A mutual pleasure in the interview led to an invitation on the part of these generous acquaintances for a three months' visit to their home in the Fatherland, and an agreement to stop in Paris v/ith me till after the Fall Exposition, so I could accompany them to Prussia.

Three weeks from that date would be their latest time for sailing, my new friends declared ; and now the farev/ell tea-drinkings were vigorously kept up till within two days of the time appointed for sailing, when, lo ! the lady fell ill, and her husband, though in frantic haste to depart, was forced to see a hundred air-castles fade in the dim distance !

" I am a veritable Jonah ! " I exclaimed, *' and who undertakes to sail with me must do it at his peril ! " No reply from my exhausted friends ; so I resolved, ' like the miller before mentioned, that, blame me or praise me, henceforward I would be my own adviser. And, as the story-book says, / did so, and did well.

One day I found myself on a steamer gliding out of New York harbor, straining my eyes to catch a last glimpse of the group of kind friends waving their " farewell " in a crowd of similar groups interested in the departure of our ship's company. There were too many tears falling for any one to feel ashamed of inability to control them ; and I think it must be this simultaneous expression of emotion awakened by the electrifying cry, *' All hands ashore ! " and the last grasp of the friendly hand when that order is given, that so closely unites a little world of travellers " going down in ships to the great deep " together.

The Nameless was favored with a delightful set of passengers. There were families intending to reside in Paris during the winter, giving their children the advantages of a French course of instruction ; artists, going to seek models and inspiration among the works of the old masters ; invalids bound for the south of France, where the climate is of a more even temperature than in the southern American States ;

some bold travellers, intending to brave the Alpine storms and Russian winter; and some sad hearts leaving all gloomy associations for new scenes and cheerful occupations.

In twenty-four hours we were like one family. Our captain, gentlemanly and untiring in his attentions to all, was father, brother, physician, and chaplain. When a storm rocked the steamer like a rowboat on the rapids of Niagara, aiid old and young, male and female, paid the penalty of trespassers in the dominions of Neptune, it was marvellous to see the expedients resorted to by the captain for each peculiar case. None but the aged and those who were previously ill were allowed to remain in their state-rooms. The sailors were ordered to make bean bags for the young people to toss, rings of tarred rope for the gentlemen to substitute for quoits, and camp-stools, reclining-chairs, and every comfort that could aid in making the sea-sick company willing even to tolerate life were kindly placed at their disposal. Grapes, lemons, sour-balls, mint-drops, ginger-nuts, and apples were the favorite articles of diet until the fury of the storm-god abated. Then the transformation scene was extremely ludicrous. Five meals per day failed to satisfy the ravenous appetites, and the promenade deck was crowded from daylight till near midnight with as lively a company as ever graced an ocean-steamer. There was nothing to mar the pleasure of even the most fastidious. The sailors were orderly and respectful ; the captain and officers patient and gentlemanly ; the gentlemen passengers, without exception, attentive, polite, and temperate ; * and the ladies, possessing a full share of personal attractions, displayed none of the vanity and spirit of rivalry so often exhibited on long voyages. The I patriarchal head of our company was Mr. Edward C. 1 Delavan, a leader in the great temperance reform both in America and Europe. His influence was felt and acknowledged by all. At the age of seventy-five he was crossing the fifth time, in perfect health ; and to his clear intellect we were indebted for most delightful reminiscences of his visit to Paris at the time of the restoration of the Bourbons. A copy of his new book, the " Consideration of the Temperance Argument and History," was presented to me on the very last day of our voyage, with a modest but earnest speech ; and on its pages I found suggestions throwing light on many points that the policy of the French Government would conceal.

The " Consideration " explained why there were no disorderly scenes from drunkenness in the streets of Paris, but hosts of inebriates in the cafes and restaurants.

To Mr. Delavan and his agreeable family I was afterwards indebted for many pleasant hours in Paris. I shall have occasion to enlarge upon some of them in a future chapter.

One evening I ascended the companion-way to the promenade-deck, and read on the saloon calendar the notice — " Tzvelve hundred miles from New York.'*

"And twelve hundred more to Havre," I said to myself. "We seem but a little company now, completely isolated from the whole race of mankind, with but a few planks between us and the unfathomable deeps of mid-ocean ! "

And I had left everything dear to me to meet the untried vicissitudes of a strange world, and encounter its more strange people ! I rarely had time for a prolonged indulgence in such reflections, for a kind sympathy, that I can never forget, induced the entire company to aid in making my lonely voyage a cheerful one, and simple gratitude alone would have impelled me to respond to such unselfish consideration.

On this particular evening I thought I would grant myself special indulgence, and I selected a corner for my reveries near the guards in the stern of the ship. Some of the crew were engaged not far from me in examining certain large canvas floaters that will hold twenty or thirty people in emergencies, such as a loss of the life-boats in a storm, and the like. There was an unusual earnestness in the movements of the sailors that I at once interpreted as a foreboding of a heavy storm, heavier than the ordinary squalls that are met off the Banks, and through which we had passed with no other inconvenience than a general sea-sickness. The captain's clerk, coming to give an order to one of the crew, remarked to me :

"You look serious. Are you doubtful about ever seeing Havre?"

k ve I

" No ; I wish I had some fear," I repHed.

"How so?"

" My greatest trouble is that I am possessed of spirit that makes the bottom of the ocean as attractive as the harbor."

" Do you remember what the captain threatened if you hghted your pocket-lantern at midnight ? "

" Yes ; he said he would put me in irons," I replied, laughing at the recollection.

" If you repeat your unreasonable remark to hhn^ he will think he has more occasion for his threat," was the half serious, half playful warning with which the clerk touched his cap and walked away.

Before the sailors had completed their inspection of the floater, the steamer was heaving, sighing, and shuddering like a human creature, and gave that inexplicable evidence a ship does give when she is about to face a coming storm.

The sun, before dazzling with its powerful brilliancy, was suddenly shut out from us as by a heavy curtain, and the ship was enveloped in a pall-like fog. A misty rain began to fall, and the passengers were ordered into the main saloon. By the aid of the fog I concealed myself from observation in my sheltered corner, resolved to see as much as possible of the storm. The captain walked with rapid strides on the bridge, watchful and silent, receiving and giving messages quickly and in low tones. Every man was at his post, and every part of the deck in perfect order. The sails were all taken down, signal whistles shrieking, and minute-guns booming with a dull saddening sound, 'mid the incessant roar arid moaning of the seas. Soon the blackness of night succeeded the pale gloom of the evening mist, and the ship rolled, groaned, shivered and started like one in the agonies of delirium. But still I clung to the guards in my hiding-place. I was spellbound. I could have thrown myself into the foaming ocean with the enthusiasm of a fire-worshipper. But as if to calm my overwrought feelings, those beautiful lines of Adelaide Procter, in her " Hymn to the Sea," were whispered by a spirit-voice close beside me :

" Do tempests swing thee, or deep choral nights Chant unto murmurous slumber ? yield me still The calm of hushed abysses! — human ill

Patience transfigures on her visioned heights.

Thou dost not rive the blood-drenched deck apart,

Nor whelm the slaver's freight of woe, but soft On patient swelling breast upborne, Waftest the dismal burden on.

As trusting in the love that waits aloft.

And the slow germ of good in man's unquiet heart. *^

A hand gently laid on my shoulder drew me away ! from my corner, and I recognized the good stewardess who had taken motherly care of me, never once I losing her patience at my " sea-sick whims."

The deck, ropes, benches, and chairs, were drenched ' with the mist that fell like rain ; and with the ship I riding on the crest of a wave, then plunging into the I trough of the sea, rolling on its side till one water- I wheel was completely submerged and the other

28 A woman's experiences in EUROPE. j

raised clear out of the water, it made the walk to the companion-way decidedly dubious, and I found myself seated or reclining suddenly and unintentionally several times before it was accomplished.

At the entrance to the companion-way I paused to enjoy the strange contrast of the storm without and the cheery light and sounds that rose from the main saloon. Hark ! a hymn, familiar to every American, but imagine it sung by sweet voices, at first trembling and uncertain, but strengthening and with more con-! fidence in every note, with the ocean grandly rolling its muffled thunderings for an accompaniment :

" Jesus, lover of my soul !

Let me to thy bosom fly, While the billows round me roll,

While the tempest still is high !

Hide me, O my Saviour, hide !

Till the storm of life is past ; Safe into the haven guide,

Oh, receive my soul at last! "

Joining the company in the saloon, I found them calm and evidently comforted by the sweet words of the petition they had chanted. During a lull in the storm the captain appeared in the saloon, and expressed his appreciation of the wisdom of his company, and after his reassuring " good-night," we retired to our state-rooms to sleep, knowing there was danger, but trusting that the Hand of the Invisible held the helm.

Chapter III. In Port

E had been out twelve days, meeting only two steamers and a few sails homeward-bound, when we heard the cry of " Land ! " Never shall I forget the sensation. Our entire company, first cabin, second class, officers and men, forgetting distinction in the general joy, rushed forward and hailed the white cliffs of England with waving handkerchiefs and caps, and shouts of joy !

We were off Falmouth. The anchor was dropped, and a cannon roared lustily for a pilot to take us up the channel, and for a tug to carry off the English passengers. No response from the British Lion — John Bull was at tea, and " 'ad no hidea hanother 'alf hour or so would make hany material difference to Brother Jonathan ! " But our impatience knew no bounds, as night fell around us, obscuring the sight of land on which our eyes had been feasting, and making the strange stillness of our steamer, with all the noisy machinery at rest, painfully oppressive.

But new signals were employed. Rockets were

sent up into the clear air, and their stars descending

in tears of fire were received into the gleaming

I waves. Blue-lights and Roman candles made the white cliffs and the myriad sails darting across the bay appear and disappear from our sight as if by magic !