Rambles and reflections. Europe from Biscay to the Black Sea and from Ætna to the North Cape with glimpses at Asia, Africa, America and the islands of the sea

Preface

The following letters are published in book form more as a souvenir for my friends than for general distribution. I have received many flattering letters requesting copies of the newspapers in which they were originally published, but which I have been unable to furnish. This book is intended to supply that demand.

The first series of letters was published in 1869, before the Franco-Prussian War. In that year I saw Paris a? it will , perhaps, never be seen again. It was the most glorious period of the Empire of Napoleon III.

The second series was published in 1873, after France's humiliation and during the World's Fair, at Vienna, a display that has never been equaled by any exposition that it has been my good fortune to see.

In 1888, I made an extended tour of Europe, from Sicily to the North Cape and from Paris to Constantinople. The letters of this series give faithful pictures, as far as I was able to paint them, of my experience and observations during six months of the most active and, to me, the most interesting period of my life.

In 1889 I visited Spain and Northern Africa and have endeavored to give my impressions of the places I visited during the three months I spent in those interesting countries.

The last series of foreign letters was written in 1892, and is confined to France, Italy and Africa.

I trust the letters from Florida, Havana, Jamaica and Bermuda, written during the winters of 1890 and 1891 will prove interesting to those who have, as well as to those who have not visited those places.

The letters describing my hunts in Arkansas and Virginia will recall some pleasant recollections to the old friends who were my partners upon those pleasant occasions and will bs enjoyed by all who are fond of the sports of the field and are friends of the dog and gun.

I have supplemented ni}- book with a Biographic il sketch

IV of the Clayton family in America, which will, of course, be only interesting to my immediate relatives and nearest friends.

As these letters were the hasty compositions of leisure hours and transitory observations, I cannot expect them to be free from just criticism, especially as I am conscious of many grave errors and defects in diction as well as in style. For the want of time and patience, I have concluded to republish them without much revision, trusting to the indulgence of the generous reader, who, I am quite sure, will agree with me that it is much easier to criticise the writings of others than to employ our own pens with perfection.

The book contains faithful records of my first impressions of the manners, customs and characteristics of the Old World as I have seen it, and if it will give information, pleasure or pastime to my friends, to whom it is respectfully dedicated, my only object in its publication will be attained.

T. J. C.

Table Of Contents

Family Arms, - - - - I

Portrait, - - - - - II

Preface, ----- m

Table of Contents, - _ - _ jy

I. First visit to Europe, 1869 — Life on the ship, - i

Cockney English — First sight of Ireland — Cove and Oueenstown, - - - - - 2

Cork Harbor — Spike Island — -Drake's pool — Itemized hotel bill, - - - - 3

II

Queenstown to Killarney — Old castles — Cork — Shandon bells, - - - - - 4

Royal names—Emblem of English justice, old-fashioned steelyards — The zvatcrjack — Blarney stone — P'iddler of Blarney — Birds and beggars — The Mardyke — Killarney — Gap of Dunloe — Masonic friends — Musical echoes — An old barefooted Friar, - - - 6

III

Killarney to Dublin — Irish railroads — No barns — Peasantry — An Irish-American, - - - 7 Round towers — Turf — Decreasing population — American farming implements — Dublin — Its bridges and public buildings, squares, monuments and parks — An interesting old city, - - - - 8

IV

Dublin to Giant's Causeway — High rents — Drogheda — Old ruins — Remains of the seige by Cromwell — Dwellings of the poor, - - - - "9

Battle of the Boyne — Bridge at Drogheda-— Orangemen outrages — Crosses of Monasterboice — Tomb of King Muredach — Round Tower — Millifonet Abbey — Ten counties at onQcotip d'oeil, - - - 10

VI

, Long July days — Belfast — An American city — Familiar names — Obituary poetry — Jaunting cars — Keep to the right — -Gray brick — Girls as farm hands— ^The Giant's Causeway, - - - - - 1 1

Who built the causeway — Portcoon cave — Tim M'Cool — Dunluce Castle — Port Rush sea bathing, - 12

V.

From Ireland to England, - - - 12

Liverpool in 1869 — How to explore a strange city — U. S. 5-20's in England — Gold and bank notes in 1869 — Birkenhead, - - - " I3

Chester in England — The Rows and old Roman walls — Phoenix Tower — Old Monk's description of Chester, - 14 Chester Cathedral — Epitaph over a dead son — Horses of Liverpool — English plow, - - - 15

VI.

Liverpool to London — Underground R. R. — Farmers — Merchant princes — Sights of London, - - 16

British museum — Three land marks, - - 17

London bridge and monument — A deed 4000 years old - — ^Picture Gallery — Bigotry of the olden time, - 17.

Antiquity of London — Great fire — English dislike to changes — 80 miles of solid buildings — Westminster Abbey, chapels and tombs, - - - 18

A Queen's epitaph — Poet's corner — "O Rare Ben Johnson" — Lady Ann of Cleve — Richard III, - - 20 Pious fraud, - - - - 21

VII

St. Paul's — Sir Christopher Wren's monument, - 21

Tombs in the crypt — Wellington's funeral car — View from the Ball — The great bell — Tomb of Benjamin West — The Tower of London, - - 22

Ancient and monern arms — Colt's revolver 400 years old — Axe and block — The Koh-i-Noor, - - 23

Traitor's gate — Anne Boleyn, - - 24

Justice to England — Ignorance of America — Sympathy with our Rebellion — The Alabama case — English cha- 25 racter, - - - - - 26

VIII

London to Carlisle — How to see London — English and 26 American pronunciation — Crystal Palace, . - 27

South Kensington museum — .Doctors and lawyers — Old castle at Carlisle — Prison of Queen Mary — A Cale- 28 donian giant — Druid remains — King Arthur's Round 29 table — Ignorant people.

IX. Carlisle to Edinburgh, - - - "29

Edinburgh castle — Coltonhill— Arthur's seat — Heart of Mid-Lothian — St. Anthony's chapel — Holy Rood — 30 Mary Queen of Scots — Reflections on Mary's character, 31 Hawthornden — Roslin Chapel — River Esk — Rosabelle, 32

X

Edinburgh to Rotterdam — Dykes and canals — Black cows, - - - - - 33

Industrious people — Leaning and lop-sided houses — Curious customs, - - - - 34 Beer drinking and music — Cows in harness — ^City without sidewalks — Street scenes — Good eaters and great smokers — Water not drunk as a beverage, - - 35 A hotel breakfast — The menu, - - 36

XL

Rotterdam to Baden-Baden — Enchanting den of gamblers, 36 . — Drives in the Black Forest — Scenes around the gaming tables — Antwerp to Brussels — -Eve of Waterloo, - "^J "The Star Spangled Banner"— The field of Waterloo — Conjugal scene — No fences in Holland or Belgium — Up 38 the Rhine — Cologne — Mayence—Vineyards — Women 39 in harness, - - - - - 40

XII

Baden to Geneva — Bale — Old Minster — Dispelled illusions — Grand scenery— Lake of Geneva, - - 41

Confluence of the Arve and Rhone — Good and bad cannot flow in the same channel, - - - 41 Mount Blanc from Geneva — 50 miles' ride in a Diligence — Splendid roads — Valley of Chamouni — Second view of Mount Blanc 12 miles away — Adventure of a Chicago boy, - - - - 42 Glaciers and mountain passes — Mount Flegere — Montanvcrt, - - - - - 43 4;000 Americans visited Mount Blanc in 1869, - 44

XIII

Geneva to Paris — ^Hundredth anniversary of the birth of Napoleon — A peasant's advice — First sight of Paris — 44

In a blaze of glory — Waiting for sunrise — L. N. — Place

de la Bastille — Lettre de Cachet, - - 45

Column of July — :io,ooo great rampart guns discharged by one electric spark at sunrise — Why Paris is such a

gay city — Gate of Hell, - - - 46

Amusements — Churches — Schools — The first theatre a 47

Religious institution — -Soirees and balls — First restaurant 48

of Paris — The Devil in Paris — -Historic sketch — Reflec- 49

Napoleon III. His precautions for the future — The 51

Coup d'Etat of 1 85 1 — Pere la Chaise — Miss Mar's 52

baby — The Tuilleries — A scrap of history, - - 53

Must not talk politics — Reflections on a traveler's life, 54

XIV

Second trip to Europe in 1873 — On ship once more — A lady who had not time to fix her hair — Scenes of embarkation — A pretty woman in tears — Little Charley — Tears turned to smiles, - - - 55

Mrs. Studtgardt— The, Cock Tail Club, - - 56

A ship in distress — Rumor's lying tongue — Fellow travelers from the south, - - "57

XV. Second visit to Ireland, - - - 57

Street nomenclature in Cork — Scene in an Irish Court — 58

Hospitality — A Yankee after a fortune, - 59

P'rom Cork to Limerick — Memento Mori — Marks of

Cromwell's cannon balls — The old Italian's lost bells — 59 The Shannon — Mishap to an P^nglish tourist — The

Colleen Bawn — An Irish fair at Ennis — Irish mutton — 60

, The town full — No beds, - - - 61

Scenes at the fair — Pigs and wit, - - 62

XVI

Ennis to Galway — Athenrey — Bally-David Castle — Galway in a state of decline — Looks like an old Spanish 62 town — Lynch Castle and Lynch Law — The Claddagh — 63 Galway to Londonderry — An Irish curse — Protestant and Catholic churches compared — The Cathedral — City walls — Seige of Derry — Slow place — Bathing at Port 65 Rush, - _ . - - 66

.XVI I , Deny to Hamburg, -. - - - 66

IX

Dunluce castle from the sea — Rugged coast — Giant's Causeway again — Liverpool to Hull — Manchester from the cars — Two hours at Leeds — Handsome women, dj

Hull — Human slavery in 1834 and 1865 — A clever fellow in England, - - - - 68 Hamburg in a storm — First efforts at Dutch — Carl Schurz — John F. Hartranft, - - - 69 A funeral in Hamburg, - - - 70

xvin.

Hamburg to Dresden — City in a park, - - 71

New and old cities — Museums and churches — Sunday in Europe — Military spirit — The king and his cabman 72 — Berlin — A bad pun — Contrasted with Paris — History of the city — Unter den Linden, - "73

Monument of Victory — Berlin to Dresden — World renowned gallery, - - - ~ 74 Raphael's Madonna — Immodest paintings — Diamonds in the green vault — An adventure in the Zoo, - 75

XIX.

Dresden to Vienna — Adventure with a Dutch girl — Hotel de la Metropole — New York prices, - " 76

Vienna in 1873 — Approaching eastern civilization — Restrictions upon Jews — The Jewish quarters — History of Vienna, - - - - ~ 77

The World's Fair — Visited by all nations, - ~ 78

Fine display of art — " Playing with the Tiger," " Shipwrecked," " Walking in the Light," '' A Sleeping Beauty," " The Enchantress," " The Assassination of Caesar," and other fine paintings, - - "79

The world in a nut-shell — 15 miles of exhibits — The Burgomaster's Fete — Cholera in Venice, - - 80

XX.

Vienna to Munich — Last look at the Fair — An American in jail — Suspicious wine cellar, - - 81 The whole world in Vienna — A black princess, 82 High altitude of Munich — The Basilica — Gallery — 83 Palace and dungeon — Lola Montez — New king and music — Beer drinkers — Privileges of the sex, - - 84 A priest-ridden people — A charnel house, - 85

XXI.

Munich to Strasburg — Swabes — Stutgardt, - - 86

Deserted Baden-Baden — Humiliated Strasburg — Cathedral — Late seige — Shells for candlesticks — City Germanized — A priest's opinion of Emperor William, 87 Strasbourg to Paris— Celebrated clock and pickpockets — Strict passport regulations, - - - 88 Paris declining — Wounded by the war — Probable short-lived Republic, - - - - 89 Contrast between French and German soldiers — English as spoken by a French girl — Absinthe drinking — 90 Sodom — Infidelity — Versailles, &c., - - 91

XXII.

Homeward — More about Paris — Pere la Chaise — Morgue, 92 Museum de Cluny — Panorama of the seige of Paris — A sea-sick sailor, - - - - 93

Folkstone to London — Thames embankment — Albert memorial — Quid pro Quo, - - - 94 Color line in Liverpool — Crowded' hotels, - "95 Sad incident, funeral at sea — Ship a little world, - 96 Queer people on the ship — The Parson — The Professor — The Missionary — Widower — Blue stocking, &c., - 97 A sailor's idea of preachers — An Irish woman's letter, 98

XXIII.

Third trip (1888) — New York to Antwerp — Changes in ocean traveling since 1873, - - - 98

Neptune in a rage, - - - 99

A preacher's opinion of a philosopher — Mutual blunders by French and English passengers — The Gulf Stream — Trail of the ship, . _ _ _ joo

Smoking-room enjoyments — The world's highway — All on a sea-level — Eddystone, - - - loi

Coast of England for 200 miles — Lizard to Dover — Farewell to the ship and shipmates, - - 102

XXIV.

Antwerp to Bale — Delay at Flushing — Dykes and canals 102 of Holland — Cathedral, _ _ ^ 103

Docks — Art gallery — Elevated promenade — Brussells — Musee Wiertz — Little Paris, - - - 104

Waterloo once m.ore — Napoleon out generaled — Travelling much more expensive than in 1873 — A little dinner for four — Valley of the Rhine, - - - 105

XXV.

Bale to Milan — The rapid Rhine— Pretty city — Hotel of 106

XI the three Kings — Crooked streets— "Old Minster" — Changes in nineteen years— Beautiful views — Street railways without rails, . _ _ jq^

No free baggage in Italy or Switzerland — The frontier — Cars without accommodations — -Fine scenery, - io8

St. Gothard's tunnel — A destroyed village, - io8

An intruder — An Italian surprised at the ability of an American to speak English, - - - 109

Difference in temperature between the north and south sides of the Alps, - - - - no

XXVI.

Milan to Genoa, - - - - no

The Cathedral of Milan, 500 years old, cost $ 1 20,000,000, 1 1 1 Art Gallery of Milan — ^ipoo.ooo painting — Street railways and electric lights, - - - 1 1 1 Arcade Victor Emanuel — Campus Martius — Campo Santo — Death inspecting a new made grave — Pigeonholes for human bones, - - - 112 Battlefields of Hannibal and Napoleon — First view of the Mediterranean — Birthplace of Columbus — City of Genoa — A city on mountains' sides — Paint and fresco — Immense fortification, - - - - 'i 1 3

XXVII.

Genoa to Pisa — Further description of Genoa — A city of contrasts, - - - - 114

Handsome girls and robust boys — Beautiful views from mountain drives — Magnificent Campo Santo — - 115

A funeral — Man's desire for immortality — Mr. Blaine — 116 Leaning tower at Pisa — Malaria — Historic ground — A city as old as Troy — Campo Santo and Columbaria — 117 Italy full of pilgrims to Rome — Fighting the deadly malaria — Signs of recuperation — Italy destined to resume her ancient greatness, - - - 118

XXVIII.

Pisa to Rome — Etruscan relics — Civita Vecchia — The Eternal city -Old city rapidly passing away — New discoveries, • - - - - 119 The Coliseum — "The Senate sends you this" — Last fight in the Coliseum, - - - - 120 The forum — Widening the Tiber — A beautiful modern city of ^400,000 inhabitants — Cruelty to animals — Old 121

XII

Rome thirty feet below the present surface — The World's contributions to its old mistress — Military dis- 122 play — Hotels — Villas and palaces — The ' King and Queen — An unhealthy place from May to September, 123

XXIX.

Traveling and Romance, - - - - 123

Past glory of Rome, - - - 124

Its civilization very much like our own — Penalty for proposing new laws — A school girl's idea of Rome — Cannot be seen in less than two weeks — 400 churches — How to see it, - - - - 125

Reflections upon Rome, - - - 126

The Pope's jubilee — Magnificent presents — Pious frauds — The black Virgin, - - - 127

XXX.

Rome to Naples — Last look at Rome — St. Peter's, 128

Roman justice in 1420, A. D — Night scene in the Coliseum — An ancient Roman bath, - - 129 Her fountains and aqueducts — -The lesson of the fall of . Rome — Farewell to Rome, - - - 1 30 Naples a large and flourishing city — Duchess of Edinburg a guest at our hotel — Fleas, lice and beggars — Sights in the streets, - - - 131 A visit to the crater of Vesuvius — Grotesque forms of lava — A painter's idea of hell, - - - 132 Capri and the Blue grotto, - - - 133

XXXI.

Naples to Messina — Last days of Pompeii, - " i 34

Messina — Stromboli — First sight of ^tna — Scylla and Charybdis — Cholera -- A Jerseyman — Hints — A slowpeople, - ^ - - - - 135 Italian ships — Fleas and bugs — Politeness from conductors, according to the class of your ticket — Catania at the foot of ^tna, - - , - - 1 36 A sea-sick voyage to Athens — A wandering sparrow — The Isles of Greece, - - - 13?

Love and death — The Piraeus — Time's ruins — Council of Thirty — Accumulation of wealth a capital crime, i 38 Old and new Athens — A cosmopolitan city — The new Academy — A deteriorated race, - - - 1 39

XXXII.

Athens — Sunburned — Parthenon and Temple of Theseus, 140

XIII

Three principal hills — Old city carried away — Even the soil gone, - - - - - 141

Wonderful changes in looo years — Necropolis — Plato's academy — Cimon's tomb, - - - 142

The place from which Paul preached — The rostrum of Demosthenes — The Stadium — False teachings of our schoolmasters — Dr. Schlieman's house — A brick 4000 years old — The Sarcophagus of Agamemnon, - 143

Groves of Daphne — Tomb of Thermistocles — Old evolutionists — Eleusis — Salamis — Seat of Xerxes — Olive trees 600 years old — Shin plasters — Visit to the King's palace, - - - - - 145

XXXIII.

Athens to Constantinople — Asiatic passengers, - 146

Embarkation on the Continent — Evolution of a man from a monkey — Site of Troy — The narrow Dardanelles, - - - - - 147 Stamboul, dirt and dogs — Fire regulations, - - 148 Mohammedon dilapidation — Cruelty to men and kindness to brutes — English as spoken by the guides — Three Sundays — Sultan's day, - - - 149 Ladies and eunuchs — Backshish — The pigeon mosque — A self-righteous old man's prayer, - -150 Superstitions — Metempsychosis— Street scenes, 1 5 1

XXXIV.

Constantinople to Bucharest — Scraps of history — New Rome — Duke and Count — Riot of Nike, - " 152

Blue and green — The hippodrome — Roman decree like the U. S. XVth amendment — Difference between like and similar — Stories of ignorant guides — Valuable missionary work — Ruins of time, - - 153 Reflections on human glory — Old prophecy nearly fulfilled — Cistern of 1,000 columns — The dungeon with no echo, - - - - - 154 Handwriting on the wall — Keep your mouth shut — Golden Horn — Archery — Winter palace, - 155 A large family — Courtiers rewarded — Crescent and Cross — A day in Asia — Chalcedon — City of the blind, 156 Loaves and fishes — Splendid view — Bazaars, entry easy, exit difficult — Happy gate, - - ~ ^S7 Hellespont — Bosphorous — Black sea — The Balkans — An old maid, - - - - 158

XXXV.

Bucharest to Zurich — Bucharest a beautiful city — Great wheat fields — Borders of Russia — Cheap labor — Women Masons, - - - - ^59

Bucharest to Turn-Severin — Up the Danube — Rich alluvial lands — An old feudal castle, - - i6o

Belgrade — Old Buda-Pesth — Modernized with half a million inhabitants — A second Chicago — Hot Springs i6i and Turkish baths — Fine music — On to Vienna — A rejuvenated city — Changes in fifteen years — Beautiful suburbs — Second only to Paris, - - - 162 A sight of the Emperor — Prematurely old — Schonbrunn — Kohlenberg — Innspruck, - - - 163 The Austrian Tyrol — Old church at Innspruck — A Rip Van Winkle sleep — Over the Alps — Westward — Sources of the Rhine, Rhone and Danube, - 164

XXXVI.

Zurich to Geneva — Arlberg tunnel — 4298 feet above sea level — Beautiful Zurich, - - - 165

Silk weaving — Berne — Inconsistant Sabbatarians — Old church— Beautiful nature — Celebrated clock, - 166

Berne to Geneva — A Swiss family — Geneva once more — Towns on the lake — Castle of Chillon, - 167

View of Mt. Blanc — Geneva watches, - 168

XXXVII.

Geneva to Paris — Large fields and wire fences — Six oxen to one plow — Changes in Paris since the Republic — High prices, - - - - - 169

Hotel Continental — Paris compared with Vienna — Satan in Paris, - - - - - 170

Licensed bawdy houses — Dueling — Morals bad but taste good — Cook's tourists — How to see the Louvre, - 171

Sharpers — Passport annoyances to enter Germany — A visible war feeling for revenge, - - 172

XXXVIII.

Paris to Amsterdam — More about Paris — Meanness of hotel keepers, - - - - 173

Reckless driving, - - - 174

Howling for another struggle with Germany — From Paris to Metz — Battlefields around Metz — Strongly fortified — A Germanized city, - - - i/S

XV

Marshal Ney's monument — Singular hotel rules - i76

Cold weather in July — Sweet Bingen on the Rhine — Bingen to Cologne, down the Rhine, - - ^77

Mountain vineyards — Two days at Cologne — Changes since 1869 — The bones of St. Ursula, - - 178

XXXIX.

Amsterdam to London — A city on piles, - - 1/9

Delfthaven and the Mayflower pilgrims — A curious old town — Street scenes in Rotterdam — The rich, poor, and Jewish quarters — An old friend, - - 180

A story of the capture of Rotterdam — Amsterdam — The Hague — Diamond cutters of Amsterdam - - 181

Holland a kitchen garden for London — Back to London — Greatly improved since 1873 — Our native tongue once more — Hotel Metropole — Impressions after a long absence, - - - - - 182

Off for the Polar regions, - . - 183

XL.

London to the North Cape — The tides at Tilbury — Three days by sea to Christiania — Rugged Norway — Moun- 183 tains, glaciers and fjords — Christiania — A carriage drive at midnight — Long twilights and love, - - 1 84

License laws — Democratic manners — Christiania to Throndhjem — Beautiful flowers — St. Olaf, - 185

American flag — A German brute — A grand send off — A sickly moon and pale stars, - - - 186

In the Arctic ocean — Playing with whales — Troniso — Ancient Thule — The birthplace of Christmas festivities — The Marked Hat, - - -187

Hammerfest — Land without value — Perpetual day — The midnight sun, - - - - 188

The North Cape — Course of the sun — Bird-roost Rock — Disappointment — Reflections, - - 190

XLI.

North Cape to Copenhagen — Last look at the midnight sun, - - - - - 190

Depressing silence — Optical delusions — O n e visit enough — Back to Christiana — A viking ship over i ,000 years old — Reflections on our ships t,ooo years hence Familiar names, - - - - 191

Gin for breakfast — Old ship customs — Gottenberg — Prosperity in Europe — Birthplace of Hamlet — Copenhagen — Kronberg castle, - - - 192

XVI

A popular king — Industrial exposition — Reception to the Emperor of Germany — Lotteries, - - 193

Relics of the stone age — Europe, a camp and all its cities, arsenals, - - - - 194

XLII.

Copenhagen to Berlin — Political reflections — -Bismarck in 1873 and now, - - - - I95

Resemblance in all European cities — Berlin handsome but dull, - - - - - 196

Contrast between the palaces of the old Emperor and the Empress — German dislike to Victoria — Lessons taught by the Museum of Arms — An improvement in street railway cars, - - - ^97

XLIIL

Berlin to Edinburgh — Hamburg again — The great fire of 1842 a blessing in disguise — A beautiful city, - 199

Daily showers to refresh the flowers — Following the track of spring — Goods cheap — Soon to lose its privileges as a free city — Hamburg to Lubeck, - . 200 A curious old city — The dance of death, - - 201 Old League Hall — Old poetry translated — On board ship for Edinburgh — Democrats abroad — Edinburgh once more — Changes in nineteen years, - 202 Industrial Exposition at Glasgow — The Queen's jubilee presents — Edinburgh to York, . - - - 203

XLIV.

York to London — York, the oldest city in England — Berwick — Durham — Darlington and New Castle from the cars — Historic sketch, _ _ _ 204

Reunion with a fellow traveler — The Cathedral — Walls, gates and towers of York, _ _ _ 205

A scene from Ivanhoe — Dick Turpin and his black mare, Bess, ----- 206

Micklegate bar, from which "York might look over York" — The Booth family — The city of my ancestors — Back to London — A second Babylon, - - 207

Last letter of this series — The difficulties of letter writing, 208

XLV.

From New York to Liverpool in 1889 — How they reckon time from city to city, - - - 208

Glimpses at life on a ship — The iron age — Size and appointments of the ship — A floating city, - 209

XVII

A death on the ship (a human sacrifice) — MoonHght on the sea — Beautiful stars — How to find latitude and longitude by the stars — Distinguished passengers — Purse-proud people, - - - - 210

Taken for a preacher — A blue stocking, - 211

XLVI.

Liverpool to Rouen — Great ships can only enter Liverpool at high water — A crank, - - - 212 Happy childhood — The wonderful docks of Liverpool — St. George's hall — Birkhenhead tunnel — Birmingham — — Warwick Castle — Rural England, - - 213 Stratford-on-Avon — An Englishman's idea of Philadelphia — Prosperity in England — Kenilworth — Slums of London, - - - - - 214 Brighton — New Haven — Sudden change from England to France — Rouen — Jeanne D'Arc — The Butter tower, 215 Bird's eye view of Rouen, - - - 216

XLVIL

Rouen to Paris — What can be seen in sixty days, - 216

An old Parisian hotel with a history — Paris in her Sunday clothes, - - - 217 The great exposition of 1889 — The Eiffel tower a mint, 218 How men and horses look from the top of the tower — A night scene at the exposition — St. Germain — Gaslight in Paris, - - - - 219

XLVin.

Paris to .Marseilles — Along walk — Buttes Chauniont — Tf lonely look up — Rural France — Old fashioned harvest- 220 ing — Battlefields and historic places — Study of French in a railroad car, - - - - 221