Summer pictures : from Copenhagen to Venice

Front matter

COPENHAGEN TO VENICE

HENRY M.'fIELD,

ACTHOK OF

Chapter I. Page

Crossing the Ocean in a Packet Ship — A Night on a Pilot Boat — Landing at Fiilmouth — Piide on an English Mail Coach — The Atlantic Telegraph Expedition J3

Chapter III

A Near Yiew of Mr. Spurgeon 4*7

CHAPTER lY.

English Manners — Reserve — Pride — Snobbery — Worship of Rank — Better Qualities — English Hearts and English Homes C6

CHAPTER Y.

England and the Continent — Normandy — Dieppe — The Cliff, the Castle and the Beach — Rouen — Paris 81

CHAPTER YI. .

Changes of Ten Years in the French Capital — The Republic Destroyed—Louis Napoleon — Improvements in the City— New

vU viii .. co^'TEXTS.

PAGE

Buildings, New Squares and New Streets — Eulargeinent of the City Walls— Military Regime — The Imperial Guard — Zouaves and Chasseurs — Chances of Revolution — Feeling of the Nation toward the Emperor— Will the Empire last ? 91

CHAPTER VII.

The American Chapel in Paris 103

CHAPTER YIII.

Holland— Face of the Country — Dikes find Canals— Energy of the People — Wealth and Commerce — Historical Interest of Holland— Her Scholars and Painters — Wars for Liberty — Embarkation of the Pilgrims — Friendly Manners of the People — How the Dutch enjoy themselves .' 110

CHAPTER IX.

Leaving Holland — Hanover and the Georges — Hamburg — Beauty of the City — Its Commerce 132

CHAPTER X.

Denmark — Excursion in Holstein and Schleswig — Life in a Danish Parsonage 141

"chapter XL

The Island of Fione — Copenhagen — Beauty of the City and its Environs — Decline of Denmark as a European Povrer — Attack of Nelson in 1801 — Bombardment in 1807 — Loss of Norway — The Country still Rich in the Elements of Prosperity — Points of Sympathy with America — Settlement of the Sound Dues Question — The King — Hopes of Scandinavian Unity — Thorwaldsen 150

CONTENTS. IX

CHAPTER XII.

PAGE

Crossing the Baltic— Germany — Berlin, a Dull City except for Scholars — Manners of the People— Frederick the Great— The Prussian Army— Political Discontent— Signs of Ptevolution. . . 174

CHAPTER XIII.

Dresden — Position on the Elbe — Beauty of the City and its Environs — Attractions to Strangers— Picture Gallery— The King —The Battle of Dresden 182

CHAPTER XIV.

Sail on the Elbe — Prague— Situation and Architecture — The Old Bridge — The Jews' Quarter — Synagogue and Cemetery — The Cathedral — Palace of the Bohemian Kings 193

CHAPTER XV.

Protestantism in Bohemia— Early Reformation— John Huss — The University of Prague — Huss Burnt at Constance — The Wars which followed— Blind Ziska— The Thirty Years' War— Wallenstein— Present State of Protestantism in Bohe>ma 203

CHAPTER XVI.

Vienna — Contrast with Berlin — The Imperial Cit}- — Historical Associations — Tombs of the Emperors — Maria Theres,'^ — The Son of Napoleon — The Present Royal Family — The Government — Failure of the Revolution of 1848 — Result of th*^ War in Hungary — A Slow Progress , . . 212

CHAPTER XVII.

From the Baltic to the Adriatic — The Scmmering Pass over the Julian Alps — The Grotto of Adelsberg — Venice — Approach from the Sea — Canals and Gondolas— The Square of St. Mark 1*

X CONTENTS.

PACK

— Pii.lacG of the Doges, aud the Bridge of Sighs — Visit to the Islands in the Ilarbor — Moonlight and Music 226

CHAPTER XYIII.

Another View of Venice — The Austrian Rule — Celebration of the Emperor's Birthday — Illumination for the Young Prince — Hatred of the People to the Officers — The Bombardment and PoUtical Executions 239

CHAPTER XIX.

Verona — Its Amphitheatre — Congress of Verona — The City Strongly Fortified — Campaign of 1848 — Probable Tactics in case of another War — Milan and its Cathedral 245

CHAPTER XX.

Lakes Como and Maggiore — The Battle-field of Novara — Abdication of Cliarles Albert — His Voluntary Exile and Death — Turin — The King and the People — Hatred of the Austrians — Part in the Russian War — Crossing Mont Cenis 2G3

CHAPTER XXI.

Domestic Life in France 281

0:N'E WOED.

PiCTUEES — nothing more ! ITo " grand tour " here drags its slow length along. This is not a Hand-Book of Foreign Travel, ponderous with statistics of strange lands and cities, but a mere Portfolio of Sketches by the Wavside. Most of these were taken on the spot, and sent home, in letters, to America, which may explain their familiar style. The writer calls them "Pictures," to indicate their fragmentary and unpretendiug character; and "Summer Pictures," partly because they were taken at that season of the year when the earth puts on her beauty — but still more as a token of that cheerful light in which he has looked upon countries and men. In the same genial temper may the reader cast his eye over this succession of pleasant landscapes, warm and glowing with the summer's sun.

New York, May 20, 1359.

Chapter I

Crossing the Ocean in a Packet Ship — A Night on a Pilot Boat — Landing at Falmouth — Kide on an English Mail Coach — The Atlantic Telegraph Expedition.

Plymouth, England, Jane 7, 1858.

Our passage across the Atlantic has proved one of the most rapid ever made by a packet-ship. Only fourteen days from land to land ! At first the fates seemed to be against ns. A storm with thnnder and lightning broke over us as we were going down the bay. But from the hour we passed Sandy Hook, the winds which for weeks had been blowing from the east, turned to the west, and continued favorable through the whole voyage. In the Gulf Stream and off the Western Islands, we encountered heavy gales, but as they blew from the right quarter, they only speeded us on our way. The scene was exciting, and sometimes fearful. The waves went booming past with a noise like thunder, the spray rained upon our deck, and the ^vinds shrieked m the rigging, but still the gallant ship swelled her canvas proudly to the gale, and flew before it like a bird of the storm, and in just two weeks brought us in sight of England.

Our friends who are going to Europe, if they do not fear to be delayed by contrary winds, and can spare a few days more of time, will do well to take one of the London packets. I commend to them especially the famous line of Capt. Morgan, w^ho has been himself so long and so favorably known to all travellers between England and America. Rev. Dr. Bushnell once told me that half the pleasure of a voyage to Europe was to cross the sea with Capt. Morgan. Smce he retired from active command, he has resided in New York, and had charge of the whole line. The ships are all good, but one may think himself peculiarly fortunate who embarks on board the Amazon, with Capt. Hovey. This is a ship of 2,000 tons, very stoutly built, and of such fine model, that she carries herself through the water with a steady and gentle motion. Her captain is an excellent seaman, very quiet in his manner, but with, a quick eye to observe every spar and sail and roj^e, and prompt and energetic in the whole discipline and management of his crew. The ship was always in perfect order, and under such excellent control as gave us a very pleasant feeling of confidence and security. Besides, Capt. Hovey is not only a brave and skillful seaman, but a thoroughly good man, always kind and considerate of the comfort of his pas-

CROSSIXG THE OCEAN IN A PACKET SHIP. 15

sengers. I had crossed the ocean with hmi once before, on the voyage home from England in 1848, and was glad of the opportunity to be with him again.

To many persons it will be a further recommendation of these ships, that they can carry but a limited number of passengers. A few years ago, when all travel between Europe and America was by sailing vessels, the London and Liverpool packets were fitted up with long cabins, which could accommodate a large number. But since the majority of travellers now go by steamers, the cabin is reduced in size, though perhaps increased in convenience. That of the Amazon is built on the upper deck, so high as to furnish the best light and air. It held now but little over a dozen passengers, yet the state-rooms were all occupied. As our companions chanced to be all countrymen, and agreeable persons, there sprang up between us a very friendly feeling. There were just enough for a good family party. At their special request, joined to that of the captain, we had daily prayers, and as we met thus morning and evening, or gathered around our table, we seemed indeed like one household, and sure I am, that all will recur to these two weeks on shipboard as a most agreeable chapter in their lives.

As soon as we saw the coast of England, we were impatient to be on shore. The captain knew our wish, and offered to aid us in its execution. We had hardly entered the British Channel before we descried making tovrards us a pilot boat from Falmouth, which hailed us,

16 SUiVniER PICTURES.

and asked for orders. As ^ve were bound for London^ the captain had no use for a pilot to Fahuouth, but asked if he TA^ould return into port with several of our passengers. Four of us wished to go, and the pilot said he w^ould take us in for a pound apiece, an oifer which w^e eagerly accepted. He sent a small boat to take us oif to his little vessel, and w^e clambered down the sides of the Amazon, Mrs. F. being swung over in a chair. The sun was sinking in the w^est as Ave moA^ed away from the noble ship, and our friends w^aved their adieus from the upper deck.

We were in full view^ of the coast, yet we had some miles to work up to Falmouth. With a cracking breeze, our light boat would easily have taken us in in an hour ; but hardly had we left the ship, before the wind left us. The gale which had borne us on so swiftly, had spent its strength, and was dying away. The long swell which came rolling in from the Atlantic, subsided into gentle undulations, as if the w^aters knew that they touched the shores of England, and sank down submissive at her feet. If I w^ere an artist, I would try to paint that sunset, though the richest colors ever thrown upon canvas could not approach the reality. All gloriously sank the summer sun, resting on the horizon like a globe of fire, and casting up his rays into the clouds which hung over the place of his going down. We stood up in the stern of the boat in silent awe, and seemed transfigured in the glory which covered the sea and sky.

A NIGHT ON A PILOT BOAT. 17

As the sun went clo^yn, the breeze went with it. Fainter and fliinter came the pulses of tlie air, till at last there was a dead calm, and our little boat, though light as a feather, ceased to move ; her canvas drooped, and like a white duck folding her wings at shut of day, she lay sleeping on the ocean's breast.

But we had still several hours of light. To the golden sunset succeeded the softer twilight, which in the month of June, and in this high northern latitude, lingers long. At ten o'clock, its pale reflection was still in the heavens. As it faded out in the west, calm and beautiful shone forth the evening star.

For a time we had kept up a brisk conversation, but as the twilight deepened, we spoke in lower tones, and at last all sat silent and thoughtful, watching the revolving; lio-hts in the lio-hthousos along; the coast, or turnincc away to where the great johantom of the ship glided on in the darkness. "We saw distinctly the houses on the shore. But all Avere hushed in quiet. Not even a curl of smoke could be seen rising from the chimney-top, and not a watch-dog's howl came across the waters. The people, like honest Christian folk, had gone to bed, where we ought to be.

When we left the ship, we did not dream of passing the night in this cockle shell. A pilot boat has but limited sleeping arrangements. One may indeed creep down a ladder into a narrow space under the deck, which is dignified as " the cabin." But a full grown man, who should stretch his Umbs in it, would feel almost as if he were laid out in a coffin. I tried it for a few minutes, but was glad to escape into the night air. So we were fain to make a sofo out of a pile of trunks ; and wrapping our cloaks and shawls about us, there we sat all night long, muffled and still. But the hours did not seem weary. De Quincey says, that often, when under the influence of opium, he fell into long reveries, from which he did not wish to awake. " More than once it has happened to me, on a summer night, Avlien I have been at an open window, in a room from Avhich I could overlook the sea, that I have sat from sunset to sunrise, motionless and without wishing to move." We too were under a spell. The heavens above, and the M'aters beneath, were full of solemn mystery, suggesting thoughts too deep for slumber.

But look ! the day begins to break. By three in the morning, the first faint bars of light streaked the east, and in an hour it was clear day. We found that we were inclosed by the arms of a small and tranquil haven. On either side the hills rose up from the water as fresh and green as if they had just risen out of the crystal sea. In front, a projecting headland was crowned by an old fort, on whose walls the sentinel ever keeps watch and ward, and from which the morning drum-beat rolls over the peaceful waters. We looked up with all the surprise and delight of Coleridge's Ancient Marmer :

LANDING AT FALMOUTH. 19

'* dream of joy ! Is this indeed The h'ghthouse-top I see ?

Is this the hill ? Is this the kirk ? Is this mine own countree ?"

There was a keen delight of the senses in the first smell of the land, as we inhaled the odor of violets in the freshness of the morning air. And hark, we hear the carol of a bird. It is the song of the cnckoo !

The pilot now got out his small boat, and two strong oarsmen soon pulled us in to the shore. But it seemed as if we were landing, like Columbus, to take possession of an uninhabited countrj^. There on the beach lay a town, but we saw no sign of life. It looked as if the inhabitants had all disappeared, and there remained nothing but silent streets and empty houses. The people in this quiet nook of England are guilty of no such revolutionary joractices as that of getting up early in the morning. They "sleep o' nights." Indeed the English generally are famous sleepers. To lie abed late is recognized as a part of a sound, staid, conservative character. Such men are not dangerous. A friend who has travelled much in England, tells me that the greatest drawback to liis happiness, is that he cannot get anybody up in the morning! Such was our experience. We stepped on the stone quay, and made our way through the deserted streets to an inn. But here not a living creature was visible, not even a dog to bark at a wayworn traveller. We shouted lustily as Young America is apt to do, but could get no

20 SUMMER riCTUIlES.

reply. Soon a policeman appeared to check any signs of riot and revolution. Bat seeing we were but houseless travellers, he came to our help — he beat upon the door, he rang his club upon the pavement. At length a window opened above, and a head in a nightcap peered out into the court, and a shrill voice demanded wherefore was all this clatter? Our man-at-arms set forth that we were voyagers who had just come from off the stormy main, and had need of shelter and rest. Whereupon a light foot tripped down the stairs, the door was unbarred, and we were admitted to the warmth and comfort of an English inn.

In course of time we got a breakfast. But you don't expect me to enlarge upon that. You do not think me quite so " material." I wish I wasn't. But I must confess, after being two weeks on shipboard, sleej^ing on shelves, and dining on an inclined plane, it was no small comfort to be able to sit upright, and partake in peace of a quiet, civilized breakfast. This morning we were in the highest state of enjoyment. Indeed, we were like Adam and Eve in Paradise, in a state in which everything was pleasant to the eye, and good for food. We declared that the bread was the best that ever was baked, the butter the svreetest that ever was churned, and the cream the richest that ever came from good motherly cows. And then the hissing teapot, and the fine English breakfast tea ! Ah me, I fear I am growing " material." We were waited on by a trim little maid, with whom we

EIDE OX AN ENGLISH MAIL COACH. 21

fell in love on the spot, and made offers to take her to America. So we talked and laughed, and shouted and sang. Indeed ^ye didn't behave with any sort of propriety. But all the while we ke]3t on eating (of course from mere absence of mind). I thought we never should stop, and felt quite ashamed of our appetites. The only relief to our consciences was the satisfaction of paying a good round bill.

But all good things must come to an end, even the best of breakfasts, and that source of happiness being at length exhausted, we sallied forth to find t,he coach for Plymouth.

Falmouth, where we landed, is a little, quaint old town in the southwest corner of England, near the extremity of Cornwall. It is one of the few points in the island not yet touched by a railroad. One is being built, but it is not yet complete, so that we had before us the unexpected pleasure of a day's ride on an old-fashioned English coach. Coaches have almost disappeared in England. Even ten years ago, when I was here, I found them only in Wales, Scotland, and Ireland, and I little thought ever to see one again. It was therefore with a sense of keen delight that we mounted to the topmost seat, and saw the burly coachman rein in his mettled horses, that were prancing at the bit, and heard the guard wind his mellow horn.

To ride on the top of an English coach is an experience never to be forgotten. Dr. Johnson once said to Boswell, when they were thus perched in air and whirling over the country, "Life has few thmgs finer than this." So ^ye thought to-day. The distance from Falmouth to Plymouth is TO miles, which we made in seven hours. The coach, carrying the mail, is required by law to make ten miles an hour including stoppages. More often we were going at a speed of twelve. Up hill and down, the gait was never checked. It was generally the most rapid trot, but often it broke into a furious run. The only notice given of mounting a hill was an extra touch of the whip, which spurred the horses into a gallop, with which they dashed up the ascent, and as soon as they reached the summit, they plunged down in such mad career, that I griped the iron railing of the seat, trembling at the fearful speed. This swiftness of course could be kept up only over the finest roads in the world, and by frequent relays of horses. But the Queen's highway Avas like a floor newly swept. Not a pebble jarred the even poise of the coach. The horses were changed every seven miles, and where the road was hilly they were changed even in four. Thus v>'e went whirling over hill and dale, now rushing through towns and villages, the guard startling the inhabitants with his ringing blast, and then sallying out into the open country, which was smiling in all the beauty of early summer. To heighten the enjoyment, the day was one of a thousand. The skies were clear, only a few soft clouds shading us from the face of the sun. The hills and valleys glistened with fresh verdure ; the trim hedge-rows, the smooth la^ms

THE ATLANTIC TELEGRAPH EXPEDITION. 23

and noble parks were in their richest green. On such a clay and amid such landscapes we rode for seventy miles. This was our introduction to England.

In landing at Falmouth, I had another motive besides the mere eagerness to be on shore. I knew that the Telegraph Squadron was to rendezvous at Plymouth, and I thought it possible that I might meet there my brother Cyrus,* before the departure of the expedition. At Falmouth the Custom-house officer brought me the London Times, which announced that the shi23s had sailed a week before on a trial trip, but were to return to Plymouth. It was therefore a great satisfiction, as we drew to the end of our journey, and were just crossing the river which divides Cornwall from Devonshire, to learn that the ships had returned, and were then lying in the harbor. As we entered the town, I sprang from the coach and hastened to the Royal Hotel, to seek for tidings. Imagine my joy to be told that my brother was then in the house ! The Directors had come do^^Ti from London to complete the preparations for the expedition, and were now in session here. The servant had not the words out of his mouth, before he exclaimed, " There is Mr. Field now, coming through the hall !" The surprise and happiness of such a meeting can be understood only by those who have been alone and far from home, and who in a foreign land have suddenly rushed into a brother's arms. We had hardly

* Cyrus W. Field, widely known from his connection with the Atlantic Telegraph.

reached our room before we received an invitation to dine with the Directors, and in half an hour after our long ride, Ave were dressed and sitting at our first English dinner. Eight or ten gentlemen were 2:)resent, among them Mr. George Peabody, the well-known American banker; Mr. Brett, the father of submarine telegraphs in Europe ; Mr. Brooking, the vice-president of the company, and Mr. Saward, the secretary; Professor Thompson, of Glasgow, and Mr. Lampson, of London.

Such a party of capitalists, with immense business on their hands, you might think, would be very grave and anxious. But on the contrary, it was one of the merriest dinners at which I was ever present. An Englishman, however hard he may work, lays off all care at dinner, and these men, who had been at work all day, and might work all night, were now the most cheerful companions in the world. I sat next to Mr. Peabody, who was full of pleasant and friendly chat about England and America. When the dinner was ended, we left the directors to resume their deliberations, while we walked out to see the beauties of Plymouth, which, viewed from " the Hoe," a promenade on high ground overlooking the bay, with its ships and forts, appears a very picturesque city.

It was now Saturday evening, and Capt. Hudson called to invite us on board the Magara the next morning, with the special request that I should preach

THE ATLANTIC TELEGRAPH EXPEDITION. 25

to the officers and crew on the last Sabbath before they sailed to commence their great undertaking. The occasion was one of such interest, that tired as I was, I could not refuse. The caj^tain sent his boat, with a lieutenant and a dozen stalwart seamen to row us to the ship. Again the day was beautiful, and the water was like glass as we glided across the bay. Before us lay the whole telegraphic fleet, four noble ships destined in a few days to undertake one of the most stupendous enterprises ever attempted or conceived by man. A solemn religious serAace amid such surroundings could not but be deeply impressive. It seemed like the prayers of Columbus and his companions before they sailed from Spain. On the after-deck an awning was spread to shade us from the sun. A table, covered with the American flag, served for desk and pulpit. Before me sat the ofiicers of the ship, wdth several of the director and other scientific men; and behind, sitting upon cannon, and crowding every spot where a man could sit or stand, four or five hundred seamen. My heart was full. They were my countrymen. And yet we were in a foreign port. Around us were the hills and Avaters and fleets of England. At that moment I felt hoAV strong Avere the ties which bind us to the Old World as well as to the Ncav, and most devoutly did I pray that the connection which these ships were sent to establish between two hemispheres, might be a tie to bind them in close and peaceful union. Standing thus in the presence of two nations, it seemed appropriate, by humble and united worship, to acknowledge our obligations to Him, who has made both England and America what they are. It was an act most fitting to the hour, that we should bow together on those decks, and stretch out our hands to God, and implore His blessing on the work which we w^ere about to undertake. I opened to the 107th Psalm and read, " They that go down to the sea in ships, these see the works of the Lord, and his wonders in the deep." Then I spoke to the officers and sailors as men especially honored of God and of their country, by being chosen for this work of civilization. They were gomg on a missionary enterprise, to plant in the depths of the ocean a chord of ii'on, which should be vital as a chord of flesh, quivering with human Hfe and language, telling the thoughts of men and speaking the glory of God at the bottom of the sea, and I adjured them evermore to bear themselves as members of "a sacred band." Never had I a more attentive audience. The hardy tars bent forward and listened eagerly to catch every word, and the tear that fell on many a bronzed cheek, told that beneath that rugged breast there trembled a gentle and manly heart. I may travel over many lands, but such a scene surely I can never hope to see again.

After service, the captain took us back to the city. In crossing the harbor, we visited the Agamemnon. As we approached the ship, we found it surrounded by a

THE ATLANTIC TELEGRAPH EXPEDITION. 27

fleet of boats, which were filled with women ! The sea was alive with them. We asked what it meant, and were told that these were the wives and sweethearts of the sailors, who had come off to take leave of them, as this was the last Sunday that the ship was to be in port. Jack seemed to be j^lentifully supplied with friends of the other sex. They swarmed over the ship, clambering up the sides, crowding the decks, and looking out of the portholes.

Captain Preedy was standing at the side of the ship to receive us. As we touched the deck, he reached out his arm to Mrs. F., and led us off straight to his cabin, and gave us a hearty English welcome. It was pleasant to see the cordial relations which exist between the ofiicers of the two nations, and to mark the interest and ambition with which all enter uj^on their great work.

Before we left, Captain Preedy took us down into the hold of the ship to see the monstrous coils. He showed us one pile forty-six feet m diameter, and fiftCQii feet deep, in w^hich there w^ere 1,300 miles of cable ! Can such a chain ever be stretched across the wild ocean ? The undertaking seems almost above the power of man. Yet the preparations are on a corresponding scale of magnitude. All that human skill can do, is done, and the great result, on which so much depends, must now be left with that Being who spreadeth out the heavens, and ruleth the raging of the sea.

CHAPTER II. Dickens reading his Christmas Carol

" Was there ever a better Charity sermon preached in the world than Dickens' Christmas Carol ?"— Thackeray.

London, June lY, 1858.

As we were riding tip to London, we saw in the Times that Dickens was the next day to give a public reading of his Christmas Carol. So many happy hom-s had this writer afforded lis by our ot\ii cheerful fireside, in the far off Western World — as we sat alone on winter nights, just as he wishes his readers to be when they take in hand his stories — the fire blazing brightly on the hearth, and the ample curtains flowing to the floor, shutting out every sight without, and mufiling the sound of city streets — that we were curious to see him giving form and voice to one of his own delightful creations. Early in the morning I hastened to secure " stalls," as the best seats are called. The house Avas already full, but fortunately a party had just returned a couple of tickets, and so we succeeded in obtaining excellent places right in front of the platfi)rm. The reading was to begin at three, but it was an hour before that we took a " Hansom," and drove to St. Martin's Hall in Longacre. Already the rear of the hall was crowded, but the seats in front, bemg numbered and secured, filled more slowly. Vfhile waitmg, we amused ourselves in observing the audience, which included many persons of distinction. It was evident that we were surrounded by representatives of the fashionable society of London. Here were lords and ladies of high degree ; with members of parliament, and officers in the army, Avho had served in Crimean and Indian wars ; and who had turned out of the clubs at this morning hour, to sit under the spell of a man of genius. Yonder grey-headed old man, who totters across the room, is a noble duke. ^ That lady, Avith a long, red nose, who sits near the stage, at Mr. Dickens' feet, is Miss Burdett Coutts, the richest heiress in England — a lady who is very plain, but who makes up for the want of beauty by being very good. She is full of charitable deeds, having built I do not know how many churches, and endowed English bishoprics at the ends of the earth. The last of these was m British America, to the north of the Columbia River.