Nicaragua; past, present and future : a description of its inhabitants, customs, mines, minerals, early history, modern filibusterism, proposed inter-oceanic canal and manifest destiny

Front matter

UBRARY OF CONGRESS

DDDDS5T134A m

I •

Preface

I HAVE written a current History of Mcaragua, a Guide Book; and furnished in a succinct form, informatioU; Geographical, Topographical, and Statistical. My residence in the country afforded me great facilities for comparing and verifying the authorities consulted, and the results of my observations and deductions are comprised in the present volume.

The Past of every Province of the Spanish Americas, abounds with interest to the student as well as the general reader; and "El Paraiso de Mahoma" has a

8 PREFACE.

I have penned my pages with a view solely to merit the respect of the Public, having neither varnished nor tarnished a subject, at present vital to my own country ; and I feel assured, that I have not been led astray by the garbled statements of those, whose interests may have suffered from causes, which have not exercised, in the remotest degree, an atom of influ.ence upon me.

Petee F. Stout.

Philadelphia, February, 1859.

Chapter I

PAOB Extent — Geographical Position — ^Volcanoes^Lakes — Managua and Nicaragua — Rivers — The Rio San Juan — Trailing "Vines — Alligators — Monkeys — Rapids — The Castillo and Machuca — Climate — Temperature — An Incident 17

Chapter II

Districts — ^Population — Towns, Population — Granada, its Architecture, Churches, Streets, Carts, "Washing and Washer-women — San Carlos, the Commandante'a House, the Old Fort, the Castom House — Lake Nicaragua — Rio Frio — La Boqueta Islands — Virgin Bay and the adjacent Country — San Miguelito — San Jorge, its Parochial Church — Road to Rivas 26

Chapter III

Eivas — The Plaza — Market — Senoritas — Early History — Gil Gonzales de Avila — The arrival of the Spaniards — Nicaragua — Rodrigo de Contreras — Hernandez — The Capture of the Country — Country ahout Rivas — Business — Samoza, the Rebel Chief — Hotel and Eating — Church of San Francisco — Bust of "Washington — Henry Clay — Price of Land — Stores and Trade — Living, Beef, etc. — Manner of Cooking —Stoves— Wood S3

Chapter IV. Paqb

Old Statues— The Old Convent— The Parochial— The Body of the Virgin— The Padre and the Californian — A Wager — The Kesiilt — La Mercedes — San Juan de Dios — The Government House — Hotels and prices of Board — The Cuartel — The Troops — The Band — The Music — Funerals — Grave-Yard — Burning Bones — Instruments of Music — Dress — Prices of Clothing — Hats — Shoes — Eents of Houses —The Good Old Eule 41

Chapter V

Eivas — The Homhre — Leoneze — Aztecs — Their Monuments — Between Eivas and Granada — Obraje — Gil Gonzales — A Luxury — Snakes — Hints for those going to Nicaragua — Boa Coustrictors — Tigres — Tigre Negro — Mountain Cats — Coyote — Bats — The Californian's Purchase — The Chamorro Estate — Troops — Muskets — Colt's Eevolvers — Enrolling Soldiers— Monopolies — Incident in Managua — A Flogging 43

Chapter VI

Eio Ochomogo— Old Structure — Adobe Buildings : their Strength — Old Indigo Plantation — Nandyme — Horseflesh — Prices — Gaits — Horsemanship — Momobacho — Its Ascent — Gold Mine — Lake on the Summit — Pruits on the Eoad-Side — Diriomo — Old Statue — Landmarks — Corn Estates — Ancient Indigo Plantations — Fields of Volcanic Matter — Granada — The Alerte — Musical Analysis — Sympathy — The Salve Eegina — The Transparency — Strange Effect — Home and a Hammock 55

Chapter VII

The Houses of Nicaragua — Size — Appearance — Adobes — Size — Form — Material — Cement — Wells — Water — Money, value of — Trade — Bongoes — National Vessels — The Orus and Director Steamers — Manners and Customs — Belfry of La Mercedes — The Sharpshooter — His Death — Sandoval's Estate — Indigo Plantation — The Lake — Oranges and Mangoes — Corn — Sacate — Pine-apples — Jocotes — A beautiful Estate — Cost — Intemperance — Virtues — Cloths — Socks — Sickness — Physic and Law 62

Chapter VIII

Religious Festivals — St. James' Day — San Ignatius de Loyola — Transit of the Virgin — The Corpus — St. Peter and the Holy Keys — Images — Santa Theresa — Cochineal Plantations — Mode of Culture and Preparation of it for Market — Coffee — Its Cultivation — Sugar — Indigo — Amount of Harvest — Tobacco — Amount Eaised — Profits — Gunpowder and other Government Monopolies — Articles of Manufacture — Artificers in Gold and Silver — Opposite Granada — Cattle Estates — Catching Cattle- The Peta-Hiiija— Figs and Olives— A Hint.... 71

Chapter IX. Page

The Malaccas — Cultivation of the Cacao — Desci-iption of a Cacao Estate — An Ugly- Fissure outside Granada — A Shock of an Earthquake — Speculations in case of Emergency — Lake Poyo — Delightful Jaunt — A Lake Como — A Cup of Tiste — Its Use — Productions of the Country — Cigars — Maize — Aguardiente — Effects of not to be mistaken — Wheat — Minerals — Gold, Silver, and Copper Mines of Depilta — The Chontales Mining Districts— JLatagalpa — Paynter — The Central States — Their Mines — Account of Honduras and San Salvador — Costa Kica — Coal — Want of Machinery, Means, and Enterprise 80

Chapter X

Beyond Granada — A View — Indian Mother and her Load — The Conquerors— My Opinion — Masaya — The Plaza — The Church — Stores and Manufactures — Fine Hats, Prices — Hammocks — Provisions — Extent of the Town — Dogs and Buzzards — Country beyond the Town — Nindiri — Its Church — Cool Shade — its Oranges — Another Pine View — Mai Pais, a road of Lava — Eio Tipitapa and the Lakes — Something from Oviedo — An Oasis — A Drink, and a Swing in a Hammock — Entrance into Managua — Whom we met — City by Moonlight — Nihapa — Indian Temple — A Sell — Difference of Opinions about it — Other Lakes — ^Washer- women again — ^Ancient History — Senoritas 96

Chapter XI

Managua — Its Inhabitants — Serviles and Liberals — Historical Interludes — Education — The Fathers of Eld — Bigotry — Ecclesiastics — An Ancient Carving — Padre Yigil — Keligious Ceremonies — The Indians — Squier's Assertions relative to the Mosquito Indians — History again — Ideas about Migration — Antique Stones (Piedras Antiguas) — The Confessors of the Conquest 106

Chapter XII

Idols — Good Teeth — Cigaritas — Universal Use — A Primitive People — A Clean Breast of several Matters — A Visit with the Consul-General of the United States — An Interesting Domestic Group — Eecognition of a well-known Voice— rComforts not Expected — Country about the City— Fruits — Fields — Cooks — Society — Our Posada — Biographical Sketch of Chamorro — Also of Jose Trinidad Munoz — Outside of Managua — On our Tour Again — Scouts — New Eoad over the Mountain — Narrow Path — An Incident by the Way -side — Glimpses of the Country — Outposts Ahead, and our Preparation 116

Chapter XIII. Page

Mateares— Population— Appearance— The House of our Host— Our Exit— Our Pass — Lake Managua — A Hot Sun and an Infernal Eoad — A Hut at hand — A Friend in Need — A Stream— A Halt— A Bath— Nagarote— A Posada— The Land— Host and Hostess— Musquitoes — Attempt to Sleep— Fare — Frijoles, Tortillas, and Aguardiente— Pleasant Kide, and an Early Start— Beautiful Appearance of the Country — X)eer — Eoads — Fields of Maize — Sunrise — Cocoa-nuts — Palms and Calabashes — Cane Huts and Trim Gardens — Fine Cactus — Pueblo Nuevo, and a Posada — Our Meal— Beyond the Village— Features of the Country— Soil and Timber— The Plain of Leon — Ditches — Huts — Nine Volcanoes — Glimpse of the Cathedral — Gaudelupe — City in the distance — Evidences of an anticipated Sally on our Entrance — Our Posada — Cup of Cacao — Inhabitants — Legacies of the Conquerors — The Troops — Dragoons — Eainy Season — Our Host 126

Chapter XIV

Historical Interlude— Location of Leon— Euined Houses— The Plain— Suburbs- Cane Huts— Pirates in 16S5—Eevolutions— The Cathedral— Its Size, Cost, Description—The Interior— The Organ— The Great Altar— Portraits— Confessional Chairs — Gallery— View from the Eoof— College of St. Eamon— The Episcopal Palace — The Cuartel— The Government House— La Merced— Ca>lvario— Eecollection— Statues— Subtiaba— Plaza and Cathedral— Altars— Market of Leon— Fruits— Trade —Stores and Merchants— The Bishop's Baths— Paraiso de Mahoma— Climate— The Bishop — His Carriage — Mr. Squier — A View from the Eoof of San Pedro — Baptism of a Volcano— Plain of Leon— Earthquakes— A Visit to General Munoz— His Attendants— A Tete-k-tete— A Word or Two— His Eesidence and Family 137

Chapter XV

City of Leon— History— Decree of Annexation to the United States— Constitutiou Adopted— Abolishment of Papal Bulls, Monasteries— Abridgment of certain Ecclesiastical Privileges— The National Flag— The Bishop, Archbishop, and his Holiness the Pope— Various Wars— General Morazan—Carrera—Malespin— Capture of San Juan by the English— Samoza— A Knight— His Eevolution— Capture and Death— Death of Muiioz— President Pineda's Summary Eemoval— Walker— A Change comes over Nicaragua— Thoughts and Speculations 147

Chapter XVI

Leon— Subtiaba— Country— Quesalguaque— The Descent— Fruits— Posultega— Chi chigalpa— Population— Country and Fruits— A Pleasant Eide— A Choice Estate— Chinandega- Its Commerce and Inhabitants— Old Chinaudega— Bad Eoad to Realejo— Eealejo— Its Harbor— Custom House— Depth of Water— Docks and Warehouses— Cardon— San Juan del Sur— Location— Size— Harbor Improvements —The Papagayas—Brito— Country between San Juan and Virgin Bay— Eoads

PAaE in Kaiuy Season — Virgin Bay again — Wharf— Transit Company — Rio Tipitapa — Paso Chico — Falls of Ti]iitapa — Depth of tlie River — Rio Grande — Snrface of Lalie Managua — Distance from Realejo — Clioutales — Products- — Minerals — Woods —Animals — Laud — Streams — Cattle — Advice and Reflections. .v 155

Chapter XVII

Greytown — Topography — Extent of Mosquito Territory — Indian Tribes — ^Pope's Bull — Spain's Claim and England's, also Nicaragua's — Whose is Valid? — Coronation of a Mosquito King — His Dress — The Dress of his Chiefs — English Officers — The King's dignified manner of expressing himself — Baptism — Supper and Eiuale to the Farce — Grant to the Shepherds — Their Title — Conveyance to the Central Ajnerican Company — Issuing of Stock — Objects of the Company 166

Chapter XVIII

Bluefields — The Mosquito King — The Shepherd Grant denied upon various grounds — England Plays her Hand — Colonel Kinney — His Trials and Hardships — Denounced as a Fillibuster — His Expedition. — Wrecking of his Vessel — Arrival at Greytown — Burning of Greytown prior to his Arrival — Results and Alleged Cause — ^President Pierce's Declaration of War — The Muse of History — Colonel Kinney Elected Governor — Preamble and Resolutions of the New Government — Constitution — Officers Elected — The Central American Company at a Discount — Kinney's Resignation — His Visit to Granada and expulsion thence — Walker's Empty Boast — Sale of the Grant to the Mormons 174

Chapter XIX

Inhabitants of the Mosquito Coast — Their Wealth — Climate — Introduction of Religion — Their own Belief — Burial of their Dead — Products of the Coast — Turtle — Birds — Fish — Animals — Vines — Trees and Woods — Rivers — Exploration of Indian Elver by the Golden Club — A Beautiful Country — Magnificent Forests — Black River — Gold — Indian River again — Shepherd's Ranche — Grand Falls — Prospecting for Gold — Success — Droves of Wild Hogs — No Country for Snakes — Captain Wilkinson's Party — ^Prospecting again — Rich Results 183

Chapter XX

War in the Interior — United States Marshal in a Fix — Arrival of Gen. Walker — Battle of Virgin Bay — Defeat of Guardiola — Subsequent Battles — Walker's Triumphant Entry into Granada — Treason and its Punishment — Schlessinger Surprised at Guanacaste — Charged with Treachery — His Trial, Condemnation, Flight, and Sentence of Death — Battle of Rivas — Walker again Victorious — Inauguration of

■ Chamorro — A Nine Months' Siege — His Death — Estrada his Successor — Padre Vigil's Letter to Mr. Marcy — My Opinion — Henningsen's Glorious Defense of Granada — Attack on San Jorge — Gallant Conduct of Capt. Higby — San Jorgo

PAGB

again — The Cannonade — Sharp Operation of the Costa Ricans — Capture of Castillo — English and American Officers — ^What Walker had to Contend with— Evacuation of the Country— Official Eeport of Walker's Force— The Results of the In-

Chapter XXI

Walker's Contemplated Second Invasion of Nicaragua— Senors Yrisarri and Molina —Their Letter to Secretary Cass— What they think Walker will do— What they hope the United States will do— Circular of Secretary Cass— Calls on the Officials — Expects them to do their Duty — Walker Speaks— Apologises for doing so— Claims to he the Lawful Executive of Nicaragua — Does not want any Interference from Costa Eica and Guatemala— Denies Violating any Act of Congress— Senor Yrisarri again — Wants the American Government to do the Eight Thing — Talks Hard about Walker— Says the Fillibusters are nothing but Pirates— Cannot Deceive the Central Americans, and wonders at -the Impudence of the Man of Destiny 211

Chapter XXII

A Promise Pulfilled— General Henningsen's Letter to Secretary Cass — His Commission from President Walker— What he says about Walker's Election— His Permanency as a Euler — His Solicitude for the Soldiery— An Appeal to the President of the United States— Thinks Captain Davis did not do the Right Thing— What President Mora did — What General Walker did — How long the Invaders were kept from Investing Rivas — How they attempted at various times to Storm the Place — How anxious they eventually became to keep out — Position of Besiegers and Besieged on the First of May — What Walker Expected to Do, and How he was Going to Do it— What Captain Davis Did, and the Way he Did it— How it Affected Walker's Plans— The Schooner Granada seized and handed over to the Costa Ricans- The Guatemala Navy puts to Sea and Murders Captain Lilly 222

CHAPTER XXm.

Nicaragua Threatens to Suspend the Transit— Her Preamble and Decrees— Lieut. Almy applies for Instructions — Supposes a Case in which Fillibusters figure Largely — Delicate Points growing out of it— Does not wish to Compromise our Government- Secretary Toucy Posts him up — Says he must Prevent Fillibusters from Landing— Commodore Paulding heard from— Says Hard Things about Walker and his Men — Considers his Reasons quite Sufficient for sending the Fillibusters home — Refuses any Co-operation of other Powers — Walker Gives his Parole of Honor — Goes Home at his own Expense — Gives himself up to Marshal Rynders — Sefior Yrissarri writes to Mr. Cass — Says Nicaragua Confirms the Contract with the Transit Company — Thanks the United States for taking Walker away — Thinks she did the Handsome Thing — Wants his Letter Published 235

Chapter XXIV. Paoh

Landing of Columbus on the Mosqiiito Shore — Are the Mosquitoes an Independent Natiou ? — What Viscount Palmerston says about it — The Clayton and Bulwor Treaty — Conflicting Views as to its Construction — The English Charge d'Affaires to the Government of Nicaragua — A Eunning Fire of Gasconade — The same OflUcial on Boundary Lines — What Bonnycastle says — Treaties of Peace, Boundaries and Commerce between Great Britain and Spain — What an Old English Author says — Motion to Censure in the House of Lords — Eefusal — The Samboes — Probable Origin of the Mosquito Name — The Mosquito Shore completely Evacuated — The Samboes in a Eeal Estate Operation — The Dog in the Manger — • Eevolted Negroes from St. Domingo — The Productions of the Mosquitoes — Belize — Its Armorial Bearings — Surplice Hbes 247

Chapter XXV

The Mosquito Coast again — Usurpations of England — Claims of Spain — Independence of Guatemala — England's Acknowledgments — The Colony of Bay Islands — Conflicting Claims — An Act of the English Parliament — The Treaty of 1850 — The Protectorate Eiction and Lord John Exxssel — The United States and Great Britain — Lord Clarendon's Argument — Mr. Clayton as Eendered by Mr. Lawrence — Lord Clarendon again — Mr. Webster Misconstrued — Lord John Eussel to the Point 260

Chapter XXVI

"The Inter-Oceanic Canal — Charter for the Transit Eoute — Synopsis of its Provisions — Its Importance to the United States — Postulate of President Monroe — British Interference — Nicaragua Protests — The Clayton and Bulwer Treaty Mooted — Mr, Eives to Lord Palmerston — Eeply of the Latter — Cardinal Points of the Treaty- Treaty of Commerce and Friendship with Nicaragua — The Canal Company's Charter Amended — Leoneze Protest — Save Me from My Friends ! — Vive La Champagne! — The Canal in Nubibus — The Transit Tangible 272

Chapter XXVII

Kivas Revokes the Transit Company's Charter — What Nicaragua Claims in the Matter — The Eeply Thereto — What the United States and Nicaragua Agreed to Do — What Eivas Did and the Eemedies therefor — The Cass and Trisarri Treaty — What President Buchanan says — Wants an Armed Force to Protect the Transit — What the Postmaster-General says — Importance to Foreign Eesidents of keeping the Eoute Open — Monsieur Belly Negotiates for a Eoute — Eemarks of the French Press thereon — Christopher Columbus, Baron Humboldt, and Louis Napoleon on Inter-Oceanic Communications — Overland Eoute — Gen. Cass on the Intervention of Foreign Powers — The Policy of the American Continent 28

CHAPTER

PAQH

A Dash at Political History— Extent and Population of Guatemala— How It was Governed nnder Spain— Her Liberality and its Abuse by the Mother Country — Discontent and Insurrections — Independence Declared — Gainza chosen President

A General Congress Called — Constitution — Subdivision into States — Population

and Capitals— Boundaries of the United Provinces— The Legislative Power— State Eegulations — National Flag and its Devices— The Dream of the Castilian 30G

Chapter XXIX

Origin of the Mexicans— Emigration— The Six Tribes— Their Portunes and Misfortunes — Found the City of Mexico— Elect a King — Montezuma the Elder— Montezuma the Younger — Coming of the Spaniards — Guatemozin — Cort6s — Dies of a Broken Heart — His Eemains — Title and Estates — Blood of the Montezumas — Pizarro— Title, Estates, and Descendants— His Eemains — One of his Fingers in Baltimore — The Holy Cross — Montezuma a Deity— El Paraiso de Mahoma 312

Chapter XXX

Cortes in Search of the Strait— What Oviedo thought— Alvarado in Search of it— Christoval de Olid— The Secret to make Charles the Fifth Lord of the World- All the Maritime Nations of Europe trying to Penetrate it— Spain Eager on the Subject— Balboa Eevels in Gold and Gems— Suffers as a Traitor— Pedro Arias— The Conquerors of Mexico and Peru— Mutual Astonishment— Speculation still Eife as to the Strait— The Secret yet in Embryo— Five Points of Transit— Objections to a Ship Canal— Advantages of a Eailway— Estimates and Eemarks , 332

Chapter XXXI

Cardinal Sources of a Nation's Greatness- The Future of Nicaragua-Contains all the Elements of Wealth— Must Awake or Sleep Forever— A Vigorous Eepublic on the Wing— The Great Nations of the East— Halls of the Montezumas— The Eepublics of the Great Southern Continent— California a Vast National Mart — Sau Francisco the Constantinople of the Americas — Gold Hunters of the Conquest — Mountains never Keep Accounts— The Great Pacific Eailway— The Present Mail Route— Trade of Asia— Our Continent— Ship Canal— Great Britain versus the United States 345

Chapter XXXII

The Castilian Conquest— The Eomance of the Fifteenth Century- Conflicting Opinions — Mexico — Senator Houston's Proposition — Brautz Mayer — Abbe Muliua — Want of Coulidence Illustrated— Nicaragua as it is— Prescott — What Spain was under Ferdinand and Isabel — What she is Now — Causes of a Nation's Else or Fall— Destiny of the United States— One of Wealth and Universal Redemption... 368

NICARAGUA.

ITS PAST, PRESENT, AND FUTURE,

Chapter I

EXTENT — OEOGRAPHICAL POSITION — VOLCANOES — LAKES — MANAaXTA AND NIC- ARAGUA — RIVERS— THE RIO SAN JUAN — TRAILING VINES — ALLIGATORS — ■

MONKEYS RAPIDS — THE CASTILLO AND MACHUOA — CLIMATE TEMPERATURE

AN INCIDENT.

The Republic of Nicaragua is embraced entirely between 83^ and 88° west longitude from G-reenwich, or 6° and 11° west from Washington, and between 9° 30' and 15° of north latitude, with an area of between fifty and sixty thousand square miles, being about seven times the extent of Massachusetts. It is bounded by the Caribbean Sea on the east ; on the west by the Pacific Ocean ; north, by the river Yanks, or Segovia, 2 (11)

and partly by the river Koman ; and south by Costa Rica — or, as this is a mooted point, we may add, its southern boundary, separating it from Costa Kica, runs in a right line from the mouth of the river Salto de Nicoya to the lower mouth of the Rio San Juan. Its geographical position, having a fine harbor, the town of Greytown, or San Juan, on the Atlantic, and other fine harbors on the Pacific, fully entitles this small State to the consideration of statesmen and the mercantile world, and has won for it its motto " The vast gate of the twin sea.^^ The great chain of Cordilleras diverges in two ranges, and all the streams upon the southern side fall into the lakes Managua and Nicaragua, or into the Rio San Juan. The Pacific range, in volcanic cones, follows the general direction of the coast, gradually settling to low hills and plains. The principal cones are Momotombo, Momobacho, Ometepec, Madeira, with those of Yiejo, Santa Clara, Axusco, Orosi, Abogado, together with others less remarkable, yet known not alone as landmarks, and as beautiful natural structures, but as being the traditional depots of great hidden wealth.

There are two remarkable and beautiful inland lakes : that of Managua, erroneously called Leon, and Nicaragua ; the former being about fifty-five miles long by thirty-five in width, ranging from two to thirty-five fathoms deep. The mountains of Matagalpa, rich with silver, gold, lead, and other minerals, on the northern and eastern shores, margin with

LAKES MANAGUA AND NICARAGITA. 19

^ondrons beauty this quiet basin, while Momotombo, from whose lofty peak I watched thin clouds of smoke wreathing upward, relieved by the dark gray morning sky, rises, grandly, in its bosom ; Momotombita, a fit companion, stands in bold relief, so beautifully artistic in design and character, that it wins an involuntary exclamation from us as, on the beach, we gaze far up its shaggy ascent.

The Lake Nicaragua is about one hundred and ten miles long by thirty-five to sixty miles in breadth, and every variety of depth may here be fathomed. This sheet of water is the most beautiful of any I ever saw ; and yet within its depths the rapacious shark fins his way along, and the timid mariner witnesses waterspouts, and experiences the most sudden, dangerous squalls met with in any water on the globe. Its sole outlet is the Kio San Juan. During the months of October, November, December, and January, the prevailing winds are from the northeast, and the waves of the lake scud angrily upon the beach, dashing the spray, broadcast, in refreshing showers. At such seasons, travelers, desirous of journeying from the south, experience much difficulty in getting off in the small schooners heretofore exclusively used between Granada and the ports south of it — San Jorge and Tirgin Bay. Indeed, I have known parties who have been delayed two weeks, yet endeavoring, perhaps frequently during the day, to launch their boats, but ere their sails would fill, the breakers, rushing shoreward, would drive the boats high and dry upon the beach. It was formerly supposed from this, that there was an ebb and flow to the lake, and judging at such seasons, a stranger would be convinced that it was no dream, but an actual reality. The streams known as the San Carlos and Serapaqui, flow into the Kio San Juan, with numerous others bordering it. This river is from one hundred yards to a quarter of a mile wide, from one to twenty-five feet deep, and about ninety-one miles long, margined by heavy underbrush and fine timber ; while the bank on either side is so heavily screened with trailing vines, that at various places it is impenetrable to the eye. I have seen a single one, climbing up a gigantic Trumpet-tree, wreathe round its top, cover it, then falling gracefully in myriads of clusters resembling the various jets of a fountain, reach terra firma, then clasp another tree, and so on until one would almost imagine the Banyan before him. Upon its shores, and on the many sand islets, is seen reposing, in fancied and blest security, like a fat millionaire, the swarthy alligator ; and leaping from tree to tree, and shriekingly from vine to vine, are countless monkeys — some short-tailed, others long, ring-tailed, others no-tailed, cropped off short, regular bob-tails.\

For calm, quiet beauty, the Rio San Juan is pre-eminent, and will retain numberless charms for the tourist's eye, even should the axe of the settler ring through the wilderness on

THE RAPIDS — MACHUCA AND CASTILLO. 21

its banks. There are various rapids in the ascent, viz. : the Machucha, the Castillo, the Tauro, the Cow, and the Calf. The Machucha Rapids take their name from Captain Diego, Machuca, who, in 1529, explored the river. They are by no means entitled to the name, but may better be designated as an eddy, for here the river bends, and the current is swift, indeed very swift, yet navigable for stern-wheel boats without much difficulty. The Castillo Kapids — where the old castle frowns from its height of one hundred feet or more above, are truly such, yet far from equaling those on the St. Lawrence Kiver, and others elsewhere. They appear to have been formed by art, rather than Nature. Large loose stones obstruct the river, and the swift current roars through the interstices, seeming at a short distance to be indeed very formidable ; yet I, with others, in 1850, endeavored to haul a stern-wheel iron steamer up them, and should have succeeded, had the banks been firm, or had we had a stump around which to trail our hawsers. Our feet slipped, the current swept the boat down — down over the rapids. Being of iron, she bounded from rock to rock, and after sweeping perhaps one hundred yards down the current, ran safely ashore on the opposite bank.

It requires but little valor to brave these rapids ; and the heart of a sailor throbs lightly and easily under his jacket, as he steers his craft into the stream, and mounts the noisy little bubbles. Fort St. Juan, called also the Castle of Neustra Senora, surmouuts the hill at the Castillo Kapids, on the left in ascending the river. It is now in a state of decay ; but in its earlier days it had a small battery, mounted with thirty-six guns, whose platform was level with the water, the whole enclosed on the land side by a ditch and rampart. The garrison consisted of one hundred infantry, sixteen artillery-men, and sixty militia, and was also provided with guard-boats, which were rowed up and down the river every night. The fort was provisioned from Granada ; and six months stores were always stowed away in the capacious under-ground garners.

There is a variety of climate in Nicaragua, the heat being less on the Pacific than the Atlantic coast. On the former, the rainy season sets in in the early part of May ; and with the exception or intervention of fifteen or twenty days in July and the beginning of August, continues till October, and in ^ some sections till November. During the remainder of the year an occasional shower refreshes the heated air, sufficient only to glaze the parched leaves — yet in this dry season, fine fruits are in abundance ; and although the crisp grass and wilted leaves evidence drought, or in fact, correspond to our winter, yet with the difference in mid-day, there is no great change in the temperature. The interior is cooler than the coast by about 14^ Fahrenheit. On the Atlantic, rains fail

ITS TEMPERATURE. 23

throughout the year with considerable uncertainty ; the driest season is from June to October; the wettest from that to May.

From daybreak to 10 A. M., in this country, is always pleasant, and a ride on horseback is enjoyed; from 10 A. M. to 4 P. M. the heat is intense, so much so, that the population are generally swinging in their casas in their hammocks, save the mariners and washer-women, who are sprinkled over the lake beach at Managua and Granada ; from 4 P. M. the temperature is modified by the coming on of night. There seems scarcely a pause between the bright glare of the sun and the mellow rays of the moon : twilight being a dream, or mayhap a memory of a far- distant land. ■

\The evenings are delightfully agreeable, and the air pure, so much so, that a party conversing in the usual key, may be interpreted at the distance of a square, and I have frequently been able to follow the air of some serenader, distant at least three-fourths of a mile. /

The rainy season is the most pleasant, the thermometer ranging from Y8° to 88*^, rarely below Y2° in the night, and rising to 90° in the afternoon. At Granada, in June, 82° ; in Leon, in July, August and September, 83° ; and a strong breeze sweeps from the lake, rendering the nights just such as guarantee refreshing sleep. In the dry season, in January, the temperature is less occasionally cool j every thing is filled with dust ; clouds of grasshoppers sweep over the forests, devour the leaves of the trees and vines, and leave a ghostly picture of desolation and aridity behind. I remember, during a ride from the little Indian village of Nindiri to Managua, in company with several friends, meeting a host of these rapacious banditti. We were in the midst of a forest; a cloud seemed to hang over our heads ; a rattling among the dried leaves of the trees attracted our attention, resembling sand thrown on blotting-paper, though louder. Wherever we turned, there this living cloud extended. We found, upon reaching the outskirt of the woods, that an immense body of grasshoppers were winging past us, leaving leafless bushes, trees, and a trail of barren, poverty-stricken herbage. We pushed forward, in a fast walk, and judging by the time occupied, we estimated this moving mass to have been at least four miles long by three miles in breadth. This is not aa uncommon visit, nor do I over-estimate the extent of this described party of insects.