Halcyon days in Norway, France, and the Dolomites

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III 15

O'er Land and Sea. I 60

I

The wind, cold and cheerless, blowing furiously, — the sky everywhere obscured by great heavy lowering bands of leaden clouds ; — in the east a break in the gloomy expanse revealing the everlasting daylight beyond ; — such was the ominous outlook as we slowly worked our way out from the protected harbor of Trondhjem, into the black waters of the broad fjord at ten o"* clock in the evening of July 20th on our way to the North Cape ! Such departure upon a trip to which clear weather can alone give the coveted sight of the Midnight Sun and the comfort of surroundings so indispensable to full enjoyment of the peculiar scenery of the ISTorwegian coast, would have been discouraging and depressing, had not the weather for a week past, been so fickle and contradictory. Even this last day commenced ■ with a hopeless dress of heavily laden clouds that looked the commencement of a prolonged storm. Yet by noon the sky was blue and well-nigh cloudless, and the atmosphere warm and delightful, apparently the beginning of settled weather. But in the evening it clouded up again. The first ten or twelve hours is said to possess but little interest.

We sat for an hour in a sheltered place and watched the tempestuous sea and the wild rock-bound coast, darkened our windows to shut the dayliglit out at eleven p. m. — and so ended the first of the eight eventful days. With droll consideration we were informed that in the early morning we would be exposed to the swell of the sea, and happy were they who believing, remained below. But by nine A. M., we were under the protection or within the broken barrier of islands and rocks and all was serene and lovely. Some years ago an employe at the charming Luray Inn, Virginia, was asked if there was a comfortable hotel farther down the road at Eoanoke. " Oh, yes,^^ he replied, " one of the Company^s and like this ; " adding with the supremo contempt and supercilious patronage of a rival, " but there is nothing there but scenery I " Very truthfully could this rather crude remark be applied to this trip in search of the Midnight Sun, especially when clouds and mists persistently veil and hide the glorious orb, at the critical moments. The coast of Korway is unique, — a sort of Thousand Islands stretched along a good thousand miles or more, but with the added charm of bold and varied mountain scenery such as one scarcely expects to find outside of peerless little Switzerland. The guide-book, glibly records that ^^ the coast is protected by a natural barrier, a/r^?^^e of islands." It is however, a rather uneven and irregular fringe, the kind which in dress materials would be quickly relegated to needy friends or cheerfully sent to church for missionary boxes !

A cruise along the rugged and varied coast impresses one, as the days go by, with the fact that Norway must have been around when mountains, rocky islands, tiny islets and endless waters were given out. From the immense variety of forms and the tumbled irregular appearance, it looks as if she must have accepted a ^'^job lot" and has never been really able to assort or put them in order ! Mountain scenery is much the same the world over, the preponderance of certain forms and outlines alone giving a local character. But along this sea-caressed, storm-swept coastline, literally every form is seen, — the great rounded mound with its long gracefully sloping sides, — the tent like contour, — the lofty Gothic pinnacles, — the lance-like Aiguilles, — the stately castellated forms and the billowy rounding range, so full of life and motion. The islands are numberless and vary in size from a few feet to miles. The skies grew fairer, the clouds more luminous, and yet all day the heavy rainfalls were somewhere visible in the distance. We knew this day would reveal none of the greater wonders of the trip, but there was so much that was novel and enchanting we were in perpetual delight. We sat by the hour in the bow of the vessel and just loohed I Islands there were to the right of us, islands to the left, and along the horizon a tumbled mass of purple, violet, amethyst, and blue, mingled with gold, gray- and bronze-green, — the endless line of low-lying mountains in the suppressed light. At times a bold headland, oftener a ragged, tumul-

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tuous outline of low mountains, bare of trees, save a few stunted shrubs at base, but with green of moss-like turf in patches to their very summits. But oh ! the glory and beauty, the mystery and impressiveness of the bold yet soft gradation of color in those heavy, cloud-like banks, with which we were encompassed all the day long ! Sometimes a foreground of dull gray rocks, and through an opening in an apparently land-locked bay, great boulders glittering and flashing in the sunlight. Again, great deep purple mountains like sentinels, and seen between them in the beyond, a low mass of sapphire blue. Once in a great while a little house would be seen. It was impossible, though, to shake off the sense of extreme solitude and loneliness, the consciousness that these great mountain piles and rocky masses lie here ahuays, year after year, basking in the sunlight, enveloped in mists and wreathed in storm clouds, while the crowd of tourists just come and go. Delighted as we were, it struck ns as a little comical to see a young Englishman in full regulation tourist dress, knickerbockers, large plaid stockings and all, perched in the best place in the bow, but never for an hour lifting his eyes from a French papercovered novel ! Hour after hour, like shifting scenes upon a stage with kaleidoscopic change and panoramic variety, the rocky shores, islands and strange groupings of the mountains in many a little inlet passed rapidly before us. Every moment was so full ! Before you can really grasp exquisite outline or glowing color the ceaseless movement and changing positions of the vessel opens something else equally novel or breathless, the gray rocks close in, a narrow gateway discloses a vista of bold jagged heights, with soft storm wreaths, mysterious and strange, and looking backward behold ! as far as eye can reach, a new paradise of island after island, mountain beyond mountain, permeated with the wondrous blue and amethystine tints.

In minor fjords the waters, mirror-like, reflected the great rocks and hills, while all around us the waves were touched with white caps. How marvellous it all seemed, seen from the deck of a steamer ! While a part would be all glowing wi fch color or sunshine, of the mountain tops here and there it could be said, " Clouds and darkness are around about them." Anon, we came into a broad, lake-like expanse of perfectly smooth waters, with enchanting distant adamantine walls dyed with blue of sapphire and purple of amethyst. Lifting the eyes in opposite direction, away off against the blue sky and banks of pearly clouds, rose most strikingly a mass of brown and russet with deep indenture like a gateway to the cloud-land beyond. It was novel and strange, because seen from such standpoint, and enchanting, because never had we seen such wealth, delicacy and exuberance of exquisite color. For a while our attention was riveted upon a curious and most picturesque mountain pile, in form strikingly like a huge, high-crown, wide-brimmed hat, floating upon the surface of the deep. This resemblance has given it the name of " Torghattan,"

or market hat. As we neared it, the steamer anchored in a little cove, the boats were lowered and all who wished went ashore for two hours. Few were left behind, for through this monumental mountain there is a wonderful natural tunnel. Seen from a distance the effect is most peculiar? for half-way up the dark frowning face, apj^ears an aperture, through which is discerned the blue sky and warm sunshine beyond. It Avas quite a walk and climb to the base of the pyramid or cone, through the very heart of which, pierced by some unknown power, is the opening, said to be two hundred and three feet in centre and two hundred and forty-six feet at one end in height, with a width of perhaps thirty or forty feet. The sides are almost perpendicular, the roof hangs in jagged broken outlines and the way is clear of debris. Nor is there at either end little suggestion of what has become of that which has been sculptured out. The way up is such a winding one that until the opening is reached little idea is gained of the surprise awaiting one. In an instant, as one surmounts the last pile of boulders, through the great opening is seen, fitly framed, a picture of rare beauty of the smooth sea beyond, at that moment silvery and glittering, dotted with numerous rocky islets. The view from this elevation in every direction was enchanting, for it swept over a broad expanse of waters, numerous picturesque bays running way up into the coastline, countless islands, diversified shore boundary and a billowy horizon of glorious mountains fairly dissolved in color.

Then we took shipping and sailed o^er silent seas again, and the sunshine disappeared. We passed Brono, quite a settlement, with a church, telegraph office, etc., and then to our keen regret the mist, which resembled the rain, degenerated into a drizzle or pour. At eight p. M. we passed Sandnasen — ^' good quarters, ^^ with a church in size strangely out of proportion to the apparent population. But all of these northern stations are identified with the fishing interests, and at certain times of the year the hardy fishermen flock here in thousands. The view of the Seven Sisters, a spelling class or procession of mountains, is said to be grand from here. Perhaps it is ! We saw it not, for the rain clouds enveloped them ! A while earlier, we did see a"" beautiful effect in seven long cascades or waterfalls, at intervals, dashing down the sides of a long mountain range, in a mass of whitened foam. It became cold and wet and we would fain have retired, only at eleven p. m. we were to cross the Arctic Circle, the pesky imaginary line which so bothered the comprehension of our earlier days, — especially as it was so plain upon the maps. For an hour or more we lost everything, being enveloped in a light and luminous cloud and downpour. About eleven p. m. we all gathered around two small cannons on one side of the vessel. An island with apparently a cone-like mound of rock, a most peculiar formation, so enveloped in mist we could not tell whether it was high or low, appeared upon one side of a narrow strait. More rocks rose upon tlie other side. The Circle passes between them and when fairly abreast, the genial captain, who from first to last was indefatigable in his efforts to add to the pleasure of the trip, requested a young California lady to pull a string, and bang ! went the little brass cannon ; then a fair English lass drew another and the deafening noise of a salute followed ; then all went to opposite side of vessel, the Austrians broke out in their national hymn Avhile two German frauleins fired the other two guns — and we were across the magic line. It all seemed so droll, eighty grown-up people standing around in the rain while four guns were firing, because we Avere passing an imaginary line that no one cared a button for ! Beyond this, there is said to be some fine scenery, but as the rain soon entirely obliterated all trace of earth or sky, we retired, the captain calling out cheerily, " Get all the sleep you can, for every night after this, there is much to see.^' Hope, as usual, told a fiattering tale. And the morning and the evening of our second day were ended.

THE PLAY WITH HAMLET OMITTED.

As the captain^ with almost paternal solicitude, had announced the previous evening that in the early hours of this our third eventful day, we might have it a little rough, we lay quietly in our berths until eight o'clock. With fine weather, it is difficult to understand just when one would have any use for a berth, there is so much to see. We saw from our port-hole that the rain had ceased, the sky was a soft mass of mother-of-pearl and the horizon mountains bright with sunshine, but little dreamed of what a varied scene awaited us from the deck, stretched out upon the surrounding waters. Numerous low rocky islands and miniature islets seemed floating upon the surface, like ice floes, while rising sharply, tumultuously, like colossal waves tossed into the air, breaking in a sky line of sharp-pointed ragged peaks, tinged with soft living and bronze green with here and there white patches of snow, were the Lofoden Islands. Through the quiet waters the good ship ploughed its way, the great wall of rock growing taller and taller and more sombre and impressive. A cloud suddenly swooped down, eagle-like, and wreathed the highest summits with an air of solemn,

In the Raftsund impenetrable mystery. Seen against the gray, luminous sky, the picture or panorama, all through the Raftsund, of these wonderful and stupendous rocky islands, was grand, sublime and overpowering. The distant peaks were superb in color, being a most peculiar tint of greenish violet, soft and luminous. Nature makes up a liberal palette, ere this picture is complete. When first we reached the shadow of the great rocks, we came to Henningsvaer, a very important fishing station, where in the season (midwinter) from twenty to thirty thousand fishermen are engaged. The little low islands were literally peppered with low houses and rude huts. The vessel stopped for ten minutes and then through the boundless waters continued its royal way. Oh ! the solemn loneliness of that stretch of waters and those countless bare and rugged peaks ! It seemed as if the Alps must be afloat I How the expression of it, ^' How wonderful are Thy works," oppressed mind and soul that quiet, ideal Sabbath morning ! The mountain forms grew more wild, spectral, and weird. At times an outline like a Titanic saw, again great mounds of color indescribable, or some deep inlet brilliant with ultramarine blue, or some nearer mount luminous green with the turf, with lines of purple and brown of dampened rocks. Surely, the witchery of color never had dramatic display excelling this ! Everywhere islands and islets, mountain ranges and chains, and strangely enough with all these heights, no corresponding or complementing curve or valley depth, but instead, the long soul-quieting lines of water with their solemn, grave suggestiveness of the endlessness of eternity !

It was Switzerland submerged, but with the life and gladness of the happyvalleys replaced by the awful immensity, solitude and utter separation from human life, of the outstretched silent waters. Something perhaps is lost of the daring, breathless towering toward the heavens, felt in valley depths, by this conscious beginning upon a level. But the inseparable mystery, solemnity, grandeur and sublimity are accentuated, and one feels farther removed from the life that now is and closer to the Unseen and nearer to the blessed life beyond. We longed for clear blue sky and continuous sunshine, yet felt in all probability we were having a greater variety of color and atmospheric effects. It was transcendently beautiful and mysterious ; was like endless worship in some grand cathedral, with here and there a column in solemn shadow and often a burst of sunlight upon occasional blue and purple peaks, like the streaming of light through clerestory stained and colored glass. Passing through gateways of imposing rocks we would come "into a large place,^^ and far away against the horizon, would see a line of peaks and pinnacles and wave-tossed outline, like the views of Alpine ranges from such vantage ground as Rigi Kulm. The signs of life are few. Here and there detached houses or perchance a hamlet. Flocks of sea-gulls and eider duck, and in the open, a finely proportioned English steamer. Constantly changing is the Qonfiguration of mountain and hill uj^on every side, so that the eye wearies, the nerves grow taut with all the shifting scene of beauty and the prolonged strain of unbroken delight.

A most weird and spectral scene was a row of square-cut islands like the huge abutments or piers of some gigantic bridge, and then a sharp, solitary, pyramid as we passed on through the azure and the blue. Grand and impressive as it was, we felt at times we did not gain a correct impression of the height of many of the peaks, because of the frequent handicapping by the clouds. The snow nowhere lies like a mantle covering the entire summits, or in great sweej^ing draperies down the mountain side, as with the Alps or Sierra Nevadas, but in spots and patches here and there as in pockets. Sometimes in the great crater-like pockets, it lay in magnificent and dazzling masses and frequently ponderous glowing glaciers seemed creeping slowly down, but oftener it was a patch, a blotch of white, upon a heraldic field of blue. The cloud effects were superb, but inasmuch as we would pass that way but once, we would willingly have dispensed with some, to have had more of unobstructed vision of lofty peak and solemn height. At one time we were in a land-locked bay, like a lake, with apparently no outlet, among the tallest peaks, over which hung and broke, Staubback like, a single thread of white waters. Such combination of beauteous form, variety of outline, sensuousness of luminous color is said to be rare, even here. Smoothly and silently we turned into the Trold- 3 fjord ; as if by magic the clouds graciously lifted, the blue sky appeared, and up and up — thousands of feet almost sheer wp — on one side, rose the wellnigh bare, bald, mountain heights, with great masses of brilliant fire-weed, a few scanty shrubs and then nothing but the stupendous bare, gray rock surface.

This little cove or fjord was by far the grandest and most magnificent sight we had. In this tiny bay what marvellous grandeur and sublimity ! A giant mountain with smooth, slanting surface of thousands of feet from summit to water's edge ; — a cone and pyramid ; — streams of whitened foam coming down steep acclivities, and one great solitary glacier, made the little enclosure seem like a sanctuary, so still and holy ! A single white sea-gull hovered above like the Holy Spirit brooding over the calm and repose. Oh dear ! they dared, in childish craving for amusement, to fire several guns while there, for the possible effect of wonderful echo and marvellous reverberation, when the holy charm of this amazing combination was the brooding stillness, the spiritual peacefulness, that could be felt. A shout in church would hardly have sounded more sacrilegious ! We passed out, and lo ! in a few moments there was no trace of inlet or wondrous silent fjord ! Like a revelation it opened, — ^like an apparition it disappeared ! So come, — alas ! so go, some of the deepest and sweetest experiences of our spiritual and inner life. The scene grew more rugged and wild, the peaks sharper, and the glorious sun appearing, transfigured it all. Fifteen minutes later we wondered if mountains, clouds, sky and water, could do more ! One great clustered mass of purple mountains, was covered with a strange luminous cloud. The light beyond seemed to break through in long, glorious slants down* their sides. A mysterious and exj^ectant air, made it seem as if Moses had again gone up into the mount. Another peerless group of sharp-pointed and jagged peaks, with great, deep pockets filled with snow, stood out grand and sublime in the clear atmosphere. Far away, beyond a chain of low islets, a range of vivid blue mountains was broken in one place by an abrupt oblong mass like a stupendous square fortress with huge towers at the corners, all flashing in the sunshine. In another direction a solid blue, sombre mass, with broken outline of strange, weird shapes, was, in some places, monolithic in form and character. There is little use in trying to portray these details, save that they give some faint idea of the rapidly dissolving kaleidoscopic effects, gone and replaced almost momentarily.

Later we stop^^ed at a small village to allow a funny little German baron to land, with his seventeen pieces of luggage, his object beiiig to ascend a mountain in sight crowned with a little hut, because, as he said, '^ the Emperor had done so ! " At seven-thirty p. m. we moored in the harbor of Ilarstad, called oneof the most beautiful places on the coast. It seemed as if tlie whole population, dressed in their Sunday best, were upon the wharf, A long row of carioles and saddle horses were waiting to take visitors to one of the oldest churches in JSTorway, a mile or two away. We went ashore and strolled a ways above the town. A beautiful scene lay unfolded before us, for we seemed to be overlooking an Alpine lake with the mountains at one end well covered with snow. The little town had a thrifty look, and as we passed one house, the sound of a melodeon was heard. After all, we did not seem so far away. At eleven p. m. we were off again, our departure being timed so as to reach a place a little way beyond, where we would have the first chance of seeing the Midnight Sun. It was the more exciting because, although the wind blew bleak and cold, the clouds seemed about to lift. In the west the golden suffusing light made a hopeful contrast with the rest of the beclouded sky. Time wore on ; we came in sight of apparently a bouquet or group of peaks with summits so beclouded that no idea of height or conformation, save at the base, could be formed. Beyond lay a long stretch of low, almost flat, mountains. A little way above the horizon the edge of a flaky, pearly mass of cloud was as sharply and distinctly drawn as the edge or border of a stage curtain. Along the horizon a bank of scattering clouds and between, lovely reflected golden light. It seemed as if the bell had rung for the curtain to go up, — and it had caught ! Whether the sun was in the bank below or behind the curtain-like cloud we knew not. Oh ! with what tension of nerve, with what longing gaze we watched the scene ! At twelve o'clock a gun was fired, but there was no Midnight Sun for us ! While it was marvellous at midnight to see the western sky all glorious as at many a sunset hour in our own land, it was not exactly that which we '^came out for to see," and a little chagrined we acceded willingly to the captain's suggestion, — " Go to bed and if the sun appears we will fire a gun." Alas ! no report sounded upon the air as the night wore on ! It was disappointing, but it could neither obliterate nor dim the glowing memory of the glorious Sabbath day, so satisfyingly full of the wondrous revelation of creative skill, so permeated with the soft radiancy of heavenly tint and hue of delicacy and beauty unspeakable.

THE PLAY WITH HAMLET OMITTED.

III

At an early hour on Monday we arrived at Tromso, which, situated upon a little bay, makes a fine appearance from the water, with its warehouses and wharves, the buildings of the town, and upon wood-covered hills beyond, many a little white villa. After breakfast we were all rowed to a small landing opposite, where little carioles were waiting to drive to a picturesque valley where was a so-called settlement of Lapps. It was a slioiu place with probably most of the characteristics of a genuine settlement, dirt and all ! Four or five huts made of poles or logs set up on end and gathered to a centre and covered with earth, etc., and perhaps fifty men, women and children ; a lot of beautiful dogs, and better than all, a herd of reindeer, were the attractions. The men and women were very diminutive, with faded yellow hair and leather-like skins, and were so nondescriptly attired and enveloped that they appeared much like picturesque bundles of old clothes, skins and leather. The garments of skin with fur turned inside, looked, if the truth is to be told, as if never cleaned and rarely removed. A few minutes within the huts so satisfied curiosity and healthful, sight-seeing interest, that we did not care even to inquire the price of rooms for the season. The reindeer were very interesting, much like deer, only that their antlers were completely covered as with a soft and velvety fur. It all hoAvever, reminded us of the so-called Indian encampments often seen near our popular resorts. The life within the huts was pitiful. A hole in the middle of the roof gives the only light or chance for escape of the smoke of the fire in centre of room, around which they live and sleep in very primitive fashion. The babies have the drollest of droll little cradles. It was not a cheerful place or inspiriting picture of life, yet they all seemed contented and happy.

Many walked the whole way for a change, but in our two-wheeled gig, with a little imp of a horse, and a boy standing up behind driving, Jehu-like, we felt, as we jolted and pitched over the rather primitive road, first to one side and then to the other, with a delightful suggestion of an upset at any moment, that we had quite as much exercise as the best of them. Keturning to the little wharf we were rowed over to the town, where we strolled around for awhile, visiting the little shops with many a choice bit of old silver and quaint tankards and spoons. There was a general appearance of cleanliness and tidiness, but a very fishy odor in the vicinity of the wharves. Almost every window (and never were there more windows in a given space) was prettily draped with Nottingham lace or muslin curtains and profusely filled with pots of blooming flowers. An hour or two before we left, the excursion steamer " Augusta Victoria," arrived from the North Cape, and reported the weather so unfavorable, that no sight of the Midnight Sun had been enjoyed. Our hearts sank within us, as we wondered if a similar experience awaited us. (They touched the hottom later !) As we steamed away from Tromso about two p. M. bang ! bang ! bang ! went the exchanging salutes, and the colors were dipped while from our ship floated the Norwegian, Swedish, Austrian, French, German, English and American flags. The scenery soon became magnificent, but alas ! for awhile, we were exposed to the roll and swell of the sea and the wind became too piercingly cold and keen, to allow of prolonged sitting upon the deck.

All this while we were passing at most aggravating disadvantage, combinations of mountain and sea, solemn and grand ! Late in the afternoon, unable to stand any longer the letting of all this grandeur pass unnoticed, we bundled up and went out, with teeth chattering and forms shivering, and viewed the prospect o^'er. There was no going in after that ! Cold or not, we could not afford to lose or ignore such inspiring and enchanting effects of stupendous form and bewitching color. The temperature was more suggestive of November or December than July. How we wished the clouds that handicapped two thirds of the summits and ranges would lift ! The atmospheric effects were peculiar and bewitching ; it was like some great spectacular display. The gray, cold clouds hung heavily ; an occasional rift revealing their thinness as well as the blue sky beyond. Once, sweeping the horizon we looked upon tent-like mountains, then upon the open sea with one stupendous, tumbled island mass of rugged mountains, while along the nearer shore almost purple to blackness, rose sombre, mysterious, solemn and awful, a bold, lofty jagged range, standing out grand and impressive against an angry sky with a wild, fearful "^Dies Irae^^ expression. In its impressive, awful elfect we seemed to hear again the weird song of the Hampton singers, " my Lord ! what mourning, what mourning w^hen the stars begin to fall.^^ The utter loneliness and solitariness of this environment of sombre sea and solemn heights cannot be imagined or pictured.

Yet in startling and beautiful contrast, way off in another direction in a deep islet or bay, the sun was shining gloriously and the mountain-side seemed laughing with gladness. Passing over those black waters, among those sombre mountains, flecked here and there with snow, we seemed in another sphere than ours. Closer and closer we came to a river-like fjord until fairly in the shadow and at the very base of an unusually lofty range. Protected by this barrier the wind touched us not and seemed to have died away. From smooth, quiet waters sprang abruptly and with one glorious bound a range of mountains from five to six thousand feet in height. AV"e were in the Lyngen-f jord, one of the finest along the entire coast, and a lovely scene it was, like a great inland sea with lonely mountains guarding its every side. The steamer slowed up and we just floated along the base of the mighty heights. 'No words can convey a truthful idea of the wonderful succession of strange riftings and breakings in this wall of stone. It seemed a solid continuous mass, then suddenly a break would occur and high up on the mountain-side would lie an extensive glacier, rifted and seamed in great crevasses and cavities, showing a most exquisite and peculiar blue. From it would pour, over boulders and a rocky bed, a white stream, which a Swiss lady facetiously remarked was '^the outcome of the glacier^s melting mood.^' We little dreamed of that which was in store. It was indeed, as the song says, ^^ Better on before," for we passed break after break, with glacier after glacier, and many a white, rushing, foaming stream coming down the mountaintside. Some of the glaciers, with thrilling effect, seemed to emerge or be a portion of the great overhanging clouds, while others lay in great, solid, aqua-marine, blue-fretted masses. One break may reveal mountain-tops like castellated battlements lost in clouds ; another, a group of pinnacles like a Gothic spire, with countless sea-gulls fluttering to and fro against this architectural background of gray and barren rocks. Lost as many of the pinnacles were in clouds, they seemed those of a temple not made with hands, eternal in the heavens. Another showed in the centre a great cone-like mountain, with a blue, shattered glacier flowing around it.