Recollections of seventy years

Front matter

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Preface

For several years past my friends have suggested to me that I write the recollections of my long and somewhat eventful life. I hesitated to undertake the task for the reason that I had not been accustomed to write for publication. A year ago I reached the conclusion that if such a work was ever to be done, it should be begun at once. My memory has always been exceptionally good and reliable. In giving to the world my recollections of seventy years, as found in the following [)age?, I have made no effort at fine writing, but have endeavored to state facts in such a way as to make them intelligible. What I give in these pages is not an autobiography, but rather my impression of men and tilings, especially of men, as 1 have seen and known them. The readers, whoever they may be, old or young, cannot fail to find something in this book which will interest them. With best wishes to them for health, prosperity and long life, I am, Sincerely,

THE AUTHOR.

CO ::v T 15 ivTs .

Chapter.

I. Early Galena, 1825 to 1832.

II. Black Hawk War, 1832. Galena 1832 1S36

III. Later Galena, 1836 to 1850. Sketches of Prominent

Citizens.

IV. Galena and the Northwest, 1850 to 1861. A tour in

Kurope, incidents, etc.

V. The Civil War. Recruiting the fir.st Galena Company in April 1861. Arm}' at Cairo. Movement on Fort Donelson. Prominent Arm}- Men, etc. VI. The Civil War. Fort Donelson to Vicksburg-. Battles of Shiloh and Corinth. Sketches of prominent army men. Incidents, etc.

VII. The Civil War. 1863 to 1865. Army of the Tennessee- Recruiting and organizing U. S. Colored Troops in Tennessee. In command of Post and forces of Memphis. Incidents at close of the War. Commanding the District of Taladega, Ala., 1865-66.

VIII. Utah, 1867-9. The Mormons and Mormonism.

IX U. S. Consul at Brussels, 1869-72. Sketches of Americans in Europe. Notes on the Franco-Prussian War, Siege of Paris, The Commune, etc.

X. Chicago after the great fire of 1871. Convention in Chicago in 1874 of old Abolitionists. Tour in California. Jo. Jefferson, the famous actor at Galena in 1810. International Military Encampment at Chicago 18S7. Visit to Europe. Interview with Gen. Ferron, the French Minister of War. Gen. Grant and Ex Minister Washburne in 1879 — '80. Sketches of prominent men who have died in Chicago since 1872, and of men now living in Chicago and in the Northwest. XI. World's Columbian Exposition of 1893. Location secured. Management, etc. Womans Department, etc.

XII. Brief sketches of Noted Women of Chicago.

XIII. Army Societies in Chicago. Brief Sketches of army

Officers.

XIV. Notes on the Dominion of Canada. Notes on Rock-

ford, 111., and Platteville Wis.

XV. The Philafrican Liberators League. XVI. Galena at the close of the 19th century. Sketches of prominent citizens who have died. Sketches and notices of citizens now living.

Page i5-6th line from bottom should read "Jeremiah Wood."

28— nth •' " " Thomas P.rummond."

.. 193— gth " " " There also was my friend."

.. 209— 9th and loth line from top should read "draw" and "make." " 299— 20th line from top should read "Superintendent of Public Schools.

TpA—2d " " " " " "while on their way." <• 304— 3d " " bottom should read "requiescat in pace." " 304— 5th garlands dead."

CHAPTER I. EflRLY GALENfl

The lead mine region of the Northwest is about fifty miles square, lying in the northwestern corner of Illinois and the southwestern part of VVisconsin, with a narrow strip on the west side of the Mississippi river, in the vicinity of Dubuque, Iowa. A few adventurous men came into the region as early as 1821 to engage in mining lead ore, and a larger number in the succeeding live years. They were mostly from Missouri, Kentucky and Southern Illinois, making their way to the mines on horseback, by ox-teams and by *keelboats up the Mississippi river. The early best paying "diggings" were located west of Fever river, from five to ten miles from La Pointe (afterwards Galena). Their supplies were obtained at a small store or trading post, kept by a Frenchman named Bouthillier, just below and on the opposite side of the river from Frederic's Point, the landing for steamboats, and the head of navigation at an ordinary stage of water. Crude log furnaces were constructed to smelt the ore, and the product of these furnaces was taken to St. Louis by keelboats and by ox-teams overland. The teams occasionally hauled loads to Juneau's Point (afterwards Milwaukee), and to Fort Dearborn (afterwards Chicago). During these years and prior thereto, the Winnebago Indians did some mining, which

*The keelboats were much like a canal boat, only much smaller and of lighter construction, and propelled by rowing, poling or cordelling, and were in general use on the Mississippi before steamboats began running.

gave them lead to mold into bullets and buckshot for their guns. They never exported any lead.

By 182(3 the mining operations, which had proved lucrative, began to attract the attention of the country and brought in a large immigration, not only of miners, but also of farmers, merchants, mechanics and a few professional men. The next year brought in a still larger number, and mining centers were formed, each with its store, blacksmith shoj), etc. The locating of Galena on Fever river was a matter of accident. Prior to 1826 all supplies for the miners were brought up Fever river and landed at Frederic's Point, a natural landing, and prior to 1827 this landing was known as La Pointe. In the summer of 182(3 a street was laid out under the bluff, just below the landing, and named Main street, and the lots were leased for building purposes. A few log houses were erected for dwellings, stores, shops, etc. The fall of that year brought in the greater part of the French-Swiss colony from the Selkirk settlement on Red river. These people having become dissatisfied with the condition of things at the settlement, emigrated in a body to the lead mines to join some of their compatriots already there. Traveling overland to Fort St. Anthony (now Fort Snelling^ they obtained passage on a steamboat which had carried supplies to the garrison stationed there, and by it were taken to their destination. The new comers, all well-to-do financially, chose to locate on government lands and engage in farming.

The favorable reports from the mining region during the latter part of 1826, induced capitalists to locate there for the purpose of trading, smelting lead ore, etc. In the spring of 1827 two additional streets were laid out in the new town and lots were sold. Steamboats began to run at regular intervals between St. Louis and

Fever river. B\' fall the village had more than doubled in population. When the question of obtaining a town €harter was being discussed it was proposed to name the town Jackson, in honor of Gen. Jackson, who was popular in the West. Others suggested that it be named Harrison, called afier the hero of Tippecanoe, but wiser counsel prevailed, and the more appropriate name Galena, was chosen. The character of the settlers in the lead mines during this year, either to locate in Galena or elsewhere, was much better than that of the previous years.

Among the large number of enterprising men who located in the town of Galena in 1827 and during the two succeeding years. I can call to m}' mind Dr. Horatio ISTewhall. Charles S, Hempstead, Col. James M. Strode, Captain W. B. Green, James G. Soulard, Captain J. B, Atchison, Captain D. B. Morehouse, Captain Orrin Smith, Captain Smith D. Harris, Captain W. H. Hooper, Captain Edward Beebe, Captain G. W. Girdon (the last seven named well-known steamboat captains). Scribe Harris, Ben C. St. Cyr, H. P. McCloskey, Frederick Stahl, Nicholas Dowling, Lucius and Edward Langworthy (afterwards prominent citizens of Dubuque), Thomas Ford (later governor of Illinois), Henry Dodge (general in the Blackhawk war and subsequently U. S. senator), Charles K. Bennett. Daniel Wann (Collector of the port of Galena for a score of years), William Hempstead and Moses Hallet (the first sheriff of the county).

For the most part the young men named above were as energetic and wide awake as any to be found. Nothing pleased them better than a horse race, a turkey shooting match or a country dance. Shrewd, enterprising and industrious, most of them were successful in their various vocations, W. H. Hooper, trader as well as a steamboat captain, moved west, engaged as a freighter west of the

Missouri river, joined the Mormon church, settled in Utah, and was for sixteen years a delegate to congress, Although a Mormon, he never practiced polygamy. He had great energy, much practical intelligence and a charm of manner that won the respect and confidence of his brother members in both houses of congress.

George W. Campbell, who was a successful wholesale grocer at Galena lor nearly twoscore years, moved to Chicago during the early part of the civil war and filled a position in the United States commissary department there, with the rank of colonel. A quiet, careful, conservative business man, he always kept his affairs well in hand- He was a member of the First Presbyterian church at Galena and a ruling elder for more than a score of years. His Christian zeal and benevolence led him to do much for the poor and unfortunate in alleviating their needs. It could truly be said of him that he was the poor man's friend.

My parents came to the lead mines in the spring of 1826, from St. Louis, Mo., where they had lived for two ^ears and where I was born. They were members of the French-Swiss colony which emigrated via Hudf son Bay to the Selkirk settlement in British America in 1821 and left there in 1823. They made their way to the Mississippi and down that river in open boats to» St. Louis. The climate of Missouri did not agree with them, and when Col. Henry Gratiot, the newly appointed agent to the Winnebago Indiaiis, left St. Louis for the lead mines in 1826 to establish an agency, my parents,, ■with a few of their fellow colonists who were in St. Louis,, joined him. The party took passage on one of the first steamboats that ascended the Mississippi above the mouth of the Illinois river, and reached Fever river on the 14th -day of April. A beautiful grove on the south side of a.n undulating prairie, tvvelve miles north of La Pointe

(afterwards Galena), was chosen as the site of the new 9genc3^ Col. Gratiot's family, as well as that of my father, were left at La Pointe while suitable buildings were being erected at the agency for their accommodation. Col. Gratiot was joined the next spring by his two brothers, Bion and Paul, who became his partners in the business of mining and smelting lead. There were good "diggings" in the vicinity of the agency. They constructed several log furnaces and employed a large number of men to dig ore, run the furnaces, cut and haul wood, etc. The men so employed were usually Canadian ex-trappers and voyageurs, among whom were some half-breed Indians. My father engaged in mining and teaming. The teaming business was a large one, as aly the ore dug had to be hauled, to the furnaces to be smelted, and the lead in "pigs" was then hauled from the furnaces to La Pointe, on Fever river, for shipment.

In the three or four years succeeding the establishment of the agency at Gratiots' Grove, the mining operations on the prairie north of there were so successful that it became the attraction for many miners. In after years this tract, known as "ShuUsburg's Survey," developed into one of the richest sections of the lead mine region. The flourishing town of Shullsburg, Wisconsin, was built on this tract.

The rapid increase in the products of the mines in what was called the Galena District brought in a large number of men of capital, who constructed smelting furnaces within fifteen miles of Gait na. Some of the earlier ones were the Gratiots, H. H. Gear, Lockwood, Magoon, Hughlett, Meeker, Strawbridge, Hamilton and January. The government, through the war department, exacted from the miner one-tenth of the mineral dug by him as a tax. The miner usually arranged with the smelter to pay this tax, consequently the relations between the miner and the smelter were very close, and, to a certain extent, confidential. The furnaces in these early days were crude and inexpensive, and in the process of smelting there was much waste. In the early -30's Burton & Sons constructed near Galena a new, improved and more expensive furnace, patterned after the English furnace style. It was called the "Cupolo" furnace, and is in general use now.

The teaming business increased in importance as the mining interests of the country developed. The opening of valuable mines in the northern portions of the lead mine region about Mineral Point increased the number of teams engaged in the carrying business. In the spring teams of four yoke of oxen and a strong canvas covered wagon would leave Southern Illinois for the mines, haul lead to ihe furnaces, or from the furnaces to the place of shipment, usually Galena, and take a "back load" in goods for the traders or supplies for the miners. The teamsters lived in their wagons and cooked their food, which consisted of corn bread, bacon and coffee. The oxen browsed at night, and so obtained a living. Late in the fall these "outfits" would return to their .southern homes for the winter, sometimes, in the early days, taking a load of lead to St. Louis. These were called "sucker teams," after the sucker fish, which ascends the Mississippi river in the spring and returns late in the fall.

As early as 1827, Col. James M. Strode, a Kentuckian, located at Galena and put out his "shingle" as attorney and counselor at law. He was one of the first lawyers in the village, preceded by only one other, viz: Judge .John Turney. He was of splendid physique, tall and straight, and dignified and courteous in manner. He had ability as a lawyer, especially' in jury trials. His afFabilitv and eood nature drew men to him, and he soon becam( well known and popular in all that region. When the Blackhawk war broke out, he raised a company of mounted men, and later was elected a colonel of a small regiment, to which was assigned the duty of scouting in the mining district and in the country east and south of it. His men were ever on the alert and did some efficient work as scouts. The colonel was never engaged in a battle with the Indians, but had a few lively skirmishes with them. During the short war he achieved considerable distinction as an Indian fighter. For many years after the war stories were told of his exploits. Many were doubtless exaggerated, but they never failed to interest the people. Kis vanity was great, and he seemed to enjoy being thus made a hero. Col. Strode moved to Chicago about the early '50's, and will be remembered by the old Chicago bar and by old citizens of the northern part of the state, as one of the counsel in the famous Birch-Stewart divorce case, which was tried at the county seat of Du Page county.

One of the most noted men who came to Galena in 1827 was Hezekiah H. Gear, a New Englander, nearing middle life. He was tall, slender, wiry, of irrepressible energy, and soon proved to be a successful business man. He engaged in mining on a large scale, hiring men b}^ the score to do his work, built furnaces and ran them, and also engaged in trading at Galena. At this time he was the wealthiest man in the lead mines. When the Blackhawk war broke out in 1832, he raised a company of mounted volunteers, which he himself commanded. He was elected to the state senate and made a very creditable record. Whlie senator he warmly favored the project to build a railroad from Cairo to Galena, called the "Illinois Central Railroad," and was an active factor in develoi)ing the resources of the lead mine region. Later in life he became somewhat erratic, the result of long mental strain, and "his right hand forgot its cunning."

The Rev. Mr. Gear, a brother of Captain Gear, was a Protestant Episcopal clergyman, and in the early 30s was rector of a church at Galena. His son, John H. Gear, who was a schoolboy at this time and whom I knew, moved to Fort Snelling. Minn., with his father, who had been appointed a chaplain in the United States Army. After the completion of his education he went to Burlington, Iowa, and became a merchant. He was elected to the legislature and was chosen speaker and served two terms. He was soon afterwards elected governor of the state and served four years, and is now one of the United States senators from that state. Governor Gear is a man of quiet disposition, of sound judgment and of fine adniinistrative ability, and has always been popular with tlie peo[)le of his state.

Among the young men who came to Galena in 1827 were two from New England and who were prominent figures in that place for nearly a half century. They were Charles S. Hempstead and Dr. Horatio Newhall, a practicing physician. The former was a quiet, dignified, urbane man, and an able lawyer, who {)racticed his profession until past middle life, when he devoted his entire attention to his [)rivate affairs. He was a promoter of the Galena and Chicago railioad, the first road to be constructed west of Lake Michigan, and was one of its board of directors for many years. He served in the civil war as a paymaster and was one of Galena's early mayors. His two sons, Edward and Charles, became prominent citizens of Galena, and both moved to Chicago and engaged, the first named in the lumber business, and the second in the practice of his profession as a physician, in which he became distinguished. Dr. Newhall was a man of liberal education, of superior natural ability, and was recognized cxS a skillful practitioner. Both were ruling elders in the First Presbyterian church at Galena during all these years. They were both public spirited citizens, in whom the community liad unbounded confidence and held in higii esteem. No two other citizens did more to advance its every interest, social, moral and material.

In the same year (1827) a young Kentuckian made his advent in Galena in the person of John H. Rountree. He was tall, handsome, genial and generous. He turned his attention to mining and located in a mining center near Galena. His industry, energy and rare practical intelligence attracted the attention of his neighbors. Not long after he moved to the village of Platteville, Wis. His success as a business man soon made him prominent, and his kindly manner naturally won for him the frierjdship of all classes. His cordial greeting and handshake was often regarde'l by the recipients as i* benediction. So much confidence did his neighbors have in his integrity and good judgment, that not infrequently when disagreements arose among them instead of going to a court, they would mutually agree to leave it to Major Rountree for decision. He served in the Blackhawk war as a captain of volunteers, was elected a member of the constitutional convention of his state, was a state senator several terms, and held other positions of trust in his state. He was one of Wisconsin's best known and most highly esteemed citizens.

The first clergyman to settle in Galena was the Rev. Aratus Kent in 1820. Having completed his theological studies, he came to the lead mines under the auspices of the Home Missionary society. When he made application for a mission he said that he wanted a ''place so hard that no one would take it." With commendable Christian zeal he began to canvass the village, to ascertain if it contained any members of tlie Presbyterian church. A few were foand, wlio gave him u cordial welcome, and arrangements were at once made by them and their friends, without regard to sect, for holding Sunday meetings. A suitable room was secured at the rear of a grocery store and saloon — a combination not unusual in those days. It is related that while the young clergyman was preaching in the rear room, a few citizens, who evidently "esteemed all days alike," were having a quiet game of "seven up" in the front room. Mr. Kent organized the first Presbyterian church in Galena in 1831, and bought a frame building adjoining the present stone church building, in which services were held for several years. He was its pastor for nearly a quarter of a century. In the '40s it was the largest and most influential church in the Northwest outside of Chicago. About 1855 he was appointed the General Superintendent of Home Missions for the Northwest. He continued in this work for nearlj' a score of years, and by his untiring energy accomplished what few other men could have done in establishing religious societies, organizing churches, and in securing missionaries to take charge of them. He alsj took an active interest in educational matters, and was an important factor, with Elder John Edwards, an old and influential citizen of Rockford as an assistant, in founding Beloit college and the Rockford Female college. During tiie first decade of his ministrations at Galena he was in the habit of giving one day each week to visiting the villages and hamlets in the lead mine region, going frequently from house to house to ascertain the religious needs of its inmates. He took with him Bibles, tracts and other religious books, which he distributed freely, thereby doing the work usually done by the colportuer. He was generally known at an early date as the "pioneer missionary," and in the later years of his life as "P'ather Kent." He was a mark of wonderful energy and of deej) and earnest piety. I united with his church at an early age, and have always felt deeply grateful to him for his faithfulness in giving me so many valuable moral and religious lessons in my youth, lessons which I have never forgotten.

Soon after the beginning of the '30s Mr. Kent induced Amasa B. Campbell, a graduate of a New England college, to come to Galena and open a first-class school. He intended to enter the ministry, but lack of physical ability caused him to change his mind, and he resolved to be an educator. Mr. Canipbell began his work with zeal and energy. He had a well-trained mind and a disposition well adapted for teaching. For fifteen 3^earshe carried on his work with untiring devotion, and hisschool at Galena was regarded as the best in the Noithwest. Soon after its opening he had the valuable assistance of bis wife, who was a lady of fine natural ability and thoroughly educated. For several years I was a pupil in his school, attending every winter from four tofive months. He was of great assistance to his pastor^ Mr. Kent, in his arduous work, frequently filling his pulpit when the latter was absent or disabled. Mr. Campbell took a lively interest in his pupils and did more than merely teaching them. In tiie latter part of the '40s he gave up teaching on account of impaired health, and turned his attention to farming. He wassucceeded by George S. Magoun, afterward Rev. Dr. Magoun, President of Iowa college, at Grinnell, Iowa.

Mr. John Wood, a college graduate, came to Galena a few years before Mr. Campbell to establish an academy. His project did not succeed. He moved out to Gratiot's- Grove, opened a boarding and day school there, ran it for a few years and returned to Galena. I attended his school at Gratiot's Grove one winter. He was a man of ability and superior education, and one of its prominent citizens for nearly fifty years. He served as a deacon and ruling elder in the first Presbyterian church during most of these vears.

Chapter II

THE BLACKHAWK WAR Of 1832— GALENA, 1832 TO 1836.

The Black hawk war broke out in the early summer of 1832. For six years prior to this event the emigration to the lead mine region had been phenomenally great. The settlers during the latter part of this period were largely of the agricultural class, who had been induced to locate on government lands, not only in the mining districts, but also on the fertile lands south and east of the district. Thus it happened that when roving bands of Indians began their depredation of stealing cattle and horses, burning farm houses and occasionally murdering their inmates, there was a considerable though scattered population in Northwestern Illinois and Southwestern Wisconsin. It will be remembered that the Winnebago Indians in 1827 bad become dissatisfied and restless and threatened to take the war path. They asserted that they had received bad treatment from the white settlers in the lead mine region, that they could get no redress, etc. The Indian agent. Col. Henry Gratiot, who had always been on friendly terms with this tribe, at once went to their camps on upper Rock river, and had a 'italk" with its chiefs, and induced them to delay all action and meet a high official of the government, Gen. Cass, of Michigan, and lay all their grievances before him, promising them that he would rectify all their wrongs and have the wrongdoers punished. The result was that a conference was held and a treaty of peace was made and signed by all the leading chiefs

B

-of the tribe. These Indians were the allies of the whites during the war of 1832.

The Sac tribe of Indians, of which Blackhawk was the chief, had two years before (1829), by treaty, ceeded to the government their lands on Rock river, and had moved to their new reservation on the west side of the Mississippi river in Central and Southern Iowa, and nearly directly west of their reservation in Illinois.

For some reason never fully understood, Blackhawk moved the greater part of his tribe in the spring of 1832 to his old reservation on lower Rock river. Blackhawk always asserted that his intentions w'ere not hostile. He simply desired to spend the summer on his old hunting grounds, where game was more plenty than on the Des Moines and Iowa rivers, and that he had brought his squaws and papooses with him showing his peaceful intentions. There was a garrison of United States troops at Fort Armstrong, Rock Island, in command of Gen. -Atkinson. The authorities at Washington construed this action on the part of Blackhawk as a violation of the treaty and a declaration of war, and Gen. Atchison was ordered to move his troops against Blackhawk and force him to recross the Mississippi river. Fearing tl/at the force at Fort Armstrong might not be sufficient, the governor of Illinois was ordered to issue a call for volunteers. Blackhawk, finding that he could not recross the Mississippi river below Rock Island without coming in conflict with United States troops, moved his tribe up the valley of Rock river, fighting the white troops, regulars and volunteers, wherever attacked by them.

Small bands of the younger Indians, on the plea of scouting, went out and began to steal, pillage and burn hay and grain in the stack, burn houses and in some instances committed murder; such bands are now called 'pillagers." Blackhawk claimed that he had no control over them and was not aware at the time of their conduct. The act of these pillagers created intense excitement among the white settlers, and their outrages were charged directly to Blackhawk. It has always been evident to me that Blackhawk, finding his retreat cut off, pushed northward, hoping to cross the Mississippi above the Wisconsin river, which he ultimately succeeded in doings after having lost nearly one-half of his warriors and many of his women and children.

Three years before the war my father located about a half section of government land on Apple river, six miles south of the agency, and lying in Jo Daviess county, Illinois, for a farm. He began to improve it at once, and by the time the war began he had one of the best farms in that section of the country. The family lived on the farm and he divided his time between the farm and his business at the agency. This farm, as I remember it, was an ideal one. On the north side of this beautiful river, large enough to run mills, was an undulating prairie with soil of great fertility, and on the south side, gently rising from the river, was a thick grove, mostly of hard wood, from which no wood or timber had ever been taken. The prairie land and timber or wood land were of nearly equal area. We were near the Indian trail from the agency to the Indian camps on lower Rock river. After the war began reports were circulated to the effect that the Winnebagos would join the Sacs in their war. In the early summer of 1832 the bad conduct of Indians south of us caused the settlers some anxiety, and they became suspicious of the hitherto friendly Winnebagos

I remember well in the early summer of the war a band of ten or twelve Winnebagos stopping at our farm house at nightfall and asking for food. Bread and meat were given to them and they left. Their conduct led my mother, who understood the Indian character well, to believe they might be bent on doing mischief. Father was at the agency, and she was alone with her five small children, the eldest being only nine years old. The nearest neighbor was nearly a mile away. She barricaded the door for the night, and took as a weapon of defense in case of attack a large four-pronged iron pitchfork. The next evening at about sun down we heard a noisy band of Indians on the trail less than half a mile distant. It was evident that a part or all of them were under the influence of liquor. Mother was alarmed, and hurriedly gathering up a few valuables took her five little ones to a secluded spot up the river, where stood a stack of hay. She made beds of hay at the foot of the stack for the smaller ones and with the two oldest boys (1 being the younger of the two) sat up the livelong night. Father came home the next day, and the family was at once taken to the agency for better protection.