A narrative of a visit to England

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Book. -C^n i\

NARRATIVE

Preface

To those individuals who may honor the following pages with a perusal, it may be proper to state the circumstances that have given rise to this publication.

The fraternal intercourse that has recently been established between the Independent Churches in Britain, and the Congregational and Presbyterian Churches in the United States, has been the subject of sincere and cordial congratulation. The satisfaction with which the Deputation from the land of our Fathers was received by the American Churches, is evident, from the readiness with which they reciprocated their proposals of union, by an immediate appointment of Deputa- 2

10 PREFACE.

tions to represent them at the British Anniversaries.

The author of the following Narrative will ever esteem it among the high and valued privileges of his life, that he was selected by his brethren to take part in this embassy of love.

It was not until the commencement of his homeward passage, when, for the first time during several months, he had a leisure moment, that the thought occurred to him, that perhaps the people of his charge, and the different Religious and Benevolent Societies which he had the honor to represent, might expect from him, on his return, a brief account of his tour, and of his attention to the objects of his mission. He accordingly occupied himself during a moderate and very pleasant passage of thirty-five days, in drawing up the following Narrative, which, immediately after his return, he communicated to his ow 7 n people ; and those parts of which, that relate to the objects of his

PREFACE. 11

mission, he now takes this more public method to offer as a Report to the Ecclesiastical Body, and the different Religious Societies, which he represented at the Anniversaries in London, in May, 1835.

It will be perceived by the reader, that the author availed himself of the opportunity afforded by his appointment, to pass the winter immediately preceding these Anniversaries, in France and Italy. The first part of the Narrative, relating to his continental tour, as well as the concluding part, containing an account of his visit to Scotland and Wales, has been drawn up with much greater brevity and succinctness, than that which relates to the special objects of his mission. He might, indeed, have enlarged upon what he witnessed in those interesting countries, and filled a volume with topographical descriptions and statistical accounts. This has been abundantly done by other travellers ; and the reader who is desirous of more particular

12 PREFACE.

and detailed information, can be at no loss to obtain it from other sources.

The author's principal object is, to give an account of the Religious Anniversaries held in London, in the month of May, and to make his American brethren and friends acquainted with those excellent men, on the other side of the water, of the same faith and order with the Puritans of New England, who are engaged with us in promoting the various objects of Christian benevolence, which characterize the day in which we live. He trusts he shall be pardoned the free use of names of individuals, as it gives him an opportunity of expressing his deep sense of obligation for the constant kindness and hospitality he everywhere received, in his official character, as a representative of the American Churches.

The reader will find interspersed in the Narrative, some allusions to scenes and events associated with the author's first visit to England and Scotland in early life.

PREFACE. 13

These, it is hoped, will be regarded with indulgence, by those to whom he is not personally known, while they may not be altogether unacceptable to the parties more immediately concerned.

NARRATIVE.

Chapter I

DEPARTURE FROM NEW YORK — ARRIVAL AT HAVRE — JOURNEY FROM PARIS TO NAPLES.

I would commence this Narrative with devout acknowledgments to Almighty God, for the great and distinguishing goodness and mercy, which have followed me and my heloved family, from the time of my departure from my native land, to the present hour. No serious casualty has befallen us during that period, although we have been exposed to dangers, both by sea and land.

At the meeting of the General Association of Massachusetts, in June, 1834, I received an appointment, as a Delegate to represent that body at the annual meeting of the Congregational Union of England and Wales in London, in May,

16 ARRIVAL AT HAVRE.

1835. Having taken the subject into deliberate, and, I hope, prayerful consideration, I submitted it to my church and congregation, and they, with great kindness, consented to my separation from them for a season, and chose a committee to supply the pulpit during my absence. I took an affectionate leave of them, on the first Sabbath in October, 1834, and exhorted them to be " of one mind, and live in peace," with earnest prayers that " the God of love and peace would be with them."

On the sixteenth of October, I embarked at New York, for Havre, in the ship Sylvie de Grasse, Capt. Weiderholdt, accompanied by my wife and two daughters. The passengers on board were respectable and agreeable ; and after a very pleasant passage of twenty-two days, we arrived in safety at Havre, on the eighth of November. The day after our arrival was the Sabbath, and we had the satisfaction of uniting our praises and thanksgivings with a few Christian friends, both English and American, in a little seaman's chapel, and heard a good discourse from their preacher, the Rev. Mr. Ely, brother of the Rev. Dr. Ely, of Philadelphia.

After spending a few days in Havre, we proceeded to Paris, through Rouen and St. Germain. In that fashionable, and in many respects interesting metropolis, we spent but a short time, as we intended to remain longer on our return from Italy. We staid long enough, however, to make the acquaintance of several Christian friends, and to hear faithful, evangelical preaching, both in French and English. I attended, also, a monthly meeting of the French and Foreign Bible Society, where I was very favorably received, as one of the Trustees of the Massachusetts Bible Society, from whom they gratefully acknowledged pecuniary assistance in the distribution of the Scriptures.

After spending ten days in Paris, we procured a convenient carriage and set out on our journey with post-horses to Italy, through the south of France. We engaged the service of a very honest and faithful man, who acted in the double capacity of servant and interpreter.*

A ride of two or three days, during which nothing occurred of peculiar interest, brought us to Lyons, the second city in importance in France, and distinguished for its manufacturing

* Frangois Dunand : I mention his name, as he may be of service to future travellers. Inquiry may be made for him at Messrs. Welles, bankers, Paris.

18 MARSEILLES.

relations to our own country. We had letters of introduction to the Rev. Adolphus Monod, an evangelical Protestant clergyman, who, on account of his attachment to the distinguishing doctrines of the gospel, had been excluded from one of the churches in that city, and was now preaching to a small congregation of pious and devoted friends of truth. We heard him with much pleasure, and spent the evening at his dwelling after the public service, in delightful and profitable conversation, and in social exercises of devotion.

On Monday morning, December 1st, we pursued our journey to Marseilles, stopping at Avignon, and visiting the celebrated fountain of Vaucluse, in that immediate neighborhood. From Avignon we made an excursion to Nismes and Montpelier, and visited the spot, where the celebrated author of the Night Thoughts, in the dark hour of midnight, prepared a grave, with his own hands, for his daughter, for whom Christian burial had been denied by Romish bigotry. It is situated in the corner of a beautiful garden, and a neat tablet of stone, recently erected by one of the numerous admirers of Dr. Young, informs the stranger of the place of interment.

We spent a few days in Marseilles, where we experienced much kindness and hospitality from

MARSEILLES. 19

several friends, to whom we brought letters of introduction. In this important French port, there is but one Protestant church, and that is supplied by three pastors, and has but one service on the Sabbath, and a catechetical lecture during the week. The doctrinal sentiments of the pastors, like those of many of the Protestant clergy in France and Switzerland, are Arian.

A seaman's chapel is much needed in Marseilles. I had expected to have met here with my countryman the Rev. Mr. Rockwell, who had been designated by the American Seaman's Friend Society, to occupy this station, and who had embarked, about the time I left the United States, in one of our national frigates for the Mediterranean.*

It is much to be desired, that this important field of usefulness should be occupied. There are, always, a number of seamen in this port, who understand the English language, and could an amiable, discreet and pious minister be introduced here, as seaman's preacher, he might extend his influence beyond the circle of his immediate charge, and be made useful to those English and

* I have since learnt that Mr. R. has accepted the office of Chaplain on board the Potomac, and continues in the service.

20 GENOA.

American families, who resort here for business, health or pleasure.

We left Marseilles on the 1 5th, for Toulon, Nice and Genoa, over a most delightful country and on the banks of the Mediterranean sea. This part of our journey was rendered very interesting by the romantic and unrivalled scenery through which we passed.

We were now entering upon the territories of the Church at Rome, and had an opportunity of witnessing the paralyzing effects of that ancient, and once formidable, superstition. On this subject, I shall have occasion to enlarge in another place. I will only say here, that while I lost no opportunity of attending a Protestant place of worship, I occasionally went into the Catholic churches, and in Genoa I heard one of the most eloquent preachers, to whom I ever listened. He was a Capuchin Monk, dressed in his monastic habit, with his cowl, and rope for a girdle, and long flowing beard. His gesticulation was peculiarly graceful, and the effect of his oratory upon a large and very attentive congregation, was most solemn and impressive. On the same day I heard a French Protestant deliver a written sermon to a handful of people in a peculiarly cold and heartless manner, which formed a striking contrast to

LEGHORN. 21

the fascinating eloquence of the Italian Monk. I could not but regret that the doctrines of the Reformation were not preached in this Catholic community with more fidelity and with greater power.

At Genoa we embarked in a steam-boat for Naples. The first day brought us to Leghorn, an important port in the Mediterranean. The boat remained there but one day, during which we took the opportunity of visiting Pisa, celebrated for its Leaning Tower, its Cathedral, and Campo Sancto, or holy burying-ground, the earth, of which it is composed, having been literally brought from Jerusalem. Returning from this excursion, we re-embarked in the steam-packet in the evening. On reaching Civita Vecchia, the port on the Mediterranean nearest the city of Rome, we were persuaded to disembark our carriage with most of our luggage, as we were told it would be subject to a heavy duty on its arrival at Naples. I mention this circumstance to show the kind providence of God, which remarkably watched over us in all our ways.

Just before reaching Naples, we passed by the ancient Puteoli^ the place mentioned in the Acts of the Apostles, where Paul landed on his way from Jerusalem to Rome. This place was pointed

22 NAPLES.

out to us by a fellow passenger, a Swiss, who could not speak English, by showing us the chapter and verse, in a French Testament which he held in his hand, that contained the account of the apostle's landing.

We arrived at Naples on Christmas day, in the afternoon. As it was a public day, much observed by the Neapolitans, we were unable to pass our luggage through the Custom House, and were permitted to take on shore with us those articles only, which were needed for immediate use. As we had left most of our clothing with our carriage at Civita Vecchia, we took on shore all that we had with us, consisting of a small portmanteau and a carpet-bag, while all the luggage and merchandise goods, belonging to the other passengers, some of which were of great value, were left on board.

The next morning, we were awakened by our faithful servant, with the intelligence that the steam-boat was consumed by fire, a few hours after the passengers had quitted it. Every thing was destroyed. Some of the passengers lost their all, and some a very great amount of property. Francois, our servant, lost his trunk, and unhappily some valuable property which it contained. Had we not left our carriage at Civita Vecchia,

NAPLES. 23

it would undoubtedly have been destroyed, together with the greater part of our clothing and other valuable articles which it contained. In this, as well as in many other circumstances which occurred during our journeyings, we have abundant occasion to acknowledge, with devout gratitude, the merciful interpositions of a kind and protecting Providence,

Chapter II. Naples — Rome Florence

Naples is one of the most populous cities in Europe, — but its population is miserable and degraded in the extreme. The lazaroni, or common beggars, infest every part of the city, and their squalid poverty is so disgusting, that there is danger of becoming callous and hardened to those sensibilities, which human wretchedness and suffering ought ever to inspire. Here the Catholic religion is to be seen in all its pomp and circumstance. Splendid churches, and the gaudy dresses of its officiating clergy, meet you on every side ; but you look in vain for those salutary and happy influences which a pure and unadulterated Christianity always produces.

But even in this corrupt and wicked place, there are to be found those who have not defiled

NAPLES. 25

their garments. There is a respectable congregation of the Church of England, where the gospel is faithfully preached from Sabbath to Sabbath. The Rev. Mr. Valette, a faithful missionary, to whom I was introduced by my lamented friend, the Rev. Samuel Green of Boston, preaches to a small congregation in French, and to a Swiss regiment in their native tongue. He is a devoted and excellent man, and is doing much good.

From our hotel we had a most delightful view of the Bay of Naples and of the celebrated volcanic mountain, Vesuvius. No eruption took place during our visit, but the smoke, continually ascending from its summit, and the variegated clouds that surrounded it, afforded us from our windows a most sublime and beautiful prospect.

We made an excursion to visit the far-famed excavated cities of Herculaneum and Pompeii. The first of these cities is but partially excavated, but the latter presents to the admiring eye one of the most wonderful scenes that is to be met with on the globe. An entire city, with the remains of its buildings, streets, gardens, baths, tombs, &c. &c, as it existed eighteen hundred years ago, is laid open to the view. All the movable articles, that were found in it, together with many entire skeletons of its wretched inhabi- 3

26 ROME.

tants, are still preserved in the celebrated Museum in Naples, and are well worthy the attention of the curious traveller. We made another excursion to visit the classic ground, rendered memorable by Virgil, and the poets and orators of his time.

We remained in Naples a short time, during which the weather was cold and uncomfortable, and on the 8th of January, 1835, we engaged a carriage and horses to take us to Rome, that ancient city, so celebrated in story and in song, and in the history of the church. What rendered our journey to Rome particularly interesting, was the fact, that we passed over the very same ground that was trodden by the apostle Paul and his companions eighteen centuries ago. Before reaching the city, we noticed the place in which it is supposed stood the Appii Forum or Three Taverns, where the apostle met his Christian friends from Rome, and thanked God and took courage.

The road from Naples to Rome, passing through the long and dreary meadows denominated the Pontine Marshes, is at certain seasons of the year, rendered unhealthy by a disease, called the Malaria, and is frequently infested with banditti. We passed over it, however, without experiencing any

ROME. 27

trouble or inconvenience, and arrived safely on the evening of the 10th, in that city which was once the mistress of the world. t

It will not comport with my design, to give in this place a particular account of this ancient city. Its early history is well known. The remains of many of its celebrated temples, forums, columns, and palaces, afford unceasing satisfaction to the antiquary, the scholar, and the man of taste. But to the Christian, nothing can exceed in interest the apostolic and ecclesiastical associations, by which he is everywhere surrounded. Here, the great Apostle to the Gentiles boldly preached the faith of Christ in his own hired house, and here he sealed his testimony to the truth as it is in Jesus with his blood.

The spacious Ampitheatre, called the Coliseum, still stands in all its massive grandeur, within whose extensive area the blood of the primitive Christians was poured out like water, and their bodies shockingly mangled and devoured by wild beasts, for the amusement of the people. The extensive catacombs, or subterranean passages, still remain, within whose dark and mazy labyrinths the primitive Christians sought refuge from their bloody persecutors, and " sang praises to Christ as God." They served, also, as sepulchres for their slaugh-

28 ROME.

tered dead, and their gloomy cells are, to this day, whitened with the bones of martyrs.

While there is much to interest the Christian antiquary in exploring the localities, so intimately associated with the early propagators of his faith, his heart is pained within him in witnessing, on every side, the lamentable effects of that degrading superstition, which has usurped the place of a purer faith, in this renowned and venerable city. Heathen temples, it is true, have been converted into nominally Christian churches, but idolatry remains the same, though disguised by different and purer names. The famous bronze statue of the apostle Peter, which stands in the splendid edifice that bears his name, is said to have been the personification of Jupiter, taken from a heathen temple, and the numerous statues and paintings of the holy virgin, which everywhere meet the eye, have taken the places that were once occupied by Venus and other goddesses of the heathen mythology. Indeed, the transition from ancient polytheism to Romish superstition, appears neither forced nor unnatural. The gorgeous vestments of the Catholic priesthood, bring us back, very sensibly, in our imaginations, to the interior of heathen temples and the services of pagan altars ; and, while witnessing their pompous processions

ROME. 29

and solemn mockery, we seem to forget that we are living in the nineteenth century of the Christian era, and almost fancy ourselves walking the streets of Rome, when in the glory of her power and the height of her idolatrous worship. We are soon, however, awakened from this reverie of the imagination, by the images of faded glory and departed greatness, which, on all sides, meet the view of the observant traveller.

Rome is, evidently, in a dilapidated and decaying state. Its population is gradually declining, and nothing but the annual influx of foreigners prevents it from entire decay. Many, if not a large proportion of its inhabitants are entirely supported by the liberal disbursements of the wealthy English, who visit this ancient city during the winter season, and I am persuaded, notwithstanding the boasting of the friends of the Eternal City, that, should the event of war, or any other cause interrupt her intercourse with England, she would soon lose her municipal existence.

Of the importance of this dependent relation, the civil authorities appear to be aware, and the Pope himself winks at the establishment of a Protestant Episcopal church, though for the sake of apparent consistency, it stands a few rods outside the gate of the city. This place of wor-

30 ROME.

ship is well attended by the numerous English, who reside in the city, and although many of them are gay and fashionable, and apparently worldly minded, they are favored with the services of an evangelical and faithful clergyman, who does not " shun to declare the whole counsel of God."

During a month's residence in Rome, I had repeated opportunities of witnessing the ritual and various ceremonies of the Catholic church, and my impression has been, that, although among the ignorant and lower classes of the people, there may be found many sincere devotees to its superstitious peculiarities, it has but a very slight hold upon the cool and deliberate judgment of the more intelligent part of the community. The priesthood is very numerous, for the endowments of the church afford a livelihood to many, who would otherwise perish for want of bread. But, if I do not much mistake, many of the ecclesiastics themselves have very little confidence in the value or efficacy of their official duties. — The Pope, who is far advanced in life, seems to be a sincere, though bigoted Catholic, who appears to discharge his sacerdotal functions with great gravity and unaffected seriousness and solemnity. He is not unfrequently visited by Protestant strangers ; and he had made an appointment to receive several Amer-

ROME. 31

ican friends of my acquaintance, but our departure from the city, a few days previous to the appointed time, deprived us of the opportunity we should otherwise have had, of a personal interview.

My conviction, from my observation since I have been travelling in Catholic countries is, that the faith of the church of Rome is decidedly on the wane, — that its most intelligent and observant advocates are fully sensible of it, — and that they are looking forward to its revivification in the new world. But in this forlorn hope, I trust, and confidently believe, they will be disappointed. I am not insensible to the efforts that have recently been made, and are now making, for the establishment and spread of Romanism in our own country, especially in the great valley of the Mississippi. That there is danger to be apprehended from these efforts, cannot be denied, and that every means should be used, consistent with Christian principle and duty to arrest the progress of this fatal heresy, will not be questioned by every friend of his country and the cause of pure and undefiled religion. But I cannot think, for a moment, that the man of sin will ever obtain a predominant influence in this free and happy land. I have too much confidence in the virtue and intelligence of the people. Where the means of education are

32 FLORENCE.

so generally enjoyed, as they are in our country, it is morally impossible that the Catholic faith, which depends for its existence and nutriment on the ignorance of mankind, should ever obtain a permanent footing, much less should ever become the prevailing religion of the land. This firm persuasion, however, should not lessen in any degree, our persevering and judicious endeavors to counteract the efforts that are making by the Roman Pontiff, and other Catholic potentates in Europe, to establish and patronize the peculiarities of their faith in the western world.

After having seen most of the objects of curiosity in ancient and modern Rome, we pursued our journey in our carriage (which had arrived from Civita Vecchia) to the north of Italy. I need not say, that we left Rome with much regret, as we never expected to visit it again. In this ancient and celebrated city there is much to interest the admirer of the fine arts. As a specimen of architecture, nothing can exceed the interior of St. Peter's church. I visited it again and again, and was never satiated, nor even satisfied. It was with no trifling emotions of regret that we beheld its lofty dome gradually disappear from our view, as we took our departure on the 17th of February, from Rome for Florence.

FLORENCE. 33

Our journey to this far-famed city of the arts, renowned as the residence of the distinguished family of the Medici, was performed without any memorable occurrence. We spent about ten days in visiting its celebrated gallery of statuary and paintings — the royal residence of the Grand Duke of Tuscany — the public gardens — the magnificent Duomo, or Cathedral, and several beautiful churches.

During our short residence in Florence, we had an opportunity of witnessing a striking instance of Catholic superstition. It had been for several weeks a season of severe drought. It was publicly announced that a celebrated picture of a female martyr, which had been for a long period concealed from the vulgar gaze, would be exposed to the sight and adorations of the people, that through her intercessions, accompanying the prayers of the faithful, the desired blessing might be procured. For three successive days, the church, where the picture was exhibited, was thronged by credulous devotees, and among them the Grand Duke and Duchess of Tuscany, and many of the nobility. Towards the close of the third day, the rain fell in torrents, and the numerous bells throughout the city announced the complete success of the miracle. ■

34 FLORENCE.

Such miracles are of frequent occurrence in the Catholic church. We arrived in Naples a few days too late to witness the celebrated miracle which is annually performed, of the liquefaction of the blood of St. Januarius. This saint is the patron saint of Naples, and suffered martyrdom in the neighborhood of that city, at an early period of the Christian era. Some of his blood is reported to have been preserved, and to remain in a congealed state, except on the return of the anniversary of his death, when it is said to liquefy in the presence of a vast number of admiring devotees. One of our countrymen, who arrived a few days too late to witness this wonderful transmutation, on expressing his regret to one of the priests, was gravely told, that, at a very trifling expense, his curiosity might immediately be gratified. — Such is the astonishing ignorance and delusion which prevails among this degraded population.

We had frequent opportunities, while in Florence, of seeing our distinguished countryman, Mr. Greenough, who is employed by Congress in executing a colossal statue of the father of his country, to be placed in the Capitol at Washington. — We saw also the Duke and Duchess of Tuscany, both in private and in public.

The state of religion in Florence, as far as I

FLORENCE. 35

could judge, is exceedingly low, and grossly superstitious. There is indeed an English Episcopal church in the city, but no one is admitted without pay, and the preaching is said not to be worth the money. I preferred attending a small French Protestant congregation, where the gospel is preached without money and without price. There is something exceedingly revolting to my mind in demanding a fee for entrance into the house of God, where rich and poor, high and low, should meet together.

Chapter III. Venice — Milan — Geneva

From Florence we proceeded to Venice, through Bologna, Ferrara and Padua. Leaving our carriage at Fusina, we embarked in a gondola for the city of the sea, where we should have no need of horses to convey us from one part of it to another.

Venice, though evidently in a state of decline, is still a most interesting city. Its unique appearance, as standing on the sea, (or rather on a number of sunken islands,) intersected by canals, instead of streets, strikes the stranger with pleasing admiration. But it is not the object of this brief narrative to indulge in topographical description; if it were, this marine city, which was the favorite residence of the talented but perverted author of " Childe Harold," would furnish abundant material

VENICE. 37

for the purpose. We stood where he stood, on the Bridge of Sighs — " a prison and a palace on each hand." We visited them both. The palace of the Doges in the proud days of the republic, though not at present occupied by the constituted authorities, is shown to strangers. Its spacious halls — its extensive library — the very rooms that were occupied by the council of " Three Hundred," and the still more dreaded council of " Three," were opened for our inspection, and, I need not say, recalled to our minds scenes of painful interest, which was not lessened by the visit which we subsequently paid to the former prison and dungeons of the Inquisition. After receiving their sentence, the unhappy victims of a cruel superstition passed from the hall of judgment over the bridge of sighs to their gloomy cell, and thence, as soon as they were shriven by the appointed confessor, into the eternal world.

We passed a week in Venice — visited many of its splendid churches and palaces — and were much gratified in viewing the statuary and paintings which they contained. We were there on the last days of the Carnival — and for two or three nights, the spacious square of St. Mark was filled with people, many of them disguised in the most grotesque forms of masquerade.