The round trip by way of Panama through California, Oregon, Nevada, Utah, Idaho, and Colorado with notes on railroads, commerce, agriculture, mining, scenery, and people

Front matter

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Preface

Desiring to be on familiar terms with my readers, I have adopted the unconstrained style of a personal narrative, without any affectation of modesty in avoiding the use of personal pronouns.

Lest complaint should be made of anachronisms, and there should be discoveries of ubiquity, the reader is notified that this book is the result of more than one year's experience, brought up as nearly as possible to the conditions of the present day, and combined as continuous.

I wish to point out objects of interest not often "written up." Thus, little is said of large cities, and absolutely nothing of the Yosemite.

The tourist starts upon the Trans-Continental tour with a library of illustrated guide-books and maps, some of which are indispensable. If he goes directly from New York to San Francisco, and thence directly returns, they are all that are necessary.

If, however, he has the leisure and inclination to look at some things not exactly on the line of railroads, he may perhaps profitably make a selection from The Round Trip.

Chapter I

A Winter Trip to California by the Isthmus Route — Leaving New York — At Sea — Nearino the Warm Regions — Social Lines on Shipboard — San Salvador — ^A Cultured Young Lady — Aspinwall — ^The Princess Columbus Married— A Duel Page i

CHAPTER IL

The Trip Across the Isthmus of Darien — ^The Commerce OF the Isthmus — Surveys for a Canal — Panama Railroad Company — The Terminus on the Pacific Side — Panama — Its Eventful History — Commerce of the City — British Enterprise 9

CHAPTER HI.

A Comfortable old Ship — Settling a Feminine Dispute — "The Pacific Agitator" — Ports and Trade of Central America — Acapulco — Arrival at San Fran- CISCO 17 viii CONTENTS.

CHAPTER IV.

CALIFORNIA.

A Fable — ^A Reminiscence of 1848 — The Comparative Production of Gold and Silver — ^The Career of James C. Flood, one of the Bonanza Kings .... Page 27

CHAPTER V.

Leaving for Southern California — ^The Pious Agriculturist — Great and Small Farmers — Irrigation — Ridicule OF Fever and Ague— A California Editor's Homestead 32

CHAPTER VI.

The " Corkscrew " and " Loop " — ^The Autocrat of the Desert — Below the Level of the Sea — A Crazy Plan FOR Irrigation — ^The City of Tum a — ^The Onward March OF the Southern Pacific Railroad— Future Prospects OF Arizona — ^The Indians and their Chief ... 42

CHAPTER VII.

Rival towns in the San Bernardino Valley — Newspaper Enterprise — Paradise of Orange Trees — Intellectuality AND Laziness — Mormon and Roman Catholic Civilizations — ^1'he Mission of San Gabriel and its Good Wine 53

CHAPTER VIII.

Los Angelos — Disappearance of the Greasers — A Kentuckian's Discovery of Contentment — ^The Founder of THE California Wine Industry — Statistics of Orange Culture 63

CONTENTS. \x

CHAPTER IX.

Natural Divisions of California — Anaheim — A Thrifty German Settlement Page 68

CHAPTER X.

Sanguine " Sanjaigans " — Effects of the Drought — Santa Monica — A Steamship with a History — San Buenaventura — ^The Ojai Valley — Missionary Enterprise . 74

CHAPTER XI.

A Stage Ride up the California Coast — The Coach er's Yarns — How a Clergyman was Re-Baptized — The City with the Perfect Climate — A Small Landowner AND HIS Trifling Possessions 79

CHAPTER XII.

The UPS and downs of Travel — The Death of the Herds — A Sand Storm — San Luis Obispo — ^The Springs of Paso DE Rubles — Baths of Water and of Earth — German Explanation of the Mud Baths — Hotel Life in a Cottage 84

CHAPTER XIIL

End of the Stage-coach Romance — The Boundary of Southern California — Mexican Grants — Approach to Santa Cruz — Its Early History — Its Attractions . 94

CHAPTER XIV.

From Santa Cruz to San Jose — The Garden of Santa CiJVRA Valley — The Towns of San Jose and Santa

X CONTEATTS.

Clara — Another Mission — The Church and the Grape-Wine and 3randy — ^The Enterprise of General Naglee Page I02

CHAPTER XV.

Northern California — Mount Shasta in the Distance- Railroads — Farming ON A Large Scale iii

CHAPTER XVI.

Review of the Mining and Agricultural Interests of California — Along the Sacramento — Napa — Calistoga — The Petrified Forest — The Geysers — San Francisco T19

CHAPTER XVII.

'^ The Chinese Problem " 126

CHAPTER XVIII.

Along the Coast to Oregon — Discovery of the Columbia River — ^Thk Bar — Industries of Oregon — Salmon Fishery; 135

CHAPTER XIX.

Astoria — Portland — ^Willamette Valley — Scenery of the Columbia — The Dalles — Indian Troubles — Oregon's Opportunity — Departure 145

CHAPTER XX.

From California Eastwards — The Mines and Gardens of Grass Valley — Lake Tahoe, Carson and Virginia City — The Sinks of the Humboldt — The Great American Desert — Arrival at Salt Lake City 158

CONTENTS. Xi

CHAPTER XXI.

Sunset at Salt Lake — The Mormon Jerusalem — The Assembly OF THE Saints — The Late Brigham Young — The Closeof THE Conference — Society in Utah . . Page 169

CHAPTER XXn.

Out into the Country — ^The Great Salt Lake — Mormon AND Gentile Towns — Elections — Ophir Camp — Successful Business Men 178

CHAPTER XXHL

Camp Floyd Ruled by a Bishop and the BisHOP Ruled BY his Wife — William Hickman — Lehi and the Bishop who Ruled his Wives and his Diocese — The Garden OF Isaac Goodwin 189

CHAPTER XXIV.

Sorghum — Luzerne — The American Fork Canon . . 202

CHAPTER XXV.

Provo — Factory and Co-operative Store — The Two Mormon Sects — ^The Childless Bishop and his Nine Fortunate Brothers 207

CHAPTER XXVI.

The Journey to the South — The Hotel at Payson — Our Landlady's Choice — Mormon and Gentile Amenities — Hospitalities of the Bishops — Mount Nebo — Energetic Conduct of a Bishop's Wife — San Pete Valley — War, the Consequence of Miss Ward's Obstinacy — A Monogamous Mormon Town — Reflections of Mrs. Price — ^The Coal Mines 213 xii CONTENTS,

CHAPTER XXVII.

r

Towns and Villages in the San Pete Valley — German Preaching — Providing Tabernacles for Disembodied Spirits — Brigham Young's Journey — The Mountain Meadow Massacre — Life and Character of the Apostle George A. Smith . • Page 223

CHAPTER XXVIII.

Impressions of Travel in Utah upon the Female Mind— The Storm in Clear Creek Canon — Cove Fort — ^The Ute Indians — Angutseeds and Kanosh — On the Way to the North — Fillmore — Scipio— Lost on the Desert — The TiNTEC Mines — Return to Salt Lake City. . . . 235

CHAPTER XXIX.

Idaho — Soda Springs — Natural Curiosities — The Utah AND Northern Railroad — A Jumping Town — The Bannock Indians — Policy of the Government .... 254

CHAPTER XXX.

Travels among the Mormons — The Prolific Patriarch — The Legend of Bear Lake — Brother Cook and his Family — ^Vicarious Baptism — A Mormon Court — A Prosperous Convert — Blacksmith's Fork Canon — Return TO THE Line of the Union Pacific 268

CHAPTER XXXI.

The Union Pacific Railroad— The Rocky Mountains — Easy-going Emigrants — Greeley, on the road to Denver 2S2

CONTENTS. xiii

CHAPTER XXXII.

The City of Denver — Sunday — Climate — Railroad.s — Enthusiastic McAllister — Colorado Springs — Colorado City — Manitou — " Garden of the Gods " and Canons Page 286

CHAPTER XXXIII.

Ascent of Pike's Peak — The Hermit of the Mountain — The Signal Station — A Hunting Expedition — On the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad 297

CHAPTER XXXIV.

Pueblo — ^The Denver and Rio Grande, and the Atchison, ToPEKA and Santa Fe Railroads — Canon City — ^The Grand Canon of the Arkansas — Denver again — Colorado Central Railroad — Idaho Springs — Georgetown — General Grant's Drive — Return to the Line of the Union Pacific 307

CHAPTER XXXV.

Cheyenne— ^Projected Railroad to the Black Hills — The Great Cattle Range — Life of the Ranchman — Suggestions to Young Men — Nebraska — ^Omaha — The Bridge Across the Missouri — Railroads to Chicago — The Chicago and North-West — A Dinner in the Hotel-Car — Contrast of Mining and Agriculture — Conclusion 320

THE ROUND TRIP.

A Winter Trip to California by the Isthmus Route- Leaving New York — At Sea — Nearing the Warm Regions — Social Lines on Shipboard— San Salvador —A Cultured Young Lady — Aspinwall — ^The Princess Columbus Married— A Duel- There is not a great degree of self-sacrifice in bidding one's native land adieu when the cold March winds are whistling around the corners of city blocks, and the streets are ankle deep in snow and slush.

Cheerless as were the skies overhead, their cheerlessness did not pervade our hearts, and there were few among the passengers of the " Colon " who were not willing to say good-by to their friends on the wharf, pitying rather than env>'ing those who remained behind. The " Colon " is one of the new iron screw steamships of the Pacific Mail Steamship Company, complete in all her appointments, and ably commanded by Captain Griffin, who has had a long experience in the service. Before she had reached the Hook and discharged the pilot there were ominous signs of a gale— dark masses of clouds heaving up in the north-east, and soon spreading themselves like palls over the heavens. Then came the rushing of the blast, bringing with it driving hail and snow, covering the decks. The good ship plunged into the south-west sea that fought in crested ranks against the advancing waves from the north-east ; the red light on the port and the green light on the starboard side glared into the gloom, eyes of red and green shot across our foamy track, stared at us for an instant as they passed, and we were alone upon the deep. For us the whole world became concentrated in the cabins covered by the small area of our decks.

For three days the north-east gale lasted and drove us across the gloomy waters of the gulf stream down to calm and serene regions in the balmy air of the tropics.

As many who had been snugly stowed away in their staterooms came out to breathe the fresh air on deck, we began to know each other. Heretofore the passengers had thought more of themselves than of society. Now, some of the ladies who had only occasionally appeared in very simple attire, the grace of whiclrxwas heightened by the looseness of their floating locks, •considered it necessary to " do up their hair " and to pull back their flowing robes in such a manner as to make the ascent of the companion-way more difficult. Fashion resumed its sway in our little world. We were introduced over again to some of those we did not recognize in their disguise, and long before we arrived, the eighty cabin passengers had divided themselves into coteries and sets, to the best of their ability, after the fashion of people in larger communities. It is astonishing how quickly women take the measure of each other. Men who belong to them, and who are not able to make such nice distinctions, are i

A WINTER TRIP TO CALIFORNIA, . 3

soon made aware that they will transgress by an innocent recognition of " that woman," who has been tabooed upon suspicion I Oh, yes I there is a West End and a Fifth Avenue on board of a steamer. She has her South End and her Bowery. Big worlds move and little worlds move, and ants of various degrees crawl around upon them all.

Many people prefer, as we have done, to make the trip to San Francisco by steamer and over the isthmus rather than by rail, especially when for them there is no novelty in the overland road. In summer the Inducements of the route are not so great, but for those who have the time to spare it cannot be more pleasantly and healthfully employed at this season.

There is something inexpressibly luxurious in escaping from the clasp of dreary winter, without even a day of intervening spring, and falling into the soft arms of summer repose. Overcoats and sealskin jackets drop off as if by magic, and each passenger comes out from his chrysalis in a new dress.

It was almost sad to witness the calm delight of some invalids who had left home with the fond hope that health would come to them on the wings of the mild zephyrs of the South, and from the ozone of the sea air. Alas 1 how often they are disappointed ! But this is not apparent to them at the outset, and they flatter themselves — and the well meant but feigned encouragement of friends aids in the deception — ^that they are realizing their fond expectations, while to strangers who look on with quiet sympathy, the hectic flush, the glassy eye and hollow cough tell the story of inevitable decline and death. The favorable appearances caused by milder weather are evanescent; and, as the flower that for a day turns its grateful face to the sun and dies at night from the heat it has courted, the consumptive becomes enervated by what at first seems a genial warmth, until sooner than if he had remained at hbme he falls a victim to a a false hope. Too often the physician, fearful that the patient may die on his hands, thoughtlessly recommends the trial of a warmer climate, when change of any kind comes too late, whereas^ in the outset, he should have advised a person of delicate lungs to hasten to the mountains of Colorado or Montana.

On the 2 1 St day of March, four days from New York, we passed the island of San Salvador, or Watkins Island, as it is now called, with disgraceful disregard of the renowned discoverer, who gave its original name.

Well might Columbus have hailed this low islet on that eventful morning when it met him, in advance of a new continent, as the " Holy Savior " from the threatened mutiny of his crew. While cities of the old world have contended for the honor of his birth, and those of the old world and the new have in turn served as places of his burial, this island commemorates the most important event of his life, and is the earliest landmark of American history. It would be a fitting tribute to his memory, and, moreover, serve as a guide to passing navigators, if the American republics would raise upon its highest mound a high and enduring monument in his honor.

" Dear me," exclaimed a young lady, as we were running close under its lee, "so that is the island discovered by Columbus ! " "Yes, ma'am," replied a nautical gentleman at her side, " and that large house on the height is the one first occupied by him. He was married to the Indian princess in that church at the foot of the hill."

"Oh, how lovely — how romantic it must have been ! I am so glad you told me ! "

" Why, did you never read that in your geography, or history of America ? "

A WINTER TRIP TO CALIFORNIA. 5

" Geography ? No ! I never had one, and histories are vulgar. You know they are all written in English. I believe they do teach them, however, at the primary schools in Boston. I never heard Emerson or Weiss talk about such things. Oh, don't you think that Emerson is splendid ? How he takes one out of one's self, and lifts the soul into the blue empyrean of the universe, to revel in the realms of psychological investigation ! "

Passing through the channel that separates Cuba from St. Domingo we were reminded of one of the most humiliating events in our national history — the capture of the "Virginius" and the unpardonable submissiveness of the United States government. The cheek of every American should blush with shame and indignation when he remembers how in the autumn of 1874 that little blockade-runner, for she was neither more nor le$s, commanded by an American citizen and under the American flag, unarmed and without the intention of her captain or crew to participate in active hostilities, was captured outside of the prescribed distance from the Cuban shore by a Spanish gunboat, brought into a Cuban port, and her captain and crew shot down without a trial affording opportunity for defense. After the deed was done our government remonstrated, we used diplomacy, months passed on and we obtained possession of a useless old hulk for future adjudication, and purposely allowed her to sink off Cape Hatteras to avoid further trouble with "a friendly power."

After a run of three days through the Caribbean Sea, we approached the end of our voyage on the Atlantic side. On Sunday, the eighth day from New York, land at Navy Bay hove in sight, and at an early hour in the afternoon we made the port of Aspinwall.

With what infinite delight did the first comers to the tropics land on this shore, skirted with palms and bananas ! Lolling negroes, chattering monkeys, croaking papagayas, piles of cocoanuts, plantains, oranges and pineapples, thatched shanties, stagnant ditches, clouds of mosquitos — all greeted us at once and welcomed our ship's company to the Isthmus of Panama.

Aspinwall is the American, and Colon the Spanish name for this miserable collection of huts, containing a few hundred inhabitants. The Panama Railroad Company own all the buildings fit for dwellings and the docks, excepting that of the Pacific Mail Steamship Company. A church where English service is held, is the only public edifice.

Near by is a monument — of no especial attractiveness^ erected to Aspinwall, Chauncey and Stephens, the founders of the Panama Railroad. Not far from it is a bronze statue of Columbus, of greater artistic merit, deserving a site where it might be better seen and appreciated. It was a present from the Empress Eugenie to this little town, because it bore the name of the immortal discoverer. For want of a firm foundation — difficult to find in this miasmatic swamp — it is blocked up with a few stones upon the morass. Here it serves the convenience of washerwomen, who hang their clothes upon the arms and legs of Columbus and those of the Indian princess who, bending before him, represents the continent on which he lays his hand.

" So that is the princess Columbus married," exclaimed Miss Culture, of Boston. '' What a disgraceful position I I would not stoop to any man in that way, even if he had a continent to settle upon me."

" The dower was in the other direction ; she gave the continent to him," I replied.

" More shame to her, then. She should be represented as standing thus " — straightening herself to the utmost of her little

A WINTER TRIP TO CALIFORNIA, y

height—" and he should have been at her feet. Woman did not understand her true position in those days." Well, she has a realizing sense of it now I

On the passage there had arisen a fierce dispute between a testy ex-Confederate major, of Baltimore, and a usually quiet young gentleman of San Francisco, regarding the pre-eminence of their respective cities. This resulted in a^challenge on the part of the military hero, which was promptly accepted by the civilian, and an appointment made for a meeting, to take place as soon as practicable after arrival. To do the major justice, he was no coward. Preparing for a result, possibly fatal to himself, with a steady hand he drew and signed his will, and gave directions that in such case his body should be embalmed and sent to his relatives.

A little party left the steamer late in the afternoon, and pro« ceeded to the outskirts of the village, where, in a beautiful spot under the shade of palms, the ground was selected and measured. Standing fifteen paces apart, the antagonists discharged their pistols simultaneously, without effect. At the second fire, the Californian brought his left hand to his forehead, and the red current was seen to flow from between his fingers as he fell into the arms of his second.

The major was now beside himself, actuated equally by a feeling of remorse and a regard for personal safety. Like Richard, he would have given his kingdom for a horse — nay, if he had possessed a kingdom, he would have given it for a mule —on which to escape into the wilderness.

But the ship's surgeon, who was on the ground, upon examining the wound, pronounced it only a concussion of the os frontis and a slight abrasion of the epidermis, suggestive of no serious consequences ; and as all the requirements of honor had been satisfied, ever}'body returned to the ship in a happy frame of mind.

The doctor placed a patch upon the forehead of the Californian, which disfigured him somewhat on his appearance at dinner ; and the major did not discover, until the next day, when the plaster fell off, that there had been no wound, because there had been no bullets in the pistols, and no blood had been shed, because a sponge, saturated with red ink, had been used for the occasion*

THE TRIP ACROSS THR ISTHMUS OF DARJRN, ETC.

Chapter II

The Trip Across the Isthmus of Darien — ^The Commerce OF the Isthmus — Surveys for a Canal — Panama Railroad Company — The Terminus on the Pacific Side — Panama — Its Eventful History — Commerce of the City — British Enterprise.

Notwithstanding the insignificant appearance of Panama, its commercial importance cannot be overestimated. The Isthmus of Darien holds two keys in its hands : one unlocking the commerce of the world on the Pacific side, and the other opening it upon the Atlantic. Eight lines of steamships keep their vessels loading and unloading at the wharves, and millions of treasure and merchandise are in almost daily transit. On the week of our arrival 80,000 bags— over 10,000,000 pounds —of coffee were shipped from Aspinwall, and this product is but a small part of its commerce.

The country about produces little comparatively, yet a weekly shipment of 600 tons of bananas is not a trifling operation. All the trade is now carried over the Panama Railroad, whose construction has multiplied it a thousand-fold.

The Panama Railroad and the Pacific Mail Steamship Company have been our great commercial missionaries in these latter

JO ^^^ ROC/ND TRIP.

days, already rivalling in their work the steam and railroad communication with the East by way of Suez. Should the road be succeeded by a canal, the victory would be complete. The sand might then be allowed to fill up the work of M. Lesseps, as ages ago it filled it after his predecessor under the Pharaohs, had accomplished a similar undertaking.

It is now freely admitted that a canal across the isthmus of Darien is practicable, and the only question is one of expense. Two hundred million dollars are required ; and the great republic that could spend $4,000,000,000 in a civil war, nearly one-half of which was, in one way or another, stolen by contractors and officials, hesitates about this comparatively paltry sum I If the work is ever accomplished, it will be done by British capital, for the interest of British commerce that, with our concurrence of indifference, now dominates the globe. How mortifying is our commercial decadence ! While we quarrel about the personal claims of candidates for the Presidency and the small politics of the day, we do nothing for our commerce but fetter it with new shackles. All the attention we have given to our ever-changing tariffs with a view to " protection," has had the effect of protecting England and Germany in making them the carriers of the ocean. We argue that man can rise only by being made free, and that commerce can rise only by having its freedom taken away. This western continent is ours by the law of nature and the opportunity of neighborhood, and we reject the boon which Providence brings to our doors.

England is our great rival, and Germany is becoming a rival not to be despised. Both these nations encourage their manufactures, not by protecting mill-owners in order to keep out the goods of foreign nations ; not by protecting ship-builders in order that other people who can build cheaper ships may steal our

THE TRIP ACROSS THE ISTHMUS OF DARIEN. ETC n

carrying trade, but they protect their subjects with the surest protection — that of liberty: liberty to buy and sell every thing, merchandise and ships included, in the most favorable markets of their own selection.

Still, in spite of the neglect of our government, steamships and railroads are introducing our manufactures on the west coast of North and South America, while England is bringing by far the greater quantity of cheaper goods in cheaper

*

ships. Our necessity in competition is to diminish the cost of both. Reduce our tariif so that the operatives of Lowell can live at the same expense as those of Manchester, and repeal at once the odious registry laws, so that Americans need no longer be the only subjects — and I use the word intentionally—on earth who cannot own a steamship without paying one or two Delaware ship-builders whatever they see fit to demand for whatever kind of a ship they see fit to supply, and then we shall be on equal terms with England. This done, if the canal is constructed, we shall have the commerce and the carrying trade not only of the west coast of America, but of the world, in our hands.

The late explorations for a canal across the Isthmus of Darien have been no improvements upon that made by our distinguished fellow-citizen, the late William Wheelwright, whose enterprises contributed so much to the prosperity of the South American republics.

About the year 1825, Mr. Wheelwright ascended the Chagres River and took an informal survey of the isthmus, with a view of making a canal, or rather of demonstrating that the project was feasible. He selected almost the identical route now occupied by the railroad, tracing a line, the greatest elevation of which was a little over 200 feet. Lloyd Falmark, Gavella,

CourtineSy and the various exploring expeditions authorized by the governments of England, France, and the United States, have succeeded no better, and if ever the project is carried out, it will doubtless be on the line of the first survey, unless the Nicaraguan scheme should be adopted.

In the mean time, the Panama Railroad Company is in assured possession, and will maintain its power for many years to come. Its profits are very large notwithstanding the enormous taxation to which it is obliged to submit to meet the exactions of the government of New Granada.

The greatest difficulty attending all enterprises in these regions rises from the instability of the administrations. The company made a bargain with the rulers who happened to be uppermost at the time, and received a concession, upon the condition of paying $250,000 annually; but in various ways, such as free transportation of troops, munitions, etc., the road is made to pay the government a sum equal to $1000 per day, a severe subtraction from its receipts.

It is the custom of the steamship company to forward its passengers and fast freight immediately by railroad to Panama, in time to meet the connecting steamer — the balance of the cargo being more leisurely carried over, to be shipped in the succeeding one.

Our rate of progress was not rapid, nor did we regret its slowness. Amidst tropical verdure and jungles surely breathing miasma in the rainy season, and along the banks of the Chagres, now almost dry, we wound at the rate of twelve miles an hour, the whole distance being forty-eight miles to the terminus on the Pacific. A few wretched villages, inhabited by half, quarter and other fractional breeds of the Indian, negro and Spanish races, skirted the road. We occasionally stopped to take water for the

THE TRIP ACROSS THE ISTHMUS OF DARIEN, ETC, 13

engine and fruit for ourselves, in which novelty many indulged freely, and fortunately without inconvenience ; but the practice is not to be commended.

Mr. Mozly, the superintendent of the road, was on board the train, and was never weary in answering the questions, for which he had ready replies, as they had doubtless been often proposed to him before. Nevertheless, our obligations were as great as if he had been catechised for the first time. He is the agent of the Panama Railroad and the Pacific Mail Steamship Company, these corporations being connected with each other in some way mysterious to the uninitiated, but doubtless satisfactory to those most interested.

Totally different is the appearance of the ancient city of Panama from the mushroom town of Aspinwall. It is built of stone and brick, in distinction from adobe and palm-leaf thatch. Shorn of its former splendor and wealth, now squalid and poor, it still presents an appearance of solidity defying the total ex* tinction which a tempest might bring upon the other town in an hour.