The emigrant's note book and guide

Front matter

I u>

THE

EMIGRANT'S NOTE BOOK

Preface

If At the commencement of the late

war with the United States of America, the first and second battalions of Royal Marines, under the command of lieutenant-colonels Sir Richard Williams, and Sir James Malcolm, Knights Commanders of the Bath, were recalled from the north of Spain, and after being properly recruited and equipped, were dispatched for the coast of America, in the early part of the year 1813.

VI PREFACE.

The Islands of Bermuda was the first point of rendezvous ; and here we arrived on the 23d May, after a passage of six weeks, in his Majesty's ships Diadem, Diamede, Fox, Nemisses, Success and Romulus, armed en flute, and Mariner armed transport.

The events which occurred in the voyage, were such as occur to other people, similarly situated, and therefore need no particular description.

I shall consequently only observe, that my companions were just such as a man would wish to be embarked with, for a long voyage, and to those friends —

" Well pleased I turn'd Regardless of the storms which raged without."

A brief sketch of the Bermudas may, however, amuse the fire-side traveller, who may peruse these pages.

PREFACE. vii

This cluster of Islands, which the Bermudians insist on being exactly 365 in number, contains not more than 20,000 acres, generally very light land, and of no extraordinary fertility.

They are situated at a great distance from any other island or continent, in 32 N. latitude, and 63 W. longitude ; 4,500 miles from the Land's-end, Cornwall ; 3,500 from Madeira, and 500 miles E. of Charlestown, South Carolina.

They appear to have received their first name from John Bermuda, a Spaniard, who discovered them in 1552, and were afterwards called the Summer Islands, from Sir Geo. Summers, who was shipwrecked upon them in 1609.

Finding them deserted bv the Spaniards, he took possession of

Vlll PREFACE.

them, and they have ever since remained in the hands of the English.

The inhabitants had formerly a small traffic in vegetables, with the West Indian Islands, likewise in a particular description of hat, made of the Palmetto tree, then generally worn in warm climates. Cedar is at present their principal staple commodity, and these trees they cultivate with the greatest care and attention ; their property and consequence being generally estimated by the number of slaves and cedars they possess.

These two commodities likewise constitute their children's fortunes.

With the latter, the Bermudians build their far-famed, fast sailing schooners, with which they drive a considerable trade between North America, and the West Indies.

During the late war, Bermuda was

PREFACE. IX

one of the principal rendezvous for the English Fleet, in that quarter of the world, although the passage to the anchorage, through a long reef of rocks, is one of peculiar danger in bad weather.

Tobacco and arrow root are likewise cultivated in these islands, which, from their numbers, afford numerous harbours and bays, for small craft, in all directions through the plantations.

Here the cedar, the palmetto, the wild thyme, tamarind, cocoa nut, and bahama trees, with various others, decorate the vallies, whilst a thousand variegated shrubs and flowers "dispense native perfumes," making the imagination almost fancy itself in fairy land.

The most remarkable of the feathered creation are the Tropic blue

X JPREFACE,

and red birds, or Virginian Nightingales, of beautiful plumage, but whose notes are far inferior to those of the English Thrush. Likewise the little Humming Bird, of exa^usite beauty, whose beak is nearly the length of his body, and whose whole frame is very little larger than a Queen Bee.

The domesticated part of the feathered tribe are, however, not so secure from harm as those who roam free and unconfmed ; such incredible swarms of rats harbour in the crevices of the rocks, as renders the greatest care necessary, to prevent every unfortunate fowl from being carried off by these midnight marauders.

The principal Islands are Ireland, where there is a naval depot and dock-yard, St. George's, St. David's, Somerset, Long, Bird, Cooper, and

PREFACE. XI

Nonsuch. The capital town is St. George^s, which contains about 2,000 houses, and is defended by several forts.

Provisions were exorbitantly high in the Bermudas during the war, and in this respect it was a wretched quarter ; for above all the natural beauties of a country, in a time of scarcity —

" There is a pleasure in a good sirloin Which starvelings only know."

In the midst of this general privation of eatables, however, I remember drinking some very fair claret, at 3s. the bottle.

The village of Hamilton is finely situated on the shelving shore of an extensive bay ; and about two miles from this place, " The army of the coast !" was encamped and organized.

Xll PREFACE.

The two flank companies, with one wing of the 102d regiment, and the second battalion royal marines, formed the first brigade under the command orLieut. Colonel Napier. The second brigade consisted of the first battalion royal marines, and a detachment of foreign light infantry — this was commanded by Lieut. Colonel Sir Richard Williams, and each brigade had a company of royal marine artillery attached to it, under Captains Park and Parry.

The whole force, amounting to about 2,400 men (subject to the directions of Admirals Sir John Warren and Sir George Cockburn), was placed under the command of Major General Sir Sydney Beckwith, an officer of experience in the Peninsula, and who had with Lieut. Colonel Napier particularly distinguished him-

PREFACE. Xlll

self in the battle on the heights above Corunna, where the latter, (then Major of the 50th) was dangerously wounded. His life was however happily spared to his country and his friends, through the humanity of a French drummer, who finding him on the field bleeding and senseless, bound up his wounds, and carried him to Marshal Soult, Duke of Dalmatia, who, I have understood, presented him with a medal for his conduct.

I am anxious to believe the facts were so, because such actions do honor to the country, and to the profession of the individuals who perform them, to whatever nation thev may belong. God forbid that it should be supposed by any of us, that British soldiers and sailors are alone capable of performing great and honorable actions, or that I

XIV PREFACE.

should refuse my humble offering of praise and admiration, to a humane and gallant enemy, for such actions as these.*

Of Lieut. Colonels Williams and Malcolm I shall here say but little — to do them justice would from me appear like flattery, and an attempt to do less is not in my nature. Indeed no panegyric is necessary — the General Orders and Public Dispatches of their Commanding Officers, and the especial mark of their Sovereign's approbation, in conferring upon them the Star of the Military

* ¥/~hen Sir John Moore was informed that the 50th regiment, under Majors Napier and Stanhope, had expended all their ammunition, his reply was, " The 50th have their bayonets, "' and on seeing (he admirable way in which they immediately afterwards made use of them, he exclaimed in a paroxysm of delight, " Well done the 50th — well done my Majors."

PREFACE. XV

Order of the Bath, afford ample proofs of their meritorious services.

Such was the " army of the coast," and such were the principal officers by whom it was commanded.

It is not my intention to enter into a detail of our operations in Maryland, Virginia, and Carolina, because there were no fighting matches of sufficient importance to interest the general reader. Any thing like a description of an action, since the battle of Waterloo, would be nonsense, and those who have read over and over again, the history of the 18th June, 1815, until their eyes ache, would think any thing less than 20,000 men and 20,000 horses put hors de combat, a mere bagatelle.

Now, as our whole army would scarcely, I suppose in their idea, have been more than a breakfast for

XVI PREFACE.

the Cuirasseurs, I shall merely state, that we were employed from June until the middle of September in landing, up to our necks, on the American coast, and in embarking again in the same comfortable manner. During one of these excursions, I remember well being very nearly taken prisoner, and that having as great an aversion to this as ever Mr. Shandy, senior, had to " saps, mines, blinds, gabions, palisadoes, ravelins, half moons,' and such trumpery," I contrived to escape.

By our attacks upon Norfolk, Hampton, Queenstown, Occacock, &c. &c, the American Government was obliged to keep several thousand men moving in double quick time, up and down their own coast, from the Delaware to Cape Hatteras, a distance of several hundred miles, who

PREFACE. XV 11

would otherwise have been on the frontier of Canada.

In September, as was before observed, we left the North Coast of the United States, and many will remember with considerable interest the events of the three preceding months — many will not be able to do so, from very evident causes.

After remaining a short time at Halifax, the two battalions of Marines with the Artillery, received orders to embark for Quebec, where they arrived in October, and were afterwards employed in the defence of Upper and Lower Canada until the conclusion of the war.

How they conducted themselves during this time will be best seen by the following extract from a General Order, issued by the Commander in Chief and Governor General, on the

XV111 PREFACE.

breaking up of the first battalion, for the service of the Lakes. —

" The Commander of the Forces in complying with the orders of Government, in this disposal of the battalion of Royal Marines, considers it an act of justice to that valuable and respectable corps to declare his entire approbation of the correct and steady discipline that has uniformly characterized the Royal Marines, since their arrival in Canada.

" The first battalion, under Lieut. Colonel Williams, in the exact and diligent discharge of the duties assigned to it, in the occupation of the most critical and important position on the frontier, has evinced, in a manner highly honorable to the corps, the talent and judgment of the Commander, the intelligence and vigilance

PREFACE. XIX

of the Officers, and the tried fidelity and discipline of the corps.

" The second battalion, under Lieut. Colonel Malcolm, afforded an opportunity of manifesting its gallantry, and devotion to the service, in the assault of the Fort of Oswego," &c.

By this General Order, Sir R. Williams and Major Mortimer, with the Staff of the first battalion, were directed to proceed to Halifax, to which place Sir J. Malcolm and Major Stirling, with the Staff of the second, had been previously ordered. They were all afterwards engaged in the attack upon Washington and Baltimore, as will be seen by reference to the Public Dispatches of Admiral Sir George Cockburn, and Major General Ross.

Having remained in Canada with

XX PREFACE.

the detachments of the first and second battalions, commanded by Major Dougal Stuart Dalzell, and Major George Peebles,* I had various opportunities of becoming acquainted with the two provinces ; and to the time thus passed, I now look back with an extraordinary feeling of interest.

In the hey-day of life, when our actions are actuated by the warmer and kindlier influences of our nature, many things occur which make a lasting impression upon the mind. Before the wisdom of the world has made us acquainted, and assimilated us in a lesser or greater degree,

* The first of these officers was severely wounded at the battle of Alexandria — the latter (Major George Peebles) when a Lieutenant, commanded the Marines at the storming of Fort Amsterdam in the Island of Curuaso, and for his conduct on that occasion he was promoted to the brevet rank of Captain in the Army.

PREFACE. XXI

with the tricks and chicanery of mankind, we breathe as it were in a peculiar world of our own, and it is then, that the prominent character of our nature is displayed.

When the fire of our youth becomes damped by the influence of time or early misfortune, we become mere creatures of habit, and remain so until the last hour of our existence ; but, although the fire and animation of our youth may have died away, the warmth of its early impressions and recollections still remain the same in our hearts.

" Time but the impression stronger makes, As streams their channels deeper wear."

Actuated by these feelings and sentiments, in the Autumn of last year I again embarked for Canada, intend-

XX11 PREFACE.

ing to settle with my family on the tract of land to which I am entitled by the Government regulation. A succession of bad weather in the Channel, however, occasioned our being nearly as long between Gravesend and Portsmouth as is often occupied in the whole passage to Quebec, and this, with other circumstances, obliged me to leave the ship, and give up my projected emigration until the ensuing season.

Those who have experienced similar disappointments, will readily imagine with what reluctance I gave up the hope of proceeding, after having made all my arrangements.

In order to relieve myself from the ennui occasioned by this delay, I have since occupied my time in preparing the following pages for the press.

PREFACE. XX111

Whilst in America I kept a rough note book of dates, distances, and events, &c. &c, this has enabled me to effect my object with greater facility, and I trust the Work with the Map, will be found useful to the emigrant, and not uninteresting to the general reader.

For any defects of the head which the critic may observe, I make no apology, because apology is out of the question, where the intention is to do right. For any errors of the heart no apology or excuse could make amends.

I therefore give it to the Public with all its faults, trusting, that there is nothing in it that will either disgrace my Nature, my Profession, or my Country.

ERRATA.

Page 2, line 1,for " which " read " of which*"

66, end of line 21, read " I.»"

— - 81, line f, for " western " r<?#d « N.W, or inland.'* — — 1T9, line 21, for " way " read * weigh,"

195, line 6, in motto of chap, xii, for (i force" read

"tide. ; > — — 347, line I, /or (C exlcaim "read '* exclaim. 1 "

r

Letter I

" Breathes there the man — with soul so dead, Who never to himself has said,

This is my own, my native land^ Whose heart hath ne'er within him burn'd, As home his footsteps he hath turn'd,

From wandering on a foreign strand. If such there be — go mark him well."

Nature — all-powerful Nature — reigning in the hearts, and influencing the actions of all men — makes them cling with affectionate regard to the country where they first drew the breath of life : it matters not where that country may be, whether under the torrid, or the frigid zone.

B

" I prefer/' said a French officer, on returning from foreign service, " my native fields to every other place — not because they are more beautiful, but because I was there brought up — the spot on which we past our infant days possesses a secret charm, an inexpressible enchantment — no other on the face of the earth can equal it."

Would the Indian, in his native wilds, whilst exposed to the scorching heat of a summer sun, or the cold and frosts of a North American winter, sigh with regret, that he was not across " the Great Lake," in the countries which he has heard, are rolling in luxury and ease ? Oh, no ! The parching sun, the chilling snow storms and the freezing blasts, are all alike indifferent to him. He hunts during the day with unwearied perseverance, or on the borders of a solitary stream, — patiently waits until he obtains sufficient to supply the moderate wants of nature. Contentedly ignorant, and feeling no wish, or ambition for more than his hunting grounds afford, he lays him down to rest, beneath the wide-spread canopy of Heaven, a stranger to all those inquietudes and miseries, which his more refined and civilized fellowcreatures are hourly subject to.

" We were born upon this spot, our fathers are buried here , shall we say to their bones, rise up, and go with us to a strange land ?" — Such was the observation of a Canadian Indian Chief, to one who was pressing him to leave his patrimony, and such will be the feeling of every man. But, alas ! " the race is not always for the swift, or the battle for the strong/' b2 and a variety of circumstances may occur to make men, whose hearts beat warm with affection for their country and their kindred, — abandon them for ever.

Misfortune, in various shapes, treading close upon their heels, in spite of every mental and bodily exertion, may ultimately succeed in driving them from that station, which they had endeavoured respectably to maintain. — Indeed, " when I reflect upon man ; and take a view of that dark side of him, which represents his life as open to so many causes of trouble ; when I consider how oft we eat the bread of affliction, and that we are born to it, as to the portion of our inheritance; when one runs over the catalogue of all the cross reckonings and sorrowful items with which the heart of man is overcharged ; it is wonderful by what hidden resources the mind is enabled to stand it out, and bear itself up, as it does, against the impositions laid upon our nature.*

Surely, surely then, it would be far better for him, who has struggled in vain against the tide of adversity in this country, to retire to some remote corner of the earth, where he can live dependant only upon the Almighty and himself, than to breathe a sort of second-hand existence, in the very source of painful recollections, and where he would most probably see his children growing up around him totally unprovided for.

To such a man, and to others who choose to emigrate, and who possess

* Sterne, firm and patient minds, and are of persevering and industrious habits; an emigration to either of the British Colonies in North America, presents many advantages.

He will find that the difficulties of settling in a new country, will only prove an incitement to labour, whilst the hope of future ease and enjoyment, daily more and more cherished by increased sources of happiness, will act as a stimulant to unwearied exertion. And finally, through the blessings of a beneficent Providence, on whom every thing around teaches him to look with greater veneration, his laudable efforts will be crowned with well-deserved success.

It is, however, lamentable to reflect on the delusive hopes and chimerical ideas, entertained by the far greater proportion of emigrants.

Daily observation, and their own letters sufficiently show, that of the many thousands who annually leave Great Britain and Ireland for Canada and other countries ; very few, comparatively speaking, form any thing like even a common rational idea of the country to which they are going, or of the difficulties they have to encounter.

The voyage they admit is disagreeable, and perhaps dangerous,— but what then? When they arrive at this " Land of Promise," this Land " flowing with milk and honey," they imagine they are to sit themselves down where they please, and to be fed, nobody knows how — perhaps, by the birds of the air ; who, as well as the beasts of the forest, are to be placed by nobody knows who, entirely at their disposal.

All alike, — young and old, — invalids, and those in perfect health, fancy that a change of climate and country are alone necessary to enable them to realize all those gay dreams of comfort and happiness, which they have fondly pictured to themselves.

But the man who seriously thinks of emigrating, should strictly examine his own charater, and if he has sense enough to form an opinion on the subject, and should be conscious of any feebleness of mind or body, let him give up all idea of it ; for he may rest fully assured, that unless he possesses a large capital, he never can succeed.

The incurable slave to expensive habits, would be equally unfortunate ; the simple economy necessary for such an undertaking, and the secluded life of a settler, would make him weary of his existence ; his lands would be thrown up in despair, and inevitable ruin would be the result,

It is not such as these that are wanted in an infant colony, or who can ever, with the least chance of success, hope to succeed as settlers. But time and industry must and will provide amply for the enterprizing, and those really suited for such an undertaking, — should they escape those heavy afflictions to which we are all subject in every part of the world, and which it is totally out of our power to prevent.

b 3

LETTER II. " It is a long lane that has no turning."

Old Proverb.

New South Wales, the Cape of Good Hope, the British Provinces in North America, and the United States, being the countries which have received the greatest accession of strength from emigration since the year 1815, we will pass them rapidly before us in review, and endeavour to glean some information from their peculiar advantages and disadvantages.

We will commence with New South Wales, and its sister colony

Van Diemen's Land, as the farthest removed from our personal observation. First then, the climate of this part of the world is represented as most favourable to the cultivation of the soil ; and we read, that nature has here with a liberal hand, spread abroad for the advantage and admiration of the emigrant, every blessing that can either cheer his heart, or please his imagination.

We will admit all this to be reality, and that for the agriculturalist with a large capital, who can afford to take with him from this country, such servants as he may require in his family, it presents many advantages. It should, however, be borne in mind by the generality of emigrants, that until the close of the year 1822, the Commissariat stores were almost constantly open to receive supplies at a stated price for the use of the convicts. This afforded to the settler from the first formation of the colony, to the period above-mentioned, a safe, and certain market for his cattle and corn.

The great advantages of this to him, is so evident, that it would be a useless waste of time to point them out, — it therefore only remains for me to remark, that the system of receiving supplies from persons indiscriminately is now discontinued, and that the establishments are now furnished by contract. Although the Government is benefited by this measure, the majority of the free population are left in a great degree to the mercy of the contractors, and the consequence is, — every description of produce has fallen in value at least fifteen per cent. — I do not, however, mean to say but that even subject to this depreciation — the prices pay him for his trouble.

The permission given to erect distilleries, will, it is true, cause an extraordinary consumption of grain, and the increased export trade of the Colony will afford another relief ; but these, I apprehend, cannot compensate to the generality of emigrants for the loss of a Government market, at all times open to receive their produce.

2ndly. — Instead of leaving it optional for the free settler to employ any number of convicts he may require, and be able conveniently to provide for; by a late regulation, every person receiving a grant of land from Government, is obliged to take one convict for every 100 acres, and these he is required to clothe and support. To those who have ample means at their disposal, such a regulation may not be a very serious disadvantage. They can so arrange as to keep their own domestic servants taken from this country immediately about them, and the convicts employed, improving the more distants parts of their estates. But to those, whose capital will not allow them to take working men from hence, the idea of being surrounded even in the bosom of their families, by convicts alone, must be somewhat appalling.

Besides, the mind having constantly before it the perpetrators of every kind of atrocity, must become familiarized with crime, and it is frightful to reflect on the natural influence of all this, upon the youth of both sexes.

"The employment of men convicted for forgery, as schoolmasters for the children of settlers, cannot be contemplated without apprehension, but whether from habit or necessity, I found these apprehensions had subsided even in quarters where they might have been supposed most strongly to prevail. Another and striking instance of the insensibility to the consequences of such superintendence, occurred in the enquiry that took place before the magistrates at Paramatta, into the conduct of Mr.

: upon that occasion, it appeared

that his eldest son, a youth of sixteen years of age, was allowed to be instructed by his convict clerk, in the suspicious and dangerous art of imitating the hand-writing of individuals. This fact was stated without any hesitation or regret by his father to the Magistrates, in the course of their enquiry into the authenticity of certain returns that had been copied by the son, and transmitted to Governor Macquarrie. The statement fortunately attracted the notice of Mr. Justice Field, who did not allow it to pass without a suitable rebuke.*"

From convict labour not much can be expected, and the emigrant who settles at a distance from a Government station, will find enough to do to keep such people in any kind of subjection. Although he may be willing himself to put a hand to the plough, or the flail, he cannot be in all places at once, and with such drones forced into his hive, he may ultimately see all his industrious efforts, for the good of his family, frustrated.

In such a situation he cannot leave his home to enjoy the sports of the field without great personal danger, either from the convicts or the abori-

* Commissioner Bigge's report.

gines of the country. His mind must be kept in constant anxiety for the safety of his family. During his absence, theft and murder may be committed, or revenge for imaginary injuries may destroy all his hopes of future comfort and happiness.

Even in the principal towns, no man appears to be secure, if we may judge by the report of Mr. Commissioner Bigge to Lord Bathurst. He says, when speaking of Hobart Town in Van Diemen's Land. " It is unfortunate that at this settlement, where there is abundance of stone to be procured, so few stonemasons should have been sent from Sydney, and that bricks should have been so much used in the construction of the public buildings, as well as in those of individuals. From the bad quality of those generally made at Hobart

Town, it is found necessary to secure them from the effect of sea air and moisture by plaster ; and it has been universally found that stone buildings afford a greater security against housebreakers than those built of brick. " And again, "A constable was attached to my own residence in the town of Sydney, although it had also the protection of a military sentinel towards the street ; but it was not considered safe, unless it was protected on both sides"

The annual police reports sufficiently attest the necessity of these precautions ; but, if the King's Commissioner requires a soldier, and a constable to guard him in a garrison town, the seat of Government, and where we should suppose the police to be best regulated, it may be very naturally asked, what chance has the emigrant in a distant part of the Colony, of avoiding depredation and annoyance?

Every man whose heart is not totally depraved or senseless, must in some degree participate in the misery or happiness of those around him. But how much more susceptible of these feelings must he be — who after bidding farewell to his early connections, and landing upon a distant shore, — finds himself settled for the remainder of his life, where, independent of all other difficulties, he has seldom the satisfaction of seeing any person, excepting those of his own family, on whom he can place the least confidence Desolate, indeed, must be his situation, for which no superiority of soil or climate can sufficiently compensate.

The usual charge for the passage of each person to New South Wales, or Van Diemen's Land, is 751. in the cabin, and 35/. in the steerage, half price being charged for children under fourteen years of age, and about 21. per ton freight for goods, or any considerable quantity of baggage. The Guildford, Captain Johnson, an able navigator and highly respectable man, has run from England to Cape Van Diemen in ninety days. This is, however, a voyage by no means to be calculated upon, and the emigrant may think himself fortunate if he arrives in four months, from the time the ship gets clear of the channel.

" The experience of many years has now established the safety as well as ease, with which the voyage to New South Wales may be performed. No ships have arrived in a disabled state in consequence of disasters at sea, and none have occurred in that part of the voyage where they are most to be apprehended, viz : in Bass's Straits. The principal causes of delay have arisen in cases where ships have attempted to keep too near the west coast of Africa before they have passed the Equator, or when they have arrived on the western coast of New South Wales in the months of December, January and February. In the first of these events they have generally repaired to the Island of St. Helena for a fresh supply of water ; and in the latter some inconvenience has been sustained from its exhaustion, and from the delay in making a passage through Bass's Straits against easterly winds, or in rounding the south-west Cape of Van Diemen's Land."*