Goodhue County, Minnesota, past and present

Contents

PAGE

Introduction 1-2

Chapter I

The French Occupation — Indian Trade— Two Objects — A Winter Reeort for Gentlemen — LeSueur — Charlevoix — Fort Beauharnois — High Water— Fort Rebuilt — Abandoned in 1753— Two Cannon Balls Found St. Pierre— Geo. Washinj^ton ;} J)

Chapter VII

Trials and Triumphs of Early Settlers — Jumping Claims — Cold Winter — Rev. J. G. Johnson — Itinerating — Going to Mill — Dogs Disturb — Mr. John Stowe — (Hrls Trapping the Gophers — Bachelor's Hall — Making Bread — Cooking Beans — Hans Mattson A Pioneer Wagon -Lewis Johnson -Sleeping- Quarters Carrying Eggs and Butter to Market 04 73

Chapter VIII

The Aboriotnes — Dakotas and their Language — Indian Mother's Lament— Speech of a Dakota Warrior —Indian Corn Fields — War Parties— Scalp Dance — Raw-Fish Dance — Medicine Feast — Healing the Sick — Courtship and Marriage — Modes of Burial -Spilling the Whiskey— The Wild Girl — Hawley, the Whiskey Seller 74-92

Chapter IX

DAN(iER Apprehended Chippewas Coming — Council at Fort Snelling— Spirit Lake Massacre 93-99

Chapter X

Political History- -County Organization —County Seat decided upon -First Election First Meeting of the County Commissioners-Building Court House -Political Parties — Speeches of Hon. W. W. Phelps, Chas. McClure, and C. C. (Jraham -Rev. Mr. Sorin's Speech at the Indignation Meeting 100-118

Chapter XI

Thk Half-Breed Tract Boundaries — Scrip Issued — Settlers' Rights Vindicated — Speculators Vanquished 119-124

CONTENTS.

Chapter XII

Reminiscences — Judge Wikler's Reminiscences — Practical Jokes —A. W. Pratt and the Bell Boys — Pig in the Fence Catching Fish through the Ice — Prairie Chicken Hunting— John Jordan's Narrative~"My Boy's Pictures" 125-135

Chapter XIII

The Civil War — Number Enlisted— Goodhue Volunteers— Departure for the War — Money Raised — Two Instances of Remarkable Bravery — Corinth — Gettysburg — Letters from the Seat of War — W. Colvill — Martin Maginnis — Obituary of A. E. Welch — Names of Public Servants tor the State and County 13G-1C5

Chapter XIV

Educational — First Schools and School Houses — Later Improvements of same — Parochial School — Hamline University — Collegiate Institute — Red Wing Academic and Theological Seminary — Business Colleges — Villa Maria Convent — Orphans' Home — State Reform School 166-180

Red Wing Continued— Natural Advantages — Social Organisations — Insurance — City Hospital — Beneficence — Reception of Distinguished Visitors- Sea Wing Disaster 235-248

VI CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XVIII . Towns and Villages

Belvidere 249

Belle Creek 250

Burnside 253

Cannon Falls 256

Central Point 261

Cherry Grove 266

Featherstone 268

Florence 270

Goodhue 273

Hay Creek 275

Holden 277

Kenyon 280

Leon 281

Minneola 284

Pine Island 287

Roscoe 290

Stanton 292

Vasa 294

Wacouta 304

Wanamingo 308

Warsaw 316

Welch 317

Zumbrota 319

Appendix 341

In Memoriam —

W. W. Phelps 342

P. Sandford 343

W. W. Sweney 344

C. C. Graham 346

W. W. DeKay 348

Introduction

Some one has said that pioneering tended to barbarism. This may be true in some cases. It depends upon the cliaracter of those who do tlie pioneering.

This book is mainly a history of the work of pioneers. One who has seen their work and the results of the same, ought to be able to judge of the character of the principal actors. It is now between thirty and forty years since this county was taken possession of by civilized men, and many of those most interested and active in laying the foundations of society here have passed away ; but their works do follow them. It becomes those who now enjoy the fruits of their labors to imitate their virtues and preserve the memory of their sterling deeds.

At a meeting of the Old Settlers' Association in Red Wing a few years ago, the desire was expressed by a leading member that a correct history of the early days in Goodhue county might be written. It was that expression that led me to undertake the collection of the facts and events herein recorded. I have spared neither time nor pains to make a record of all the important events that have transpired within the limits prescribed. How well I have succeeded, a generous public will determine for themselves.

I have collected, as far as possible, the history of the French occupation in its relation to this locality;

2 INTRODUCTION.

have given some account of the original inhabitants, who lived by hunting and fishing, and of missionary labors among them ; and chiefly the events connected with the settlement of white people ; and the subsequent growth and prosperity of the county. I have related, to some extent, the trials and triumphs incident to pioneer life by facts which have been given me by those who experienced such trials and afterwards enjoyed the triumphs. I have taken extracts from the county records to give a brief mention of our political aflPairs, and the men who have labored in the public service from time to time ; also the part borne by our citizens in the late civil war — some reminiscences of self-denial and personal sacrifices for the preservation of the Union. The establishment of institutions of learning and religion ; reformatory and charitable enterprises ; advancements in agriculture, manufacturing and trade which have been made, have also a place in this record.

The work of the local historian, seemingly unimportant, is of great value to the writers of general history, who must necessarily write of events which transpired during a former generation, of which they have no personal knowledge.

To the ohl settlers who have so kindly assisted me by information of their personal experiences, and to all who have encouraged the publication of this work by their patronage, I hereby express my sincere thanks.

J. W. Hancock.

Chapter I. The Fuench Occupation

It is well known that the first white men who visited the northwestern portion of the United States were from France. That nation was the first to plant colonies in Canada along the river St. Lawrence, and they gradually pushed their explorations beyond the great lakes, to the head waters of the Mississippi.

Trading with the native Indians for furs became a very lucrative business in the history of the French occupation. The traders furnished fire-arms, powder and lead to the natives in exchange for peltries. Being accustomed to live by hunting and fishing these Indians soon learned to use such articles as required less labor to obtain the necessaries of life, giving them more time for their favorite pursuit of war than when confined to the use of the bow and arrow. It was natural enough that they welcomed the traders to their country ; for besides the implements they brought for use in hunting and carrying on war with other tribes successfully, the traders furnished them with rum and tobacco, which are considered great luxuries by savage men in all climes.

Trading posts were early established at suitable points throughout this fur-producing region. Though built of logs and roofed with sod and wild grass, there was a space of ground around these log-cabins inclosed with pickets. These posts have been named forts, and were sometimes called factories, for the reason that when fully manned, soldiers and the agents or factors of some mercantile house were quartered therein, and in some cases missionaries, each class having separate cabins within the enclosure. An army officer was placed in authority over all.

There were three distinct objects evidently in view in establishing these posts, namely: To extend the dominion of France, to gain by trade, and to convert the natives.

Two such posts were once occupied within the present limits of Goodhue county. The history of one of them, so far as I am able to find, is very short. It was built on the largest island between Lake Pepin and the mouth of the St. Croix river by LeSueur in 1695; therefore, Prairie Island was the site. Charlevoix relates that the object of the establishment of this post was to interpose a barrier between the Dakotas and Chippewas, and maintain peaceful relations between them which had then been created. He speaks of the island as "having a beautiful prairie," and that "the French of Canada have made it a centre of commerce for the western parts. Many pass the winter here because it is a good country for hunting." From this account I conclude that men who were well-to-do were accustomed to spend their winter vacations in this region.

The above named Charlevoix visited this region in

HISTORY OF GOODHUE COUNTY. O

1721 under the auspices of the Government of France, and upon his return to Europe urged the establishment of a trading post, and sending two missionaries among the tribe of Indians which he called "Sioux." The arguments he used for the establishment of such a post were : The missionaries to learn the language of the Indians and teach them religion ; and that through the country then occupied by this tribe a route to the Pacific Ocean could be discovered. His suggestions were favorably considered, but some delay ensued in carrying out the project on account of the hostility of other tribes occupying the country between the great lakes and the Mississippi valley. In 1726 a treaty with these latter tribes was consummated, and traders allowed to pass unmolested to the country of the Sioux. A company was soon formed for trading and other purposes among them. Rene Boucher was the commandant of this company. Louis Ignatius Guignas and De Gonor were the chaplains or missionaries. They left Montreal on the 16th of June, 1727, and reached the enlargement of the Mississippi, the picturesque Lake Pepin, the 17th of September. The name of Pepin is first given to this lake in the journal of LeSueur in the year 1700, and was probably given in compliment to Stephen Pepin who Avas with LeSueur on the shores of Lake Superior as early as 1679. Immediately after arriving at this lake, Boucher selected a site upon a low point about the middle of the southwestern shore, nearly opposite the bold bluff now known as Maiden Rock. Here he ordered the erection of a stockade of pickets forming a square of one hundred feet with two bastions. The pickets were twelve feet long. Within the enclosure were a log bouse for the commandant, b, residence for the two missionaries, and a store house, all of which were completed by the last of October. The fort was named Bcaiiharnois, in compliment to the then governor of Canada. In a letter from this new fort. Father Guignas thus writes : " In the evening of November 14 we celebrated by shooting off some very beautiful rockets and made the air resound with a hundred shouts of 'Vive le Eoy,' and 'Vive Charles de Beauharnois.' That which contributed a great deal to the merriment was the fright of the Indians who witnessed the scene. When these poor people saw the fire-works in the air like stars falling from the sky, the women and children fled, and the more courageous of the men cried for mercy, begging earnestly that we would stop the astonishing play of the terrible fire-works (medicine)."

The following spring, in the month of April, the water rose so high in the lake that the fort had to be abandoned for several weeks. In dispatches sent to France in October, 1729, by the Canadian Government, the following reference is made to Fort Beauharnois. They rex)ort that the fort built among the Sioux, on the border of Lake Pepin, is badly situated on account of freshets, but the Indians assure that the water rose higher than ever before in the spring of 1728 ; and this is credible, inasmuch as it did not so much as reach the fort this year. We learn from the records that this fort was rebuilt on higher ground, in rear of the first site, about the year 1735 with increased dimensions, but was soon after abandoned, as it is recorded that in view of the hostility of the Indians, the commandant and his second concluded with Father Giiignas to burn the fort and descend the Mississippi which they did May 13,

1737. But it was again rebuilt ten years later. The records show that the Sioux Indians, through their deputies, entreated the governor of Canada to re-establish the post in the year 1747, which was accordingly done. The name of the last commandant of this post was St. Pierre who remained here till the summer of 1753 and was then called to the command of Fort Duquesne, a French post in western Pennsylvania.

There is no account of the fort on Lake Pepin being occupied after it was abandoned by St. Pierre one hundred and thirty-eight years ago! It is no matter of wonder that it is now difficult to find the exact spot where it stood. Quite recently two cannon balls have been found in plowing, one of six and the other of four pound caliber, near Frontenac station, which have been deposited with the Minnesota Historical Society. These balls furnish additional interest to the history of the old fort. They were undoubtedly found by the Indians soon after the fort was abandoned, and buried as worthless to them.

There are a few facts relating to St. Pierre after he left this post, which will doubtless be interesting to the people of this county. It appears that he went directly to Montreal, arriving there in October, 1753, and on the third of November following, the Marquis Duquesne wrote to the minister of war in France that he had sent the Sieur de St. Pierre to succeed Marin in command of the army of the Ohio.

St. Pierre did not reach the stockade at French Creek, which was afterward called Fort Duquesne, till the first week in December, and only seven days after his arrival there, young George Washington came, bearing a letter from Governor Dinwiddle, of Virginia, to the commander of the fort. After courteous treatment by St. Pierre for several clays, Washington was sent back with the following note to Governor Dinwiddle :

Sir: — I have the honor to be here the commander-in-chief. M. Washington delivered to me the letter which you wrote to the commander of the French troops. I should have been pleased had you given him the order, or that he had been disposed to go to Canada to see our General, to whom it better belongs than to me to set forth the evidence of the incontestable rights of the King, my Master, to the lands along the Ohio; and to refute the pretentions of the King of Great Britain thereto. I shall transmit your letter to M. the Marquis Duquesne. His reply will be law to me, and if he shall order me to communicate with you, you may be assured that I shall not fail to act promptly.

As to the summons you send me to retire, I do not think I am obliged to obey. Whatever may be your instructions, I am here by order of my general, and I beg you not to doubt for a moment but that I am determined to conform with the exactness and resolution which becomes a good officer. I do not know that in the progress of this campaign anything has passed which can be regarded an act of hostility or contrary to the treaties between the two crowns, the continuation of which pleases us much as it does the English. If you had been pleased to enter into particulars as to the facts which caused your complaint, I should have been honored to give you as full and satisfactory reply as possible. I have made it a duty to receive M, Washington with distinction on account of your dignity and his personal worth.

I have the honor to be. Monsieur, your very humble and very obedient servant,

L. DE St. Pierre.

At the Fort, December 15. 1753.

In the history of the French and Indian war, after Braddock's defeat, we learn that this same St. Pierre was fatally wounded in a battle near Lake George, Tvhile leading the Indian allies of the French army,

His last words Avere: "Fight on, boys; this is Johnson, not Bvaddock."

From this circumstance we learn that the last commandant of the French fort on Lake Pepin had the privilege of meeting George Washington a second time, while the latter served under General Braddock in his unsuccessful expedition against Fort Daquesne.

CHAPTER 11.

EARLIEST COUNTY HISTORY.

Goodhue county was named in honor of James M. Goodhue, the pioneer editor and printer of the State. Minnesota was organized by act of Congress, as a Territory of the United States, March 8, 184'.). Nine days from that date Mr. Goodhue had arrived in St. Paul with press, type, etc., ready to commence the publication of a weekly newspaper. This paper was called The Minnesoia Pioneer, which he edited with marked ability until his early death in 1852.

Dr. E. D. Neill, iu his History of Minnesota, thus describes the pioneer editor: "The editor of the Pioneer was unlike other men. Every action and every line he wrote marked great individuality. He could imitate no man iu his manners, nor in his style; neither could any man imitate him. Attempts were sometimes made but the failure was always very great. Impetuous as the whirlwind, with perceptive powers that gave to his mind the eye of a lynx; with a vivid imagination that made the very stones of Minnesota speak her praise; with an intellect as vigorous and elastic as a Damascus blade, he penned editorials which the people of this territory can never blot out from memory."

The territorial legislature did well in a few years after his death to connect his name with one of the new counties.

This county lies along the west side of tlie Mississippi river the distance of about thirty miles, which includes half the southwest border of Lake Pepin, and from Wabasha county on the south to Dakota county on the north. It is bounded on the east and south by the Mississippi river, Wabasha, Olmsted and Dodge counties; on the w-est, by Rice county and a part of Dakota county; on the north, by Dakota county.

The surface is chiefly rolling prairie, but is divided by streams and lowlands which furnish excellent drainage and abundance of pure water.

The principal streams of water are: The Mississippi river, the Cannon river, and the north and middle branches of the Zumbro river. The smaller streams lying w^holly within the county are: Prairie creek, Little Cannon river. Belle creek. Spring creek, Hay creek and Wells creek. The water power on all the last named streams has been utilized to a greater or less extent for mills.

Lake Pepin is a wide and deep section of the Mississippi ; there is no other lake in the county. Numerous springs abound in all parts, furnishing constant supply of water for the use of the people and to till the streams.

With the exception of a few drifts of sand in the northern part of the county, the soil is of the very best quality for purposes of agriculture. All, kinds of grain and vegetables adapted to this latitude are easily grown in abundance. For many years in the early history of this state, Goodhue was the banner county in the production of wheat. The raising of this cereal for some fifteen years after the settlement, was the chief end and aim of the farmer. Other crops were raised but only as was sufficient for home coDSumption. Wheat was the only product which would bring in money. From thirty to forty bushels per acre of the best quality was then a common yield. In the year 1873 the wheat buyers of Red Wing made the statement that they had paid out for wheat in the aggregate the sum of two million dollars. During the same year much wheat grown in the county had been sold in Cannon Falls, L^ke City and Hastings. The whole crop raised within the county that year could not have been less than three million bushels. From that year the chinch-bug began its depredations. Two other causes tended to diminish the amount of wheat raised about the same time, the price of wheat falling and the amount that could be raised per acre on the same land, decreasing. The wheat producing elements of the soil were becoming slowly exhausted, and a change of crops or the use of fertilizers was found to be a necessity. Diversified farming has since taken the place of wheat raising alone.

The raising of beef, mutton and pork for market; the improvement of stock of all kinds; and dairy farming, are now claiming the attention of farmers generally throughout the county. The past two years have proved that wheat can be still produced here of a superior quality in the absence of the chinch-bugs.

Timber for building purposes was not plenty at the first settlement, being found only in small groves and along the banks of the larger streams of water. Consequently, the lands first claimed were along the borders of those wooded streams. Among the forest trees more abundant were the red, black and burr oaks, white birch, maple, elm, poplar, box elder and ash. There were a few groves of white pine, and also black walnut and

HISTORY OF GOODHUE COUNTY.

IS butternut trees on the Cannon and Zumbro rivers, but the demand for building materials was so great when the white settlers first came that all these finest of trees were soon removed. Since that time lumber for building and manufacturing purposes has been obtained from the northern part of the state, and from Wisconsin. Where groves of maple, poplar and box elder have been planted for a few years on prairie farms they afford great protection for stock during the cold storms of winter, and valuable shade for protection from the heat of summer. These groves now surround the buildings of nearly all the farms in this county; many are now so large as to furnish the wood for the family use. Where twenty or thirty years ago there was nothing but prairie grass, may now be seen fine houses and barns surrounded by beautiful groves. Since annual prairie fires have ceased, natural groves have sprung up in uncultivated portions to such extent that timber for fencing and firewood is more plenty than formerly.

Fruit as well as forest trees are easily grown. Apple orchards seem to decay after bearing abundant fruit a few years. This is thought to be owing to the rapid growth of the trees. Crab-apples, plums, grapes, gooseberries, strawberries and blackberries are indigenous, and by the aid of proper cultivation all these fruits are produced in abundance.

There were settlements begun here in several places before the county was organized. Very soon after the Indian title had been extinguished by treaty in 1852, settlers began to come and mark off their claims. Townsites were selected along the Mississippi at all points where it was supposed steamboats could conveniently make a landing.

HISTORY OF GOODHUE COUNTY.

James Wells, an Indian trader, had been living for several years on the shore of Lake Pepin. At the head of the same lake, George W. Bullard, another Indian trader, had established himself for t)ie ostensible purpose of dealing with the Indians as early as 1850. Mr. Wells sold his improvements and left with the removal of the Indians.

Mr. Bullard remained and laid out a town around his trading post, naming it Wacouta. The charming summer retreat at the head of the lake now occupies the same locality, and bears the same name.

The only Indian village witliin the limits of what is now Goodhue county, was Red Wing's village, the site now occupied by the city of Red Wing. Several families came and began work, anticipating a future town at this place, in the autumn of 1852. The first towns laid out along the river were Red AVing, Wacouta and Central Point.

The Dakota Indians had for some time occupied the southern part of the now State of Minnesota, when the whites began to settle here. This tribe are often called Sioux, a name given them by their first traders, the French. The northern portion of the state had been claimed by the Chipi)e\va tribe. These tribes were deadly enemies to each other. For a long series of years, their numbers had doubtless diminished rather than otherwise, on account of the frequent raids made by war parties into each others' dominions. So abundant were fish and all kinds of game found in the country, that this people indulged in war as a pastime. In the whole tract of land now called Goodhue county, there was only one village of Dakotas, and the population of this village was about three hundred. Such small villages, from forty to fifty miles apart, left large room for wild animals, and afforded ample sustenance to the few inhabitants, who lived chiefly by hunting and fishing.

But there are evidences that these savage tribes had been preceded by a more peaceful people. A dense population had once occupied this part of the county; perhaps up to the first landing of Columbus, or a few years later. The numerous earthworks and mounds which were found here furnish these evidences. As the farmer's plow has nearly obliterated these mounds and other marks of human tribes now passed away, a description of some, which were found in this county, will be given.

These earthworks were quite numerous in the vicinity of Red Wing's village, but the Dakotas professed they knew nothing of their origin. When we came in 1849 there were several mounds enclosed in the Indian cornfield, and the plat where West End Driving Park now is was pretty generally covered with them.

Dr. W. W. Sweney, who came in 1852, made some investigations of these artificial remains, the results of which are substantially as follows:

Evidences of the occupation of the country by a race of people, whose habits in some respects differed from the Dakotas, were numerous. On the sharp hill points in the vicinity of the Cannon river and Spring creek, were a number of cairns or stone mounds. These were on the highest points where shell rock outcropped and always overlooked the lower plateaus or valleys, on which were situated large groups of earthen tumuli. The cairns were of various sizes, ranging from six to twelve feet in diameter at the base. Their shape was conical, and some of those in the best state of preserva-

HISTORY OF GOODHUE COUNTY.

tion had an elevation of from eight to ten feet. The base was on the bare rock and all the loose stones in the vicinity had evidently been gathered to complete the structure. The first layer was in the form of a circle, and by inlapping towards the centre in every succeeding layer an apex was finally reached. A majority of these structures had fallen in, leaving a circle of rude masonry from three to four feet high, while the remains of the upper portion laid in a mass inside the wall, showing very conclusively they had been built hollow. Being very desirous of ascertaining the purpose for which they had been built, I selected two uf the most perfect for a minute examination. The larger cairn was at least twelve feet in diameter and nine feet high. It had settled considerably, pressing upon the cavity. After an hour's hard work we were in a situation to observe the condition of its foundatiou. A few handfuls of black mould scattered over the bare rock base, a fragment of bone, three inches long, a muscle shell nearly in powder, and two remnants of wood distant from each other about six feet, in the east and west direction of the cairn, was all it contained. Of the bone there was hardly enough left to determine conclusively as to the species of animal to which it belonged; but I think it was a portion of the upper armbone of an adult human being. When found, the wooden fragments were standing upright as stakes supported by rock and were dryrotted to points. AVith a knife I cut ofp all the decayed wood, the centre being a mere splinter, but enough to distinguish it to be swamp, or blue oak.

The other mound did not yield the same amount of discoveries; a little mould and traces of what were supposed to be decayed bones or shells was all that repaid our labor. I searched very thoroughly for teeth, as my opinion was and is that these cairns were burial places, but no teeth were to be found. I think these cairns were the burial places of distinguished personages. The material of which they were composed secured them against the depredations of wild animals. Their numbi^r, however, would lead to the conclusion that it was not the common mode of sepulture. The groups of earth mounds overlooked by these cairns were counted by liundreds, and I think were once human habitations, and if my conjectures are in the right direction, these isolated cemeteries could not alone contain the mortuary remains of as numei'ous a people as the evidences then to be observed indicated. These rock structures were found nowhere else in this county but on those blufPs between Hay creek and Cannon river, overlooking the valley of the Mississippi. And nowhere else in our state have 1 seen remains of a similar character. On breaking up the laud where the earth mounds existed, large quantities of broken pottery and muscle shells were found. The fragments of pottery appeared to be a combination of tenacious clay and pulverized shells. It had a thickness of about one-fourth of an inch, and on the outside were rudely delineated figares of men, animals, foliage and other objects. The representation of a weapon of war or the chase was not to be found; which would have been different had the habits of the makers been similar to those of the modern Dakotas. This earthenware appeared to have been sun dried as there was no trace of the action of heat to redden the clay. In digging into several of these hillocks I have invariably found in the centre of the base charcoal and earth reddened by the l8 HISTORY OF GOODHUE COUNTY.