Three years in the Pacific; including notices of Brazil, Chile, Bolivia, and Peru

Front matter

THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC.

THREE YEARS

THE PACIFIC;

Chapter I

Arrival at Valparaiso — Bay — Appearance of the place — Landing — Town — Market — Scenes in the street — Costume — Oracidn — Plaza — Cries — Beggars, -- 8t

CHAPTER n.

Society — Introduction to a Family — Costume — Furniture — Mate — Singing — Cigars — Presenting of Flowers — Leave-taking — Traits of Character — A day visit — Anecdote — Tertulia on a Sunday evening — Dancing — «« El cuindo"—" La Perdi'z"— Foreign Society, ... 92

CHAPTER HL

Ride to Santiago — Mode of Travelling — Peonada — The honey palm — Carretas — Mode of descending hills — Penuelas — Throwing the lazo — A bivouac — Casablanca — Posada — Mode of making butter — Bread — Cuesta de Zapata — Bustamente — Breakfast — Cuesta del Prado — A view — Entrance to Santiago — Custom house officers — Table of Barometric observations, .-.- 107

CHAPTER IV.

Fonda Ingldsa and inmates — ^Fonda del Comercio and Fonda de la Nacion — Site of Santiago — Description of the city — Its founding — Plaza — Shops — Book stores — Dead bodies exposed before the prison early in the morning — Siesta — Shopping at night — Ladies — Costume, - 125

CHAPTER V.

Tajamar — Military Academy — Militia System — San Liines — Alameda — An evening visit — Card playing — National Institute — Schools — Sociedad Filarm6nica — Otavario — Procession — Praying for rain— State of medicine and pharmacy, .- 133

CHAPTER VI.

Visit CoHna — Law of primogeniture — A senator — A family dinner — Face of the country — Ploughing — Sowing — Baths — Friar of San Felipe — Don Jose — Return to Valparaiso — Storm on the road, - . . 143

CHAPTER Vn.

Goquimbo bay — La Serena — Salute — Balsas — The Port — Commerce — Condors— The City — Distress by drought — Society — Trade, - 152

CONTENTS. M

NOTICES OF BOLIVIA.

CHAPTER I.

Bay of Mexillones — Cobija — Soil — Landing- — Balsa — Town — Old trees — Scarcity of water — Commerce — Visit to Uie copper mines — Catica, 163

CHAPTER II. Historical sketch of Bolivia — Its productions — Coca, ... 174

CHAPTER L

Callao Bay — Island of San Lorenzo — Entering Callao — Castles— Ancient defence of Callao — Town of Callao — Market — Water — The Mole — Remains of " Old Callao," - 181

CHAPTER n.

Ride to Lima — The Road — Monument — Bellavista — Treasure — Church of Palms — Market women — Tambo de la Legua — Church — Negroes dancing — Mules and asses — Alameda de la Portada — Meet a pleasure party — Lima gate — ^^Entrance to the city — Animas — First'view of "the street of Callao," 190

CHAPTER in.

History of the founding of Lima, - 200

Chapter IV

Topography and climate of Lima — Plan and divisions of the city — ^Walls — Distribution of property — Population— Religious communities, 203

Chapter V

Plaza — Portales — Palace — Cathedral — Archbishop's palace — Fountains — The Plaza by day, and by night — Segarr^ros — Pic4ntes — Barquillos —Ice, 212

CHAPTER VL Saya y Manto — Scenes in the street — Police — Market — Cherimoya — Palta— Granadilla— Caf^s, 220

CHAPTER \Il.

Convent of St. Augustin — Monastery of La Incarnacion — Convent of Santo Domingo — Negros Bozales — Convent of San Francisco — Our Lady of Mercies — San Pedro — Library — Churches — Bells — Inquisition — Museum — ^University of St. Mark — Hall of Deputies — Charities — Hospitals, 229 1* r CONTENTS.

CHAPTER VUI.

The Cathedral — The Sagrario — Oracion — The B6veda — Death of Pizarro — His interment, 247

CHAPTER IX.

Morning visits — A family — Conversation — Difficult for foreigners to enter - society — Female education — Ignorance of Geography — Provincialisms — A tertiilia — Monte al dao — Use of Tobacco — Morale of Lima society — Habits of the ladies — A good trait in the Lima character— Gambling, 262

CHAPTER X.

Sunday in Lima — Books — Mach^ro — Misturas — Puchero deplores — Street of peril — Scene on the Alameda — Cock-pit — Theatre, ... 275

CHAPTER XL Bull-bait— Plaza del Acho, 283

CHAPTER XH.

Nacimi^ntos — Christmas Eve — Christmas — Ride to Chorillos— Salteadores — Bathing — Harbor of Chorillos — Callao — La Presidenta — Carnival — Miraflores — Magdalena, ........ 293

CHAPTER Xm.

St. John's day — Amancaes, ..--.--- 300

CHAPTER XIV.

Dia de Santa Rosa — Birth-day customs — Life of Santa Rosa, - - 305

CHAPTER XV.

Day of All Saints — Pantheon — Responses — Mode of burial — Obsequies — Collecting alms for masses — Day after All Saints — Funeral expenses— A patriotic curate — Rapacity of curates — Cofradia or burying company — Marriage ceremony — Marriage fees — Difficult for foreigners to marry in Peru — Clandestine marriage, --..--- 312

CHAPTER XVL

Influence of priests over society — Perpetual light — Priests rule familieg— Confession — Penances — Money paid for expiation of sin — Nov^nas — Superstition — Preaching — Bulas de Cruzada — Character of the clergy — Notions about religious toleration — Supremacy of the Pope — " Cartas Peruanas," 321

CHAPTER XVn.

Arica — Appearance from the Anchorage — Mole — Advertisements — Streets — School — Water and provisions — Ancient Cemetery — Founding of Arica — Population — Products — Commerce — Guano, - - 338

CONTENTS. XI

CHAPTER XVin.

Islay — Landing place — Town — Arequipanian ladies — Post-office regulation — ^Notions of the captain of the port about politics, - - 345

CHAPTER XIX.

Pisco, from the anchorage — Landing — Ancient Pisco — Town — A ride — Salinas — Commerce — Captain of the Port, - . . . . 353

CHAPTER XX.

Guarraey — ^Ferrol — Samanco — ^Nepena, 358

CHAPTER XXI.

Santa^ — Bathing — A prison scene — An execution, .... 369

CHAPTER XXn.

Huanchaco — Balsas — Landing — Port — Road to Trusillo — The Grand Chimu, and his war with the Incas — City of Truxillo — "El Quipos del Chimu" — A nunnery and a nun — ^Pacasmayo — Spinning — Ride to San Pedro — A Governor — A Colonel — Hospitable reception, - - 379

CHAPTER XXIII.

Lambayeque Roads — Derivation of the name of the Pacific — Landing — San Jos^ — Balsa — Ride to Lambayeque — Plaza — The Capiis, a dress worn previous to the Conquest — A curious currency — The Church — A morning visit — Chicharias — Huacas— Chicha — Gourds — Indians- Town — Products — Visit Chlclayo — Factoria de Tobacos — Soap making — Tanning — Palm Sunday — Return to Lambayeque — Passion week — Scenes at the Chichan'a and Billiard room — Mode of embarking, 388

CHAPTER XXIV.

Paita— Bay — Town — Piura— Whalers — A fish story, - - - 414

CHAPTER XXV.

Geography of Peru — Repartimientos — Mita System — General La Mar — General Gamarra, - 417

CHAPTER XXVL Valedictory to the south-west coast of America, and return home, - 435

ADVERTISEMENT.

The following pages are the result of observations made during two cruises in the Pacific Ocean, one of more than three years, on board of the U. S. S. Brandywine, from August 1826, to October 1S29, and the last on board of the U. S. S. Falmouth, from June 1831, to February 1834, and recorded with a hope of making my countrymen better acquainted with some of the peculiarities of their southern neighbors.

As far as the nature of the work would permit, the author has avoided obtruding himself upon the attention of the reader, and has indulged in but few reflections ; being content to present naked facts, and allow each one to dress them for himself, and draw his own conclusions. The merits of the performance, with its many imperfections, remain to be decided by the public, from whom is claimed all the indulgence usually accorded to novices in undertakings of the kind.

0^ The word " huaca," which occurs several times in the "Notices of Peru," is pronounced as if it were written waca. The words in Spanish, which begin with hua and Jua, are pronounced as if written with W ; thus, Huanchaco is pronounced Wanchaco; Juanita, Wanita, &c.

THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC.

INTRODUCTION.

Introductory — Getting under way — Getting to Sea.

Sea-gqing people, and particularly sailoi*s, for there is a distinction to be made between them, derive a pleasure from looking at a vessel, which landsmen cannot comprehend. Next to woman, nothing can fix the admiring gaze of a thorough bred seaman, so soon as a ship. When he views her from the shore, sitting buoyantly on the water, his eye roves quickly over her side from stem to stern, and carefully notes her proportions, her paint, the line of her ports and guns, with bright tompions reflecting the sun*s rays, her shear, and model generally. The next look is aloft. There he scans the nice proportion and symmetry of her spars ; if the examination be satisfactory, he pronounces her "a splendid model — clean run and neat aloft,'' mentally deciding that she sits on the water like a duck, and must be a good sea-boat. If he is to become an inmate on board, from that moment he feels a growing affection for hei*, and will not hear her faults mentioned without attempting a defence. He speaks her praises with delight, and takes as much pleasure in her decoration, as a city belle possibly can in that of her own person ; — his ship occupies a place in his mind, only second to that of his wife or sweetheart.

Without possessing the discriminating eye of a tar, I enjoy, in a high degree, the sight of a fine ship at her moorings, and

when I first looked upon the F , I felt a "yearning towards" her. Yet this is not that warm, adoring sort of love, inspired by woman, but rather such attachment as we feel for

a favorite dog or horse. Though the F be not a perfect

specimen of naval architecture, she is looked on favorably by those, ''trained to command and range the various sail," and her accommodations, both for officers and men, will bear comparison with those of any sloop-of-war in the service.

Having prepared every thing for my voyage, in June, 1831, I found myself on board, waiting only for a favorable wind. I had parted from my friends. Recollection is still fresh with the conflict between the anticipation of new scenes and the regret of separation, the resolution to part without a sigh, the benedictions of parting friends, the gazing after one, the maternal blessing and last advice, breathed in tones of affection. The words of a mother at such a time are like a warning voice from Heaven, and like that voice, too frequently disregarded ; — one's feelings almost bubble up at the thought, in spite of all that philosophy may teach !

" It is a bitter trial to forsake, E'en for a season, in this changeful world. The things we cherish !"

One morning, while looking over the beautiful bay, and gazing on the fair city of New York, that seemed to rise out of the bosom of the waters, the boatswain shouted, in the deep, gruff tone, peculiar to those of his office, " all hands, up anchor ahoy !"

The first lieutenant, the moving spring of the active and ready crew, stood upon the poop, trumpet in hand. The officers were called to their respective stations ; the capstan bars placed and manned ; the messenger passed. Silence reigned " fore and aft." The '' first" applied the trumpet to his mouth, and in an under tone, gave the order, ''heave round."

The "lads" stepped away to the music of the merry fife, and with light hearts, timed " Off she goes" till the anchor was apeak.

" High enough," cried the second lieutenant, who was stationed on the forecastle.

INTRODUCTION. 11

*' Pall the capstan — unship the bars — lay aloft top-men — lower-yard-men in the rigging," were the successive orders, and at once, the masts appeared like living pyramids of nimbly moving seamen.

" Aloft lower-yard-men," and they followed to their stations. "Close in, you Sirs, close in." The men were now seen in the tops, under them, and near the yards, ready to spring forward at the next word, which they seemed eager to anticipate, for it was necessary to repeat the admonition, "to keep close in," to prevent them from immediately gaining the ends of the various yards. The orders were now given in the full tone of command.

" Trice up — lay out — loose away." In a second, the studding sail booms rose ; the sail-loosers were hanging over the yards, untying the cords v^ich secured the sails in their positions, and the next moment all was still — not a finger moved.

*' Stand by- — are you ready there fore and aft ?" " All ready, Sir," replied a midshipman from each of the tops.

" Let fall — sheet home and hoist away the topsails — cheerly with the main, cheerly." At the word, all the canvass, which heretofore had been concealed by being neatly folded on the yards, fell at the same instant into beautiful festoons, and the men briskly descended to the deck. The next moment the topsails were hoisting, and the fifes playing " The girls we left behind us," as the crew marched along the deck with the haulyards, keeping time to the music.

"Tramp the deck boys, tramp the deck," cried the second lieutenant in an encouraging tone, and the time was marked louder than ever.

"High enough with the mizen — belay the mizen topsail haulyards," cried the fifth lieutenant. "Belay the mizen topsail haulyards," echoed a midshipman in a youthful key, and the boatswain's mate piped, belay !

"Belay the fore-topsail haulyards — high enough with the main — belay the main topsail haulyards," succeeded pretty rapidly, attended by the same echoing and piping as before.

Again the capstan bars were placed, or rather "shipped,"

and the order given to " heave round." The next moment, the *' second" cried, "high enough."

" Pall the capstan — unship the bars — forward to the ^ cat' — move, lads, move — " replied the '^ first" in the full tone of a manly voice, unaided by his trumpet. A few seconds only passed, and the anchor rested on the bows.

"Man the jib haulyards."

*' All manned. Sir," replied the "second.'^

"Haul taught — hoist away the jib — starboard your helm, quarter-master — jump to the braces — starboard fore braces — larboard main braces — starboard cro' jack braces, haul in — ." The execution of these orders, almost as fast as given, brought the fore-topsail aback against the mast, while the " after" yards were full ; and aided by the jib, her head "paid round," and looked down the stream. Now, ftie yards were trimmed to the wind, and the ship moved gently on her way.

The wind drew kindly aft. Sail after sail was spread, and studding-sails were set, "low and aloft ;" thus, under a cloud of canvass, and with a fine breeze, the ship swept away with the ease and grace of a sea bird.

Silence took place of the bustle consequent upon getting under way. The sea-officers still remained at their stations, while the idlers* were on the poop, admiring the scenes we were passing on either hand, or conversing with those few friends, who, determined to see the last of us, accompanied us down to return in the pilot boat. It is soothing, in after years, to call to mind those who thus speed us with still another look — another grasp ; — to what hopes, and fears, and regrets, does the word farewell give rise !

The men were standing about the decks, ready to seize a rope when ordered. The pilot stood upon a gun, attentive to the song of the leadsman in the chains, as he cried, "by the deep nine," and narrowly watching the progress of the ship. His words were few, and directed to the quarter master at the

* Idler is the epithet applied to all officers on board of a man-of-war, who do not keep a regular watch ; such are the surgeon, purser, sailing master, &c.

INTHODTJCTION. 13

wheel, who answered his orders with precision. "Port," said the pilot. "Port, Sir," — replied the quarter master.

^' Steady," said the pilot.

" Steady, Sir," repeated the quarter master.

When we arrived at the Narrows, our prospects of getting to sea that day were blasted ; the wind suddenly changed, and we were obliged to bring the ship to anchor.

After spending several days at Staten Island, the wind blew fair. Soon the anchor arose from its bed ; the sails were again spread, and swelled into beautiful curves, that harmonized with the straight lines of our spars and rigging ; we moved over the placid surface of the bay — the leadsman's song ceased — our bows nodded recognition to the crested wave of the ocean — the pilot boarded his little vessel, bearing our last farewell, and we stood on our course tbwards where the waters and skies seemed to meet. The day was in its splendor, but lighted nothing to us save the expanse of the sea. Night came, and the moon looked over the mighty scene, and her light danced over the waves. The stars shone brightly and calmly ; the breeze blew mildly. Thus, day succeeds day, and the sameness of ship's duty is only relieved by occasionally meeting a sail as lonely as ourselves.

There are times, however, when the dark clouds hang upon the horizon — the waters darken, and heaving themselves sullenly, often to a fearful height, burst into foam — the scud flies over the heavens — ^^lightning flashes — thunder rolls, and the storm howls furiously across the waste ! The ship, then stripped of her canvass, rises and plunges to the impulse of the waves, and the wind moans sadly through the shrouds. Then does man, indeed, in his majesty of mind, appear warring with the elements, and bidding defiance to their force. The noble bark seems to spurn the angry buffetings of the deep, and glides triumphantly over the heaving billows. Well tempered enthusiasm swells the bosom of the skilful director of this wonderful machine. He scans the heavens and the wild waste ; his voice rises above the tempest, and his orders are executed, by those whom he guides, as fearlessly as they are given.

Then follow, the abatement of the winds, the smoothing of the sea, the clearing of the sky, and the reappearance of the sun. Next comes the calm, with its never failing attendant, ennui ; the ship rolls over a still restless sea, the sails flap against the mast, every place en board is uncomfortable, and every place cheerless — at length, p. gentle breeze, first seen at a distance, comes skipping and kissing along the surface, throwing it into fields of ripple. The sails feel its influence, and again we move on our course, with spirits as buoyant as our *^sea-girt" home !

NOTICES OF BRAZIL.

NOTICES OF BRAZIL.

Chapter I

Entrance to Rio de Janeiro — The Sugar Loaf— Glance round the harbor — The Corcovado — Gloria Church — The City — Praya Grande.

On the last Sunday in August 1831, we descried through a hazy atmosphere, the <' Cabo do Frio," while yet thirty miles off. Five years before 1 beheld this lump of Brazilian earth with as much interest as if it were a mass of topaz or diamonds ; then, every moment seemed an hour, and every spot that presented itself as we drew near, became of importance. Even the sand beach, sweeping towards the capital of this empire, fancy assured me, led to something, but that something was indefinite, and is so still. The same feeling seemed to pervade all those, who looked now on a strange shore, for the first time ; — every countenance beamed with joy, and all were pleasurably excited.

Cape Frio, a high, wild, barren insular promontory, stands at the extremity of Maranbaya beach, sixty-eight miles to the eastward of Rio de Janeiro, having a passage for coasting vessels between it and the main. The land may be seen from a great distance in clear weather, rising high behind the beach, which sweeps with a gentle curve to the entrance of the harbor.

We were favored with a fresh sea breeze. Keeping in sight of the beach, we could see distinctly, before the day closed^ the Church of Our Lady of Nazareth, built on the shore thirty miles from the Cape ; also, " Cabo Negro," and the Maris Islands, which are said to be fourteen miles from the "Pao-de- Agucar,'' or Sugar Loaf, so called from its form, standing on the west side of the harbor.

The wind died away as the sun set, and we were obliged to wait for the morning under easy sail. The morning was cloudy and foggy, and we were unable to get into port that day. Towards evening we saw the islands again, and after night fall, the light on " Ilha Raza" or Flat Island, or, according to the easy translation of sailors. Razor Island. The sun set in a heavy bank of clouds, shooting his rays high, and gilding the skies in beautifully varied tints, and lighting up our hopes for the morrow ; the night, like the preceding, was spent under easy sail.

About eleven o'clock on Tuesday morning the sea-breeze set in, much to our relief, for we were weary with "hope delayed." As we drew near, the several small islands, sprinkled near the mouth of the harbor, came into sight one after the other, as the fog lifted slowly before the gentle breeze. Presently we saw the "Pao-de-A^ucar," rising nearly thirteen hundred feet* into the air on the left of the harbor's mouth, and on the right, the battlements of Santa Cruz, standing at the foot of a high mountain. When still nearer, we perceived the Brazilian flag of yellow and green ; the holy cross, emblematic of the religion of the country ; the telegraph and watch towers, then the masts of the shipping in the harbor. When

* Captain Beechey, R. N. measured it, both in 1825 and 1828. The first observation made its summit to be 1286, and the last, 1299 feet above the level of the sea. — Beechey' s Voyage.

To the westward of the Sugar Loaf, the land is very remarkable ; when approaching the harbor on a clear day, it presents the appearance of a huge figure of a man lying on his back. The profile of the face presents an immense nose and chin, while the " Pao-de-Agucar" represents the toes of this great man. Some exaggerating and waggish fancy has given to the whole the familiar appellation of Lord Hood's nose ; whether that feature of his Lordship merited the comparison, is not a matter of history ; — though Captain Basil Hall states that, "the characteristic prominence of the Hood nose" has been well known in the navy "for a glorious half century."

passing close under the guns of the fortress, we were hailed in a slow, stentorian tone, that seemed to issue from the rocks, for no human being was in sight ; allowing an interval between each word, the voice cried, "what — ship — is — that? — Where — do — you — come — from? — How — many — days — out? These questions being answered, it wished us a pleasant passage to the city, whose spires and fanes were already in view. We continued our course, passed a small fort situated near the entrance of BoTAFOGo, the fort of Villegagnon, point Gl&ria, and soon reached our anchorage, in one of the most beautiful and picturesque bays in the world.

We *' came to" about a mile from the city, with our bows to the southward and consequently looking out of the harbor. Rat Island and " Ilha das Cobras," lay between us and the shore. The former is notable, because navigators, on arriving here, resort to it for the purpose of testing the correctness of their nautical instruments. It is a small, low rock, and not far from the latter, which divides the outer from the inner harbor ; the men-of-war lie in the one, and merchantmen occupy the other.

From the Sugar Loaf, which is a conspicuous point, we will glance round this beautiful marine basin, and endeavor to convey some idea of its form. The " Pao-de-Agucar" is more than twelve hundred feet high, as mentioned above, and bears a striking resemblance to a loaf of sugar, inclining a little to one side. Its surface is nearly smooth, of a dark, sombre color, and sprinkled here and there with little tufts of stunted bushes. It stands on the west side of the harbor, and at the entrance of the almost circular bay of Botafogo, which sweeps round towards the city as far as San Berndrdo point. Notwithstanding the steepness of its sides, (that towards the sea being perpendicular, or perhaps overlooking the water for ten or fifteen feet above the surface,) it has been twice ascended, and both times from the most inaccessible point. Many years ago an Austrian midshipman, in that reckless spirit of enterprise which is a boon given to all sailors by father Neptune, when they wed the sea, offered to wager with his messmates that he would ascend the Sugar Loaf from the sea side, and display a flag on its summit. The offer was accepted, and the young son of the Ocean, properly equipped, started on his expedition. At the base of the rock, the water rises and falls alternately three or four feet as the waves roll past into the harbor, so that several attempts were made, before he succeeded in landing. He then toiled up the embrowned side of the rock, hoisting himself by a bush or by some inequality of the surface, till he reached the top, where he displayed his banner, and to the terror of the inhabitants of Rio, lighted a fire; for every one who was not aware of the enterprise, thought that the Pao-de-Agucar had suddenly become a volcano. After remaining all night under the dreadful apprehension, as he said, of being eaten by venomous serpents that hissed round the fire, or of rolling down the shot tower like mountain into the sea, if he should be overcome by sleep, he safely descended, and obtained the wager. In spite of its difficulties, the same feat was afterwards achieved by an American midshipman, who left "the stripes and stars" waving over the land while the bunting endured, for no Brazilian would venture to haul it down. The repetition of the enterprise is now forbidden by an imperial decree.

Close in the rear, the mountains are broken by deep ravines and splintered into peaks, one of which, called the Corcovado, out tops and overhangs the rest. Upon its very summit, like an eyry perched among the clouds, is an observatory and a watch tower which may be seen at a great distance, when not hidden in the vapors that frequently shroud it.*

Between San Bernardo and G16ria points extends a long beach, which, from having been the resort, in times past, of the gorgeously plumed flamingo, is now called " Praya do Flamingo." On G16ria point is placed, very conspicuously, a small white church, dedicated to the invocation of "Nossa Senhora de Gl&ria." The edifice is octahedral, and has a tall slender spire at one side. The hill on which it stands is one of the most picturesque spots about Rio. The terrace surrounding the church, which is about one hundred feet above the level of

• According to the measurement of Captain Beechey, R. N. made after the formula of Mr. Daniel, the base of the flag staff is by one observation 2308 feet, and by a second 2306 feet above the level of the sea.

the sea, forms a delightful promenade in " twilight gray," well suited for the dhioument of love. In the hall or entrance of the building are hung many mementos of the miracles wrought by our Lady of G-lory, who, it would appear, was an adept in the healing art. Casts in wax, many of them obscene in their configuration, from that of the simplest wound to the most loathsome ulcer, are collected here as testimonials of relief afforded at her hands and through her invocation, to the afflicted of both sexes.

From this point sweeps a small cove, lined by a neat row of white one story buildings that look out upon the bay, to point St. lago, upon which stands a fortress of the same name. The next cove is short, and terminates at "Cobras." Here the city is seen over a forest of the masts of small craft, reposing under the shelter of the mountains. The " Praga de San Jos^' the Palace, and the imperial Chapels are conspicuous. The whiteness of the buildings brings the whole, like a picture, in strong relief against the dark mountain sides in the back ground. Bells are ringing different peals at the same time, guns are firing, and at almost every hour of every day, hundreds of rockets are sent whizzing through the air in honor of some saintly festival. ' From the anchorage, the city appears to be a cleanly one, but " 'Tis distance lends enchantment to the view ;" for,