The travels and researches of Alexander von Humboldt: being a condensed narrative of his journeys in the equinoctial regions of America, and in Asiatic Russia; together with analyses of his more important investigations

Front matter

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TRAVELS AND RESEARCHES

BARON HUMBOLDT.

Preface

The celebrity which Baron Humboldt enjoys, and which he has earned by a life of laborious investigation and perilous enterprise., renders his name familiar to every person whose attention has been drawn to political statistics or natural philosophy. In the estimation of the learned no author of the present day occupies a higher place among those who have enlarged the boundaries of human knowledge. To every one accordingly whose aim is the general cultivation of the mental faculties, his works are recommended by the splendid pictures of scenery which they contain, the diversified information which they afford respecting objects of universal interest, and the graceful attractions with which he has succeeded in investing the majesty of science.

These considerations have induced the Publishers to offer a condensed account of his Travels and Researches, such as, without excluding subjects even of laboured investigation, might yet chiefly embrace those which are best suited to the purposes of the general reader. The public taste has of late years gradually inclined towards objects of useful knowledge, — works of imagination have in a great mea-

6 PREFACE.

sure given place to those occupied with descriptions of nature, physical or moral, — and the phenomena of the material world now afford entertainment to many who in former times would have sought for it at a different source. Romantic incidents, perilous adventures, the struggles of conflicting armies, and vivid delineations of national manners and individual character, naturally excite a lively interest in every bosom, whatever may be the age or sex ; but, surely, the great facts of creative power and wisdom, as exhibited in regions of the globe of which they have no personal knowledge, are not less calculated to fix the attention of all reflecting minds. The magnificent vegetation of the tropical regions, displaying forests of gigantic trees, interspersed with the varied foliage of innumerable shrubs, and adorned with festoons of climbing and odoriferous plants : the elevated table-lands of the Andes, crowned by volcanic cones, whose summits shoot high into the region of perennial snow; the earthquakes that have desolated populous and fertile countries; the vast expanse of the Atlantic Ocean, with its circling currents; and the varied aspect of the heavens in those distant lands, — are subjects suited to the taste of every individual who is capable of contemplating the wonderful machinery of the universe.

It is unnecessary here to present an analysis of the labours of the illustrious philosopher whose footsteps are traced in this volume. Suffice it to observe, that some notices respecting his early life introduce

PREFACE. i

the reader to an acquaintance with his character and motives, as the adventurous traveller, who, crossing the Atlantic, traversed the ridges and plains of Venezuela, ascended the Orinoco to its junction with the Amazon, sailed down the former river to the capital of Guiana, and after examining the Island of Cuba mounted by the valley of the Magdalena to the elevated platforms of the Andes, explored the majestic solitudes of the great cordilleras of Quito, navigated the margin of the Pacific Ocean, and wandered over the extensive and interesting provinces of New Spain, whence he made his way back by the United States to Europe. The publication of the important results of this journey was not completed when he undertook another to Asiatic Russia and the confines of China, from which he has but lately returned.

From the various works which he has given to the world have been derived the chief materials of this narrative ; and, when additional particulars were wanted, application was made to M. de Humboldt himself, who kindly pointed out the sources whence the desired information might be obtained. The life of a man of letters, he justly observed, ought to be sought for in his books ; and for this reason little has been said respecting his occupations during the intervals of repose which have succeeded his perilous journeys.

It is only necessary further to apprize the reader, that the several measurements, the indications of the

8 PREFACE.

thermometer, and the value of articles of industry or commerce, which in the original volumes are expressed according to French, Spanish, and Russian usage, have been reduced to English equivalents.

Finally, the Publishers, confident that this abridged account of the travels of Humboldt will prove beneficial in diffusing a knowledge of the researches of that eminent naturalist, and in leading to the study of those phenomena which present themselves daily to the eye, send it forth with a hope that its reception will be as favourable and extensive as that bestowed upon its predecessors.

Edinburgh, October 1832.

Chapter I. Introduction"

Birth and Education of Humboldt— His early Occupations — He resolves to visit Africa — Is disappointed in his Views, and goes to Madrid, where he is introduced to the King* and obtains Permission to visit the Spanish Colonies — Observations made on the Journey through Spain — Geological Constitution of the Country between Madrid and Corunna — Climate — Ancient Submersion of the Shores of the Mediterranean — Reception at Corunna, and Preparations for the Voyage to South America, Pag 6 1 7

Chapter II

VOYAGE FROM CORUNNA TO TENERIFFE. Departure from Corunna — Currents of the Atlantic Ocean — Marine Animals — Falling Stars — Swallows — Canary Islands — Lancerota— Fucus vitifolius — Causes of the Green Colour of Plants — La Graciosa — Stratified Basalt alternating with Marl — Hyalite — Quartz Sand — Remarks on the Distance at which Mountains are visible at Sea, and the Causes by which it is modified

Landing at TenerhTe, 2o

Chapter III. Island Of Teneriffe

Santa Cruz — Villa de la Laguna — Guanches — Present Inhabitants of TenerhTe — Climate — Scenery of the f^a^t Orotava Dragon-tree— Ascent of the Peak— Its Geological Character — Eruption- —Zones of Vegetation — Fires of St John, 41

Chapter IV. Passage From Teneriffe To Cumana

Departure from Santa Cruz — Floating 1 Seaweeds — Flying-fish — Stars — Malignant Fever — Island of Tobago — Death of a Passenger — Island of Coche — Port of Cumana — Observations made during the Voyage ; Temperature of the Air ; Temperature of the Sea ; Hygrometrical State of the Air ; Colour of the Sky and Ocean, Page 55

Chapter V. Cumana

Landing at Cumana — Introduction to the Governor — State of the Sick — Description of the Country and City of Cumana — Mode of Bathing in the Manzanares — Port of Cumana — Earthquakes ; Their Periodicity ; Connexion with the State of the Atmosphere ; Gaseous Emanations ; Subterranean Noises ; Propagation of Shocks ; Connexion between those of Cumana and the West Indies; and General Phenomena, (>8

CHAPTER YI.

RESIDENCE AT CTJMANA.

Lunar Halo — African Slaves — Excursion to the Peninsula of Araya — Geological Constitution of the Country — Salt-works of Araya — Indians and Mulattoes — Pearl-fishery — Maniquarez — Mexican Deer — Spring of Naphtha, 77

Chapter VII. Missions Of The Chaymas

Excursion to the Missions of the Chayma Indians — Remarks on Cultivation — The Impossible — Aspect of the Vegetation — San

Fernando — Account of a Man who suckled a Child — Cumanacoa — Cultivation of Tobacco — Igneous Exhalations— Jaguars — Mountain of Cocollar — Turimiquiri — Missions of San Antonio and Guanaguana, Page 80

Chapter VIII. Excursion Continued, And Return To Cumana

Convent of Caripe — Cave of Guacharo, inhabited by Nocturnal Birds- — Purgatory — Forest Scenery — Howling Monkeys — Vera Cruz — Cariaco — Intermittent Fevers — Cocoa-trees — Passage across the Gulf of Cariaco to Cumana, 99

Chapter IX. Indians Of New Andalusia

Physical Constitution and Manners of the Chaymas — Their Languages — American Races, « Ill

Chapter X. Residence At Cumana

Residence at Cumana — Attack of a Zambo — Eclipse of the Sun — Extraordinary Atmospherical Phenomena — Shocks of an Earthquake — Luminous Meteors, 121

Chapter XI. Voyage From Cumana To Guayra

Passage from Cumana to La Gua}Ta — Phosphorescence of the Sea

Group of the Caraccas and Chimanas — Port of New Barcelona

La Guayra — Yellow Fever — Coast and Cape Blanco — Road from LaGuavra to Caraccas, 128

Chapter XII

CITY OF CARACCAS AND SURROUNDING DISTRICT. City of Caraccas — General View of Venezuela — Population Climate — Character of the Inhabitants of Caraccas — Ascent of the Silk — Geological Nature of the District and the Mines, Page 143

Chapter XIII. Earthquakes Of Caraccas

Extensive Connexion of Earthquakes — Eruption of the Volcano of St Vincent's— Earthquake of the 26th March 1812— Destruc tii ^i of the City — Ten Thousand of the Inhabitants killed — Consternation of the Survivors — Extent of the Commotions, 157

Chapter XIV

JOURNEY FROM CARACCAS TO THE LAKE OF VALENCIA. Departure from Caraccas — La Buenavista — Valleys of San Pedro and the Tuy — Manterola — Zamang-tree — Valleys of Aragua— Lake of Valencia — Diminution of its Waters — Hot Springs — Jaguar — New Valencia — Thermal Waters of La Trinchera — Porto Cabello — Cow-tree — Cocoa-plantations — General View of the Littoral District of Venezuela, 166

Chapter XV. Journey Across The Llanos, From Aragua To San Fernando

Mountains between the Valleys of Aragua and the Llanos — Their Geological Constitution — The Llanos of Caraccas — Route over the Savannah to the Rio Apure — Cattle and Deer — Vegetation — Calabozo — Gymnoti or Electric Eels — Indian Girl — Alligators and Boas — Arrival at San Fernando de Apure, 186

Chapter XVI. Voyage Down The Rio Apure

San Fernando — Commencement of the Rainy Season — Progress of Atmospherical Phenomena — Cetaceous Animals — Voyage down the Rio Apure — Vegetation and Wild Animals —Crocodiles, Chiguires, and Jaguars — Don Ignacio and Donna Isabella — Water-fowl — Nocturnal Howlings in the Forest — Caribe-fish — Adventure with a Jaguar — Manatees — Mouth of the Rio Apure, Page 202

Chapter XVII. Voyage Up The Orinoco

Ascent of the Orinoco — Port of Encaramada — Traditions of a Universal Deluge — Gathering of Turtles' Eggs — Two Species de- ■ scribed — Mode of collecting the Eggs and of manufacturing the Oil —Probable Number of these Animals on the Orinoco — Decorations of the Indians — Encampment of Pararuma — Height of the Inundations of the Orinoco — Rapids of Tabage, 219

Chapter XVIII. Voyage Up The Orinoco Continued

Mission of Atures — Epidemic Fevers — Black Crust of Granitic Rocks — Causes of Depopulation of the Missions — Falls of Apures — Scenery — Anecdote of a Jaguar — Domestic Animals — Wild

Man of the Woods — Mosquitoes and other poisonous Insects

Mission and Cataracts of Maypures — Scenery — Inhabitants — Spice-trees — San Fernando de Atabipo — San Baltasar — The Mother's Rock — Vegetation — Dolphins — San Antonio de Javita — Indians — Elastic Gum — Serpents — Portage of the Pimichin — Arrival at the Rio Negro, a Branch of the Amazon — Ascent of the Casiquiare, 239

Chapter XIX. Route From Esmeralda To Angostura

Mission of Esmeralda — Curare Poison — Indians — Duida Mountain — Descent of the Orinoco — Cave of Ataruipe— Raudalito of Carucari — Mission of Uruana — Character of the Otomacs — Clay eaten by the Natives — Arrival at Angostura — The Travellers attacked by Fever — Ferocity of the Crocodiles,.... Page 2J2

Chapter XX. Journey Across The Llanos To New Barcelona

Departure from Angostura — Village of Cari — Natives — New Barcelona — Hot Springs— Crocodiles — Passage to Cumana, 288

Chapter XXI. Passage To Havannah, And Residence In Cuba

Passage from New Barcelona to Havannah — Description of the latter — Extent of Cuba — Geological Constitution — Vegetation — Climate — Population — Agriculture — E xports — Preparations for joining Captain Baudin's Expedition — Journey to Batabano, and Voyage to Trinidad de Cuba, 298

Chapter XXII. Voyage From Cuba To Carthagena

Passage from Trinidad of Cuba to Carthagena — Description of the latter — Village of Turbaco — Air-volcanoes — Preparations for ascending the Rio Magdalena, 309

Chapter XXIII. Brief Account Of The Journey From Carthagena To Quito And Mexico

Ascent of the Rio Magdalena— Santa Fe de Bogota — Cataract of Tequendama — Natural Bridges of Icononzo — Passage of Quindiu — Cargueros — Popayan — Quito — Cotopaxi and Chimborazo — Route from Quito to Lima — Guayaquil — Mexico — Guanaxuato — Volcano of Jorullo— Pyramid of Cholula, Page 323

CHAPTER, XXIV.

DESCRIPTION OF NEW SPAIN OR MEXICO. General Description of New Spain or Mexico — Cordilleras — Climates — Mines — Rivers — Lakes — Soil — Volcanoes — Harbours — Population — Provinces — Valley of Mexico, and Description of the Capital — Inundations, and Works undertaken for the Purpose of preventing them, 343

Chapter XXVIII. Journey To Asia

Brief Account of Humboldt's Journey to Asia, with a Sketch of the Four great Chains of Mountains which intersect the Central Part of that Continent, .....407

ENGRAVINGS.

Portrait of Baron F. H. A. Humboldt,— To face the

Vignette* Vignette — Basaltic Rocks and Cascade of Regla.

Dragon-tree of Orotava, .....Page 48

Humboldt's Route on the Orinoco. 129

Jaguar, or American Tiger, 212

Air-volcanoes of Turbaco, 318

Costumes of the Indians of Mechoacan, 341

THE

TRAVELS AND RESEARCHES

OF

BARON HUMBOLDT.

Introduction

irth and Education of Humboldt — His early Occupations — He resolves to visit Africa — Is disappointed in his Views, and goes to Madrid, where he is introduced to the King, and obtains Permission to visit the Spanish Colonies — Observations made on the Journey through Spain — Geological Constitution of the Country between Madrid and Corunna — Climate — Ancient Submersion of the Shores of the Mediterranean — Reception at Corunna, and Preparations for the Voyage to South America.

With the name of Humboldt we associate all that interesting in the physical sciences. No traveller ho has visited remote regions of the globe, for the lrpose of observing the varied phenomena of naire, has added so much to our stock of positive aowleclge. While the navigator has explored the •asts of unknown lands, discovered islands and o. lores, marked the depths of the sea, estimated the force of currents, and noted the more obvious traits hi the aspect of the countries at which he has touched ; while the zoologist has investigated the multi-

18 INTRODUCTORY REMARKS.

plied forms of animal life, the botanist the diversified vegetation, the geologist the structure and relations of the rocky masses of which the exterior of the earth is composed ; and while each has thus contributed to the illustration of the wonderful con. stitution of our planet, the distinguished traveller whose discoveries form the subject of this volume stands alone as uniting in himself a knowledge o all these sciences. Geography, meteorology, mag. netism, the distribution of heat, the various depart ments of natural history, together with the affinities of races and languages, the history of nations, th political constitution of countries, statistics, com merce, and agriculture, — all have received accumi: lated and valuable additions from the exercise of h rare talents The narrative of no traveller therefore could be more interesting to the man of varie information. But as from a work like that of whic the present volume constitutes a part subjects stric ly scientific must be excluded, unless when the can be treated in a manner intelligible to the pul lie at large, it may here be stated, that many of tl investigations of which we present the results, mu be traced in the voluminous works which the auth himself has published. At the same time enough w be given to gratify the scientific reader ; and whi the narrative of personal adventure, the diversifi phenomena of the physical world, the condition societies, and the numerous other subjects discus ed, will afford amusement and instruction, let it remembered that truths faithfully extracted fro the book of nature are alone calculated to enlarge t sphere of mental vision ; and that, while fancif description is more apt to mislead than to dire

BIRTH A

the footsteps of the student, there is reflected from the actual examination of the material universe a light which never fails to conduct the mind at once to sure knowledge and to pious sentiment.

Frederick Henry Alexander Von Humboldt was born at Berlin on the 14th of September 1769. He received his academic education at Gottingen and Frankfort on the Oder. In 1 790 he visited Holland and England in company with Messrs George Forster and Van Geuns, and in the same year published his first work, entitled u Observations on the Basalts of the Rhine." In 1 791 he went to Freyberg to receive the instructions of the celebrated Werner, the founder of geological science. The results of some of his observations in the mines of that district were published in 1793, under the title of Specimen Fierce Fribergensis Subterranece.

Having been appointed assessor of the Council of Mines at Berlin in 1792, and afterwards director-general of the mines of the principalities of Baireuth and Anspach in Franconia, he directed his efforts to the formation of public establishments in these districts ; but in 1795 he resigned his office with the view of travelling, and visited part of Italy. His active and comprehensive mind engaged in the study of all the physical sciences ; but the discoveries of Galvani seem at this period to have more particularly attracted his attention. The results of his experiments on animal electricity were published in 1796, with notes by Professor Blumenbach. In 1795 he had gone to Vienna, where he remained some time, ardently engaged in the study of a fine collection of exotic plants in that city. He travelled through several cantons of Salzburg and Styria with t'

brated Von Buch, but was prevented by the war which then raged in Italy from extending his journey to that country, whither he was anxious to proceed for the purpose of examining the volcanic districts of Naples and Sicily. Accompanied by his brother William Von Humboldt and Mr Fischer, he then visited Paris, where he formed an acquaintance with M. Aime Bonpland, a pupil of the School of Medicine and Garden of Plants, who, afterwards becoming his associate in travel, has greatly distinguished himself by his numerous discoveries in botany.

Humboldt, from his earliest youth, had cherished an ardent desire to travel into distant regions little known to Europeans, and, having at the age of eighteen resolved to visit the New Continent, he prepared himself by examining some of the most interesting parts of Europe, that he might be enabled to compare the geological structure of these two portions of the globe, and acquire a practical acquaintance with the instruments best adapted for aiding him in his observations. Fortunate in possessing ample pecuniary resources, he did not experience the privations which have disconcerted the plans and retarded the progress of many eminent individuals ; but, not the less subject to unforeseen vicissitudes, he had to undergo several disappointments that thwarted the schemes which, like all men of ardent mind, he had indulged himself in forming. Meeting with a person passionately fond of the fine arts, and anxious to visit Upper Egypt, he resolved to accompany him to that interesting count ry ; but political events interfered and forced him to abandon the project. The knowledge of the monuments of the more ancient nations of the Old World, which he acquired at

JOURNEY TO SPAIN. 21

this period,, was subsequently of great use to him in his researches in the New Continent. An expedition of discovery to the southern hemisphere, under the direction of Captain Baudin, then preparing in France, and with which MM. Michaux and Bonpland were to be associated as naturalists, held out to him the hope of gratifying his desire of exploring unknown regions. But the war which broke out in Germany and Italy compelled the government to withdraw the funds allotted to this enterprise. Becoming acquainted with a Swedish consul who happened to pass through Paris, with the view of embarking at Marseilles on a mission to Algiers, he resolved to embrace the opportunity thus offered of visiting Africa, in order to examine the lofty chain of mountains in the empire of Morocco, and ultimately to join the body of scientific men attached to the French army in Egypt. Accompanied by his friend Bonpland, he therefore betook himself to Marseilles, where he waited for two months the arrival of the frigate which was to convey the consul to his destination. At length, learning that this vessel had been injured by a storm, he resolved to pass the winter in Spain, in hopes of finding another the following spring.

On his way to Madrid, he determined the geographical position of several important parts, and ascertained the height of the central plain of Castile. In March 1799 he was presented at the court of Aranjuez, and graciously received by the king, to whom he explained the motives which induced him to undertake a voyage to the New Continent. Being seconded in his application by the representations of an enlightened minister, Don Mariano Luis de

22 GEOLOGY AND CLIMATE OF SPAIN.

Urquijo, he to his great joy obtained leave to visit and explore, without impediment or restriction, all the Spanish territories in America. The impatience of the travellers to take advantage of the permission thus granted did not allow them to bestow much time upon preparations ; and about the middle of May they left Madrid, crossed part of Old Castile, Leon, and Galicia, and betook themselves to Corunna, whence they were to sail for the island of Cuba.

According to the observations made by our travellers, the interior of Spain consists of an elevated table-land, formed of secondary deposites, — sandstone, gypsum, rock-salt, and Jura limestone. The climate of the Castiles is much colder than that of Toulon and Genoa, its mean temperature scarcely rising to 59° of Fahrenheit's thermometer. The central plain is surrounded by a low and narrow belt, in several parts of which the fan-palm, the date, the sugar-cane, the banana, and many plants common to Spain and the north of Africa vegetate, without suffering from the severity of the winter. In the space included between the parallels of thirty-six and forty degrees of north latitude the mean temperature ranges from 62*6° to 68*2° Fahrenheit, and by a concurrence of favourable circumstances this section has become the principal seat of industry and intellectual cultivation.

Ascending from the shores of the Mediterranean, towards the elevated plains of La Mancha and the Castiles, one imagines that he sees far inland, in the extended precipices, the ancient coast of the Peninsula ; a circumstance which brings to mind the traditions of the Samothracians and certain historical testimonies, according to which the bursting of the waters

ARRIVAL AT CORUNNA. 23

through the Dardanelles, while it enlarged the basin of the Mediterranean, overwhelmed the southern part of Europe. The high central plain just described would, it may be presumed, resist the effects of the inundation until the escape of the waters by the strait formed between the Pillars of Hercules had gradually lowered the level of the Mediterranean, and thereby once more laid bare Upper Egypt on the one hand, and on the other, the fertile valleys of Tarragon, Valentia, and Murcia.

From Astorga to Corunna the mountains gradually rise, the secondary strata disappear by degrees, and the transition rocks which succeed announce the proximity of primitive formations. Large mountains of graywacke and gr ay wacke- slate present themselves. In the vicinity of the latter town are granitic summits which extend to Cape Ortegal, and which might seem, with those of Brittany and Cornwall, to have once formed a chain of mountains that has been broken up and submersed. This rock is characterized by large and beautiful crystals of felspar, and contains tin-ore, which is worked with much labour and little profit by the Galicians.

On arriving at Corunna, they found the port blockaded by the English, for the purpose of interrupting the communication between the mother-country and the American colonies. The principal secretary of state had recommended them to Don Rafael Clavigo, recently appointed director-general of the maritime posts, who neglected nothing that could render their residence agreeable, and advised them to embark on board the corvette Pizarro bound for Havannah and Mexico. Instructions were

24 TEMPERATURE OF THE SEA.

given for the safe disposal of the instruments, and the captain was ordered to stop at Teneriffe so long as should be found necessary to enable the travellers to visit the port of Orotava and ascend the Peak.

During the few days of their detention, they occupied themselves in preparing the plants which they had collected, and in making sundry observations. Crossing to Ferrol they made some interesting experiments on the temperature of the sea and the decrease of heat in the successive strata of the water. The thermometer on the bank and near it was from 54° to 55-9°, while in deep water it stood at 59° or 59*5°, the air being 55°. The fact that the proximity of a sand-bank is indicated by a rapid descent of the temperature of the sea at its surface, is of great importance for the safety of navigators ; for, although the use of the thermometer ought not to supersede that of the lead, variations of temperature indicative of danger maybe perceived by it long before the vessel reaches the shoal. A heavy swell from the north-west rendered it impossible to continue their experiments. It was produced by a storm at sea, and obliged the English vessels to retire from the coast, — a circumstance which induced our travellers speedily to embark their instruments and baggage, although they were prevented from sailing by a high westerly wind that continued for several days.

DEPARTURE FROM CORUNNA. 25

CHAPTER, II.

Voyage from Corunna to Teneriffe.

Departure from Corunna — Currents of the Atlantic Ocean — Marine Animals — Falling- Stars — Swallows — Canary Islands — Lancerota — Fucus vitifolius — Causes of the Green Colour of Plants —La Graciosa — Stratified Basalt alternating- with Marl — Hyalite — Quartz Sand — Remarks on the Distance at which Mountains are visible at Sea, and the Causes by which it is modified — Landing at Teneriffe.

The wind having come round to the north-east, the Pizarro set sail on the afternoon of the 5th of June 1799, and after working out of the narrow passage passed the Tower of Hercules, or lighthouse of Corunna, at half-past six. Towards evening the wind increased, and the sea ran high. They directed their course to the north-west, for the purpose of avoiding the English frigates which were cruising off the coast, and about nine spied the fire of a fishing-hut at Lisarga, which was the last object they beheld in the west of Europe. As they advanced, the light mingled itself with the stars which rose on the horizon. " Our eyes/' says Humboldt, " remained involuntarily fixed upon it. Such impressions do not fade from the memory of those who have undertaken long voyages at an age when the emotions of the heart are in full force. How many recollections are awakened in the imagination

26 EQUINOCTIAL CURRENT.

by a luminous point, which in the middle of a dark nighty appearing at intervals above the agitated waves, marks the shore of one's native land I"

They were obliged to run under courses, and proceeded at the rate of ten knots, although the vessel was not a fast sailer. At six in the morning she rolled so much that the fore topgallant-mast was carried away. On the 7th they were in the latitude of Cape Finisterre, the group of granitic rocks on which, named the Sierra de Torinona, is visible at sea to the distance of 59 miles. On the 8th, at sunset, they discovered from the mast-head an English convoy; and to avoid them they altered their course during the night. On the 9th they began to feel the effect of the great current which flows from the Azores towards the Straits of Gibraltar and the Canaries. Its direction was at first east by south ; but nearer the inlet it became due east, and its force was such as, between 37° and 30° lat., sometimes to carry the vessel, in twenty- four hours, from 21 to 30 miles eastward.

Between the tropics, especially from the coast of Senegal to the Caribbean Sea, there is a stream that always flows from east to west, and which is named the Equinoctial Current. Its mean rapidity may be estimated at ten or eleven miles in twenty-four hours. This movement of the waters, which is also observed in the Pacific Ocean, having a direction contrary to that of the earth's rotation, is supposed to be connected with the latter only in so far as it changes into trade- winds those aerial currents from the poles, which, in the lower regions of the atmosphere, carry the cold air of the high latitudes towards the equator; and it is to the general impulse

GULF-STREAM. Zj

which these winds give to the surface of the ocean that the phenomenon in question is to be attributed. This current carries the waters of the Atlantic towards the Mosquito and Honduras coasts, from which they move northwards, and passing into the Gulf of Mexico follow the bendings of the shore from Vera Cruz to the mouth of the Rio del Norte, and from thence to the mouths of the Mississippi and the shoals at the southern extremity of Florida. After performing this circuit, it again directs itself northward, rushing with great impetuosity through the Straits of Bahama. At the end of these narrows, in the parallel of Cape Canaveral, the flow, which rushes onward like a torrent sometimes at the rate of five miles an hour, runs to the north-east. Its velocity diminishes and its breadth enlarges as it proceeds northward. Between Cape Biscayo and the Bank of Bahama the width is only 52 miles, while in 28^° of lat. it is 59 ; and in the parallel of Charlestown, opposite Cape Henlopen, it is from 138 to 173 miles, the rapidity being from three to five miles an hour where the stream is narrow, and only one mile as it advances towards the north. To the east of Boston and in the meridian of Halifax the current is nearly 2J6 miles broad. Here it suddenly turns towards the east ; its western margin touching the extremity of the great bank of Newfoundland. From this to the Azores it continues to flow to the E. and E.S.E., still retaining part of the impulse which it had received nearly 1150 miles distant in the Straits of Florida. In the meridian of the Isles of Corvo and Flores, the most western of the Azores, it is not less than 552 miles in breadth. From the Azores it directs itself