Recollections and opinions of an old pioneer

Front matter

Go[yiight)^".

CjOEffilGHT DEPOSIT,

RECOLLECTIONS AND OPINIONS

Chapter I

Ancestry : The Burnets — The Hardemans. Removals : To the Farm — To Missouri. Mode of Living — Manners and Customs. Bee-Hunt — Fisticuff Fights — Lazy Bill. Prairies — Their Origin, Return to Tennessee — Employed as Cleric in an Hotel. Samuel Houston — Newton Cannon — Andrew Martin — David Crockett — Adam Huntsman. W. B. Peck — John Y. Cockram — Peter Minncr. Courtship and Marriage. Purchase of the Store — Death of a Burglar. Return to Missouri — Crockett and Huntsman • 1

CHAPTER IL

Act as Clerk for a Time — Then go into the Mercantile Business with Others. Return to the Law — Employed by the Mormon Elders — Proceedings on Habeas Corpus. Oration by Sidney Rigdon — Sermon by Joseph Smith, Jr. — Battle between the Danites and Captain Bogard. Militia ordered out — Surrender of the Mormons. Prisoners brought before Judge King — Joseph Smith, Jr. — Lyman Wight — Sidney Rigdon. Appointed District Attorney — Qualifications of a Good Lawyer — Laborious Practice. DiCBculty of administering Criminal Justice — A Noted Criminal — An Able and Upright Judge. Case of Whittle — Judge Austin A. King. Characteristics of Lawyers — Nature of Legal Investigations — Difficulty of Simplifpng the Law — Causes of Infidelity among Lawyers. Political Views. Remarks on Dueling. Join the Disciples — Art of Governing Children 43

X CONTENTS.

Chapter III. Page

Determine to go to Oregon — Arrive at the Rendezvous — Remarks on the Nature of the Trip. Start from the Rendezvous — Kill our First Buffalo — Kill our First Antelope — Description of the Antelope. Cross to the Great Valley of the Platte — Buffalo Hunt — Description of that Animal. Cross the South Fork — Arrive at Fort Laramie — Cheyenne Chief — Cross the North Fork — Deaths of Paine and Stevenson — Cross Green River — Arrive at Fort Hall. Leave Fort Hall — Sage-Brush Lands — Salmon Falls — The Spear of the Lidian Fisherman — Cross Snake River — Kill a Large Salmon. Boiling Spring — Fort Boise — Burnt River — The Lone Pine — The Grande Ronde — The Blue Mountains — Arrive at Dr. Whitman's Mission — Arrive at Walla Walla. Descend the River to the Dalles — Leave my Family there — Go to Vancouver and Return — Governor Fremont. Go with my Family to Vancouver — Indian Tradition — The Town of Linnton. Purchase a Claim — Climate and Scenery of Oregon — ^Number of our Immigrants — Assistance rendered our Immigration, Dr. John McLoughlin — James Douglas — Policy of the Hudson's Bay Company in its Intercourse with the Indians 97

Chapter IV

Rocky Mountain Trappers — Their Peculiar Character — Black Harris — Joseph L. Meek — 0. Russell — Robert Newell. The Provisional Government. Condition of the People — Hardships endured by the Early Settlers. Become a Catholic — My General Rule as to Charges against Me. Misstatements of W. H. Gray. The Question whether there were any Constitutional Provisions in the Laws of 1843 considered. The Legislative Committee of 1844— Mistakes of W. U. Gray - - - -154

Chapter V

The Act in regard to Slavery and Free Negroes and Mulattoes — Misrepresentations of W. H. Gray. W. H. Gray — Criticism upon the History of Oregon. Elected Judge of the Supreme Court — Strange Resolution — Jesse Applegate. The Act to Prohibit the Introduction, Manufacture, Sale, and Barter of

CONTENTS. xi

FA6B

Ardent Spirits. Treaty of June 15, 1846— Policy of the Hudson's Bay Company — H. A. G. Lee — Indian Character. Massacre of Dr. Whitman and Others — Indian War — Its Result - 212

Chapter VI

Discovery of Gold in California — Determine to go to the Mines — Organize a Wagon-Party. Off for California — Incidents of the Trip. Overtake Peter Lassen and his Party — Arrival in the Sacramento Valley. Arrive at the House of Peter Lassen — Origin of the Term " Prospecting " — Arrival in the Mines — Mining. The Donner Party. A Lonely Grave — Death of David Ray— John C. McPherson - 252

CH^VPTER VII.

Leave the Mines — Arrive at Sutter's Fort — Become the Agent of John A. Sutter, Jr. — Captain John A. Sutter — Discovery of Gold. Selling Lots in Sacramento — Necessity of some Governmental Organization — Public Meeting at Sacramento City. Rivalry between Sacramento and Sutterville — Journey to San Francisco — Wonderful Coincidences — State of Society. Sailing Ships arrive with Gold-Seekers — Their Speculative Character — Gold- Washing Machines — Climate of San Francisco. Unsatisfactory Condition of the Government of the District of San Francisco. Communication to the "Alta California" — Failure of the Attempt to hold a Convention to frame a Provisional Government 286

CHAPTER VIIL

Return to Sacramento — Come a Second Time to San Francisco — Become a Member of the Legislative Assembly — Extracts from the Address of that Body to the People of California — Extracts from General Riley's Proclamation — Address of the Committee of Five. Extracts from my Second Communication to the "Alta California" — Grounds of General Riley's Views as to the Right of the People of California to organize a Provisional Government — Grounds of those who claimed that Right — The Controversy most fortunate for California — All Things happily tended to produce the Main Result desired by xii CONTENTS.

PAGE

US all — Eeturn to Sacramento City — Its Rapid Improvement — James S. Thomas. Appointed to a Seat in the Superior Tribunal — Sickness of one of my Daughters — Remove to San Jose — Administration of Justice in California during 1849 — State of Society — The Quack. Visit Monterey — Announce Myself a Candidate for Governor — Elected — Inaugural Address. The Chinese — Reasons for their Exclusion — The Burlingame Treaty 319

CHAPTER IX.

General Riley — Judge Thomas — Variable Prices — Monopolies. Agricultural Character of the State — Native Grasses Annual, not Perennial — Native Clover. The Squirrels of California — Their Peculiar Characteristics — Speculative Character of our Farmers — Uncertainty of Wealth in this State — Incidents. Incredulity of the People East as to the True Facts in regard to California — Scurvy — Admission of California into the Union — Stage-Race — Cholera. Extracts from my Second Annual Message — Resignation of the Office of Governor. Resume the Practice of the Law — Death of Judge Jones — Passengers of the Margaret — A Faithful Son. Defective Administration of Criminal Law in California — Illustrations — Pay the last of my Old Debts. Great Fire in Sacramento City — Assist in rebuilding the City — Rancho of Samuel Norris — Coursing the Jack-Rabbit. The Vigilance Committee of 1856— 5Iy First Voyage at Sea — Incidents 359

CHAPTER X.

Appointed a Justice of the Supreme Court — Painful Incident — Anticipated our Civil War — My Views upon that Subject. Determine to engage in Banking — Elected President of the Pacific Accumulation Loan Company — The Institution put in Practical Operation — Difficulties in our Way — Change the Name to " Pacific Bank." V/ild Banks — Speculative Character of our People — Incident. Merchants and other Business Men often secretly engage in Stock-Speculations — Illustrative Cases of Speculation — Failures sometimes falsely attributed to Speculation in Mining Stocks. True Rule as to Bank Contributions — Banking a Trying Business — The Infallible Banker — Five

CONTENTS. xiii

PAGE

Main Points to consider in making Loans — Devices to obtain Credit. A Good Banker may often save iiis Customers from Losses against their Will — Incidents of the Suspension of certain Banks in 18'75 — Difficulty of obtaining Faithful Employees. Extreme Wealth not the Happiest Condition in Life — Reasons for this Conclusion. Wives should be consulted about all Important Affairs — Daughters should be taught a Knowledge of Business — Conclusion 404

Chapter I. Ancestry : The Bukkets — The Haedemans

I AM the eldest son of George and Dorothy Burnet, and was born in Nashville, Tennessee, November 15, 1807. ]VIy' father was born in Pittsylvania County, Virginia, September 26, 1770, and died in Clay County, Missouri, February 22, 1838: The family all spelled the name with a single t. When I was about nineteen, I added another t, and my example has been followed by all my brothers. My reason for the change was the opinion that the name would be more complete and emphatic when spelled Burnett.

My mother was the daughter of Thomas Hardeman, and was born in Davidson County, Tennessee, May 15, 1786, ai6d died in Platte County, Missouri, March 17, 1843. My grandfather Hardeman was born in Virginia, January 8, 1750 ; and his brother, whom I never saw, settled in Georgia. My grandfather Hardeman was ajnong the first settlers of Tennessee, and participated in the Indian wars of that comitry. He was a stout man, possessed a very fine constitution, a determined will, and naturally a sjilendid intellect. His education was originally very limited, but by study he became a man of distinction. He was the neighbor and warm friend of General Andrew Jackson, and was, with the General, a member of the first Constitutional Convention of Tennessee. He was a farmer and made a fortune, living to the age of seventy-two. He reared eight sons and three daughters : Nicholas Perkins, Nancy, John, Constant, Eleazar, Peter, Dorothy, Thomas Jones, Blackstone, Elizabeth, and Baily. All these married, and all reared families, except my aunt Elizabeth.

My grandfather Hardeman was twice married, his two wives being sisters, but all his children were the issue of his first marriage. He brought up his sons to his own business, except John and Baily, to whom he gave fine educations. They were intended for the bar, but never practiced. Both were men of fine mental capacity, especially uncle John, who was one of the most accomplished literary men of the Western States.

My grandfather Hardeman taught certain maxims to his children that have come down to his grandchildren, and have had a great influence over his posterity: First. Pay your honest debts.

Second. Never disgrace the family.

Third. Help the honest and industrious kin. My father came to Nashville when it was a small village, and was married to my mother in 1802, in Davidson County, Tennessee. He had several brothers and sisters, some of whom I remember to have seen. They nearly all lived and died in Kentucky. I never saw my grandfather Burnet. My father was a carpenter and farmer, uncle William was a blacksmith, uncle John a school-teacher, uncle James a farmer, and uncle Henry a cabinet-maker. All my father's brothers and sisters were married, and all reared families. All my uncles and aunts on both sides are gone. Many of them lived to be old people. I remember well when I belonged to the younger members of the family. Now I stand among the 'eldest.

ANCESTRY. 3

There was a great difference between my father's and mother's families. The Hardemans were fond of pleasure, and were generally extravagant when young. Most of them, especially my male cousins, when setting out in life, wasted their patrimony, not in dissipation of any kind, but in fashionable life ; and afterward set earnestly to work, most of them making good livings, and some of them fortunes. The Hardemans were generally men of the world, first fond of fashionable pleasures, dress, and show, and afterward seekers of fortune. But, though wild when young men, I have yet to hear of the first instance in which they were ever accused of any criminal offense, great or small. They sometimes had fisticuff fights (though very rarely), but I never knew one of them to fight a duel. With very rare exceptions, they all paid their debts. They were generally good business men, and good traders in such property as lands and stock, and were punctual in keeping their promises, and firm in telling the truth. All of the name were very proud of the family; and, though they might have disputes among themselves, they would not permit others to speak ill even of those they themselves blamed. They were very generous in aiding their relatives in starting in business, generally by good advice to the young, and often by loans of money. They were especially kind to the unfortunate. They were generally quick-tempered and downright in the expression of their opinions. My grandfather Hardeman and most of his sons seemed to think it a conscientious duty, when they saw any one do what they clearly considered a mean act, to tell him what they thought of him in plain terms. They were candid and resolute men, and you always knew how you stood with them. If they disliked you, they would tell you so. There were many marriages

RECOLLECTIONS OF AN OLD PIONEER.

between cousins, especially in the Perkins family, who were related through my grandmother Hardeman, whose maiden name was Perkins. The Pei'kins family came from North Carolina.

On the contrary, my father's family were not seekers of fortune. Uncle James being the only one who ever acquired any considerable amount of property. They were men of peace, very just, industrious, sober, and piously disposed. They cared very little for riches, being content with a fair living ; but they possessed fine literary abilities. My father was raised very poor, and never went to school but three months in his life. He emigrated West while a young man, and spent his time mostly at hard work ; and, although he had never studied English grammar, he wrote and spoke the language with substantial accuracy. He possessed an extraordinary mathematical talent, so that he could solve in a few moments very difficult problems. I remember an instance, which occurred after I was grown. I saw a problem published in a newspaper in Tennessee when I was about twenty-two, and it took me some three days to arrive at a correct solution. Upon a visit to my father in 1830, I projDosed the same question to him, and it did not take him more than half an hour, and he did not make half as many figures as I had done. The rules by which he solved most questions were his own. He understood the treason of the science.

My uncle, John Burnet, had a fine talent for general science, and several of my cousins on my father's side have been lawyers of ability. One of my father's cousins, of whom I remember to have heard hira often speak, and whosp opportunities had been very limited, rose to distinction at the bar and on the bench. I re-

ANCESTRY. 5

member my father often referred" to this relative as a fit example for me to follow.

My father was very industrious, understood his trade as a carpenter well, and made a pretty good farmer ; but he had no capacity for trading, and was often cheated. I never knew but one of the Hardemans who was dissipated, and that was Uncle Perkins ; but that which was a cause of surprise was that, during the dissipated part of his life, he made a good living, and when he died left his family in comfortable circumstances. Of the Burnets, all the old set were examples of sobriety, peace, kindness, and honesty ; and among the younger class, including cousins and half cousins, I never knew of but three who were confirmed drunkards ; and I never heard of any one of the blood committing any crime, great or small.

My father and mother reared eight children, five sons and three daughters : Constantia Dudley, Peter Hardeman, Glen Owen, George William, Elizabeth Ann, James White, Mary Henry Jones, and Thomas Smith. Sister Constantia was twice married, and died in Liberty, Missouri, in 1846. Sister Mary married Dr. Benjamin S. Long in 1838, and died in Clay County, Missouri, in 1843. Sister Elizabeth has been twice married, and now lives a widow in Mendocino County, California, and has ten living children. Glen, Thomas, and myself reside in California, and my brother White in Oregon. My brother William lived in Oregon from the fall of 1846 until his death, December 25, 1877.

Our family are much divided in religion. Glen and White are Disciples, or Campbellites, as they are sometimes called ; Sister Elizabeth is a Baptist ; Thomas is a Southern Methodist ; and I am a Catholic. Brothers Glen and Thomas are preachers. Brother White is a fai'raer, and I am a banker. Brother Thomas is now living with his second wife. Glen and mwelf married r sisters, the only daughters of Peter Rogers, who died in [Clay County, Missouri, in 1858, aged about seventy. ' We reared six children — three sons and three daughters :

Dwight J. Burnett, born in Hardeman County, Tennessee, May 23, 1829, and married to Miss Mary Wilcox in Sacramento City, January, 1850.

Martha L. Burnett, born in Liberty, Clay County, Missouri, April 29, 1833, and married to C. T. Ryland in Alviso, Santa Clara County, California, January 23, 1851.

Romeetta J. Burnett, born in Liberty, Missom-i, February 14, 1836, and married to W. T. Wallace in Alviso, California, March 30, 1853.

John M. Burnett, born in Liberty, Missouri, February 4, 1838, and married to Miss Ellen Casey in San Francisco, April 27, 1863.

Armstead L. Burnett, born in Liberty, Missouri, October 7, 1839, married to Miss Flora Johnson in San Jose, California, November 21, 1860, and died in San Jose, May 26, 1862.

Sallie C. Burnett, born in Platte City, Platte County, Missouri, September 27, 1841, married to Francis Poe in San Jose, November 21, 1860, and died in Sacramento City, May 24, 1861.

REMOVALS : TO THE FARM TO MISSOURI.

My father built several of the first log and frame buildings in Nashville, and one frame building for himself. My earliest recollections are connected with Nashville. I remember my father's house, and that he punished me one evening for running away from home ; a

REMOVALS. 7

circumstance well calculated, in its nature, to make a lasting impression. About 1811 he moved upon a farm in Williamson County, about four miles south of Franklin, and on the main road to Columbia, the county seat of Maury County. My grandfather Hardeman having removed to Howjj'd_County^Misjouri^ about 181 6, my father went to look at that locality in the summer of 1817, and moved there in the fall of that year. We spent the first winter in a large camp with a dirt floor, boarded up on the sides with clapboards, and covered with the same, leaving a hole in the center of the roof for the escaj)e of the smoke. All the family lived together in the same room, the whites on one side and the blacks on the other. In the fall of 1819, or spring of 1820, we removedt^ Franklin in the same county, then a most flourishing place, where my father worked at his trade and also kept a boarding-house, until the toAvn began to decline ; when, in the fall of 1820, we returned to the farm four miles above Franklin.^ The Missouri bottoms were exceedingly sickly in 1820-21 ; so much so, that the larger portion of the inhabitants removed to the hills. In these years my father's family suffered very much from fever and ague. I remember that all of the family, fourteen in number, were sick at the same time, except a little negro boy about six years old. I suffered from fever and ague two falls and winters in succession, when I was twelve and thirteen years of age.

The location of my father's farm, in the Missouri bottom, being so unhealthy^ we removed to Clay County in the- spring of 1822, my father having entered a tract of 160 acres at the Land Oflice, at $1.25 per acre. Here we had to begin again to clear off the timber and build houses.

Th^ first steamboats I ever saw were at Franklin in 1820. They were the first steamers on the Missouri River, with one exception. A short time before, a single steamer, as I am informed, had passed a short distance above Franklin, and was snagged and sunk. The steamers that I saw were three in cumber, and were sent by Colonel Richard M. Johnson^ contractor for supplies at Council Bluffs, at which point the United States Government then had a military post, I remember that one of these vessels was propelled by a stern-wheel, and had a large wooden figurehead, representing the head and neck of an immense snake, through the mouth of which the steam escaped. This boat made quite a grand appearance, and caused much speculation among the people. Some were of the opinion that all the steam machinery (which they called " works ") was in the belly of this snake. I remember seeing these boats start up the river from the landing. They crossed over to the Booneville side, and in crossing were barely able to keep from falling below the point they left. This was in the summer, when the water was high and the current rapid. Now, however, a steamer on that river will stem the current at any stage of the water with ease. The boat alluded to was called "the Western Engineer." There were no regular steamboats on the river until some five years later.

The early settlers in Missouri had a very hard time of it, especially those who could not hunt the wild game successfully, which was at that time abundant. When we moved from Howard to Clay County (a distance of some two hundred and fifty miles by water), our supplies and household furniture were sent up the river in a flat-boat, which had to be towed up most of the way by men, who walked upon the bank of the

REMOVALS. 9

stream, pulling upon a long rope attached to the boat, and cutting down the willows along the bank in many places, so as to open a foot-path. The water was low, and it required some vtorty days t o make the trip. All the supplies of merchandise were transported at that time from St. L ouis to L iberty Land ing in keel-boats. For this reason freight was high and prices in proportion : coffee, 50 cts. per pound ; sugar, 25 to 37^ cts. ; calico, 37^ to 50 cts. per yard ; and brown cotton, from 25 to 37^ cts. Iron and salt, two most necessary articles, were high, and it was difficult for farmers to pay for them.

It so happened that, although when we settled in Howard and Clay Counties provisions were scarce and high, when we had succeeded in raising produce for sale, the dejnand had diminished, the supply had increased, and prices declined to a low figure. Indian corn was 10 cts. a bushel, wheat 50 cts., pork $L25 per hundred pounds, and other things in proportion. As everything the farmers had for sale was very loto, and all they purchased very high, they were able to purchase very little, and that of the plainest description. A sack or two of coffee and a barrel of brown sugar would last a merchant some time. Many persons supplied themselves with maple sugar. This was the case with my father. I remember that " sugar - making time " was always a season of hard work, but of festivity with the young people, especially when the sugar was "stirred off." At this time what was called a " sugar-stick " was in great demand. After the sugar was molded into cakes or grained, it was carefully deposited in the black- walnut "sugar-chest," and put under lock and key. The ants were very fond of sugar, and would find their way into the chest. To keep them out, each of the four legs was put into a small, hollow, square block of wood, filled with tar. This Stygian pool these insignificant little pests would never cross.

MODE OF LIVING MANXEES AND CUSTOMS.

Our manner of living was very simple. For some years the only mills in the country were propelled by horses, each customer furnishing his own team, and taking his proj)er turn to grind his grain. At times when the mills were thronged (and this was generally so in winter), they had to wait from one to two days. During this time the mill-boys mostly lived on parched corn. The manner of sending to mill was to put a bag, some three feet long, and containing from two and a half to three bushels of grain, across the back of a gentle horse, the bag being well balanced by having the same quantity in each end, and then putting a man or boy upon the top to keep it on, and to guide the horse. It often happened that both bag and boy tumbled off, and then there was trouble, not so much because the boy was a little hurt (for he would soon recover), but because it was difficult to get the bag on again. When any one could shoulder a bag of corn, he was considered a man ; and to stand in a half -bush el measure, and shoulder a bag containing two and a half to three bushels, was considered quite a feat. I heard of a woman who could do so, but never saw her, and can not say that the statement was true.

For some years very little wheat was grown, Indian corn being thQ only grain raised ; and, when Avheat was produced, there were no good flour-mills for some time. If, during those times, we had a biscuit and a cup Of coffee every Sunday morning we were fortunate. As a

MODE OF LIVING. H

substitute for coffee, we often used rye or corn meal parched ; and instead of " store tea " we used the root of the sassafras. Our clothing was " homespun," made by our mothers and sisters — jeans and linsey for the males, and linsey and striped cotton for the females. Ilunting-shirts and jDants of dressed buckskin were very common, and in some very rare cases females were clad in dressed buckskin. In summer the boys and girls went barefoot, and young and married women often. Moccasins were often worn instead of shoes. I have seen young women, in going to public places, stop a short distance before reaching the place, take off their coarse shoes, and put on their " Sunday shoes." Such a thing as a fine carriage was never seen. Some very few had what was then called a " Dearborn," being a small vehicle for one horse, and without any top to it. Our linsey and jeans for e very-day use were usually colored with hickory or walnut bark, that of a finer quality with indigo. A suit of blue jeans was considered a fine dress. I remember that in Clay County, about 1824-'25, there were only three or four men who could boast of a suit of broadcloth. A yoimg man who had been in the service of the United States as a soldier came to Liberty, Clay County, about that time, and dressed himself in a new suit of blue broadcloth, surmounted by an elegant new fur hat of his own workmanship (he was a hatter), and he used to strut up and down the only street in the place, to the great astonishment of others. At that time there must have been about three hundred voters in the county.

The principal trade at that date was in skins, honey, and beeswax, all wild productions. When Missouri was first settled, cotton was cultivated for domestic use. The seeds were picked out by hand, or by a small gin

J consisting of two wooden rollers, three quarters of an inch in diameter and a foot long, to one of which a crank and handle were attached. The operator sat across a bench, upon which the rollers on the top of a piece of timber w'ere securely fastened, and turned the crank with his right and applied the cotton with his left hand. The rollers were placed together, so that turning one would turn the other ; and, w^hile the cotton, in thin slices, would pass between them, the seed could not. It was, however, a slow process.

What were called " cotton pickings " were then verycommon. The young people of the neighborhood assembled about dark, divided themselves into two equal parties, placed the quantity of cotton to be picked in two large piles before a big fire, and then commenced a race to see which party would get through first. The cotton picked more easily when warmed, and this was the reason for placing it before the fire. Much cheating was done by hiding away portions of the unpicked cotton. The object was to accomplish the task as early as possible, and then to enter into the dance, or the various plays then common, such as "Old Jake," "Pleased or displeased?" "Tired of your company?" "Bishop of Winchester has lost his crown," and " We are marching along toward Quebeck." I remember that, when I was about fourteen years of age, I attended a cotton-picking in Howard County, at the house of a widow. I had never danced any, and, though naturally diffident, I determined I would break the ice. There was present an old maid. Miss Milly A., with whom I was well acquainted — a large, corpulent woman, low, thick-set, and weighing about two hundred pounds. With her I danced some seven sets (most of them Virginia reels), without a rest. Though so large, she moved over the

MODE OF LIVING. 13

puncheon floor Avith ease and grace, and was amply able, I found to my sorroAV, to tire me out ; for the next day I was so sore that I could scarcely walk. This rash experiment cured me of dancing for some years.