With fly-rod and camera

Front matter

WITH FLY -Ron AND CAMERA

BY

EDWARD A. SAMUELS

Preface

TN THE preparation of this book I have made no ef- •*- fort to write a technical work, but have aimed rather to produce a volume which would, by the descriptions given of the haunts and habits of a few of our game fish, and of the incidents and methods of their capture, not only entertain and please my brother anglers, but instil in the minds of those who have not yet acquired "the gentle art," a desire to taste the pure and healthful pleasures which it affords.

I know of no other pastime or field sport, a love of which once acquired, that gives such lasting and perfect enjoyment as fly-fishing, and I earnestly hope that a perusal of these pages will do something toward guiding the attention of our young men and women in its direction.

In connection with the pleasure to be derived from the fly-rod, the angler now has an accessory in his outings which will add vastly to his enjoyment, both in the present and years to come. I refer to the camera.

viii Preface.

For many years I have worked with the wet plate method, but that, of course, is unwieldy, cumbrous, and requires such an outfit that for distant field work it is well nigh impracticable.

But within a few years the dry plate process has been perfected to such a marvelous degree that one can now take his camera and dry plates, or sensitized paper, or celluloid rolls, and can save for future enjoyment a picture of every delightful thing that meets his vision. I have for several years carried my camera with me over wild and rugged mountains, through many miles of almost unbroken wilderness, down the rapids of rushing streams and across wide stretches of lakes in my frail canoe, and have a treasury of pictures that will hereafter prove of the greatest delight and comfort to me. And it is my great regret that I did not possess such a photographic outfit thirty years ago as I at present have. If I could have saved photographs of all the wonderful scenes and incidents through which I have passed, and many of which are now lost even to the vision of memory, the collection would have been priceless. The angler and tourist, young and old, if he takes my most earnest advice, will procure a photographic outfit, and preserve for his comfort in old age the pictured record of his delightful outings by " flood and field."

Preface. ix

As an example of what may be done, I offer the illustrations in this volume, which have been reproduced from some of the photographs in my collection, the negatives of most of which I made myself. Most of the reproductions are satisfactory in the highest degree ; others are not quite so perfect. Of course the instantaneous exposures, marked (Inst.) on the plates, which were necessarily made when moving objects were photographed, do not give that completeness of detail that timed ones do, but the average given is, I think, a good one.

While most of the illustrations are from photographs made by myself, my grateful acknowledgments are due to Dr. S. J. Mixter of Boston, Robert L. P. Masson of Providence, R. I.; Dr. C. A. Kingsbury of Philadelphia, Pa.; Dr. M. A. Morris of Charlestown, Mass., and others, for the gift or loan of many of the most attractive of the photographs that I have reproduced.

The descriptions of fish and their habits, that I have given, have been purposely veiled by dialogue and narrative, in order that untechnical readers may not be wearied by a perusal of matter which ordinarily has for them but little attraction.

Brother anglers, when you read my book, I hope you will bear with me if my accounts of the pleasures we enjoy lack the poetry and magic eloquence which x Preface.

others could have given them ; remember that the book is not a pretentious one, but is rather an unassuming and humble companion to others that have better shown in sweeter and more symmetrical lines the delights and charms of the angler's life, which, " Exempt from public haunt, finds tongues in trees, books in the running brooks, sermons in stones, and good in everything."

EDWARD A. SAMUELS.

Chapter I

OUR FIRST NIGHT ON THK RIVER. • How TO SEK A SALMON IN A DEEP POOL. • SPEARING AND GILL-NETTING DISCUSSED AND CON- DEMNED. • CAPE BRETON SALMON SPEARING. • HARD LUCK. THE BOY TOLD A STRAIGHT STORY. • DESTRUCTION CAUSED BY SEINING. • A STARTLING SPLASH IN THE POOL. • FLY-FISHING BY MOONLIGHT FOR TROUT AND SALMON. • THE DELIGHTS OF ANGLING. • THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE TRUE SPORTSMAN AND THE FISH KILLER. • THE MIRAMICHI AND ITS TRIBUTARIES. SOME FISHERY STATISTICS. • CHANGES IN THE LIFE OF THE SAL- MON. • DID YOU EVER SEE A FEMALE GRILSE? • How TO DRAG A SALMON FLY. • FAVORITE FLIES. • HABITS OF THE SALMON. KELTS ARE UNFIT FOR FOOD.

Chapter II., An

EARLY CAST.

OUGHLY. • A

SILVER DOCTORS.

BIG SEA TROUT.

COVER THE WATER THOR- LIVELY TIMES. • How TO

COOK A TROUT.

HOOKED AND LOST.' ON THE MAGALLOWA DRIFT TREE TOP.

GREAT STRUGGLE.

THE FIFTH POOL.

A MAN WHO WANTED

AN ADMIRABLE CAST. • ANOTHER SALMON "FLY P'ISON" IN DEMAND. • BLACK FLIES A ROUGH EXPERIENCE. • PLAYING A Two FISH HOOKED AND BOTH SAVED. • A THE CUP THAT CHEERS. • WE ASCEND TO QUEER CHARACTERS WHO Go A-FISHING.

THE EARTH. • JEALOUSY. • LAKE AND

SPOTTED OR BROOK TROUT COMPARED. • KILLING A TOGUE ON THE FLY. • SCHOODIC FISHING IN OLD TIMES. • PICTURESQUE SEA COAST OF MAINE. • LAND-LOCKED SALMON. • DUCKS IN ABUND- ANCE. • A LIVELY FISH. • HOOKING A PAIR OF LAND-LOCKS. TROLLING FOR SALMON. • PICKEREL FISHING. • How TO MAKE A BARK CAMP. - " FISH KILLERS." • INDIAN TRADITIONS. • A PLENTY OF LAND-LOCKS LEFT.

PAGE 21 xii Contents.

PAGE

Chapter III., - 197

A BRIGHT MORNING. • NOTIONS ABOUT FLIES. • A NUISANCE OF SEA TROUT. • ANOTHER SALMON HOOKED. • SPLENDID PLAY. • DISMAY. "CONFOUND THE DRIFT WOOD!" • PHILOSOPHERS. • KILLING THE FlSH NOT ALL THERE IS OF FlSHING. • KINGFISHERS AND SHEL- DRAKES AS PESTS ON A SALMON OR TROUT RIVER. • IT'S A WONDER

WE HAVE ANY SALMON LEFT. • A SALMON THAT HAS LONG BEEN

IN THE RIVER is SHY OF THE FLY. • THE PHANTOM MINNOW USED IN TROLLING FOR SALMON. • A STRANGE LOT OF FISH. • AGGRA- VATING SALMON. • EXCITING TIMES. • WORMS AS BAIT FOR SALMON. • A STRONG FISH, AND A CONTEST LONG TO BE REMEM- BERED. • A BAD MESS. • RETRIBUTION. • RISING TO THE FLY IN STILL WATER. • AN EXCITING STRUGGLE. • VICTORY. • FISH IN ABUNDANCE. • OUR PERMANENT CAMP. • SUCH LUCK AS AN AMATEUR SOMF.TIMES HAS. • SALMON THAT PLAYED ME. • FISHER- MAN'S LUCK.

Chapter IV., 250

A CHOICE OK ROUTES TO CAPE BRETON. • PORT MULGRAVE AND THE GUT OF CANSO. • ST. PETER'S CANAL. • THE BEAUTIFUL BRAS D'OR. • ALL ABOUT SYDNEY AND COAL. • THE SUCCESS OF THE SYDNEY FISH HATCHERY. • STATISTICS OF CAPE BRETON SALMON BREEDING. • POOR OLD LOUISBOURG. • BADDF.CK. • A DELIGHT- FUL TRIP TO THE MARGAREE. • EDUCATED TROUT. • SUCCESS IN USING A "GRAY MOUSE." • NORTHEAST MARGAREK. • ABUND- ANCE OF SEA TROUT. • THE FISHING STATION OF CHETTICAMP. WORK OF THE FISH COMMISSIONERS AT NORTHEAST MARGAREE. TAKING AND HANDLING SALMON EGGS. • PICTURESQUE SCENERY ON THE MARGAREE. • LAKE AINSLEE. • A CELEBRATED POOL. OUTWITTING EDUCATED FISH. • WHYKOKOMAGH. • A MOST EN- JOYABLE SAIL. • ABUNDANCE AND VARIETY OF BIRD LIFE ON CAPE BRETON.

Chapter V., 300

A HEAVY RAIN. • SOUNDS OF THE NIGHT. • FLY-FISHING SOMETIMES GOOD IN A STORM. • A GREAT CATCH. • TROUT, DUCKS ANO GREBES EXTERMINATED BY PICKEREL. • OZONE. • ANOTHER SAL- MON HOOKED. • HOPES AND FEARS. • DISAPPOINTMENT. • HIRAM AS A FLY-CASTER. • MORE ABOUT FAVORITE FLIES. • A HAND- SOME TRIO. • HOOKED AND SAVED. • FRERE GETS ANOTHERFISH. How THE COUNTRY BOY ANGLES FOR A SALMON. • A SQUIRREL SKIN FLY. • A GREAT CATCH. • THE JACQUET RIVER IN NEW

Contents. xiii

PACK

CHAPTER V. (Continued) 300

BRUNSWICK. • BARCLAY'S HOTEL AND THE BEACH ON THE BAIE DBS CHALEURS. • GOOD SPORT IN PROSPECT. • A SUMMONS FROM HIRAM. EXCITEMENT. • A LONG STRUGGLE. • CONGRATULATIONS. • A PRETTY STRING OF SEA TROUT. • FRKRE ALSO HAS GOOD SUCCESS. SENDING OUT FISH TO FRIENDS. • TROUT FISHING AT THE RANGE- LEYS. • GREAT SPORT WITH LIGHT TACKLE. • HATCHING SALMON ARTIFICIALLY A GREAT SUCCESS. • THE OPERATIONS AT DIFFERENT HATCHERIES. - WEIR OWNERS GET THE CREAM. • OUR ANGLERS THE FIRST TO URGE THE ARTIFICIAL STOCKING OF RIVERS AND LAKES. STATISTICS OF SALMON FISHERIES. • POACHERS GROWING MORE RECKLESS. • SURFACE FISHING CANNOT EXTERMINATE THE FISH. HABITS OF THE SALMON. • CONJECTURES CONCERNING THE IDENTITY OF THE SEA TROUT. • ALL ABOUT LAKES EDWARD AND ST. JOHN. THE HOME OF THE WINNINISH. • GREAT RIVERS IN THE NORTH. Is THE WINNINISH A LAND-LOCKED SALMON? • DIMENSIONS AND WEIGHT OF SCHOODIC SALMON.

Chapter VI., - - 406

THE LAST DAY IN CAMP. • SPAWNING HABITS OF THE SALMON. SALMON RUNS. • THE SEA TROUT, ITS GAMENESS, ITS IDENTITY. THE WINNINISH. • LAKE EDWARD. • LAKE ST. JOHN AND ITS FISHING. • THE PERIBONCA AND THE ASHUAPMOUCHOUAN RIVERS. THE LAND - LOCKED SALMON.

Chapter VII., • 438

THE MORNING OF OUR LAST DAY ON THE RIVER. • A RISE IN THE RIVER. • LONG CASTS. • EXCELLENCE OF THE SPLIT-BAMBOO ROD. ABOUT FLY-CASTING TOURNAMENTS. - EXCITEMENT IN RUNNING RAPIDS. • A RISE. • AN EXCITING STRUGGLE. • A STUBBORN SALMON. • LANDED IN A NOVEL MANNER. • GREAT SPORT. CHARMS ATTENDING THE ANGLER'S LIFE. • BEAUTIFUL THOUGHTS ON ANGLING BY DIFFERENT AUTHORS. • RETROSPECTIVE ANGLING. AT THE THIRD POOL AGAIN. • A NARROW ESCAPE FROM AN ACCI- DENT. • A SOUVENIR. • FRERE RISES A GOOD FISH. • A GRAND BATTLE. • TRIUMPH. • GIVE THE GUIDES A CHANCE. HIRAM

RISES A SALMON AND LANDS IT AFTER A SHORT STRUGGLE. • NO- TIONAL PEOPLE ARE GUIDES. • WILLIAM HAS HIS INNING ALSO. VALEDICTORY.

ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE

VIEW OK THE LITTLE SAGUENAY RIVER, P. <<>., - Frontispiece,

THE THIRD POOL, . 23

SALMON, _ ' - 27

TIME EOR THE LANDING NET (fust.), - - - 31

RESTING A POOL, . 35

THE GUIDES ARE READY, THE SPORTSMAN, WHERE is HE? - 39

IN CAMP, 45

Mic-MAC CAMP, . 49

THERE'S NOTHING LIKE IT, . 55

LADY MACDONALD CASTING THE FLY (Inst.), - . 57

AN EMBRYO ANGLER (Inst.), 61

ISN'T SHE A BEAUTY ! . . 65

A DARK-COLORED SEA TROUT, 67

BEAUTIES, - yr

Mic-MAC INDIANS BUILDING A BIRCH CANOE (Inst.), 75

PORTAGING A CANOE (Inst.), . -7

DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A FRESH-RUN SALMON AND A "SLINK" OR "KELT," 79

As NICE A SEA TROUT AS You EVER WILL TAKE, - - - 87

ALL READY, SIR, 93

CASTING .FROM A CANOE (fnst.), 97

JOHN DANFORTH'S CAMP ON LAKE PARMACHENE, ME., - 101

A CAMP SCENE (Inst.), - 105

GRAND FALLS AND POOL ON THE NEPLSIGUIT RIVER, N. 1!., 109 PABINEAU FALLS ON THE NEPISIGUIT RIVER. LOOKING UP STREAM (Inst.) - m xvi Illustrations.

PAGE

PABINEAU FALLS. LOOKING DOWN STKKAM, 113

A SNAP SHOT AT MIC-MACS (/«.»•/.), 117

IN A Mic-MAC LODGE. SMALL MIC-MAC TAKING A SIESTA, - 121

VIEW ON THE MATAPEDIA RIVER, P. O. XEAR THE UPSALOUITCH, - 125 VIEW OF THE MATAPEDIA VALLKY, LOOKING UP TIIK STREAM ACROSS THE

RESTIGOUCHE RIVER, X. B., 127 VALLEY OF THE RESTIGOUCHE RIVER, N. !>., LOOKING DOWN THE STREAM —

SUGAR LOAF MOUNTAINS IN THE DISTANCE, - 131 A BASS RELIEVO, 133 A LAKE TROUT, 137 A RANGELEY TROUT. NOT HANDSOME, BUT IT WEIGHED II^LHS., - 141 IT'S A Ciooi) ONE, 145 PIONEER STEAMER ON THE SCHOODIC LAKES, ME., 149 FALLS ON A TRIBUTARY OF THE CASCAPEDIA RIVER, P. Q., - 151 VIEW ON THE CASCAPEDIA RIVER, - 153 SALMON FALLS ON THE CASCAPEDIA RIVER, - 155 THIRTY-FIVE SALMON TAKEN BY FOUR RODS IN THREE DAYS ON THE CAS- CAPEDIA RIVER, 159 LORD STANLEY'S FISHING COTTAGE ON THE CASCAPEDIA RIVER, - - 163 LORNE'S FISHING COTTAGE ON THE CASCAPEDIA RIVER, - 167 GOOD MORNING. CAMP OK GUIDES TO A SALMON FISHING PARTY, - - 173 A ROUGH CAMP, INDEED, iSi A LOVELY SPOT FOR A CAST (Just.), - 187 A LARGE FISH FOR A LIGHT ROD, - 199 CASTING THE FLY, 209 JUST Ur, - 215 A LONG CAST (hist.), - - 219 LANDING A SALMON (Inst.), - 225 BIG ROCK POOL, .... 227 THE LOWER POOL, ... 229 THE UPPER POOL (Inst.), . 233 FAMOUS SALMON POOL ON THE MARGAKKF. RIVER, CAPE BRETON, 239 VIEW OF THE UPPER MARGAREE, CAPE BRETON, - 243

Illustrations. xvii

PACK

OLD MILL NEAR PORT MULGRAVE, X. S., - - 245

CAPE BRETON TEAM AND TKAMSTKR (lust.}, ..... 047

LEAVING PORT MULGRAVE, (lust, from Moving Steamer), - - 249

VIEW OK THE STRATI- OK CANSO FROM PORT MUI.GRAYK, X. S., - 251

PORT HAWKSWRY, CAPE BRETON, - - 253

STEAMER MARION ENTERING THK FIRST LOCKS ON ST. PETER'S CANAL (hist.), 255

PASSIM; THROUGH ST. PETER'S CANAL (Inst. from Moving Steamer), - 257

BRAS D'OR END OK ST. PETER'S CANAI. (lust, from Moving Steamer}, . 259

VIEW OK SYDNEY, CAPE BRETON, FROM CEMETERY IIn.i., 261

LONG PIER AT SYDNEY, - .... . 263

AM, THERE is LEKT OK POOR OLD LOUISBOURG, - - - 265

MAIN STREET <>K BADDECK, CAPE BRETON, - - 267

THE STONE JAIL AT BADDECK, 269

APPROACH TO BADDECK HY ROAD, 271

LIGHTHOUSE ON LITTLE XARROWS, LAKE BRAS D'OR, CAPE BRETON (Inst.) 273

"SOLOMON'S CELLAR" POOL, XEAR Ross's FARM, - 275

CELEBRATED PLASTER LEDGE AND POOL ON THE MARGAREE RIVER, C. 1!. 277

POOL ON THE MIDDLE RIVER, CAPE BRETON, - 279

THE VILLAGE OF NORTHEAST MARGAREE, CAPE BRETON, 281

THE HOUSE THAT SHELTERED us AT NORTHEAST MARGAREK, 283

FRENCH FISHING STATION OK CHETTICAMP, ON GULF SHORE, CAPE BRETON, 285

LANDING FOR FISHING BOATS, NEAR CHETTICAMP, 287

REFLECTIONS SPRING NEAR Ross's HOUSE, NORTHEAST MARGAREE, 289

ENOUGH FOR BREAKFAST, ANYWAY (Inst.), 291

WHYKOKOMAGH FROM THE STEAMBOAT WHARF, 293

BAY VIEW HOTEL AT WHYKOKOMAGH, CAPE BRETON, 295

FALLS Two HUNDRED FEET IN HEIGHT ON THE MARGAREE RIVER, 297

FALLS ON THE MARGAREE BELOW CAPE CLEAR, 299

CAPE CLEAR ON MARGAREE RIVER, 301

EEL WEIRS AT OUTLET OK LAKE AINSLEE (Inst. from Moving 11'agon), 303

"BELOW THIS BRIDGE is A LARGE DEEP POOL,' 305

FLAT ROCK POOL ON THE JACQUET RIVER, X. 1!.. 307

WARD'S POOL ON THE JACQUET RIVER, 309 xviii Illustrations.

PAGE

SNAP SHOT AT NEW BRUNSWICK GIRLS ON CLIFF NEAR JACQUET RIVER (hist.}, 313

LEDGE OR WINDMILL POOL ON THE JACQUET RIVER, - 315

REFLECTIONS. OLD BRIDGE AND MILL ox THE JACQI-KT RIVER, - - 319

BARCLAY'S HOTEL, NEAR JACQUET RIVER (lust.), - 325

BEACH AND CLIFF ON BAIE DES CHALEL-RS, NEAR THE JACQUET RIVER, 329 CHILDREN PLAYING ON THE BEACH ox BAIE DES CHALEURS, NEAR JACQUET

HELL GATE POOL ON THE JACQUET RIVER, - - 333

UPPER HORSE SHOE POOL ON THE JACQUET RIVER, 337

TAKING SOLID COMFORT, - - - 341

A HARD POOL TO KILL A SALMON IN, 347 A COMFORTABLE CAMPING PLACE, - .351

SILVERY BEAUTIES, 355

A, RANGELEY GIANT, WEIGHT u^ LI;S., - - 361

FISH TRAPS AND OPERATING HOUSES AT GRAND LAKE STREAM, ME. (lust.), 363

FISH HATCHERY AT GRAND LAKE STREAM, - - 365

TAKING SPAWN AND MILT SIMULTANEOUSLY AT GRAND LAKE STREAM (lust. ), 367

TAKING THE EGGS FROM A SALMON (fust.), - 369

RESTIGOUCHE FISH HATCHERY AT DEERSIDE, P. n., 371

FERTILE AND INFERTILE SALMON EGGS, - . 373

FEMALE SCHOODIC SALMON, AFTER SPAWNING, 375

DON'T You WISH You HAD BEEN THERE? - . 377

A FORTY-EIGHT POUNDER, 37g

STRIPED BASS, . 381

LANDING A SEA TROUT, 383

A "LEAN-TO" CAMP, BUILT OF LOGS, . 3s5

A STRING OF TROUT, - - 387

MENDING THE BIRCH, . . 3gg

FLAT LANDS, RESTIGOUCHE Y ALLEY, - 30!

A HANDSOME STRING OF SEA TROUT, . 303

A THREE-POUND SEA TROUT, - 395

HEADS OF SEA TROUT, - .... 307

YIEW OF QUEBEC FROM LEVIS,' . . ^

Illustrations. xix

PAGE

VIEW OK QUEBEC FROM ST. CHARLES RIVER, - - 401

FISHING PARTY ox LAKE EDWARD, P. Q., (/>:.?(.), - - 403

OUTLET OK LAKE EDWARD — HEAD OF JEANNOT RIVER, ... 405

ON THE JEANNOT RIVER NEAR LAKE EDWARD, .... 407

PIONEER STEAMER PERIBONCA ON LAKE ST. JOHN, P. o., - - - 409

A PAIR WORTH WEIGHING, - - - - 411

WlNNINISH, - - ... 413

A \VlNNINISH, - - - - 415

WINNINISH, GREAT AND SMALL, - - - 417

THE WINNINISH LANDED (//«/.), ...... 4iy

THE MONTAGNAIS INDIANS, LAKE ST. JOHN, P. Q., - - - 421

VIEW OF LAKE ST. JOHN FROM POINT AUX TREMBLES, - 423

PLAYING A WINNINISH ON LAKE ST. JOHN (fust.'), - - 425

OUIATCHOUAN FALLS, NEAR LAKE ST. JOHN, - 427

"A TROPHY, THIS" — RANGELF.Y TROUT, - 429

R. C. LEONARD AT NEW YORK TOURNAMENT CASTING FOR DISTANCE WITH

SALMON ROD, 431

JAMES 1.. BREESE AT NEW YORK TOURNAMENT CASTING FOR ACCURACY WITH

SINGLE-HANDED FLY-ROD, - - 433

W. A. BLACKFORD AT NEW YORK TOURNAMENT CASTING FOR DISTANCE

WITH SINGLE-HANDED FLY-ROD, - 435

R. B. LAWRENCE AT NEW YORK TOURNAMENT CASTING FOR DISTANCE WITH

SINGLE-HANDED Fi.Y-RoD, - 437

DESCENDING RAPIDS IN A BIRCH (//«/.), 439

THE RIVER WAS VERY HIGH, 441

METABETCHOUAN RIVER BELOW THE FALLS, 443

METABETCHOUAN FALLS, P. Q., 445

NAVIGATING ROUGH WATERS IN A DUGOUT (fust.), 447

RED LEDGE POOL, 451

VIEW ON LAKE EDWARD, P. Cj., - 453

CAPTAIN BURCHELL'S TREASURES (lust.) 461

HOTEL ROBERVAL, LAKE ST. JOHN, P. Q., 467

WITH FLY-ROD AND CAMERA.

Chapter I

OUR FIRST NIGHT ON THE RIVER. • How TO SEE A SALMON IN A DEEP POOL. SPEARING AND GILL-NETTING DISCUSSED AND CONDEMNED. • CAPE BRETON SALMON SPEARING. • HARD LUCK. • THE BOY TOLD A STRAIGHT STORY. DESTRUCTION CAUSED BY SEINING. • A STARTLING SPLASH IN THE POOL. FLY-FISHING BY MOONLIGHT FOR TROUT AND SALMON. • THE DELIGHTS OF ANGLING. • THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE TRUE SPORTSMAN AND THE FISH KILLER. • THE MIRAMICHI AND ITS TRIBUTARIES. • SOME FISHERY STA- TISTICS. • CHANGES IN THE LIFE OF THE SALMON. • DID YOU EVER SEE A FEMALE GRILSE? • How TO DRAG A SALMON FLY. • FAVORITE FLIES. HABITS OF THE SALMON. • KELTS ARE UNFIT FOR FOOD.

A NOT HER year had passed away, and again we * ^ were encamped by the side of one of the most picturesque rivers in Canada. Our tent was pitched near the "third pool," and was pleasantly located in a grove of firs, hemlocks and maples, on a little knoll a few feet from the eastern shore of the river, and but two or three rods from the rapids which form the head of the pool.

It was the evening of our first day on the river, and a hearty supper, such as only a fisherman knows how to enjoy, had been disposed of, and we were indulging in that supreme enjoyment which a good cigar, a perfect digestion and such surroundings could give.

We had had a hard day's work in ascending the river, and had found but small sport with the fly, for there are but few good pools below the third, two of them only being considered of enough importance to be named. We had found the water low and clear, and the day was bright ; but in spite of these drawbacks we had made a score of fifteen or twenty nice sea trout and a grilse.

Frere, my comrade on this occasion, was a sportsman in the best sense of the word, a student and lover of nature also, and a scholarly man besides.

He had been with me before on more than one outing, and was a most agreeable and altogether enjoyable companion. We had found the river so low, that in many places our canoe could not possibly be poled up the rapids, loaded as she was so heavily with us, our stores, and our two canoemen or guides, and we had waded a good part of the day.

Of course wading is expected by every fisherman, and in fact it would be a tame day indeed, if a good part of the time were not spent in two feet, more or less, of water.

But after the day's work is done, and the wet clothes are doffed, and warm, dry ones put on for the night, what a feeling of intense satisfaction and rest and utter comfort one enjoys, as he stretches himself out on his thick bed of hemlock boughs, as we did after enjoying our evening meal.

It is my invariable rule on my fishing trips to have a warm, dry change of clothes, in which to pass the night. No matter how much wading one does in the cold, almost icy cold water of the mountain stream, if the change of clothes is at hand, no discomfort follows the exposure.

And after the dry woolens are donned, how one's skin glows, and what a sense of satisfaction is felt as the comrades repose before the camp fire, and while watching the blaze curl about the snapping logs, discuss the events of the day, and fight their battles o'er again.

It was under such conditions as I have described that we enjoyed our first night's outing.

Before us, across the river, looming up against the heavens, was a high, steep, rugged cliff ; behind and around us on all other sides was the forest, which extended almost unbroken for hundreds of miles.

In front of the camp was the fire, and around it in careless attitudes we reclined, together with our two canoemen. For a while neither of us spoke, but gave ourselves entirely to our thoughts and to the goddess Nicotine.

" It's a great pity I lost that salmon in the second pool," at length exclaimed my friend, who had been busily engaged in drying his wading stockings. "He must have been lightly hooked, for I handled him as carefully as I could."

"Yes," I replied, "the hook came back with a jerk. I should think perhaps it struck the bone of the jaw, and not finding enough to hold it, came away at the first turn of the fish."

"'Twas a right neat cast you made that time," said Hiram, the elder of the guides, joining in the conversation. " I think it was about ninety feet ; I saw the fish just foment the fly, a cast or two before he rose. He made an offer at it, but not in real earnest. 'Twas when the fly went beyant and passed fairly over him that he took it."

"I didn't see him until he rose," replied my friend, "or I should have fished differently."

"You wouldn't have done any better, likely as not, if you had seen him," said William, the other guide, " it v/as a fresh-run fish, and took when a good chance came."

"You say you saw him before he rose, Hiram," I exclaimed, "do you mean that you saw the fish away down in the pool, at that distance?"

"Indeed he did," said William, "and so did I; the fish was lying up against a blue rock in the eddy. Hey, Hiram?"

Such keenness of sight seemed almost incredible, but I had witnessed numerous instances of it before, and I saw no reason to doubt their statement in the present instance. The training of the vision of the guides and river men is something absolutely wonderful. Many and many a time have I stood beside a salmon pool, and had my guide count the fish lying in the water, sometimes a dozen at a time, when I positively could not see a fin. It is only in late years that I have learned how to look for a salmon beneath the surface of the water.

It is an accomplishment difficult to acquire, and hard to describe. In the first place, the uneducated observer looks for something whitish in the water, in searching for a salmon, whereas he should look for a

fish grayish in color and with a bluish-green back; for

•

the salmon in its native element almost always shows that color, unless it has been long in the river, and even then it does not lose its bluish back entirely, although it becomes much darker. Again he looks for a large fish, when if he searched for something near what he would expect to be the dimensions of a good-sized trout, he would come nearer the mark.

I can recall a number of instances of seeing what I supposed to be either a large trout or a grilse, but which, on being killed, proved to be a good-sized salmon.

It is to be remembered that the salmon in the pool is covered generally with more water than the observer dreams of; and I have often found a depth of fifteen feet in a pool where I hardly expected three. Such a depth dwarfs the size of the fish to the eye, and it is only by much practice that one learns to look through the water for the fish for which he is searching.

"Oh, yes, I saw the salmon a good bit of time before he took the fly," said Hiram, cutting up a fresh filling of tobacco for his pipe, and rubbing it fine between his hands, "and three more."

"Is that so?" I exclaimed, "Why didn't you speak at the time?" ,

"They were away down the pool beyant the fly," said William, "and two of them were scarred on the back. Hey, Hiram?"

His brother was busily engaged in lighting his pipe with an ember at that moment, and only grunted an assent to William's query ; but at length he answered, "Yes, blast the spearers, they're at it again."

" I noticed some burnt remnants of birch bark on the rocks," quietly remarked Frere, who was still engaged with his wet stockings, "and supposed that the spearers were at their old tricks."

"Yes, they're always at it every right night," said William, as he threw a fresh log on the fire, and arranged the others so as to burn to better advantage, "and they can't be stopped neither, unless there's a man always handy to watch the big pools."

'' It's a pity they can't be stopped in their work in the lower pools," said I. "If they could be headed off there, they would hardly trouble the fish in the upper pools, they are so difficult of access."

"Sure enough," replied William, "and the two lower pools, if let alone, would be the best salmon pools on the river, but the poachers can reach them in three or four hours from the mouth of the river, and they not only spear in them, but they often set gill-nets, and even sweep the pools with seines."

"Too bad, too bad, altogether!" exclaimed Hiram, "they'll spile the river entirely."

In order that their words may be better understood, I will make a brief explanation. Salmon spearing and netting are the two great causes of depletion of Canadian streams ; dipping, that is catching the fish with a large scoop-net in the runs, now being but little practiced. I have visited and fished quite a number of the streams, and found that one, if not both these proscribed methods of capturing the fish, was practiced on almost every one. It is done sub rosa of course, but to the educated observer certain " signs" of the marauders are always apparent.

Salmon spearing is practiced in the following manner: The spear is usually a steel lance, sharply pointed, and fixed in the end of a strong pole. At both sides of this lance are pliable wooden springs. When the fish is struck, the steel pierces its back, and at the same time the springs fly open and clasp the fish and hold it firmly. A dark, cloudy night is chosen, and at a time when the moon is not above the horizon.

The spearer, usually in a dugout or a canoe, but sometimes on a rudely constructed catamaran or raft, is paddled or poled silently by a confederate over the pool.

In the bow of the boat, affixed to a staff, or lying in a pan, is' a roll of blazing birch bark, and its flame lights up the water brilliantly, wherever the rays of the light penetrate. The fish pay no attention to the blaze, or if they do they are attracted by it, for they seem to swim in the circle of light, but not beyond it.

The spearer, standing crouched behind the burning bark, holds his weapon in readiness for a quick thrust, and I am told by those who have seen it done, that the blow is given by a practiced hand with the rapidity of lightning.

The fish is struck, and lifted or flung into the boat with one quick effort, in fact, to use the words of a gentleman who used occasionally to go with the Indians salmon spearing, "The fish was flouncing and flapping in the canoe, even without my seeing the Indians make the blow, so quickly was it struck."

All the fish in a pool may thus be killed by an expert in a short time, and if any by chance escape, as they sometimes do, they are often so cut and gashed by the sharp steel as eventually to die from the injuries received.

After his work is done, the spearer often carelessly throws the scorched remnants of birch bark upon the shore, or casts them into the river, but they are soon landed on a jutting beach, and they appear as a certain evidence of the presence of the despoiler.