William West Skiles : a sketch of missionary life at Valle Crucis in western North Carolina, 1842-1862 ...

Front matter

UNIVERSITY OF

NORTH CAROLINA

ALEXANDER B. ANDREWS

Preface

This brief record of a good man's life, as missionary, has been written in compliance with the expressed wish of that revered Father in God, Bishop Atkinson.

Materials for the volume have been most kindly provided by a number of prominent clergymen, contemporaries of the Rev. Mr. Skiles in the Diocese of North Carolina. Among these may be named the Rev. Dr. Watson, now Bishop Watson of East Carolina, the Rev. Dr. Jarvis Buxton, the Rev. Henry H. Prout, the Rev. Dr. George Wetmore, and the Rev. William Glennie French.

To Mr. George N. Evans, the zealous layman, the faithful friend and fellow-labourer of the Rev. Mr. Skiles, the editor is also largely indebted for many details regarding the daily life of the missionary, and the country over which he travelled.

MEMOIR OF WILLIAM WEST SKILES, Missionary in Western North Carolina.

I

SOME fifty years since, the valley of the Watauga, in North Carolina, was a secluded region, isolated and forgotten, a mountain wilderness, showing only here and there the first rude touches of civilization. The narrow winding trail or foot-path, the rough sled-road, often dangerous for wheels, here and there a log cabin, with a narrow, rough clearing about it, or at long intervals a rude saw-mill or grist-mill, with perchance a small, unpainted frame dwelling, or a blacksmith shop and a humble backwoods store, marking the beginning of a hamlet, such were the only traces of human habitation to be found on the banks of the stream. But the Highland valley was magnifc* ficent in natural beauty. It lay in the elef0 vated countrv between the Blue Ridge and

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6 xMEMOIR OF WILLIAM WEST SKILES.

the Alleghanies, nearly three thousand feet above the sea, while grand old mountains of successive ranges, broken into a hundred peaks, rose to nearly double that height on either hand — many so near that their distinctive features could be clearly seen, while others were only dimly outlined in the distance. These mountain ranges were peculiarly interesting, differing in some particulars from those in other parts of the country. Their vegetation was singularly rich and varied.

About the year 1840, a gentleman from New York, after wandering in the low country of North Carolina, on a botanical excursion, determined to penetrate into the isolated region beyond the Blue Ridge, in quest of rare plants. After leaving the beautiful little village of Lenoir, the road at length followed the bank of the Yadkin, until it reached the Blowing Rock Gap, in a spur of the Blue Ridge. The Blowing Rock Mountain derived its name from a powerful wind rising with increasing force from the depths of a dark canon a thousand feet below, and sweeping over a ledge of rock on the mountain side. The rough track crossed this Blowing Rock at an elevation of two thousand feet above the valley below, winding over heights which were not precipitous, but steep, declivities. The head-springs of the Yadkin, always very cool and refreshing, were passed. The Yadkin, it will be remembered, is the main tributary of the Pedee, flowing into the Atlantic. The head-waters of the John's River, flowing into the Catawba, were also passed, only a quarter of a mile beyond. A little to the northward, on the western declivities of the Blue Ridge, lay the head-springs of the New River, flowing into the Great Kanawha, and thence through the Ohio and the Mississippi, into the Gulf of Mexico. The Blue Ridge is crossed by no stream. It is the dividing range in North Carolina.

Following the Blue Ridge for several miles farther, the track left the mountains where they trend westward and wound downward into the valley of the Watauga, amid an unceasing accompaniment of brooks and cascades. This wealth of clear, bright waters gave a peculiar character to the country; their

8 xMEMOIR OF WILLIAM WEST SKILES.

murmur was ever in the traveller's ear. And the profusion of magnificent flowers, large in size and brilliant in colouring, gave additional charm to the mountain path ; the azaleas, pink, purple, and orange ; the grand rhododendrons, rose and purple ; the laurel, scarlet trumpet flowers, the large yellow honeysuckle, and many others were thronging the undergrowth, cheering the wanderer on the rude highland track. There was something of gloom in the picture, too ; the height of the surrounding mountains, the depth of the valleys and gorges, the dense, darkly coloured forest, covering hill and dale with a sombre green drapery, broken only here and there by very small clearings — all these told of the wilderness. Leaving the open, breezy mountaintops, the wanderer seemed plunging downward into a basin, dark, mysterious, and all but uncanny in its sombre aspect. The remarkable richness and beauty of the vegetation, however, when seen in detail, either on the mountain-side, or in the few cleared acres, relieved the mind from what there might be of gloom in the general aspect. After an abrupt descent of 500 feet, the Watauga was reached at a point called Shull's Mill-pond, 2,917 feet above the sea, about five miles from its source. This wild stream flows from the western face of the Grandfather, the highest mountain of that group of the Blue Ridge, which reaches an elevation of 5,897 feet. The general direction of the stream is northward, the rude mountain road following its winding course ; at one point the track was so narrow that it was dangerous for waggons to attempt passing each other, and this danger continued for a distance of a mile. The country was indeed too thoroughly wild, and too thinly peopled, to allow of the hope of a good road. Only occasionally the traveller passed a small, rude log cabin, with a scant strip of clearing about it.

It was in this wild, and yet luxuriant region, so full of interest to the botanist, that the traveller from New York wandered for a time, gathering treasures for his herbarium, and delighting in the grand beauty of the country. He also became interested in the families living in the rude cabins where he sought shelter.

He found them very poor, ignorant, but simple, honest, and kindly, though very quiet and undemonstrative in manner. They received him hospitably and gave him the best of their mountain fare. And they were anxious for instruction. On his return northward he met Bishop Ives, and spoke warmly of the gratification he had derived from his excursion on the Watauga, and dwelt earnestly on the religious privations of these mountaineers; " An interesting population in great spiritual destitution."

Bishop Ives was at that time the head of the Diocese of North Carolina, and entirely faithful to the doctrines of the Church which had consecrated him to that holy office. He was so much interested in the traveller's report that at his next Visitation of the Diocese he made his way across the Blue Ridge, and on the 20th of July, 1842, he held a service in the valley of the Watauga. In his report to the Convention of the Diocese he spoke particularly of the people :

" While my sympathies were deeply excited in view of their great spiritual destitution, my admiration was at the same

MEMOIR OF WILLIAM WEST SKILES. II

time awakened by the simplicity of their character, and the deep earnestness of their petition for instruction. I addressed a few of them on their wants, and promised to send them, the moment it should be in my power, a Missionary, who should teach them the rudiments of knowledge, and preach to them the Word of God."

A few months later, in December, 1842, the Rev. Henry H. Prout came to fulfil the Bishop's promise. His labours began at the " Lower Settlement," near the point where the Watauga flows into Tennessee. He travelled on horseback or on foot. The paths, or trails, through the grand old forest were often obstructed byfallen timber, over which horse and rider must needs climb as best they could. The streams must be forded. A bridge, even of the rudest kind, was an effort of civilization to be found only in the most favoured spots. The " Lower Settlement " was at that date a scattered hamlet of the rudest kind, but it became the centre of Missionary work. On Mr. Prout's arrival he gave notice that he would hold a service on the following Sunday. This announcement made, the next step — by no means an easy one — required the collecting of a congregation.

The nearest cabins were scattered about, within a distance of a dozen miles, along the banks of the streams, on the mountain sides, or in the deep forest glens. The first of these parochial visits was characteristic of many others. Following the bank of the stream, climbing over fallen timber, or creeping under the great, moss-covered mouldering trunks, the Mission ary came at last to a solitary cabin. It appeared desolate and deserted. At first he thought it uninhabited, but as he drew near he discovered a faint smoke rising from the low chimney, and perceived the smell of beef boiling. He knocked. The door opened, and a wild-looking woman appeared, amazed and bewildered by this civilized visiter. She gave him the usual backwoods salutation: "What mout yer name be?" "What mout be yer business?" He was invited in, however, and made welcome after a rude fashion. A small rough table stood on the earthen floor ; opposite the great yawning stone chimney stood a bench against the wall ; these, with the iron pot on the crane, were the chief furniture of this mountain cabin. The Missionary explained his errand, which excited a sort of dull wonder. The Gospel message was respectfully received, however, and the good man passed on to another cabin, and by the like rough paths. Thus the week was spent, and the blessed Lord's Day came round. The service was held in a cabin at the " Lower Settlement." It was well attended. Men and women came straggling in, many on foot, some on horseback, the wife in sun-bonnet and straight, narrow gown, riding behind her husband.

Here and there a woman was seen mounted on a steer, with a child or two in her arms, while the husband, walking beside them, goad in hand, guided the animal over the rough path. The women all wore sun-bonnets, or handkerchiefs tied over their heads. Some were bare-footed. There were many more feet than shoes in the congregation. The boys and girls, even when full grown, were often bare-footed. This was no doubt the first service of our Church held in that region. And it was declared to be the first religious service of any kind held in the valley of the Watauga for seven years. The simple folk showed themselves interested and grateful. Regular services followed, and as a consequence of the naturally civilizing effect of a reverent and dignified Christian worship, the people began of their own accord to wash and mend their clothing more carefully, to aim at a more respectable appearance in public for themselves and their children. The cabin in which the services were held soon became too small. The school began. A school-house of logs, large enough for the Sunday services, was built. Little improvements appeared, and at the end of several months a visiter, who had known the hamlet earlier, cheered the Missionary's heart by declaring he could not have believed it possible that so great a change for the better could have taken place in so short a time. Those wild pupils became very dear to the servant of God. They tried very hard to learn their lessons well. Occasionally some of the parents would come in, and pore intently over the spelling book. All did their best. Every now and then the lessons ceased, and a simple Hymn was sung, in which all joined, feeling that it was a grand thing to sing the

Lord's Praise. The verse most frequently heard was the Doxology of the saintly Bishop Ken:

" Praise God from whom all blessings flow, Praise Him all creatures here below ; Praise Him above, y' angelic host, Praise Father, Son. and Holy Ghost."

And where, among the English-speaking race, have not those holy words been devoutly sung? Is there one hour in the day when they do not flow from Christian lips, in one quarter of the world or another?

The results of these early labours in Ashe, now Watauga County, were reported by the missionary in 1843, as follows:

" Baptisms, 9 ; Confirmed, 1 ; Marriages, 3 ; Burials, 4.

l< During the past year about fifty children have been instructed in the Catechism. Twenty-five prayer-books have been distributed. A Catechetical Library of 100 volumes, furnished by the Bishop, has been in general circulation.

"H. H. Prout."

Among the Baptisms recorded in this report one had taken place in a log cabin, the only dwelling in a secluded valley remarkable for its wild beauty. The Missionary held a serl6 MEMOIR OF WILLIAM WEST SKILES.

vice in the cabin, where a small congregation had collected. The valley, entirely shut in by forest-clad mountains, was watered by three small, limpid streams, two of them leaping down the hillsides in foaming cascades; the principal stream, formed by the junction, after a short course of about two miles, passing through a narrow gorge, threw itself into the Watauga. The waters rushing over the rocky bed of the stream, and the many lesser brooks leaping down the mountain side, filled the air with an unceasing murmur, now loud and full, then more gentle and subdued. It was this secluded valley which, from the cross-like form of the three streams at their junction, was now to receive the name of Valle Crucis. It will be remembered that there was formerly a valley and a religious house in England of the same name.

In the month of August, 1843, Bishop Ives visited this valley and confirmed one person. He became so much charmed with the country and so much interested in the people that he proposed making this ground the site of important Mission Work for the Diocese. En-

MEMOIR OF WILLIAM WEST SKILES. \J

couraged by the sympathy of several prominent clergymen and laymen, he took the first steps towards organizing the Mission by purchasing a tract of land. The little valley itself contained 125 acres of level land, one-third of which was under cultivation. This was purchased for $1,500. Later additions adapted to grazing, or valuable for timber, amounted in all to 2,000 acres. The prices of the later purchases have not been ascertained. The Bishop proposed making this valley an important centre of work for the entire Diocese, to include a Missionary Station, a Training School for the Ministry, and a Classical and Agricultural School for boys. The latter school was designed to aid the foundation.

When first visited by the Bishop it was thoroughly solitary ground. As an Indian would have said, there was but " one smoke " in the valley. The log cabin of the mountain miller was the only human dwelling, a veryrude little grist-mill and a small tannery the only other buildings. But a change was now at hand. In August, 1844, contracts were made for clearing the land and putting up the necessary buildings, which included a saw-mill, a log kitchen, a dining-room of adobe, a dwelling-house of four rooms of hewn logs, and a frame building with boarded walls, 60x18, containing a school-room on the ground floor, beneath which a basement, walled and floored with brick, was afterwards excavated the whole length of the building, through a cut on the hillside, that was used for the chapel. The storey above the school-room served as a dormitory, with rooms for the teachers at each end. To these buildings others were soon added: a house of adobe 26 x 18, two storeys high, with a cellar below, a large frame barn, with brick basement for stables, a blacksmith's shop, and several log cabins for labourers. These were all scattered about in pleasing positions and near each other. A Bishop's house and a Chapel were also planned. Early in 1845 ^he school opened with thirty boys, the number increasing to fifty cUiring the summer. The Rev. Mr. Thurston was, under the Bishop, head of the Mission and director of the school, in which he was assisted by several well-educated young men, Candidates for the Ministry, of whom there were seven. The household affairs were managed by Mrs. Thurston and two other experienced ladies.

The Mission was expected to cover a circuit of thirty-five miles in the adjoining mountain region.

The first year of the school was far from satisfactory, owing to several causes. The buildings were not finished in time, and at the approach of cold weather the boys were not comfortably lodged. But a greater obstacle arose from the fact that a number of lads had been sent to Valle Crucis by their friends, as to a Reformatory. There were some excellent boys in the school. But the misconduct of others, who knew absolutely nothing of discipline and subordination, proved the source of very serious trouble. It became necessary to resort to expulsion, in some cases. The misconduct of those unruly ones had even a bad effect on the neighbouring Missions ; the opponents of the Church were not slow to tell the Missionaries that this misconduct was the natural result of Church teaching ! A number of the boys were recalled by their friends. The ladies lost courage, and withdrew one after another. And, at length, the Rev. Mr. Thurston died, after a short illness, of an inflammatory fever brought from the low country.

But improvement was at hand. The school opened anew under the charge of Mr. Jarvis Buxton, a Candidate for Holy Orders, with good results. The young theological students pursued their studies with courage and devotion. The Missionary work was carried on by the Rev. Mr. Prout, with diligent fidelity.

II

At this period an experienced farmer, to take charge of the agricultural department, was required. To fill this position, a middle-aged man came to Valle Crucis from the low country of North Carolina.

William West Skiles was born October 12, 1807, at Hertford, Perquimons County, N. C. He attended as a child the common school of that neighbourhood, and it is said that his boyhood was highly honourable, earning at that early day an excellent reputation for honesty, industry, and a strong sense of duty. As a young man he was much esteemed and liked for kindly and attractive qualities. He looked forward to work as a mechanic, and for some years filled most worthily the position of overseer of extensive lumber-mills near Plymouth. Thence, in 1844, at the age of thirty-seven, he came to Valle Crucis, where his personal character soon made a strong impression on all who knew him. Simple, earnest, and peculiarly kindly in countenance and manner, there was something winning about him which attracted a warm regard from his companions, while his uprightness, sound practical judgment, his skill and experience, soon placed him at the head of the working department. Gradually, as his efficiency and fidelity became more and more apparent, one duty after another was allotted to him, until the labours of head farmer, store-keeper, postmaster, treasurer, and general superintendent devolved upon him. The religious tone of the institution, devout and earnest, produced a deep impression on this practical business man. He had been in the family but a short time when he expressed to the clergyman in charge his desire to serve his Lord and Master more fully than he had yet done, by devoting his life to the sacred ministry. There was no difficulty in procuring the necessary testimonials in behalf of a man of his most worthy moral character, and he began almost immediately the necessary studies. The name of William W. Skiles appears as a Candidate for Deacon's

Orders in the Report of the Standing Committee of the Diocese for 1845. He was at that time about thirty-eight years old, according to a record found in an old book. He was thus one of the first to profit by the Canon of the General Convention, allowing the admission of Deacons without classical education. A plain English education was all he had received, and he made no attempt to acquire the ancient languages.

During the first two years of his life at Valle Crucis the time of William Skiles was divided between the daily work connected with his position as General Superintendent and his preparation for the sacred ministry. With teaching and Mission work he had, during those years, nothing to do. But every other department of the work at Valle Crucis was more or less closely under his supervision. Remarkable for discretion, practical, patient, and methodical, he would seem to have found time to attend to many varied duties at the right moment and in the right way. His personal character inspired entire confidence in his fidelity and uprightness, while the gen ial kindliness of his nature soon added affectionate regard to the respect with which all looked up to him. By many years older than the young men connected with the Mission, he was constantly consulted by them on practical points, and his advice never failed to have great weight with his young associates. " We considered him as our Nestor," says one, now a prominent clergyman of the Church. His slightly stooping figure and partially bald head gave him the appearance of greater age than he could actually claim. He was generally believed to be nearly fifty when he came to Valle Crucis, but the date of his birth has been recently found in an old memorandum book, by Mr. George Evans, and that date is October 12, 1807.

He lived at that time in the upper room of the office, or library. In the long summer mornings, after his own private devotions, he was often afield before the sun rose, attending to some especial duty. Perchance he gave an eye to the hayfield or the crops, or he looked after the lumber at the saw-mill, or after the cattle, in which he felt an especial interest. Bishop Ives had purchased in Pennsylvania valuable stock, which he sent to Valle Crucis at a great expense. This was, of course, under the care of Mr. Skiles. That portion of the valley selected for the Mission farm was level and easily cultivated, although the soil was not rich. The crops were wheat, and all the smaller grains, including buckwheat, with clover and grasses. Maize was an uncertain crop, although the small rare-ripe kind was usually planted. It was a very fine grazing country, and the herds of the Mission family fared well, not only in the meadows of the valley, but also in the natural pastures to be found in many places on the mountains, even to their very summits. None but hardy vegetables were cultivated in the gardens, as the summers were too short for the more tender kinds. But the hardy sorts were of remarkably good quality ; the cabbages were very fine, so large and sound, and so choice in flavour ; in fact, they were quite remarkable, and the Mission family would seem to have indulged in a certain pride in those magnificent vegetables, which might have sat for their portraits to some Dutch artist. Peaches were raised in the valley, and the common cherry was abundant in the neighbourhood. The apples were remarkably fine, as they are said to be in all that mountain region. It was with something more than the feeling of a common farmer that William Skiles walked about the fields entrusted to his care ; not only was he naturally desirous that the harvest of grain, fruit, and vegetables^ should turn out well, but the actual well-being of the Mission family, their daily bread, in fact, depended very much upon the yield of the farm.

As the sun appeared above the eastern hills a bugle was heard calling the family to early prayers. All turned their steps towards the brick basement Chapel, plain and unadorned, where the services were devoutly performed. It was usually, at that date, one of the Divinity students who officiated in the Chapel. Since the death of the Rev. Mr. Thurston there had been no rector at Valle Crucis. And there, among others, was William Skiles, sure to be in his place, on his knees, in the House of Prayer, whatever may have been the urgent work on the farm. Among many youthful heads, more attractive, perchance, in form and feature, the half-bald head and plain face of the middle-aged yeoman commanded respect and sympathy from their expression of simple, earnest devotion and natural goodness, if we may use the words. In his countenance there was always the strength of good sense, blended with a glow of kindly feeling. The service over, prayer and praise devoutly offered, the family band of worshippers went down the slope of the hill to the long shed room in the rear of the log house, called the Bishop's House, where they breakfasted. The meals were always simple, chiefly from the produce of the farm, excepting when trout and Venison were brought in.

After breakfast the time of the Steward was again given to the varied details of his business. Perchance a rustic customer appeared at the little store " to trade." Or a load of goods, brought with great toil over the mountain roads from Morganton or Lenoir, must needs be looked over. These goods, brought from the east side of the Blue Ridge, appeared but seldom, however, and the amount was small ; tea, coffee, sugar, mustard, pepper, salt, farm tools, nails, screws, etc.; a few packages of the more common medicines for the dispensary, boots and shoes, school-books, paper, pens, ink, with a very modest supply of general stationery ; needles, pins, thread, tape, buttons, with perchance a few pieces of calico, flannels, and shirting, such were the usual contents of the invoice directed to William Skiles. Every primitive country " store " contains an odd medley, but the shelves at Valle Crucis, with their post-office pigeon-holes, their medical and literary corners, could show even a wider range than usual. But limited indeed was the space allotted to each department ; the entire building was a mere box.

Occasionally there were sales of cattle or sheep to be made, or it might be produce or lumber. Here again was work for the steward. The perfect honesty, the open uprightness of his dealings with the country people on these occasions was frequently remarked, and soon obtained for him their unqualified confidence, their sincere respect.

All the funds of the institution passed through his trustworthy hands, as he was the General Treasurer also. Of course, close attention to the accounts occupied a portion of his time. But this duty was usually attended to in the afternoon or evening. Dinner took place at noon. In the afternoon, at five, there were evening prayers, from which the good yeoman student was never absent, unless from necessity.

In spite of his numerous secular occupations, the most important part of his duties, the preparation for the sacred ministry, was never neglected. It was in the library, or office, where he slept, that his studies were chiefly carried on during the evening hours, blended, we may be sure, with much earnest prayer. There was a regular course of lectures, also, for the divinity students, which he attended faithfully. He was appointed a warden of the parish of the Church of the Holy Cross soon after Mr. Thurston's death. The Report for 1846 was prepared by him :

"Communicants ten, four having been added during the year, while five have removed. Daily Morning Prayer has been read in the Chapel, and constant instruction in the Bible and Catechism given to the youth connected with the establishment. The sudden death of the rector of the parish, the Rev. Mr. Thurston, whose place has not been supplied, has proved a drawback to its prosperity. We need a minister who can devote his whole time to our spiritual needs."

But although there was no regular rector, the religious services were carried on with fidelity. There was a short Chapel service at sunrise, another at noon, and also the regular Morning and Evening Prayers daily. These services were well attended. The Chaplain, the Rev. Mr. Prout, officiated three Sundays in the month in the basement Chapel. He also administered the Holy Communion every month. The services at all the Church Festivals and Fasts were also performed by Mr. Prout. His Mission work beyond Valle Crucis was at the same time carried on with encouraging results. There were many prejudices to overcome, and, as usual, in some instances those prejudices were intensely bitter. The opposition to primitive Church government, with its ancient orders of the Ministry, Bishops, Priests, and Deacons, was found to be very strong. And, as usual at that day, the use of a Liturgy was considered by many as entirely inconsistent with sincere devotion. Ignorance was, of course, the foundation of those prejudices. In fact, it may be said that all religious prejudice, with its legion of evil consequences, can be traced to a combination of individual pride and ignorance. Pride fosters the ignorance. It is quite remarkable what a change has come over the Christian community in America as regards many of the peculiar practices of our Church during the last half-century ; much is borrowed to-day from the same Liturgy which very worthy people of the past generation considered merely an utterly lifeless form. And the ministers of different religious societies at the present hour are claiming the title of Bishop, which their fathers considered a most arrogant usurpation.