Travels in Brazil in the years 1815, 1816, 1817

Front matter

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CHAP. III. JOURNEY FROM Rio pE JANEIRO TO CAPE FRIO

Praya Grande. St. Gonzalves. River Guajintibo. Serra de Inua. Lake and Freguesia de Marica. Gurapina. Ponta Negra. Sagoarema. Lake Araruama. St. Pedro dos Indios, ee. Cape Lrid: sy stess cess cases eussceescseees da¥ey pavarcas soe ivedeaesssqpas-0es0, 4960ssie OL — 90 al CONTENTS.

CHAP. IV. JOURNEY FROM CAPE FRIO TO VILLA DE Str

SALVADOR DOs GOAYTACASES.

CAMPOS DOS

Campos Novos. River and Town of St. Jodo.

River and Town of Macahe.

Barganza.

Rio das Ostras.

Paulista. Coral de Battuba.

Fazenda of Tapebucu.

Barra do Furado. River

Abbey of St. Bento. Town of St. Salvador, on the River Paraiba ....'74—99

Chap. V

STAY AT VILLA DE ST. SALVADOR, AND VISIT TO THE PuRIS AT St. FIDELIS. Villa de St. Salvador.

Ride to St. Fidelis. The Coroados Indians.

The Puris 100—127

Chap. VI

JOURNEY FROM VILLA DE ST. SALVADOR TO THE RIVER ESPIRITO SANTO. Muribecca.

The Hostilities of the Puris.

Quartel das Barreiras.

Nova de Benevente, on the Iritiba.

Chap. VII

Sray AT CAPITANIA, AND JOURNEY TO THE Rio DOCE. Villa Velha do Espirito Santo.

Cidade de Victoria. Barra de Juci. Aragatiba. Coroaba. Villa Nova de Almeida. Quartel do Riacho. Rio Doce. Linhares. The Botocudos, as inveterate Enemies .......cccccceesreee soevsesceeeenee secseesenwis is canetsewe 156—186

CHAP. VII.

JOURNEY FROM THE Rio Docre TO CARAVELLAS, TO THE RIVER ALCOBAGA, AND BACK TO Morro D’ARARA, ON THE MUCURI.

Quartel de Juparanan da Praya. River and Barra of St. Matthew. Mucuri. Villa Vigoza. Caravellas. Ponte do Gentio, on the River Alcobaga.

CONTENTS. Vii

CHAP. IX. Stay AT Morro p’ARARA, Mutucuri, VicozA, AND CARAVELLAS

Description of our Abode at Morro d’Arara. Hunting Excursions. The Mundeos. Stay at Mucuri, Vicoza, and Caravellas .......secccscssescescesensessscssess i eataniseacls sevens 220-—240

Chap. X. Journey From Caravellas To The Rio Grande De Brlmonte

River and Town of Alcobaca. River and Town do Prado. The Patachos. The Machacalis. Comechatiba. Rio do Frade. Trancozo. Porto Seguro. Santa Cruz. Mogiquicaba. Belmonte ..... Be OOO CEOCOCE OC ROCCOOORCCLE eT ECT i oenaeeeeeaeteeNe See Seeeaenees 241—278

Chap. XI

STAY ON THE RIO GRANDE DE BELMONTE, AND AMONG THE Borocupos.

Quartel dos Arcos. The Botocudos. Journey to the Quartel do Salto. Return to the Quartel dos Arcos. Combat of the Botocudos. Journey to Caravellas. The Machacalis on the Rio do Prado. Return to Belmonte ........ ay b Suiinn sueuiobewt acewaniaeeoe sovveee, 249—S335

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PLATES

WEHRICH ILLUSTRATE THIS VOLUME.

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AFTER ARROWSMITH.

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Evvplanatory Notice respecting the Map of the East Coast of Brazil, between the 15th and 23d Degree of South Latitude.

As there are none but very incomplete maps of the east coast of Brazil in the hands of the Public, and it was impossible in my situation to lay down a new one founded on astronomical observations, I selected the best that I was acquainted with, by Arrowsmith, and made it my groundwork. It is enlarged one third: some of the principal points and mouths of rivers, as the bay of Rio de Janeiro, the mouth of the Paraiba, the Espirito Santo, the Rio Doce, the Rio Grande de Belmonte, and the Rio Pardo, have been left as they were, since it is to be presumed that the mouths of these more considerable rivers have been accurately determined upon astronomical principles. On the other hand I have endeavoured to ‘correct the positions of all the smaller streams and places lying between them, according to the number of leagues which they are distant from each other. Hence considerable deviations will be discovered from the English map: in the latter, rivers are marked which do not exist, and others are omitted: the many false names with which the old maps abound, and of which no trace is to be found in the country, have moreover been erased. In this map, | have marked my course along the coast and up the rivers with a fine line, and have endeavoured to denote with colours the boundaries of the different tribes of the Tapuyas: the coloured stripes farther inland intimating the connection of these same tribes. The signification of the colours is stated in the map. For the complete illustration of these coloured boundaries of the abodes of the different tribes, it will be necessary, when they are mentioned in the text, to refer to the map. The course of the Mucuri has been altered agreeably to the

b xX NOTICE OF THE MAP.

information of Colonel Bento Lourenzo, and his new road through the forests is delineated on it. A mere glance at this exposition of the Portuguese settlements on the east coast will suffice to show how thinly this tract is peopled, especially when it is considered that none of the mouths of the rivers which here disembogue themselves into the ocean is inhabited more than one or two days’ journey upwards by Portuguese and their Brazilian descendants. The Portuguese government has commenced an accurate survey of the east coast; and we should acquire a thorough knowledge of this part of South America, should it be pleased to communicate to the world the result of these useful geographical labours.

SQMIS YLLID“T a7 *

TRAVELS

Introduction

DurinG a long series of eventful years, an almost uninterrupted ‘succession of wars, unparalleled in the modern history of Europe, had thrown numerous obstacles in the way of every attempt to extend the domain of Natural Science and Geography, by travels into remote quarters of the globe. England, which was less affected by these obstacles, furnished us, almost exclusively, with some additions to this branch of scientific research. Among the many other pleasing prospects now opened to us by the happy restoration of peace to the nations of the world, is that of seeing men, animated by an ardent desire for new discoveries in the various kingdoms of Nature, successfully undertake extensive voyages and travels, and communicate those ample treasures, which they cannot fail to collect, to their countrymen, whom circumstances, inclination, or necessity, confine to their native soil. May a long continuance of this peace, so ardently wished, and so dearly earned, insure to us these cheering prospects ! B

The eyes of naturalists were long directed with peculiar eagerness to Brazil, that happily situated country, which promised such an ample harvest to gratify curiosity, but which had hitherto been so carefully closed against every inquirer.

Our information respecting this early discovered and highly interesting region was confined to the reports of some early travellers, the communications of Spanish and Portuguese navigators, the more satisfactory accounts given by the Jesuits; and the observations of Marcgraf and Piso. Within a short period, however, very favourable changes have taken place in those circumstances which formerly impeded researches into the state of Brazil. Amongst others, the aspect of affairs in Europe induced the Monarch to transfer his residence to a country, which had not been yet seen by its sovereign, though it was the principal source of his riches.

This emigration of the Sovereign and his Court could not fail to have a great and beneficial influence on the country. The oppressive system of mysterious exclusion was abolished ; confidence took the place of timid distrust, and foreign travellers were allowed access to this field of new discoveries. The liberal sentiments of a wise King, seconded by an enlightened Ministry, not only gave admission to strangers, but even promoted their researches in the most liberal manner. Thus Mr. Mawe obtained leave to examine those rich diamond mines, to which no foreigner had till then been allowed to penetrate ; and traversed a part of the province of Minas Geraés, with a view to the study of its mineralogy. Some German travellers have since visited that province. Lieutenant-colonel Von Eschwege, of the Royal Corps of Engineers at Villa Rica, has been enabled, by several years’ residence in Brazil, to publish some interesting essays; and we may reasonably expect many important discoveries from this gentleman, who possesses such an ample fund of solid knowledge. He measured the higher chains of the mountains of Minas, sketched their profile, and examined, during his mineralogical journeys, the various productions of those lofty ridges, where among other things he has lately discovered sulphureous springs. He promotes with the greatest courtesy the objects of foreign travellers by his advice and assistance. Some other Germans, animated with equal zeal, have repaired to that country; and they too cannot fail of meeting with ample materials for observation. Being recommended to the King by that patron of the sciences, his minister, the Count da Barca, they not only obtained permission to travel through the different capitanias of the monarchy, but they were also most generously aided in their views, by the allotment of acertain annual sum for the prosecution of their researches, and by passports accompanied with the most emphatic letters of recommendation to the captains-general of the several provinces. What a contrast is there between the liberal policy of the present government, and the ancient system, when the traveller, upon his landing in Brazil, was surrounded with soldiers, and cautiously watched! In the name of my countrymen, and of all other European travellers, I cannot do less than thus publicly express my gratitude towards a Monarch who has adopted measures equally wise and popular. Such a favourable reception and friendly treatment are inexpressibly gratifying to the wanderer remote from his native country, and will certainly be attended with incalculable advantage to the sciences, in which the whole civilized world will participate.

Whoever would travel through the interior of this vast continent so as to derive any considerable benefit from his researches, must make up his mind to devote several years to this object, and arrange his plan accordingly. Thus, for example, two years are not sufficient to penetrate to Goyaz and Cuiaba only ; what time, therefore, would it require to travel across Brazil, to the frontiers of Paraguay, to the banks of the Uruguay, to the remote boundaries of Matto Grosso, where a marble pyramid, executed at Lisbon, marks the limits, at the mouth of the Jauru?

The province of Minas Geraés had been already visited by Mawe and Eschwege, and was thus, if not entirely, yet in a great degree, known. On my arrival in Brazil, therefore, I thought it best to select the East coast, which was still quite unknown, or at least not described. Several tribes of the aboriginal inhabitants yet live there in their primitive state, undisturbed by the Europeans, who are gradually spreading themselves in all directions.

The lofty and naked ridge of Middle Brazil, in the provinces of Minas Geraés, Goyaz, and Pernambuco, is divided from the East coast by a broad tract of high forests, which extend from Rio Janeiro to the environs of the Bay of All Saints, about 11 degrees of latitude, and which are not yet taken possession of by the Portuguese settlers ; for only a few roads have been hitherto opened, with infinite labour, along the rivers that traverse them. In these forests, where the primitive inhabitants, who are pressed upon at every other point, have till now enjoyed a secure and peaceful abode, we may still find those people in their original state. ‘Such a country, therefore, could not fail to be particularly attractive to a traveller, who did not intend to pass many years in this hot climate.

The tribes of aboriginal inhabitants, who people these forests, are unknown to us in Europe (Portugal, perhaps, excepted), even by name. The Jesuits, particularly Vasconcellos*, divided all the savage tribes inhabiting the coast and forests, into two classes ; namely, such as dwelt on the coasts, and were brought by the Portuguese, especially the Jesuits, something nearer to European civilisation, whom they styled Indianos mansos, or tame Indians ; and such as inhabited the

~ woods and deserts of the interior, rude unknown barbarians, whom they call Tapuyas ; it is the latter that still exist in a state of nature, and well deserve to be better known. Though we had some few notices of these tracts of continuous forests on the coasts, in the writings of the Jesuits and several old travellers, yet all their accounts were extremely imperfect, and disfigured by a mixture of fable; neither do they give us any information respecting the natural history of the country. We knew, therefore, little or nothing of the. original inhabitants still living here in a savage state, much less of the animate or inanimate creation in these regions, which, nevertheless, afford an infinite diversity of new and remarkable objects, particularly for the botanist and the entomologist. But the traveller must be prepared before-hand to encounter numerous and severe hardships; for instance, want of provisions, of pasture for the beasts, difficulties in conveying his collections of natural history, continued rains, damps, and other inconveniences.

The circumstance, however, which is most disagreeable to the traveller in Brazil, is indisputably the total want of good maps. Arrowsmith’s is full of errors ; nay, considerable rivers on the East coast are omitted ; on the contrary, others are marked, where none exist ; and thus the best map of Brazil that we at present possess is almost useless to the traveller. In order to supply this deficiency, the Portuguese government has lately given orders for an accurate survey of the whole coast, pointing out exactly all the dangers that threaten the navigator. This useful work is already begun, and two able naval officers, Captain José da Trinidade and Antonio Sylveira de Araujo, have surveyed the coast of Mucuri, 8. Matthew, Vicoza, Caravellas, to Porto Seguro and Santa Cruz.

I am also indebted to the liberality and enlightened policy of the Portuguese government, for being able to communicate to my countrymen this account of a journey along the East coast, from the 23d to the 13th degree of south latitude. Two Germans, Messrs. Freyreiss and Sellow, who intend to travel several years in the Brazils, have found a generous patron in His Majesty the King of Portugal ; it is scarcely possible for any foreigner to be better qualified than they to penetrate into this country, since they are acquainted with the language and manners, and have also prepared themselves by several years spent in travelling. I made a part of my tour in the company of these gentlemen, and received much interesting information from Mr. Freyreiss, for which I beg leave to take this opportunity of returning him my thanks. He will communicate to me accounts of his future travels, as well as his discoveries in natural history, which I shall feel happy to lay before the friends of such inquiries. The present narrative must therefore be considered as the precursor only of more interesting observations: further details and additional researches will supply the deficiencies which occur in the course of the work. I am fully sensible, how hazardous it is to venture on publishing these remarks, made during a journey in a portion of South America, after the appearance of the work of our enlightened countryman Alexander von Humboldt! Yet good intentions, though accompanied by inferior abilities, are not undeserving of notice; and however little I can pretend to furnish any thing perfect, still I presume to hope that the lovers of the study of natural history, geography, manners, and customs, will find in my communications some contributions not wholly unimportant to the interests of science and humanity.

Chapter I. Voyage From England To Rio De Janeiro

Brazit, to which many travellers have for some years past directed their attention, has the advantage of being separated from Europe by one of the less stormy seas. There are indeed some months, especially about the time of the equinoxes, when this immense ocean is subject to frequent tempests; yet they are not, upon the whole, so dangerous in these regions as in other parts; as for example, in the neighbourhood of the Cape of Good Hope and Cape Horn.

I left London at the season when tempests have usually abated of their violence, and we therefore looked forward with confidence to a tranquil and pleasant voyage. Our vessel, the Janus, of three hundred and twenty tons, left the Thames in the finest weather ; and we placed the greater faith in the prognostics of our crew, on seeing the evening sky tinged with the most beautiful red. We reached the mouth of the Thames with a fresh breeze ; but it died away towards evening, and we were obliged to come to an anchor.

The first days of a voyage are commonly spent in making arrangements on board, and contemplating the new objects that present themselves to view; consequently they pass away very quickly. At day-break on the second morning after our departure, we had every prospect of a favourable voyage. Large three-masted ships pursued the same course with us; East-Indiamen and coasters glided calmly over the green mirror: but towards noon the wind changed and became contrary. Having passed Margate, and doubled the North Foreland, with its steep white coast, we anchored towards evening in the Downs. The coast of the Channel is in this part entirely open ; there being neither bay, nor eminence, to protect the mariner in stormy seasons. The number of ships lying off Deal was very considerable ; the largest East-Indiamen, and several ships of war, anchored at the same time with us.

Being detained several days in the roads by contrary winds, the captain made use of this opportunity to take in some fresh meat, vegetables, and live stock, for the passage. In a few days, the wind becoming more favourable, we weighed anchor, and proceeded round the South Foreland, accompanied by the Albatross brig. Our hopes were, however, soon disappointed ; for a change of weather obliged us once more to bear up for our former anchorage off Deal. The wind now increased so much that it was necessary to have a strong watch on deck during the night.

The stormy weather continued, with different degrees of violence, for some days, and gave those among us who were for the first time on this fickle element no very agreeable specimen of the pleasures of a sea-faring life. One afternoon, when the wind seemed to be rather more favourable, a man of war gave the signal, upon which the whole fleet weighed anchor. At dusk, a new danger threatened us: many of the ships sailed so near to each other, and were so crowded together, that the greatest care was necessary to prevent mutual injury. At midnight we were exposed to a still greater danger, which we, however, had the good fortune to escape. A very large ship, under full sail, came towards us with the rapidity of an arrow, and was not perceived by our watch on deck, on account of the darkness, till she was passing close by our side.

TO RIO DE JANEIRO. fe)

The violence of the wind increased, and when the morning came the scene was much changed: the sky was, indeed, free from clouds, but gloomy, and as if involved in smoke, and though the sun shone, the storm raged with redoubled fury. Our ship, which lay quite on one side, contended with a few sails against the wind; and about ten in the morning we were off the light-house of Dungeness. All the passengers were sick in the cabin, where a melancholy silence was interrupted only by the howling of the storm among the rigging, and by the dreadful roaring and dashing of the agitated waves. The captain, who exerted all his efforts to continue the voyage, was at length compelled to tack about, and again to direct his course to Deal. The violence of the storm now acted favourably on our vessel; for with only a few small sails set, we flew with such rapidity, that in a short time we traversed the same distance which we had spent the whole night in advancing. A brig, which sailed in company with us, was constantly covered with the waves, while we, being on board a higher-built vessel, remained pretty dry.

We arrived off Deal, but we sailed with such rapidity, that in order to avoid running on shore, we were obliged to cast anchor with all possible speed; this however could not be done without much trouble, for the violent friction of the cable, as it was veered out, produced such a heat that it began to smoke, and would certainly have caught fire, had it not been cooled by the water, which the sailors poured upon it in torrents. At length the enormous anchor reached the bottom, and we saw ourselves happily delivered from this danger. Our ship, which was one of the best and strongest built, had fortunately good new cables and excellent tackling. The number of vessels that we found at anchor here, consoled us in some measure for our loss of time ; all the larger ships had struck their topmasts and yards, as a security against the storm, and the men of war had thrown out two anchors.

We had now indeed escaped the most imminent danger, but confined to our narrow prison, which was still dreadfully tossed by the billows, we led for some#time a very dull life, and therefore felt doubly happy when the fury of the waves at length abated, and we were able cheerfully to proceed towards our destination. We passed Dungeness, and saw the fine cliffs of Beachy Head, a promontory in Sussex, between the towns of Hastings and Shoreham, where, in 1690, the French fleet defeated the combined squadrons of England and Holland ; at noon we saw also the town of Brighthelmstone, or Brighton, 56 English miles from London, so celebrated for its seabathing; and in the evening found ourselves in sight of the Isle of Wight. The sea was calm and unruffled; the moon shone with unclouded lustre ; cheerfulness returned among our crew; the violin of the sailors was again heard, and the young people forgot, in the lively pleasures of the dance, the fears and the dangers to which they had been exposed.

On the 20th of May, in the morning, we left St. Catharine’s Point, in the Isle of Wight, and sailed thence past Portland Point, in Dorsetshire, where the fine stone is procured which is used for building in London. In the next night another storm of such violence arose, that the ship was obliged to tack, to avoid being dashed on the rocky coast of England, in doing which one of our sails was rent by the wind. The following evening, the sea running very high, and the wind being rather contrary, we took refuge in the safe harbour of Torbay. This bay is spacious, and finely bounded by rocky hills. Portland Point projects on the north side, and Start Point on the south. Here we designed to wait for better weather, and to repose after the fatigues we had endured: but two ships bound to the same quarter as ourselves made signals to us to sail in company with them ; we were therefore obliged to give up the repose we had hoped for, and to take to sea with us, the letters which we had written to our friends at home. Towards evening we doubled the Start Point. Lofty, jagged, perpendicular rocks, form a rude promontory, the flat summit of which, like the whole coast of Devonshire, is clothed with beautiful verdure. The hills partly appeared of a yellow colour, from the blossoms of the Ulex (furze), which strike the eye at a great distance. This plant is very common in England and France. Above the surface of the sea project small rocky islands, against which the waves break in white foam, a sight which was the more pleasing to-day, as it was illumined by the soft light of the setting sun. Our ship, sometimes lifted up by the violently agitated sea, at others seeming as if sinking into the abyss, now hastened towards the ocean. When the next morning dawned, we saw Pendennis Castle, near Falmouth, at a distance, and left the Channel at Cape Lizard, which is distinguished by its two white hghthouses.

The coasts of Devonshire and Cornwall have not the white colour of the North and South Foreland, but are of a reddish hue. Falmouth, in Cornwall, is a small, but important harbour, because the packets sail from it for all parts of the world: at the beginning of every month ships are to be found here bound for Lisbon, Brazil, the West Indies, North America, India, &c.

We had thus at length reached the immense ocean. We wholly lost sight of land: the last point of England, the Land’s End, disappeared from our view about noon on the 22d of May. From this time all amusement derived from the observation of surrounding objects ceases. Nothing is to be seen but sea and sky, with which we soon become pretty well acquainted. We now seek employment in writing or reading, and happy are they who have provided themselves with a sufficient stock of good books.

In ten days, during which we had generally fine weather, and met with nothing particular, we reached Madeira. During the passage we often amused ourselves with our lines, and other fishing-tackle, but the only fish we caught was the grey gurnard (Trigla Gurnardus), a good eatable fish. Shoals of porpoises (Delphinus Phocena, Linn.) frequently accompanied our vessel, especially when the sea was rather rough; we fired at them, but had not the good fortune to kill one. Among the frequent attendants of the ship was also the little stormy petrel (Procellaria pelagica), which is called by the Portuguese Alma de Mestre. The sailors consider it as a sign of an approaching storm when these birds appear in considerable numbers about the ship, and are therefore very sorry to see them. A king’s cutter gave us the information that England had declared war against France; and our sailors were called upon deck, but not one of them was taken for His Majesty’s service. The news we had received threw us into considerable alarm, on perceiving a ship from the Spanish coast, making directly towards us. Our apprehensions were, however, of short duration, as we soon recognised her to be an English vessel. She took charge of our letters for Europe.

On the Ist of June, about noon, we descried towards the south a high land, and lofty mountains, indistinctly in the distance; it was the large and beautiful island of Madeira. At six in the evening we were off its western point, Ponta Pargo, and doubled it with a brisk gale. Great numbers of petrels, gulls, and other water-fowl, gave animation to the surface of the ocean. The view of Madeira is beautiful: the island appeared to us as a simple rock, the summit of which was on this day hid in the clouds. On all sides the ascent is steep, of a blackish colour, with deep ravines and clefts ; but the vine every where spreads its verdant branches, and between them glitter the white dwellings and country houses of the inhabitants. On the ridges of the eminences which were not veiled in clouds, appeared green pastures, as on the Alps; and lofty dark groupes of trees overshadowed the little habitations. This fine island enjoys a remarkably happy climate, in which the productions both of the torrid and the temperate

Q

TO RIO DE JANEIRO. ilk zone equally thrive; great heat is here united with much moisture ; and there must be frequent rains, for the torrents which descend from time to time have worn deep ravines and clefts in the steep sides of the rocks. Eighty thousand inhabitants subsist here, chiefly by the production of the wine so generally esteemed, as well as of many fine fruits, oranges, bananas, lemons, &c.

As it was not our intention to visit Funchal, the capital of Madeira, we did not bring-to, but sailed on with a fresh breeze, and soon lost sight of the island. A favourable trade-wind carried us with great rapidity towards the tropic, without any particular circumstance occurring to disturb us. Flying fish, shining like silver, rose in great numbers, and darted past our ship. The nearer you approach to the equator the more numerous are these fish; before you reach the tropic they are seldom seen.

On the 6th of June, we crossed the tropic of Cancer, and henceforward derived some amusement from observing several kinds of Mollusce. In 22°17’ north latitude, we saw the first Piysalis, an extremely singular A/ollusca*, which becomes more and more frequent as you advance towards the equator, so that farther south many hundreds may often be observed in one day. This singular animal has already been mentioned by many navigators; and it was therefore very interesting to me, to be able to examine it more closely. The larger portion of the animal, which appears above water, is a bladder filled with air, which seems merely to serve to keep the upper part afloat; on the under part are eight or nine bunches of long fleshy fibres, which grow out of short thick trunks, and here, at the base of the bladder, form one mass. In this part resides the life of the animal; the fibres are sensible (but not the bladder), extend, contract, seize

* See the account of this animal by M. Tilesius, in the third volume of Krusenstern’s Voyage round the World.

the prey, and are covered with a number of suckers and protuberances. The bladder appears to be unchangeable ; I have not been able to discover any canals leading into it; it does not shrink on the death of the animal, and even in spirits of wine it retains its shape. Its power of motion is but small; it can bend itself into the shape of a crescent, and also turn its two ends up and down. By these motions it rights itself, when a wave has upset it. The bladder may be touched without any painful sensation, but the suckers excite a burning smart. This remarkable animal is called by the English the ‘¢ Portuguese man of war,” by the French Galére, and by the Portuguese Agoa viva, or Caravela. Nearer to the equator the number of these animals again decreased ; here, on the contrary, we found the Medusa pelagica very common. Aquatic birds also hovered about us at times: after a thunder shower the steersman caught a noddy (Sterna stolida) with his hands, which alighted quite fatigued on the deck ; some man-of-war birds (Pelicanus Agquilus, Linn.) also showed themselves, which had been driven from the neighbouring rocks.