Sketches of travels in Sicily, Italy, and France, in a series of letters, addressed to a friend in the United States

Front matter

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Preface

The favorable reception of several Journals pubiislicd by Americans, containing- an account of their travels and observations in foreign countries; the desire to gratify a few of his friends, and the animating- hope of protlucin^ a book in some degree useful and acceptable to bis fellow citizens, are the considerations which have induced the writer of the following Sketches to venture before the public in the character of an author.

These pages contain a plain narrative of facts and observations, in the form of a daily journal, originally intended for the perusal of his friends, and forwarded to ihem in a series of letters from Europe.

The great extent of the countries embraced in these Sketches, as well as the limited time employed in the journey, of which they are descriptive, has imposed upon the writer, the necessity of bmitling many details which the title of the yolurae may induce the reader to expect. As nearly the whole tour was upon classic ground, the author begs to anticipate the disappointment of the karned reader, by disclaiming all pretensions (o erudite investigation. The exhaustless subjects for the research of the scholar, the artist, and the antiquarian, have already occupied the pens and employed the lives of the ablest devotees to those pursuits ; while neither inclination prompted, nor ability enabled, the passing traveller to enter the same list, even in the character of humble imitation. As no work in the English language has been lately published upon Sicily ; and never, to the aua2 vi PREFACE.

(hor\s knowleclge, by an American, he hopes to find in this circumstance, some apology with the public, for the part of the work, hov;ever imperfect, which relates to that island.

Although English writers have published many Tolumes upon Italy, it is still desirable that the citizens of the United States should make their own remarks. While we have rendered ourselves independent of other nations, it should be our ambition to form our own opinions, and not to borrow our ideas of the manners, religion, and various institutions of foreign countries, from a people whose representations are liable to be influenced by their political relations, as well as their personal peculiarities.

In our first attempts to think, and to write for ourselves, we must expect many unsuccessful efforts ; and the author will have no reason to complain if his work finds a place among the unfortunate number : but he confidently believes, that an attempt to add to the common stock of information, will be received with indulgence; and he sends this volume abroad with the full assurance, that whatever may be its fate, the decision passed upon it by his fellow citizens, will be dictated by liberality and justice.

CONTEISTS.

i9i

Letter I

Embark in the Roxana at Boston, ..Voyage to Gibraltar... Straits and fortress.. .Coasts of Spain and Africa.. .Voyage continued.. ..Description of niedusoe... .Portuguese men of war.. .. Sardinia. ..Meritimo... View of Sicily... Arrival at Palermo.. .Prospect of quarantine.. .Sicilians.

LETTER IL

Quarantine.... Release from quarantine.. ..Page's Hotel.... Its apartments, &c....The Marina. ...Public garden,... Lazzaroui...The principal street.

LETTER in.

Vice Roy and family attending mass. ..The Ottongolo... Fountains. ..Statues mutilated.. .Churches, ..Mendicity... Fleas. ..Inconveniences at the Hotel.

LETTER IV.

Ill Colla.... Villa Favorite.. .The Olive.. ..Scenery.. ..Stone quarries... Aqueducts.. .La Bagaria... Palace of Prince Polonia... Queen's palace.. .Scenery.

LETTER V.

Sabbath.. .An excursion. ..Lizards. ..Insects. ..Vineyards... Prickly pear.. ..Public Square.. ..The Opera.... Ride to Mont Reale... Cathedral. ..Monastery... Landscape.

LETTER VI.

Table talk....Churches... .Situation of Palermo.. « General sketch of streets, markets, &c.

LETTER VII.

Departure from Palermo.... Faro of Messina.... Calabrian and Sicilian coasts... Messina from the Faro... Etna... SiciHan coast and Etna, views of...x\rrival at Catania... First view of Catania...Conyent of St. Nicoloso.

viii CONTENTS^.

LETTER VIIL

Signer. Lombardo Buda.. .Elephant of lava.. .Prince de Biscaris... Story of his marriage.. .His garden... A dying- Frenchman.

LETTER IX.

Church of St. Nicolosc.Mass and music, ..Lava of 1669, covered the City.. .Monte Rosso.. .Attempt at theft and its punishment... Afflictions of Buda. ..Theatre of Prince de Biscaris.. ..St. Nicol©so....The Organ. ...Rehnquish visiting Etna.. .Museums.. .Roads and travelling in the interior*

LETTER X.

New-year's view....Buda's ills. ...The captain's report....

Descent into ancient Catania.. .View from the bay...

Remarks.

LETTER XL Departure from Catania.... Voyage through the Faro of

Messina, a squall tliere...A water spout. ..The Lipari

Islands,..Strombolo...A gale... Arrival at Palermo.

LETTER XIL

Mr. A. attended by a Palermitan physician. ..Music and devotion of the Palermitans...The Opera. ..Madam Dardanella. ..Manners of the opera.. .Sirocc wind. ..Temperature of Sicily compared with ISew-England and its relation to huaian life... A masquerade. ..A religious procession.

LETTER XIIL

Sicilian diving.. .Excursion to the shrine of St. Rosalia,.. Mt. Peregrino... Provincial pecularities of Catania.

LETTER XIV.

A convent of Capuchins... Singular manner of burial... Ride to Mt, Reale...The Prince d'Aci at his gardens... New residence of my friends.

LETTFR XV.

Voyage to Naples.. .Description of the bay.. .Vesuvius,.. Arrival and prattique.... Police investigation. ...Lodgings...First walk in Naples.. .The Studio...'! he Catacombs.

CONTENTS. ix

LETTER XVI.

Review of Austrian troops... Weather... Grotto of Pausilypo...Pozzuoli... Temple of Diana.. .Solfatara... Amphitheatre and other ruins of Baiae... Monastery of St. Januarius... Second day at Raise. ..School of Virgil... Lucrine lake.. .Avernus... Grotto of the Sibyl. ..Baths of Nero.. ..Cape of Misenus....Elysian Fields.. ..Prison of Nero.. .Tomb of Agrippina.

LETTER XVn.

The tomb of Virg-il... Public garden. ..The Opera.. .Portici... The King's palace and museum.

LETTER XVin.

Herculaneum continued. ..Pompeii. ..Vesuvius.

LETTER XIX.

A morning at the Studio.. .Preparations for a journey to Rome.. .First day's journey. ..Fondi...Terracina...E*ontine marshes. ..Valletri.

LETTER XX.

Journey to Rome continued.., Tomb of the Horatii and Curatii... Arrival.

LETTER XXL

Arrival at Rome....T}ie first excursion. ...Pantheon... St. Peters.. .Quirinal and Colonna palaces.

LETTER XXIL

Place Colonna. ..Ceremony at the sixtine chapel.. ..The Pope and Cardinals.. .Galleries of the Vatican.

LETTER XXIH.

The Coliceum... Gardens among ruins.. .The tarpeian rock ....The modern Capitol.. ..The church of St. Peter in prison. ..The Moses of Michael Angelo... Baths of Titus Church of St. Peter in the mountain.... Pauline fountain. ...Villa Pamiili....Doria palace.. ..St. Peters....Place Navone.... Superb fountains.. ..Triumphal arches. ..Baths of Caracalla... Temple of Romulus.

X CONTENTS.

LETTER XXIV.

Bath of Caracalla...Tomb of Cecilia Metella... Sabbath... Catacombs of St. Sebastian. ..Fountain of Egeria.

LETTER XXV.

Palace Farnese....Cassino do.. ..Painting's.. ..The Marquis Canova...Tol\va]son a Danish arti3t....Ponte Lamentano...The sacred hill.

LETTER XXVL

The statues of Rome... An ancient statue of St. Peter... Modern sculpture compared with ancient.. .The earliest productions of Canova... Statues sculptured by him at St. Peters and the Vatican. ..The tomb of Tasso... Magnificence of modern Rome.. .Modern architecture.. .St, Carlos... Hospitals... A morning at St. Peters. ..Excursion to livoli... Capuchin burial. ..Preparations for holy week. ..Manners of strangers at Rome,..,Ceremomes of the passion week., .Excursion to Frescati.., .Conclusion of ceremonies and departure from Rome.

LETTER XXVIL

Journey to Florence. ..Civita Castellano... Travelling companions...Otricoli...Terni. ..Falls of Terni... Village fete.

LETTER XXVIIL

Perugia.. ..Pietro Perugino.... Michael Angelo..,.Thrasimenus... Defeat of Flaminius...Torriceni,

LETTER XXIX.

Ossaia...Cortona...Arezzo...Val d'Arno...Vallambrosa.

LETTER XXX.

Florence.. .The Medicean chapel. ..The Gallery of Florence...Venus de Medicis.... Anatomical preparations of wax... Venus of Canova...The Opera.

LETTER XXXI.

Leghorn and journey thither.. .Return to Pisa. ..Lucca... Journey to L'Erice.

LETTER XXXII.

Voyage to Genoa in an open boat... A gale... Arrival at

CONTENTS. xi

Genoa. ...Era of Columbus.... Asylum for the poor.... Fortress Spezone.... Military review at which the King is present. ..The Opera.

LETTER XXXIII.

Genoa continued. ..Its wealth and activity.. .Harbour and mole.. .Arsenal... A night scene.. .Preparations for departure.

LETTER XXXIV.

Departure from Genoa and journey to Turin. ..Travelling companions... Religious procession at Monte Cavalre.... Arrival at Turin.. Arsenal. .General remarks, dress, &c.. The Opera.. .Departure from Turin. ..Suza... Ascent of Mt, Cenis... Break fast on the summit of the Alps.. .Inn* keeper and family.

LETTER XXXV.

Passage of the Alps continued. ..Houses of refuge... Place of deposit for merchandize... Descent of the Alps... Chamberry... Alpine scenery.. .Descent of the Alps continued....Scales of Savoy.. ..Submontane excavation.... Pont de Beauvoisin... .Custom-house adventure... Verpiliere.

LETTER XXXVI.

Arrival at Lyons.. .Cathedral.. .Bridge.. .Hotel de Ville... Street scene.. .Mons. Paul... His love of country how discovered.

LETTER XXXVII.

Voyage to Chalons... Village reception on the !Saone... Macon. ..A night on the Saone.

LETTER XXXVIII.

Chalons.. .Departure from that place.. .Auxerre.. .General remarks.. .Sens. ..Funeral monument. ..Melun...Montro...

The King's forest.. .Villeneuve — View of Paris.

LETTER XXXIX.

Paris,,, Manners,.. Cabinet of natural history... Conclusion.

SKETCHES, &c.

LETTER I.

Embark in the Roxana at Boston— ^Voyage to Gihral' tar — Straits and fortress — Coasts of Spain and Africa-^Voyage continued — Description of medus(E — Portuguese men ofwar-^Sardinia—Meritimo — View ofSicilt/ — Arrival at Palermo — Prospect ofquaran* tine — Sicilians.

Ship Roxana, off Malaga, Nov, 9, 1816. I FOUND the incidents ef a sea voyage so uninteresting, that I concluded not to perform my promise of writing to you until I should have seen some spot to identify the old world. As proposed when I left Pittsfield, I joined Mr. and Mrs. * * * at Boston, and embarked in the Roxana, Capt. B. on the fiist day of October. We dropped down to Nantasket Roads with a gentle breeze, and were there two days becalmed, enveloped in fogs, and benumbed by the cold of that remarkalle season.

When we got out to sea, the weather became warmer, and until our arrival in the Mediterranean, the mercury ranged from 60 to 65. In consequence of severe gales and adverse winds, we failed of making the Azores, where it was our intention to have taken a second departure. We also passed to the south of Cape St. Vincent, and were not a little surprised, on the 8th of November, at 10 p. M. to find ourselves in sight of Cape J^partel. in Africa. The moon was near its full, the weather delightful, and we were laying our course before a gentle west-

B erly wind. It was not necessary for us to change our direction, or to delay entering the Straits of Gibraltar. We soon found ourselves under the influence of a strong current, which added to the rate of our sailing about three knots an hour. As we entered this celebrated pass, the mountains seemed to be closing around us. My curiosity kept me on deck nearly all night, but I was barely able to distinguish the bold outline of a mountaiueous shore on both sides.

At dawn we were in the narrowest point of the Strait, and the Rock of Gibraltar in sight, rising like a cone above the level of the sea, and apparently disconnected from the shore. All around us the high and bare mountains rose upon our view as the light increased ; and we could distinguish the white wails and spires of the city of Algeziras, situated on the west side of the Bay of Gibraltar. These were the first human habitations we saw in Europe. We looked with delight upon the first traces of mankind, and felt the dreariness of ocean solitude to be suddenly at an end.

We passed so near the Rock of Gibraltar that we had a fine view of its vast fortifications ; but our instructions not allowing us to enter the port, we had no opportunity to examine it with minuteness. The breeze continuing, we pursued our course, inclining towards the coast of Spain. As the Mediterranean expanded before us, the hisfh mountains of Africa receded from our view on the right; on the left, the naked summits and barren cliffs of Andelusia extended, in gigantic ridges.

We are now in sight of Malaga, and can clearly distinguish above the mass of its edifices, the dome of the celebrated cathedral. The buildings of every description seem to be of the sanje dull white colour, and of massy and durable structure. The tops of the mountains of Granada, covered with snow, rise, white and clear, above the clouds, while at their feet is extended a country of perpetual verdure, adorned with plantations and enlivened with edifices. The summits of all the mountains within our view incline to a conical shape, v/hich gives to the coasts near us a strong and remarkable feature. The African shore differs from that of Spain in its exhibiting a little more boldness and magnitude of general outline.

10th. — During the night we passed Cape de Gatle. At dawn the African coast was still in siglst. Our course through the day has been east north east, and we have been gradually loosing the mountaineous shores. Except the snowy summits of Granada, which are 3'et visible, Cape Pallas, near Carthagena, was the last point to vanish behind us. At this moment the Captain has called all hands, and from his loud orders and hasty lowering of the sails, we presume he expects bad weather.

11th. — The squall which threatened us last evening, was followed by a strong wind from the north without clouds or rain. We were a little surprised at this circumstance, because we have not before experienced a galp without its being attended with rain. This '* dry gale,'* the sailors assure us is very frequent in the Mediterranean. There is a chilliness in the air which we have not observed at main ocean.

T'Jth. — Yesterday we passed Yvica and Formosa, and are this morning opposite Majorca. The mountains of this island, like all we have seen, are conical and barren.

The changes of temperature and of the wind are more frequent and severe than at main ocean.

15th. — Off Sardinia^ We have lately ohserved an unusual brightness in the wake of the ship during the night. This singular appearance seems to vary perceptibly with the changes of weather, and the sailors notice its increase as ominous of high winds. This beautiful phenomenon is supposed by Spallanzani and others, to be caused by smalt sea animals of the genus Medusa. Since we entered the Mediterranean, we have constantly observed a great number of the common species of this animal. On examining such as we have been able to take with a scoup net constructed for the purpose, we have found the M. Urticaria to possess, in the highest degree, the power of emitting light. The small animals which cause the bright sparkling in the wake of the ship, are too minute to be detected by the naked eye. The medusae are usually denomi» nated Sea Jellies, and when floating near the surface of the water, have the appearance of bodies void of life. When more closely observed, they are found to possess considerable muscular power. They are nearly transparent, though we observed several of a muddy orange hue, and others of a faint red, blue, &c. 'J'hese animals are most frequently found in warm climates, but are occasionally met with in every region. Each animal consists of a globular, gelatinous mass, covered with a transparent membrane, and having tentacnl(E, or holders, attached to its most depending part. They move through the water by means of the alternate contraction and dilatation of their bodies or disks, which are usuallj'^ convex above and slightly concave below.

The tentaculae are from half an inch to two or three feet in length, and are the instruments with which they seize their prey, or altacii themselves to rocks. Notwithstanding- the simple and delicate structure of this animal, its favorite food consists of small shell fish and hard insects — It is oviparous. The ovum and the indig-estibie remains of food are expelled from the same opening, which also serves as a mouth. Several of the medusae possess the power, when recently taken from the water, of producing an itching' sensation when applied to the skin. Hence the name of the species, M. Urticaria. The light emitted hy these animals is supposed to be a secretion. We caught a great number of various sizes, &c. but none possessed the power of emitting light, or of producing the itching sensation in so great a degree as the M. Urticaria. Our first prisoner had a vesicle attached to its disk, inflated with air. It floated upon the surface of the water hke a white bubble. The vesicle was not globular, but of an oval shape. The animal possessed the power of compressing the sides of this vesicle so as to make it hold the wind like a sail. Like a boat well manned, the little animal can brace vp sharp to the wind, or scud at his pleasure. The sailors call it the Portuguese man of war. The second was of a globular shape, having no air vesicle, and of a dirty orange hue. The tentaculse were very short and delicate, and covered with tender spiculce, which easily fell ofij and rendered the water in which it was kept, turbid. It moved feebly, and soon died.

The third was a little larger, and more solid. Tt had eight tentaculae, four of which were large and hollow tubes for conveying food to the disk, four smaller and more delicate, hanging eighteen or twenty inches below the body of the animal. It moved with considerable vigor,

b2 but made no effojt to escape when caught ia the handi The contractions and dilatations were perfectly regular, resembhng the action of the heart of cold blooded animals. This motion is presumed to be essential to the life of the animal, as it never ceases until vitality is extinguished.

On touching this medusae with the back of my handy an itching and smarting sensation was felt like the effect of cowhage, or the most poisonous kind of nettles. In the disks of other medusae we had found some very small fish still alive. Having put tliese into the basin with the Medusa Urticaria, they soon came in contact with the tentacula, which instantly killed them. They were then slowly conveyed through the hollow tentaculae to the disk or body of the medusa.

Another species we always observed in clusters, con-» sisting of eight or ten gelatinous masses, adhering together by a process from the back of each. These had no tentaculae, and were of an oval shape, having an aperture at one end large enough to admit the little finger.

Here also we had occasion to admire the watchfulness of nature in providing the means of subsistence to these motionless and passive beings. The mouth is so formed that small fish are tempted to run into it as a place of security from other enemies, when the valvular aperture by which they entered closes behind them, and prevents their escape.

We kept a number of each kind for the purpose of examining them in the evening. All were phosphorescent, or emitted light, but the M. Urticaria in much the highest degree. This, when disturbed, showed a bright and silvery light, which was repeated in a feeble flasb three or four times after tauching- it with a stick,

16th. — We passed Sardinia during the night. When we awoke from our comfortless repose (the wind had blown a gale) the eastern point of that island bearing w. N. w. was sinking far behind us. Two qu-iils, nearly exhausted by their long flight, attempted to light upon the rig-ging ; but not being able to gain firm foot hold, were brushed into the sea. A whale played around us, of a colour as light as the canvass of our sails. A fine turtle seemed to be asleep upon the water until we came very near him, and all m^cessary preparations were ready for his capture, when lo ! the sleeper vanished, and with him all our hopes of soup.

17th. — Early in the morning we were in sight of Meritimo, a small rugged island near the western point of Sicily. We now had a fine breeze, and have been sailing at the rate of six knots an hour along the rocky capes and barren mountains of Sicily. At sunset we were opposite Cape Gallo, at the entrance of the bay of Palermo. After it became dark, we were so near the shore that we could distinctly hear the surf breaking upon the rocks. By day light this would have been a most wel^ come sound, but in the unusual darkness of this evening, seemed ominous of danger. The wind continued to favor us, and at length the beacon light at the entrance of the harbor was discovered. By this joyful guidance we reached the anciiorage ground at 12 o'clock. After being hailed by an officer of the port, and declaring our name, country and destination, we were allowed to cast anchor.

18th.— As soon as it was light we were upon deck, impatient to see every object around us, and to ascertain when we should be permitted to go on shore. Among the first objects which claimed our attention were the bold mountains which encircle the bay and the plain in which Palermo is situated. The steep and barren summits are slightly covered with snow. Palermo is so near that we can view its streets and edifices almost as well as if we were walking upon its pavements. There is an uniformity in the colour of the walls, and an air of antiquity and permanency in every thing, which reminds us that we are viewing the monuments of the old world.

A great number of small boats have surrounded us, offering oranges, grapes, figs, strawberries, pomegranates, and other delicious fruits, as well as fresh provisions. We receive all these things through the hands of an old Sicilian, who has come on board to share with us whatever quarantine the health officer may dictate. We have been visited by the medical board, and we are sorry to find, shall be kept in quarantine several days. A report has reached this place, that the yellow fever prevails in the West- Indies. The gentlemen of the health-office will make no distinction between the West-Indies and New-England,

12 o'clock. — The mole near which we have anchored has been, during the morning, covered with people. The majority are beggars. Some have been tendering us their services in various ways — others offering to supply us with fruits, servants, and provisions. By their great anxiety to serve us, they discover a degree of poverty which is calculated to astonish an American. Several young men who beg for employment as agents, interpreters, &c, are extremely well formed and neatly dressed*

In conversation they use many gestures, and hare an air of sin^lar sprightliness. Even the beg-gars possess this peculiar gracefulness of action. Among the idle persons and beggars we observe many old men, miserably ragged and filthy. The watermen, who keep a constant hallooing around us, have the voices of eunuchs ; an octave at least higher than the voices of Americans,

We are not able to-day to ascertain what will be the duration of our quarantine. Every thing invites us on shore, but our delay is of unavoidable necessity. I hope soon to be able to write you from Palermo, and shall continue during my residence there, and my future journeys, to give you a circumstantial account of my daily progress.

Yours, &c.

Letter II

Quarantine — Release from quarantine — Page'^s Hotel — Its apartments, Sfc. — The Marina — Public gar^ den — Lazzaroni — The principal street.

Dec. 1. — Since I last wrote, we have ascertained that the quarantine regulations, in their full extent, are to be applied to us. it seems to be the policy of the health-office, if it err at all, to err on the side of safety. In our case, coming not only from a healthy, but northern port, the caution of imposing a quarantine of three weeks seems vexatious and absurd. The Sicilians apologize for the severity of their quarantine laws, by asserting that the Turks and the Barbary powers pay ^o little attention to such regulations, that they are constant-

]y exposed to infection from them ; and it is in most instances impossible for the health officer to ascertain by whom strange ships may have been visited at sea, or ■what communication they may have had with sickly crews. In a cify which has suffered by the plague so severely as Palermo, no one can reasonably complain of such precautions. American ships have been, in some instances, allowed to land their passengers, and discharge their cargoes, under circumstances similar to ours. In this instance, the persons to whom we are consigned have exerted themselves iu vain in our behalf. With the hope of finding more comfortable quarters than cur ship afforded, we obtained permission from the health officer to visit the Lazaretto.

For this purpose we started from the ship early this morning, attended by a boat from the health-office, which guided us to the place, and acted as a guard upon us. We found the buildings denominated the Lazaretto sufficiently large, but entirely deserted, and of a ruinous appearance. They are principally used for the deposit of goods under quarantine. We concluded we should not improve our condition by exchanging our confined ship's cabin for this forbidding place.

The weather continues extremely mild, though the Sicilians call it severe winter. Since our arrival the mercury has not been below C2, or above 69. Rains have been frequent; usually in short showers, followed by an interval of sunshine. The high summits of the mountains are frequently covered with snow for a few hours. Vegetation is of the bright and lively green of spring. Strawberries and green peas are offered us daily, in the greatest abundance.

Tlie American consul, Mr. Porter, who is a passeng^er with us, receives many presents from his friends, and from those who intend to ask favors of him in his official capacity, of fruits, wines, vegetables, &c. so that our table is abundantly supplied. The wines of the country are of excellent flavor, and we understand, usually costs about IS cents per bottle. Articles of provision are generally cheap and good. I dont know whether it is doing justice to the Sicihans to suppose the presents we are daily receiving are intended to tax our generosity, or to purchase from us any favors in return. Baskets of fruil, flowers, ice-creams, &c. have been sent us almost every day, with the most civil messages and billets, as if all were dictated by the kindest hospitality.

5. — The term of our quarantine expires on the 8th, but we have been officially informed we may expect our liberation to-morrow. At the commencement of our quarantine the health otiicers did not think proper to let us know precisely how many days we were to wait for Prattique.*

In the irksomeness of our confinement we have made this a subject of complaint, but now we feel decidedly obliged to them for remitting two days of our punishment. If we meet the health officers on shore we shall be very likely to thank them for their civihty

6. — Page's Hotel f Palermo. The joyful tidings of our release reached us this morning. Our English friends came with their carriages, and we rode to Page's Hotel, where preparations had been previously made for us. I am now located in one of the chambers, surrounded by every necessary convenience. During the day we have

* Official notice of the expiration of quarantine.

had time to explore our habitation, and to take a hasty survey of the city. The castle of my landlord Page (castle it seems to me) is a pretty good specimen of the common houses of the city. We entered it by a large gate, which admitted the carriage in which we rode, into a paved court. The flag stones which form the pavement of the streets are continued into this court. A flight of stairs on each side leads up one story, to the inhabited apartments. The ground floor is occupied with coarse store rooms, the porter's lodge, and stables. The walls are thick, strong, and plain, like the walls of a fortress, and we feel confident we shall find them a sufl^icient defence against all enemies except fleas. Between the tiles which form the floors, and in the crevices of the walls, these tormentors lay in ambush, and issue forth to attack us whenever we sit down. The doors and window-sashes are of very coarse workmanship. The walls are without chair-railings, or any ornamental work in wood. The apartments are destitute of fire-places, and the furniture consists of half a dozen plain chairs, a table of the most beautiful marble, and a large mirror.

It is so cold that we require a little fire, and we find upon enquiry, that there is one room in the house which has a fire-place. This we have secured by a formal stipulation with Mons. Page, who assures us he has been at the expense of building this solely for the accommodation of his English guests, and that the Sicilians never think of requiring such a convenience.

7. — V/e passed our first night on shore with great com* fort. The chambers are large and airy • we slept upon mattresses placed upon high iron bedsteads, where we enjoyed the luxury of free air and clean linen.

After breakfast, which consisted of excellent eoft'ee, eggs, warm bread and fresh butter, we made our first excursion to view the Marina, the gardens, and whatever objects of curiosity might come in our way.

Our hotel is situated near the northern wall of the city, and a short distance from the gate, Porto Felice, through which we walked to the Marina. We stopped a moment to admire the noble building which forms this gate of happiness; so named from its opening to the Marina, a place devoted to healthful exercise and amusement. It is ornamented with columns, and rich sculpture, in white and fine marble. The Marina is a promonade extending along the beach about a mile, having a broad and elevated flag walk near the water for foot passengers, and behind this a space for carriages. It is so situated as to command a view of the bay, and to receive the sea breeze. It has no shade trees, but is ornamented with two fountains, which supply an abundance of water, and are each surrounded by statues of marble.