Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa. From the journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s government, in the years 1849-1855

Front matter

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NORTH and CENTRAL AFRICA.

Preface

On the 5th of October, 1849, at Berlin, Professor Carl Hitter informed me that the British government was about to send Mr. Richardson on a mission to Central Africa, and that they had offered, through the Chevalier Bunsen, to allow a German traveller to join the mission, provided he was willing to contribute two hundred pounds for his own personal travelling expenses.

I had commenced lecturing at the University of Berlin on comparative geography and the colonial commerce of antiquity, and had just at that time published the first volume of my "Wanderings round the Mediterranean," which comprised my journey through Barbary. Having undertaken this journey quite alone, I spent nearly my whole time with the Arabs, and familiarized myself with that state of human society where the camel is man's daily companion, and the culture of the date-tree his chief occupation. I made long journeys through desert tracts ; I travelled all around the Great Syrtis, and, passing through the picturesque little tract of Cyrenaica, traversed the whole country toward Egypt ; I wandered about for above a month in the desert valleys between Aswan and Koser, and afterward pursued my journey by land all the way through Syria and Asia Minor to Constantinople.

While traversing these extensive tracts, where European comfort is never altogether out of reach, where lost supplies may be easily replaced, and where the protection of European powers is not quite without avail, I had often cast a wistful look toward those unknown or little-known regions in the interior, which stand in frequent, though irregular connection with

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the coast. As a lover of ancient history, I had been led toward those regions rather through the commerce of ancient Carthage than by the thread of modern discovery, and the desire to know something more about them acted on me like a charm. In the course of a conversation I once held with a Hausa slave in Kaf, in the regency of Tunis, he, seeing the interest I took in his native country, made use of the simple but impressive words, "Please God, you shall go and visit Kano. " These words were constantly ringing in my ears; and though overpowered for a time by the vivid impressions of interesting and picturesque countries, they echoed with renewed intensity as soon as I was restored to the tranquillity of European life.

During my three years' travelling I had ample opportunity of testing the efficacy of British protection ; I experienced the kindness of all her Britannic majesty's consuls from Tangiers to Brusa, and often enjoyed their hospitality. It was solely their protection which enabled me to traverse with some degree of security those more desert tracts through which I wandered. Colonel Warrington, her majesty's consul in Tripoli, who seems to have had some presentiment of my capabilities as an African explorer, even promised me his full assistance if I should try to penetrate into the interior. Besides this, my admiration of the wide extensiou of the British over the globe, their influence, their language, and their government, was such that I felt a strong inclination to become the humble means of carrying out their philanthropic views for the progressive civilization of the neglected races of Central Africa.

Under these circumstances, I volunteered cheerfully to accompany Mr. Richardson, on the sole condition, however, that the exploration of Central Africa should be made the principal object of the mission, instead of a secondary one, as had been originally contemplated.

In the mean time, while letters were interchanged between Berlin, London, and Paris (where Mr. Richardson at that time resided), my father, whom I had informed of my design, entreated me to desist from my perilous undertaking with an ear-

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nestness which my filial duty did not allow me to resist; and giving way to Dr. Overweg, who in youthful enthusiasm eaine immediately forward to volunteer, I receded from my engagement. But it was too late, my offer having been officially accepted in London ; and I therefore allayed my father's anxiety, and joined the expedition.

It was a generous act of Lord Palmerston, who organized the expedition, to allow two foreign gentlemen to join it instead of one. A sailor was besides attached to it ; and a boat was also provided, in order to give full scope to the object of exploration. The choice of the sailor was unfortunate, and Mr. Richardson thought it best to send him back from Murzuk ; but the boat, which was carried throughout the difficult and circuitous road by Murzuk, Ghat, Air, and Zinder, exciting the wonder and astonishment of all the tribes in the interior, ultimately reached its destination, though the director of the expedition himself had in the meanwhile unfortunately succumbed.

Government also allowed us to take out arms. At first it had been thought that the expedition ought to go unarmed, inasmuch as Mr. Richardson had made his first journey to Ghat without arms. Button that occasion he had gone as a private individual, without instruments, without presents, without anything ; and we were to unite with the character of an expedition that of a mission — that is to say, we were to explore the country while endeavoring at the same time to establish friendship with the chiefs and rulers of the different territories. It may be taken for granted that we should never have crossed the frontier of Air had we been unarmed ; and when I entered upon my journey alone, it would have been impossible for me to proceed without arms through countries which are in a constant state of war, where no chief or ruler can protect a traveller except with a large escort, which is sure to run away as soon as there is any real danger.

It may be possible to travel without arms in some parts of Southern Africa; but there is this wide difference, that the natives of the latter are exclusively Pagans, while, along all

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those tracts which I have been exploring, Islamism and Paganism are constantly arrayed against each other in open or secret warfare, even if we leave out of view the unsafe state of the roads through large states consisting, though loosely connected together, of almost independent provinces. The traveller in such countries must carry arms ; yet he must exercise the utmost discretion in using them. As for myself, I avoided giving offence to the men with whom I had to deal in peaceful intercourse, endeavoring to attach them to me by esteem and friendship. I have never proceeded onward without leaving a sincere friend behind me, and thus being sure that, if obliged to retrace my steps, I might do so with safety.

But I have more particular reason to be grateful for the opinion entertained of me by the British government ; for after Mr. Richardson had, in March, 1851, fallen a victim to the noble enterprise to which he had devoted his life, her majesty's government honored me with their confidence, and in authorizing me to carry out the objects of the expedition, placed sufficient means at my disposal for the purpose. The position in which I was thus placed must be my excuse for undertaking, after the successful accomplishment of my labors, the difficult task of relating them in a language not my own.

In matters of science and humanity all nations ought to be united by one common interest, each contributing its share in proportion to its own peculiar disposition and calling If I have been able to achieve something in geographical discovery, it is difficult to say how much of it is due to English, how much to German influence ; for science is built up of the materials collected by almost every nation, and, beyond all doubt, in geographical enterprise in general none has done more than the English, while, in Central Africa in particular, very little has been achieved by any but English travellers. Let it not, therefore, be attributed to an undue feeling of nationality if I correct any error of those who preceded me. It would be unpardonable if a traveller failed to penetrate further, or to obtain a clearer insight into the customs and the polity of the nations visited by him, or if he were unable to delineate the country

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with greater accuracy and precision than those who went before him.

Every succeeding traveller is largely indebted to the labors of his predecessor. Thus our expedition would never have been able to achieve what it did, if Oudney, Denham, and Clapperton had not gone before us ; nor would these travellers have succeeded so far, had Lyon and Ritchie not opened the road to Fezzan ; nor would Lyon have been able to reach Tejerri, if Captain (now Rear Admiral) Smyth had not shown the way to Ghirza. To Smyth, seconded by Colonel Warrington, is due the merit of having attracted the attention of the British government to the favorable situation of Tripoli for facilitating intercourse with Central Africa ; and if at present the river-communication along the Tsadda or Benuwe seems to hold out a prospect of an easier approach to those regions, the importance of Tripoli must not be underrated, for it may long remain the most available port from which a steady communication with many parts of that continent can be kept up.

I had the good fortune to see my discoveries placed on a stable basis before they were brought to a close, by the astronomical observations of Dr. Yogel, who was sent out by her Britannic majesty's government for the purpose of joining the expedition ; and I have only to regret that this gentleman was not my companion from the beginning of my journey, as exact astronomical observations, such as he has made, are of the utmost importance in any geographical exploration. By moving the generally-accepted position of Kukawa more than a degree to the westward, the whole map of the interior has been changed very considerably. The position assigned by Dr. Yogel to Zinder gives to the whole western route, from Ghat through the country of A'sben, a well-fixed terminating point, while at the same time it serves to check my route to Timbuktu. If, however, this topic be left out of consideration, it will be found that the maps made by me on the journey, under many privations, were a close approximation to the truth. But now all that pertains to physical features and geo-

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graphical position has been laid down, and executed with artistic skill and scientific precision, by Dr. Peterman.

The principal merit which I claim for myself in this respect is that of having noted the whole configuration of the country ; and my chief object has been to represent the tribes and nations with whom I came in contact, in their historical and ethnographical relation to the rest of mankind, as well as in their physical relation to that tract of country in which they live. If, in this respect, I have succeeded in placing before the eyes of the public a new and animated picture, and connected those apparently savage and degraded tribes more intimately with the history of races placed on a higher level of civilization, I shall be amply recompensed for the toils and dangers I have gone through.

My companion, Dr. Overweg, was a clever and active young geologist ; but, unfortunately, he was deficient in that general knowledge of natural science which is required for comprehending all the various phenomena occurring on a journey into unknown regions. Having never before risked his life on a dangerous expedition, he never for a moment doubted that it might not be his good fortune to return home in safety, and he therefore did not always bestow that care upon his journal which is so desirable in such an enterprise. Nevertheless, almost all his observations of latitude have been found correct, while his memoranda, if deciphered at leisure, might still yield a rich harvest.

One of the principal objects which her Britannic majesty's government had always in view in these African expeditions was the abolition of the slave-trade. This, too, was zealously advocated by the late Mr. Richardson, and, I trust, has been as zealously carried out by myself whenever it was in my power to do so, although, as an explorer on a journey of discovery, I was induced, after mature reflection, to place myself under the protection of an expeditionary army, whose object it was to subdue another tribe, and eventually to carry away a large proportion of the conquered into slavery. Now it should always be borne in mind that there is a broad distinction between the

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slave-trade and domestic slavery. The foreign slave-trade may, comparatively speaking, be easily abolished, though the difficulty of watching over contraband attempts has been shown sufficiently by many years' experience. With the abolition of the slave-trade all along the northern and southwestern coast of Africa, slaves will cease to be brought down to the coast, and in this way a great deal of the mischief and misery necessarily resulting from this inhuman traffic will be cut off. But this, unfortunately, forms only a small part of the evil.

There can be no doubt that the most horrible topic connected with slavery is slave-hunting ; and this is carried on, not only for the purpose of supplying the foreign market, but, in a far more extensile degree, for supplying the wants of domestic slavery. Hence it was necessary that I should become acquainted with the real state of these most important features of African society, in order to speak clearly about them ; for with what authority could I expatiate on the horrors and the destruction accompanying such an expedition if I were not speaking as an eyewitness ? But having myself accompanied such a host on a grand scale, I shall be able to lay before the public a picture of the cheerful comfort, as well as the domestic happiness, of a considerable portion of the human race, which, though in a low, is not at all in a degraded state of civilization, as well as the wanton and cruel manner in which this happiness is destroyed, and its peaceful abodes changed into desolation. Moreover, this very expedition afforded me the best opportunity of convincing the rulers of Bornu of the injury which such a perverse system entails upon themselves.

But, besides this, it was of the utmost importance to visit the country of the Miisgu ; for while that region had been represented by the last expedition as an almost inaccessible mountain chain, attached to that group which Major Denham observed on his enterprising but unfortunate expedition with Bd-Khalum, I convinced myself on my journey to A'damawa, from the information which I gathered from the natives, that the mountains of Mandara are entirely insulated toward 2

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the east. I considered it, therefore, a matter of great geographical importance to visit that country, which, being situated between the rivers Shari and Benuwe, could alone afford the proof whether there was any connection between these two rivers.

I shall have frequent occasion to refer, in my journal, to conversations which I had with the natives on religious subjects. I may say that I have always avowed my religion, and defended the pure principles of Christianity against those of Islam ; only once was I obliged, for about a month: in order to carry out my project of reaching Timbuctu, to assume the character of a Moslim. Had I not resorted to this expedient, it would have been absolutely impossible to achieve such a project, since I was then under the protection of no chief whatever, and had to pass through the country of the fanatic and barbarous hordes of the Tawarek. But though, with this sole exception, I have never denied my character of a Christian, I thought it prudent to conform to the innocent prejudices of the people around me — adopting a dress which is at once better adapted to the climate and more decorous in the eyes of the natives. One great cause of my popularity was the custom of alms-giving. By this means I won the esteem of the natives, who took such a lively interest in my well-being that, even when I was extremely ill, they used to say, u 'Abd el Kerim* shall not die."

Of the first part of our expedition there has already appeared the Narrative of the late Mr. Richardson, published from his manuscript journals, which I was fortunately able to send home from Kiikawa. It is full of minute incidents of travelling life, so very instructive to the general reader. But, from my point of view, I had to look very differently at the objects which presented themselves; and Mr. Richardson, if he had lived to work out his memoranda himself, would not have failed to give to his journal a more lasting interest. Moreover, my

* "'Abd el Kerim," meaning "Servant of the Merciful," was the name which I thought it prudent to adopt.

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stay in A'gades afforded me quite a different insight into the life, the history, and geography of those regions, and brought me into contact with Timbxictu.

Extending over a tract of country of twenty -four degrees from north to south, and twenty degrees from east to west, in the broadest part of the continent of Africa, my travels necessarily comprise subjects of great interest and diversity.

After having traversed vast deserts of the most barren soil, and scenes of the most frightful desolation, I met with fertile lands irrigated by large navigable rivers and extensive central lakes, ornamented with the finest timber, and producing various species of grain, rice, sesamum, ground-nuts, in unlimited abundance, the sugar-cane, &c, together with cotton and indigo, the most valuable commodities of trade. The whole of Central Africa, from Bagirmi to the east as far as Timbuctu to the west (as will be seen in my narrative), abounds in these products. The natives of these regions not only weave their own cotton, but dye their home-made shirts with their own indigo. The river, the far-famed Niger, which gives access to these regions by means of its eastern branch, the Benuwe, which I discovered, affords an uninterrupted navigable sheet of water for more than six hundred miles into the very heart of the country. Its western branch is obstructed by rapids at the distanee of about three hundred and fifty miles from the coast ; but even at that point it is probably not impassable in the present state of navigation, while, higher up, the river opens an immense high-road for nearly one thousand miles into the very heart of Western Africa, so rich in every kind of produce.

The same diversity of soil and produce which the regions traversed by me exhibit, is also observed with respect to man. Starting from Tripoli in the north, we proceed from the settlements of the Arab and the Berber, the poor remnants of the vast empires of the middle ages, into a country dotted with splendid ruins from the period of the Roman dominion, through the wild roving hordes of the Tawarek, to the Negro and half- Negro tribes, and to the very border of the South African

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nntions. In the regions of Central Africa there exists not one and the same stock, as in South Africa, but the greatest diversity of tribes, or rather nations, prevails, with idioms entirely distinct.

The great and momentous struggle between Islamism and Paganism is here continually going on, causing every day the most painful and affecting results, while the miseries arising from slavery and the slave trade are here revealed in their most repulsive features. We find Mohammedan learning ingrafted on the ignorance and simplicity of the black races, and the gaudy magnificence and strict ceremonial of large empires side by side with the barbarous simplicity of naked and half-naked tribes. We here trace a historical thread which guides us through this labyrinth of tribes and overthrown kingdoms ; and a lively interest is awakened by reflecting on their possible progress and restoration, through the intercourse with more civilized parts of the world. Finally, we find here commerce in every direction radiating from Kano, the great emporium of Central Africa, and spreading the manufactures of that industrious region over the whole of Western Africa.

I can not conclude these prefatory remarks without expressing my sincere thanks for the great interest shown in my proceedings by so many eminent men in this country, as well as for the distinction of the Victoria medal awarded to me by the Royal Geographical Society. As I may flatter myself that, by the success which attended my efforts, I have encouraged further undertakings in these, as well as in other quarters of Africa, so it will be my greatest satisfaction if this narrative should give a fresh impulse to the endeavors to open the fertile regions of Central Africa to European commerce and civilization.*

* Dr. Barth, in his narrative, frequently refers to the expedition of Denham and Clapperton (which he calls "the former expedition,") as though its history were familiar to his readers. As this is not the case with a great majority of readers, we have thought it advisable to give an outline of what was accomplished by these gentlemen in the way of geographical discovery.

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The persons selected by the British government for this mission to Central Africa, were Major Denham, Lieutenant Clapperton of the army, and Dr. Oudney, a naval surgeon, conversant with natural history. They arrived at Murzuk, the capital of Fezzan, on the 8th of April, 1822. They left this place in November, and reached Lake Tsad on the 5th of February, 1823. On the 17th of February they arrived at Kuka, the capital of Bornu, then ruled by the Sheikh el Kanemy, who received them kindly, and permitted them to observe the country and its people. During their residence here, Major Denham imprudently joined Boo Khaloom, a native chief, in a slave hunting expedition against the Felatahs ; the result of which was, that Boo Khaloom himself was defeated and killed, and Major Denham, after being stripped naked by the conquerors, barely escaped with his life.

On the 14th of December, 1823, Captain Clapperton and Dr. Oudney set out for Kano in Sudan, but Dr. Oudney, whose health had been failing, died on the 12th of January, 1824. Clapperton reached Kano, and thence proceeded to Sokoto, the residence of Sultan Bello, by whom he was favorably received. After a residence of several months in this place, Clapperton returned through Kashna, and on the 8th of July, 1824, arrived in Kuka, to which place, ten days later, Major Denham returned from a journey round Lake Tsad. On the 16th of August, 1824, the travellers left Kuka, and arrived at Tripoli on the 25th of January, 1825.

Clapperton, now promoted to the rank of captain, was equipped for a second expedition; and on the 7th of September, 1825, accompanied by Dr. Morrison and Captain Pearce, departed from Rodagry for the interior of Africa. In less than a month, Clapperton's two companions died ; and he had no associate left but his faithful servant, Richard Lander. Sixty miles from the coast, he entered the kingdom of Yarriba, and was kindly received at its capital, Eyeo, or Katunga. He then visited Boussa, the scene of Muugo Park's death, and the kingdom of Zegzeg, the capital of which, Zaria, contained, by his computation, 50,000 inhabitants.

Clapperton at length arrived at Sokoto, where he found the Sultan no longer friendly. He knew that the English traveller was the bearer of a present to the Sheikh of Bornu, containing, among other articles, six muskets ; and as he was at war with the Sheikh, this was deemed a suspicious circumstance. Clapperton's spirits were depressed. He soon fell sick, and expired on the 13th of April. Sultan Bello was somewhat affected by his death, and permitted Lander to perform his fifceral obsequies with every mark of respect. After an unsuccessful attempt to trace the Niger to its outlet, Lander found his way to Badagry, on the coast, November 21, 1827.

In the first of these expeditions, Denham and Clapperton, from the 2* B

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east side of Lake Tsad (long. 17°), to Sokoto (long. 5£°), explored a distance of 700 miles from east to west in the heart of Africa, a distance of 400 miles only remaining unknown, from Silla to Sokoto. But the second journey of Captain Clapperton added tenfold value to these discoveries. He had the good fortune to detect the shortest and most easy road to the populous countries of the interior, and he could boast of being the first who had completed an itinerary across the continent of Africa, from Tripoli to Benin.

While Captain Clapperton was on his second journey, Major Loring undertook to penetrate to Timbuktu. From Tripoli he crossed the Desert by way of Gadames. The kafila, with which he travelled, being attacked by the ferocious tribe, Tawarek, Major Loring received twenty-four wounds, and was left for dead. But by the attention of his companions he recovered, and reached Timbuktu, August 18, 1826. He was subsequently murdered by a treacherous Moorish guide, while attempting to reach Sego.

The knowledge of interior Africa, obtained by these expeditions, has been immensely inoreased by the discoveries and explorations of

Dr. Barth.

American Editor.

CHAPTER I. PAdE

Dr. Bartli and Mr. Overweg arrive in Tunis — Journey to Tripoli — Pass a Month in exploring the Country round Tripoli — They return to Tripoli — Are joined by Mr. Richardson, and proceed to Murzuk, the capital of Fezzan 25

Chapter II

Delay in Murzuk — Description of the place, its Commerce, &c. — Departure from Mtirzuk — Visit to Mohammed Boro — Pilgrim Caravan — Desolate appearance of Fezzan — Tribute exacted — ■ Dr. Barth returns to Murzuk, and then proceeds to Tasawa — Departure from Tasawa — Slave Caravan — Mohammed Trumba — Arrival of Mr. Richardson with the Chiefs of Ghat 82

Chapter III

Hatita — Meet a Caravan with Slaves — Perilous adventure of Dr. Barth — Narrow escape from Death — Arrival at Ghat — Negotiation with the Tawarek Chiefs for protection 44

Chapter IV

Departure from Ghat — Visit to Barakat — Utaeti and the Kel-owi join the Caravan — 'Abd-el-Kader — Highest Mountain Pass — Alarming report of Robbers — Servant sick with the Guinea Worm — The Tiny/lkum join the Caravan — Mararraba — Mohammed Boro threatens hostilities — Arrival at Asiu — Approach of an enemy — Great alarm in the Caravan — Three mysterious visitors Shrewd advice of 'Abd-el-Kader — The Slaves' Dance — Strange and suspicious conduct of Didi — Arrival at the frontier of Air or

Asben 53

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Chapter V

Alarm in the Camp — Order of Battle — Leave Taghajit — The party robbed by the Tawarek Freebooters — Mount Asben — The Europeans are offered the alternative of turning Muslims or of being put to death — But escape by submitting to a fresh robbery — Selufiet — Encamp near Tintaghode — A terrible Freshet — Narrow escape of the whole party from being Drowned — Arrival of a new Escort — Arrival at Tintellust, the capital of Air or Asben

— Cost of the Journey 71

Chapter VI

Visit to the great chief A'nnur — His Character — Rain — Mr. Richardson's tent Robbed — 'Abd-el-Kader — Provisions — Dr. Barth sets out for A/gades, leaving Mr. Richardson and Dr. Overweg at Tinte'llust — His unlucky attempt to ride a Bullock — His arrival at A'gades 88

Chapter VII

Dr. Barth in A'gades. — 'Abdallah — Visit to the Sultan of A'gades

— Gracious reception — Visit to Mohammed Boro — Markets of A'gades — Dr. Barth goes to see a national dance : is pursued to his quarters by armed Natives, and has a narrow escape from Death

— Great Festival and Installation of the Sultan — Divan — Warlike expedition projected — Salt Caravan — Expedition resolved on — Visit of Mohammed Boro and Belraji — Fight in Dr. Barth's room

— Dr. Barth takes leave of the Sultan, who gives him letters to other Chiefs — Account of the Expedition of the Sultan of A'gades

— Dr. Barth is visited by some ladies — Remarks on African morals — Conversation with Mohammed Omar on Religion — Hamma gets ready for a start — Prices of goods in A/gades 103

Chapter VIII

Dr. Barth's departure from A'gades — Stay in Tin-te'ggana — Departure for Sudan — The Salt Caravan — A'nnur's present to Dr. Barth — The Tagama — Visit of a Queen of the Desert — Arrival atTagelel 123

Chapter IX

Separation of the Travellers — Dr. Overweg goes to Tasawa — Alarming Letter — Dr. Barth rejoins Dr. Overweg at Tasawa — Dr. Barth answers the Letter — Arrives at Katsena — Visits the Governor — Journey from Katsena to Kan6 1S3

CONTENTS. XXI

Chapter X

Residence in Kano — Finances — Appearance of the Streets of Kano, and the People — Visit to the Governor — Presents — Population, Manufactures, and Commerce of Kano — Its Army, Finances, and Government — Journey from Kano the capital of Hausa to Bornu

— Dr. Barth hears of Mr. Richardson's death, and visits his Grave

— Dr. Barth arrives at Kukawa, the capital of the empire of Bornu, 149

Chapter XI

Arrival in Kukawa — Settling with Mr. Richardson's servants — Visit to the Vizier and the Sheikh — Transactions about Mr. Richardson's property — Giving medicine — Character of the Vizier — He supplies Dr. Barth with money — The Sheikh gives him a horse — Description of A'gades — The Markets — The Great Fair — The People of A'gades — The Women 169