Towards the land of the rising sun, or Four years in Burma

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Contents

A STRANGER IN THE GOLDEN LAND . . 5 THE GOLDEN PAGODA . . . . 13 A BRAVE DEED . . . . . . 21 THE BREAKING OF THE MONSOON . . 25 CHANGES . . . . . ; . 31 ARRACAN HOUSE . . . . . 37 OUR CHILDREN . . . . . . 43 A VISIT TO KEMMENDINE . . . 49 LONELINESS . . . . . . 56 GREAT EXPECTATIONS. . . . 61 SORROWFUL PARTINGS . . . . 69 PROGRESS AND SUCCESS . . . . 75 UP THE RIVER TO HENZADA . . ; 82 IMPORTANT EVENTS . . . . 89 MIDNIGHT VISITORS . . . ; . 96 ANXIOUS DAYS . . . . . 102 A SUNDAY IN RANGOON. ; . - 107 THE SHADOW OF DEATH. . ; . 118 A FALSE ALARM . . . . . . 123 NOT FAR FROM THE CHINESE FRONTIER. 129 THE ROYAL CITY OF MANDALAY . . - 137 THE ATTACK ON THE FORT AND FRIENDS

AT PEGU . . . . . . TAS

FAREWELL TO THE EAST . . . . VR&2

Chapter I A Stranger In The Golden Land

. ELL them that as long as the Sun shines in the Heavens, the British Flag shall wave over these Possessions.”

The words were spoken calmly and firmly by Lord Dalhousie in the presence of the Burmese Envoys who had been sent to Calcutta from the proud and treacherous Court of Ava in December 1854.

They demanded, in the name of their King, the Golden Foot, the restitution of all British possessions in Burma, and Lord Dalhousie’s answer was the “ultimatum ” to their presumptuous request.

And this land, over which the British Flag proudly waved, was to be my home for several years. As the Nowshera steamed up the Rangoon river, one day early in February 1894, I gazed at the surrounding country with the deepest interest.

To the right and left, as far as the eye could reach, stretched the flat country rich in mangroves, palmyras, and other well-grown trees. As we approached Rangoon the centre of attraction became the great dome of the Shwé Dagon Pagoda, which glittered in the fierce rays of the sun.

There is no doubt that a great future lies before this country; in fact it has been said of Rangoon that it “is one of the most rising places in the Kast?

This state of prosperity in Burma must be solely attributed to the firm policy of our Government. In years gone by disquietude and mistrust reigned supreme. At last, after enduring many hardships, the British merchants laid before those in authority the grievous oppression to which they were subjected.

For a time there appeared some hope that reparation would be offered by the Court of Ava for the abuses complained of, but a peaceful termination of the negotiations was frustrated by the King, who had only outwardly assumed a friendly attitude. It is true that the Governor at Rangoon was dismissed and a new Viceroy appointed, but by various means the King was strengthening his position and collecting forces. The Viceroy had come down the river accompanied by over twenty war-boats and a large number of armed men—probably three or four thousand. He occupied a magnificent State barge of oriental splendour, and was received at Rangoon with a magnificent display of loyalty on the part of the Burmans. .

It was evident that peace was not intended, for when he landed he ignored Commodore Lambert and insulted a deputation of English officers. The crisis had now arrived, and all desiring British protection were ordered to leave the city in two hours.

The Commodore offered to recommence negotiations with the Viceroy if he would offer an apology in person to the officers who had been insulted. These peaceful measures having failed, a decisive step was taken by the Commodore, who ordered a ship belonging to the King of Burma, called Yd-theé-yat-moon—“ The most precious jewel of the Ocean”—to be seized. This was done to the great indignation of the Burmese officials.

The Commodore now received a message from the Viceroy saying that if the King’s ship were taken down the river the British frigate would be fired upon. To this the Commodore replied that he much regretted such a message had been sent, for if a shot were fired he would open upon the enemy with his guns.

A STRANGER IN THE GOLDEN LAND 7

Of course the Burmans little understood the position they had assumed, and the power of our gunboats.

Down to the stockades, on the eastern and western banks of the river about ten miles from Rangoon, came our ships, including Zhe most prectous jewel of the Ocean.

The Burmans, who had assembled on the banks in large numbers, were ready to attack us, and alas! fired as they had threatened to do upon the Hermes, which had in tow the King’s vessel. Then, and not till then, we opened fire. Not a single Englishman was killed or wounded ; but at the end of that engagement three hundred Burmans had been destroyed.

When it was too late the Viceroy offered to make peace on any terms, but the matter was no longer in the hands of the Commodore ; our future policy rested with the Supreme Government of India.

A few months later the reign of terror ceased. Three millions of people were at last free from the oppressive Government of the King of Ava, and security for British subjects was assured.

On that quiet Sunday afternoon of my arrival, no royal gilt barges were visible ; they belong to the past history of Burma, and in their places many an outward bound ship, laden with rich cargoes of rice and far-famed teak-wood, rode at anchor.

We hoped to land early, but the tide was in no hurry to gratify our expectations. At last, when patience was nearly exhausted, the Nowshera came to her moorings, and our friends hastened on board to welcome us.

“How late you are!” exclaimed the Chaplain; “the guns went off at two o'clock, and it is six now! Of course it is all the better for landing, because the sun has gone down; but I shall have to drive you quickly to Bishop’s Court, for I have to preach this evening at the Pro-Cathedral, and ought to be there in less than half-an-hour.”

I had not much luggage, but still what ( bad looked too much for the little carriage and tne small

Burmese pony. I have often wondered since how we managed to arrive safely at our destination, and how it was that the pony and the carriage did not part company long before the end of that drive. We simply rushed down the roads, at the imminent risk of killing somebody or something. But when I became more accustomed to the ways of Burmese ponies, I ceased to be astonished at most things that they did.

My recollection of that drive is a strange blending of wide-spreading green trees—green in spite of the fact that no rain had fallen for three months—which formed natural archways, and groups of gaily-attired natives.

The prevailing colour worn by the Burmese population was a soft pink; but there were many phongyees (Buddhist monks) to be seen in flowing yellow robes, which formed a marked contrast.

We passed a number of Chinamen in their broadbrimmed straw hats, short black trousers and jackets to match—an intensely ugly costume with no redeeming point. Then there came in view a crowd of Tamils from Southern India, in their graceful, bright-coloured clothes, talking at the top of their voices, and gesticulating with vehemence. Presently we saw richly-attired Mahometans, who passed with a contemptuous glance the more gentle and subtle Hindoo. Shans from Upper Burma, who are supposed to be the parent-stock of both Assamese and Siamese, in their curious attire of dark blue, sometimes came within sight. And Buddhist nuns, usually old women, with shaven heads and white robes, were not wanting in that motley crowd.

Leaving the Cantonment Church on the right, and a large tank on the left, we entered the drive which led to the Bishop’s Court, a most picturesque building. How cool the broad verandah looked with its choice orchids, luxurious maidenhair ferns, and crotons of every shade.

On the verandah the servants had assembled to welcome me in the absence of the Lord Padre.

“I am so sorry to leave you in such a hurry,”

A STRANGER IN THE GOLDEN LAND 9 said the Chaplain; “the servants have been told to take care of you, and the Bishop and Mrs. Strachan will soon return from church. They have gone to St. Philip’s ; the Bishop preaches there this evening. Good-bye, Sister, and I wish you success in any work you may undertake in this country.”

I was not sorry to have time to realize my new surroundings, so different to anything I had ever seen before.

Beyond the beautiful tropical garden there rose, not far off, a small pagoda with its graceful peak aglow with the radiance of the setting sun.

Later on I used to watch the yellow-robed monks, going there to meditate upon the virtues of Gautama. But while I was admiring the scenes before me the servants had noiselessly disposed of my baggage, and I heard Ayah at my side asking if I would take some tea. She was a handsome Hindoo, resplendent in a gracefully-draped cloth, with much jewellery on her arms and round her neck. Besides Ayah there were several men-servants. David, or Kin David as we liked to call him, was a tall, fine Madrasee, in a spotless white cloth and turban; the latter was probably twelve yards long, with a band of gold which added much to the magnificence of his appearance. David was a Christian, but Paul, the under ‘ Boy,’ was still a heathen, a clever thoughtful servant who invariably accompanied the Bishop on his extensive tours.

Last of all there was the Burmese dusting ‘ Boy’; so called becauise his duties were confined to dusting the handsomely carved furniture which needed much care during the hot weather, and also during the rains. Very different in appearance was this Burmese to the other servants. He wore a pink silk handkerchief loosely round the head, a white muslin jacket with large open sleeves, and a pink “ lungi” falling down to the ankles, but not in graceful folds like the cloths worn by the natives of India.

I discovered before long that it was unusual to employ Burmese servants. Up to the present me the

Burmese men and women have developed little or no desire to be trained for domestic work. Servants from India have therefore been imported, and are in such great demand that they can obtain double the wages given in Madras.

Rangoon is a very expensive place to live in. During my four years’ residence the complaints which reached me upon the subject were endless. House-rent is also very heavy, double again that paid in India.

Ayah led the way up the broad staircase to a suite of rooms set apart for visitors. The venetian windows were all thrown wide open to let in the cooler evening air, but the walls were still hot from the rays of the mid-day sun. Ayah brought me a dainty tray of tea and fruit, and then left me with many “ salaams.”

Darkness had suddenly fallen on all around, and the soft light of the lamp, which had been placed in the little writing-room, was needed before I could begin my letter to the Sisters in England telling them of my safe arrival.

Not a disturbing sound was heard, but as I wrote on, anxious to finish my epistle before the Bishop’s return, I became conscious of some sweet-sounding bells not far distant. I left my writing and peered into the darkness. There in the distance I could see the outline of the pagoda which had attracted my attention earlier in the evening, and I was not long in deciding that the sound of the bells came from that direction.

I was wondering how soon I should grow accustomed to the attractions of this strange and fascinating Jand, when the noise of carriage-wheels coming up the drive roused me from my reverie. Ayah had entered the room, and was telling me that the Lord Padre and Mrs. Strachan had returned and would like to see me.

I frankly acknowledge that I felt extremely nervous at the prospect of this our first interview. My acquaintance with the Bishop up to that time had been limited to a few letters. No Anglican

A STRANGER IN THE GOLDEN LAND II

Sister had ever visited Burma before. In 1890 I had been first asked if I would volunteer for work in this far-distant country, but at that time, although I had willingly consented to start on the long voyage, the climate was considered too unhealthy, and the undertaking was postponed.

And here I must mention, before proceeding further, that from this my first day in Burma, until I sailed for England in March 1898, I received the greatest kindness and consideration from the Bishop. And when difficulties arose, as they naturally did from time to time, I turned instinctively to him for guidance and direction. He had himself a large share of anxious and responsible work, for his Diocese extends from Bhamo, on the Irrawady river, to Tavoy and Mergui in the south, to which must be added the Andaman and Nicobar Islands.

I shall never forget the warm welcome which I received that evening at Bishop’s Court. I was impressed at once by the Bishop’s warm and genuine manner. During my three weeks visit I learnt more and more to appreciate his powerful mind, and the clear, concise information which he gave me upon many subjects. And Mrs. Strachan? She was the true personification of a Bishop’s wife, and possessed a large, kind, sympathetic heart with much intellectual capacity.

A more hospitable house could not be imagined. Visitors were constantly coming and going. Some arrived from Upper Burma, on their way to England; others stayed for a few nights before proceeding to some distant, lonely station. All received a hearty welcome, and left, I feel sure, cheered and refreshed by the kindness showered upon them.

“Really people seem to write to me upon every possible subject,’ remarked the Bishop one morning after looking through his letters. “Here is a young officer at Mandalay, who stayed with us a short time ago, asking me to buy him a good dog\ During the war of Annexation we wanted to cheer the officers 10

Upper Burma, and to let them feel that they were not forgotten ; so Mrs. Strachan made a number of Christmas puddings, and despatched them with messages of good-will. In due time letters of thanks reached us, and one officer wrote :—‘I was far too impatient to wait until dinner-time, so at breakfast I ordered my men to fire a “salute” in honour of the arrival of your welcome present, and then the Christmas fare quickly disappeared !’”

During the next few days Mrs. Strachan was most kind in taking me to see people who might possibly be of assistance to us later on. I have very distinct recollections of those visits. Two facts always seemed to be forcing themselves upon our attention. The houses were prettily furnished with all manner of oriental curiosities, including a variety of Burmese silver bowls, etc, and my kinsfolk complained of thieves paying them midnight visits by crawling noiselessly up the ofen verandah staircase ; doors being almost unknown in Rangoon.

The second fact was that everybody had recently experienced a carriage accident. One gentleman appeared with his head bandaged up, looking like a French chef de cutsine; whilst his wife greeted us with her arm in a sling. Their pony had unexpectedly seen a shadow across the road, and had promptly attempted to take them and their carriage over a closed gate.

But besides these visits the Chaplain most kindly took me to see the new Cathedral which was then in course of erection. It occupies a most valuable site in Pagoda Road, opposite the General Hospital. The Rangoon College for Burmese students stands in an equally favourable position to the right. The Cathedral is built of red brick, the Hospital and College chiefly, but not entirely, of teak-wood.

Attached to the College there is a valuable library, where we spent many hours studying the works of reference.

A STRANGER IN THE GOLDEN LAND 13

There can be no doubt in any thoughtful mind that Rangoon has made most marked progress in the direction of civilization and education since the town first came into the hands of the English in 1824 Then our troops practically took possession of a swamp, with a few miserable wooden houses on piles, and native bamboo huts, Not a single life was lost on that memorable day in May when Sir Archibald Campbell landed his soldiers, and in less than half-an-hour the British flag was hoisted.

But this was not a desirable or satisfactory position to occupy, for only empty houses had come into our possession. The Burmans hid themselves in the dense jungles and refused to supply, at any price, the much-needed provisions for our troops. The monsoon was also daily expected to break, and the rains would continue with little intermission for six long months. And besides those difficulties, it was well known that his Golden-Footed Majesty was making great preparations “to cover the face of the earth with an innumerable host, and to drive back the wild foreigners into the sea from whence they came.”

It is possible now to smile at such audacity.

CHAPTER II THE GOLDEN PAGODA gac—eES HE Bishop was arranging for his departure ¥ §=for England ; he would be absent for at least a year, so that I could not look forward much longer to receiving his kind and wise advice.

From day to day I gathered as much information as possible, and believed that as I had been guided to Burma, so also the future would surely be made plain.

“Would you like to see our girls’ school in the Cathedral Compound ?” asked the Bishop soon after my arrival. “ We will gladly let you have the * afice’

gharri, as it is called, but I am afraid you will find it a terribly noisy conveyance.”

I was extremely glad to carry out the suggestion, and found myself,an hour later, at the school, where I saw for the first time Grace Darling. This high-minded, clever English woman at once made a favourable impression upon me.

“TI have heard all about you from the Bishop,” she exclaimed warmly, as she led the way to the upper verandah which formed a very hot little sitting-room, looking towards the Cathedral. “I am so thankful you have come, for I am going home soon, and have been longing for somebody to carry on the work when I leave.”

“TI am sure you have found the school most interesting,” I remarked.

“Yes, indeed! And I have grown to love the children under my care, and you will do the same; they have so many good qualities, and are naturally clever; in fact in mathematics they are much in advance of English children.”

“Do the resident pupils come from a distance ?” I asked.

“Oh! yes, their homes are many miles away. The long journeys in country carts are very trying for young children. They nearly all spend the hot-weather holidays with their parents. Many of our girls have clever Burmese mothers.”

“Is it true,” I inquired, “that women in Burma occupy quite a different position to women in India?” . “Indeed they do,” replied Grace Darling warmly ; “the women of this country are very independent, and help their husbands in many ways, They buy and sell in the bazaars ; acquire land, and build houses. There is no ‘caste’ question amongst the people of Burma ; money rules and directs position.”

“I am so surprised to find such advanced education in Rangoon because the town has but recently come under our rule,” I remarked.

“ Much has been done in that direction in a short time. The Director of Public Instruction takes the

THE GOLDEN PAGODA 15 deepest interest in the welfare of the country. And now that peace has been maintained for several years the onward progress has been most encouraging.

“This does not look like a large building,” I ventured to say, for it was evident that Grace Darling enjoyed giving any details about her work ; “how do you manage to make room for all the children?”

“We are overcrowded, and it is impossible in such limited space to attempt good discipline. The house would be admirable for the resident pupils, but there is absolutely no space for day scholars. Archdeacon Blythe—now Bishop in Jerusalem—was the energetic originator of the school. Before it was built the girls were educated in the adjoining boys’ school, an arrangement which had many and serious drawbacks, Yes, we want more space very badly.”

I looked up and saw that tears were in her eyes, and yet she was such a brave woman.

“You have done a good work,” I said, “and you will be greatly missed when you do leave.”

“TI should like to see you settled in Rangoon before I sail for England,” she said earnestly.

She was very weary and over-strained, I could see that at a glance; and rest was coming sooner, and in a more tragic way than either she or I could have dreamt of.

“You will be glad,’ she continued, ‘when the Cathedral is finished. It will be a very handsome building. Now we have to walk or drive to the Pro- Cathedral, which is very inconvenient owing to the distance.”

That was by no means the last conversation I had with Grace Darling, and every time I saw her I admired her character more. By degrees I discovered what a deeply religious, earnest-minded woman she was—one who could not fail to spread an influence for good around her.

Together in the cool of the evening we went several times to look at houses which might be suitable for the Sisters.

One building in particular we longed to secure for our future work. It stood in a very central position surrounded by a fairly large compound. The large entrance - hall was particularly attractive; and a -~ handsome staircase led to the upper floor, where we found a spacious centre room, with numerous smaller apartments leading off to the right and left. The modest purchase price was about Rs.35,000. We sighed when we heard this, and agreed the amount was rather beyond us.

“After all there are drawbacks,” said Grace Darling, to console me. “I have never seen such extraordinary baths ; there are simply two small tanks built into the wall on the ground floor, which evidently represent the bathing accommodation of the house. I think they must have been made for Chinamen.”

But in spite of the tanks, and their connection with the Celestials, I never passed that building without regret. We should have been saved several years of anxiety if the property could have been secured at that time. Ultimately it passed into the hands of a rich Burman, who lived in India. His eldest son went to England to eat his dinners at the Temple. The food, I was told, disagreed with his digestive powers, but he came back to the East a member of the Primrose League, which, of course, ranks much higher than a Barrister-at-law of the Inner Temple!

“Will you come to-morrow morning with us to the Shwé Dagon Pagoda?” asked the Mission Priest from Kemmendine; “there is so much to be seen that we must start early.”

I accepted the invitation gladly, for Mr. Rickard would be able to explain the religion of the Buddhists, having lived amongst them for many years. It should never be forgotten that the missionaries in Burma have been the pioneers of civilization. They have lived lives of self-sacrifice far from home and friends, under a tropical sun, simply in obedience to those words which have echoed through many ages, “Go ye, therefore, and teach all nations.”

Certain it is that during our Burmese wars the

THE GOLDEN PAGODA 17 missionaries were frequently used by our Government to further the cause of peace and justice. And they are living now, as their predecessors did before them, devoted lives amongst the different tribes in the jungle, or in the larger centres of civilization.

May they have grace and courage to persevere in their high calling !

In the early morning Mr. and Mrs. Rickard called for me at Bishop’s Court, and we soon found ourselves upon the steps leading up to the Shwé Dagon Pagoda. This was my first visit, and I contemplated with the deepest interest the entrance to Buddha's magnificent shrine. The approach is rendered imposing by two enormous griffins which stand out white and clear against the sky; creatures which on a moonlight night have almost a terrifying appearance.

That early morning no great Burmese festival was going on, but a crowd of Buddhists were ascending the steps, taking with them their offerings of flowers and candles for the shrines, which were yet invisible, on the upper platferm.

An archway of imposing proportions rose over the polished steps which we were about to ascend; and above the archway was seen a peak of exquisite carving, with a background of palm-trees.

Only a few English soldiers were to be seen, fora time of peace had come to Burma. But the Pagoda had been, in past years, the scene of a desperate struggle between a civilized Western nation and a courageous, heroic, but unskilled Eastern people. Maha Bandoola, a remarkable chieftain, appeared at the head of his 50,000 men in December 1824, and was defeated by our British soldiers and loyal sepoys.

But again in 1852 the Shwé Dagon Pagoda was a silent witness of a great conflict. Lieutenant Doran was amongst those who fell that day—he lay near the entrance dying the death of a brave soldier. Our troops, after a desperate resistance on the part of the enemy, gained the upper platform of the Pagoda, and its magnificent site, overlooking the

Irrawady river, fell into our hands for the second tame. SB

Laughing, talking, and jesting, the early devotees of Buddha ascended the well-polished steps—polished by the feet of those who had passed up and down during hundreds of years.

On either side the way was lined with small stalls, upon which were displayed for sale, candles, flowers, and other offerings for the shrines.

Now we passed a group of happy, cheerful, independent women, smoking their enormous cigars, with little brown-skinned children clinging to their mothers’ gay silk attire.

The men, too, dressed like the women, with the exception of the “gaung baung,” seemed bent on enjoying to the full this early morning visit to the Pagoda. The wives whom they have left at home, or who may have accompanied them, are industrious, clever women, and will help them through any financial difficulty.

Did not one of them quite recently buy a plot of land in Pagoda Road, and transform it from a swamp —which it certainly was during the rainy season— into a valuable and healthy site? And was it not Ma Soh who made such a bargain in Mandalay Bazaar, and brought down the goods to Rangoon where she disposed of them at a considerable profit ? And Ma Htoon, too, was getting quite rich by making cigars, and selling them herself. There was no need for her husband to be very active ; he might even spend a day in his little bamboo hut; talk to his friends and enjoy a good smoke without any fear of being scolded in the evening. True it was that they had several children, but the little ones did not need many nor expensive meals, only curry and rice twice a day. And clothes? Oh, they did not cost much either. Was not the sun hot in the dry season ? And in the rains a little oil was better than many garments,

Up the steps we went with the noisy, chattering, good-natured crowd. But when we reached the upper platform an air of solemnity seemed suddenly to fall on all around, and we found ourselves in the midst of

THE GOLDEN PAGODA 19 phongyees and devotees, deep in meditation upon the virtues of Gautama.

As I looked up into the blue, cloudless sky, and saw the golden peak (Shwé means golden) rising far above us, I longed that on the summit might be planted the symbol of Christianity.

Gongs and bells innumerable were sounding in the air, from the peaks and pinnacles round the base of the Pagoda.

“Will these people resent our presence?” I asked Mr. Rickard, looking round at the crowd.

“Oh! no, they do not mind English visitors, there is nothing to fear,” was the reassuring reply. ‘“‘ See, shall we stand under the shadow of this shrine and watch undisturbed what is going on? Look at those Buddhists who are bending low before that image of Gautama, with the benign eyes ; now they are rising and presenting their offerings of candles and flowers.”