A tour in South Africa, with notices of Natal, Mauritius, Madagascar, Ceylon, Egypt, and Palestine

Front matter

.

A TOUR

SOUTH AFRICA,

Chapter I. Page

Arrival at the Cape — Table Bay — Sentiment during my Visit — Political Creed — Illustrations — Convict Question — Moral Feeling of the Colony — General objects of my Mission — Dr. Philip — Union Chapel — Notice of the Colony — Extent, Landed Property — Exports — Cape Town — Seat of Government— Population — Christian Ministry — Press — Preparation for Travelling — Starting for the Interior ... 1

Chapter II

Swellendam, Dr. Robertson — Dutch Emigrant Boers — Zuurbrak, Vagrancy Law— Magistrate's Report — Missionary Remarks on said Report — Industry of the People — Debts — D. Moodie, Esq. — Continuance or Abandonment of Missionary Institutions ? — Opinion of Dr. Philip — Route to Pacaltsdorp — Institution there — Public Meeting — George — Cradock Pass — Gate Kamphoor — Horse Car and Native Driving — Dysselsdorp — Public Meeting — Oudshorn — Mineral Springs — Labour Question — Cango Caverns — Avontuur, Mr. Hood — Anecdote of a Kaffir 16

Chapter III

A Native Ministry — European aid requisite — Hankey Institution, Inundation — Machpelah — Affecting Anecdote — Tunnel Chart— Fertility, a Thousandfold — Native Capacities — Education— Maps wanted — Public Meeting — New Chapel, Church-members and Rules of Church-fellowship — Port Elizabeth — Fingoes — Bethelsdorp — Salt Pan — Thomas Pringle — Native Races — Fears and Hopes — Contributions — TJitenhage — Tea Party — Theopolis — Sufferings from War, 1847 — Graham's Town, Chapels — Hottentot Corps of Cape MountedRifl.es — Canteens 49

Till CONTENTS.

Chapter IV

Notices of the Country — District of Victoria — Neutral Territory — Makomo — British KafTraria — Fort Beaufort — Umxelo — Fingoes — Attack on Fort Beaufort, Death of Hermanus — Difficulties of Missionaries — Messrs. Read — Birklands — Amatola Mountains — Mr. Calderwood — "Alice" — "Lovedale" — Missions in Kaffirland to be prosecuted — Chumie Mountains — Burn's Hill — Loss of Commissariat — Hottentot Courage — Kaffir Character — "Knapp's Hope" — Irrigation — Agriculture superseding War — Limited Locations — AVar breaks out — -King William's Town — Companions — Mr. Brownlee's Losses, no Compensation — Congregation, Desire of Improvement — Colonel Mackinnon — Mount Coke — State of Kaffirland — Hopes — Suspicions — Jan Tzatzoe — Mr. Ross, Perie — Mr. Birt's Station — Young Men's Class — Agricultural Efforts — Class of Native Women — Help from England 83

Chapter V

German Mission Station, Bethel — Madoor's Station, Freemanton — Remedy against Avarice — Treatment of Madoor — Tambookies — Kaffir Argument, Quit-rent — Letters from Madoor — Shiloh, Moravian Station — Self-supporting — Land Cultivated— Attacked in 1847, Major Hogg — Our Allies — Proceed towards the Kat River — Messrs. Read — Letters — Snow Storm — Cold — Night's Accommodation — Roads Difficult — Splendid View — War — Arrival at Philip ton — Mrs. Read . 110

Chapter VI

Rise and Spread of Christianity and Civilization among the Hottentots— The Moravian Mission of 1737 — Appeals of Travellers on Behalf of the Hottentots — Their Military Enrolment — Missionary Institutions after 1795 — Commissions of Jiiquiry — Circuit Courts — Absence of Law — Compulsory Service— Personal Violence — British Settlers in Albany, 1820 — Commission of Inquiry, 1822 — The 50th Ordinance, or Magna Charta of the Hottentots, 1828— Kat River Settlement, 1829 — Parliamentary Committee, 1835-7 — Conduct of the Hottentots in the Kami- Wars, 1835-46 — Their subsequent Treatment, and present Condition . . . .131

CHAPTER VH.

Kat River Settlement — Its Origin — Parties Emigrating thither — Enthusiasm — Freedom — Testimonies — Out-stations — Religious Institutions — Church Government — Schools — Press — Visit to Locations — Scenery — Foliage — Tints — Industry of Natives — Native Hospitality — Geology — Man in Lion's

CONTENTS. IX

page Mouth. — Substitute for Bells — Kat River no Failure — Treatment— Examination of Schools — Printing — Letter to Deputation— Diagrams — Things that are wanting — Scotch Mission — Landscape — Children — Ordination at Tidmanton — Testimonial of Elders and Deacons — Native Improvement — Letter from Van Rooyen ........ 14G

Chapter VIII

Strike, but hear — Memorial to Sir H. Smith — Hottentots at Buxton— Letter from Colonial Secretary — Letter as to Buxton Hottentots — Expulsion of the People — Expulsion of Gona Hottentots — Police Report of Expulsions — The Governor's Commendation — Letter from Mr. C. Brownlee — Letter from the Governor — Letter from Botha to the Governor — Sufferings of the Gona Hottentots — Botha's Letter of Expostulation— Summary of the Case — Cattle Impounded — Irritation of the People — "We are tired of Irritations" — Excitement at Kat River — Excessive Exactions — Causes of Irritation — People's Appeal for Investigation — Letter from the Government— Kat River Hottentots 167

Chapter IX. The Kaffir History

The Kaffir Race — The New Policy introduced by Earl Grey respecting British Intercourse with the Kaffir Race — The Amakosse, or Kaffirs adjacent to the Cape Colony — Their Wars with the Cape Colony — The Kaffir Chief Macomo's Daughter — Influence of British Policy in Kafhrland upon the Interior of South Africa. . . . . . .197

Chapter X

Journey to Cradock — Kaga Mountains — Sir Andries Stockenstrom — Lord Glenelg's System — History of the Colony — True Policy of Great Britain — Cradock Native Congregation — Somerset — Dutch Reformed Church — Milk River — Graaff R,einet — Value of Earms — Rev. Mr. Murray — Journey to Colesberg — Dr. Vanderkemp — An Unexpected Vis-a-vis — Kopjes — Colesberg Town — Congregations — Intemperance — Sagacity of a Dog — Orange River Eerry-Boat Rope broken — Comfortable Prospect — Amiable Wife — Crossing the Stream— Eight-horse Vehicle — Philippolis — Mr. Wright . 214

Chapter XI

Philippolis — Property of the Griquas — Attendance on Sunday- Schools — Education — Public Meeting — Antelopes — Grievances— Ramah — Backhouse — Messrs. Oswell and Murray — Corannas — Leading out the Vaal — Lands to be Irrigated —

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Surveyor's Report — Crossing the River — Grriqua Town — Waterboer — Schools — Bechuana Women — Geology — Artificial Irrigation — Difficulties — Discouragements — Encouragements— Uneasiness as to Lands — Treaties — Alienable and Inalienable Territory — Letter to Earl Grey — Sir Harry Smith to Earl Grey — Remarks on the Letter to Earl Grey — Leaving Griqua Toavii . 228

Chapter XII. Bechuana Country And Bechuana Missions

Daniel's Kuil — Kuruman Fountain — Rev. R. Moffat — Village- Mission Premises — Gardens — Chapel — Murders — Children stolen — Dangers to the Aborigines — Printing Establishment

— Hamhana — Mission Committee — Translations — Native Teachers — Lay Help — Route to Kolobeng — Motito — Migratory Habits — Sitlagole — Superstition — Dress — Desert Country — Matebe — Congregation — Matzilikatze — South African Wars — Wholesale Murder — Mabotsa — The Chief Moselele — Khoodoo — Serpent Worship — Enormous Boa- Constrictor — Kolobeng — Sechele ..... 258

CHAPTER XHL

THE ORANGE RIVER, SOVEREIGNTY.

Explanation of the Name — Extent — History of its Acquisition — Privy Council Report — Colonies, How acquired? — Conquest, Cession, Occupancy — Attorney- General's Opinion — Opinion reconsidered — Variety of Opinions — Einal Arrangement— Power of Legal Fictions — Dancing a Polka — Transformations— Annexation — Colotued Races — Bloem Fontein

— Murder by some Bushmen — Commando — Murderers arrested — Capitally punished — Elopement — Punished with Death — Lvnch Law — Execution of Two Men by Court- Martial— thaba Unchu— Moroko— Platb erg— Noble Kloof —Rev. Mr. Giddy— Thaba Bossio 295

Chapter XIV. The Basuto Country, And French Missions

Early Residence of Moshesh — His Early Struggles — Thaba Bossio— Polygamy — Character of Moshesh — Humanity of his Tribe — Waterboer — Moshesh's Estimate of Waterboer — Comprehensive Views of Moshesh — His Complaints — Treaties made with him — Governor Maitland — Fidelity of Moshesh — Conduct of Government — Moshesh asks Redress— Forced to sign away his Territory — Visit to Moshesh — Conversation with Moshesh — Intelligence of the People — Difficulties of the Missionary — Appeal of Moshesh to Her Majesty — Letter from Moshesh — Letter to Lord John Russell — Sir H.Smith's

CONTENTS. XI

PAGE

Denial — Extent of Territory Lost — Morija — Feelings of the People — Printing-press — Conversion of Libey— Companions separate — Death of Miss Christie — RobertMoffat — Mokuatling — Attack of Corannas — Mission Station — Cannibal Caves — Cannibals watching their Prey — Extirpation of that Horrid Custom — Visit to Bethulia — Carmel — Taking Lions by the Tail — Lion shot and Kid saved — Beersheba — Mr. Rolland — Absence of Children — Cannibalism .... 309

Chapter XV

Journey to TJmpakani, Imparani — Sikonyella — Liebenberg's Vlei — Eland's Pviver — Harrismith — Brick-maker — Lion Skin — Room for Farmers — Horse-sickness — Difficult Ground — Magnificent View — Appearance of the Country — Zoolu Kaffirs — Cascade — Pieter Mauritzburg — Native Population — Farms — Emigrants — Indaleni — Mr. Alison — Civilization — Uysdoorn — Dr. Adams — Character of the Country — D'Urban— Port Natal— The Bar and Bluff— Mr. Holden— Panda — Native Foreigners — American Missions — New Germany— Cotton — Sugar — Leave Natal for Cape Town . . 340

Chapter XVI. Mauritius And Madagascar

Return to Cape Town — Interview with the Governor — Governor's Defence — Inquiry demanded — Murder — Education— Arrival in Mauritius — David Ratsarahomba — Chapel in Port Louis — Services — Former Slaves and Indian Coolies — Madagascar — Moka, Mission Station — Malagasy — David Johns Andrianado — Nouvelle Decouverte — Paoly — Plain Wilhelms — New Chapel — Extinct Volcano — Madagascar — Letter from the Queen — Trade with Madagascar — Origin of Recent Dispute with Madagascar — A Humiliating Exhibition— Native Cruelty — Ships to Madagascar — Dr. Taval — Loss to British Government — Roman Catholics in Mauritius— Church of England — Other Denominations — Influenza 366

Chapter XVII. Ceylon Aden Suez

Leave Mauritius — Galle in Ceylon — Native Canoes — Route to Colombo — Colombo — Bazaar — Betel Nut — Produce — Pearls — Treasures of the Deep — Scenery — Wesleyans in Ceylon — Baptist Mission — Dr. M'Vicars — "Wolfendal — Missionary Meeting — Cotton — Lord Torrington — Prison — Sir Anthony Oliphant — "Haddington" — Voyage to Aden — Aden — Volcanic Appearances of Aden — Population — Sumalfs . .391

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CHAPTER XYIII.

EGYPT.

Arabian Gulf — Passage of the Israelites — Sinai — The Steamer — Suez — Funeral at Suez — Yans for the Desert — Crossing the Desert — Peaching Cairo — Emotions on reaching Cairo — Hotel d' Orient— Pier. Mr. Lieder — Ophthalmia — Turkish Baths — Visit to the Pyramids — Cheops — Second Pyramid — A Xight in a Tomb — Sakhara — Memphis — Torah — Bezateen — Coptic Church — Greek Church — English Episcopal Service — Citadel — Anecdote — Old Cairo — Anecdote — Mosques — General Appearance — Preparations to Visit Palestine — Insurrection at Aleppo — Early Egypt not Idolatrous— Curiosities — Tetrawan — Xew Palace — Heliopolis — Obelisk — Balbeis — Camels — "Wells and Women — Bobbers —El Arish 409