A Tour to South Africa, with notices of Natal, Mauritius, Madagascar, Ceylon, Egypt and Palestine

Preface

In the Autumn of 1848, I was requested by the Directors of the London Missionary Society to proceed to the Cape of Good Hope, with the view of visiting their numerous Missions in South Africa ; and from thence to proceed to the Island of Mauritius, to visit the Missions there ; and particularly to institute in quiries respecting the Native Christians in Madagascar, and the prospects of that still afflicted country. Having accomplished these objects, I preferred to take the Overland Route on my way home, instead of returning by the Cape ; and I accordingly proceeded from Port Louis to Ceylon, where I embarked for Suez. Having passed some little time in Egypt, I visited Palestine, and returned from Beyrut to England, by way of Alexandria and Malta. My Official Report, on the various points of business with which I had been intrusted, as the Society's Deputation, I have presented to the Board of Directors, by whom it is made the basis of conference in appropriate committees.

But numerous friends, beyond those of my own private circle, have kindly expressed the wish that I would publish some account of rny tour, together with a distinct notice of sundry collateral matters that have fallen under my observation. I have, therefore, prepared the following pages for the pi'ess. In doing so, my principal object has been to assist in deepening and extending that interest in Protestant

PREFACE.

. Missions, and the welfare of the aboriginal races, which is already so earnestly cherished by the Christian and intelligent public. In the prosecution of this aim, I have wished to present as large an amount of informa tion as I could, regarding the actual state and progress of Missions in South Africa, and more especially of those connected with the London Missionary Society. The Tour itself could not be accomplished without its fatigue and some inconveniences. But the gratifi cations attending it have far outweighed these ; — the gratification of witnessing many scenes of permanent moral interest, and of mingling with men of great Christian enterprise and benevolence ; — the gratification of trying, at least, to promote the prosperity and hap piness of others ; — the gratification of marking the progress of Christian Missions, and their influence in elevating the Native Tribes of Africa.

In addition to all this, were the frequent charms of scenery and climate, of novelty and variety ; the new aspects under which to view men and customs, laws and institutions, with innumerable facts relative to Colonies and Colo nization, and the condition of the Native Tribes, both in their Aboriginal and Transition state. I kept as ample a journal during my tour as I coidd ; yet I confess, I sometimes found myself too much occupied through the day, and too wearied at its close, to fill the pages as I desired. I have, however, made ample use of it in preparing these pages, and I have thus tried to make my readers feel as though they had been my companions, to go over the ground and witness the scenes I did, to share largely in my pleasures, and to be spared all my inconveniences. This remark will explain the method which I have pursued in the following pages.

PREFACE.

. V I have not given, first, chapters embracing an out line of the route, then some chapters on the state of Missions, and the special objects of my visit, and then finally some notices of incidental matter; but I have endeavoured to blend these together. I go over the route, and endeavour to describe what I found in structive and interesting in it ; I pause from time to time at the Mission Stations, and describe them, and then introduce, wherever it seemed appropriate, notices of whatever I regarded as useful, although incidental and subordinate. Having given an ample " Table of Contents," I have not deemed it necessary to provide an " Index." But it may facilitate a reference to any particular sub ject, if I indicate here the principal matters to which the Chapters are respectively devoted : — The 1st, 2nd, and 3rd Chapters are occupied with, notices of the Colony, and various Mission Stations and Institutions. 4th and 5th Chapters, British Kaffraria and Madoor's Country. 6th Chapter, History of the Hottentots. 7th „ Kat River Settlement. 8th „ Hottentot Grievances. 9th „ Kaffir History. 10th „ Various Towns up to the Orange River. 11th „ Griquas, and Missions among them. 12th „ Bechuanas, and Missions among them. 13th „ British Sovereignty between the Vaal and Orange Rivers. l_th ,, Basuto Country and French Missions. 15th ,, Natal. 16th „ Mauritius and Madagascar. 17th „ Ceylon, Aden, and Suez. 18th „ Egypt. 19th „ Palestine. I have much pleasure in acknowledging the kind response of many friends to my Circular ; but in suba VI

PREFACE.

. scribing to the volume, the wish has been repeatedly intimated that the names should not be published. The pages which the list of names would have occupied, I have filled with details of the " Tour." J. J. F. 4, Douglas Road, Kingsland, 14*A July, 1851. It may be simply due to the Society and myself to say, that the whole of the expenses connected with the indirect portion of my return home through Egypt and Syria, I have met from my private resources. ILLTJSTKATIONS. Frontispiece, Philipton, to face Title-page. Map of the "British Sovereignty," with small Map of South Africa to face page 1 Hankey Institution ... ,,49 Hankey Inundation ... ,,55 A Kaffir and his Wife ... „ 197 Newly-discovered Lake . . „ 287 Mountains in South Africa . . „ 344 Cascade in Natal .... „ 348 Tamatave, Madagascar . . „ 383 Travelling in Egypt ... „ PAGE 1 1G CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Arrival at the Cape — Table Bay — Sentiment during my Visit — Political Creed — Illustrations — Convict Question — Moral Feeling of the Colony — General objects of my Mission — Dr. Philip — Union Chapel — Notice of the Colony — Extent, Landed Property — Exports — -Cape Town — Seat of Government — Population — Christian Ministry — Press — Preparation for Travelling — Starting for the Interior

Chapter II

Swellendam, Dr. Robertson — Dutch Emigrant Boers — Zuurbrak, Vagrancy Law — Magistrate's Report — Missionary Remarks on said Report — Industry of the People — Debts — D. Moodie, Esq. — Continuance or Abandonment of Missionary Institutions ? — Opinion of Dr. Philip — Route to Pacaltsdorp — Institution there — Public Meeting — George — Cradock Pass — ■ Gate Kamphoor — Horse Car and Native Driving — Dysselsdorp — Public Meeting — Oudshorn — Mineral Springs — Labour Question — Cango Caverns — Avontuur, Mr. Hood — Anecdote of a Kaffir

Chapter III

A Native Ministry — European aid requisite — Hankey Institution, Inundation — Machpelah — Affecting Anecdote — Tunnel Chart— Fertility, a Thousandfold — Native Capacities — Education — Maps wanted — Public Meeting — New Chapel, Church-members and Rules of Church-fellowship — Port Elizabeth — Fingoes — Betheledorp — Salt Pan — Thomas Pringle — Native Races — Fears and Hopes — Contributions — Uitenhage — Tea Party — Theopolis — Sufferings from War, 1847 — Graham's Town, Chapels — Hottentot Corps of Cape Mounted Rifles — Canteens CONTENTS. PAGE

Chapter IV

Notices of the Country— District of Victoria— Neutral Territory — Makomo— British Kaffraria— Fort Beaufort— Umxelo — Fingoes— Attack on Fort Beaufort, Death of Hermanus — Difficulties of Missionaries — Messrs. Read — Birklands — Amatola Mountains— Mr. Calderwood — "Alice" — "Lovedale" — Missions in Kaffirland to be prosecuted — Chumie Mountains — Burn's Hill — Loss of Commissariat — Hottentot Courage — Kaffir Character— "Knapp's Hope" — Irrigation — Agriculture superseding AVar — Limited Locations — War breaks out — King William's Town — Companions — Mr. Brownlee's Losses, no Compensation— Congregation, Desire of Improvement — Colonel Mackinnon — Mount Coke — State of Kaffirland — Hopes — Suspicions — Jan Tzatzoe — Mr. Ross, Perie — Mr. Bin's Station — Young Men's Class — Agricultural Efforts — Class of Native Women — Help from England 83

Chapter V

German Mission Station, Bethel — Madoor's Station, Freemanton — Remedy against Avarice — Treatment of Madoor — Tambookies — Kaffir Argument, Quit-rent — Letters from Madoor — Shiloh, Moravian Station — Self-supporting — Land Cultivated — Attacked in 1847, Major Hogg — Our Allies — Proceed towards the Kat River — Messrs. Read — Letters — Snow Storm — Cold — Night's Accommodation — Roads Difficult — Splendid View — War — Arrival at Philipton — Mrs. Read 110

Chapter VI

Rise and Spread of Christianity and Civilization among the Hottentots — The Moravian Mission of 1737 — Appeals of'Travellers on Behalf of the Hottentots — Their Military Enrolment — Missionary Institutions after 1795— Commissions of Inquiry — Circuit Courts — Absence of Law — Compulsory Service — Personal Violence — British Settlers in Albany, 1820 — Commission of Inquiry, 1822 — The 50th Ordinance, or Magna Charta of the Hottentots, 1828 — Kat River Settlement, 1829 — Parliamentary Committee, 1835-7 — Conduct of the Hottentots in the Kaffir Wars, 1835-46 — Their subsequent Treatment, and present Condition . . . .131

Chapter VII

Kat River Settlement — Its Origin — Parties Emigrating thither — Enthusiasm — Freedom — Testimonies — Out-stations — Religious Institutions — Church Government — Schools — Press — Visit to Locations — Scenery — Foliage — Tints — Industry of Natives — Native Hospitality — Geology — Man in Lion's CONTENTS. IX PAGE 167 214 Mouth — Substitute for Bells — Kat River no Failure — Treatment — Examination of Schools — Printing — Letter to Depu tation — Diagrams — Things that are wanting — ScotchMission — Landscape — Children — Ordination at Tidmanton — Testi monial of Elders and Deacons — Native Improvement — Letter from Van Rooyen 146

Chapter VIII

Strike, but hear — Memorial to Sir H. Smith — Hottentots at Buxton — Letter from Colonial Secretary — Letter as to Buxton Hottentots — Expulsion of the People — Expulsion of Gona Hottentots — Police Report of Expulsions — The Governor's Commendation — Letter from Mr. C. Brownlee — Letter from the Governor — Letter from Botha to the Governor — Sufferings of the Gona Hottentots — Botha's Letter of Expostulation — Summary of the Case — Cattle Impounded — Irritation of the People — "We are tired of Irritations" — Excitement at Kat River — Excessive Exactions — Causes of Irritation — People's Appeal for Investigation — Letter from the Government — Kat River Hottentots

Chapter IX. The Kaffir Histoey

The Kaffir Race — The New Policy introduced by Earl Grey respecting British Intercourse with the Kaffir Race — The Amakosæ, or Kaffirs adjacent to the Cape Colony — Then- Wars with the Cape Colony — The Kaffir Chief Macomo's Daughter — Influence of British Policy in Kaffirland upon the Interior of South Africa 197

Chapter X

Journey to Cradock — Kaga Mountains — Sir Andries Stockenstrom — Lord Glenelg's System — History of the Colony — True Policy of Great Britain — Cradock Native Congregation — Somerset — Dutch Reformed Church — Milk River — Graaff Reinet — Value of Farms — Rev. Mr. Murray — Journey to Colesberg — Dr. Vanderkemp — An Unexpected Vis-a-vis — Kopj es — Colesberg Town — Congregations — Intemperance — Sagacity of a Dog — Orange River Ferry-Boat Rope broken — Comfortable Prospect — Amiable Wife — Crossing the Stream — Eight-horse Vehicle — Philippolis — Mr. Wright .

Chapter XI

Philippolis — Property of the Griquas — Attendance on Sunday- Schools — Education — Public Meeting — Antelopes — Grievances — Ramah — Backhouse — Messrs. Oswell and Murray — Corannas — Leading out the Vaal — Lands to be Irrigated — X CONTENTS. PAGE 228 258 Surveyor's Report — Crossing the River — Griqua Town — Waterboer — Schools — Bechuana Women — Geology — Artifi cial Irrigation — Difficulties— Discouragements — Encourage ments — Uneasiness as to Lands — Treaties — Alienable and Inalienable Territory— Letter to Earl Grey — Sir Harry Smith to Earl Grey — Remarks on the Letter to Earl Grey — Leav ing Griqua Town ........

Chapter XII. Bechuana Country And Bechuana Missions

Daniel's Kuil— Kuruman Fountain — Rev. R. Moffat — Village — Mission Premises — Gardens — Chapel — Murders — Children stolen — Dangers to the Aborigines — Printing Establishment — Hamhana — Mission Committee — Translations — Native Teachers — Lay Help — Route to Kolobeng— Motito — Migratory Habits — Sitlagole — Superstition — Dress — Desert Country — Matebe — Congregation — Matzilikatze — South African Wars — Wholesale Murder — Mabotsa — The Chief Moselele — Khoodoo — Serpent Worship — Enormous Boa- Constrictor — Kolobeng — Sechele .....

Chapter XIII. The Orange River Sovereignty

Explanation of the Name — Extent — History of its Acquisition — Privy Council Report — Colonies, How acquired? — Conquest, Cession, Occupancy — Attorney-General's Opinion — Opinion reconsidered — Variety of Opinions — Final Arrangement — Power of Legal Fictions — Dancing a Polka — Transformations — Annexation — Coloured Races — Bloem Fontein — Murder by some Bushmen — Commando — Murderers arrested — Capitally punished — Elopement — Punished with Death — Lynch Law — Execution of Two Men by Court- Martial— Thaba Unchu— Moroko — Platberg— Noble Kloof — Rev. Mr. Giddy— Thaba Bossio 295

Chapter XIV. The Basuto Country, And French Missions

Early Residence of Moshesh — His Early Struggles — Thaba Bossio — Polygamy — Character of Moshesh — Humanity of his Tribe — Waterboer — Moshesh's Estimate of Waterboer — Comprehensive Views of Moshesh — His Complaints — Treaties made with him — Governor Maitland — Fidelity of Moshesh — Conduct of Government — Moshesh asks Redress — Forced to sign away his Territory — Visit to Moshesh — Conversation with Moshesh — Intelligence of the People — Difficulties of the Missionary — Appeal of Moshesh to Her Majesty — Letter from Moshesh — Letter to Lord John Russell — Sir H. Smith's CONTENTS. XI PAGE 309 340 366 391 Denial — Extent of Territory Lost — Morija — Feelings of the People — Printing-press — Conversion of Libey — Companions separate — Death of Miss Christie — RobertMoffat — Mokuat ling — Attack of Corannas — Mission Station — Cannibal Caves — Cannibals watching their Prey — Extirpation of that Horrid Custom — Visit to Bethulia — Carmel — Taking Lions by the Tail — Lion shot and Kid saved — Beersheba — Mr. Rolland — Absence of Children — Cannibalism ....

Chapter XV. Natal

Journey to Umpakani, Imparani — Sikonyella — Liebenberg's Vlei — Eland's River — Harrismith — Brick-maker — Lion Skin — Room for Farmers — Horse-sickness — Difficult Ground — Magnificent View — Appearance of the Country — Zoolu Kaffirs — Cascade — Pieter Mauritzburg — Native Population — Farms — Emigrants — Indaleni — Mr. Alison — Civilization — Uysdoorn — Dr. Adams — Character of the Country — D'Urban— Port Natal— The Bar and Bluff— Mr. Holden— Panda — Native Foreigners — American Missions — New Germany — Cotton — Sugar — Leave Natal for Cape Town .

Chapter XVI. Mauritius And Madagascar

Return to Cape Town — Interview with the Governor — Governor's Defence — Inquiry demanded — Murder — Education — Arrivai in Mauritius — David Ratsarahomba — Chapes in Port Louis — Services — Former Staves and Indian Coolies — Madagascar — Moka, Mission Station — Maiagasy — David Johns Andrianado — Nouvelle Decouverte — Paoly — Plain Wilhelms — New Chapel — Extinct Volcano — Madagascar — Letter from the Queen — Trade with Madagascar — Origin of Recent Dispute with Madagascar — A Humiliating Exhibition — Native Cruelty — Ships to Madagascar — Dr. Taval — Loss to British Government — Roman Catholics in Mauritius — Church of England — Other Denominations — Influenza

Chapter XVII. Ceylon Aden

— SUEZ Leave Mauritius — Galle in Ceylon — Native Canoes — Route to Colombo — Colombo — Bazaar— Betel Nut — Produce — Pearls — Treasures of the Deep — Scenery — Wesleyans in Ceylon — Baptist Mission — Dr. M'Vicars — Wolfendal — Missionary Meeting — Cotton — Lord Torrington — Prison — Sir Anthony Oliphant — " Haddington" — Voyage to Aden — Aden — Volcanic Appearances of Aden — Population — Sumalls CONTENTS. PAGE

Chapter XVIII. Egypt

Arabian Gulf — Passage of the Israelites — Sinai — The Steamer — Suez — Funeral at Suez — Vans for the Desert — Crossing the Desert — Reaching Cairo — Emotions on reaching Cairo — Hotel d'Orient — Rev. Mr. Lieder — Ophthalmia — Turkish Baths — Visit to the Pyramids — Cheops — Second Pyramid — A Night in a Tomb — Sakhara — Memphis — Torah — Bezateen — Coptic Church — Greek Church — English Episcopal Service — Citadel — Anecdote — Old Cairo — Anecdote — Mosques — General Appearance — Preparations to Visit Palestine — Insurrection at Aleppo — Early Egypt not Idolatrous — Curiosities — Tetrawan — New Palace — Heliopolis — Obelisk — Balbeis — Camels — Wells and Women — Robbers —El Arish 409

Chapter XIX

, PALESTINE. KhanJounes — Murder — Retaliation — Gaza — Quarantine — Lazaretto — Mosque — Ashdod — Ramlah — Hill Country — Jerusalem — City Walls — Mosque of Omar — Foundations of the Temple — Valley of Jehoshaphat — Dr. Gobat — Church of the Holy Sepulchre — Literary Society — Pool of Siloam — Ancient Bridge — Mount of Olives — Gethsemane — Bethany — Solomon's Pools — Hebron — Pilgrims — Machpelah — Mamre — Bethlehem— Gilgal — Jericho — Jordan — Greek Christians — Dead Sea — Naby Moyse — Cisterns in Jerusalem — Supplies of Water — Mohammedanism — Leave Jerusalem — Bethel — Anathoth — Shechem — Jacob' s Well — Ebal — Gerizim — Sebast£ — Jenin — Esdraelon — Nazareth — Mount Tabor — Lake of Tiberias — City of Tiberias — Magdala — Mount Hermon — Thorns and Thistles — Condition of Women — Baneas — Silkworms — Druses — Damascus — Missionaries at Damascus — Mohammedanism — Romanism — Outbreak at Aleppo — Jews at Damascus — Zebedane — Baalbec — Immense Block — Difficult Travelling — Zachle — Malaka — Hail, Snow, Ice — Beyrut — Alexandria — The "Ripon" — Arrival at Southampton — Reach Home — Directors — Papal Aggression — Summing up — Conclusion

Chapter I. Arrival At The Cape

— TABLE BAY SENTIMENT DURING MY VISIT — POLITICAL CREED ILLUSTRATIONS CONVICT QUESTION MORAL FEELING OF THE COLONY GENERAL OBJECTS OF MY MISSION DR. PHILIP UNION CHAPEL NOTICE OF THE COLONY EXTENT, LANDED PROPERTY EXPORTS CAPE TOWN SEAT OF GOVERNMENT POPU LATION CHRISTIAN MINISTRY PRESS PREPARATION FOR TRAVEL- LING^ STARTING FOR THE INTERIOR. Amidst the kindest adieus and wishes, I left home in November, 1848, and embarked at GravdSend for Table Bay, on board the " Lady Flora," Capt. Eagles. A little detained against our will, by unfriendly breezes in the channel, we did not lose sight of the land we loved, till near Christmas. A favourable passage brought us, in the course of February, to the termination of our voyage. We came to anchor at night, at some little distance from the town. The morning ushered in the magnificent view of Table Mountain, towering in undiminished strength and grandeur, 4000 feet above the level of the ocean ; and there lay scattered before us, the shipping, outward and homeward bound, riding in the Bay ; and there the town itself, spreading out along the margin of the Bay, and rising in the back ground to the foot of the mountain.

This was not my first visit to South Africa. I had been to Cape Town twice previously : once during my mission to Madagascar, in 1830, and again on my way to England, in 1836. The scene from the deck of the vessel, which I was now quitting, was therefore not new to me. But it, B ABEIVAL AT THE CAPE. had lost none of its charms. It can lose none. There is a boldness, grandeur, and sublimity about the Cape, of which the voyager never becomes weary, and every object is on a large scale. Table Mountain is lofty, " girded with power," — the range of mountain of which it is a goodly por tion, vast and extensive. — the dense rolling white cloud on its summit, pouring over its front, and dissolving as it reaches a more genial current of air, awfully grand, — the Bay forming a noble sweep, — and at times the ocean itself rolling in with most magnificent impetuosity.

All these have a voice ; they utter forth the greatness of the Creator, and his goodness in forming and decorating such a splen did globe for the habitation of man. I was soon on shore, and amidst familiar scenes and friends. Here my commission commenced, and I found ample occupation in discharging the various services for which I had gone out to the colony as a deputation from the London Missionary Society. It may be candid to state at once the aspect under which I viewed the various matters that came under my observation, and the prevailing sentiment which I carried with me, or wished to cany with me, in all my engagements, and throughout all my tour. I went out, not to visit South Africa as a politician, a diplomatist, a merchant, a hunter, or an adventurer. I went out as the representative of a Missionary Society, prepared, indeed, to hear remarks on all subjects, and from all quarters ; anxious to see all that might be deemed of general interest, to collect information from all authentic sources, to exercise my own judgment and a Briton's liberty of expressing my opinions ; but I was mainly occupied with the great interests of humanity and Christian Missions.

I travelled among the civilized and the uncivilized the learned and the rude— and I felt everywhere confirmed in the sentiment, in which I am persuaded my readers heartily concur, that while Christianity is essential to the highest and permanent prosperity of nations, it is not less so to the POLITICAL CREED. civilizing process and gradual elevation of the Aboriginal Baces, and to the safe and steady advance of colonial depen dencies in their progress towards ultimate greatness, power, stability, and self-government. My political creed is, that "Righteousness exalteth a nation," and that every departure from rectitude deterio rates and debases a community. Christianity, the clearest and latest development of essential and immutable right eousness, enforces on every man " to do unto others as he would others should do to him;" a safe and comprehensive maxim, that summons into action the first and deepest principles of human nature, and guides that action so as to subserve the universal well-being of society.

The in stinctive love of our own welfare is constituted the rule of our intercourse with others ; and the only restraint on our liberty, is the innate and salutary dread of suffering evil ourselves ; for the converse of the maxim is as true as the rule itself — We may not do to others what we are unwilling they should do to us. When governments and their subjects become thoroughly imbued with this practical Christianity, nations will assuredly realize more harmony and prosperity than the pen of history has yet recorded, and the world will reap a richer harvest of " peace on earth and good-will among men," than prophets have fore told, or poets sung. These observations appear to me to apply to our Colo nies with an augmented force. If in the matured and consolidated community, Christianity alone constitutes the healthful and conservative principle, so in our younger colonial communities, amidst their freshness, boldness, and comparative inexperience, the controlling, guiding, elevating influence of Christian principle is so much the more needed, just as, in the season of the buoyant passions of youth, a more vigorous, faithful, and guardian watch is required than in the already sobered and well regulated man of calm and meridian age.

Various illustrations of these remarks fell under my MORAL FEELING OF THE COLONY. observation at the time of my arrival in the colony in the spring of 1849. In some cases, it was the treatment of the Colony by the Home Government that arrested my notice ; in others, projected measures of the local Govern ment ; and in others the treatment of the border tribes by the Governor as High Commissioner. There seemed to me a stretch of authority, an arbitrary exercise of power, in compatible with the golden rule of equity, — a want of lofty, noble, and generous principle. There were several grave questions afloat at that time : the obtaining a " Constitution" from the mother country, that the colony might be fairly self-governed ; another was, a " Vagrancy law ; " but the great excitement that prevailed respected the admission of convicts from Great Britain, and the dread of its being a plan of the Imperial Govern ment to convert the colony into a penal settlement.

The strong moral and religious seeling of the colonists. there can be no doubt, was the means of saving it from the deterioration or destruction that would else have been inevitable. The proposed measure was strongly resisted, if not by "vi et armis," yet by all constitutional measures, almost to the very " edge of legality." The most judicious and right-hearted men in the colony felt that they had strong reasons for opposing the measure. They thought that the extensive and ever-widening surface of the colonv, with a sparse population — the comparative distance of the seats of magistracy from one another, and the consequent facility of escape to evil-doors — the easily excitable mate rials of the population on the colonial borders, and the immense mischief that a few ill-disposed, but talented " ticket-of-leave" men might effect, were ample grounds of objection to the measure.

The resistance of the colonists did not originate in any spirit of vexatious opposition to the Home Government — for the colony is most loyal nor in any unfilial desire to embarrass the mother country in the disposal of its convicts ; nor had it any mere party purpose to serve. It was the honest moral feeling of the GENERAL OBJECTS OF MY MISSION. 5 colony that was aroused. The dread of an impending danger, the extent of which the colonists thought could not be overrated, created the invincible resolution to avert an evil of such portentous magnitude, before it actually burst on the colony. Great honour is due to the public press of the colony for the lofty moral tone which it assumed on the occasion, and which at once guided and expressed the public sentiment. That sentiment obtained ultimately an honourable issue.

The Government of Great Britain yielded to the clearly expressed voice of the colony, as a wise government will not fail to do, when that sentiment commends itself, as it did in this case, to the im partial consciences of men as the expression of truth and equity, humanity and sound policy. It may not be unsuitable to introduce here a brief extract from the Letter of Instructions with which I was furnished by the Directors of the London Missionary Society, in relation to my present tour : — " The general objects of your mission are expressed in the following ' Resolution of the Board,' on which your appointment has been founded, namely : — " To devise means for rendering Missions in the Cape Colony more efficient — to inquire into the best means of economising the administration of the Society's funds in their support — to aid in carrying into execution any in structions the Board may form regarding new arrangements of its Missions there — and to report on the whole question of the appointment of a successor to Dr. Philip."

From this extract it will immediately appear that one of my earliest steps on reaching the colony would be, to com municate freely with Dr. Philip himself. And this, I am thankful to say, I had the privilege of doing. I had long known and always revered that eminent man. While yet myself a student for the ministry, thirty-five years ago, I had enjoyed his friendship, and the lapse of years had but enlarged and confirmed my estimate of his worth. The more I came to understand of Christian Missions, the more DR. PHILIP UNION CHAPEL. sound and comprehensive appeared to me the views of Dr. Philip. He has been a man of shrewd and philosophic observation, in all that pertains to the history and ad vancement of Christianity in the world. No man better understands the theory of Missions. He has brought to that subject a large amount of previous reading and deep thinking.

His correspondence on that subject has been of immense value. When he shall have finished his course and entered his rest, I fear no " autobiography" will be found to fill up a portion of the vacuum. But I believe materials will exist, and some one competent to use them aright will be found, that our invaluable conductor of South African Missions, though dead, may yet speak. The venerable Doctor Philip I found greatly enfeebled in health, but retaining an undiminished interest in all that pertains to the kingdom of God among men. In capable of bearing any longer the burden and responsibi lities of office, as Superintendent of the Society's Missions in South Africa, he had, for a long time, .urged on the Directors to make such arrangements as might relieve him, and yet secure the welfare of the Missions.

That arrangement, I indulge the hope, has been satisfactorily effected. Dr. Philip has retired to Hankey, near Port Elizabeth, where, in the bosom of the surviving members of his family, he may pass, amidst the kindest sympathies and the scenes of usefulness in which he still loves to associate, the evening of his valuable life, — full of faith, and fervent in prayer, as in his earliest days, and often illustrating the sentiment of Herbert, of which he frequently reminded me when conversing with him — The soul's dark cottage, battered and decayed, Lets in new fight through chinks that time has made. The pulpit of Union Chapel, Cape Town, had been for some time vacant. The congregation was anxious to obtain a minister. While desirous that he should devote as much of his time and energies to the service of the NOTICE OF THE COLONY. 7 Missionary Society as might be compatible with the faithful discharge of his pastoral duties, they were not willing to regard the latter simply as an appendage to the office of an agent or superintendent of the Society's Missions.