A tour around Ireland, through the sea-coast counties, in the autumn of 1835

Preface

In submitting to the Public a brief account of a Tour made last autumn through the sea-coast counties of Ireland, I may state that the object, of my visit was chiefly to see as much of the oft-proclaimed physical beauties, — the surpassing verdure of surface and fertility of soil — the lakes and mountains — the cultivated and embellished landscapes of the " Emerald Isle/' — as a limited period of time would afford me the means of doing ; at the same time to take a passing glance at the general and external appearance and condition of the great mass of the population. Beyond these points I was well aware that want of time would make it impossible for me, on the present occasion, to go a single step. I had once intended to illustrate my little volume with sketches of some of those ruined remains of ancient castles and abbeys

PRK1- ACK.

that arc thickly scattered over the surface of Ireland ; hut I soon found that any attempt beyond that of a few outlines of the humble dwellings of the peasantry would entirely frustrate the plan I had laid down, by occupying too much of my time; but the reader will be more than compensated for the want of my indifferent sketches, by a few characteristic etchings from the graver of one whose knowledge of Ireland is surpassed only by his skill in expressing it.

I have avoided — as much as it is possible in Ireland to avoid — the all-engrossing topics of Religion and Politics, the difficulty of doing which is increased *inee they have become so intimately intermixed. For the one, I trust I shall always feel a proper respect, whatever the creed of its professors may be — Christian, Jew, or Mahomedan — provided they act up to the precepts of the religion they profess, and do not convert it into an engine of dissension and oppression ; but if the Ministers of the Christian Religion, be they Protestant or Papist, degrade themselves into political partisans — if they prostitute their sacred functions to such unworthy and inconsistent purposes, and desecrate their temples into theatres for the display of their political

PREFACE.

Ill animosities, and their altars for the denunciation of those who may differ fiom, or displease them, they render themselves, in my opinion, fit objects for public censure and animadversion.

With regard to Politics, the thorough dislike I have to engage in party discussions anywhere will secure me against coming in collision with conflicting parties in Ireland, — being equally indifferent as to Whig or Tory. I have my feelings both as regards Religion and Politics, and probably feel as warmly on both, as young men are generally apt to do ; but however difficult it may be, particularly in Ireland, to restrain those feelings, I trust it will not be found that, in any statement of facts or opinions made herein, I have transgressed the bounds of propriety.

I have been induced to preserve the form of letters, the substance of which were, in point of fact, written to my family from notes made daily in the progress of my tour : much, of course, has been omitted from, and more, perhaps, added to, the original letters, to render them better suited to the public eye.

Letter I. From London To Belfast

Page

York Cathedral — Penrith — Netherby — Dumfries — Port Patrick — Donaghadee — The Marquess O'Neill — First impression — Lough of Belfast— The Jaunting-Car — The Widow and her Son — Difference in the Appearance of the Verdure of Ireland and England — Arrival at Belfast 1

Letter II. Visit To Antrim And Shanes' Castle

R oute to Antrim — Country near Belfast — Massereene Castle— Shanes' Castle— Murder of Earl O'Neill in the Rebellion of 1798 — Grounds of Shanes' Castle— Great extent of Territory — Moving Bog — Lough Neagh — Fishery and Fish — River Bann — Round Tower — Miss Beaufort's Opinion respecting it — Danish Forts, or Raths — Favourable Appearance of the People . .14

a 3

CONTENTS.

Letter III. Belfast

Pago

An unusual Disturbance — Orangemen and Catholics — Military called out — Fatal result — Imprudence and impolicy of such Disturbances — Belfast a Commercial and Manufacturing Town — Population — Low Situation of — Environs— The Bay of Belfast — Improvements suggested ; as to its Navigation, Docks, &c. — Change of the Packet-Stations— Cotton and Linen Manufactures — Chief Exports and Imports . . . . . .33

Letter IV. From Belfast To Ballycastle

Abuse in overloading the Mail-coach with Passengers — Carrickfergus — Lame — New Coast-road — Cutting down the Limestone Cliff's — Valley and Town of Glenarm — New School — Castle — Mr. Macdunnell — The Deer Park — Road passes over the Hill of Cloony — Liberality of Mr. Turnley — Cushendall — Elevation of New Road above the Sea — Cushendon and General O'Niell — Ballyvoy — Benmore, or Fair-head, Formation of — Arrival at Ballycastle . 47

Letter V. From Ballycastle To Coleraine

Town of Ballycastle — Projects of Mr. Boyd — Ancient Collieries— Partially Worked — Swinging Bridge of Carrick-a- Rede — Pleaskin Promontory — Formation of Giant's Causeway— Its Structure — Singularity of, in the Angles of the Polygons — Variety in the Formation of the Joints or Articulations— Dimensions of the Causeway — Grand View of Pleaskin from — Specimen of Irish Feeling — Port du Spagna, and Note on the Spanish Armada — Bush Mills — "Whin-dykes — Portrush — Dunluce Castle — O'Halloran's History . . . . . .69

CONTENTS.

Letter VI. From Coleraine To Londonderry

Page

Town of Coleraine — The River Bann and Salmon Leap — Catholic Chapel and other Public Buildings — Pleasures of a public Jaunting-Car — Tl e Road — Limavady — First apieaiance of Lough Foyle and Deny — City of — The London Society — Brief Account of the Memorable Siege of Londonderry — Commemoration of the Event — Population of the City and County . . . .88

Letter VII. From Londonderry To Enniskjllen

Mail- Coach — Strahane and LifTord — Castle Finn — Sterile Country — Gap of Barnosmore — Mistake respecting Rapin — Donegal — View of the Atlantic — M'Swine'sGun — Ballyshannon — Salmon-leap — Specimen of Irish Travelling — Arrival at Enniskillen . . . . .111

Letter VIII. Enniskillen And Lough Erne

Meet with an Old Friend — Description of Enniskillen — Of the Upper Lough — Of the Lower Lough — Its height above the Sea — Soundings — Nature of the Shores — Objects of the Survey — Castle Coole — Florence Court — Lord Enniskillen's Race-ground — Devenish Island — Round Tower and sculptured Human Head — Ruined Church — Ely Lodge — Lough Derg, and View of — Take leave of my Fiiends — and of the Province of Ulster — General View of — Advantages over other Provinces . . .127 viii

CONTENTS.

Letter IX. From Ennxskillsn To Sligo, Boyle, Castlebar And Westpoet

Page

A Hurricane — Effects of it on Lough Erne — Poverty of the Cottagers — Sligo — Hazlewood and Holywell — Excellent Road — Ballisadere — Division of the Waters — Loughs Gara and Key — Boyle — Rockingham House — Route towards G'astlehar — Ballaghaderreen — A Fxineral Procession — Mud Cahin — Difficulty of ohtaining a Conveyance — Swineford — Gentleman's House on a Bog — Miserable Lodgings — A Cart for a Car — A Pig-driver — The Carter — Castlebar — Westport .... 148

Letter X. Westport

The Post-Office— Visit to Mount Browne— the Inn of Westport — Lord Sligo's Demesne — Extempore preaching — Lord Sligo's Mansion and Park — Miserable Hovels — Excursion to the Summit of Croagh Patrick — View from thence — Bol) of the Reek — Representations of Famine and Disease not always accurate — Mission of Sir John Hill to afford Relief to the Poor of Mayo and Galway — Wretched System of Land-letting — Miserable State of the Peasantry in consequence thereof — Deplorable Condition of the Labourers — their Hovels . . . .171

LETTER XL WESTPORT TO TUAM AND CLYDAGH HOUSE.

Road to Tuam, through Castlebar — A Four-horsed Coach — A singular Character — Tuam — Roman Catholic Chapel — Dr. M'Hale — Achill Mission — Attempted Destruction of, by M-Hale — His Letter to the Bishop of London — Extract of a Letter, describing M'Hale' s Visit — Description of the Mission, and Character of Mr. Nangle — Proceed to Clyddgh House by Head ford . . . #196

CONTENTS.

ix

Letter XII. Connamara

Pa<,re

Cross Lough Corrib — Oughterarde — Martin's Gatehouse — Flynn's half-way House — Miss Flynn — Arrival of Company— Failure in getting up a Dance — Ballinahinch — Roundstone and Biterbuy Bays — Mountains of Maam Turk and the Twelve Pins — Clifden — Journey to Lenane — The Killery — Residence of Big Jack Joyce — now a Member of a Temperance Society — The use of Whiskey necessary — Address to — Singing Party — Trait of kind Feeling in Joyce — His anxiety to give his Children a good Education — Origin of the Joyces — Joyce's Kitchen — Detention by the Weather — Further Conversation — Departure for Maam Lodge — Wretched State of the Peasantry — in their Dress and Hovels — Recross Lough Corrib from Maam Lodge — Arrival at Clydagh . • , .216

Letter XIII. Clydagh To Galway

Description of Clydagh — Cargin Castle — The Cargin Property— Tenure of Land — Education — Maynooth Clergy — Power of the Priesthood — Ross Abbey — Galway — Appearance of — Population — Presentation Convent — Bay of Galway — The Fishery — Schemes for Rail-roads to Black-sod Bay. Galway, and Valentia — Shipwrecks on the West Coast — Note on the wrecked Ships of the Spanish Armada 249

Letter XIV. Galway To Limerick

Stony Country — " Dry Lodgings" — Gort — Terry Alts — Ennis and Clare — Limeiick, Old and New Towns — Improvement— Population — Criticism on " First Flower of the Earth/' &c. — Growth and extent of Bogs — Wood, Animals, and animal Fat found in — A House discovered in — Consumption and probable duration of Peat from Bogs . 277

X

CONTENTS.

Letter XV. Limerick To Killarney

Page

Castle Island — Bianconi's Cars — Killavney and its Crowds — View from Ross Castle — The u Kenmare Arms " — Tour round the Lakes — Dunlow Gap — The Purple Mountain — View of M'Gillicuddy's Reeks, &e. from the Summit of — The Three Lakes — Muckross Abhey and Domain — Burying-ground of Muckross, and Legends — Dimensions of the Lakes — compared with those of Lough Erne — Baneful effects of Politics — An absent Waiter — Eagles and Dumb Boy . . . . . . .298

Letter XVI. Killarney To Cork

Town of Maeromp — Beautiful Approach to Cork — Dinner at the Mansion-house — Cork in its early State — Canals arched over — Marshes drained — Irregularity of Buildings —Public Edifices— The County Jail— Excellent Regulations of — Black Rock — Dundanion Castle — Banks — Dress — Equipages — The Institution — Excursion down the Lee —The Harbour of Cove— Yacht Club and Yachts— The Didon French Frigate — Population — Visit to Blarney Castle — The Blarney Stone — Return to Cork — Departure for Castle Martyr . . . . .319

Letter XVII. Cork To Youghal, Waterford, And Wexford

A Pretty Beggar-Girl — Middleton — Castle-Martyr — Political Coaches — Youghal — Walter Raleigh — Lismore — Cappoquin and Trappists — Dungarvon — Election, Anecdote of — Copper-Mines — Funeral Procession — Keeners — Punch and Porter Houses — Gows and Polheens — Quarrelling and Fighting constitutional — Patron Day — Wraterford — Curroughmore — The Young Marquess — Absentees — Wexford — The Bloody-Bridge — Catholic College — Population . 338

CONTENTS.

xi

Letter XVIII. From Wexford Through The Wicklow Mountains To Kingstown

Page

A meritorious Beggar — Gorey — Courtown — The Valley of Avoca — Meeting of the Waters — Castle Howard — Lake Glendalough — The Seven Churches — A singular Guide — St. Kevin and the Skylark — Misappropriation of Words — Roundwood — Devil's Glen — Luggelaw — Powerscourt — Enniskerry— The Gap of the Scalp— The Dargle— The Glen of the Downs — Bray — Kingstown . . . 359

Letter XIX. List Of Plates

1. A General Map of Ireland, with Route

2. An outside J aunting-Car in a Storm . -v Frontispiece

3. The Ruined Abbey and Round Tower on I and

Devenish Island . . .J Title Page.

4. M ap of Communication between Scotland and

Ireland . . , to face page 45

5. A Swineford Car . . . do. 167

6. Interior of a small Farmer's Cottage . do. 195

7. The Funeral Procession of a Farmer . do. 346

8. Patron Day. Sketch taken at Ronagues Well,

near Cork .... do. 350

9. Missionary Settlement on Achill Island . do. App. 24

Illustrative wood-cuts on the letter-press pages.

PubUshid. by JohnMujTay.MbtiTWTUStrcaMaich 2S"M83t!.

TOUR

ROUND

IRELAND,

Letter I. From London To Belfast

York Cathedral — Penrith — Netherby — Dumfries — Port Patrick — Donaghadee — The Marquess O'Neill — First impression — Lough of Belfast— The Jaunting-Car — The Widow and her Son — Difference in the Appearance of the Verdure of Ireland and England — Arrival at Belfast.

Belfast, 29th August.

Having, as you are aware, promised my young friend, Frederick Graham, that I would pay him a visit at Netherby, my intention being to proceed from thence to Port Patrick, with the view of crossing over to Ireland, in which country I had determined on making a little tour, I proceeded the day I left town, as far as Stamford ; here I slept, and from thence went on to York, and devoted a day (Sunday) to inspect the Minster, that splendid specimen of Gothic architecture, to which it may be doubted whether an equal is to be found in this or in any other country.

I attended the morning service, the celebration

B

LONDON TO BELFAST.

[Letter I.

of which I thought was more impressive than it generally is in cathedrals, and the music exceedingly line; but the powers of the grand organ were displayed to greater advantage in the afternoon, when I had the good fortune to hear an anthem performed by the celebrated Dr. Camidge, one of the first organists. I believe, in this kingdom. On viewing the various architectural designs, the attention is naturally directed towards that pail of the Minster which wTas destroyed by fire about six years ago, but which has been admirably restored, piece for piece, with the most exquisite workmanshin, by the late Mr. Scott, who lost his life by a fall from the scaffold, just as he had completed a work, which will ever reflect the greatest credit on his diligence and skill. It is to be hoped that the chapter will mark their sense of the merit of Mr. Scott by erecting a tablet to his memory, with a suitable inscription, in this part of the Minster.

The following day I proceeded to Carlisle, where I slept, and next day pursued my journey to Netherbv. On crossing Stein Moor we encountered one of the heaviest falls of rain I ever remember to have been exposed to, even in the Lapland mountains. The water literally fell as though it

had been discharged from the bursting of a water- 's ©

spout ; but, fortunately, I was well provided against it by the friendly cloak of Mr. M'Intosh.

Passing through Penrith, the coachman, with

Letter I.]

LONDON TO BELFAST.

whom I was seated on the box, (my usual place when I can obtain it,) pointed out to me, by way of encouragement I suppose, the place where a few days previous the Manchester mail was overturned on descending the hill, in consequence of the horses taking fright at the lightning, which at the time nickered along the road. An unfortunate young gentleman, who was on the coach-box, was killed on the spot, and he was this day buried, two of his brothers having come to Penrith to perform this last melancholy duty.

I spent three very pleasant days at Netherby, the splendid seat of Sir James Graham, who is enlarging and beautifying the mansion, which stands in a well-timbered park, with the river Esk running through it, and is part of, and surrounded by, a demesne of not less than twenty-seven thousand acres, forming on one side the boundary-line between England and Scotland. I much regretted that the period to which I was limited would not permit of my remaining longer in so delightful a place, and where I received so much kindness from Sir James and Lady Graham. I made the best of mv time, however, in scouring the neighbouring country with my friend Graham.

We one day paid a visit to honest John Linton, the landlord (but not a blacksmith) of " Gretna Hall " hotel, Gretna Green, but, unfortunately, this noted character was away from home ; the room, how • ever, was shown to me in which the marriage cere-

b2

LONDON TO BKLFAST.

[ Letter I.

mony is usually performed, always in presence of a proper number of witnesses, "after the manner of the laws of the Church of England, and agreeably with the laws of Scotland," as the certificate avers. A register of the marriages is regularly kept; and it is not a little amusing to pore over the names of the happv couples which have been tied up at this spot. I observed that the greater number of the fugitives to this temple of Hymen were from the northern counties of Ireland — from Derry in particular. We also rode over to Penton Linns, a part of the extensive property of the Duke of Buccleugh. The walk by the side of the river Liddell, which here runs foaming over its rocky bed, and through a deep well-wooded glen, in which the larch was predominant, reminded me strongly of similar Norwegian scenery, but of course far less gigantic.

It was on the morning of the 28th of August that I left Netherby at day-break, and proceeded to Gretna, quite alone I assure you, and for no other purpose than to await the arrival at that place of the mail for Port Patrick; and being lucky enough to secure an outside berth, I arrived at the end of my day's journey about bedtime. From Dumfries to Port Patrick the mail is drawn by two horses only, and during one of the stages (that into Newtown Stewart) a runaway mare, with a broken jaw, was harnessed to the coach, consequently there wras no bit in her mouth, and she was driven in this cruel and dangerous manner, totally

LONDON TO BELFAST.

unmanageable, and galloping furiously without any restraint down the hills. I could not help observing to the driver that this was discreditable to His Majesty's Post-office Department, and highly reprehensible in the contractor, as by such an intractable animal the lives of the passengers were placed in great and imminent jeopardy.

Finding that the steam-packet, which was to carry the mail, would not put off till the following morning, I availed myself of the delay to get a night's rest at Port Patrick. I had taken with me a letter from Sir James Hay, of Glenluce, to Lieut. Fayrer, who commands the Spitfire, one of the Post-office packets which runs between Port Patrick and Donaffhadee, and on delivering it the following morning I received from this officer every possible attention and civility. The weather was fine, and the passage of twenty-two miles occupied exactly two hours and twenty minutes, the pleasantest voyage, I may safely say, because the shortest, that I have ever made at sea. On landing at Donaghadee, I proceeded to the hotel, where I had not been long before Lieut. Fayrer called to inform me that the Marquess O'Neill, Lord Lieutenant of Antrim, was in the town, having come for the purpose of sea-bathing ; and to say that he should be glad of the opportunity of introducing me to his lordship. He did so accordingly, and nothing could be more courteous and civil than the reception I met with from this kind-hearted and amiable nobleman.

LONDON TO BELFAST.

His lordship expressed himself most desirous to u le nil his influence in the county of Antrim to aesist me in the objects which I had in view; and regretted that he could not be himself at Shane's Castle to receive me; but the next best thing he could do would be to give me a letter to his housekeeper, directing her to furnish me with bed and board as long as it might suit me to stay ; and he also grave me a letter of introduction to his brother, General O'Neill, who resides at Cushendun on the north-east coast, at no great distance from Fairhead and the Giants' Causeway.

Having taken leave of Lord O'Neill and Lieut. Fayrer, with my acknowledgments to the latter for his kindness and civility, I mounted, for the first time, a vehicle, which you, as well as myself, have often heard of, namely, a jaunting-car, — but which neither of us, I believe, had ever seen. I shall, therefore, endeavour to give you a sketch of this article of universal use, as I am assured it is, in Ireland, that you may be prepared for the mode of travelling when you visit this country, which to the traveller is a matter of no slight importance. I was told, however, that they were of two kinds. " Would your honour plase to have an inside or an outside car ?" " My good fellow, let me know what the difference is, and I will then tell you." " The difference, sure, is this : — the inside car has the wheels outside, and the outside car the wheels inside.1' After this luminous exposition, I thought

Letter I.] LONDON TO BELFAST.

it best to see them., and made choice of an outside one, which I will endeavour, by the double aid of pen and pencil, to make you comprehend, that you may know what sort of thing the usual machine of the country is, for the conveyance of passengers. There are, it is true, dandy-cars in Ireland as we have dandy-cabs in England — but of these I speak not.

An outside car then is this ; — a platform or floor of a few boards has two sides, which are raised up and down on hinges — raised, for no other use that I can see, except it be to crease the wheels. These sides are of canvass stretched on wooden frames, which drop from the ed^e of a seat, and have a footboard at the bottom of the frame ; the backs of the two seats form a narrow well, as it is termed, for the stowage of baggage in the centre, a name bv no means inappropriate, as it is generally full of water when it rains, — and when doe- it not in Ireland? The passengers, of course, sit back to back, which made some facetious wag call the vehicle an Irish vis-a-vis.

If a single person takes it, the driver asks. •■' Which side of the country would your honour like to see ?" and, quitting his box, perches himself, very much a1" his ease, cross-legged, on the opposite side. But my objections to them are, that they are positivelv dangerous. inasmuch as the legs of the passenger, being outside the wheel and totally unprotected, are liable to be struck, and perhaps broken, through the carelessness of the driver, especially when he

LONDON TO BELFAST.

[Letter I.

has posh (I himself as I have Mated ; and not giving a single thought whether or not in passing another vehicle on the road, or turning a corner, he endangers "his honours11 legs, which are likewise by DO means tree from a rub of the wheel through the canvass when the opposite one plunges into a rut

If the car has its full fare of four persons, and the I [ibernian Jehu must in that case keep to his stool (alias box-seat), it may happen that, twitching the mouth of his jaded beast, by way of coaxing him into a trot, he pokes his elbow into his neighbour's face, with which it is just upon the level. With this number in going up hill, the whole weight of the front passenger falls upon him in the rear, which is by no means agreeable, particularly if he should chance to be a heavy one ; and the same thing must happen to the front passenger in going down hill.

If there be but one in the car, up hill he slips to the farthest end of the seat, and down hill he is involuntarily sent back to the other extremity. Even on level ground he is ill at ease, as the points of the shafts are generally on a line, or nearly so, with the top of the horse's collar; and, consequently, it requires no little exertion to maintain his seat and avoid these slips. My driver, however, made very light of these matters. "Och! your honor will asily fall into the way of that.'1 — " Perhaps so, if I don't fall out of it I1' But, allons ! let us proceed.

Setting aside, however, all these petty inconve-

LONDON TO BELFAST.

niences, I must say that, of all the contrivances I ever met with in any part of the world, for the accommodation of travellers, an Irish car is just the very worst, and more particularly so for travellers in Ireland- where it rains, I verily believe, at least three hundred davs out of the three hundred and sixty-five : and yet the car aifords neither protection for his person nor his baggage — (squeezed into the well in the middle between the seats) — from the wet. But an Irishman seems never at a loss for an expedient. "What shall I do." said I, **if it rains?" " Change sides wid me, your honour, and if the rain comes in front, go over to the opposite side, and take it in the rear." A miserable alternative, it must be confessed.

The mail was dispatched from Donaghadee for Belfast in a car of the same description, though it bore the name of The Royal: and I might have availed myself of this conveyance into the town, distant about twenty miles, but I learnt that the direct road was dull and uninteresting, and might give me an unfavourable impression at first starting. I therefore felt mvself disposed, in fairness to the Green Island, and to avoid catching an early prejudice, to take the road which was most likely to give me a favourable impression, and that was the one leading along the shores of the Lough or hay of Belfast, which, although it lengthened the distance, would well repay me for the short detour. The drive did not disappoint me, nor did my vehicle, for it was

b 3

LONDON TO BELFAST.

just as uneasy, and gave me just as many merciless jars and jolts, as I had anticipated. The diversified views of the country, however, fully compensated for the inconvenience. On the right was a broad expansive sheet of water, on which were a number of small vessels, and two or three of a larger class, under sail. The opposite shore, enlivened with numerous white-washed houses, standing in the midst of gardens and cultivated grounds, gave to that side of the bay a cheerful appearance ; and the town of Carrickfergus, with its ancient castle, built on a rock that juts out into the sea, is an object of importance, and sufficiently near to give an interest to the landscape.

At a short distance from the opposite coast the country rises into a succession of hills, the most important of which is that known by the name of Cave Hill, said to be upwards of a thousand feet above the level of the sea. On the shore of the Lough, along which I wras travelling, we passed through two small bathing-places, the one named Bangor, the other Hollywood. They are neat villages, and the houses generally appeared to be good ; as, indeed, they must be, to attract bathers from Belfast and the neighbouring country. At Bangor I remarked two large cotton manufactories, the one belonging (as I was informed) to Colonel Ward, and the other to a company at Belfast. Colonel Ward resides in a pretty-looking castellated house, completely surrounded with plantations and wood, but visible from

LONDON TO BELFAST.

the road. It was here I understood thai the late Lord Castlereagh was brought up. and received the first rudiments of his education.

In the course of the journey we passed a poor aged woman, who seemed to be exerting- herself greatlv beyond her strength in walking with hurried steps towards the town, in pursuit, as it appeared, of some object of great interest to her. She begged hard of the driver of my car to give her a lift, which he flatly refused to da The poor creature uttered a most piteous sigh, and said no more ; but. having observed the melancholy expression of her countenance,, that denoted some heavy affliction. I felt grieved that this little mark of kindness, which would have cost him nothing, should have been denied to her; and I asked him why he refused to receive her, to which he replied, * Sure, your honour, we re better without her." " Perhaps," I rejoined, '■ the poor woman may not be of the same opinion.*' This seemed to have its weight. And evidently observing that it was my wish, and intention too, to accommodate the poor aged and way-worn traveller, he presently turned round to me. as we were leisurely ascending the hill, and respectfully touching his hat, said, * I'm just thinking, plase your honour, we'll be apt to take her in now;" and accordingly stopped to receive her. I learnt from this poor creature that she was actually on her way to Carrickfergus, to which place, she told me, with tears in her eyes, she was going for the purpose of