Thrilling echoes from the wild frontier. Interesting personal reminiscences of the author

Front matter

THRILLING ECHOES

— FROM —

THE WILD FRONTIER

Chapter I

Go West. — Among the Indians. — The Papoose.— Greeley. — Lynch Law. — South Platt Valley. — Camping out. — Selecting Claims. — Indian Skull put to good use. — Denver; Central City. — Gold Mines. . . 17 — 24

Chapter VI

Rambling in Wyoming. — Government Fort. — Loosing the Way. — A Lady Hunter. — Warm Springs. — Election Day. — Men and Women Voting. — Hunting Antelope. — In the Mountains. — Looking for Bear. — Snow Storm. (Page) . 49 — 55

Chapter VII

Second Trip to Wyoming. — A Hunt in the Mountains. — Killing Elk. — Lost. — A Painful Accident. — Hunting for Grizzly Bear. — A Kicking Mule. — Killing Deer. — Cow Boys. — Camping out. — A Lost Stranger. — Prospecting for Gold. (Page) . 56 — 68

Chapter VIII

Editorial Excursion. — Idaho Springs. — A Reception by Gov. Bryan. — Georgetown. — Grand Canon of the Arkansas. — Leadville. — Excitement. — Lynch Law Threatened. — Manitou. — Reception by Pres. Grant. — Moonlight Drive in the Garden of the Gods. — Colorado Springs. (Page) . 69 — 76

Part IV

Miscellaneous Sketches. How a Fortune Hunter Became a Tramp. — Saved from Captivity. — The Thornburg Fight. — Terrible Massacre of Indians. — A Narrow Escape. — A Thrilling Adventure. — Our Last Buffalo. — The Hunter and Old Grizzly. — The Belle of the Mountains. — Married by Lightning. — Capturing Wild Horses. — A Fight with Indians. — A Dizzy Climb. — Life on a Sheep Ranch. — An Author in Close Quarters. — In the Saddle. — An Indian Speech. — An Indian Legend. (Page) . 1 89 — 248

THRILLING ECHOES

FROM THE WILD FRONTIER.

Part I. Chapter I

We do not know that we can give a more interesting account of true life on the frontier than to give our own experience, with now and then the experience of others, the facts of which we have every reason to believe aretrue.

Whilst living in our quiet home and accustomed to the airy breezes from the blue topped Alleghenies, we were seized with the impulse to ‘‘Go west,” and west we went; first on a prospecting tour. At Cincinnati we met with an agent of the U. P. R. R. , who had cour¬ teously extended to us cheap transportation. In com¬ pany with said agent and others who were to be our companions in travel, we arrived at Omaha, Nebraska, June 27th, 1873.

Our party consisted of the said agent, an agent of the Illinois Central R. R. , a Dr. B. of Md. , Mr. H. of Va. , one of those sturdy old pioneer farmers of Ind. , and myself.

We found much at Omaha to engage our attention, but the great “west” far beyond was where our hopes were set for. On the morning of the 28th, as usual, all was bustle and confusion at the great union depot; men, i8

AMONG THE INDIANS.

women and children of different nationality, all mingled together in one living, moving mass, intent on going somewhere. The puffing, trembling iron horse seemed eager to be off. The last trunk finally was put aboard and the order “all aboard” given, then the long, crowded train was off for the wide rolling plains beyond. The wide extended area of rolling lands that met our view was grand to behold; here and there a farm house was to be seen looking like a ship far out on the broad ocean; green and waving fields of grain looked like pleasant oases on the desert waste. A great country here spread wide her arms to welcome the sturdy sons of toil. Our "first stopping place was Grand Island, Neb.; being Sun¬ day we attended divine service and Sunday school, had a favorable opportunity to compare society, which we found in appearance similiar to what we met in the east, also walked out to interview a body of Indians who were camped near the town. During the night previous a bolt of lightning had killed three head of cattle in town. Those Indians had found out what had occurred and with eager busy hands they were utilizing the car¬ casses. Nothing was suffered to go to waste; even the in¬ testines were carefully strung up to dry for food in the future. The steak and every part that was possible to be cut in thin strips was so treated and strung in the sun or over the fire to dry, making what is called “jerked beef”. One old Indian was sitting squarely upon the ground — tailor fashion — and with a large knife was splitting a large piece of steak using his uncovered thigh for it to rest upon during the process of “jerking.” Near by was a squaw busily engaged hanging the thin

KNOCKING OFF THE COIN.

strips of beef over a fire. Our curiosity was somewhat excited by what seemed to be a bundle of rags lashed with ropes to a pile of boards and sitting at an angle of about forty-five degrees against the fence. One of our party ventured to remark there was something breathing within the novel looking bundle. The squaw noting our curiosity came forward and on removing an outer cover¬ ing exposed to our wondering view a round, plump faced “papoose” (Indian baby) sleeping as sweetly — to all appearance — as ever slept an infant in its mother’s arms. One of the party rewarded the mother for her generosity by giving her a piece of money which she received with a broad grin and guttural ‘ ‘thank you. ” Later in the day some of the party had the Indians try their skill with bow and arrow having them, at a distance of fifty paces, knock small coins from a stick placed in the ground, the coin inserted edgewise in the top end, the one striking the coin and knocking it from the stick being entitled to it. It is surprising with what accuracy they can thus hit a small coin.

Leaving Grand Island at night we went farther west to Gibbon, where the next day we hired conveyances and went out about ten miles northwest, where we found a beautiful section of country yet open for entry. Returning at night we again boarded the train arriving at Cheyenne, Wyoming Territory, on the morning of June 2nd, tarried long enough to get to see a portion of, at that time, one of the wickedest cities, probably to be found anywhere. Here we changed cars and went due south for Greeley, Col. Traveling for many miles over the barren plains and emerging suddenly in to a region

THE BEAUTIFUL TOWN OF GREELEY.

of green fields, running streams and on every hand the signs of busy prosperity, was like awaking from a dream — like passing from a desert into a paradise. Water and well applied industry had made the change. Found Greeley a beautiful thriving town, four years of age. P. T. Barnum, Horace Greeley and other men of note, owned property in the town and were helping build up the place. This town has solved the problem that a community, based on strictly temperate principles, can succeed and prosper. Apply the same rules to every city, town and neighborhood in the Union that Greeley has maintained for eight years past and the evil of in¬ temperance will be banished from the land.

On our arrival at the beautiful town of Greeley we were met by some friends who conveyed us to the town of Evans. After dinner we took a stroll through the town; the fine gardens and manner of irrigating them attracted our attention. A large canal conveyed the water around the town and surrounding farms. Latteral ditches from this main canal conducted the water in beautiful streams along each side the streets along which lines of beautiful trees were growing. From these ditches into everybody’s yard or garden the water could be turned as needed. The water flowed between the rows of vege¬ tables or spread over the plats of ground readily, and when sufficient moisture was had the water was turned off. We at once discovered this matter of irrigation was much more simple and available even for large farms than we had any idea of.

Near by the town we were shown a large cotton wood tree, that a few years previous had born a sad fruit. A

LYNCHING OF A MURDERER. 21

young man had left his home in the states and in his ram¬ bles had found his way thither. Like too many young men he had learned to indulge in intoxicating beverages. While under its influence at the hotel where he was boarding, while at the dinner table, he insulted one of the female waiters, she threw a glass of water in his face, in his rage he sprang from his chair and drew his re¬ volver and killed the landlord — a man much respected. He attempted to escape but was seized by a mob and preparations at once made to hang him. All his en¬ treaties for his life were in vain. Time was given him to write a letter to his mother in which he stated the de¬ mon rum had brought him to this sad end. He was placed upon a mule which was led under the said tree, a rope was thrown over a large limb, one end fastened around his neck, the mule was led from under him and in a short time his spirit was gone from his mortal body. What a sad warning for every young man who dares to tamper with strong drink.

All being in readiness we set out by private convey¬ ance for our journey down the valley of the South Platte river. About sundown we arrived at a small town by the name of Green city. The people of the town were mostly from the southern states; we were well entertained and on the next day continued our journey. At noon we arrived at a dairy ‘ ‘ranch” presided over by a couple of men. We found one of the men churning butter, — about twenty-five pounds were made daily. About two gallons and a half of butter milk was quite an addition to our lunch. Continuing our journey through a wild and uninhabited country, at night we

CAMPING OUT.

camped on an elevation near the river. The horses were “picketed” out, our camp fire started and supper prepared all in regular pioneer camping-out style. When bed time came we spread our blankets upon the ground. Myself and bedfellow selected the sandy road bed as it was softer than the uneven grassy plain. In this climate while camping out no one cares to sleep under cover. As this was our first night camping out we took in our situation as one quite novel. We lay for some time looking up at the bright twinkling stars, wondering whether they all were worlds inhabited like ours. Thoughts of dear ones far away and of the noisy tumults that doubtless was then transpiring in many places on this evening of our National Independence day — the fourth of July. Sweet sleep finally put an end to our reveries; however, we were not left long in uninter¬ rupted slumber. We were awakened by some one yell¬ ing out “get up out of the road a wagon is coming”. We did get up and noticed a wagon with two yoke of cattle to it coming near us. Our sudden uprising and ghost like appearance so scared the oxen that they shyed off on a run. The driver did some terrible swearing and some of our jolly wits did some hearty laughing. We again nestled down in our beds and lay undisturbed until the bright morning appeared. As our city friends were used to late hours for rising we got up and taking a rifle from one of the wagons took a stroll far out on the rolling plains. While going up a ravine we noticed an antelope quietly feeding at a distance, but before we could get as near as we wanted, it discovered us and went off on a swift run. On our return to camp we found

CROSSING THE RIVER.

breakfast ready and soon we were off again for our “down the river” destination, which we reached about noon. We intended to view the land across the river. The bed of the Platte was so treacherous — in many places quicksand — that our drivers would not venture to cross. So it was agreed that after dinner we would wade the river. Our Indiana friend, however, would not venture with us. Having reached the bank of the river we divested ourselves of our clothing which we carried in our hands and commenced the crossing, — the river was about a quarter of a mile wide. Before we got across we reached deep water and had to ‘ ‘back out” and try another course. Finally we reached the opposite bank and entered upon a beautiful scope of bottom land. Each one of the party selected a claim of 160 acres of land and in the evening returned to our camp which was by a claim “shanty,” but the owner was not at home; however, according to the usage of the country it was all right to take possession of the premises while we re¬ mained. One thing that might be worthy of mention we noticed in this cabin, and that was the top part of an Indian skull that was used by the party who lived there to keep his salt in. Afterwards we learned the Sioux and Ute Indians had fought a severe battle not far off and Indian skulls were plenty. Since then we have seen them lying around in the door yards, and kept as curosities in some public houses.

We spent the next day until noon, looking around and then started on our return trip — we had gone down the river about 85 miles. Thousands of cattle were seen grazing in this great valley, and finer and fatter cattle

HOMEWARD BOUND.

we never have seen anywhere. Our return trip was similiar to our going down. One of the party killed a prairie dog and our Indianapolis friend captured a mocking bird which he carried back with him. It was the wrong season of the year to find buffalo or Indians in the valley, hence we had no such pleasure as getting an in¬ terview with them.

On our arrival at Evans we got aboard the train for the great city of Denver. On the 9th of July our party was offered a free ride to the mountains and return. It is needless to say we accepted the offer. At Golden, a beautiful, thriving town, surrounded by the foot hills, we took passage on the narrow gauge railroad up Clear Creek canon. Who has not heard of the grandeur and wonders of this remarkable canon? One man who was aboard the train was so fascinated with the scenery and awe stricken by the towering, overhanging cliffs, that he made use of all the adjectives he could think of in Webster’s unabridged and then seemed to sigh that there was no other vocabulary from whence he might derive terms to express his admiration. In due time we ar¬ rived at Black Hawk and Central City, which are hem¬ med in by high mountains and on every side are visible the rich gold and silver mines, out of which millions have been taken. The Teller hotel will favorably com¬ pare with first class houses in New York city. We thought one dollar for our dinner pretty high; however, as it was our only expense for the day we had no need to grumble. We returned to Denver in the evening, and on the next day set out homeward bound where we ar¬ rived July 1 6th.

CHAPTER II.

OUR FIRST BUFFALO HUNT.

Having arrived with my family at the beautiful town of Greeley, in Well county and after seeing them com¬ fortably situated, and having opportunity to go with a friend near a hundred miles down the South Platte river, and being informed the buffalo were plenty now in the valley, we set out buoyant with hope that we should not only get to see some of those big beasts of the plains, but that we should get an opportunity to kill one at least. In due course of time we arrived in the region of the buffalo; along the road we saw a number of partial carcasses of those recently slain. We were told that every forenoon they would come into the valley to the river to get water. So on the next morning after our arrival in camp we were up early with buffalo hunting “on the brain.” At an early hour we could discover at a distance of six miles out on the bluffs, large herds of something slowly moving about. We were told they were buffalo, and they were moving toward the river. I was all expectation. My breech-loading Sharps rifle was soon in trim ; saw that plenty of cartridges were in their place in my belt. I was on the north side of the river and those immense herds of buffaloes on the south, and the river a half mile wide between. But when a man in this country wants to accomplish anything he really wants to do it “bad,” all owing to the climate no doubt. We had no opportunity to cross the river only

2 6

A HERD OF BUFFALOES.

afoot. The water was not deep, but this cold November morning considerable ice was formed over the eddy chan¬ nels. The Platte river as a rule is broken up into chan¬ nels with sand-bars intervening. Arriving at the bank of the river we removed our boots and boldly ventured into the icy waters. The ice would break under our feet; nothing daunted us so we hurried across. After ar¬ riving on the opposite side of the river we could now see the buffalo plainly coming toward us. The nearest herd seemed to be advancing towards a point half a mile below us. To reach the point that the buffaloes might not see us we were under the necessity of creeping along under the bank of the river, some times stepping into the water two feet deep ; however, we arrived at the point where we supposed the herd would come to the river. We now had some time to take a view of the situation. The buffalo were coming on slowly but surely; we could plainly discern their size and form. Being the first we ever saw it is needless to say we were not a little nervous. Stories that had been told us of wonderful encounters with wounded buffalo, hair-breadth escapes, came fresh to our mind. Also, were told that when they get near the water they usually run pell mell into the river, those in the rear pushing those in the front out into the water. Now should such be the case, might not I be in great danger? Thus I reasoned. It was not long until they arrived near enough that I could hear their peculiar lowing as they came nearer and nearer. There was one that seemed to be their leader. He was a huge monster of probably two thousand Ebs. weight, with many others of similar size. There was fifty to one

KILLED MY FIRST BUFFALO.

hundred in the herd. On they came with heavy tread and swaying motion, stopping now and then to take a view of the situation. I was also taking observations. One has to meet face to face his coveted game as I there did, for the first time to form any idea of our feelings. The herd when within three to four hundred yards, made a long pause as if snuffing danger ahead.

When they started again they did so by making an angle in a direction above me. This was some relief to me. When within a short distance of the river they broke into a rolling run and went like a herd of halffamished beasts into the river, making a terrible plunge and noise like that of a rushing avalanche. There was a bend in the river and banks so high that the herd was hidden from my sight. No sooner was the body of the herd into the river than I sprang up the bank and in a stoop¬ ing position moved through the deep grass to a point where I could see some of them. On my emerging from my hiding place under the bank of the river those stragling ones of the herd that had not yet got into the river broke and run, evidently much frightened. Selecting for my first shot a fine looking buffalo that stood on a small sand bar drinking out of the edge of the water, I fired and was proud to see my shot was effectual. The report of my gun so frightened the herd that they ran out of the water and stopping for a moment on the bank I had an opportunity to fire at a very fine cow, hitting her in the shoulder. She however, went off on a run, badly wounded ; I followed her for several miles into the bluffs but failed to secure her. We skinned the one we killed at the river and in the evening got the meat to camp

PROVISIONS IN PLENTY.

where we were glad to rest from our day’s hunt. This was our first hunt on the plains, but by no means the last, of which more anon. Having in addition to the buffalo we killed, two antelope, we returned to our home at Greeley pretty well stocked with provision in the meat line.

Chapter III. Massacred By The Indians

Having spent a few months in Greeley we left the town and moved with our family nearly one hundred miles down the South Platte river, and having thus lo¬ cated far from railroads and where there were but very few settlers we had an opportunity to realize what it was to be isolated from the busy world, and experience fron¬ tier life in its true nature. We were almost within a stone’s throw of the old American ranch which was noted for being the scene, but a few short years before, of a bloody massacre of some whites by the Indians.

I have frequently seen the graves of the victims and been within the room where the pleadings of a fond mother could not save her dear children. Much blame is laid to the horrible cruelty of the Indians, but often he is incited by revenge to his acts of cruelty. In the case of this massacre there was a circumstance occurred that caused the Indians to take such terrible summary re¬ venge.

The Indians and whites were not on good terms for some time previous. One of the white men killed an Indian and I am told propped him up against the corral wall where others as they passed at some distance could see him. As might be supposed this incited the Indians to vengeance. It was difficult for the Indians to ap¬ proach the house in day time without being seen. The

WHOLESALE SLAUGHTER.

whites, who were six in number, three men, one woman and two children, kept a close watch that the Indians might not approach unobserved. This ranch was one at which emigrants frequently put up, it being on the old California route.

The Indians watched their opportunity when no emi¬ grants were present, and under the shelter of night se¬ creted themselves in a depression in the ground some six feet deep that was near the house. Awaiting in the morning until the door was opened and some of the men stepped outside some distance from the house, the In¬ dians, over a hundred in number, made a rush for the house. As they came they gave vent to loud and terri¬ ble yells. The men rushed for their arms but were soon overpowered. One ran for the river, but was overtaken, killed and scalped. The other two men were killed in the house ; then come the children’s turn. The mother pleaded for them to spare her childreu, but no they would not. They were also killed and the terror stricken mother taken captive by these blood-thirsty savages and carried off with them. Her sufferiugs and sorrows with the events of her life while in captivity would, if enu¬ merated, fill a volume. In course of time she was bought out of captivity and is now living in Nebraska — or at least was not long since.

The three murdered men and two children were de¬ cently buried near the bank of the broad flowing Platte. Whenever we would see their graves we would think of the horrors of that eventful morning.

But a short distance above the American ranch, was another ranch owned and kept by a man named Godfrey.

A CLEVER RUSE.

The Indians now thirsty for more blood made an attack on this ranch also ; but the inmates were not taken by surprise. There were at the ranch at the time, God¬ frey’s wife, another woman, and a hired man and several children. All took quarters for safety in a circular fort house built of sod. As the Indians came up a deadly fire was kept up, the women loading the guns and the men firing them. Several of the Indians were killed, which caused the others to retreat to a safe distance. The women wore hats and kept marching back and forth, making the Indians who could see them believe that the fort was full of men. In this way they were kept back though they would not leave; it was thought they had sent for reinforcements. At night one of the men at the ranch slyly got away on a swift horse and apprised the soldiers at the fort, thirty miles further up, and by day¬ light they arrived and on their approach the Indians left and thus was prevented another bloody massacre.

Chapter IV. Among The Indians

Over a thousand Indians had come into the South Platte Valley, in Colorado, and were camped at different points along the river between Buffalo and Julesburg, a station on the U. P. R. R. In company with a number of settlers we set out on a trip from Buffalo, our place of residence, to Julesburg, a distance of 75 miles. We all had in view the object of trading some with the Indians. The first night we camped near by where a large number of the Indians had pitched their tents. One of the most notable features about an Indian camp is the many dogs which as you pass along keep up a din of noise and confusion that is quite annoying. The little dusky-boys and girls add to the tumult by hallooing “sick,” “sick,” at the dogs, which is the Indian phrase to call a dog to them. When a choice feast is to be gotten up by the Indian cook, in consideration of some important event or honored guest, a roast dog figures conspicuously in the bill of fare ! We noticed many of the squaws and maidens coming into camp with enormous loads of brush wood. Like many of the white “Lords of creation, ” the Indian man is either too lazy or aristocratic to work, hence makes slaves of his wives or daughters. Our camp was thronged with Indians eager for a trade of some kind. They offered blankets, robes, lariates, moccasins, bows and arrows, and trinkets of various kinds in ex-

AGAIN ON THE MOVE.

change for guns, pistols, ammunition, bread and sugar and coffee, or dry goods of any kind. Many of the In¬ dians are sharp on a trade while others seem to know but little of the value of commodities. I have seen some trade goods, to the value of a dollar for a pint of sugar. Of course no honest man would thus trade, even with an Indian.

To guard against having our horses stolen by the Indians, our wagons were placed in a position forming a circle, inside of which our horses were placed, and our beds made upon the ground. Resuming our journey in the morning, about ten o’clock in the day we came near another camp of the Indians. Hundreds of ponies were grazing on the wide green bottom through which our road ran. Some of those Indians are quite wealthy. They regard their wealth in the number of ponies they own. Some dress quite extravagantly. One young man whom we imagined to be the son of a Chief rode with us some distance. His neck, ears and breast were loaded with glittering trinkets. His buckskin suit was gorgeouly trimmed with fringes, tassals and stripes of red and blue. On his head he wore a fur cap or turban, made out of the skin of a swift (a species of fox). The feathers that decked the same were such that the vain girls of fashion might have envied, even in civilized so¬ ciety. He carried a Sharp’s rifle, with a complete hun¬ ter’s outfit, and in proudly mien sat upon his beautiful horse, as erect as a perpendicular arrow. He seemed to say in the expression of his appearance, ‘ * I am lord of all I survey, and content in all my glory. ”

Further on we had the privilege of seeing an exciting

A RACE AFTER DEER.

race of about twenty mounted Indians after three deer that they had driven from an island in the river. Soon the deer separated and a number of the Indians took after each deer. When the deer would run into the shallow channel of the river, the Indians would plunge in also, making the water splash in sheets on either side. When on the grassy bottom, it was a race full of the greatest excitement. The Indians while riding at full speed kept up an almost continual shooting at the fleeing deer. It seemed their rifle balls mostly missed their aim. However, after a race of some miles two of the deer were killed. The Indians were but a few minutes in skinning and dissecting the carcasses of their slain game. They suffer nothing to go to waste. A little boy was riding along beside our wagon, when another larger boy, which we took to be the brother of the other, came galloping up with something in his Angers from which the blood was dripping, and he handed it to the little boy who ate it seemingly with the relish a child would a stick of candy. It was a piece of the warm liver of one of the slain deer.