A text-book of needlework, knitting, and cutting out : with methods of teaching

Front matter

ii'liill

ART INSTITUTE LIBRART

A TEXT-BOOK

Preface

The Author has been encouraged to hope, by many kind friends, that in publishing this text-book for the class teaching of Needlework, Cutting-out, and Knitting, she is rendering an important service to teachers in Public Elementary, High, Technical, and Evening Continuation Schools, Pupil and Student Teachers. The lessons have been practically worked out by the Author. Full details are given, not with the intention to cripple originality of plan and method, and so produce liard-and-fast teaching, but to stimulate young and inexperienced teachers to prepare their Needlework lessons with thought and purpose, with care and intelligence. The book is also intended for the use of mothers of families, and ladies engaged in parochial and mission work.

“ The use of sewing is exceeding old,

As in the Sacred Text it is enrol’d.

VI 11

Till the world be quite dissolu’d and past, So long at least the needle’s use shall last.

A needle (though it be but small and slender)

Yet it is both a maker and a mender ;

The Praise of the Needle , John Taylor, 1640. ELIZABETH ROSEVEAK.

Stockwell Training College,

Contents

PAGE

INTRODUCTION 1

Part I Chap

1. Drills : Needle, Thimble, Position, Knitting Pin, Slip-knot

for Knitting . . . .9

2. Hemming — Joining Two Colours — Fastening On and Off' —

Fixing and Tacking a Hem . . . .24

3. Knitting — Garter Stitch — Chain Edge — Casting On and Off' 38

4. First Lesson on Seaming (Top-Sewing) . . .47

5. Purl and Plain Knitting — Sew-and-Fell Seam — Joining Two

Colours in Seaming — Fastening Off in Seaming — Felling — Joining Two Colours in Felling . .51

6. Casting-on Three Needles — Joining Wool or Cotton . 60

7. Use of Demonstration Frame — Herring-bone — Darning —

Stitching — Fastening Off and On in Stitching — Making a Band ....... 67

8. Sewing on a Tape -String — Pleating — Fixing Hems on

Joined Material ...... 84

9. Calf of Stocking — Darning a Thin Place in Stocking- Web —

Gathers — Setting-in . . . .94

10. Flannel Patching, i.e. Fixing and Herring- boning the

Corners of Patch . . . . .111

11. Buttons — Buttonhole Stitch — Corners of Buttonholes —

Buttonholes on Calico . . . . .119

X

CHAP.

12. Heels of Stockings and Socks ....

13. Patching Calico — Darning Holes in Stocking- Web .

14. Marking Stitch and Letters — Alphabets — Tucks

15. Thickened Heel of Stocking — Cross-cut and Hedge -tear

16. Print Patch — Gusset .....

17. Run-and-Fell Seam — Buttonholes — Marking

18. Whipping — Setting on a Frill ....

19. Flannel Binding — Seams in Flannel

20. Various Methods of Seaming in Calico, Linen, and Muslin

21. Strengthening Tapes — Piping ....

22. Ornamental Stitches, viz. Coral and Feather Stitch, Chain,

Fancy Herring-bone. Biassing, Knotting, Scalloping, Hem-Stitch, and Eyelet-Holes ....

23. Swiss Darning — Grafting — Stocking- Web Stitch .

24. Fine-Drawing a Hole — Diagonal Patch — Sewing on Cords —

Twill and Wave Darns .

25. Pupil Teachers’ Samplers .....

26. Smocking — Quilting .....

PAET II

1. Hints on Cutting-out .

2. First Lesson in Cutting-out (Drawing Lesson)

3. Second Lesson in Cutting-out (Drawing Lesson)

4. Third Lesson in Cutting-out (Paper Pattern)

5. Pinafores : Cottage and Muslin ....

6. Aprons : Women’s and Girls’ — Pillow-Slips

7. Petticoats — Placket-Holes — Draw-Strings .

8. Chemises — False Hem on the Cross — Front Fold — Com-

binations— Scales ......

9. Drawers : Women’s and Children’s — False Hems on the

Straight — Scales of Proportions ....

10. Nightgowns — Scales for same . ...

11. Shirts — Scales for same .....

PAGE

CONTENTS xi

CHAP. PAGE

12. Bodices : Women’3 and Children’s .... 362

13. Infants’ Shirts and Barrowcoats • 366

14. Infants’ Day and Night Gowns . . . .374

15. Children’s Frocks — Smocks— Scales of Frocks . . 383

16. Girls’ Smocks — Dimensions of same . . . 391

Part III

1. Knitting — Terms in Knitting .... 403

2. General Rules for Stockings and Socks — Scales for same . 407

3. Vest — Petticoat — Penelope or Sleeveless Bodice — Infant’s

4. Babies’ Hoods — Boy’s Fisher Cap .... 418

5. Comforters or Scarves — Muffatees .... 421

7. Edgings— Children’s Muffs ..... 426

8. Double Knitting — Quilts — Blankets— Fringes . . 431

9. Shells for Counterpane — Rug-Stitch — Fancy Patterns . 433

10. Netting -Stitch : Square, Oblong, Round, Twisted — Dressmaking, Apparatus ..... 439

Appendix — New Code — Syllabus for Students and Acting

ILLUSTRATIONS

FIG.

PAGE

Threading a Needle

Position of Hands for Knitting

First Lesson on Hemming ....

4a. Hemming on Sectional Paper ....

Hemming in Position on Finger

Joins in Hemming .....

Needle in Position for Fastening-On

Wrong Side of Hemming .....

Right Side of Hemming .....

Fixing First Fold of a Hem ....

A Hem Fixed .....

Garter Stitch .......

Chain-Stitch in Knitting ....

. Casting-On — Slip-knot Loop ....

., Loop on the Pin

, , Loop on Second Pin .

,, New Loop on First Pin

Twelve Loops Cast On .....

Casting-Off

19. Seaming — Needle in Position .

Strip in Position on Hand ....

Seaming — Sectional Diagram ....

Purl Stitch

Purl and Plain Knitting .....

Sew-and-Fell Seam — Fixing ....

Corner in Sew and Fell

Joins in Seaming — Sectional Paper .

Folded Stockwell Demonstration Frame .

ILLUSTRATIONS xm

FIG. PAGE

29. Casting-On — Three Needles 61

30. Three Needles in Position — Round Knitting ... 63

31. Joins in Knitting Cotton, or Wool, etc. . . . 65

32. Cuff — Round Specimen of Knitting 66

33. Stockwell Demonstration Frame — Open .... 68

34. Herring-bone Stitch — Sectional Paper .... 72

35. Darning a Thin Place on Canvas — Oblong . . . 75

36. Darning a Thin Place on Canvas — Diamond . . . 76

37a. Stitching — Right Side 80

37b. ,, Wrong Side 80

38. ,, Fastening On and Off ..... 81

39. Preparation of Band 83

40. Drawn Thread on a Band 84

41. Fixed Tape String 85

42. Tape String on a Band — Wrong Side .... 87

44. Pleating 89

45. Hems on Joined Material 93

46. Decreasings in Calf of Stocking 95

47. Calf of Stocking 96

48. Darn on Stocking- Web — Thin Place . . . 100

49. Gathers 103

51 a. Setting in Gathers — Work on the Hand . 108

51b. Gathers — Set into a Band 108

52. Gathering Stitch — Sectional Paper 109

53. Setting-in Stitch 110

54. Herring-bone Stitch — Inner Corner . . 116

55. „ ,, Outer Corner 116

56. Flannel Patch — Wrong Side 117

58a. Linen Button — Diameters ...... 120

58b. Sewing a Linen Button to a Band 120

59. Metal Button — Crossed 124

60. Button — Starred . . 124

61. Buttonhole Stitch 126

62. ,, One Corner Round 129

63. ,, Eyelet-hole Corner 131

64. Dutch Heel 138

65. Calico Patch — Right Side 143

XIV

FIG.

67. Darning a Hole — Wrong Side

69. Marking— Simple Pattern in Cross Stitch

70. „ Cross Stitch ....

71. Capital Letters — E, I, H, L, 0, T .

72. Braue-Bred Stitch

73. Alphabets and Numerals

74. Tucks — Material Spaced

75. ,, Material Folded

76. Running Stitch — Sectional Paper .

77. Tucks — Completed . . .

78. Heel and Gusset of Stocking .

79. Cross-Cut Darn — Rhomboids .

80. ,, ,, Completed .

81. Hedge-Tear Darn

82. Print Patch — Right Side

83. „ Wrong Side — First Method

84. „ Overcasting

85. ,, Blanket Stitch .

86. ,, Wrong Side — Second Method

87. Gusset — Triangle fixed ....

88. ,, Triangle

89a. ,, Triangle and Hexagon — Wrong Side

89b. ., Triangle and Hexagon — Right Side

90. , , set into a Garment — Right Side

91. ,, set into a Garment — Wrong Side

92. ,, set into a Shirt Sleeve

93. Run-and-Fell Seam — Fixing .

96. Buttonhole — Both ends braced

97. Band — Fixed and Seamed

98. Frill— Rolled and Whipped .

99. Whip Stitch — Sectional Paper

100. Frill — Whipped and drawn up

101. ,, Fixed to the Band

102. ,, Set on to a Band ....

103. ,, on a Band

104. Flannel Binding

105. Head Flannel

106. Binding with Braid ....

PAGE

ILLUSTRATIONS xv

FIG.

107. Seam in Flannel Petticoat

108. ,, „ ,, Herring-boned

109. Seam in Flannel Bodice .

110. ,, „ ,, Herring-boned

111. Seam in Flannelette — Herring-boned

112. Mantua-Maker’s Hem

113. Bodice Seam .....

114. Strengthening Tape on a Garment

116. Piping Cord * .

117. Coral-Stitcli .

119. Feather-Stitch and Knotting

120. Chain-Stitch .

121. Fancy Herring-bone Stitch

122. Biassing

123. Knotting

124. Round Scallops

125. ,,

126. Single Hem Stitch .

127. Swiss Darning

128. Grafting

129. Stocking- Web Stitch

130. Diagonal Flannel Patch — Right Side

132. First Lesson in Cutting-Out

133. Diagram of Yoke .

134. Cottage Pinafore (Child’s)

135. Muslin Pinafore (Child’s)

137a. Tape String on Pillowslip 137b. Tape Strings on Towels and Dusters

138. Woman’s Petticoat

139. Placket-Hole of Petticoat

140. Woman’s Chemise .

143. ,, Open Seam .

144. False Hem and Trimming on a Sleeve

PAGE

220 221

228 229

XVI

FIG. PAGE

147. Girl’s Chemise 311

148. Woman’s Combination ....... 315

149. Girl’s Combination 316

150. Knickerbocker Drawers (Child’s) 320

151. First Size Child’s Drawers 326

153a. Woman’s Nightgown (Body, etc.) .... 333

154. Girl’s Nightgown 341

157. Man’s Nightshirt 352

159. Child’s Petticoat Bodice 364

161. Infant’s First Shirt (Open) 367

162. Body of Barrowcoat 373

163. Body of Baby’s Day gown 374

164. Baby’s Nightgown 378

165. Body of Baby’s Robe 384

166. Infant’s Frock Body 384

169a. Woman’s Tucked Blouse 393

170a. Woman’s Dress Bodice ..... 395

171a. Back of Skirt of Gown 397

171b. Front and Side Gores of Skirt of Gown 398

172. Stocking 409

ERRATA

Page 34, line 8, for right, read left.

,, 72, line 10, for left to right, read right to left.

,, 250, diagram 131 — a line is left out at the right-hand bottom corner.

,, 412 — after No. 9 refer to Nos. 11 to 13 inclusive on page 410.

,, 412, line 2, for stitches, read stitch.

Introduction

Needlework is one of the useful arts, and as a branch of instruction may be made the means of training the hand and the eye. Robert Mudie says : “ Of all the human powers, the hand is that, perhaps, which admits of the most cultivation, because its education is twofold ; it may be educated in knowing and educated in doing. . . . We absolutely have a mine of wealth in those ten fingers, which the longest life cannot exhaust. We multiply it in the same proportion as we use it, and the hand, which can do the most, is the readiest in the performance of anything new.” By practice in needlework the hand becomes steady, dexterous, and powerful. But the eye must also be trained to observe correctly, to compare sizes and forms, and to measure spaces, in order that the worker may fix evenly, sew regularly, draw and cut out accurately, and construct properly and tastefully.

Cutting out, as a branch of knowledge in connection with needlework, may be made the means of developing ‘some of the intellectual faculties, for, in order to cut out well, it is necessary to think, to plan, to contrive, and to be accurate. When mathematical calculations, exact measurements, true proportions, and correct diagrams are employed, cutting out ranks as a science. Looking at needlework, then, as an art and the study of it as a science, it becomes a technical subject of instruction for girls.

Needlework lessons to older girls should give an insight into principles, implied in such industries as outfitting, baby-linen, dressmaking, and millinery, so that the girls may afterwards work more freely and intelligently. Workers who have been from girlhood or boyhood scientifically trained are, as a rule, incomparably more efficient when they enter the workroom, workshop, or factory, than those who are apprenticed to the same trade, without the advantages of any previous training, and without any intelligent interest in the work they are called upon to do.

Needlework as a leading branch of good housewifery cannot be too highly prized, nor the taste for it too earnestly cultivated. The careful, ingenious thought carried into execution by active skilful fingers must materially improve the comfort and appearance of a family. When needlework is wisely taught it develops the thrifty disposition, encourages habits of neatness, cleanliness, order, management, and industry ; and may truly be considered a moral and refining influence, both in the home and in the school. Patching, darning, knitting, and home-made garments are all ways and means of economising.

Needlework differs from all other school subjects, in that it can be made self -paying. It has long been the custom in voluntary and board schools to sell the garments made by the scholars at a little over the first cost of the materials. This plan answers very well in some districts, but in others, in spite of the existence of such an admirable institution as the “ School Clothing Club,” and of the value and suitability of the garments, the burden of dis-

INTRODUCTION posing of them falls upon the teachers, the parents being too poor to purchase.

Diagrams on the slate, blackboard, or chequered board are a great and important feature in giving needlework demonstration lessons. English teachers, however, still shrink from using rapid and bold freehand drawing from the object, when giving their lessons. Dr. Fitch in his Notes on American Schools says : “ The power of rapid and effective freehand drawing is cultivated more generally, and with more success, among the best American teachers than among our own, and it gives them a great advantage. A diagram sketched out then and there to illustrate a science lesson, as one fact after another is elicited and explained, has a far greater effect in kindling the interest of children, and fixing their attention, than any number of engraved or painted pictures, however good. A new drawing made ad hoc and associated with something which at the time is being enforced or made interesting by the teacher, has a value of a far higher kind.” The same thing may be said for illustrating needlework demonstration lessons. The lessons in this manual are all illustrated step by step, from the object, and the diagrams are intended as guides or suggestions to teachers.

Sewing and knitting machines cannot now be disregarded, because they are in more general use than they were a few years ago. Sewing machines are really necessary in making up some articles of wearing apparel ; but, though they are often employed for constructing underclothing, hand -made garments are still in great request, and always command the highest price in the market. Even when machines are used, the cutting out and fixing of the garments, as well as the fastening on and off of the stitches, must be done by hand. Cheap sewing machines produce stitches which give way almost directly the garment is worn, and the machine needles often make unsightly holes in the material.

Good sewing machines, e.g. Singer’s, or Grover and Baker’s, should be introduced into graded and technical schools, and the girls should be taught how to use them in making up the dress bodices and skirts, which they have previously cut out.

In the Memoir of Annie Keary is the following letter, which gives excellent reasons for finishing oft* work completely and perfectly : “ I am very fond of sewing myself, and I think that there is so much pleasure in learning to do anything with one’s fingers really well and beautifully. Do you remember my showing you the beautiful way in which the little wild flowers were made ? All the little leaves finished off* with such delicate fringes of soft hairs, and the blossoms so carefully fastened on to the stalks, and the seed vessels fitted so neatly ; and we said it was a lesson in finishing off* work well, which God gives us in every little flower and leaf. He never leaves anything half done ; not the tiniest little moss or weed has an end or an edge that is not beautifully ornamented and finished off. It is the same with shells, even with rocks and stones. God makes everything perfect to its last little atom, to show us how carefully we should work. We should not be satisfied with the things we make looking well in a rough, outside way ; we should find pleasure in turning out work that will bear looking at all through, as His work will.”

A few words are necessary in regard to the kind of practice material which should be given to children and beginners. Coarse calico, flannel, stocking web, and knitting materials should be supplied at first. But when

INTRODUCTION the children have made good progress in their work, they should be allowed to deal with materials such as would be generally used for garments in their own and in better class homes. Pupil and student teachers’ needlework ought most certainly to excel children’s, both in neatness and in finish ; and they should show proficiency on fine materials as well as coarse.

Chapter I

Drills. — Needle , Thimble , Position , Knitting-pin , and making a Slip-knot for Knitting

Drill. — The term drill is closely connected with discipline in its modern and limited sense of control, and in this sense makes instruction possible to large classes. Needlework drills are action lessons in which the children’s imitative faculties are largely exercised ; they should always be short, bright, interesting lessons, and should be given with the precision of a drill-mistress. Needlework drills are of great use and value, not only in the infant schools, but in the lower standards of girls’ schools. The purposes of these drills are manifold.

1. To interest the children, and make them obedient and attentive.

2. To make the children’s hands supple and dexterous.

3. To make the children quick and industrious, without any undue excitement.

IO

PART

Needle Drill

Class. — Lower and Upper Division of Infants.

Apparatus. — For the Teacher. — A very coarse carpet needle, coloured or white twine, or knitting cotton ; and, in later lessons, a very coarse sewing needle, and coloured sewing cotton.

F07 • the Children. — In early lessons, very coarse blunt-pointed needles, known as “Baby Threaders”; fine twine or knitting cotton ; and, in later lessons, coarse sewing needles, and coloured sewing cotton.

Method. — 1. Explain to the class the uses of the needle and cotton : (a) the needle is used to hold the cotton in its eye, to make a hole with its point, and to carry the cotton through the hole made in the material ; (b) the cotton forms the stitches ; (c) the needle and cotton must both be used in making stitches.

2. Exercise the children in distinguishing the right hand from the left hand.

The Right-hand Drill. — Raise the right hand and (a) show the class how to take up the twine, or cotton, very near one end, with the right thumb and forefinger ; ( b ) then how to flatten and twist the end with the left thumb and forefinger, so that it can be pushed through the eye easily and quickly. (Demonstrate again, the class working with you.)

N.B. — This action must be repeated several times. The children must not be allowed to bite the cotton, because it is a dirty habit.

The Left-hand Drill. — Raise the left hand and show the class how to take up the needle with the left thumb and forefinger, the eye being upwards, and the needle being

I

THREADING DRILL n

held at a moderate distance, straight in front of the worker. Repeat this action, telling class to work with you.

Threading Drill

Recapitulate the right and left hand drills. The children are now holding the needle and cotton properly and are ready to work wdth you : —

1. Bring the cotton in front and very near the eye of the needle.

2. Push the end of the cotton through the eye.

3. Put out the last three fingers of the left hand, and catch hold of the long piece of cotton, so that if the short end falls out before the action of threading is finished, it can easily be replaced with the right thumb and forefinger.

4. Turn the left hand round so that the short end of

PART cotton is pointing to the right, and can be seen by the worker (Fig. 1).

5. Pull the short end through with right thumb and forefinger, till both ends nearly meet.

6. Hold needle and double part of cotton straight overhead.

7. Put needles and cotton down.

N.B. — The action of threading the needle is very difficult for young children, so this lesson must be repeated many times, if necessary. After every action has been demonstrated and explained, the teacher may drill either by numbers or words of command as follows : —

1. Take up cotton — and twist the end.

2. Take up the needle — and hold it in proper position.

3. Bring the needle and cotton — close together.

4. Push the cotton — through the eye.

5. Catch hold of long piece of cotton — with three fingers.

6. Turn the left hand — to the right (so that you can see short end better).

7. Pull the short end — till it nearly meets the other end.

8. Show needle and cotton — over your head.

9. Put needle and cotton down.

Notes. — 1. Explain during the drill that threading the needle is putting cotton or silk or thread through its eye.

2. The punctuation of the drill for expertness indicates the pauses to be made. The words before the stops should be said slowly, and the words after quickly. The action of threading the needle (No. 4) requires more time, therefore a longer pause is necessary.

This note applies to all drills by words of command.

3. Needle drill can be used for threading sewing needles, even in Standard II.

I

THIMBLE DRILL

*3

4. Some say that the teacher should use opposite hands to the children’s during the drill ; for instance, that the teacher should raise her left hand when the children raise their right hands and vice-versa. This, however, is not progressive teaching. A mother or a kindergarten teacher would not do so, because such method would not train children to observe ; and would be an impossibility in knitting-pin drill. This difficulty can be overcome if the teacher turns her back slightly to the children, being careful to keep her face towards the class.

N.B. — This note applies to all the drills.

Thimble Drill

Class. — Any infant class.

Apparatus. — A bag or covered box of thimbles, assorted, infant sizes.

Method. — 1. Exercise children in finger movements, and in distinguishing the right hand from the left.

2. Find a thimble that will fit each child’s right hand middle finger.

3. Explain the use of the thimble, viz. — (a) to cover the tip of the finger, and in this way to keep it from being pricked by the needle when sewing ; (b) to push the needle through the work with the top of the thimble.

The Left-hand Drill. — Raise the left hand and (a) show the children how to close all the fingers into the palm, except the thumb and forefinger ; (b) show how to take up the thimble at the top, with the left thumb and forefinger ; and ( c ) how to turn it with the hole towards the right. Demonstrate the left-hand drill again, the children working with you.

The Right-hand Drill. — Raise the right hand and (a) show how to close in the fingers and thumb to form a

PART fist ; ( b ) then how to raise the middle finger ; and (c) how to bend it towards the left hand. Demonstrate again, the children working with you. Repeat this drill many times.

The Drill for putting on the Thimble. — 1. Recapitulate the left and right hand drills. The class is now ready to put on the thimbles.

2. (a) Show how to bring the middle finger of the right hand and the hole of the thimble close together ; (b) how to put the hole over the tip of the finger ; and (c) how to press the top of the thimble with the right thumb, so as to fix it on securely.

3. Demonstrate again, the children putting on their thimbles at the same time.

4. Tell children to raise right middle finger to let you see that their thimbles are on.

5. Question them as to the uses of the thimble. When every action has been demonstrated and the children know what they must do, the teacher may drill them as follows : —

1. Take up the thimble — and turn the hole to the right hand.

2. Raise right-hand middle finger — and bend it towards the hole of the thimble.

3. Bring thimble and middle finger — close together.

4. Put on the thimble — and press the top with the right-hand thumb.

5. Show teacher — the thimble on.

6. Take off the thimble — and put it down.

Notes. — 1. An object lesson on the thimble and its uses might precede the drill with advantage.

2. Thimble drill is not required by the code, but it is very necessary.

I

POSITION DRILL

Position Drill

Class, — Lower and Upper Division, Infants.

Apparatus. — For the Teacher. — A strip of very coarse calico, unfixed, a very coarse sewing needle and black sewing cotton.

For the Children. — Scraps of very coarse calico, neither too short nor too long, coarse sewing needles, black sewing cotton, and thimbles. (The needles should be fastened on the work.)

Method. — 1. Tell children they are going to learn how to place their work properly, and how to use a needle and cotton to make slanting stitches. (Make sure every child has a thimble on the right finger.)

2. Right Hand. — (a) Show children how to raise the right hand and close the last three fingers into the palm ; ( b ) how to take up the work at the top edge, a little way from the end, with the right thumb and forefinger (repeat these actions, the class working with you) ; (c) tell children to show their work that you may see they are all holding it correctly ; then ( d ) to put their work down on the desks.

3. Left Hand. — (a) Show children how to raise the left hand and to close the last three fingers into the palm ; (b) how to curve the left forefinger round towards the top of the thumb ; (c) how to place the work on and round the left forefinger, well over the nail, but not beyond its first joint or crease ; ( d ) how to keep the work in this position with left thumb and middle finger. (Repeat 2 and 3, the children working with you.)

N.B. — Explain why the work is placed on one finger and not on two ; (a) it is easier to hold and ( b ) it helps to make the stitches the right shape.

Thimble and Needle. — (a) Show children how to put the i6

PART top of the thimble on the eye of the needle, and take the needle off* the work with right thumb and forefinger.

N.B. — Explain that it is better to use the top than the side of the thimble when pushing the needle through the work. If the side of the thimble is used the needle may slip, and is then liable to be bent.

Making the Stitch. — (a) Show how to put the needle in a slanting direction towards the left, through a big piece of calico, close to the middle of the left thumb-nail ; (b) take the needle out and show again, the children working with you this time.

N.B. — Explain that by putting the needle in a slanting direction through the calico a slanting stitch will be made, because the cotton will form the stitch, and will lie on the calico, where the needle is now.

(e) Show children how to move the right thumb away from the needle, and place it on the front part of the left forefinger, so that both thumb-nails touch each other, at the same time lifting the right forefinger off the needle.

N. B. —Explain why the thumb is moved, viz. that it may press against the left forefinger when pushing the needle through. If the right thumb is pressed on the needle, the worker may bend or break it.

(Repeat, the children working with you.)

(d) Show how to push the needle through, about half its own length, pressing at the same time the right thumb against the left forefinger, and then taking right hand away. Let children work with you. ( e ) Show how to draw the needle out a little way with right thumb and forefinger ; and (/) how to put out thimble and next finger and catch the cotton under them. Let the children work (e) and (J) with you.

N.B. — Explain why cotton is caught under two fingers of right hand (1) to keep it clean when the hand is warm, and (2) to