Six years in the Canadian North-West

Preface

THIS Book, which I dedicate to the Canadian Public, is not a work of fiction, but is purely historical. In writing it, elegance of style has not been studied, but rather a simple relation of facts as they occur. It may be wanting in interest to the lover of imaginary adventure, but to those who love the truth, I trust it will be found sufficiently interesting to repay a perusal.

My object in undertaking this work is not to gain notoriety, but to furnish the Canadian Public with an account, not yet given by any writer, of the object of the organization of the North-West Mounted Police Force, the trials, privations, and adventures which they encountered, and the results of the expedition.

This book is divided into three parts, the first of which contains a history of the campaign of the North-West Mounted Police, in the year 1874, under command of Colonel French, and though- it is short, it relates facts which should form a few pages of Canadian history and iv

Preface.

being an eye-witness, I have simply stated the facts, leaving to the general public the task of deducing conclusions.

The second part contains the history of our sojourn in the far North- West, and gives an account of the journeys made by myself over vast plains ; the first, undertaken to acquaint myself with the manners and actions of the Indians in their primeval state, and the second, in discharge of official duty, and to study further the Indian character.

The third part is an account of my return journey from Fort Saskatchewan via Saskatchewan and Red River, and Lakes Winnepeg, Superior, and Huron to Sarnia, and thence by rail to Quebec. This part will be found the most interesting of the three, and also the most useful to intending settlers in the North-West as it contains geographical and agricultural information which will give an idea of the future of that region traversed by the Saskatchewan.

CHAPTER I. Page

General State of Affairs in the North-West Territories previous to the year 1874 — Organization of the North-West Mounted Police Force — My Enlistment in that Corps — The Apostle of Temperance — Military Life during our Stay at the New Fort of Toronto 9

Chapter II

Our Departure from Toronto — Ideas of a Misanthrope about Civilization —The Northern Metropolis of the United States— St. Paul— The Red River Valley — Our First Camping Night on the Prairie — The Hunters of the Plains — Our arrival at Dufferin, opposite Emerson. 19

Chapter III

Dufferin in 1874 — The Stampede — The Final Organization of the Mounted Police— The Apostle of Temperance again— A Sioux Scare , 32

Chapter IV

Departure of Mounted Police from Dufferin— Desertion of Inspector Richer— Beginning of Hardships— The Mounted Police Transformed into Cart-drivers — A Modern Diogenes — Camping on Souris River— The Trial of Sub-constable P.— State of the Mounted Police on their arrival at Roche Perce'e 40

Chapter V

Report that the Mounted Police had been Massacred by the Sioux- Roche Perce'e— Church Services— The Division of Our Forces 52 vi

CHAPTER VI. Page

Departure of the Main Column from Roche Perce'e — The Templar's Castles in the Air Vanish— Departure of Our Party for Fort Ellice — A Change for the Better— The Glorious Death of a Sioux Brave — A Horrible Dream 58

Chapter VII

Fort Ellice — Our Departure — The Region between Qu'Appelle River and the South Saskatchewan — Our Arrival at Carleton — The uneven Course of Love 66

Chapter VIII

My First Attempt to Paddle a Canoe — Difficulties of the Journey increasing— Our Arrival at Victoria — Making Corduroy Roads— Our Arrival at Edmonton — The Vicissitudes of the Main Column D -— A Constable's Strange Request —Reaching the J unction, and the Disappointment that followed- -New Orders from the Government —The Forces directed by Colonel McLeod — Return of the Commissioner to Duff erin , , 72

Chapter IX

Edmonton in 1874— My Journey to the Plains— A New Mode of Travelling— My First Experience in Camping Out in Winter — My Arrival at Buffalo Lake— A Bold Hunter — An Indian Camp on Red Deer River— An Indian Dance or Pow-Wow 81

Chapter X

An Unexpected Proposal — On the Road Again — A.' Disagreement- Hunting the Buffalo — Disappearance of my Guides — Visit to Another Camp —A Council of Warriors — A. Peculiar Feast — On my Return — Frozen Ears— Paternal Anxiety — The Indian Doctor — Return to Buffalo Lake — Visit to the Cree Indian Headquarters — The Indian Conjuror's Account of the Creation of the World— My Return to Edmonton and Kind Reception 89

Contents.

vii

CHAPTER XI. Page

Disturbance during my Absence and its Causes— Selection of a Site for a New Fort— Kesignation of Colonel French and Appointment of Colonel McLeod— His Visit to Fort Saskatchewan— Fort Tail Creek— On the Red Deer River— Second Journey to the Plains- Importunate Guests— Meeting an Interpreter from Fort McLeod —A Proof of Half -Breed Bravery— Lost !— My Arrival at Pigeon Lake 100

Chapter XII

Pigeon Lake and its Surroundings — Retracing our Steps — Short of Rations — How to Prepare Dry Meat — On the Right Road again — Battle River— Our Arrival at Tail Creek Fort— A Word about That Place— Constable P. a wonderful Mathematician — My Attempt to Assist him 115

Chapter XIII

Constable P. is Succeeded by Constable S., of Fort Saskatchewan- Winter Dwelling of Buffalo Hunters— State of the Region between the Rivers Bow and Red Deer during the Winter — Sad fate of a Courageous Missionary — Inquest of a Supposed Murder perpetrated at Tail Creek — My Return to Fort Saskatchewan. 124

Chapter XIV

Good Results from Stationing A Division at Fort Saskatchewan— The Trial and Execution of a Cannibal — My Resolve to Return to France — A Theatrical Performance and Ball at Edmonton in 1880 — St. Albert— Lost ! — A Night on the Plains — Found a Friend — Frozen Feet 129

Chapter XV

Modes of Travelling to Reach Winnipeg— The Steamboat Lily My Departure From Fort Saskatchewan — Importunate Visitors — The Fate of the Half-breed Race— Fort Pitt— The Half-breed Homeviii

Contents.

Page.

The Sandbanks- Battleford— Carleton— Our Arrival at Prince Albert— A New Mode of Travelling Adopted— Prince Albert Settlement . . 140

Chapter XVI

Departure from Prince Albert — Cole .Rapids — Fort a la Come — A Lesson on Geography— Loss of a Part of Our Provisions — Bear Hunting— Birch Islands — Mosquito Point — Cumberland — Trunks of Trees Encumbering the Banks of the River — Our Arrival at Pas Mission 151

Chapter XVII

Future of this Colony — A Second Lesson on Geography completing the First — A Bad Adviser — Gone Astray — Lost ! — One Pastime as Good as Another— On the Bight Road Again — Cedar Lake — Our Arrival at Rabbit Point 166

Chapter XVIII

Departure from Rabbit Point — Bad Advice and Lost Again for Two Days— Demi-Charge Rapid— Pigmy; and Giant— Our Arrival at Grand Rapids — A Word on that Colony — Some Advice for the Canadian Government— Reaching the Far North- West from Winnipeg, via the Lakes Manitoba, Winnipeg oosis, and Cedar 182

Chapter XIX

Departure from Grand Rapids— Icelandic Settlement on Lake Winnipeg—Selkirk—Our Arrival at Winnipeg— Rapid Progress of that Place since 1870— En route for Ontario — Ideas of Americans about Canada — Duluth — Good Pastime on the Lakes — Visiting my Friends Once More— My Arrival at Quebec and on board of the Sarmatian, en route for Liverpool 197

SIX YEAES

IN THE

CANADIAN NORTH-WEST.

General State of Affairs in the North- West Territories previous to the year 1874— Organization of the North-West Mounted Police Force— My Enlistment in that Corps — The Apostle of Temperance— Military Life during our Stay at the New Fort of Toronto.

UITE recently on the vast plains watered by the

Vc^ Missouri and the Saskatchewan rivers, numerous herds of buffaloes roamed, whose hides were eagerly sought for by fur-traders. Some of these fur- traders, taking advantage of the craving appetite for strong drinks which characterises the Indian race, made a practice of exchanging liquor for furs, and thus obtained them at a price very much less than their market value. The result of such dishonest transactions was often disastrous : for the Indians, once under the influence of alcohol, are transformed into wild beasts, and having obtained a quantity of it, they would keep themselves under its in*

CHAPTER I. Six Years in the Canadian North- West

fluence as long as the supply lasted. While in this state they would fall unexpectedly upon the fur-traders and colonists whom they massacred without mercy ; and, not contented with this inhuman slaughter of the whites, they were continually at war among themselves. Such was the state of affairs in the North- West Territories at the time of their annexation to the Dominion of Canada.

To put an end to this, and, at the same time, to prevent the total destruction of the buffaloes, which were hunted almost solety for their hides, the Dominion Parliament passed laws prohibiting the manufacture and importation of alcoholic liquors into the above country. But this did not stay the odious traffic, nor did it prevent the massacres (which, for the most part, were perpetrated in the neighbourhood of the Rocky Mountains and remained unpunished). Therefore, in the year 1873, the Government, under the leadership of Sir John A. Macdonald, resolved to organize a Mounted Police Force, to send to the North- West, whose presence there, it was thought, would have a salutary effect upon both the fur-traders and the Indians. This corps, composed exclusively of volunteers, numbered 300 horsemen, called constables and sub-constables, and was divided into six divisions, each commanded by an Inspector, assisted by two sub -Inspectors. At the head of the whole force was placed a Commissioner and an Assistant-Commissioner. With this handful of men, the Government expected to restore order in the North- West

Six Years in the Canadian North- West.

Territories. We will see later on, to what extent this force fulfilled the expectations of the Government.

In April, 1874, I was in Montreal, and, one morning opening the Witness, my attention was directed to an advertisement, the substance of which ran as follows :

"The Dominion Government requires 150 volunteers for the North- West Mounted Police. The knowledge of English or French is obligatory. Moreover, the candidate must have good antecedents, and be a good horseman. For further particulars, apply to Colonel Bacon.

"A. Feench,

"Commissioner/3

s Not knowing what portion of the Dominion was called the North-West, nor the nature of the duties of the Mounted Police, I at once called on a friend, showed him the advertisement, and asked him what it meant. This gentleman, thoroughly versed in Canadian afFairs> ac* quainted me with the fact* that by the North-West was meant all that tract of country which is bounded on the west by the Kocky Mountains ; on the south, by the United States ; on the east, by the Provinces of Ontario and Quebec, and the Atlantic Ocean ; and on the north, by the Polar Seas. He dwelt largely on the natural richness of this vast territory, which the building of the Can* adian Pacific Kailway would place within the reach of millions of homeless people. He also said that, in September of the previous year, three divisions of the Norths- West Mounted Police had left for Stone Fort, Manitoba; and with the 150 volunteers advertised for here, three mor§

Six Years in the Canadian North- West.

divisions were to be organised at Toronto. He said further, that, in the following summer, this police force would make an expedition among the Indian tribes of the North- West, in order to stop, if possible, the liquor traffic that American traders were carrying on in our territories. My friend carefully pointed out the difficulties and dangers which this expedition would encounter, and said, in conclusion, that if everybody knew as much as he did about the North- West, the Government would not easily find 300 men who would thus run the risk of losing their scalps.

On my way back to my lodgings, I began to ponder on the last words of my friend, the word "scalp" rousing in my mind scenes that I had quite forgotten. In my younger days, the works of Fenimore Cooper, and other Hovel writers had impressed me with a desire to visit those countries, whose inhabitants could perform such wonderful feats, and I rejoiced that now it was in my power to satisfy my curiosity ; all I had to do was to enlist in the North- West Mounted Police Force. So I at once called on Colonel Bacon who, after perusing my certificates of age, character, education and nationality, wrote me down as a candidate. He told me to present myself at the military barracks, on the 14th instant, when Colonel French would be present for the purpose of test* ing and enlisting men, and he had no doubt I would be accepted.

Accordingly, on the day appointed, I presented myself at the barracks, which I found surrounded by a large

Six Years in the Canadian Norih-West. 13 crowd, most of them candidates for enlistment like myself. Everyone was provided with certificates from men of high standing, both in the government and in the church ; and being a foreigner, I expected to be rejected. I was, therefore, greatly surprised when, with a few more, I was selected to pass the doctor's final examination for enlistment. Passing this, no words can express the happiness I felt when told I was accepted, and to be at the Grand Trunk Railway station on the evening of the 16th inst., where we would take the train for Toronto.

On returning home, I began my preparations for departure, speculating the while on the novelties and excitement of my future life. I fancied I saw myself, with some of my comrades riding days and nights together, over the vast plains of the North- West, fighting the Indians and the whiskey traders. I saw settlements destroyed by the red man, the ladies carried away to worse than slavery ; husbands and fathers calling upon us to rescue their wives and daughters ; ourselves rushing immediately to horse, and over the plains pele mele, in hot pursuit ; and, after a long day's ride, coming upon the Indians at night, when a brief but fierce struggle would ensue and we would rescue the captives, and carry them back in triumph to their desolated homes.

With such exciting fancies floating through my mind, I again visited my friend and said : " Well, Mr. C, I start the day after to-morrow for Toronto." " For Toronto ? " said he. " Yes/' said I, " I have enlisted in the North- West Mounted Police force." "Ha, ha," said he, "tell that to those that don't know you. One don't give up an advantageous career like yours, to embrace an adventurous one." " You don't believe me," said I, " come to the railway station to-morrow night, and you will see."

Seeing that I was in earnest, he then tried to dissuade me from following up my projects ; stating, in eloquent and earnest language, the folly of giving up teaching for a life of adventure. I let him talk for an hour without interruption, and I am sure his reasons and arguments were good. But with my Quixotic ideas, and my young imagination of twenty years, I could only see fights, sieges, and victories.

As arranged by the Commissioner, on the evening of the 16th, after bidding good-bye to my friends, I went to the G. T. Railway station where I found some of the new members of the North- West Mounted Police had preceded me. The time for starting having arrived, we were soon on the way to Toronto.

In the car, sitting opposite me, was a traveller, apparently about thirty*years of age, whose dress would indicate the clergyman : long black coat, waistcoat buttoned to the chin, straight collar, and broad brimmed hat ; and yet, his piercing eye, his moustache d Vimperiale, and his martial appearance, told me that I was facing a soldier.

Feeling somewhat lonely, and in order to make the time pass quickly, I entered into conversation with my neighbour by asking him in a true Yankee style : " Where are you going sir ? " " To Toronto," said he, " to join the North-West Mounted Police, — a military corps, organised for the purpose of putting an end to the liquor traffic in that country. I am an apostle of temperance, sir, my whole life is consecrated to that cause."

If all the members of the force are like this one, thought I, the whiskey traders will do well to decamp before our arrival. For my part, being accustomed to, and fond of, good wine, I did not share the opinions of my fellow traveller, who went on discussing the injurious effects of alcohol, and condemning even our best French wines. This was more than a Frenchman likes to bear, and I was about to give him a piece of my mind, when the conductor called out " Prescott." My attention was immediately directed to three young men, who entered the car, each one bearing a small parcel. " I don't think there is anyone here for the M. Police," said one of them glancing all around. " Here is one," said the apostle of temperance, " and one that will count." So saying, he left me and joined the newcomers.

As he before had done with me, he spoke lengthily and in parsonical styfe of the duties which would devolve upon the volunteers. " Hold on, old fellow," said one after a while, taking out a bottle, " here is the kind of beverage that would be of service to us in the coming expedition. Have a swig, you must be dry after so%ong a speech." Thus addressed, the apostle was filled with astonishment and horror. " Is it possible," said he, " that you expect with vice to correct vice," and leaving them, he returned to his former seat, I could now see that not only total abstainers were being enlisted, but also those who were fond of their glass.

About day-light we reached the City of Toronto, and proceeded towards the New Fort where we were to be quartered, until the whole force was made up.

We had been preceded there by about thirty men, who were drilling on foot preparatory to horseback drill. As we drew near the fort, one of the constables came to us, showed us to a large room, and told us to make ourselves comfortable. I did not see how this could be done; for all I could see as furniture was a large table in the centre of the room. I did not, for a moment, expect that this would be our sleeping quarters, until we were called out to get from the store a straw mattress and two blankets each. This looked very much like military life, and yet, we saw at the door an order, reminding us that we were not soldiers, but civilians.

The next morning we joined the others at foot drill, and in a short time, made good progress, after which the riding drill began in the manege. I must say here, that most of us had overrated our proficiency in horsemanship ; for when we came to ride without stirrups, many laughable falls ensued : men having lost their balance would cling to their horses in every imaginable position, till the drill-instructor coming up, would give the horse a smart lash with the whip, which would make him rear and plunge, till, freeing himself from his rider, he would gallop away to the stable. Even the officers were most of them as bad as ourselves at riding, but managed by some means, unknown to us, to get out of the manege drill, and went only to the field drill, where stirrups were allowed to be used. The Commissioner himself was a thoroughly well drilled officer ; but most of the inspectors and sub-inspectors did not understand the simplest field manoeuvres ; and their inefficiency was made manifest before we left Toronto, by the three divisions being called out together, when the Commissioner gave the first, or general commands, which should have been followed by others from the officers ; but their efforts almost invariably proved failures, and produced indescribable confusion. Fortunately we had some of the sergeants from the regular army among us, who, on such occasions would come forward, put the officers in their proper places and restore us to order.

In the latter part of May, the organisation, training and equipment of the three divisions were complete ; and about the same time, the Commissioner received very serious tidings from the North-West. It was said that the whiskey-traders were building fortifications, and inducing the Indians to resist our approach. As energetic and resolute men could alone bring the projected expedition to a successful issue, Colonel French called a general parade, and, after making us acquainted with the above news, he reminded us of the fact, that we were but volunteers, and that, before going any farther, we should consider ^the dangers and hardships we must necessarily encounter. That on some occasions, we might be two or three days without food, and have to camp in the open prairie, having nothing but the canopy of heaven for covering. He ended by advising any of those who repented having enlisted to leave the ranks, and return to their homes.

Very few availed themselves of the opportunity; and this shows of what stamp of men the Mounted Police was composed. It is true they were not well trained, like regular soldiers, but certainly, courage and patriotism, qualities which every true soldier must possess, were npt wanting in them.

CHAPTER VIJ.

Our Departure from Toronto — Ideas of a Misanthrope about Civilization — The Northern Metropolis of the United States— St. Paul— The Red River Valley — Our First Camping Night on the Prairie— The Hunters of the Plains— Our arrival at Dufferin, opposite Emerson.

S~\ N the first day of June, we took the oath of office

V/ and the three following days were devoted in carrying to the Grand Trunk Station, our equipments, which were to be transported by rail as far as Fargo, Dacotah. On the fifth we had a holiday. Finally on the sixth, at 11 a.m., we started for the Railway Station with our horses. Our force was composed altogether of 217 men and 244 horses. Two trains were in readiness for our reception, and, placing the horses in the cars prepared for them, we went to the dining room of the station where a substantial dinner had been prepared for us. Thousands of people were surrounding the station. One would have thought that all the inhabitants of the city had made that their rendezvous.

Between the dinner and. the departure, a music band played a good selection of patriotic airs, reminding us of the services that the country expected from us. On every side, we were surrounded by an anxious crowd, each one wishing to shake hands with us once more. The hour of separation came at last. The train, which was to take one division and a half, was waiting. Final words were uttered : " you will write, will you not" said a mother in tears to her son. " My son," said an old man, " remember your life belongs to the country. I would rather hear of your death than of your dishonour." " Don't forget your dearest Angelica when you are among the Indians," added a young girl to her betrothed. And amid a very Babel of such expressions we entered our train.

Most of the men were in good spirits, but doubtlessly they would have been less so, if they had followed the maxims of the " Apostle of Temperance" above mentioned. Among us were some very good singers, and, when the trains were starting, while the band played the Canadian National Anthem : " Vive la Canadienne," they sang : " The girl I left behind me."

Toronto was soon far behind us ; but the tokens of sympathy were to follow us, not only through Ontario, but also through the United States. At the windows of the houses near the track, many were seen (specially ladies, bless their sympathizing hearts) waving their handkerchiefs as long as we remained in view. I understood then that beautiful device : " Fight for God, the King and your Lady" which ever fills the breast of every true Knight. By those signs, the ladies not only bade us farewell, but reminded us to protect and love, in any country where we went, the greatest earthly consolation of man, the fair sex.

The next morning, at day-break the second train in

Six Years in the Canadian North- West.

which I was (the first being several miles before us,) entered Sarnia (Pt. Edward). This town occupies an advantageous site on Lake Huron, at the head of St. Clair River, and from which port several lines of steamers plough the waters, not only of Lake Huron, but of the whole chain of lakes with which it is connected. Furthermore Sarnia is connected with the different commercial centres of Ontario and Quebec by two lines of railway, the Great Western and the Grand Trunk.

After taking a hearty meal at the station, we set out again on our journey, and crossing the St. Clair river by ferry, we entered the State of Michigan. The progress made by this state, during the last thirty years, is certainly wonderful. Passing rapidly over the country, and catching hurried views of the rich fields of wheat, the neat and comfortable cottages, surrounded by large orchards of various kinds of fruit, my mind went back to the time when that region was covered with dense forests, and "the possession of which by the white man was obtained after many bloody battles with the Indians, the original and lawful owners. The wigwams are no more to be seen, and the plough, which carries civilisation with it, has taken the ; place of the tomahawk and the scalping knife of the savage.

During the previous night, the excitement was so great that we were unable to take any rest ; so sleep came to claim her rights, and before long, our car looked like a dormitory. All were sleeping but myself and one other, a sub-constable of melancholy and taciturn appearance, who seemed disposed to remain awake* He was from Switzerland, speaking French ; and wishing to know the reasons that induced such a man to enlist in the Mounted Police corps, I went over to him and addressed him in the following and familiar style ; " cofnrade, what do you think of this beautiful country ? I never saw anything like it." " Do you really think so ? " said he, staring at me in surprise. " Why," said I, " look at those beautiful fields, those elegant houses surrounded by pretty gardens and parterres, really it is an Eden ! " " What you wonder at and admire, I detest," said he, " I would not for worlds live in this country that you seem to think without an equal ; for under the appearance of rich fields and beautiful houses, are hidden vices which undermine eve^ society. The country that I would cherish, is one that would show no vestige of civilisation." " Such a land," I replied, " you will find in the North-West Territories, and yet, if we succeed in restoring peace and order in that part of the world, civilisation will soon reach it." " I hope not," said he, " but to avoid it reaching me, I intend, as soon as we reach Manitoba, to ask for my discharge, when I will marry an Indian woman, and settle down in a region entirely savage." " I see you are not only a countryman of the Swiss philosopher, Jean Jacques Rousseau," said I, " but also his disciple. As he did, you think the uncivilised man is, in many respects, superior to the civilised, and admitting for argument's sake that it is so, don't you see that in a few years those wild North- West Territories will be settled by colonists ? " " If that should happen," said he, "I will shift my quarters farther, even to the midst of the Rocky Mountains, if necessary ; and now, that you know my projects, keep them to yourself/'

I went back to my former seat, wondering why a man imbued with such ideas had been selected for the Mounted Police Corps. I never thought that in our time there were men who shared the paradoxical opinions of the Swiss philosopher. For my part, I never could see in what respect the uncivilised man was superior to the civilised.

Like the rest of my companions, I soon went to sleep, ? and never awoke until I heard some of the train-men shouting " Chicago ! " It was ten o'clock at night. First of all, we took out the horses, placed them in an enclosure near the station, and watered and fed them. This done, the roll was called, and a certain number of us selected, in alphabetical order, for night watch, and those who were not on duty went into the city, to enjoy once more the comforts of civilisation.

Chicago, which is situated on the southern shore of Lake Michigan, is the most important city in the northern States. Some fifty years ago it was but a hamlet, composed of a few log-houses ; but, at the. present time, it has a population of about 630,000 souls. The industry and commerce of this city are very extensive* Its docks receive a great quantity of grain from Dacotah and Minnesota for exportation to European markets. Its slaughter-houses are very numerous, from which are shipped immense quantities of beef and pork ; and, in regard to buildings, very few cities in the United States rank as high as Chicago.