Scrambles amongst the Alps in the years 1860-'69

Front matter

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Preface

In the year i860, shortly before leaving England for a long Continental tour, a certain eminent London publisher requested me to make for him some sketches of the great Alpine peaks. At this time I had only a literary acquaintance with mountaineering, and had even not seen — much less set foot upon — a riiountain. Amongst the peaks which were upon my list was Mont Pelvoux, in Dauphine. The sketches that were required of it were to celebrate the triumph of some Englishmen who intended to make its ascent. They came — they saw — but they did not conquer. By a mere chance I fell in with a very agreeable Frenchman who accompanied this party, and was pressed by him to return to the assault. In 1861 we did so, with my friend Macdonald, and we conquered. This was the origin of my scrambles amongst the Alps.

The ascent of Mont Pelvoux (including the disagreeables) was a very delightful scramble. The mountain air did not act as an emetic ; the sky did not look black instead of blue ; nor did I feel tempted to throw myself over precipices. I hastened to enlarge my experience, and went to the Matterhorn. I was urged toward Mont Pelvoux by those mysterious impulses which cause men to peer into the unknown. Not only was this mountain reputed to be the highest in France, and on that account was worthy of attention, but it was the dominating point of a most picturesque district of the highest interest, which, to this day, remains almost unexplored. The Matterhorn attracted me simply by its grandeur. It was considered to be the most thoroughly inaccessible of all mountains, even by those who ought to have known better. Stimulated to make fresh exertions by one repulse after another, I returned, year after year, as I had opportunity, more and more determined to find a way up it, or to prove it to be really inaccessible.

A considerable portion of this volume is occupied by the history of these attacks on the Matterhorn, and the other excursions that are described have all some connection, more or less remote, with that mountain or with Mont Pelvoux. All are new excursions (that is, excursions made for the first time), unless the contrary is pointed out. Some have been passed over very briefly, and entire ascents or descents have been disposed of in a single line. If they had been worked out at full length, three volumes instead of one would have been required. Generally speaking, the salient points alone have been dwelt upon, and the rest has been left to the imagination. This treatment has saved the reader from much useless repetition.

4 PREFACE,

In endeavoring to make the book of some use to those who may wish to go mountain-scrambling, whether in the Alps or elsewhere, undue prominence, perhaps, has been given to our mistakes and failures ; and it will doubtless be pointed out that our practice must have been bad if the principles which are laid down are sound, or that the principles must be unsound if the practice was good. It is maintained in an early chapter that the positive, or unavoidable, dangers of mountaineering are very small, yet from subsequent pages it can be shown that very considerable risks were run. The reason is obvious — we were not immaculate. Our blunders are not held up to be admired or to be imitated, but to be avoided.

These scrambles amongst the Alps were holiday excursions, and as such they should be judged. They are spoken of as sport, and nothing more. The pleasure that they gave me cannot^ I fear, be transferred to others. The ablest pens have failed, and must always fail, to give a true idea of the grandeur of the Alps. The most minute descriptions of the greatest writers do nothing more than convey impressions that are entirely erroneous — the reader conjures up visions, it may be magnificent ones, but they are infinitely inferior to the reality. I have dealt sparingly in descriptions, and have employed illustrations freely, in the hope that the pencil may perhaps succeed where the pen must inevitably have failed.

The preparation of the illustrations has occupied a large part of my time during the last six years. With the exception of the views upon pp. i8, 19 and 24, the whole of the illustrations have been engraved expressly for the book, and, unless it is otherwise specified, all are from my own sketches. About fifty have been drawn on the wood by Mr. James Mahoney, and I am much indebted to that artist for the care and fidelity with which he has followed my slight memoranda, and for the spirit that he has put into his admirable designs. Most of his drawings will be identified by his monogram. Twenty of the remainder are the work of Mr. Cyrus Johnston, and out of these I would draw especial attention to the view of the Matterhorn facing p. 36, the striated rock upon p. 63, and the bits from the Mer de Glace upon pp. 138, 139. The illustrations have been introduced as illustrations, and very rarely for ornamental purposes. We have subordinated everything in thera to accuracy, and it is only fair to the artists who have honored me by their assistance to say that many of their designs would have ranked higher as works of art if they had been subjected to fewer restrictions.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

The Drawings were made on the Wood by

H. J. Boot, C. Johnson, J. Mahonby, J. W. North, P. Skblton, W. G. Smith, and C. J. Staniland ;

and were Engraved by J. W. and Edward Whymper.

* From Photographs. ** Designs,

FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGB

** I. The Club-room of Zermatt in 1864 Frontispiece.

2, Mont Pelvoux and the ALfePROiDE, from near Mont Dauphin 16

* 3. The Mont Cenis Road and the Fell Railway, on the Italian side.. 30

4. The Matterhorn, from near the Summit of the ThAodule Pass 36

5. "In attempting to pass the corner I slipped and fell" 54

** 6. A Cannonade on the Matterhorn (1862) 57

7. "The Chimney" 64

8. The Crags <5f the Matterhorn during the Storm, Midnight, Aug. 10, 1863 71

** 9. Descending Western Ar£te of the Pointe des ficRiNs 89

** 10. " We saw a toe — it seemed to belong to Moore ; we saw Reynaud a

FLYING body" 95

** II. The Summit of the Moming Pass in 1864 108

12. The Bergschrund on the Dent Blanche in 1865 117

13. The Matterhorn from the Riffelberg 121

* 14. The Grandes Jorasses from the Val Ferret 133

15. The Summit of the Col Dolent 134

16. Fog-Bow, seen from the Matterhorn on July 14, 1865 ....: 157

IN THE TEXT.

1. Beachy Head 9

2. The Devil of Notre Dame 10

** 4. A CuRfe IN Difficulties 13

5. At THE St. Bernard 13

** 6. Which is the Brute? 13

** 7. "Garibaldi!" 15

* 8. Brian<;on 16

9. Mont Pelvoux from above La Bessie 18

ID. In the Val d'Alefred 19

11. The Grand Pelvoux de Val Louise 20

12. Buttresses of Mont Pelvoux 21

* 13. Portrait of R. J. S. Macdonald 23

14. Outline to show Route up Mont Pelvoux 24

15. The Blanket Bag 1 27

16. Natural Pillar near Molines 29

** 17. Crossing Mont Cenis 30

** 18. The Little Postilion 31

19. The Centre Rail on a Curve 32

20. Section of the Fell Railway 32

* 21. The Covered Ways of the Fell Railway 33

22. The Centre-Rail Brake 34

23. Outlines of the Matterhorn from the North-east 37

I Digitized by VjOOQIC

6 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS,

PAGB

* 24. Portrait of J. J. Bennen 38

♦25. Portrait OF Jean-Antoine Carrel 40

26. The Col du Lion; looking toward the TfeTE du Lion 41

** 27. At Breuil (Giomein) 44

28. Outlines of the Matterhorn from the Th^odule Pass 46

29. Diagram to show manner of fastening Tent-poles 47

30. Alpine Tent 47

31. Climbing Claw 51

32. Rope and Ring 51

33. The Matterhorn from Breuil 58

** 34. "But what is this?" 59

35. An Arch of the Aqueduct in the Val Tournanche 61

* 36. Water-worn Rocks in the Gorge below the Corner Glacier 62

37, Striations Produced by Glacier-action 63

** 38. "Carrel lowered me down" * 67

* 39. Portrait of Monsieur Favre ' 73

* 40. Crossing the Channel 74

** 41. A Night with Croz 75

* 42. Portrait of Michel-Auguste Croz 76

43. The Aiguilles d'Arve from above the Chalets of Rieu Blanc 78

* 44, Portrait of Melchior Anderegg 81

45. Map of the Br^che de la Meije, etc 82

* 46. The Vallon des Etan<;ons 83

47. Map of the Central Dauphin^ Alps 84

48. The Pointe des fecRiNs from the Col du Galibier 86

49. Outline to show Route up Pointe des Ecrins 86

50. Fragment from the Summit of the Pointe des fecRiNs 88

** 51. A Snow Couloir 93

** 52. Portraits of Mr. Reilly on a wet Day 99

53. Our Camp on Mont Sue 100

54. Ice-Avalanche on the Moming Pass 108

55. Fac-simile of a Letter from Croz 112

56. Part of the Southern Ridge of the Grand Cornier 113

57. Part of the Northern Ridge of the Grand Cornier 114

* 58. Portrait of Leslie Stephen 116

* 59. Portrait of T. S. Kennedy 119

60. Diagrams to show Dip of Strata on the Matterhorn 122-3

* 61. My Tent-bearer — The Hunchback 125

* 62. The Bouquetin 127

63. A Cretin of Aosta 129

64. My Ice-axe 135

65. Kennedy Ice-axe 136

66. Stephen Ice-axe 136

67. Crampon 136

* 68. Portrait of Christian Almer 137

* 69. On the Mer de Glace ♦ , 138

* 70. Ice-Pinnacles on the Mer de Glace : 139

* 71. Western Side of the Col de Tal^fre 142

** 72. Glissading 143

** 73. The Wrong Way to use a Rope on Glacier 146

** 74. The Right Way to use a Rope on Glacier 146

75. "Croz! Croz! Come here" 153

76. The Actual Summit of the Matterhorn in 1865 154

77. The Summit of the Matterhorn 155

78. Rope broken on the Matterhorn 157

* 79. Portrait of Monsieur Seiler 158

80. Manilla Rope broken on the Matterhorn 159

81. The "Second" Rope broken on the Matterhorn 160

83. Natural Pinnacles in the Valley of the Durance 163

Contents

CHAP. PAGE

I. — Introductory 9

II. — The Ascent of Mont Pelvoux 16

Chapter I

ON the 23d of July, i860, I started for my first tour in the Alps. As we steamed out into the Channel, Beachy Head came into view, and recalled a scramble of many years ago. With the impudence of ignorance, my brother and I, schoolboys both, had tried to scale that great chalk cliff. Not the head itself— where sea-birds circle, and where the flints are ranged so orderly in parallel lines — ^but at a place more to the east, where the pinnacle called the Devil's Chimney had fallen down. Since that time we have been often in dangers of different kinds, but never have we more nearly broken our necks than upon that occasion.

In Paris I made two ascents. The first to the seventh floor of a house in the Quartier Latin — to an artist friend, who was engaged, at the moment of my lO

SCRAMBLES AMONGST THE ALPS IN 1860-^69.

entry, in combat with a little Jew. He hurled him with great good-will and with considerable force into some of his crockery, and then recommended me to go up the towers of Notre Dame. Half an hour later I stood on the parapet of the great west front, by the side of the leering fiend which for centuries has looked down upon the great city. It looked over the Hotel Dieu to a small and commonplace building, around which there was always a moving crowd. To that building I descended. It was filled with chattering women and eager children, who were struggling to get a good sight of three corpses which were exposed to view. It was the Morgue. I quitted the place disgusted, and overheard two women discussing the spectacle. One of them concluded with, " But that it is droll ;" the other answered approvingly, "But that it is droll ;** and the Devil of Notre Dame, looking down upon them, seemed to say, "Yes, your climax, the cancan — your end, not uncommonly, that building : it is droll, but that it is droll."

I passed on to Switzerland ; saw the sunlight lingering on the giants of the Oberland ; heard the echoes from the cow horns in the Lauterbrunnen valley and the avalanches rattling off the Jungfrau ; and then crossed the Gemmi into the Valais, resting for a time by the beautiful Oeschinen See, and getting a forcible illustration of glacier-motion in a neighboring valley — the Gasteren Thai. The upper end of this valley is crowned by the Tschingel glacier, which, as it descends, passes over an abrupt cliff that is in the centre of its course. On each side the continuity of the glacier is maintained, but in the centre it is cleft in twain by the cliff. Lowe' down it is consolidated again. I scrambled on to this lower portion, advanced toward the cliff, and then stopped to admire the contrast of the brilliant pinnacles of ice with the blue sky. Without a warning, a huge slice of the glacier broke away and fell over the cliff on to the lower portion with a thundering crash. Fragments rolled beyond me, although, fortunately, not in my direction. I fled, and did not stop until off the glacier, but before it was quitted learned another* lesson in glacial matters : the terminal moraine, which seemed to be a solid mound, broke away underneath me, and showed that it was only a superficial covering resting on a slope of glassy ice.

On the steep path over the Gemmi there were opportunities for observing the manners and customs of the Swiss mule. It is not perhaps in revenge for generations of ill-treatment that the mule grinds one's legs against fences and stone walls, and pretends to stumble in awkward places, particularly

II when coming round corners and on the brinks of precipices ; but their evil habit of walking on the outside edges of paths (even in the most unguarded positions) is one that is distinctly the result of association with man. The transport of wood from the mountains into the valleys occupies most of the mules during a considerable portion of the year : the fagots into which the wood is- made up project some distance on each side, and it is said that they walk intuitively to the outside of paths having rocks on the other side to avoid the collisions which would otherwise occur. When they carry tourists they behave in a similar manner; and no doubt when the good time for mules arrives, and they no longer carry burdens, they will still continue, by natural selection, to do the same. This habit frequently gives rise to scenes : two mules meet — each wishes to pass on the outside, and neither will give way. It requires considerable persuasion, through the medium of the tail, before such difficulties are arranged.

I visited the baths of Leuk, and saw the queer assemblage of men, women and children, attired in bathing-gowns, chatting, drinking and playing at chess in the water. The company did not seem to be perfectly sure whether it was decorous in such a situation and in such attire for elderly men to chase young females from one corner to another, but it was unanimous in howling at the advent of a stranger who remained covered, and literally yelled when I departed without exhibiting my sketch.

I trudged up the Rhone valley, and turned aside at Visp to go up the Visp Thai, where one would expect to see greater traces of glacial action, if a glacier formerly filled it, as one is said to have done.

I was bound for the valley of Saas, and my work took me high up the Alps on either side, far beyond the limit of trees and the tracks of tourists. The view from the slopes of the Wiessmies, on the eastern side of the valley, five or six thousand feet above the village of Saas, is perhaps the finest of its kind in the Alps. The full height of the three -peaked Mischabel (the highest mountain in Switzerland) is seen at one glance — eleven thousand feet of dense forests, green alps, pinnacles of rock and glittering glaciers. The peaks seemed to me then to be hopelessly inaccessible from this direction.

I descended the valley to the village of Stalden, and then went up the Visp Thai to Zermatt, and stopped there several days. Numerous traces of the formidable earthquake-shocks of five years before still remained, particularly at St. Nicholas, where the inhabitants had been terrified beyond measure at the destruction of their churches and houses. At this place, as well as at Visp, a large part of the population was obliged to live under canvas for several months. It is remarkable that there was hardly a life lost on this occasion, although there were about fifty shocks, some of which were very severe.

At Zermatt I wandered in many directions, but the weather was bad and my work was much retarded. One day, after spending a long time in attempts to sketch near the Hornli, and in futile endeavors to seize the forms of the peaks as they for a few seconds peered out from above the dense banks of woolly clouds, I determined not to return to Zermatt by the usual path, but to cross the Corner glacier to the Riffel hotel. After a rapid scramble over the polished rocks and snow-beds which skirt the base of the Theodule glacier, and wading through some of the streams which flow from it, at that time much swollen by the late rains, the first difficulty was arrived at, in the shape of a precipice about three hundred feet high. It seemed that there would be no difficulty in crossing the glacier if the cliff could be descended, but higher up and lower down the ice appeared, to my inexperienced eyes, to be impassable for a single person. The general contour of the cliff was nearly perpendicular, but it was a good deal broken up, and there was little difficulty in descending by zigzagging from one mass to another. At length there was a long slab, nearly smooth, fixed at an angle of about forty degrees between two wall-sided pieces of rock : nothing, except the glacier, could be seen below. It was a very awkward place, but being doubtful if return were possible, as I had been dropping from one ledge to another, I passed at length by lying across the slab, putting the shoulder stiffly against one side and the feet against the other, and gradually wriggling down, by first moving the legs and then the back. When the bottom of the slab was gained a friendly crack was seen, into which the point of the baton could be stuck, and I dropped down to the next piece. It took a long time coming down that little bit of cliff, and for a few seconds it was satisfactory to see the ice close at hand. In another moment a second difficulty presented itself. The glacier swept round an angle of the cliff, and as the ice was not of the nature of treacle or thin putty, it kept away from the little bay on the edge of which I stood. We* were not widely separated, but the edge of the ice was higher than the opposite edge of rock ; and worse, the rock was covered with loose earth and stones which had fallen from above. All along the side of the cliff, as far as could be seen in both directions, the ice did not touch it, but there was this marginal crevasse, seven feet wide and of unknown depth.

All this was seen at a glance, and almost at once I concluded that I could not jump the crevasse, and began to try along the clifTlower down, but without success, for the ice rose higher and higher, until at last farther progress was stopped by the cliffs becoming perfectly smooth. With an axe it would have been possible to cut up the side of the ice — without one, I saw there was no alternative but to return and face the jump.

It was getting toward evening, and the solemn stillness of the High Alps was broken only by the sound of rushing water or of falling rocks. If the jump should be successful, well : if not, I fell into that horrible chasm, to be frozen in, or drowned in that gurgling, rushing water. Everything depended on that jump. Again I asked myself,

"Can it be done?'* It must be. So, finding my stick was useless, I threw it and the sketch-book to the ice, and first retreating as far as possible, ran forward with all my might, took the leap, barely reached the other side, and fell awkwardly on my knees. Almost at the same moment a shower of stones fell on the spot from which I had jumped.

The glacier was crossed without further trouble, but the RifTel, which was then a very small building, was crammed, with tourists, and could not take me in. As the way down was unknown to me, some of the people obligingly suggested getting a man at the chalets, otherwise the path would be certainly lost in the forest. On arriving at the chalets no man could be found, and the lights of Zermatt, shining through the trees, seemed to say, " Never mind a guide, but come along down : we'll show you the way ;" so off I went through the forest, going straight toward them. The path was lost in a moment, and was never recovered : I was tripped up by pine roots, I tumbled over rhododendron bushes, I fell over rocks. The night was pitch-dark, and after a time the lights of Zermatt became obscure or went out altogether. By a series of slides or falls, or evolutions more or less disagreeable, the descent through the forest was at length accomplished, but torrents of a formidable character had still to be passed before one could arrive at Zermatt. I felt my way about for hours, almost hopelessly, by an exhaustive process at last discovering a bridge, and about midnight, covered with dirt and scratches, re-entered the inn which I had quitted in the morning.

Others besides tourists got into difficulties. A day or two afterward, when on the way to my old station near the Hbrnli, I met a stout cur6 who had essayed to cross the Theodule pass. His strength or his wind had failed, and he was being carried down, a helpless bundle and a ridiculous spectacle, on the back of a lanky guide, while the peasants stood by with folded hands, their reverence for the Church almost overcome by their sense of the ludicrous.

I descended the valley, diverging from the path at Ran da to mount the slopes of the Dom (the highest of the Mischabelhorner), in order to see the Weisshorn face to face. The latter mountain is the noblest in Switzerland, and from this direction it looks especially magnificent. On its north there is a large snowy plateau that feeds the glacier of which a portion is seen from Randa, and which on more than one occasion has destroyed that village. From the direction of the Dom — that is, immediately opposite — this Bies glacier seems to descend nearly vertically : it does not do so, although it is very steep. Its size is much less than formerly, and the lower portion, now divided into three tails, clings in a strange, weird-like manner \y

to the cHffs, to which it seems scarcely possible that it can remain attached.

Unwillingly I parted from the sight of this glorious mountain, and went down to Visp. A party of English tourists had passed up the valley a short time before with a mule. The party numbered nine— eight women and a governess. The mule carried their luggage, and was ridden by each in turn. The peasants — themselves not unaccustomed to overload their beasts — were struck with astonishment at the unwonted sight, and made comments, more free than welcome to English ears, on the nonchalance with which young miss sat, calm and collected, on the miserable beast, while it was struggling under her weight combined with that of the luggage. The story was often repeated ; and it tends to sustain some of the hard things which have been said of late about young ladies from the ages of twelve or fourteen to eighteen.

Arriving once more in the Rhone valley, I proceeded to Viesch, and from thence ascended the ^^Eggischhorn, on which unpleasant eminence I lost my way in a fog, and my temper shortly afterward.

Then, after crossing the Grimsel in a severe thunderstorm, I passed on to Brienz, I nterlachen and Berne, and thence to Fribourg and Morat, Neuchatel, Martigny and the St. Bernard. The massive walls of the convent were ^ welcome sight as I waded through the snow-beds near the summit of the pass, and pleasant also was the courteous salutation of the brother who bade me enter. He wondered at the weight of my knapsack, and I at the hardness of their bread. The saying that the monks make the toast in the winter that they give to tourists in the following season is not founded on truth : the winter is their most busy time of the year. But it is true they have exercised so much hospitality that at times they have not possessed the means to furnish the fuel for heating their chapel in the winter.

Instead of descending to Aosta, I turned aside into the Val Pelline, in order to obtain views of the Dent d'Erin. The night had come on before Biona was gained, and I had to knock long and loud upon the door of the curb's house before it was opened. An old woman with querulous voice and with a large goitre answered the summons, and demanded rather sharply what was wanted, but became pacific, almost good-natured, when a five-franc piece was held in her face and she heard that lodging and supper were requested in exchange.

My directions asserted that a passage existed from Prerayen, at the head of this valley, to Breuil, in the Val Tournanche, and the old woman, now convinced of my respectability, busied herself to find a guide. Presently she introduced a native picturesquely attired in high - peaked hat, braided jacket, scarlet waistcoat and indigo pantaloons, who agreed to take me to the village of Val Tournanche. We set off early on the next morning, and got to the summit of the pass wfthout difficulty. It gave me my first experience of considerable slopes of hard, steep snow, and, like all beginners, I endeavored to prop myself up with my stick, and kept it outside, instead of holding it between myself and the slope, and leaning upon it, as should have been done. The man enlightened me, but he had, properly, a very small opinion, of his employer, and it is probably on that account that, a few minutes after we had passed the summit, he said he would not go any farther and would return to Biona. All argument was useless : he stood still, and to everything that was said answered nothing but that he would go back. Being rather nervous about descending some long snow-slopes which still intervened between us and the head of the valley, I offered more pay, and he went on a little way. Presently there were some cliffs, down which we had to scramble. He called to me to stop, then shouted that he would go back, and beckoned to me to come up. On the contrary, I waited for him to come down, but instead of doing so, in a second or two he turned round, clambered deliberately up the cliff and vanished. I supposed it was only a ruse to extort offers of more money, and waited for half an hour, but he did not appear again. This was rather embarrassing, for he carried off my knapsack. The choice of action lay between chasing him and going on to Breuil, risking the loss of my knapsack. I chose the latter course, and got to Breuil the same evening. The landlord of the inn, suspicious of a person entirely innocent of luggage, was doubtful if he could admit me, and eventually thrust me into a kind of loft, which was already occupied by guides and by hay. In later years we became good friends, and he did not hesitate to give credit and even to advance considerable sums.